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Brand Failures

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Rebranding failures 211<br />

style that had made the brand so strong originally. For instance, Hilfiger<br />

launched a ‘Red Label’ sub-brand aimed at the very top of the market. This<br />

logoless range included such garments as US $7,000 patchwork, python-skin<br />

trousers. Clearly these items were out of the reach of the average Tommy<br />

Hilfiger customer. Another bad move was the decision to place stores in<br />

locations such as London’s Bond Street and Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive. ‘The<br />

London flagship store wasn’t open for a year when we realised we had made<br />

a mistake,’ he said in the New York magazine interview. ‘And the average age<br />

on Rodeo Drive is probably 50 years old. My customers are much younger<br />

than that. We thought all the cool people in LA come to Rodeo. But they<br />

don’t.’<br />

Since 2001 though, Tommy Hilfiger has been learning from his mistakes<br />

and going back to basics. ‘As a result of learning from our errors, we went<br />

back to our roots: classics with a twist. We’re about colour, we’re about<br />

preppy, we’re about classic, we’re about America!’ And as a result of this<br />

turnaround, customers and investors alike are again comfortable with the<br />

Tommy Hilfiger brand. ‘It will never again be the hot, sexy, overly talkedabout,<br />

flashy, zippy, fast-growing company it was, but it will be a damn nice<br />

company with lots of cash,’ observed one Wall Street analyst at the time of<br />

the turnaround. ‘What you’ve got now is a company that went from an A-<br />

plus to an F-minus. And now it’s going back to a B. And it’s a hell of a business<br />

as a B.’<br />

Lessons from Tommy Hilfiger<br />

Don’t deviate from your formula. Known as the brand which produces<br />

‘classic with a twist’, Hilfiger concentrated too much on the ‘twist’ and not<br />

enough on the ‘classic’.<br />

Don’t compete with irrelevant rivals. Tommy Hilfiger attempting to<br />

compete with successful European high fashion brands such as Gucci and<br />

Prada on their own terms was a mistake which even Hilfiger himself has<br />

acknowledged.<br />

Don’t over-extend the brand. During its bad patch, Tommy Hilfiger moved<br />

into a lot of new product categories for which it wasn’t suited.<br />

Don’t be scared of your logo. The logo is what made Tommy Hilfiger the<br />

brand it is today. In fact, the Tommy Hilfiger brand is pure logo. When<br />

the logo disappeared or was toned down, the brand ran into trouble.

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