RBT-5 - 1/72 scale Rockets, Missiles, Drones and RPVs
RBT-5 - 1/72 scale Rockets, Missiles, Drones and RPVs
RBT-5 - 1/72 scale Rockets, Missiles, Drones and RPVs
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The BT-5 tank<br />
Fit was acceptable for the majority but I still had to fiddle with some areas to get a good fit. For<br />
example the meeting point where the parts for the sides, bottom <strong>and</strong> glacis plate (part 18B) all<br />
meet needed some s<strong>and</strong>ing <strong>and</strong> scraping to get a good fit. Since I use methylene chloride (MEC)<br />
for gluing I was able to hold the pieces in place with my fingers as they dried since the joins<br />
were dry within seconds.<br />
The two sidewalls are made up of two pieces each (parts 91B & 21B, <strong>and</strong> 20B & 22B). There is<br />
supposed to be a small edge for the hull top to slot into but this was not the case <strong>and</strong> I had to cut<br />
approximately 1mm off the edge to allow the top hull part (part 53B) to fit between the two side<br />
pieces <strong>and</strong> lay flush. This lack of a slot did not become evident until after I had glued the two<br />
sides to the hull bottom (part 15B) so I had to do my cut very carefully after the fact with my<br />
razor saw.<br />
Tracks are of the link <strong>and</strong> length variety. I constructed my tracks in two runs per side – a top run<br />
<strong>and</strong> a bottom run. The track pieces were a bit delicate <strong>and</strong> I did manage to break one of them<br />
during construction.<br />
Step 9 of the instructions shows the construction sequence for the track links. Each of the links<br />
has a three or four notch end, with the three notch pieces slotting into the four notch pieces. I test<br />
fit the runs I planned on building before actually gluing them together. I found that the<br />
instructions were slightly off in their sequence. The long bottom run should have the 3 notch end<br />
facing to the front of the tank. The instructions show a four notch end <strong>and</strong> if you follow the<br />
progression of notched ends around the wheels, if you have the four notch end facing forward<br />
you will get a four notch to four notch join which doesn’t work.<br />
I also found that I needed one less link for the track links that wrap around the idler wheel at the<br />
front.<br />
The fenders were to close to the idler wheel at the front of the tank <strong>and</strong> prevented the track<br />
pieces from going between them. I was forced to remove the fenders which I had already glued<br />
in place. The resultant s<strong>and</strong>ing to remove the scars in the plastic also removed the majority of the<br />
bolt detail.<br />
Another oddity was the turret. The bottom (part 46D) has a small circular disc surrounding the<br />
locating peg for the turret <strong>and</strong> hull. This disc doesn’t fit into the tiny hole <strong>and</strong> leaves the turret sit<br />
a bit proud of the hull, leaving a small gap between the hull <strong>and</strong> the turret that allows light<br />
through. I found this rather odd <strong>and</strong> opened up the hole in the hull so that the turret fit flush to<br />
the hull. Why UM did this I have no idea but it just makes for another niggly item that has to be<br />
done to make this kit look better.<br />
Photo-etched parts are nicely done. It was quite easy to bend the engine cover to shape but I<br />
found that it came up a bit short <strong>and</strong> didn’t quite meet the top of the deck so I had to add plastic<br />
shims to close the gap. I replaced the rear tow loops with replacements made from wire because<br />
the photo-etched tow loops are extremely fragile <strong>and</strong> a bit on the thin side in my opinion.<br />
I left the tracks off during painting. After painting the road wheels <strong>and</strong> idler were super glued to<br />
the kit. To make things easier I did not glue the drive sprockets to the tank. Then the tracks were<br />
© AC Magnus 2009