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Onsen bathing<br />

Traditional onsen, Akita<br />

The Japanese are very proud of their longstanding<br />

tradition of hot spring onsen bathing,<br />

and rightly so, for a visit to the communal<br />

baths is truly a highlight of any trip. Onsen<br />

bathing is highly recommended both for its<br />

cultural importance and for the simple pleasure<br />

of soaking in a steaming hot bath, especially<br />

welcome after the rigours of travel. There are<br />

around 3,000 hot springs in the country, many<br />

in spectacular locations high up in mountains<br />

or perched on cliff sides. The art of bathing<br />

has become almost a religious act for the<br />

Japanese and a trip to an onsen can be the<br />

highlight of their year. Many ryokan inns or<br />

Japanese style hotels offer onsen packages<br />

including accommodation and seasonal cuisine.<br />

Light cotton yukata robes are provided in<br />

your room, along with wooden sandals to<br />

use inside the accommodation.<br />

Male bathers at Tsurunoyu Onsen<br />

Indoor bathing area<br />

The baths<br />

Japanese baths are deep enough to sit in<br />

comfortably up to the neck and are usually<br />

large enough for a number of people to<br />

bathe at once. The bath is filled to the top<br />

with very hot water which can either be<br />

normal tap water, or if you are at an onsen<br />

resort, mineral-rich onsen water. This type of<br />

water is incredibly good for you and can be<br />

easily recognised by its (sometimes strong)<br />

sulphurous smell, as well as by its cloudy<br />

appearance. There are also iron-fed waters –<br />

more rusty in colour – which have different<br />

healing properties. Onsen waters are said<br />

to cure many ailments, from arthritis to<br />

rheumatism, fatigue and nervous disorders.<br />

Men and women normally bathe separately,<br />

except in some remote country areas<br />

where traditional mixed bathing can still<br />

be experienced.<br />

Bathing etiquette<br />

There are a number of options for taking your<br />

first bath, be it at a traditional ryokan or at a<br />

specific onsen resort. Baths are customarily<br />

taken in the evening in Japanese society, but<br />

most inns will offer bathing throughout the<br />

day. There may be the opportunity to try an<br />

open air bath called a rotemburo, a particularly<br />

atmospheric initiation into the rituals of hot<br />

spring bathing – gazing at the stars or watching<br />

the snowflakes fall around you.<br />

Enter the bathroom naked (apart from a<br />

small towel which you can purchase on entry<br />

or which may have been provided in your<br />

hotel room and which can be used to<br />

preserve your modesty!). Swimming costumes<br />

are not allowed. You can take your own<br />

shampoo and soap into the room if you like,<br />

although generic brands will be provided for<br />

you. Shower attachments will be located<br />

around the bath and you should perch on<br />

the small stool provided to wash yourself<br />

thoroughly before entering the bath. Once<br />

you are sure you have rinsed off all soapsuds,<br />

enter the bath slowly – it will be hot! Do not<br />

take the small towel in with you. Relax and<br />

enjoy the bath.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Onsen 13

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