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Kodai-ji Temple gardens, Kyoto<br />

Kyoto<br />

For many centuries Kyoto was Japan’s capital and<br />

to this day it retains the nation’s greatest and<br />

most glorious concentration of cultural treasures.<br />

Kyoto is the Japan of the imagination: a city of<br />

grand palaces, ornate shrines and exquisite<br />

gardens, mercifully spared from the World War II<br />

bombing that razed other Japanese cities.<br />

However, Kyoto has not stood still, and this is<br />

undeniably a modern city where pockets of<br />

ancient Japan nonetheless linger and kimono-clad<br />

geisha still shuffle along narrow, lamp-lit streets.<br />

We have sought out some of Japan’s finest<br />

ryokan to allow you to experience their magical<br />

atmosphere and to ensure that your visit to<br />

Kyoto is one of the highlights of your time in<br />

Japan. Such is the wealth of attractions in Kyoto<br />

that we recommend at least a few days here<br />

to soak it all in.<br />

YOSHIKAWA RYOKAN, KYOTO<br />

The Yoshikawa Ryokan in Kyoto is one of a<br />

small group of much sought-after Japanese inns.<br />

The service is refined and the rooms, furnished<br />

in traditional style, look onto the exquisite<br />

garden with its pond filled with koi carp. You will<br />

sleep on a plump futon bed which is laid out and<br />

then removed in the morning by your maid.<br />

The Yoshikawa Ryokan is renowned for its<br />

famous tempura restaurant, which is certainly<br />

worth sampling.<br />

Geisha district walk<br />

The image of a geisha dressed in a fine silk<br />

kimono and teetering on wooden geta<br />

sandals is one of the most iconic, yet perhaps<br />

most misunderstood, symbols of Japan.<br />

Scores of books have been written about<br />

the elusive world of the geisha, many<br />

hundreds of photographers have tried to<br />

capture the beauty and grace of the women,<br />

and numerous films have been made<br />

depicting the stories of refined tea house<br />

entertainment, strict okiya training houses<br />

and, of course, the love, lust and romance<br />

that have long been associated with the<br />

geisha community. In their 1920s heyday,<br />

there were more than 80,000 geisha in Japan.<br />

Today, based mostly in Kyoto’s hanamachi<br />

districts (literally ‘flower towns’), there are<br />

fewer than 2,000. Geisha attend private<br />

functions, entertaining both male and female<br />

guests and can be see scuttling between<br />

appointments in the Gion district every<br />

evening. They can also be seen performing<br />

traditional dances at exclusive restaurants<br />

around the city or at luxury ryokan, although<br />

these private engagements come with a high<br />

price tag. A far more accessible way to see<br />

geisha is to take an evening walk around<br />

Geisha, Gion<br />

Gion with our guide Duncan and his wife<br />

Izumi who have been working with <strong>Audley</strong><br />

since 2005 to help shed some light on the<br />

exclusive and mysterious world of the geisha<br />

and other aspects of Japanese culture.<br />

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