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Colour Chronicle - June 2013

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TEXTILE<br />

Summary of the key features of modern<br />

ultra low liquor ratio machines<br />

• The liquor ratio is reduced from 8:1 to 4:1<br />

for cotton processing.<br />

• Reduced fabric tension and friction for<br />

better fabric running conditions in the<br />

chamber (tangle free).<br />

• Contact free dyeing (between the fabric and<br />

bulk volume of the dye bath). Dyeing takes<br />

place in the nozzle.<br />

• Shorter processing time (e.g. faster loading/<br />

unloading, heating/cooling, filling/<br />

draining).<br />

• Reduced energy, water and chemical<br />

consumption.<br />

• Novel, water saving rinsing systems e.g.<br />

Then® direct rinsing ‘shower principle’.<br />

• Low liquor ratio conditions even when the<br />

machine is under-loaded.<br />

• Improved microprocessor control.<br />

Process and dyestuff requirements<br />

When dyeing at low liquor ratio, the selection<br />

of the reactive dyes is critical as they need to<br />

fulfill the following high requirements:<br />

Process requirements<br />

• Only a low amount of liquor is available to<br />

prepare the dyestuff solution (LR 1.5:1).<br />

• Excellent shade transfer from lab (LR<br />

8:1) to production (LR 4:1) and shade<br />

reproducibility from bulk to bulk.<br />

• Perfectly level dyeing with very good fabric<br />

appearance must be achieved at LR 4:1.<br />

• Rinsing and washing off at low liquor ratio.<br />

All the key points at one glance<br />

Drimaren® Electrolyte Diffusion Migration Substantivity Exhaustion Fixation<br />

Stability<br />

(80g/l Na 2<br />

SO 4<br />

) [%] [%] [%] [%]<br />

G. Yellow HF-CD >35 g/l 7 5 59 88 82<br />

Orange HF-2GL >35 g/l 5.5 4 61 96 91<br />

Red HF-6BL >35 g/l 7 4-5 60 91 81<br />

Red HF-3B >35 g/l 5.5 4-5 55 97 93<br />

Blue HF-RL >35 g/l 5.5 4-5 68 93 83<br />

Blue HF-2B >35 g/l 5.5 4-5 64 91 86<br />

Dark Blue HF-CD >35 g/l 5.5 4 55 90 82<br />

Navy HF-GN >35 g/l 7 4-5 60 92 88<br />

Requirements of reactive dyes<br />

• High solubility in presence of salt and alkali<br />

(solution stability).<br />

• Low influence of salt concentration and<br />

liquor ratio on dye yield (high neutral<br />

substantivity).<br />

• Very good migration (levelling) properties,<br />

on the fibre, during the neutral phase. High<br />

reactivity and fixation in the alkaline phase.<br />

• Very high fixation reactive dyes requiring<br />

less salt. Very good diffusion and low<br />

substantivity of the hydrolyzed dye.<br />

Drimaren® HF reactive dyes meet the<br />

needs of Ultra Short Liquor Ratio<br />

dyeing:<br />

• High solution stability (in the presence<br />

of salt).<br />

• High neutral substantivity.<br />

• Very good migration.<br />

• Very good diffusion.<br />

• High reactivity and degree of fixation.<br />

• Excellent wet fastness can be achieved by<br />

rinsing at a temperature of only 60ºC.<br />

• By adopting Clariant’s Drimaren® HF<br />

range of poly-reactive dyes, on modern<br />

ultra low liquor ratio, exhaust dyeing<br />

machinery, vast savings in water, energy<br />

and chemical consumption are possible,<br />

reducing the environmental footprint of the<br />

textile produced.<br />

7 COLOUR CHRONICLE__JUNE <strong>2013</strong>

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