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Owner of Yoshikawa traditional inn, Kyoto<br />
Ofuro bath, Gora Kadan ryokan, Hakone<br />
Evening meal at the Tsubakino ryokan, Yudanaka Onsen<br />
Outdoor roof bath, Tsubakino ryokan, Yudanaka Onsen<br />
The ryokan experience<br />
The welcome<br />
When you arrive at the ryokan, you’ll enter<br />
through the main door where you will be<br />
greeted with a bow by the attentive staff.<br />
You’ll notice a raised step at the entrance and<br />
a set of shoes neatly stacked by the door. It is<br />
customary to remove your shoes at this point<br />
and you will be provided with a pair of slippers<br />
to wear around the ryokan. Let your host<br />
show you what to do – they won’t be<br />
expecting you to be experts in ryokan etiquette.<br />
You will be escorted to your room and served<br />
a cup of green tea and a small snack by your<br />
kimono-clad hostess.<br />
Sleeping and bathing arrangements<br />
Fundamental to the ryokan is the elegant<br />
tatami-mat style of room where your futon bed<br />
is carefully laid out each night. The beauty of<br />
Japanese accommodation is that every inch of<br />
space is used wisely, and the futons will be kept<br />
out of the way to give you maximum space<br />
during the day. Your futons will be laid out at<br />
bedtime for you by your maid so do not<br />
attempt to roll them out yourself. Your maid<br />
will also clear away your futons for you in the<br />
morning. Extra pillows and blankets are available<br />
on request. You will notice a cotton yukata<br />
robe, over-coat and small toiletries bag next to<br />
the low table in your room or in the futon<br />
cupboard. These are provided for relaxing in<br />
and to take to the shared bathing facility known<br />
as the ofuro. Although most properties have<br />
en suite bathrooms, it is highly recommended<br />
to take a soak in the ofuro before bedtime, as<br />
the hot, thermal waters will soak away any<br />
aches and pains and help you sleep.<br />
Ryokan cuisine<br />
Dinner will most likely be included as part of<br />
the package. Meals in ryokan inns can be a little<br />
daunting but will (mostly) be palatable to<br />
western taste buds. Both breakfast and dinner<br />
will be at set times and, depending on the type<br />
of inn you are a guest at, are likely be served<br />
to you in your room, although sometimes a<br />
communal dining hall is used instead.<br />
Japanese breakfast consists of several small<br />
plates of food including miso soup, rice, grilled<br />
fish, pickles and dried seaweed. This sort of<br />
meal can be quite filling for those used to a bite<br />
of toast and quick coffee in the morning, but is<br />
very nutritious and satisfying.<br />
Dinner is a grander affair, typically consisting of<br />
up to seven or eight small courses. The meal<br />
starts with an assortment of appetisers, followed<br />
by sashimi (sliced raw fish), a cooked fish and/or<br />
meat dish (sometimes on a hot plate or<br />
bubbling nabe pot), tofu, pickles, rice and fruit.<br />
All the ingredients will have been chosen<br />
according to the season and you will receive<br />
a different variation on the meal each day of<br />
your stay. Often you won’t know what it is that<br />
you are eating as some things seem to be<br />
untranslatable, but rest assured that it will all be<br />
local and fresh. If you do not like something,<br />
then please don’t feel obliged to eat it; your<br />
hosts are used to foreign guests not being quite<br />
ready for some of the more unusual Japanese<br />
dishes. Special dietary requirements can be<br />
catered for in most cases.<br />
For more detailed information on Japanese food,<br />
see the feature on pages 20 and 21.<br />
Hostess at the Sumiyoshi ryokan, Takayama<br />
www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Ryokan 17