Colour Chronicle - June 2013

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TEXTILE Drimaren® HF reactive dyes Ultra-low liquor ratio dyeing solution Reducing the textile industry’s environmental footprint As the world population develops, the consumption of natural resources and environmental pollution increases. Every stage of the textile supply chain has environmental impacts, therefore it is under pressure to reduce water and energy consumption together with effluent discharges. Liquor ratio can be classified as follows: Winch dyeing machines: LR 20:1 – 40:1 Long liquor ratio Preparation, dyeing and finishing of cotton substrates have the utmost water, energy and chemical requirements (WEC) and therefore the highest possibility for reductions. Reduction in the amount of water used is a particular focus as it brings corresponding reductions in the energy required to heat water and, to a lesser extent, the amount of dyes and chemicals used. What does ‘Ultra Low Liquor Ratio’ mean? Since the introduction of jet dyeing machines, people have talked about dyeing cotton at low liquor ratio, which in reality meant between 8:1 – 12:1. In the past few years, new types of jet dyeing machines have been introduced which can dye cotton at ultra short liquor ratios (ULLR). Jet dyeing machines: LR 8:1 – 12:1 Air Jet dyeing machines: LR 4:1 – 6:1 Short liquor ratio Ultra short liquor ratio Processing at ULLR greatly reduces energy and water consumption ensuring minimum environmental impact and ongoing sustainability. Then - Airflow® Synergy Features: • Aerodynamic fabric transport • Shortest processing time • Unique rinsing process • Lowest liquor ratio CO 1:4; PES 1:2.5 • High versatility 6 COLOUR CHRONICLE__JUNE <strong>2013</strong>
TEXTILE Summary of the key features of modern ultra low liquor ratio machines • The liquor ratio is reduced from 8:1 to 4:1 for cotton processing. • Reduced fabric tension and friction for better fabric running conditions in the chamber (tangle free). • Contact free dyeing (between the fabric and bulk volume of the dye bath). Dyeing takes place in the nozzle. • Shorter processing time (e.g. faster loading/ unloading, heating/cooling, filling/ draining). • Reduced energy, water and chemical consumption. • Novel, water saving rinsing systems e.g. Then® direct rinsing ‘shower principle’. • Low liquor ratio conditions even when the machine is under-loaded. • Improved microprocessor control. Process and dyestuff requirements When dyeing at low liquor ratio, the selection of the reactive dyes is critical as they need to fulfill the following high requirements: Process requirements • Only a low amount of liquor is available to prepare the dyestuff solution (LR 1.5:1). • Excellent shade transfer from lab (LR 8:1) to production (LR 4:1) and shade reproducibility from bulk to bulk. • Perfectly level dyeing with very good fabric appearance must be achieved at LR 4:1. • Rinsing and washing off at low liquor ratio. All the key points at one glance Drimaren® Electrolyte Diffusion Migration Substantivity Exhaustion Fixation Stability (80g/l Na 2 SO 4 ) [%] [%] [%] [%] G. Yellow HF-CD >35 g/l 7 5 59 88 82 Orange HF-2GL >35 g/l 5.5 4 61 96 91 Red HF-6BL >35 g/l 7 4-5 60 91 81 Red HF-3B >35 g/l 5.5 4-5 55 97 93 Blue HF-RL >35 g/l 5.5 4-5 68 93 83 Blue HF-2B >35 g/l 5.5 4-5 64 91 86 Dark Blue HF-CD >35 g/l 5.5 4 55 90 82 Navy HF-GN >35 g/l 7 4-5 60 92 88 Requirements of reactive dyes • High solubility in presence of salt and alkali (solution stability). • Low influence of salt concentration and liquor ratio on dye yield (high neutral substantivity). • Very good migration (levelling) properties, on the fibre, during the neutral phase. High reactivity and fixation in the alkaline phase. • Very high fixation reactive dyes requiring less salt. Very good diffusion and low substantivity of the hydrolyzed dye. Drimaren® HF reactive dyes meet the needs of Ultra Short Liquor Ratio dyeing: • High solution stability (in the presence of salt). • High neutral substantivity. • Very good migration. • Very good diffusion. • High reactivity and degree of fixation. • Excellent wet fastness can be achieved by rinsing at a temperature of only 60ºC. • By adopting Clariant’s Drimaren® HF range of poly-reactive dyes, on modern ultra low liquor ratio, exhaust dyeing machinery, vast savings in water, energy and chemical consumption are possible, reducing the environmental footprint of the textile produced. 7 COLOUR CHRONICLE__JUNE <strong>2013</strong>
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Colour Chronicle - June 2013

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