RBT-5 - 1/72 scale Rockets, Missiles, Drones and RPVs

The BT-5 tank
Fit was acceptable for the majority but I still had to fiddle with some areas to get a good fit. For
example the meeting point where the parts for the sides, bottom and glacis plate (part 18B) all
meet needed some sanding and scraping to get a good fit. Since I use methylene chloride (MEC)
for gluing I was able to hold the pieces in place with my fingers as they dried since the joins
were dry within seconds.
The two sidewalls are made up of two pieces each (parts 91B & 21B, and 20B & 22B). There is
supposed to be a small edge for the hull top to slot into but this was not the case and I had to cut
approximately 1mm off the edge to allow the top hull part (part 53B) to fit between the two side
pieces and lay flush. This lack of a slot did not become evident until after I had glued the two
sides to the hull bottom (part 15B) so I had to do my cut very carefully after the fact with my
razor saw.
Tracks are of the link and length variety. I constructed my tracks in two runs per side – a top run
and a bottom run. The track pieces were a bit delicate and I did manage to break one of them
during construction.
Step 9 of the instructions shows the construction sequence for the track links. Each of the links
has a three or four notch end, with the three notch pieces slotting into the four notch pieces. I test
fit the runs I planned on building before actually gluing them together. I found that the
instructions were slightly off in their sequence. The long bottom run should have the 3 notch end
facing to the front of the tank. The instructions show a four notch end and if you follow the
progression of notched ends around the wheels, if you have the four notch end facing forward
you will get a four notch to four notch join which doesn’t work.
I also found that I needed one less link for the track links that wrap around the idler wheel at the
front.
The fenders were to close to the idler wheel at the front of the tank and prevented the track
pieces from going between them. I was forced to remove the fenders which I had already glued
in place. The resultant sanding to remove the scars in the plastic also removed the majority of the
bolt detail.
Another oddity was the turret. The bottom (part 46D) has a small circular disc surrounding the
locating peg for the turret and hull. This disc doesn’t fit into the tiny hole and leaves the turret sit
a bit proud of the hull, leaving a small gap between the hull and the turret that allows light
through. I found this rather odd and opened up the hole in the hull so that the turret fit flush to
the hull. Why UM did this I have no idea but it just makes for another niggly item that has to be
done to make this kit look better.
Photo-etched parts are nicely done. It was quite easy to bend the engine cover to shape but I
found that it came up a bit short and didn’t quite meet the top of the deck so I had to add plastic
shims to close the gap. I replaced the rear tow loops with replacements made from wire because
the photo-etched tow loops are extremely fragile and a bit on the thin side in my opinion.
I left the tracks off during painting. After painting the road wheels and idler were super glued to
the kit. To make things easier I did not glue the drive sprockets to the tank. Then the tracks were
© AC Magnus 2009