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J APAN 

TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER

Dear Traveller 

I briefly visited Japan a few years ago but 

even that short introduction was enough to 

captivate me and I vowed to return. 

I recently did go back to try out the skiing 

at Niseko and Furano on the northern 

island of Hokkaido, as well exploring 

Japan’s wonderful former capital, Kyoto, its 

incredible temples and gardens countering the 

neon and frenetic pace of Tokyo. I developed 

a taste for Japanese food, whether a quick 

bite from a simple stall or a banquet in an 

upmarket restaurant, the tastes, smells and 

presentation were often challenging but 

always impressive. I also stayed in a 

traditional inn or ryokan which I would 

recommend all visitors to try, if only for a 

night. All these experiences reaffirmed for 

me what a fascinating and beguiling nation 

this is and why so many travellers are 

charmed by it. 

Whether you are planning to visit Japan 

for the first time and want to see the classic 

sights, or are returning to delve deeper, our 

specialists know Japan inside and out and 

will ensure you experience the very best of 

the country. They can recommend the best 

place to try out hot spring bathing, the finest 

traditional inns or where to experience one 

of the famous festivals that take place 

throughout the year. 

I hope this brochure inspires your travels. 

Please feel free to call our Japan specialists 

at any time for advice or to start 

planning your trip. 

Craig Burkinshaw 

Managing Director

Introducing Audley 

After developing a real passion for travel in the early 1990s Craig Burkinshaw founded 

Audley, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. Craig wanted to make it possible for 

others to share the same experiences and, from these small beginnings, the company was born. 

Audley offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s 

interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity 

and a passion for travel. Today Audley is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour 

operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin 

America, Australasia, Antarctica and the Arctic, Canada and Alaska. 

Tailor-made journeys 

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip 

is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or 

luxurious accommodation, have great guides on 

hand or explore under your own steam, travel for 

one week or five, we can create a trip to match 

your tastes and budget. We can also design trips 

for a special occasion, where added touches can 

change an adventurous journey into a spectacular 

honeymoon, anniversary or birthday celebration. 

We can also tailor your trip to particular interests, 

such as wildlife and diving, and have the specialist 

knowledge to match. Throughout the brochure 

you will find suggested itineraries and some of our 

favourite places to stay. These are included purely 

to offer inspiration and give you a flavour of what 

is possible, as each journey is created individually 

to give you the opportunity to experience a 

destination in exactly the way you choose. 

Planning your trip 

Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if 

you just want some general guidance, call one 

of our Japan specialists on 01993 838 210. 

They can offer advice and discuss your plans 

with you, before creating a detailed itinerary, 

which will be forwarded to you together with 

maps, accommodation information, colour 

photographs and a price. Your specialist can 

then continue to refine the plans until you are 

completely satisfied. They will be on hand from 

the start of the planning process to your return 

and are always available to answer questions 

and offer sound advice. 

Specialist knowledge 

Our Japan specialists have all travelled extensively 

throughout the country and in many cases 

lived there, so you can rely on their extensive 

first-hand knowledge. They regularly return to 

see the accommodation, meet our guides – 

many of whom are firm friends – experience all 

the excursions and activities, and keep up-to-date 

with local developments. They pride themselves 

on having an honest ‘tell it how it is’ approach 

to planning your trip and, as well as their own 

extensive knowledge, are able to draw on the 

considerable collective experience of their 

colleagues. We believe this approach is unique 

to Audley and the only way we can genuinely 

offer you a tailor-made service. 

Financial security 

All travel arrangements in this brochure that 

include a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil 

Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817. 

Please see our booking conditions for more 

information. If your arrangements do not include 

any flights they are protected by a separate 

financial scheme, for further details please visit 

www.audleytravel.com/protect 

Mount Fuji and cherry blossom 

Contents 

Introduction 2-5 

Central Japan 6-19 

Onsen bathing 13 

Ryokan 16-17 

Food 20-21 

Northern Japan 22-27 

Festivals 26 

Japan through the seasons 28-29 

Southern Japan 30-34 

Useful information 35 

Introduction 3

Experience Japan 

Platform guard, Tokyo station 

In the archetypal image of the sleek bullet train gliding past snow-capped Mount Fuji, 

the magic of Japan is encapsulated in one freeze frame: natural and modern merging in 

harmony. Japan’s four main islands contain a wealth of variety and attractions, from the 

thronging cities of Tokyo and Hiroshima to the provincial spa towns and rugged wilderness 

that lie beyond. Delve into Japan’s rich cultural heritage in Kyoto and Kanazawa to witness 

traditional ceremonies, dress and theatre, and take a glimpse into the secluded world of the 

geisha. Enjoy too, the cuisine, taking time to sample the numerous local and seasonal 

delicacies to be found in every city and town. The appeal of Japan encompasses all tastes and 

ages, whether your interests lie in embracing modern pop-culture or in pursuing outdoor 

activities among high mountain peaks and deep, rushing gorges. Relax on white sand beaches 

in southerly Okinawa or whale-watch in wintry Hokkaido; the scope of experiences to choose 

from is truly immense. In Japan, mountain scenery and crystal lakes, neon-lit skyscrapers 

and landscaped gardens form a striking backdrop to a world that will fascinate you at 

every step of your journey. 

Akihabara district, Tokyo 

Geisha, Kyoto 

Audley in Japan 

To many first-time visitors Japan can be, at times, 

the most ‘foreign’ place on earth. Whilst this is 

one of the country’s most appealing aspects, it 

can also cause practical difficulties, which can be 

compounded by the often prohibitive cost of 

private transport and guides. It is therefore 

essential to have your trip planned by someone 

who knows the country and how best to arrange 

a visit there, who can talk you through the 

precise details of your day by day itinerary. 

We generally recommend making use of 

Japan’s world-class rail network to travel around 

the country, combining this with carefully 

selected private and small group tours and 

excursions to help you to get your bearings. Your 

accommodation will be hand-picked according to 

your taste and budget, with your Japan specialist 

choosing from our personally researched selection 

of hotels and traditional ryokan inns. 

Thanks to our thorough knowledge of the 

destination, we are able to provide you with 

extremely comprehensive transport and 

accommodation information (in both English and 

Japanese) before your departure, to enable you 

to get as much out of the country as possible 

during your stay. Our approach ensures that, 

from your first phone call, you will talk to an 

expert whose first-hand knowledge and detailed 

planning will provide you with all the support 

required to experience the real Japan. 

Local customs and etiquette 

Japanese manners and customs are vastly different 

from those of the Western world, and a strict 

code of behaviour and politeness is recognised 

and followed by most people in Japan. However, 

the Japanese are aware of the difference between 

themselves and the West and therefore do not 

expect visitors to be familiar with all customs, but 

do expect formal and polite behaviour. When 

entering a Japanese home or restaurant it is 

customary to remove shoes. Usually the point at 

which this should occur is very clearly marked by 

a raised step and a rack where shoes are 

exchanged for indoor slippers. Use the slippers 

provided, but remember to swap into special 

toilet slippers when necessary. Forgetting to swap 

back can be embarrassing, though will almost 

certainly happen at least once during your stay! 

You can largely apply the principle of ‘when in 

Rome...’ to eating etiquette. Sometimes you’ll be 

surprised by the slurping of your neighbours, 

while at others, dining habits appear somewhat 

more formal. The principle thing to avoid, in 

common with most of northern Asia, is leaving 

your chopsticks sticking up vertically from your 

rice bowl. This is reminiscent of the incense burnt 

for the dead and is considered bad form. 

4

Nebuta festival float, Aomori 

Rail travel 

Stretching from the southern tip of Kyushu Island 

to the far north of Hokkaido, Japan’s extensive 

rail network is justifiably the envy of the world, 

running with a speed and efficiency that make 

travel by train an absolute pleasure. Furthermore, 

with English increasingly in use around the 

network, it is becoming ever easier for the 

first-time visitor to make the most of this fantastic 

service. The world-famous, futuristic shinkansen 

‘bullet trains’ link Japan’s main cities and make 

journeys from Tokyo to Kyoto (and beyond) an 

experience in themselves. There are also some 

truly scenic rail journeys in Japan: among the best 

are the journeys that show off the coastal views 

around Tottori and Matsue or the dramatic river 

valleys and mountain vistas leading up to the 

Japan Alps region. In the majority of trips, 

we will include a Japan Rail Pass for either 

standard or first class seating, which 

allows free access on almost the 

entire Japan Rail network. 

These passes represent 

excellent value (a one-week 

pass costs less than a return 

Tokyo to Kyoto ticket) 

and allow a degree of 

flexibility that puts 

you in full control 

of your trip. 

Regions of Japan 

For the purposes of this brochure we have 

broadly split Japan into three sections. Northern 

Japan encompasses the northerly island of 

Hokkaido and the region known as Tohoku 

which stretches north from Tokyo to the 

tip of the mainland, Central Japan, which 

takes in central and western Honshu island 

and Southern Japan, which covers the 

smaller southerly islands of Kyushu 

and Shikoku and the sub-tropical 

island chain of Okinawa. 

Rice fields, Shikoku 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Introduction 5

Central Japan 

T 

he central and western areas of Honshu 

encompass many of Japan’s classic 

highlights. Parts of the island are among the 

most densely populated and urbanised areas 

in the world, although there are pockets of 

rural village life and countryside scenery too. 

The must-see spots of Tokyo, Kyoto, Hakone 

and Hiroshima are all linked by an efficient 

rail system and can be easily visited in a 

two week period, along with the slightly 

more off the beaten track destination of 

Tsumago in the quiet Kiso valley. All of 

Japan’s contrasts and icons can be found in 

central Japan, from towering skyscrapers and 

thronging crowds to peaceful temples and 

manicured gardens. Much of Japan’s most 

glorious mountain scenery is in the Japanese 

Alps, linked to Tokyo by bullet train. 

Kamikochi and the Tateyama-Kurobe 

Alpine route offer breathtaking hiking and 

walking, and Nagano is a skiing and 

snowboarding paradise, with world-class 

runs and resorts. There is wildlife here too, 

with Yudanaka home to the playful snow 

monkeys. Further west, quiet and attractive 

artisan towns such as Matsue and Tsuwano 

show a different side to Japan. 

6

Audley in Central Japan 

3 

2 

7 

9 

4 

5 

6 

8 

1 

The majority of our trips are based in 

central Japan, as all the major sights can be 

easily accessed and travelling around them is 

relatively straight-forward. To help you get 

the best out of your time in central Japan we 

plan your trip to match your interests and 

can combine the well-known highlights of the 

region with more unusual experiences such 

as taking part in a tea ceremony with the 

ladies of the Women’s Association of Kyoto. 

In most instances exploration is under your 

own steam but we provide detailed notes 

to assist you in your travels. 

1 Tokyo 

Delve into the hustle and 

bustle of Japan’s energetic 

and contrasting capital city, 

from smoky temples to 

towering skyscrapers. 

2 Kyoto’s heritage 

Search out ancient temples, 

peaceful gardens and 

elusive geisha. 

3 Miyajima Island 

See the sun go down over 

the iconic ‘floating’ torii gate. 

The Japan Alps 

4 Japan Alps 

Take in fresh mountain air and 

the region’s river, valley and 

mountain scenery. 

5 

Tsumago 

7 Mount Koya 

Take the funicular railway up 

to Mount Koya for some Zen 

contemplation. 

8 Nikko 

The UNESCO World Heritage 

Site has spectacular temple and 

lakeside scenery. 

9 Kanazawa 

Home to Kenrokuen Garden, 

one of the finest examples of 

landscaped gardens in Japan. 

Where private guiding is an option we 

choose from a small group of excellent 

national and local guides, many of whom 

have escorted the Japan team members 

on tours around Tokyo and Kyoto on 

research trips. 

Accommodation 

Accommodation in this part of Japan is 

mixed, from western-style business hotels 

through to charming family-run inns, and we 

pride ourselves on being able to recommend 

a variety of types of hand-picked 

accommodation during your stay. 

For a slice of bygone Japan, visit 

this quiet village in the unspoilt 

Kiso Valley. 

6 

Yudanaka Onsen 

Kyoto Temple at dusk 

Observe the playful snow 

monkeys bathing in the hot 

spring waters. 

Snow monkey, Yudanaka 

Duncan and Izumi Flett, local Kyoto guides 

Find out more 

For suggested itineraries and practical 

information about travel in central Japan, 

please see page 18-19. 

☎ 

www.audleytravel.com 

Interactive maps and features, 

further suggested itineraries, 

accommodation, climate information 

and articles written by our specialists. 

Discuss your plans with our Japan 

specialists 01993 838 210 

Tuna auction, Tsukiji fish market, Tokyo 

Central Japan 7

Shibuya district, Tokyo 

8 

Imperial Palace, Tokyo 

24 hours in Tokyo 

An ideal first day in Tokyo would start 

with an early sushi breakfast at the 

world-renowned Tsukiji fish market. 

The raucous tuna auctions begin at the 

crack of dawn and draw in hundreds of 

visitors, buyers and traders each morning. 

Later, explore the Imperial Palace 

Gardens and Tokyo Tower, continue on 

to Senso-ji Temple and the Hamarikyu 

Gardens and perhaps finish with a cruise 

along Tokyo Bay to Odaiba. In the 

evening, plunge into the extravagance of 

the shopping and entertainment districts 

of Shibuya and Ginza, finishing with 

dinner at one of the countless 

restaurants to suit every palate and 

budget. For longer stays in Tokyo there 

is plenty more to amuse and entertain. 

Tokyo 

Take an evening stroll through the Shinjuku 

district of Tokyo and every preconceived image 

of modern Japan will be there to greet you; the 

thronging crowds decked out in the wildest 

fashions, towering skyscrapers, flashing neon, and 

all the noise and excitement of what is perhaps 

the world’s ultimate metropolis. Shinjuku is Tokyo, 

but so are the smoky Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa 

and the green oasis of Meiji-jingu Shrine. Japan’s 

capital is a city of countless sub-centres, each with 

its own distinct atmosphere. Tokyo is best 

explored over a number of days, covering several 

areas over the course of a day. Staying near the 

circular JR Yamanote train line allows convenient 

access to most major sights, which can be seen 

either on an organised private tour or 

independently, using the comprehensive notes 

that will be provided for you. Tokyo holds 

something for everyone and your stay can be 

Young women in kimono, Akihabara district 

Park view room, Peninsula Tokyo 

tailored around any aspect that interests you, 

from visiting the modern architecture of 

Roppongi, to stopping in at the Museum of 

Emerging Science and Innovation on Odaiba 

island, shopping in the boutiques of the quieter 

yet up-and-coming districts of Daikanyama or 

Ebisu, or simply taking in a mixture of everything. 

The city also holds countless attractions for 

younger visitors, including celebrated anime 

director Miyazaki's Studio Ghibli Museum, Tokyo 

Disneyland and numerous karaoke booths. Tokyo 

can be bewildering at first, shocking at times and 

confusing at others, but we ensure that you are 

well prepared to take it all in and really make the 

most of your time here. You will leave Tokyo 

amazed and in awe, your senses awash with 

colours and contrasts, noises and smells. Tokyo is 

simply unforgettable.

Senso-ji Temple, Tokyo Sake casks, Meiji-jingu Shrine Entrance to Meiji-jingu Shrine 

Tokyo skyline 

PENINSULA, TOKYO 

Ideally located close to the Ginza/Marunouchi 

area of Tokyo, the Peninsula is one of the newer 

additions to the selection of luxury five star hotels 

in the city, having opened in September 2007. 

The rooms are very generously apportioned, a 

rarity in such a crowded city. The hotel looks 

over the Hibiya Gardens, which can be seen 

from the 25 metre swimming pool or bubbling 

Jacuzzi. The spa at the hotel is wonderful and 

often has very good offers on treatments or 

packages. A stay at the Peninsula Tokyo is always 

an enjoyable experience and the staff are 

welcoming and eager to help. 

MITSUI GARDEN GINZA, TOKYO 

The Mitsui Garden Ginza is a good value, medium 

standard hotel, very well located in the heart of 

the famous Ginza shopping district and just a 

short walk from JR Shimbashi station. Some of the 

deluxe rooms have spectacular views over Tokyo 

Bay and Tower, and the standard rooms, although 

certainly on the small side, are decorated in 

modern, contemporary tones by Italian designer 

Piero Lisoni. The hotel makes a great base for 

sightseeing in central Tokyo, the Tsukiji fish 

market and Hamarikyu Gardens. The restaurant 

serves high quality breakfast, lunch and dinner 

and there is a good bar for evening drinks. 

Sumo 

With a history spanning many centuries, 

sumo is Japan’s most popular traditional 

sport. Highly ritualised, it’s a truly fascinating 

experience - watching a titanic clash between 

two enormous, near naked wrestlers is one 

you are not likely to forget. There are six 

tournaments a year, two of which take place 

in Tokyo’s impressive Kokugikan sumo hall. 

Each lasts around 15 days but the fights 

themselves are much briefer affairs with 

bouts lasting a matter of seconds. 

Wrestlers on way to a championship 

Sumo wrestlers prepare to fight 

Rules & traditions 

The idea of sumo is to force your opponent 

out of the ring or to throw him to the floor 

using one or more of the 82 techniques. Just 

some of the rituals involved in sumo include 

the referee pouring an offering of sake onto 

the ring as part of a dedication ceremony, 

the ritual stomping before a match (shiko) 

that drives away evil spirits, and the salt that 

is tossed into the ring by the wrestlers for 

further purification. 

To this day, women are still forbidden to 

step into the ring as they are considered to 

violate its sanctity. 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Central Japan 9

Daibutsu Budda, Kamakura 

Nikko & Kamakura 

Only a couple of hours north of the capital, the 

small mountain town of Nikko feels like another 

world. Here, beneath the cool cedars, stands the 

magnificent Toshogu Shrine, mausoleum to the 

first and greatest Tokugawa Shogun on whom 

James Clavell based his famous novel. The superb 

carvings of the shrine, including the original ‘see 

no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil’ monkey 

carvings, are complemented by the beautiful 

mountain setting. After a thorough exploration of 

the shrine precinct we recommend heading up 

the hairpin road to enjoy the fine scenery of Lake 

Chuzenji and the Kegon waterfall. For Tokyo-ites 

the tranquil seaside town of Kamakura, which lies 

just an hour south of the city, is a favourite 

getaway from the hustle and bustle of daily life. 

Dotted with secluded shrines and temples – 

remnants of the town’s brief halcyon days as 

Lake Chuzenji, Nikko 

10 

Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji, Hakone 

capital of the nation – Kamakura is also home to 

the Daibutsu Buddha, which, carved out of 

bronze, stands over 13 metres tall in the grounds 

of Kotoku-in Temple. 

Mount Fuji & the Hakone 

National Park 

Head westwards from Tokyo and the land 

immediately becomes more mountainous, offering 

beautiful alpine views and some fantastic locations 

for hot spring bathing. The Hakone National Park, 

home to volcanic scenery, picturesque Lake Ashi 

and an excellent open-air sculpture park, is 

perhaps the finest of these. Towering above the 

whole is Japan’s foremost natural sight, the 

majestic Mount Fuji, whose iconic snow-capped 

peak has been portrayed in countless works of 

Japanese art and literature. In Japan, it is said that 

a wise man climbs Fuji-san once in his life, but 

only a fool climbs it twice. Sadly Fuji is notoriously 

shy and is often cloud-bound, leading us to 

believe that the wisest of all men stay at a safe 

distance relaxing in the Hakone National Park. 

With luck you will be able to catch a glimpse of 

Fuji’s snow-capped summit from the comfort of a 

hot spring bath. It is possible to climb Mount Fuji 

for a short window during July and August. 

HAKONE GINYU, HAKONE 

This Relais and Chateaux property is one of the 

finest examples of the traditional ryokan inn (see 

page 16) anywhere in Japan, with hints of Balinese 

design and an emphasis on subtle and discreet 

elegance. Luxurious relaxation is important here 

and you leave feeling pampered in every way. 

The ryokan is noted as a spa resort and all the 

baths are fed by the mineral-rich thermal water 

from the Mount Fuji region. Hakone Ginyu is one 

of our favourite hot spring inns in Japan. 

Hakone Ginyu

Hida Folk Village, near Takayama 

Cherry blossoms and pagoda, Takayama 

Market trader, Wajima, Noto Peninsula 

Nakasendo Highway, Kiso Valley 

Takayama & Shirakawago 

Surrounded by the snow-capped peaks of the 

northern Alps, the traditional Sanmachi district 

of Takayama possesses a charming old-world 

atmosphere and some fine Edo-period 

architecture. A highlight of the region is the 

twice-yearly spring and autumn festival, when 

impressive floats are paraded through the streets 

to the sound of taiko drumming and singing. 

Nearby, hidden in deep mountain valleys, is the 

UNESCO World Heritage village of Shirakawago, 

home to the few remaining traditional mountain 

farmhouses in the gassho-zukuri style. 

Shirakawago 

Kenrokuen Garden, Kanazawa 

Kanazawa & Noto Peninsula 

The highlight of the convivial modern city of 

Kanazawa, within easy reach of Takayama or 

Kyoto, is Japan’s number one garden, the 

magnificent Kenrokuen. Built in the classic ‘stroll 

garden’ style, this is a wonderful place in which to 

observe and enjoy the six elements that combine 

to form the perfect Japanese garden. While in 

Kanazawa it is also well worth exploring the 

Samurai district with its craft museums, and 

perhaps even visiting Ninja-dera, a temple famous 

for its association with this shadowy clan of 

assassins. Within striking distance of Kanazawa is 

the windswept, rugged Noto Peninsula, a world 

away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo or 

Kyoto. The Noto Peninsula is accessed by car or 

plane, offering beach drives, swimming, walking 

and relaxing in one of the many hot spring resorts 

that pepper the coastline. 

Kiso Valley 

This scenic region of central Honshu is one of the 

most beautiful and accessible ways for the visitor 

to experience the ‘real’ Japan. Here lies one of 

the few remaining sections of the historic 

Nakasendo Highway, the route by which the 

Samurai travelled between the Emperor’s base at 

Kyoto and Tokyo, the seat of real power during 

the reign of the Tokugawa Shoguns. The towns 

here have been preserved in their original glory, 

with construction subject to strict regulation to 

prevent their unique style from being spoilt. 

Tsumago, a small village in the Kiso Valley is one 

of our favourite spots in Japan, made even better 

by the warm welcome at one of the simple but 

atmospheric traditional Japanese inns, such as the 

travelling Samurai would have stayed in over 

200 years ago. 

Tsumago, Kiso Valley 


Mount Tsurugidake, Kamikochi 

Bathing monkey, Yudanaka Onsen 

Crow Castle, Matsumoto 

12 

Tateyama-Kurobe 

Alpine Route 

The Alpine Route connects Toyama 

and Nagano prefectures (similar to UK 

counties) and is a mountain lover’s 

paradise, offering stunning views of the 

Tateyama Range of the northern Japan 

Alps and many excellent trekking 

opportunities. The route is also a must 

for engineering enthusiasts, as central to 

the traverse is the Kurobe Dam, which 

was constructed in 1971 and, at 186 

metres, is the tallest dam in Japan and a 

staggering feat of engineering. 

The most spectacular parts of the 

traverse are the cable car journey 

overlooking the dam, and arrival at 

Murodo, which both offer 360 degree 

alpine views. From Murodo there are 

plenty of trails to hike or walk along, 

varying in difficulty and altitude, with the 

hike to the peak of Mount Tateyama 

being particularly rewarding. The route is 

open from April until October, each 

season offering something a little different, 

from the steep yuki no otani snow curtains 

of the spring to the rich gold and red 

hues of the changing leaves in autumn. 

Kappabashi Bridge, Kamikochi 

Matsumoto 

The hub for the Japan Alps region is the 

picturesque town of Matsumoto, a small but 

cosmopolitan city on the edge of the mountains. 

Its history dates back to the 8th century but it is 

most famous for its fine castle which was built in 

1595 and is known as ‘Crow Castle’ because of 

its striking black and white design. Although much 

of the city is modern, you can still find traditional 

lattice-patterned buildings in the old merchant 

district. Most of these are now craft shops, tea 

houses or restaurants. 

Snow monkeys, Yudanaka Onsen 

Kamikochi 

Kamikochi is one of the most beautiful places in 

Japan; a haven of unspoilt nature. The ice-blue 

glacial waters of Azusagawa River carve through 

the valley, framed by the soaring Alps, capped 

most of the year by snow. Kamikochi is the 

perfect place in which to stretch your legs with 

easy walks along the river and across the famed 

Kappabashi Bridge. Some of the country’s most 

exhilarating mountain treks can be accessed from 

Kamikochi and there are also plenty of good day 

walks that hikers and ramblers alike will enjoy. 

Yudanaka Onsen 

The small town of Yudanaka is a hot spring resort 

popular not only with humans but also with the 

native Macaque ‘snow’ monkey. At the Jigokudani 

Onsen, which is known as ‘Hell Valley’ due to the 

bubbling hot sulphur vents dotted around it, more 

than 100 monkeys congregate in one of the hot 

spring baths, presumably to relax and warm up as 

humans do. They can be seen throughout the 

year, but are especially picture perfect during the 

cold winter months when the air temperature 

drops below freezing and the valley is covered by 

a thick layer of snow. The small town of Obuse is 

a short train ride away and is home to the 

Hokkusai museum containing replicas and originals 

of the artist’s wood-block paintings, such as the 

acclaimed ‘Wave’.

Onsen bathing 

Traditional onsen, Akita 

The Japanese are very proud of their longstanding 

tradition of hot spring onsen bathing, 

and rightly so, for a visit to the communal 

baths is truly a highlight of any trip. Onsen 

bathing is highly recommended both for its 

cultural importance and for the simple pleasure 

of soaking in a steaming hot bath, especially 

welcome after the rigours of travel. There are 

around 3,000 hot springs in the country, many 

in spectacular locations high up in mountains 

or perched on cliff sides. The art of bathing 

has become almost a religious act for the 

Japanese and a trip to an onsen can be the 

highlight of their year. Many ryokan inns or 

Japanese style hotels offer onsen packages 

including accommodation and seasonal cuisine. 

Light cotton yukata robes are provided in 

your room, along with wooden sandals to 

use inside the accommodation. 

Male bathers at Tsurunoyu Onsen 

Indoor bathing area 

The baths 

Japanese baths are deep enough to sit in 

comfortably up to the neck and are usually 

large enough for a number of people to 

bathe at once. The bath is filled to the top 

with very hot water which can either be 

normal tap water, or if you are at an onsen 

resort, mineral-rich onsen water. This type of 

water is incredibly good for you and can be 

easily recognised by its (sometimes strong) 

sulphurous smell, as well as by its cloudy 

appearance. There are also iron-fed waters – 

more rusty in colour – which have different 

healing properties. Onsen waters are said 

to cure many ailments, from arthritis to 

rheumatism, fatigue and nervous disorders. 

Men and women normally bathe separately, 

except in some remote country areas 

where traditional mixed bathing can still 

be experienced. 

Bathing etiquette 

There are a number of options for taking your 

first bath, be it at a traditional ryokan or at a 

specific onsen resort. Baths are customarily 

taken in the evening in Japanese society, but 

most inns will offer bathing throughout the 

day. There may be the opportunity to try an 

open air bath called a rotemburo, a particularly 

atmospheric initiation into the rituals of hot 

spring bathing – gazing at the stars or watching 

the snowflakes fall around you. 

Enter the bathroom naked (apart from a 

small towel which you can purchase on entry 

or which may have been provided in your 

hotel room and which can be used to 

preserve your modesty!). Swimming costumes 

are not allowed. You can take your own 

shampoo and soap into the room if you like, 

although generic brands will be provided for 

you. Shower attachments will be located 

around the bath and you should perch on 

the small stool provided to wash yourself 

thoroughly before entering the bath. Once 

you are sure you have rinsed off all soapsuds, 

enter the bath slowly – it will be hot! Do not 

take the small towel in with you. Relax and 

enjoy the bath. 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Onsen 13

Kodai-ji Temple gardens, Kyoto 

Kyoto 

For many centuries Kyoto was Japan’s capital and 

to this day it retains the nation’s greatest and 

most glorious concentration of cultural treasures. 

Kyoto is the Japan of the imagination: a city of 

grand palaces, ornate shrines and exquisite 

gardens, mercifully spared from the World War II 

bombing that razed other Japanese cities. 

However, Kyoto has not stood still, and this is 

undeniably a modern city where pockets of 

ancient Japan nonetheless linger and kimono-clad 

geisha still shuffle along narrow, lamp-lit streets. 

We have sought out some of Japan’s finest 

ryokan to allow you to experience their magical 

atmosphere and to ensure that your visit to 

Kyoto is one of the highlights of your time in 

Japan. Such is the wealth of attractions in Kyoto 

that we recommend at least a few days here 

to soak it all in. 

YOSHIKAWA RYOKAN, KYOTO 

The Yoshikawa Ryokan in Kyoto is one of a 

small group of much sought-after Japanese inns. 

The service is refined and the rooms, furnished 

in traditional style, look onto the exquisite 

garden with its pond filled with koi carp. You will 

sleep on a plump futon bed which is laid out and 

then removed in the morning by your maid. 

The Yoshikawa Ryokan is renowned for its 

famous tempura restaurant, which is certainly 

worth sampling. 

Geisha district walk 

The image of a geisha dressed in a fine silk 

kimono and teetering on wooden geta 

sandals is one of the most iconic, yet perhaps 

most misunderstood, symbols of Japan. 

Scores of books have been written about 

the elusive world of the geisha, many 

hundreds of photographers have tried to 

capture the beauty and grace of the women, 

and numerous films have been made 

depicting the stories of refined tea house 

entertainment, strict okiya training houses 

and, of course, the love, lust and romance 

that have long been associated with the 

geisha community. In their 1920s heyday, 

there were more than 80,000 geisha in Japan. 

Today, based mostly in Kyoto’s hanamachi 

districts (literally ‘flower towns’), there are 

fewer than 2,000. Geisha attend private 

functions, entertaining both male and female 

guests and can be see scuttling between 

appointments in the Gion district every 

evening. They can also be seen performing 

traditional dances at exclusive restaurants 

around the city or at luxury ryokan, although 

these private engagements come with a high 

price tag. A far more accessible way to see 

geisha is to take an evening walk around 

Geisha, Gion 

Gion with our guide Duncan and his wife 

Izumi who have been working with Audley 

since 2005 to help shed some light on the 

exclusive and mysterious world of the geisha 

and other aspects of Japanese culture. 

14

Kinkaku-ji Golden Pavilion, Kyoto 

Shrine gates, Fushimi, Kyoto 

Ikebana teacher 

Traditional crafts 

& pastimes 

Japan is rightly famed for the delicacy 

and refinement of its traditional crafts 

and pastimes, such as ikebana flower 

arranging, origami, bonsai and the tea 

ceremony. The Women’s Association 

of Kyoto has established a range of 

short introductions to various aspects 

of Japanese culture, craft and cookery 

that allow you to visit a real Japanese 

home and try your hand at traditional 

skills. Courses are run by local women 

keen to share their hobbies and skills 

with visitors, and offer you the chance 

to enrich your time in Japan by 

interacting with local people on an 

individual level. 

Todai-ji Temple, Nara 

Mount Koya 

Guardian statue at Todai-ji Temple, Nara 

Nara 

A short train ride from Kyoto is historic Nara, an 

earlier capital. While Kyoto’s continuing eminence 

over the centuries has led to its development into 

a large, bustling city, the significance of Nara soon 

waned once the capital was relocated, and today 

it is a relaxed town with some beautiful sights. 

Nara residents are justifiably proud of the Todai-ji 

Temple, which houses Japan’s largest bronze 

Buddha, as well as the tranquil expanses of the 

surrounding deer park where the sacred deer are 

so little afraid of humans that they will eat food 

out of your hand. Nara can easily be visited as a 

day trip from Kyoto or as an overnight stay for 

those with more time. 

High in the forested mountains of the Kii 

Peninsula, south of Osaka, lies the monastic 

complex of Mount Koya, the home of the esoteric 

Shingon Buddhist sect. Recently designated a 

UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town contains 

more than a hundred different temples, many of 

which offer lodging for pilgrims and visitors, 

allowing you to join the monks in their daily 

routines, share their delicious vegetarian cuisine, 

and experience a very different aspect of Japanese 

society. Take a stroll at dusk along the winding, 

lantern-lit paths through the Okuno-in cemetery 

for a uniquely atmospheric experience. Other 

temples across Japan offer similar opportunities 

to stay and join in the monastic life; please 

speak to our specialists for more information. 

Konpon Daito Temple, Mount Koya 

Monk, Mount Koya 

TENTOKU-IN SHUKUBO, 

MOUNT KOYA 

Known as ‘shukubo’, the accommodation here 

was originally designed for the Buddhist monks 

and pilgrims who visited the temple for training 

or worship, but is now open to members of the 

public. The food served here is shojin, which is 

vegetarian in accordance with Buddhist practices. 

Rooms are quite small and basic, but quaintly 

Japanese in style with tatami flooring and sliding 

rice paper doors. Your futon bed is made up in 

the evening and some guest rooms have views 

over the superb Japanese garden, accredited to 

master garden designer Kobori Enshu, at the 

centre of the temple. 


Ryokan 

Room at the Gion Hatanaka ryokan, Kyoto 

Japan offers international-style hotels of all 

standards, from excellent value business hotels 

to the finest five star accommodation. 

However, we recommend that at least one 

night be spent sampling the unique hospitality 

offered at a traditional ryokan (pronounced 

ree-oh-kan) inn. These can vary from homely 

guesthouses to the sublime sophistication of 

Kyoto’s finest establishments, but all share the 

same devotion to excellent service and warm 

hospitality. A stay at a ryokan is far more than 

just a place to lay your head for the night – 

we guarantee that it will become one of the 

defining experiences of your time in Japan. 

Garden at the Yoshikawa ryokan, Kyoto 

View onto the garden at the Tawaraya ryokan, Kyoto 

16

Owner of Yoshikawa traditional inn, Kyoto 

Ofuro bath, Gora Kadan ryokan, Hakone 

Evening meal at the Tsubakino ryokan, Yudanaka Onsen 

Outdoor roof bath, Tsubakino ryokan, Yudanaka Onsen 

The ryokan experience 

The welcome 

When you arrive at the ryokan, you’ll enter 

through the main door where you will be 

greeted with a bow by the attentive staff. 

You’ll notice a raised step at the entrance and 

a set of shoes neatly stacked by the door. It is 

customary to remove your shoes at this point 

and you will be provided with a pair of slippers 

to wear around the ryokan. Let your host 

show you what to do – they won’t be 

expecting you to be experts in ryokan etiquette. 

You will be escorted to your room and served 

a cup of green tea and a small snack by your 

kimono-clad hostess. 

Sleeping and bathing arrangements 

Fundamental to the ryokan is the elegant 

tatami-mat style of room where your futon bed 

is carefully laid out each night. The beauty of 

Japanese accommodation is that every inch of 

space is used wisely, and the futons will be kept 

out of the way to give you maximum space 

during the day. Your futons will be laid out at 

bedtime for you by your maid so do not 

attempt to roll them out yourself. Your maid 

will also clear away your futons for you in the 

morning. Extra pillows and blankets are available 

on request. You will notice a cotton yukata 

robe, over-coat and small toiletries bag next to 

the low table in your room or in the futon 

cupboard. These are provided for relaxing in 

and to take to the shared bathing facility known 

as the ofuro. Although most properties have 

en suite bathrooms, it is highly recommended 

to take a soak in the ofuro before bedtime, as 

the hot, thermal waters will soak away any 

aches and pains and help you sleep. 

Ryokan cuisine 

Dinner will most likely be included as part of 

the package. Meals in ryokan inns can be a little 

daunting but will (mostly) be palatable to 

western taste buds. Both breakfast and dinner 

will be at set times and, depending on the type 

of inn you are a guest at, are likely be served 

to you in your room, although sometimes a 

communal dining hall is used instead. 

Japanese breakfast consists of several small 

plates of food including miso soup, rice, grilled 

fish, pickles and dried seaweed. This sort of 

meal can be quite filling for those used to a bite 

of toast and quick coffee in the morning, but is 

very nutritious and satisfying. 

Dinner is a grander affair, typically consisting of 

up to seven or eight small courses. The meal 

starts with an assortment of appetisers, followed 

by sashimi (sliced raw fish), a cooked fish and/or 

meat dish (sometimes on a hot plate or 

bubbling nabe pot), tofu, pickles, rice and fruit. 

All the ingredients will have been chosen 

according to the season and you will receive 

a different variation on the meal each day of 

your stay. Often you won’t know what it is that 

you are eating as some things seem to be 

untranslatable, but rest assured that it will all be 

local and fresh. If you do not like something, 

then please don’t feel obliged to eat it; your 

hosts are used to foreign guests not being quite 

ready for some of the more unusual Japanese 

dishes. Special dietary requirements can be 

catered for in most cases. 

For more detailed information on Japanese food, 

see the feature on pages 20 and 21. 

Hostess at the Sumiyoshi ryokan, Takayama 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Ryokan 17

Tailoring your trip 

Sunset over Miyajima Island 

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a 

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that 

work particularly well. We can use these as a 

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely 

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. 

Please call one of our Japan specialists to start 

planning your itinerary. 

Hiroshima 

Kyoto 

Tsumago 

Hakone 

Tokyo 

Telephone: 01993 838 210 

Getting around 

View of atomic bomb dome, Hiroshima 

Hiroshima & Miyajima 

Beneath an arched cenotaph in Hiroshima’s 

Memorial Park a flame burns, waiting to be 

extinguished once the world is finally rid of 

nuclear weapons. Close by, thousands of paper 

cranes, a symbol of health and longevity, are 

spread in silent protest around the poignant 

Children’s Peace Memorial. But the modern 

city is fully revitalised after the tragedies of 

World War II, and it is easy to explore its 

lively and energetic core. A short ferry ride 

from Hiroshima is the peaceful island of 

Miyajima, renowned for the great red ‘floating’ 

torii gate set in the picturesque Itsukushima 

Bay. Considered by the Japanese to be one 

of their ‘three great sights’, Miyajima is a must 

for any visitor to this part of the country. 

Western Honshu 

Sited conveniently along the main bullet train 

line between Kyoto and Hiroshima, a wealth 

of traditional towns and picturesque fishing 

villages make fascinating pauses on your 

journey. Himeji boasts the elegant Shirasagi-jo 

‘White Egret’ castle, considered Japan’s finest; 

Okayama is home to the top-rated Korakuen 

Garden, and at Kurashiki the historic canal-side 

Bikan district is ideal for an hour or two’s 

relaxation, while admiring the golden koi and 

watching the world go by. Head for the 

northern coast of Western Honshu and you 

find yourself in a more traditional and lessvisited 

Japan. The old Samurai quarters and 

ruined castles of Tsuwano and Hagi, the 

superb Museum of Art at Matsue, and the 

fishing villages of the Tango Peninsula all fully 

justify a visit. With public transport more 

infrequent, we recommend that you pick up 

a rental car to discover this little-visited 

corner of Honshu. 

18 

Due to airline routings, most trips start and 

end at Tokyo’s Narita airport where you are 

met and assisted with your onward transfer. 

Most itineraries will include travel on the 

extensive Japanese public transportation system 

and any trains, buses or ferries that feature on 

your trip will be covered either by the cost 

effective Japan Rail Pass or by separate tickets 

purchased for you in advance of travel. Using 

public transport in Japan is straight-forward, 

with most stations having bilingual signs and 

announcements made in both Japanese and 

English. More detail on specific journeys and 

how to use trains, buses and taxis is detailed in 

your pre-departure final itinerary pack. Taxis are 

commonplace in cities and are useful for short 

journeys or to find your bearings. Being metered, 

you won’t find yourself haggling over the price of 

your journey. Away from the classic routes, a hire 

car may be the most practical option and English 

language maps, along with a satellite navigation 

system will be provided in your rental car. 

When to go 

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 

~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ~ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ 

✓✓ The best time to travel. 

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. 

~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year. 

✕ Travel is not recommended. 

Japan has four distinct seasons and being in the 

northern hemisphere these are roughly the same 

as U.K seasons. In central Japan winters are 

mostly cool and sunny, with heavy snowfall from 

December to April in the Japan Alps. Summer 

between June and September is hot and humid, 

with showers. Spring and autumn are by far the 

best times to visit central Japan. 

Time difference: GMT+9 hours 

Flight time from UK: 12 hours 

Prices 

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of 

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices 

for your trip to Japan on our website, alternatively 

please call our specialists to discuss your plans. 

Classic Japan 

This classic itinerary highlights the very best of 

Japan. From the towering skyscrapers of Tokyo to 

the peaceful temples and shrines of Kyoto, you’ll 

experience all the contrasts of Japan in two busy 

yet balanced weeks. Spend time in traditional 

accommodation, delve into recent history in 

Hiroshima and then finish your trip relaxing in a 

hot spring bath in the Hakone National Park, 

home to the iconic Mount Fuji. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Day 11 

Day 12 

Day 13 

Day 14 

Fly overnight from London to Tokyo. 

Arrive in Tokyo. 

Explore Tokyo at your own pace, 

including the Tsukiji fish market and 

Senso-ji Temple. 

Visit Nikko, a UNESCO World 

Heritage Site home to 

spectacular shrines. 

Take the train to the rural village 

of Tsumago and in the afternoon 

walk along part of the historic 

Nakasendo Highway. 

Travel by bullet train west to 

Hiroshima and visit the Peace Park 

and Memorial Museum. 

Cross by ferry to the scenic Miyajima 

Island for the day. 

Take the bullet train to Kyoto and in 

the afternoon you’ll be taken to a 

local home to participate in a cultural 

activity or cookery class. 

Explore Kyoto’s many fascinating 

shrines, temples and gardens. 

Visit nearby Nara, home to the great 

Todai-ji Buddha. In the evening take a 

stroll around the geisha district with a 

local guide. 

Travel by train to the Hakone 

National Park. The afternoon is 

at leisure. 

Explore Hakone. 

Return to Tokyo for a final day 

at leisure. 

Transfer to the airport and fly back 

to the UK, arriving on the same day.

Suggested itineraries 

Kanazawa 

Takayama 

Kanazawa 

Kamikochi 

Murodo 

Yudanaka 

Matsue 

Tottori 

Tsumago 

Kyoto 

Hakone 

Tokyo 

Matsumoto 

Tokyo 

Hagi 

Tsuwano 

Hiroshima 

Kyoto 

Tokyo 

Hiroshima 

Mt Koya 

Kyoto 

Ultimate Japan 

This comprehensive 22 day itinerary allows an 

in-depth exploration of the best that mainland 

Japan has to offer. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Day 11 

Day 12 

Day 13 

Day 14 

Day 15 

Day 16 

Day 17 

Day 18 

Day 19 

Day 20 

Day 21 



Explore Tokyo at your own pace. 

Visit Nikko’s Toshogu Shrine complex 

and Lake Chuzenji. 

See Tokyo’s more traditional side. 

Make your way to Tsumago to 

walk along the historic Nakasendo 

Highway. 

Visit the castle town of Matsumoto 

and later, travel through the Japanese 

Alps to Takayama. 

Explore Takayama. 

Travel to Kanazawa via the UNESCO 

World Heritage Site of Shirakawago. 

Explore Kanazawa, including 

Kenrokuen Garden. 

Travel by train to Hiroshima. 

Visit the evocative Peace Park and 

Memorial Museum. 

Cross the Inland Sea to Miyajima 

Island. Later, visit the small town 

of Iwakuni. 

Travel on to Kyoto and take part 

in a traditional tea ceremony or 

cookery class. 

Explore Kyoto at your own pace. 

Take in the quiet gardens of Kyoto. In 

the evening take a stroll around the 

Gion district with your local guide. 

Visit nearby Fushimi-Inari Shrine. 

Later, continue to Nara to see the 

Todai-ji Buddha. 

Travel to Mount Koya. You spend 

the night in temple lodgings. 

Explore Mount Koya. Take the train 

to the Hakone National Park. 

Explore the National Park. 

Return to Tokyo. 

Alpine Explorer 

The central Japan Alps region is one of the most 

beautiful in the country. From May to October 

walking, hiking and outdoor activities can be 

enjoyed, whilst the winter brings ample 

opportunity for skiing and snowboarding. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Day 11 

Day 12 

Day 13 

Day 14 

Day 15 

Day 16 



Explore the varied sights of Tokyo at 

your own pace. 

Travel to the small hot spring town 

of Yudanaka by train to see the 

playful snow monkeys. 

Visit nearby Obuse, a quiet 

artisan town. 

Take the train to Matsumoto and 

then travel by local bus to Kamikochi. 

Do some light walking or more 

serious hiking in and around 

Kamikochi. 

Return to Matsumoto today to 

explore the city, including the 

Crow Castle. 

Traverse the Alps across the 

Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route. 

You spend the evening in Murodo, 

around halfway along the route. 

Walk in the area and then continue 

on the route to Kanazawa. 

Explore Kenrokuen Garden 

and Kanazawa’s samurai and 

geisha districts. 

Take the express train to Kyoto. 

Try a traditional activity of your 

choice, such as calligraphy or 

flower arranging. 

Explore Kyoto at your own pace 

and in the evening take a walk 

around the geisha quarters with 

your local guide. 

Visit nearby Hiei-zan to see the 

temples perched high up in the hills. 

Return to Tokyo by bullet train. 

Transfer to the airport for the flight 

back to the UK. 

Coastal Japan 

The quiet fishing and artisan towns that dot the 

western coast of Japan provide a very different 

experience in Japan. Car hire is a necessity but 

driving allows total freedom to explore the coastal 

scenery along the way. A highlight of the trip will 

be the impressive sand dunes near Tottori and 

the castle at Matsue. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Day 11 

Day 12 

Day 13 

Day 14 




Take the bullet train to Kyoto and 

explore the city’s myriad of temples 

and shrines in the afternoon. 

This morning take the opportunity to 

try your hand at origami or calligraphy 

before visiting nearby Nara and the 

Todai-ji Temple in the afternoon. 

Take the train to Amanohashidate, 

one of Japan’s three most scenic 

spots. Admire the view over the 

coast before picking up your hire 

car and driving west to Tottori. 

Explore the Tottori coast by car, 

including the sand dunes. 

Drive to Matsue by car, stopping off 

to see Mount Daisen. Explore 

Matsue, including the castle. 

Travel by train from Matsue to Hagi, 

a small pottery town. The afternoon 

is at leisure. 

Transfer to Tsuwano from Hagi 

by train to see the castle, samurai 

quarters and many koi carp 

filled ponds. 

Take the train to Hiroshima. Explore 

the evocative Peace Park and 

Memorial Museum. 

Visit the scenic Miyajima Island, 

another of Japan’s most scenic spots, 

to see the ‘floating’ torii shrine gate. 

Take the bullet train to Tokyo and 

spend the afternoon at leisure. 

Return to the airport and fly back to 

the UK, arriving the same day. 

Day 22 

Fly from Tokyo to the UK. 


Food 

Street restaurant 

Many people are apprehensive of travelling to 

Japan and finding nothing to eat but raw fish. 

Of course, Japan is renowned for its fantastically 

fresh and delicate sushi and sashimi, but the 

country offers a wealth of other dishes to satisfy 

any palate. Part of the fun and indeed the 

challenge of travelling to Japan is to try out 

some of the unusual tastes of nihon ryori 

(Japanese cuisine) and the many regional and 

seasonal variations of which the locals are rightly 

proud. One thing to bear in mind when dining 

out in traditional restaurants is that they will 

usually serve one particular type of Japanese 

food only, i.e. a sushi restaurant would not serve 

okonomiyaki pancakes as well. So when eating 

out, first decide what you want to eat and then 

find a restaurant that serves it. 

Fresh sashimi 

Festival food, Takayama 

20

Food display outside izakaya restaurant 

Chef serving Japanese fast food 

Some highlights of Japanese cuisine 

Rice 

The staple of every Japanese meal. Steamed 

gohan (cooked rice) is served as a side dish to 

traditional breakfasts, lunches and dinners, and 

no meal is complete without it. 

Miso soup 

Another staple accompaniment to most meals, 

misoshiru is a light soup made from miso 

(soybean) paste, often served with tofu and 

spring onions. Miso soup is slurped from the 

bowl, using chopsticks rather than a spoon. 

Noodles 

Udon and soba are two of the main types of 

noodle found in the Japanese diet. Udon are 

thick wheat noodles usually served in a broth 

with tempura or vegetables or as an 

accompaniment to meat and fish main dishes. 

Soba noodles are thinner but are served in the 

same way. A popular way to eat either udon or 

soba is zaru, meaning basket, where the noodles 

are served chilled on a wicker basket with a 

topping of soy sauce, grated ginger, wasabi paste 

(a type of fiery green horseradish), shredded nori 

seaweed and spring onions. 

Sushi and Sashimi 

Sushi comes in several forms, of which 

nigiri-zushi (a slice of raw fish placed on top of 

a ball of vinegared rice), maki-zushi (a sushi roll 

wrapped in seaweed) and inari-zushi (rice in a 

pocket of sweet, fried tofu) are the most 

common. Some variations involve cooked fish, 

such as eel and prawn. The most common and 

cheapest way of eating sushi is by finding a 

kaiten-zushi bar. Here you sit at the counter and 

chose your dishes from the revolving conveyor 

belt – prices are indicated by the colour of the 

plate and range from around a £1 to over £5, 

depending on the cut and grade of the fish. 

You can also ask the chef to prepare a favourite 

dish or, if you are not sure what to choose, 

you can ask for a sushi moriawase (a mixed set). 

Sashimi is simply raw fish served without rice 

and is often used as an appetiser for main meals. 

Both sushi and sashimi are served with shouyu 

(soy sauce) for dipping, wasabi paste and slices 

of pickled gari (ginger). 

Tempura 

Tempura is the general name for any vegetable, 

portion of fish or prawn fried in a light, crispy 

batter. Tempura is usually served in a 

lacquerware box with dipping sauce and grated 

daikon (white radish) or tempura salt, and 

comes with rice and crunchy pickles. 

Yakiniku 

Yakiniku or ‘Korean barbeque’ as it is also known 

is a sociable dining experience. Various cuts of 

beef including rump, tongue, stomach and fillets 

are dipped in a rich dark sauce and cooked at 

your table (by you) on a small grill. Originating 

in Korea, the meat dishes can be accompanied 

by kimchi – spicy Korean pickles – and bibinba, 

which is a tasty and healthy Korean rice dish 

cooked quickly to lock in freshness, often served 

in sizzling stone bowls so hot that they actually 

cook the ingredients in front of you. 

Ramen 

Now a common feature on the Japanese 

menu, ramen is Chinese in origin. There are 

countless variations, especially regionally, but 

the basic concept of ramen is a bowl of noodles 

in a flavoured broth (most commonly miso 

paste or soy sauce) topped with vegetables and 

meat, usually pork. Ramen is best accompanied 

by delicious gyoza – steamed or grilled 

Chinese dumplings stuffed with vegetables 

and pork or prawn. 

Okonomiyaki 

Okonomiyaki is a quick lunch option cooked 

on an iron plate, and is often called a Japanese 

pancake. A variety of ingredients including 

batter, cabbage, pork, prawns and egg are 

squashed together to form a flat, filled patty and 

then served with a rich sauce and mayonnaise. 

Kaiseki 

Perhaps the most elegant and esteemed meal in 

Japan, kaiseki ryori originates from Kyoto and is 

the original accompaniment to a tea ceremony. 

It now consists of many light courses of a range 

of delicacies, chosen for their seasonality and 

freshness. Presentation is highly important when 

serving kaiseki dishes. Prices range from a 

reasonable £25-30 per person to in excess of 

£200 a head, depending on the quality and size 

of meal you choose. 

Japanese pub 

An izakaya is the Japanese version of a pub and 

serves a wide selection of casual dining options, 

both Japanese and western, along with lots of 

beer and sake. Izakaya restaurants are great fun, 

good value and easy to spot – outside, they will 

often have red lanterns bearing the name of the 

restaurant and extensive picture menus, and 

there will be plenty of noise coming from within. 

Okonomiyaki ‘pankakes’ 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Food 21

Northern Japan 

N 

orthern Japan is known for its natural 

and scenic beauty, abundant hot 

spring bathing, countless local festivals and 

in the winter months, excellent wintersports 

opportunities. The climate here is cooler than 

in the rest of Japan, offering an escape from 

the sweltering summer days on mainland 

and southern Japan and a breath of fresh air 

in the numerous national parks. The far 

northern region of Honshu is known as 

Tohoku, an area that the Japanese equate 

with a slower, more traditional way of life. 

Amongst Tohoku’s highlights are numerous 

scenic lakes best seen against the spectacular 

backdrop of the changing autumn leaves, hot 

spring resorts, vibrant summer festivals and 

remote Buddhist temples. Hokkaido, Japan’s 

northernmost island, has the country’s 

highest concentration of national parks and 

wide roads ideal for self-drive itineraries. 

Summer in Hokkaido brings with it ample 

opportunity for walking and the chance to 

take in some of the spectacular flora of the 

island. In winter some of the world’s best 

powder snow can be experienced at the resorts 

of Niseko and Furano, and rare birdlife 

spotted along coastlines and in the wetlands. 

22

Audley in Northern Japan 

2 

3 

2 

1 

4 

5 

Northern Japan is far more off the beaten 

track than other parts of the country and for 

this reason we recommend that you explore 

by car. Our extensive, first-hand knowledge 

of the routes makes this an easy option, and 

enables you to delve into remote mountain 

and countryside regions, where the pace of 

life is slower and the scope of experience is 

vast. We can tailor your itinerary to include 

one of the festivals that northern Japan is 

famous for, or if you are a wildlife enthusiast 

plan your itinerary around the perfect spot 

from which to view rare birds. We can also 

provide ski guides should you be travelling 

during the winter months and are interested 

in taking part in some wintersports. 

1 Daisetsu-zan 

4 Bird-watching 

National Park 

The rugged scenery of the 

park makes for excellent 

The red-crested cranes perform 

spectacular mating rituals in the 

Kushiro during February. 

hiking opportunities. 

5 Wildlife 

2 Skiing 

Take to the slopes in Furano 

or Niseko on world-class 

powder snow. 

3 Sapporo’s Snow Festival 

In early February the city’s 

Odori-koen park is filled with 

giant ice sculptures. 

8 

7 

6 

Keep an eye out for brown 

bears and other native wildlife 

in Shiretoko. 

6 Matsushima Bay 

The stunning coastal scenery 

is best viewed from a sedate 

boat ride. 

Kanto festival, Akita 

7 Summer Festivals 

Soak up the feeling of 

community at Nebuta, Tanabata 

and Kanto festivals in Tohoku. 

8 Dewa-sanzan 

Climbing the three sacred peaks 

of Mounts Gas-san, Haguro-san 

and Yudono-san is a rewarding 

and unusual experience. 

Accommodation 

Accommodation in Northern Japan varies 

quite considerably. Around the national park 

and lake resorts you will find many examples 

of ryokan style hotels. These are large 

properties built mainly to cater for domestic 

tour groups. The hotels have both western 

and Japanese style rooms and although all 

are en suite, there are also shared bathing 

facilities known as ofuro which are used for 

relaxation in the evening. Dining is mostly on 

a half-board basis with a buffet selection for 

both breakfast and evening meals. The quality 

of the food is usually extremely good. 

Smaller boutique properties and intimate 

ryokan are harder to come by, although we 

have scoped out a few which we will be 

more than happy to introduce to you. 

Summit of Mt Gas-san, Dewa-sanzan 

Find out more 


information about travel in Northern Japan, 

please see page 27. 

☎ 








Lake Masshu-ko, Hokkaido 

Northern Japan 23

Daisetsu-zan National Park 

Sapporo & Hakodate 

Hokkaido’s capital Sapporo dates back only 

120 years, and this bright, cosmopolitan city, 

well-endowed with gardens and parks, makes the 

perfect base from which to head out and explore 

the island. In recent times it has played host to 

matches in the 2002 football World Cup and the 

1972 Winter Olympics, and each February the 

city welcomes the world to the wonderful 

Sapporo Snow Festival, an ice-sculpting 

extravaganza on an epic scale. Further south, 

separated from the mainland by the narrow 

Tsugaru Straits, is the charming port town of 

Hakodate. There is something of the feel of 

Nagasaki here, with the intriguing mixture of 

Japanese and Western architecture giving an 

unexpectedly international atmosphere. Take a 

cable-car at dusk to the summit of Mount 

Hakodate and watch as the sparkling lights of 

the town radiate out into the distance. 

Sapporo Snow Festival 

24 

Hokkaido’s National Parks 

Hokkaido is blessed with stunning natural scenery, 

carved by the elements and sculpted by ongoing 

volcanic activity. The island is dotted with national 

parks, from the picturesque caldera lakes of 

Shikotsu-Toya near Sapporo, home to active 

volcanoes, to the rugged wilderness of the 

bear-haunted Shiretoko Peninsula that juts out 

east into the cold Sea of Okhotsk. The centre of 

Hokkaido rises to the high peaks of Daisetsu-zan 

Hokkaido’s history 

Hokkaido’s history is long and, at times, 

dark. The island was not settled upon by 

mainlanders until the 1600s, when trade 

links were established by the ruling 

Shogunate clan. This offered the indigenous 

Ainu population a chance for wealth and 

commerce but was also ultimately their 

undoing; they were persecuted and forced 

out of their homelands, with some 

restrictions lasting until as late as the 1990s. 

During this time the Ainu were forced to 

learn Japanese, required to adopt Japanese 

names and ordered to cease religious 

practices such as animal sacrifice and the 

custom of tattooing. It was not until 2008 

that the Ainu were officially recognised as 

National Park, the largest and perhaps most 

beautiful region on the island. In summer this is 

wonderful walking country, with cable-cars 

offering easy access to summits carpeted with 

alpine flowers. For those with an interest in bird 

watching, winter brings an influx of rare and 

spectacular visitors. One of Japan’s national 

symbols, the red-crested crane, spends its winters 

at Kushiro Wetland National Park, while Akan 

National Park and the eastern regions host the 

magnificent Steller’s sea eagles. 

Sketch of Ainu men in traditional costume 

an indigenous group, resulting in better 

relations with the mainland and a renaissance 

of Ainu traditions. Several Ainu museums 

have been set up in Hokkaido giving visitors 

to the island a chance to better understand 

their history and customs.

Wintersports 

Some of the world’s best skiing and 

snowboarding and, in particular, powder 

snow are to be found in the ski resorts of 

Hakuba in Honshu and Niseko and Furano 

in Hokkaido. The ski season lasts from 

December until April, with guaranteed snow 

throughout. There are ski and snowboarding 

runs for all levels of experience, plus some 

off-piste and night skiing. Each resort has the 

usual range of alpine hotels, self-catering 

lodges and small family-run guesthouses, 

suitable for a variety of budgets. Skiing in 

Japan is relatively cheap in comparison with 

some of the top European and American 

destinations, and travelling with ski equipment 

is simple and cost-effective. Japan’s reliable 

public transport system means that travel 

between airports or train stations and resorts 

is quick and keeps costs to a minimum. 

Other key ski and snowboarding resorts in 

Japan include Shiga Kogen, which is one of 

the world’s largest ski centres, and Nozawa 

Onsen, both located in Nagano prefecture 

on Honshu island. One of the best things 

about skiing in Japan is that most 

accommodation has hot spring bathing 

facilities. Combined with steaming hot pot 

dinners made with the freshest ingredients, 

there really is no better form of apres-ski. 

Skiier, Niseko 

Winter crab nabe (hot pot) 

Winter bather, Hokkaido 

Sendai & Matsushima 

Tohoku’s largest and most cosmopolitan city, 

Sendai, is the ideal staging post for exploration of 

the region’s more southerly highlights. Beyond the 

annual spectacular of the August Tanabata 

Festival, the city has little to keep the visitor for 

long, but within easy reach are the picturesque 

pine-clad islands of Matsushima Bay, designated as 

one of Japan’s ‘three great sights’. A gentle boat 

trip here allows visitors to experience first-hand 

the magical scenery that is said to have struck 

dumb Japan’s foremost poet, Bassho. 

Dewa-sanzan 

Dewa-sanzan is the collective name for the three 

holy mountains of Haguro-san, Gas-san and 

Yudono-san. The mountains gained their holy 

status over 1,400 years ago after the son of the 

reigning emperor made a pilgrimage to the area 

to practice severe aesthetic religious exercises 

which later became the founding principles of 

Shugendo Buddhism. Shugendo is an ancient 

blend of esoteric Buddhism, Chinese Taoism 

and Shinto deity worship and is practiced by 

the Yamabushi mountain priests, who link their 

religious practices strongly with the nature of the 

mountains. The Yamabushi are easily recognisable 

thanks to their distinctive garb of checked 

overshirts, billowing white trousers, straw sandals 

and small, peaked hats. The monks are now 

scattered all over the three mountains and you 

will most likely catch a glimpse of one scurrying 

up the mountain or at one of the many temples 

in the area. Dewa-sanzan is best explored over a 

number of days as there are some strenuous 

climbs, but if your time is more limited, then we 

recommend a hike to the top of either Mount 

Haguro or Mount Gas-san, both of which are 

around two hour ascents. 

Lakes and hot springs 

Much of Tohoku was once volcanic, resulting 

today in a number of scenic lakes and countless 

natural onsen resorts. With a hire car it is easy to 

strike out to Lake Towada in the north, one of 

Honshu’s most scenic lakes. Towada is hugely 

popular with local visitors during the turning leaf 

koyo season from mid-October, when the beech 

and maple-clad hillsides of the Oirase Valley turn 

spectacular shades of gold and crimson. From 

there, travel south to secluded onsen such as 

Aoni and Nyuuto, and then on to Tazawako, 

Japan’s deepest lake. In winter this region lies 

beneath metres of snow, but the lake never 

freezes, thanks, according to local legend, to the 

fiery dragon that lives beneath its surface. 

TSURUNOYU, NYUUTO ONSEN 

The Tsurunoyu ryokan is the oldest and most 

authentic ryokan in the area. It is truly enchanting, 

serving traditional food consisting of local 

mountain vegetables and fish cooked over a small 

irori fire pit, and offering an excellent outdoor 

onsen. There are several baths at the Tsurunoyu, 

each fed by a different source of water. There is 

also a large outdoor mixed-sex bath, which you 

are welcome to try if you are brave enough, but 

please do observe local etiquette! See page 13 

for more information on Japanese customs. 

Ancient pagoda, Mount Haguro 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Northern Japan 25

Festivals 

Taiko drummers performing at a local festival 

Japan has an abundance of local festivals, 

known as matsuri, connected with shrines and 

temples throughout the country. Most are 

held annually on a particular set date or 

within a few days of this. They celebrate or 

commemorate a number of things, from 

seasonality or historic events to ancient 

legends and deities. Festivals are sociable and 

community-based events and more often 

than not are colourful, raucous and joyous. 

Mikoshi being paraded at Sanja Matsuri 

These lively affairs often involve a procession, 

whose participants carry a mikoshi – a special, 

decorated shrine containing the spirit of the 

local Shinto kami (gods) – through the streets. 

Many festivals also involve large, decorated 

floats, music and traditional dances. 

As the festivals are popular with domestic 

tourists, accommodation during some of 

the larger ones can be difficult to secure 

at late notice. 

Key festivals 

Yuki Matsuri (early February) 

Held every February in Sapporo, the capital 

city of Hokkaido, this week-long snow 

festival sees huge ice sculptures created 

along the Odori-koen park, ranging from near 

life-size imitations of feudal castles to kitsch 

replicas of cartoon favourites. The event is 

illuminated at night and is a spectacular sight 

from the TV tower at the end of the park’s 

main thoroughfare. 

Sanja Matsuri (16-21 May) 

The Sanja matsuri of Asakusa Shrine is one 

of the three biggest festivals in Tokyo, along 

with the Kanda Festival and Sanno Festival. 

It became very popular during the Edo 

period (1603-1868), and today involves the 

parading by residents of more than a hundred 

mikoshi around the crowded streets near 

Asakusa Shrine. 

Nebuta Matsuri, Aomori 

Nebuta Matsuri (early August) 

The Nebuta Matsuri is held in Aomori and 

attracts more than three million visitors each 

year. Legend has it that in the 9th century AD, 

General Tamuramaro subjugated his enemies’ 

armies by frightening them with huge lanterns, 

replicas of which are now carried through the 

streets on festival evenings. This is definitely a 

festival to find yourself caught up in and 

carried away by. 

Jidai Matsuri (22 October) 

Kyoto’s Jidai Matsuri (Festival of the Ages) 

dates back to 1895, and takes place to 

commemorate Kyoto becoming the capital of 

Japan in 794 AD. The focal point is the Jidai 

Gyoretsu procession, which features a parade 

of splendid traditional costumes. At the front, 

participants wear the local dress of 1868 

(the year that the capital was transferred to 

Tokyo) with the costumes behind going 

progressively back in time until the Heian 

period (6th Century AD). 

26










Telephone: 01993 838 210 

Daisetsu-zan 

National Park 

Sapporo 

Asahidake 

Shiretoko 

Akan 

National 

Park 

Kushiro 

Lake Towada 

Kakunodate 

Dewa-sanzan 

Niigata 

Nikko 

Nyuuto Onsen 

Matsushima 


Although much of Tohoku and Hokkaido are 

accessible by public transport, we recommend 

hiring a car as this provides more freedom and 

flexibility and the chance to experience sights not 

easily reached by bus or train. With most road 

signs in both Japanese and English, satellite 

navigation equipment provided in all vehicles 

and driving also on the left, car hire is a very 

achievable option. 

When to go 


~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ~ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ 





Northern Japan can be visited year round 

although do be prepared for heavy snow fall and 

low temperatures in the winter months of 

December through to April. The summer brings 

with it a slightly cooler climate than southern 

Japan and in autumn the temperature begins to 

drop but it is none-the-less a pleasant time to 

travel due the spectacular autumn leaves. 



Prices 





Stay longer 

In early August be sure to add on time in 

Aomori, near Lake Towada and Akita, to see the 

vibrant Nebuta and Kanto festivals, real highlights 

of the Tohoku region. Alternatively in August the 

small island of Sado plays host to the Earth 

festival, an international music and performing arts 

event hosted by the world renowned Kodo taiko 

drumming troupe. 

Wild Hokkaido 

For those seeking out the wilder side of japan, this 

comprehensive self-drive tour explores Hokkaido’s 

splendid national parks and modern thriving cities. 

Hike in the high mountains of Daisetsu-zan, watch 

out for bears along the Shiretoko Peninsula, and 

savour the wide, open spaces. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Day 11 

Day 12 

Day 13 

Day 14 

Day 15 



Tokyo 


Take the short flight to Kushiro in 

eastern Hokkaido. Drive to the Akan 

National Park, via the Wetlands. 

Explore Lake Akan by boat to enjoy 

the lake and mountain scenery. 

Drive north-easterly to the 

Shiretoko Peninsula. 

Explore Shiretoko and surroundings. 

Take a boat trip along the peninsula, 

hike in the woods or simply drive 

along open roads. 

Drive from Shiretoko to the 

Daisetsu-zan National Park. 

Spend the night in the small town 

of Sounkyo. 

After a morning exploring Sounkyo 

drive to Asahidake, at the foot of 

Mount Asahidake. 

Walk around Mount Asahidake. 

Visit the pretty town of Biei by car, 

returning to Asahidake in the 

afternoon. 

Drive to Sapporo and explore this 

cosmopolitan city in the afternoon. 

Explore Sapporo further, including 

the historical village of Hokkaido. 

Fly back to Tokyo and then spend 

the final afternoon at leisure. 

Fly back to the UK, arriving the 

same day. 

Tohoku Discovered 

This fascinating itinerary offers the chance to 

escape the crowds and explore a magical area of 

Japan rarely seen by overseas visitors. This region 

blends ancient culture and spectacular scenery. 

Travel by train and rental car to explore the clear 

lakes, deep forests and secluded inns of Japan’s 

best kept secret. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Day 11 

Day 12 

Day 13 

Day 14 

Day 15 



Tokyo 


Take the train out to Nikko and visit 

the Toshogu Shrine complex. 

Explore Lake Chuzenji and the 

Kegon Falls. 

Take the bullet train to Matsushima 

and then cruise on the beautiful bay. 

Travel by bullet train to Hachinohe. 

Drive on to Lake Towada. 

Explore Lake Towada and the 

Oirase Gorge. 

Drive from Lake Towada to the rural 

Nyuuto Onsen hot spring resort. 

Relax at Nyuuto in the morning then 

drive to Kakunodate via the crystal 

clear Lake Tazawa. 

Explore Kakunodate’s samurai district 

and then drive to the small town of 

Haguro, part of Dewa-sanzan. Spend 

the night in simple temple lodgings. 

Climb Mount Haguro’s 2,446 stone 

steps to the temple at the summit. 

Climb Mount Gas-san, a hike of 

around two to three hours, to be 

blessed at the summit by a 

Yamabushi Buddhist priest. 

Drive to the small town of Tsuruoka 

and then return by train to Tokyo. 

Fly back to the UK, arriving the 

same day. 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Northern Japan 27

Japan through the seasons 

Cherry blossom in Ueno Park, Tokyo 

Ask any Japanese person to tell you a few facts 

about their country and they will invariably 

mention the dramatic contrasts of their four 

seasons. There really is something very special 

about the changing of these, especially for those 

of us used to Britain’s less distinct ones. Japan is 

resplendent throughout the year, proudly 

showing off the changes in each passing season 

like a peacock fanning its feathers. Although 

each season has its draws, it is spring and the 

ephemeral cherry blossom that brings visitors 

flooding to Japan every year. 

Young girls in kimono during spring festival 

Rice farmer, Tohoku 

Spring 

There is a phrase in Japanese, sakura zensen, 

meaning cherry blossom front, which describes 

the blossom’s movement from the tip of the 

Okinawa in early February all the way to the 

most northerly cape of Hokkaido by the end of 

May. The peak viewing time in Kyoto and Tokyo 

is from the end of March through to the middle 

of April. To spend a lazy afternoon wandering 

through Tokyo’s Ueno Park or Kyoto’s 

Maruyama Park is to truly understand just how 

much, and why, the Japanese love this delicate 

and transient flower. Spring temperatures range 

from the decidedly chilly to warm and pleasant, 

with showers common throughout March 

and into April. 

Summer 

In the summer months of June, July and August, 

the air becomes stickier and heavy and the 

temperatures move steadily towards the upper 

twenties. Japan’s rainy season typically occurs in 

late June and July on the mainland and with it 

comes humidity of more than 80 percent, with 

temperatures nudging 40C on some days. 

Although not typically one of the most popular 

seasons for travel to Japan, there is something 

exotic about the Japanese summer months. 

This really feels like the Far East as one would 

expect it; the constant chirping of cicadas, the 

croaking of frogs from lush green paddy fields, 

and glorious sunshine. It is possible to escape 

the heat and humidity by heading for Japan’s 

mountains or coast, so you need not melt in 

the cities. 

Summer also brings with it a host of colourful 

local festivals, particularly in the cooler Tohoku 

region. The festivals are superb occasions to be 

a part of, passing in a whirl of dancing, music 

and beautiful traditional costumes. 

28

Autumn foliage at Daikozenji temple, Kyushu 

Autumn 

By September, temperatures start to cool but 

the sun continues to shine, making this a good 

time of year to visit. The subtle red and gold 

hues of the autumn colours start to appear in 

Hokkaido in late September and then travel 

south to Kyoto and Tokyo by mid November. 

Autumn is a glorious time to be in Japan as 

the countryside blazes with the fiery reds and 

dazzling oranges of the turning leaves of the 

indigenous momiji maple tree. The climate is 

temperate and dry and since the colours cover 

great swathes of the mainland there are plenty 

of opportunities to take in the beauty, either 

while hiking through the Japan Alps or strolling 

through the quiet back streets of Kyoto or on 

Miyajima Island. Walking a section of the 

Nakasendo Highway, the ancient road between 

Kyoto and Tokyo, at this time of year highlights 

the particularly beautiful woodland scenery of 

the Kiso Valley. 

Winter 

Winter in Hokkaido stretches from late 

October through to March and the Siberian 

fronts bring icy cold winds and heavy snowfall. 

On the mainland, the winter months are 

December, January and February, with snowfall 

in Tohoku and the Alps region but a relatively 

mild climate in Kyoto, Hiroshima, Shikoku and 

Kyushu islands. Crisp air, clear blue skies and dry 

weather mean that winter shouldn’t be a barrier 

to travel in Japan. Even in Hokkaido there is 

plenty to do during the coldest months, from 

birdwatching in Kushiro and Sapporo’s Snow 

festival in February to world-class skiing in 

Niseko and Furano until April or May. January 

sees the New Year, or O-shogatsu, the biggest 

holiday in the Japanese calendar; celebrating 

the coming of the new year with thousands 

of people at Tokyo’s Meiji Jingu shrine is a 

remarkable experience. From snowy castle 

landscapes and glittering lamp-lit shrines in the 

dark evenings to warm sake and piping hot 

bowls of ramen in bustling restaurants, Japan 

takes on a different, more excitable air in the 

winter. When it snows there really is nothing 

better than sitting in a rotemburo hot spring 

bath as the flakes land softly on your head 

and steam rises all around you. 

Snowy pagoda, Kyoto 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Seasons 29

Southern Japan 

T 

he southern islands of Japan have a 

predominantly relaxed atmosphere 

and rural landscape. Resting in the waters 

of the Inland Sea, Shikoku is home to classic 

gardens, countless temples and farming 

villages. Cross to the island by train from 

Okayama, board a boat through the 

archipelago from Hiroshima or take a bus 

across the world’s longest suspension bridge, 

to discover remote farm houses, ancient 

pilgrimages and classical culture. Kyushu 

is the southernmost of Japan’s four main 

islands, with a turbulent history matched 

by its seething volcanic terrain. During 

Japan’s long years of self-imposed isolation, 

this island was the only place in which 

contact with the outside world was 

permitted. Kyushu is an ideal location for 

scenic hikes and for visiting hot spring 

resorts. The islands further south that make 

up the Okinawa archipelago form a huge 

arc stretching from southern Kyushu almost 

as far as Taiwan, offering white sand 

beaches and an island lifestyle. The climate 

here is sub-tropical, offering the perfect 

break from it all at the end of your 

mainland Japan adventures. 

30

Audley in Southern Japan 

Awa Odori dancers, Tokushima 

1 

3 

6 7 

5 

2 

8 

As a trip to Japan’s southern islands is all 

about escaping the urbanisation of the 

mainland, we always recommend taking the 

time to explore a bit more off the beaten 

track here and we can create a trip that 

includes time on a white-sand beach, forays 

into the Shikoku heartland to visit one of 

the lesser known temples on the Pilgrimage 

Route, or even white-water rafting through a 

spectacular Kyushu gorge. We have first-hand 

knowledge of this region and can advise you 

which Okinawan islands would best suit you 

and how to combine time here with some 

of the highlights of central or northern Japan. 

Accommodation 

4 

As elsewhere in Japan we tend to pick 

accommodation options that will really 

enhance your experience of the country 

and although only a few have been 

mentioned here we can suggest a wide 

range of accommodation depending on your 

preferences. There are numerous ryokan in 

Kyushu and Shikoku that include local cuisine 

and hot spring bathing and the welcome 

here is always warm. In Okinawa there are 

certainly plenty of western style resort hotels 

with wide-ranging facilities on offer but we 

have searched a little further afield to find 

quaint guest lodges overlooking the coast – 

the perfect spot from which to watch a 

tropical sunset. 

1 

Yakushima Island 

3 

Kurokawa 

6 

Nagasaki 

The spectacular cedar trees and 

coastline of the UNESCO listed 

Yakushima make for great 

hiking oppotunities. 

2 Iya Valley 

For adventurous types there is 

white-water rafting or vine 

bridge walks in the Iya Valley. 

Relax in the onsen waters of 

this charming town. 

4 Beach time 

Relax on Ishigaki or Miyako 

Island’s sub-tropical beaches. 

5 Matsuyama 

Stop in at Matsuyama, home 

to one of Japan’s oldest hot 

spring resorts. 

Visit Nagasaki, with its World 

War II memorial and remnants 

of Dutch trading. 

7 Mount Aso 

Drive to the expansive caldera 

of Mount Aso, near Kumamoto. 

8 Temples 

Tick off some of Shikoku’s 88 

temple pilgrimages. 

Temple eaves, eastern Shikoku 

Find out more 


information about travel in Southern Japan, 

please see page 34. 

☎ 








Ishigaki beach, Okinawa 

Southern Japan 31

Areial view of Kirishima National Park 

North Kyushu 

Nagasaki is Kyushu’s best-known city, made 

infamous on 9th August 1945 as the site of the 

second atomic bomb. The understated Peace 

Park and museum are a likely point of interest for 

every visitor, but Nagasaki’s topography mercifully 

protected the city from being totally destroyed 

and today it is a vibrant, forward-looking place. 

The blend of western and Japanese architecture 

at the Glover Gardens and the foreign enclave of 

Dejima show what living conditions were like for 

those original Dutch residents, and the story of 

Nagasaki’s secret Christians displays a darker side 

of Japan. Travelling across Ariake Bay to 

Kumamoto brings you to one of the country’s 

finest castles, with its excellent museum and 

panoramic views. A short drive from here into 

Kyushu’s wild interior is the vast and stunning 

spread of the world’s largest caldera, with volcanic 

Nagasaki Peace Park 

32 

Mount Aso smouldering in the centre. To the 

north-east of the Aso-Kuju National Park, the hot 

spring resorts of Kurokawa and Yufuin offer a 

tranquil and relaxing break from sightseeing. 

OKONOYU RYOKAN, KUROKAWA 

The Okunoyu ryokan is located in the famous 

Kurokawa valley and receives its copious supply of 

geothermal waters from the active volcano Kuju, 

on which it sits. The ryokan is set in lush grounds, 

adjacent to the Kurokawa River. Just off the main 

street in Kurokawa, this ryokan’s surroundings 

make it one of the most attractive in the valley. 

Rooms are traditionally minimalist and the food 

is sumptuous ryokan cuisine. 

South Kyushu 

For those with an interest in Kyushu’s turbulent 

history, the warm and friendly city of Kagoshima 

is a good place to visit. Birthplace of the famous 

rebel Saigo Takamori, the city played a key role in 

the Meiji Restoration and the subsequent Satsuma 

Rebellion. Kagoshima boasts many historical sites 

and one of the best gardens in Kyushu at Suizenji. 

In the middle of the bay, Sakurajima, one of the 

world’s most active volcanoes, spews out smoke 

and ash with ominous frequency. Just an hour’s 

drive from the city brings you to the heart of 

Kirishima National Park, where you can hike 

through the inspiring scenery before relaxing in 

one of the many onsen resorts that dot the area. 

Entrance to the Okunoyu Ryokan 

Yakushima Island 

One-fifth of Yakushima island is registered as a 

UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are as 

many as six mountain peaks over 1,800 metres 

high, including Miyanoura-dake, which at 1,935 

metres above sea level is the highest mountain 

in Kyushu and what gives the island its alternative 

name of ‘Alps of the Ocean’ The island is said 

to have one of the world’s highest precipitation 

rates, with the heaviest rainfall in spring and 

summer. The main draw is the Shiratani Unsuikyo 

Ravine forest, which is home to the abundant 

Yaku-sugi cedar trees which gave the island its 

UNESCO listing in 1994. Some of the cedars are 

said to date back more than 5,000 years and have 

been given individual names, such as the oldest 

cedar, the Jomon-sugi.

Suizenji Gardens, Kumamoto 

Harvesting potatoes, Iya Valley 

Sunset over Ishigaki Island, Okinawa 

Eastern Shikoku 

Shikoku is home to some of the nation’s most 

atmospheric festivals, finest gardens and most 

picturesque coastal scenery. Each August, 

Tokushima’s Awa Odori Festival attracts over a 

million visitors and is home to the traditional 

Bunraku form of puppet theatre. Nearby 

Takamatsu boasts the splendid Ritsurin Gardens, 

and no more than an hour away by ferry, the 

world-class art museums and attractive coastal 

scenery of Naoshima Island can be enjoyed as a 

day trip. Many of the 88 famous temples that 

constitute Japan’s most celebrated Buddhist 

pilgrimage are located in the heart of eastern 

Shikoku and can nowadays be accessed by car, 

rather than the more arduous task of visiting 

them all on foot. Head further inland to the Iya 

Valley where breathtaking mountain scenery 

awaits, complete with ancient farmhouses, vine 

bridges crossing precipitous gorges, and some 

white-water rafting opportunities. 

Seto-Ohashi Bridge, crossing Inland Sea 

Western and Central Shikoku 

Shikoku’s largest city is Matsuyama, home to one 

of Japan’s finest castles, perched on a hilltop with 

excellent views and a stunning collection of 

samurai swords and armour. Nearby Dogo 

Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest spa towns, has 

beautiful public baths that date back to 1894. 

The craggy western coastline is dotted with 

quaint fishing villages full of friendly locals and 

delicious regional cuisine. Further south, Uwajima 

boasts a fertility shrine, unique in Japan. Kochi 

Prefecture in the south of the island was once 

the most rugged and cut-off part of Japan and it 

is here that many of the most hard to reach 

temples on the pilgrimage route are located, 

along with a fine original castle and a bustling 

Sunday market in the town of Kochi itself. 

TSUBAKI-KAN DOGO ONSEN, 

MATSUYAMA 

This ryokan style hotel retains elements of 

traditional Japanese accommodation such as 

kaiseki dining, traditional breakfasts and futon 

mattress sleeping arrangements, but also has 

many convenient western amenities. Being located 

in the centre of the Dogo Onsen area the baths 

at the hotel are excellent and truly relaxing. 

Aside from the hotel facilities there is a fascinating 

taiko drum show in the lobby on most evenings 

which is extremely entertaining to watch. 

Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama 

Okinawa 

Naha and the southern end of Okinawa Honto 

(the main island) make a good base from which 

to start your time in the Okinawan island chain. 

The area directly surrounding Naha has some 

good nightlife, as well as Shurijo Castle, attractive 

gardens and plenty to keep children occupied. 

Many of the resort hotels have excellent 

beaches with extensive facilities, and to the 

north of the island you’ll find more rugged 

scenery and a first-class aquarium. A short journey 

from Naha are the semi-tropical islands of Ishigaki, 

Miyako and Kurume, offering white sand beaches, 

diving and snorkelling, coral reefs, jungle walks and 

various other resort activities. Overseas visitors to 

these islands are still few and far between, making 

travel here a little more challenging for non- 

Japanese speakers but allowing you to experience 

true Japanese style relaxation. 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Southern Japan 33










Nagasaki 

Kumamoto 

Kurokawa 

Tokyo 

Matsuyama 

Iya Valley 

Takamatsu 

Tokushima 

Osaka 

Telephone: 01993 838 210 


Kagoshima 

Kirishima National Park 

Kyushu is accessed from Honshu by air or rail. 

Flights operate from Tokyo or Osaka and other 

regional airports to several destinations on the 

island, and are about an hour’s duration. The 

bullet train runs as far south as Kagoshima, so it 

makes sense to pick up a hire car here to explore 

the national parks and hot springs. The island of 

Shikoku is best accessed by bus from Osaka, train 

from Okayama or ferry from Hiroshima. There 

are also flights from Tokyo and Osaka and other 

regional airports. Once in Shikoku a hire car is 

most useful, although not always necessary, 

particularly in eastern Shikoku as trains and buses 

run efficiently between locations. Flights to 

Okinawa’s Naha airport on the main island depart 

from Tokyo and Osaka. There are also direct 

flights from Tokyo to Miyako and Ishigaki islands, 

but you may need to connect to a flight from 

Naha, depending on the schedules. Ferries run 

from Naha to the islands of Tokashiki, Kume and 

Zamami and can be visited as a day trip from the 

main island. Once on your designated Okinawan 

island a hire car may be beneficial if you are 

planning to explore beyond the beaches. 

When to go 


~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ~ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ 





The weather in southern Japan tends to be 

warmer than that of central and northern Japan, 

particularly in Okinawa. Temperatures here vary 

from 18-30C with showers and typhoons 

common throughout August, September and 

October. In Kyushu and Shikoku spring and 

autumn are typically the best times of year to visit. 



Prices 





Kyushu Explorer 

This rail and self-drive trip discovers the variety 

of Japan showcased in this little-visited island, 

from the cosmopolitan cities of Nagasaki and 

Kumamoto, the splendid walking routes and 

abundant nature of the Kirishima National Park, 

the vast caldera of Mount Aso and the volcanic 

hot spring waters of Kurokawa. An itinerary perfect 

for those looking to strike out into nature and 

finish off with a relaxing dip in pure onsen waters. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Day 11 

Day 12 

Day 13 


Arrive in Tokyo and transfer to your 

city centre hotel. 


Transfer to the airport and fly south 

to Nagasaki. Explore the city, 

including the moving Peace Park. 

Travel to Kumamoto via the 

religiously historic town of Unzen. 

Pick up your hire car and drive out 

to the spectacular Aso Caldera. 

Drive south to Kagoshima and 

explore the town’s gardens and other 

sights in the afternoon. 

Visit the active Sakurajima volcano in 

the morning and then drive on to the 

Kirishima National Park. 

Walk, hike or simply relax in the 

Kirishima area. 

Drive from Kirishima to 

Kurokawa Onsen, via the scenic 

Takachiho Gorge. 

Relax in any of the many hot springs 

of Kurokawa. 

Drive to Fukuoka and then return 

to Tokyo by bullet train. 

Return to the airport and fly back to 

the UK, arriving back the same day. 

Stay longer 

To extend your trip we recommend that from 

Kagoshima you drive and take the ferry across to 

the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Yakushima 

to see beautiful coastlines and magnificent, 

towering cedar trees. 

Japan’s Hidden Island 

Shikoku may be a small island but offers a wealth 

of sightseeing opportunities. Combine vibrant city 

life with rural, off the beaten track wilderness and 

adventure. Starting in the east, Shikoku is accessed 

by road over the world’s longest suspension bridge 

and you take in the towns of Takamatsu and 

Tokushima before visiting the quiet Iya Valley and 

finishing in the hot spring town of Matsuyama. 

Day 1 

Day 2 

Day 3 

Day 4 

Day 5 

Day 6 

Day 7 

Day 8 

Day 9 

Day 10 

Day 11 

Day 12 


Arrive in Tokyo and connect to a 

domestic flight to Osaka. Transfer to 

your central hotel. 

Take a public bus to Tokushima, 

across the world’s longest 

suspension bridge. 

Explore Tokushima, including the 

Bunraku puppet theatre. 

Take the train from Tokushima 

to Takamatsu and explore the 

town, including the pleasant 

Ritsurin gardens. 

Take the ferry across to Naoshima 

Island to visit the Benesse House 

museum and art site. 

Pick up your hire car and drive to 

the secluded Iya Valley in the heart 

of Shikoku. 

Explore the area and perhaps 

try some white water rafting in 

the afternoon. 

Take the train to Matsuyama, on the 

west of the island. 

Explore Matsuyama, including 

the castle and the Dogo 

Onsen hot spring. 

Take the train to Okayama, back 

on Honshu Island and explore 

the excellent Kourakuen garden. 

Continue on to Tokyo in 

the afternoon. 

Transfer to the airport for the flight 

back to the UK, arriving back the 

same day. 

34

Useful information 

Tohoku autumn colours Musicians at Gion festival, Kyoto Little girl at 7-5-3 festival, Kyoto 

Group tours 

We offer a comprehensive programme of 

guided small group tours, typically no more than 

16 travellers. Not only does this make for a 

much more sociable group but it also enables 

us to use smaller and more characterful 

accommodation and venture away from the 

large tour groups. We offer regular tours to 

Japan which have become very popular and are 

an alternative to a tailor-made itinerary. 

www.audleytravel.com/groups 

We can also arrange private tours, whether this 

is for a group of friends, those with a special 

interest or a fundraising trip for charity. For larger 

groups we may be able to offer discounts or a 

free place to the organiser. See our website or 

call us to discuss your plans. 

Honeymoons 

Honeymoons to Japan are increasingly popular, 

especially for couples looking to combine culture 

and relaxation. Although quite an active 

destination to visit, Japan’s wealth of luxury and 

traditional accommodation, private hot spring 

bathing, quiet beach resorts, wonderful cuisine 

and privately guided excursions all make for the 

perfect honeymoon destination. 

Responsible travel 

We’re passionate about travel but also deeply 

aware of the responsibility we have to the people 

and places we visit. We believe that a visit from 

an Audley traveller should have a positive impact 

on the destination and, wherever possible, bring 

real benefits. We always endeavour to use 

locally owned hotels, work with local guides 

and operators, and promote community and 

wildlife projects. Our Traveller’s Code offers tips 

and advice you can use to ensure your trip does 

not threaten the sustainability of the places you 

visit. We carbon offset all our staff flights and 

you can choose to do the same, please speak 

to your specialist about this or follow the link 

on our website www.audleytravel.com/offset. 

Our commitment to responsible travel has been 

audited by AITO (Association of Independent 

Tour Operators) and we have been awarded 

five stars, the maximum achievable. We also 

support a variety of social and environmental 

charities and projects around the world. 

For more information about travelling responsibly 

and the charities and projects we support please 

visit www.audleytravel.com/rt 

Flights 

A number of airlines fly directly to Japan from 

London Heathrow. We choose from these 

airlines based on current airfares and taxes, 

your preference for travel and your itinerary. 

Connecting flights from regional UK airports can 

also be arranged. There are also several airlines 

which fly indirectly to both Tokyo Narita and 

Kansai (near to Osaka) international airports and 

one of these may be the more convenient option 

for your travels. 

Terms & Conditions and 

Travel Insurance 

Your booking is subject to the Terms and 

Conditions of Audley Travel, which we will 

include with your personalised itinerary and can 

also be found on our website. It is vital that you 

have adequate travel insurance and we are able 

to suggest a number of policies either for the 

duration of your trip or on an annual basis. 

AITO Membership 

Audley is a member of the Association 

of Independent Tour Operators. The 

Association represents Britain’s leading 

independent tour operators and encourages high 

standards of quality and service. Audley abides 

by the Association’s Code of Conduct and 

adheres to the AITO Quality Charter which can 

be viewed on www.aito.com. Visit the website 

to find out more about the Association or call 

020 8744 9280. 

Photography in this brochure 

We would like to thank the following photographers 

for the images used in this brochure: 

Jamie Marshall, Bill Hobdell, Steve Allen, Japan 

National Tourism Organisation, Women’s 

Association of Kyoto, Travel Picture Gallery, The 

Peninsula Hotel, Okinawa Convention & Visitors 

Bureau, Lonely Planet Images, AWL Images, 

Tips Images, iStockphoto, Alamy, and members 

of the Audley Japan team. Front cover photo: 

Kenneth Hamm / Photo Japan. 

All images used in this brochure were obtained 

in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited 

and in the belief that all necessary consents and 

clearances were obtained for their use. However, 

if you believe that unauthorised use has been 

made of an image belonging to you please 

contact us on 01993 838 040. 

Visit our offices 

If you would like to discuss your 

travel arrangements in person we 

welcome personal visits, please call 

in advance to arrange an 

appointment with one or more of 

our country specialists. Our offices 

are at the New Mill, a 17th-century 

converted wool mill on the outskirts 

of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford, 

on the edge of the Cotswolds. 

www.audleytravel.com/visit-us 


Our website is packed with 

information, features and advice 

covering all our destinations 

across the globe. On the site you can 

browse by theme, special interest or region 

as well as viewing additional 

accommodation options and itineraries that 

are not featured in this brochure. You can 

download all our brochures online or 

contact us via the website where there is 

the option to tell us about your plans so 

that we can start tailoring your itinerary. 

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Useful information 35

New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom 

Telephone: 01993 838 210 • Fax: 01993 838 010 

Email: japan@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com 

This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forestry Stewardship Council, using vegetable inks. 

Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC environmental accreditations. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.

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