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Owner of Yoshikawa traditional inn, Kyoto
Ofuro bath, Gora Kadan ryokan, Hakone
Evening meal at the Tsubakino ryokan, Yudanaka Onsen
Outdoor roof bath, Tsubakino ryokan, Yudanaka Onsen
The ryokan experience
The welcome
When you arrive at the ryokan, you’ll enter
through the main door where you will be
greeted with a bow by the attentive staff.
You’ll notice a raised step at the entrance and
a set of shoes neatly stacked by the door. It is
customary to remove your shoes at this point
and you will be provided with a pair of slippers
to wear around the ryokan. Let your host
show you what to do – they won’t be
expecting you to be experts in ryokan etiquette.
You will be escorted to your room and served
a cup of green tea and a small snack by your
kimono-clad hostess.
Sleeping and bathing arrangements
Fundamental to the ryokan is the elegant
tatami-mat style of room where your futon bed
is carefully laid out each night. The beauty of
Japanese accommodation is that every inch of
space is used wisely, and the futons will be kept
out of the way to give you maximum space
during the day. Your futons will be laid out at
bedtime for you by your maid so do not
attempt to roll them out yourself. Your maid
will also clear away your futons for you in the
morning. Extra pillows and blankets are available
on request. You will notice a cotton yukata
robe, over-coat and small toiletries bag next to
the low table in your room or in the futon
cupboard. These are provided for relaxing in
and to take to the shared bathing facility known
as the ofuro. Although most properties have
en suite bathrooms, it is highly recommended
to take a soak in the ofuro before bedtime, as
the hot, thermal waters will soak away any
aches and pains and help you sleep.
Ryokan cuisine
Dinner will most likely be included as part of
the package. Meals in ryokan inns can be a little
daunting but will (mostly) be palatable to
western taste buds. Both breakfast and dinner
will be at set times and, depending on the type
of inn you are a guest at, are likely be served
to you in your room, although sometimes a
communal dining hall is used instead.
Japanese breakfast consists of several small
plates of food including miso soup, rice, grilled
fish, pickles and dried seaweed. This sort of
meal can be quite filling for those used to a bite
of toast and quick coffee in the morning, but is
very nutritious and satisfying.
Dinner is a grander affair, typically consisting of
up to seven or eight small courses. The meal
starts with an assortment of appetisers, followed
by sashimi (sliced raw fish), a cooked fish and/or
meat dish (sometimes on a hot plate or
bubbling nabe pot), tofu, pickles, rice and fruit.
All the ingredients will have been chosen
according to the season and you will receive
a different variation on the meal each day of
your stay. Often you won’t know what it is that
you are eating as some things seem to be
untranslatable, but rest assured that it will all be
local and fresh. If you do not like something,
then please don’t feel obliged to eat it; your
hosts are used to foreign guests not being quite
ready for some of the more unusual Japanese
dishes. Special dietary requirements can be
catered for in most cases.
For more detailed information on Japanese food,
see the feature on pages 20 and 21.
Hostess at the Sumiyoshi ryokan, Takayama
www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Ryokan 17