The Back Bar - Tales of the Cocktail
The Back Bar - Tales of the Cocktail
The Back Bar - Tales of the Cocktail
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Home > Features > <strong>The</strong> <strong>Back</strong> <strong>Bar</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>Back</strong> <strong>Bar</strong><br />
By Naren Young on 1/23/2012<br />
I’m sitting in <strong>the</strong> awkwardly<br />
silent confines <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Columbia<br />
Room, <strong>the</strong> wonderful Zen-like<br />
bar from Washington’s favorite<br />
son (well, at least in a bartending<br />
capacity), Derek Brown. It’s a<br />
tiny shoebox <strong>of</strong> a room, taking<br />
its inspiration quite clearly from<br />
<strong>the</strong> bar model seen in thousands<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice buildings throughout<br />
Japan, where space is at a<br />
premium and <strong>the</strong>se tiny hidden<br />
cocktail havens have become <strong>the</strong><br />
stuff <strong>of</strong> legend; a reason for pilgrimage, a place <strong>of</strong> reflection, a cocoon <strong>of</strong> civilized<br />
anonymity. Cue <strong>the</strong> ‘Like’ button.<br />
What I’m most inspired by, at least for this article, is Brown’s tiny selection <strong>of</strong> spirits,<br />
liqueurs and o<strong>the</strong>r strange elixirs that grace his back bar. I continued to peruse, struck by<br />
<strong>the</strong> stark nature <strong>of</strong> its composition, perhaps executed to fit in with <strong>the</strong> simplicity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
room. It was, and is, <strong>the</strong> very reason I am writing this. It took me back to ano<strong>the</strong>r time<br />
and place when I used to man a bar in Sydney called <strong>the</strong> Bayswater Brasserie. We were<br />
known for many things, but perhaps <strong>of</strong> most significance was our immense and<br />
intimidating back bar, which had about 400 bottles proudly displayed. Clearly <strong>the</strong><br />
opposite modus operandi than Brown’s.<br />
While I figured I had a justifiable reason why each <strong>of</strong> those bottles deserved to be <strong>the</strong>re,<br />
did I really need those 20 vodkas Of course not, in hindsight. Did I need a crème de<br />
cassis, a crème de mure and a cherry liqueur Probably not. But <strong>the</strong> industry and indeed<br />
people change, like I have. While I still love seeing a beautifully vast and curated<br />
selection <strong>of</strong> hooch, I am part <strong>of</strong> a select group <strong>of</strong> people known as <strong>the</strong> bar community that<br />
(should) know a lot more about those spirits than <strong>the</strong> Joe Public. Bigger is not always<br />
better.
What I’ve come to appreciate even more now though, is those proprietors (like Derek<br />
Brown) who have chosen a different path; one that promotes a very thoughtful process in<br />
choosing what <strong>the</strong>y stock in <strong>the</strong>ir bar. Do <strong>the</strong>ir drinks suffer because <strong>of</strong> this Of course<br />
not (<strong>the</strong> drinks are mind numbingly good here, for <strong>the</strong> record). Compiling, or culling as it<br />
were, a list <strong>of</strong> spirits that is small, thoughtful and interesting is a far more difficult<br />
proposition than simply stacking your bar with hundreds <strong>of</strong> bottles, many <strong>of</strong> which will<br />
rarely be used and possibly even confuse both <strong>the</strong> clientele and <strong>the</strong> staff.<br />
I spoke to Derek about his philosophy and here’s what he had to say:<br />
“Our philosophy is strong, traditional spirits. We love gin, genever, rye, bourbon, aquavit,<br />
mezcal, which may mirror a general trend in cocktail bars, but <strong>the</strong>n that's <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong><br />
what we carry. <strong>The</strong>re are no s<strong>of</strong>tballs or spirits we have to carry. It may seem<br />
counterintuitive to service but we believe our guests seek out such a small enclave partly<br />
because <strong>the</strong>y want something different and a touch <strong>of</strong> ‘wow.’ We just can't wow <strong>the</strong>m<br />
with Captain Morgan’s or Belvedere. <strong>The</strong>re's no adventure in that.<br />
“On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, we do very extensive tastings. Settling on what gin or rye is not just<br />
what's our favorite, but what works in cocktails. Old Weller Antique is a perfect example.<br />
Boozy, but with a lot <strong>of</strong> confectionary notes. It's not something I sip on <strong>the</strong> rocks, but<br />
<strong>the</strong>n it's perfect in something like <strong>the</strong> Fancy Free with bourbon, maraschino, sugar,<br />
aromatic & orange bitters.”<br />
No matter <strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> your back bar or spirits inventory, <strong>the</strong> focus should always, always<br />
be on quality product and having a balanced selection. <strong>The</strong>re’s no point in boasting a<br />
mammoth Tequila selection when your house pour is Montezuma or some o<strong>the</strong>r crappy<br />
mixto. If you only carry three or four gins, do <strong>the</strong>y all vary in flavor pr<strong>of</strong>ile Is <strong>the</strong>re<br />
something classic and juniper forward such as Tanqueray, Beefeater, Junipero or<br />
Gordon’s Is <strong>the</strong>re something s<strong>of</strong>ter and more aromatic like Hendrick’s, Tanqueray 10,<br />
Brooklyn or Spring 44 I could go on and on but you get <strong>the</strong> picture.<br />
Having a great back bar is not about boasting a selection <strong>of</strong> spirits and liqueurs no one<br />
has heard <strong>of</strong>, with catchy marketing terms like ‘boutique’, ‘small batch’, ‘handmade’,<br />
‘artisanal’ or my personal favorite, ‘super premium.’ Just because a spirit has one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
words on <strong>the</strong> bottle, or you choose to support local distilleries (which I completely<br />
condone), doesn’t mean <strong>the</strong>y’re any good.<br />
Too <strong>of</strong>ten I walk into a bar and see a wonderful selection <strong>of</strong> amaros that aren’t available<br />
in this country, contraband Tequilas smuggled in from Mexico, barrel aged genevers,<br />
absin<strong>the</strong>s distilled in a barn down <strong>the</strong> road and rare Scandinavian aquavits only to be let<br />
down by having a poor quality pisco, or cachaca, or a slew <strong>of</strong> flavored vodkas. If you’re<br />
going to pr<strong>of</strong>ess to being a great bar, <strong>the</strong>n take a good look at everything you stock.<br />
Everything.<br />
Look over every single product on your back bar and ask yourself:
‘Do I actually need this product’<br />
‘What is <strong>the</strong> reason I have this product on my bar’<br />
‘Is this <strong>the</strong> best product in its category that I can afford’<br />
‘Am I (and my staff) equipped with <strong>the</strong> knowledge to sell it’<br />
‘Do I know <strong>the</strong> best way to serve this product’<br />
‘Does it taste any good’<br />
http://www.shakestir.com/features/id/197/<strong>the</strong>-back-bar