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What I Tasted on My Spring Break - SPEC's Liquors

What I Tasted on My Spring Break - SPEC's Liquors

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www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

Achaval-Ferrer is a small red-wine-<strong>on</strong>ly producer in Mendoza Argentina focusing exclusively <strong>on</strong> estate grown old-vine fruit. Partners<br />

Santiago Achaval and Manuel Ferrer Minetti have purchased four vineyards in differ<br />

ferent ent areas of Mendoza with old vines <strong>on</strong> them<br />

producing Malbec, Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah. The estate's average yield is 1.3-t<strong>on</strong>s-per-acre (as opposed<br />

to over 3-t<strong>on</strong>s-per-acr<br />

-acre for many boutique California producers). Santiago Achaval says that the vineyards make the wines and that the<br />

winemaker's job is to express ess the character of their old vine fruit into the bottle. If Achaval-Ferrer's er's "Quimera" may be thought of as an<br />

ultimate expressi<strong>on</strong> essi<strong>on</strong> of the whole of Mendoza terroir, the single vineyard Altamira Malbec is the expressi<strong>on</strong> essi<strong>on</strong> of <strong>on</strong>e very old vineyard.<br />

ACHAVAL-FERRER Quimera, Mendoza, 2001<br />

$33.50 btl $186.56 case 6x750ml<br />

Quimera is a blend of 54% old vine Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, 24% old<br />

vine Malbec, and 22% Merlot (most of the grapes are from the estate<br />

but some come from vineyards under l<strong>on</strong>g term lease) aged in 90%<br />

French and 10% American oak barrels (1/3 new). The result is a<br />

dusty, rich, balanced red offering ample black fruit with notes of<br />

tobacco, dust, pencil-shavings, and Malbec spice. Deeply flavorful, it<br />

lingers in the mouth with fruit and dust to the end. In the glass, it<br />

slowly opens to reveal its perfume. Elegant, medium weight,<br />

balanced and complete. Excellent. Bear's Score: 94 points.<br />

ACHAVAL-FERRER Altamira Malbec, Mendoza, 2001<br />

$72.31 btl $402.88 case 6x750ml<br />

Made from 100% Malbec produced by 80+ year old vines grown<br />

<strong>on</strong> their own roots (ungrafted) in the famous la C<strong>on</strong>sulta area<br />

aged in all new oak barrels (95% French and 5% American), this<br />

is a serious, perfumed, juicy-ripe Malbec. Beautifully integrated<br />

and absolutely complete, it is succulent with grapey black fruit<br />

balanced by notes of tobacco, dust, and pencil shavings with a<br />

perfume that rises through it offering cedar, vanilla, and<br />

potpourri. It lasts and lasts with a lovely feel in the mouth. Truly<br />

delicious. Outstanding. Bear's Score: 96+ points.<br />

After a few years of up-and-down quality, it seems that, with the 2002 vintage, Bouchaine has <strong>on</strong>ce again become<br />

a reliable producer of fine quality Chard<strong>on</strong>nay and Pinot Noir from their vineyard <strong>on</strong> Buchli Stati<strong>on</strong> Road in Carneros.<br />

Part of that renaissance is due to the introducti<strong>on</strong> of a value-priced sec<strong>on</strong>d wine—Buchli Stati<strong>on</strong>—with a colorful<br />

"lettuce box art" label that lets Bouchaine blend some of the better (and still very good) juice that doesn't make the<br />

cut to be in the Bouchaine labeled wines.<br />

BOUCHAINE Chard<strong>on</strong>nay, Carneros, 2002<br />

$15.13 btl $166.50 case 12x750ml<br />

100% Chard<strong>on</strong>nay fermented and aged in a mix of mostly French oak barrels (33% new), this is a minerally, well-focused,<br />

nicely balanced Chard<strong>on</strong>nay with good cool climate fruit showing notes of pineapple, sweet lem<strong>on</strong>, tropical lime, and<br />

pomegranate. It is very clean with a minerally terroir character. Almost Puligny-like. Excellent. Bear's Score: 91 points.<br />

BOUCHAINE Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2002<br />

$15.75 btl $175.50 case 12x750ml<br />

100% Pinot Noir aged 12 m<strong>on</strong>ths in French oak barrels (approximately 40% new) results in a medium-weight Pinot<br />

featuring ripe red cherry fruit with notes of cocoa and earth and a hint of bitter cola nut. Very nicely balanced with a fine<br />

fresh feel. The fine fruit and perfume linger <strong>on</strong>. Excellent. Bear's Score: 91 points.<br />

BUCHLI STATION Chard<strong>on</strong>nay, California, 2002<br />

$10.15 btl $111.75 case 12x750ml<br />

A blend of grapes from Bouchaine's estate and from vineyards in M<strong>on</strong>terey and Edna Valley fermented<br />

in oak barrels (30% new) with a partial malolactic fermentati<strong>on</strong>, this wine is flavorful,<br />

even rich, but in balance and well-focused with notes of tropical fruit, lime, and green<br />

pear. It is alive in the mouth with a l<strong>on</strong>g, clean finish. Fine. Bear's Score: 89+ points.<br />

BUCHLI STATION Pinot Noir, California, 2002<br />

$10.15 btl $111.75 case 12x750ml<br />

100% Pinot Noir fermented in small open top fermenters and aged eight m<strong>on</strong>ths in a mix of French,<br />

US, and Hungarian oak barrels yields this mix of red and black cherry fruit with notes of cola, earth,<br />

and spice. Hints at raspberry and cranberry. Medium-weight and in balance.<br />

Lasts nicely with a bit of chewiness at the end. Fine. Bear's Score: 88+ points.

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