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download complete sarajevo pdf - Spike Art Quarterly

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What is the best time to visit Sarajevo Many people will say August,<br />

during the Sarajevo Film Festival, while others will choose the fall<br />

season, when MESS, an international theatre festival, and the Jazz<br />

Festival take place. The rest might select wintertime and enjoy the<br />

opportunities for winter sports. After all, Sarajevo, which is surrounded<br />

by lovely mountains, was the host of the 1984 Olympic<br />

winter games.<br />

Whether you reach the city overland by bus or train, of if you<br />

land at Butmir International Airport, you will notice the remnants<br />

of the past war and the nearly four year siege between 1992 and<br />

1996: some of the reconstructed houses still have bullet holes and<br />

scorch marks on their faćades. The first interesting experience you<br />

might get is on your way to the city centre. The taxi drivers in Sarajevo<br />

are known to gossip a lot, and they always have anecdotes that<br />

they like to share. On the main road into the city you can see how<br />

Sarajevo looks today, with post-war urbanization and the so called<br />

»symbols of transition«: shopping centres almost every kilometre,<br />

new uniform buildings that oppose previous Modern architecture<br />

with an uncreative use of glass and concrete, while downtown the<br />

Ottoman period architecture joins together with the Austro-Hungarian.<br />

The progress of Austro-Hungarian city planning strengthened<br />

the atmosphere of modern Europeanism in Sarajevo. Parallel<br />

to the Vienna Secession movement, local architects such as<br />

Ludwig Huber, Josip Vancaš, Josip Pospišil and Rudolf Tönnies<br />

used Secession elements in their works; geometric forms are especially<br />

visible on many buildings.<br />

Today Sarajevo seems to have conquered its war trauma. There<br />

is a strong sense that people have decided to move on and avoid<br />

perpetuating the image of Sarajevo as the »city of the siege«. Its<br />

rich tradition is intermingled with the lively ferment of new ideas,<br />

a place of warm and welcoming people. When a visitor asks a local<br />

for directions or information, instead of a short answer he/she will<br />

get a pleasant chat or even a drink invitation.<br />

Sarajevo natives always say that you can’t be hungry or thirsty<br />

in this city. In the centre, the choice of restaurants, grills, and typical<br />

Bosnian restaurants called »aščinica«, »buregdžinica« and »ćevabdžinica«,<br />

where Bosnian dishes are served, is ample for every<br />

age, taste, and budget. National cuisine includes a variety of dishes<br />

with meat and vegetables, including Sarma (cabbage rolls stuffed<br />

with meat), Bosanski lonac (goulash with two kinds of meat and<br />

vegetables) or Klepe (Bosnian ravioli). You can find these Bosnian<br />

delicacies at famous places in the old town, which is called<br />

Baščaršija, a former trade and business centre from the Sarajevo<br />

Ottoman period. The most popular spirit is rakija, made of various<br />

fruits. Be advised: don’t try competing with locals in drinking<br />

Sarajevo<br />

natives say<br />

that you<br />

can’t be<br />

hungry or<br />

thirsty in<br />

this city<br />

201<br />

Sarajevo<br />

SPIKE ART GUIDE EAST 01 — 2009<br />

Sarajevo

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