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Daibutsu Budda, Kamakura<br />

Nikko & Kamakura<br />

Only a couple of hours north of the capital, the<br />

small mountain town of Nikko feels like another<br />

world. Here, beneath the cool cedars, stands the<br />

magnificent Toshogu Shrine, mausoleum to the<br />

first and greatest Tokugawa Shogun on whom<br />

James Clavell based his famous novel. The superb<br />

carvings of the shrine, including the original ‘see<br />

no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil’ monkey<br />

carvings, are complemented by the beautiful<br />

mountain setting. After a thorough exploration of<br />

the shrine precinct we recommend heading up<br />

the hairpin road to enjoy the fine scenery of Lake<br />

Chuzenji and the Kegon waterfall. For Tokyo-ites<br />

the tranquil seaside town of Kamakura, which lies<br />

just an hour south of the city, is a favourite<br />

getaway from the hustle and bustle of daily life.<br />

Dotted with secluded shrines and temples –<br />

remnants of the town’s brief halcyon days as<br />

Lake Chuzenji, Nikko<br />

10<br />

Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji, Hakone<br />

capital of the nation – Kamakura is also home to<br />

the Daibutsu Buddha, which, carved out of<br />

bronze, stands over 13 metres tall in the grounds<br />

of Kotoku-in Temple.<br />

Mount Fuji & the Hakone<br />

National Park<br />

Head westwards from Tokyo and the land<br />

immediately becomes more mountainous, offering<br />

beautiful alpine views and some fantastic locations<br />

for hot spring bathing. The Hakone National Park,<br />

home to volcanic scenery, picturesque Lake Ashi<br />

and an excellent open-air sculpture park, is<br />

perhaps the finest of these. Towering above the<br />

whole is Japan’s foremost natural sight, the<br />

majestic Mount Fuji, whose iconic snow-capped<br />

peak has been portrayed in countless works of<br />

Japanese art and literature. In Japan, it is said that<br />

a wise man climbs Fuji-san once in his life, but<br />

only a fool climbs it twice. Sadly Fuji is notoriously<br />

shy and is often cloud-bound, leading us to<br />

believe that the wisest of all men stay at a safe<br />

distance relaxing in the Hakone National Park.<br />

With luck you will be able to catch a glimpse of<br />

Fuji’s snow-capped summit from the comfort of a<br />

hot spring bath. It is possible to climb Mount Fuji<br />

for a short window during July and August.<br />

HAKONE GINYU, HAKONE<br />

This Relais and Chateaux property is one of the<br />

finest examples of the traditional ryokan inn (see<br />

page 16) anywhere in Japan, with hints of Balinese<br />

design and an emphasis on subtle and discreet<br />

elegance. Luxurious relaxation is important here<br />

and you leave feeling pampered in every way.<br />

The ryokan is noted as a spa resort and all the<br />

baths are fed by the mineral-rich thermal water<br />

from the Mount Fuji region. Hakone Ginyu is one<br />

of our favourite hot spring inns in Japan.<br />

Hakone Ginyu

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