Colour Chronicle - June 2013

A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publication 

for Textile, Leather and Paper 

34th year of publication 

COLOUR 

CHRONICLE 

Textiles 

Greens First 

Clariant has launched the concept for 

levelness, reproducibility and better fastness 

properties for Turquoise, Blue and Green 

shades. 

Paper 

Coating 

An answer to PFOA free Chemistry with 

high performance, oil and grease 

resistant. 

Leather 

More than meets the eye 

Clariant reveals inspiring new innovations for 

India’s Leather Sector at IILF 2013. 

JUNE 2013 | number 2

TEXTILE 

Greens First 

Trouble-Free Greens 

with HUMECTOL® C LiQ HC 

As a global leader in specialty chemicals 

and dyes, Clariant’s Textile Chemicals is 

committed to establishing long-lasting 

customer relationships based on our proven 

expertise, innovation and sustainability. 

Customers prefer to work with us because 

we identify their needs early on and provide 

outstanding, customized products along with 

the entire textile processing chain. We boost 

our customers’ creativity and efficiency with 

creative solutions that add value to their own 

products and services with a strong focus on 

sustainability, combining profitable growth 

with social and environmental responsibility. 

PACKAGE CONCEPT 

PRODUCT 

Humectol® c liq hc 

Ladiquest® 2005 liq c 

Imacol® C2G liq 

Ladipur® EXW liq 

Optifix® 2000 liq 

BRIEF DESCRIPTION 

Biodegradable, low foaming wetting agent and lubricant with 

leveling, dispersing and emulsifying properties. 

Non foaming sequestering agent and protective colloid with 

dispersing properties for dyeing of cellulose and polyester 

fibres and PES/CEL blends. 

Non foaming lubricant for cellulosic fibres and their blends. 

Universal after-soaping agent for the removal of reactive dye 

hydrolysate or unfixed direct dye from dyeings on cellulosic 

material. 

Fixative for dyeings and prints with direct and reactive dyes 

by exhaust and continuous methods. 

In producing different greens with respect 

to depth and shade, copper pthalocyanine 

turquoise and a brilliant yellow do not 

necessarily have same/similar exhaustion and 

fixation rate. This creates many problems for 

a dyer. At a given situation, choice of colours 

could be limited, thanks to Humectol® c liq hc 

which monitors and guides the dyestuffs in 

the dye-bath to give an acceptable results to 

the quality of dyeing thus produced. 

Process Recommendations: 

The salient features of 

Humectol® c liq hc have been 

incorporated into a package 

concept that makes “Greens 

First”, allowing levelness, 

reproducibility, good fastness 

properties in turquoise 

dyeings. 

A: 0.5-1.0% Ladiquest® 2005, 1.0% Humectol® c, 1.0% Imacol® C2G 

B: Dyes – linear dosing 

C: Glauber’s salt – linear dosing 

D: Soda ash – linear dosing 

Dyes recommendations: 

Drimaren® Turquoise CLB 

Drimaren® Brilliant Yellow HFRL 

Drimaren® Blue HFRL 

Drimaren® Green HF5BL 

2 COLOUR CHRONICLE__JUNE 2013

TEXTILE 

FEARLESS GREEN, BLUE AND 

TURQUOISE BY CLARIANT 

In today’s fashion industry, 

color plays an ever more 

important role as it very 

often gives the desired 

impulse to the article. Color 

has also to fulfill the growing 

expectations of the end 

consumer for brilliancy and 

durability. 

This is especially true for turquoise, blue 

and green which are highly in vogue. On 

the other hand, such colors are perceived as 

difficult to dye. Every batch is a challenge for 

a dyer when dyeing turquoise, blue and green 

due to the inherent characteristics of these 

dyestuffs; issues such as unlevelled dyeing, 

batch-to-batch variation or dye specs are not 

uncommon. 

This is where Clariant’s “Greens First” 

concept comes to the rescue. “Greens First” 

features Humectol® c liq hc, a solution 

especially designed to provide improved 

levelness, reproducibility and fastness 

properties when dyeing turquoise, blue and 

green shades. 

The salient features of Humectol® c liq hc 

Humectol® c liq hc makes exhaust dyeing easier 

and more reliable, particularly for cellulosic 

fibres. Humectol® c liq hc provides the textile 

dyer with an auxiliary that is highly regarded 

in all exhaust dyeing processes by virtue of its 

selective properties and synergism. 

Features and Properties 

– Wetting agent 

Dry goods are thoroughly wet out and bobbins 

are efficiently de-aerated. 

– Lubricant 

Prevents creases by improving movement and 

folding down of the goods. 

– Levelling/dispersing 

Has a levelling effect on reactive, direct, vat and 

sulfur dyes. 

– Softener 

The softening properties significantly improve 

the handle and sewability of the goods. 

– Emulsifying and washing 

Exhibits rapid foam collapse with good wetting 

action. 

– Biodegradable 

Very good biodegradability ensures dyers to 

meet the ecological demands of modern textile 

industry. 

Dispersing 

Levelling 

With 

Without 

With 

Without 

With Clariant’s “Greens First” concept, 

green, blue and turquoise shades will become 

your favorite dyeings ! 


TEXTILE 

Back to nature 

One-step-ahead 

fluorine-free water repellence 

Arkophob® 

FFR liq 

Make your gear desirable 

Innovation in repellency 

solutions 

One step ahead in fluorine-free water 

repellency. 

After several years of development, Clariant 

introduces Arkophob® FFR, a newly 

developed fluorine-free water repellent 

agent. 

We do have some products in the market, 

though they are not exact in performance to 

FFR, are similar in features projected. 

e.g Ecorepel technology of Schoeller, 

RucoDry Eco (Rudolf ) and Phobol from 

Huntsman. 

Arkophob® FFR brings out an innovative 

answer to water repellency demands. 

“Fluorine Free durable water repellency.” 

One-stop-shop for repellency solutions 

Clariant continuously develops repellency 

solutions that are kind to people and nature. 

With Arkophob® FFR, Clariant now offers an 

alternative, and more importantly an efficient 

one, to conventional fluorocarbon-based 

repellency products, and is in the position 

to provide solutions for virtually all water 

repellency needs. 

Think fluorine-free products. Think high 

performance. 

Think inspired creativity. 

Brands and retailers can finally dream of 

outdoor gear that protects the user and that 

is gentler to the environment. 

Arkophob® FFR has it all 

• Water repellency 

• Durability of the effect 

• Fabric strength retention 

• Softness and bulky hand-feel 

• Sustainability 

With Clariant’s fluorine-free Arkophob® FFR, 

outdoor gear and equipment can reach a new 

level of performance. 

Trust the experts 

Clariant is a world leader in specialty chemicals 

and that comes with a number of assurances in 

terms of technology and performance. 

Technology 

Arkophob® FFR is an advanced technology. 

The active components are encapsulated, 

allowing a durable and even film formation 

on the surface of the fabric. 

Performance 

Arkophob® FFR is superior to existing stateof-the-art 

fluorine-free products in terms of 

performance and durability of the effect. It can 

achieve a durability of more than 20 washes. 

Tell the story 

Clariant offers a range of hangtags and labels 

especially designed to communicate the 

benefits brought to textiles by our functional 

effects. 

These labels help to highlight at-a-glance 

benefits that go beyond the obvious. 

Benefits at a glance: 

• State-of-the-art fluoro-free water repellent 

• Very good wash permanency of the effect 

(more than 20 washes) 

• Soft, bulky hand-feel 

• Kind to nature 


TEXTILE 

See for yourself 

100 

Simply follow the swim-lane to find your solution: 

80 

60 

40 

20 

0 

Spray tests on cotton of Arkophob® FFR versus 

existing fluorine-free product. 

100 

80 

60 

Make your gear reliable 

Ask for more 

The benefits offered with Arkophob® FFR find their source in the exceptional properties of 

these products. 

Water repellency: 

Durability of the effect: 

Arkophob® FFR offers water repellency that is close to the 

C6 Fluoro chemicals & superior to many of the fluorine free 

products in the market. 

Displays wash resistance of more than 20 washes, a 

performance close to C6 Fluoro chemicals and superior to 

many of the available fluorine free products. 

Fabric strength: 

Arkophob® FFR improves the technological properties of 

the treated fabric with better resistance to abrasion and 

tear. 

Softness and bulky hand-feel: The fabric stays pleasant to the touch. 

Sustainability: 

Fluorine-free. 

Arkophob® FFR is weakly cationic and causes no yellowing. 

40 

20 

0 

Comparison of effect durability on cotton of 

Arkophob® FFR versus existing fluorine-free product 

after 20 washes. 


TEXTILE 

Drimaren® HF 

reactive dyes 

Ultra-low liquor ratio 

dyeing solution 

Reducing the textile industry’s 

environmental footprint 

As the world population develops, the 

consumption of natural resources and 

environmental pollution increases. 

Every stage of the textile supply chain 

has environmental impacts, therefore it 

is under pressure to reduce water and 

energy consumption together with effluent 

discharges. 

Liquor ratio can be classified as follows: 

Winch dyeing machines: LR 20:1 – 40:1 

Long liquor ratio 

Preparation, dyeing and finishing of cotton 

substrates have the utmost water, energy and 

chemical requirements (WEC) and therefore 

the highest possibility for reductions. 

Reduction in the amount of water used is a 

particular focus as it brings corresponding 

reductions in the energy required to heat 

water and, to a lesser extent, the amount of 

dyes and chemicals used. 

What does ‘Ultra Low Liquor Ratio’ 

mean? 

Since the introduction of jet dyeing machines, 

people have talked about dyeing cotton at low 

liquor ratio, which in reality meant between 

8:1 – 12:1. In the past few years, new types of 

jet dyeing machines have been introduced 

which can dye cotton at ultra short liquor 

ratios (ULLR). 

Jet dyeing machines: LR 8:1 – 12:1 

Air Jet dyeing machines: LR 4:1 – 6:1 

Short liquor ratio 

Ultra short liquor ratio 

Processing at ULLR greatly reduces energy and water consumption ensuring minimum 

environmental impact and ongoing sustainability. 

Then - Airflow® Synergy 

Features: 

• Aerodynamic fabric transport 

• Shortest processing time 

• Unique rinsing process 

• Lowest liquor ratio CO 1:4; PES 1:2.5 

• High versatility 


TEXTILE 

Summary of the key features of modern 

ultra low liquor ratio machines 

• The liquor ratio is reduced from 8:1 to 4:1 

for cotton processing. 

• Reduced fabric tension and friction for 

better fabric running conditions in the 

chamber (tangle free). 

• Contact free dyeing (between the fabric and 

bulk volume of the dye bath). Dyeing takes 

place in the nozzle. 

• Shorter processing time (e.g. faster loading/ 

unloading, heating/cooling, filling/ 

draining). 

• Reduced energy, water and chemical 

consumption. 

• Novel, water saving rinsing systems e.g. 

Then® direct rinsing ‘shower principle’. 

• Low liquor ratio conditions even when the 

machine is under-loaded. 

• Improved microprocessor control. 

Process and dyestuff requirements 

When dyeing at low liquor ratio, the selection 

of the reactive dyes is critical as they need to 

fulfill the following high requirements: 

Process requirements 

• Only a low amount of liquor is available to 

prepare the dyestuff solution (LR 1.5:1). 

• Excellent shade transfer from lab (LR 

8:1) to production (LR 4:1) and shade 

reproducibility from bulk to bulk. 

• Perfectly level dyeing with very good fabric 

appearance must be achieved at LR 4:1. 

• Rinsing and washing off at low liquor ratio. 

All the key points at one glance 

Drimaren® Electrolyte Diffusion Migration Substantivity Exhaustion Fixation 

Stability 

(80g/l Na 2 

SO 4 

) [%] [%] [%] [%] 

G. Yellow HF-CD >35 g/l 7 5 59 88 82 

Orange HF-2GL >35 g/l 5.5 4 61 96 91 

Red HF-6BL >35 g/l 7 4-5 60 91 81 

Red HF-3B >35 g/l 5.5 4-5 55 97 93 

Blue HF-RL >35 g/l 5.5 4-5 68 93 83 

Blue HF-2B >35 g/l 5.5 4-5 64 91 86 

Dark Blue HF-CD >35 g/l 5.5 4 55 90 82 

Navy HF-GN >35 g/l 7 4-5 60 92 88 

Requirements of reactive dyes 

• High solubility in presence of salt and alkali 

(solution stability). 

• Low influence of salt concentration and 

liquor ratio on dye yield (high neutral 

substantivity). 

• Very good migration (levelling) properties, 

on the fibre, during the neutral phase. High 

reactivity and fixation in the alkaline phase. 

• Very high fixation reactive dyes requiring 

less salt. Very good diffusion and low 

substantivity of the hydrolyzed dye. 

Drimaren® HF reactive dyes meet the 

needs of Ultra Short Liquor Ratio 

dyeing: 

• High solution stability (in the presence 

of salt). 

• High neutral substantivity. 

• Very good migration. 

• Very good diffusion. 

• High reactivity and degree of fixation. 

• Excellent wet fastness can be achieved by 

rinsing at a temperature of only 60ºC. 

• By adopting Clariant’s Drimaren® HF 

range of poly-reactive dyes, on modern 

ultra low liquor ratio, exhaust dyeing 

machinery, vast savings in water, energy 

and chemical consumption are possible, 

reducing the environmental footprint of the 

textile produced. 


TEXTILE 

Dyeing Polyamide 

with Acid Dyes 

pH dependence 

Dyeing behavior of polyamide 

fibres :- 

Combinability of acid dyes 

Dyeing behavior of polyamide fibres is 

heavily influenced by the following factors: 

– polyamide quality : PA 6/PA 6.6 

– mechanical influence : drawing/texturizing 

– heat treatment: presteaming/hot air setting 

These influences change the kinetics of the 

fibre with respect to acid dyes. 

Dye Properties 

Relative rate of exhaustion 

(Compatibility values) CV, C’V) 

pH dependence 

(at 2/1 SD applied amount) 

100 

CV=2 

slow 

rapid 

100 

low 

high 

80 

80 

60 

40 

CV=4 

60 

40 

20 

20 

0 

0 30 60 90 120 150 min 

30 98 98 ˚C 

Time/temperature 

Migration power 

(Compatibility values CV, C’V) 

0 

4 5 6 7 8 9 

pH of the dyeliquor 

Saturation concentration 

100 

80 

high 

dyeing 

low 

% depth 

60 

40 

20 

0 

addition 

0 15 30 45 60 75 90 

migration time 


TEXTILE 

Fibre Properties 

Dye affinity 

14 

12 

10 

8 

6 

4 

2 

low 

high 

0 

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 

Optical Yield 

Fibril cross-section 

% amount of dye applied 

Optical yield of the dye goods 

How much dye is required for a given depth 

of shade? The dye requirement increases 

when a change of material takes place in the 

following direction: 

– higher degree of delustering 

– finer filaments (microfibres) 

– filament cross-sections other than round 

Saturation limit of the fibre 

The saturation limit for acid dyes, especially 

of the disulphonated type, and disulphonated 

metal complex dyes is easily determined. 

It is reached when further additions of 

dye and continued lowering of the pH of 

the dye bath produce no increase in depth, 

even with prolonged dyeing. The nearer to 

the saturation point limit of the fibre the 

dyeing takes place, the lower the wet fastness 

properties and the higher the demand on 

the combinability of the dyes used as ternary 

combination elements. 

Rate of exhaustion 

Compared to wool and silk | Dyeing: 2.5% Nylosan Blue N-5GL 200 | pH 4.5, liquor ratio 20:1 

Dye affinity 

Comparison of number of binding points for acid dyes 

18 

16 

14 

12 

10 

Wo 

8 

6 

4 

Ms 

2 

PA 

0 

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 

Rate of dye distribution 

Dye distribution on the fibre surface 

(levelling out at 98°C, pH 5 ) 

Optical Yield 

Fibril fineness 

Degree of mattness 


TEXTILE 

Fibre cross-section and surface properties 

Cross-section Cross-section Fibre 

shape surface surface 

Suitability of material 

Prerequisite for a level dyeing is uniform 

distribution of the dye on the fibre surface 

through: 

• liquor transport (exhaust process) or 

• mechanical distribution (printing or 

padding method). 

Liquor circulation Shrinkage/density 

• of wound packages 

• of spools 

Running properties of piece goods 

• folding down tendency 

• crease formation 

Uniform 

• pre-treatment 

• scouring 

• setting 

• bleaching 

round profiled solid hollow smooth structured 

Properties 

Optical 

Lustre weaker stronger stronger weaker stronger weaker 

Transparency higher lower higher lower higher lower 

Hiding power lower higher lower higher lower higher 

Colour impression darker paler paler darker paler darker 

Dye consumption lower higher lower higher lower higher 

(optical yield) 

Soil visibility higher lower higher lower higher lower 

Particle adhesion weaker stronger — — weaker stronger 

Tactile 

Handle softer harder softer harder softer harder 

Rubbing smoother duller — — smoother duller 

Flex resistance lower higher lower higher — — 

Volume, bulk lower higher lower higher — — 

Physiological 

Fibre surface smaller larger smaller larger smaller larger 

Moisture conductivity lower higher lower higher lower higher 

Heat insulation lower higher lower higher — — 

Comparison of the properties of PA / Wo / Ms 

Properties Polyamide Wool Silk* 

Spec. gravity g/ccm 1.29-1.33 1.3 1.37 

Absorptivity % 3.5-4.5 15.17 10.5 

Tensile strength g/den 2 - 7 1.5 5 

Fibril titre den 0.9 - 20 2 - 10 0.9 - 1.4 

Alkali stability pH 10 good unstable moderate 

Acid stability pH 2 moderate good moderate 

Crystallinity medium amorphous high 

Iso-electric point pH 6 4.4 - 4.8 5.0 - 5.5 

Amino group / g fibre mVal 0.06 0.8 0.25 

Reduction potential none high low 

Fibre surface small small large 

Melting point °C PA 6 215 - 220 

°C PA 66 255 

Pressing temperature °C PA 6 150 

°C PA 66 180 - 200 


TEXTILE 

Clariant Showcases 

Advanced Denim Technology 

Clariant participated in the recent ‘Indigo 

2013’ – Denim fair, in April 2013 at the 

International Trade Expocentre, Noida, 

India. Clariant showcased its ADVANCED 

DENIM technology to a very large number 

of denim professionals, denim technicians, 

denim industry decision-makers, aspiring 

students, all under one roof. 

Clariant’s ADVANCED DENIM concept 

sets a new benchmark in denim production 

that unites technological and ecological 

advances with new and exciting fashion 

effects. Compared with conventional 

denim production, Clariant’s unmatched 

ADVANCED DENIM technology is simpler, 

more versatile and opens the doorway to 

undreamt opportunities. And when it comes 

to environmental compatibility, Clariant’s 

trailblazing new technology raises the bar 

to a new level. Effectively, ADVANCED 

DENIM combines the advantages of 

unprecedented fashion flexibility with more 

sustainable, eco-efficient manufacture to 

create a win-win situation for producers and 

consumers alike. 

Nirmal Punjabi, Head – Business 

Development & Competence Centre – Dyes, 

Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd, during his 

presentation in the concurrent conference, 

spoke on ADVANCED DENIM and 

how it saves energy, water and time. The 

production of denim fabric usually involves 

huge quantities of water: 2900 gallons of 

water are required to produce one pair of 

blue jeans; to produce 2.000 million units of 

denim garments, 40 billion litres of water 

is necessary. (Source: April 2010 Issue – 

National Geographic) 

Mr. Punjabi said that, “Clariant has 

developed an innovative process technology 

for more environmentally sound jean 

manufacturing. Clariant’s new ADVANCED 

DENIM technology has simplified the 

finishing and dyeing of a fabric that accounts 

for some 14% of global cotton production. 

In the conventional denim indigo dyeing 

process, the fabric passes through a line of 10 

to 14 vats, depending on the equipment used. 

Clariant’s Denim-Ox process brings this 

sequence down to four, and its Pad/Sizing 

Ox reduces this further to just one vat. Both 

methods utilize Clariant’s Diresul® RDT dyes, 

which generate a broader spectrum of shades 

than usually associated with conventional 

indigo dyes but without its environmental 

drawbacks”. 

In contrast to the traditional production 

methods, the new technology reduces the 

water consumption by up to 92 per cent, 

prevents approx. 63 per cent of cotton 

waste and saves up to 30 per cent of the 

required energy. Clariant estimated that, 


TEXTILE 

if only 25 per cent of all jeans worldwide 

were manufactured according to the 

ADVANCED DENIM process, water savings 

would amount to some 62 billion litres per 

year. This equals a water need of around 

1.7 million people. Furthermore, the novel 

technology prevents, according to Clariant’s 

calculations, 8.3 billion litres of waste water 

and saves around 220 million kilowatt hours 

of energy, annually and the carbon footprint 

of the industry in CO2 emissions reduced 

accordingly. (Source: Denim Jeans -A Global 

Strategic Business Report Card) 

To this, added P. Rajasekaran, Head – Textile 

Chemicals Business, Clariant Chemicals 

(India) Ltd., “The processing and finishing 

plays a very vital role in the manufacturing 

of jeans. The recent developments in 

technology and chemicals have helped to 

create an inevitable shift in the processing 

and finishing industry. All major denim 

brands have acknowledged the role of 

applying innovative processing and finishing 

techniques to help them remain ahead in 

today’s competitive markets and realize 

better valuation for their products. Our 

partners in the denim production chain 

could benefit from our new process that 

could fundamentally improve their own 

environmental credentials and their ability to 

promote and market them.” 

He further stated that, “Clariant will be 

investing more than ever in innovative 

products for current and future megatrends. 

ADVANCED DENIM by Clariant exhibits 

the synergy between technology, ecology and 

fashion. Clariant’s ADVANCED DENIM is 

a remarkable illustration of the company’s 

commitment to developing and introducing 

solutions for a more sustainable textile 

industry”. 

The Clariant stall was inaugurated by four 

dignitaries - Dr. Burak Akcapar, Ambassador 

- Turkish Embassy, Caglar Goeksu, 

Commercial Counsellor - Turkish Embassy, 

S.N. Modani, MD – Sangam Group, P.G. 

Niyogi, CEO - Oswal Denims. 

Clariant’s breakthrough technology has been 

honored by the prestigious 2012 Innovation 

Awards organized by ICIS Chemical 

Business magazine, as “overall winner” and 

as “Innovation with Best Environmental 

Benefit”. Clariant was also one of the first 

companies to be awarded an EU Ecolabel 

(Certificate Number: ES-CA/016/007) for 

its ADVANCED DENIM jean illustration 

collection, in recognition of the sustainability 

benefits that can be achieved with the 

technology. 

The savings obtained by ADVANCED 

DENIM is being noticed and implemented 

by the industry professionals who care about 

sustainability! So whether you make jean, sell 

them or simply love wearing them, Clariant’s 

ADVANCED DENIM will change the way 

you think of them in ways you never thought 

possible! 


50 2012 

Towards sustainable textiles. 

Uniting ecology and economy. 

ONE WAY 

Pave the way to a sustainable future. Clariant’s ONE WAY helps textile mills, 

manufacturers and brand owners to develop innovative textile solutions that 

are both more ecologically and economically sustainable. Our ultimate aim is to 

provide a fast, measurable and reliable approach to the selection of chemical 

product and process solutions. Close to you. Any time. Any place. 

CLARIANT CHEMICALS (INDIA) LTD. BU TEXTILE CHEMICALS, 

P.O. SANDOZ BAUG, KOLSHET ROAD, THANE – 400 607. 

WWW.TEXTILES.CLARIANT.COM, WWW.CLARIANT.IN

PAPER 

Whether it’s a salad, an Asian wok dish, a 

classical kebab or a pizza to go: quick and 

tasty eat-out-of-hand snacks are now a 

normal part of a shopping expedition or 

the mid-day break. To save people getting 

greasy fingers or stains on their clothing, 

fast-food packaging is usually made of 

grease resistant paper. Such paper also has 

many other applications – for confectionery, 

pastries and frozen foods and even for animal 

food and cardboard tableware. Until now, 

naturally absorbent paper was usually made 

grease resistant by impregnating it with 

conventional additives consisting chemicals 

of long, very stable molecular chains. 

However, these substances are attracting 

growing criticism because of health and 

environmental concerns. This is why paper 

manufacturers have long been on the lookout 

for alternatives. 

“Clariant has now developed 

Cartaguard® KHI, a highly 

effective impregnating agent 

which thanks to its innovative 

formula is a big step forward in 

terms of safer use,” says 

DR. FRÉDÉRIC MABIRE, Global Product 

Line Manager for Paper Coating Chemicals 

at Clariant. 

Impregnation with 

totally PFOA-free 

Cartaguard® KHI makes 

paper grease resistant 

Conventional additives impregnation 

Conventional paper impregnation involves 

the use of a fluorinated substance consisting 

of long molecular chains. These chains are 

very stable and difficult to break. However, 

a small part of the chains may degrade to 

perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), a substance 

of health concern viewed critically by the 

experts. 

Now there is an impregnating agent which 

is both effective and safe: the innovative 

Cartaguard® KHI – developed by Clariant 

over five years of research activity. 

“Cartaguard® KHI is based on a 

completely different chemical 

compound, a C3-perfluoroalkyl 

ether polymer,” explains 

DR. FRÉDÉRIC MABIRE. “Based on a 

molecular substructure in which fluorinated 

alkyl chains consisting of only three carbon 

atoms are bridged by an oxygen atom, 

Cartaguard® KHI cannot break down to 

form PFOA.” Being safe for humans and the 

environment, Cartaguard® KHI has grease 

resistance properties which are close to 

conventional fluorine-based chemicals. 

Cartaguard® KHI: safer and more ecofriendly 

Cartaguard® KHI is already approved for 

food contact applications by the German 

Federal Institute for Risk Evaluation (BFR) 

and the US American regulatory agency 

FDA. It meets the stringent requirements 

for fast food as well as food service products. 

Furthermore, impregnated paper is more 

eco-friendly than plastic coated papers. The 

new impregnating agent also offers important 

benefits for paper manufacturers: it is easy to 

process because it generates hardly any foam 

during paper production and does not affect 

either the adhesive or printing properties of 

the paper. 

Following a test phase with several large 

customers, Cartaguard® KHI will be available 

in 2013 for fast food, frozen food and 

other food packaging. Customers enjoying 

a hamburger or pizza will not only be 

pleased about the unadulterated taste, but 

will also feel good about eating from safe, 

environmentally friendly packaging. 


PAPER 

Chemistry 

Explained 

How is paper manufactured? 

Paper is manufactured mainly from wood 

fibres which are broken down either 

mechanically or chemically. These wood 

fibres are then mixed with auxiliary agents 

and large amounts of water to produce a 

suspension which is then placed on a sieve. 

As the fibres distribute themselves beside and 

on top of each other on the sieve, the water 

drains away. This produces a homogeneous 

fibre composite – the raw paper. The paper 

web is then pressed between rolls, a process 

in which it is de-watered, compacted and 

finally dried. In a further processing cycle, 

many types of paper are coated, i.e. treated 

with a very thin layer of pigments and 

binders. This gives the paper a closed surface 

with good printing properties. 

How is paper made grease resistant? 

Paper intended for use as food packaging 

material has to be treated to make it grease 

resistant. Two methods are practiced for this 

purpose: in the first technique Cartaguard® 

KHI is introduced into the fibre suspension 

early in the production process so that it is 

distributed evenly throughout the entire 

paper. In the second method, it is the 

finished paper which is impregnated with 

Cartaguard® KHI; this is done, for example, 

by using a “size press” in which the paper 

web is passed between two rolls while 

applying a mixture of Cartaguard® KHI and 

starch. The impregnating agent doesn’t just 

remain on the surface, but also penetrates 

into the paper, creating a grease resistant 

layer. 

How does Cartaguard® KHI repel 

grease? 

Cartaguard® KHI consists of complex 

molecules comprising mainly carbon, 

fluorine, oxygen and hydrogen. The shape 

of a single molecule can be imagined as 

being rather like a comb; the handle of the 

comb represents the part of the molecule 

that attaches itself to the paper fibre and 

combines permanently with it while each 

tooth corresponds to a pendant molecular 

chain. When a large number of “combs” 

– Cartaguard® KHI molecules – arrange 

themselves close together on the surface 

of every single paper fibre, the fibre is 

surrounded by a grease resistant layer. When 

a droplet of oil comes into contact with this 

layer, it cannot penetrate as it would into 

untreated paper. Instead, it simply bounces 

off – experts call this the “lotus effect”. Oil 

therefore cannot enter the fibres and the 

paper remains unstained. 


03 2013 

Some process problems 

cannot be papered over: 

DEPOSIT CONTROL 

WITH CARTASPERS®. 

ELIMINATING »STICKIES« IN RECYCLED FIBRE. 

Waste-paper usually includes glue particles from post-its, envelopes and labels. And these 

can easily lead to machine breakdowns. Clariant’s deposit control solutions make your 

mill run cleaner: Cartaspers® PSM prevents deposits on wires and felts. Cartaspers® SCH 

helps to keep the drying section free from sticky remains. 

CLARIANT CHEMICALS (INDIA) LTD. BU PAPER SPECIALTIES, 

P.O. SANDOZ BAUG, KOLSHET ROAD, THANE - 400 607, INDIA. 

WWW.PAPER.CLARIANT.COM; WWW.CLARIANT.IN 

Sustainable deposit control with 

Cartaspers®: lower costs, less downtime 

and improved productivity.

LEATHER 

More than meets the eye 

Clariant reveals inspiring 

new innovations for India’s 

leather sector at IILF 2013 

Clariant at the 28th India International Leather Fair, 

Chennai Trade Centre, January 31 – February 3, 2013. 

Clariant invited India’s leather manufacturers to discover 

its inspiring new productivity, environment and creativity, 

focused product ranges at the India International 

Leather Fair (IILF 2013) in Chennai (Booth No. 3-03-B, 

Hall 3, January 31 - February 3, 2013). With the theme of 

“More than meets the eye”, Clariant, a world leader 

in specialty chemicals, showcased the new innovative 

additions to its extensive portfolio offering more 

sustainable performance and economy to its industry 

partners. 

The India International Leather Fair is a one-of-a-kind 

expo that brings together the leather industry leaders 

to encourage new developments and advancements, 

enable the industry to assess the new global challenges 

and prepare to compete with the best in the world. 

The event aimed to showcase the latest technologies, 

designs, fashion trends and processes involved in 

the manufacturing of leather related products from 

raw material to finished products. It also focused on 

auxiliary products such as finished leather; shoes; shoe 

components - uppers, soles, heels, counters, lasts; leather 

garments, fashion accessories, leather goods - wallets, 

belts, gloves, portfolios, hand bags; saddlery and harness; 

machinery and equipment and chemicals. 

Our Clariant booth was formally inaugurated on the 

evening of January 31, by Mark vonderBecke – Regional 

Head of Business Unit Leather Services APAC and 

R. Kumaresan - Country Head of BU – Leather Services. 

The next three days of the fair witnessed the flow 

of visitors from all over India and there were also 

many overseas visitors to our booth. Sustainability, 

Innovation and serving the Industry are the key messages 

emphasized by us. 

In the spotlight were Clariant’s new developments for 

the fine leather sector, making their debut at IILF 2013. 

Clariant launched its new range of low VOC Top coats 

“Aqualen® Top FL Series” for fine leathers such as shoes 

and bags. The innovative aqueous topcoats can be used as 

alternatives to the currently available solvent based tops. 

The new range of pure aqueous Aqualen products offers 

low levels of VOC and top coats with better performance 

than can be achieved with traditional technologies. 

Clariant also showcased its novel ‘Fine Leather Compacts 

- for lower inventory, lesser complexity and versatile 

applications!’ The series offered a more simplified and 

complete solution to the specific requirements of fine 

leather manufacturing. 

Further product-firsts for the region included extensions 

to Clariant’s finishing and wet-end solutions, alongside 

its established industry standard - setting innovation, 

EasyWhite Tan. 


LEATHER 

Highlights for IILF 2013 visitors included 

Productivity and environmental - 

compatibility 

The highly transparent Neosan® Lucido 

pigment range is a new dimension in brilliant 

colors in pure aqueous finishing. This unique, 

more ecological and versatile pigment series 

is based on a nanotechnology type of pigment 

dispersion and creates many opportunities in 

both anionic and cationic finishing systems. 

Neosan Lucido provides both a very elegant 

aniline like appearance for classical articles 

as well as highly fashionable and brilliant 

shades without performance limitations (e.g. 

migrations). 

New high gloss aqueous patent topcoat 

Aqualen Top APT is recognized as a 

breakthrough in water-based finishing 

systems replacing solvent-based topcoats. 

Clariant’s new Melio® 09-W-84 – a new 

generation of aqueous top coats for shiny 

tips effect along with waxes for fashionable 

effects. Melio Wax W-01 & Melio Wax 145 

will also be highlighted. 

Clariant’s industry standard - setting 

innovation Easy White Tan provides an 

environmentally more compatible, safer 

and simplified tanning process that will 

have major benefits for tanners supplying 

almost every sector, from automotive leather 

to footwear. This technology has been 

developed using Clariant’s Granofin® Easy 

F-90 Liquid, an organic compound that is 

not based on chrome, phenols or aldehydes. 

It removes the need to add salt during the 

tanning process as well as reducing the 

number of stages in the tanning process 

itself. 

Efficiency and high - performance 

functionality 

Clariant unveiled a compact range of syntans 

offering high economy as well as meeting 

the latest formaldehyde - free specifications: 

Tanicor® RS-38 Powder, Tanicor RS-40 

Powder and Tergotan® RE-5020 Powder. New 

waterproofing agent Dermaphob® WA-71 is 

a highlight from Clariant’s wet end range, 

specially developed for high - performance 

water repellent shoe uppers. The new Melio 

Softfix ANV was also revealed offering the 

tanner a working solution to the age old 

problem of improving fastness on nubuck/ 

suede leathers whilst maintaining their 

natural beauty and aesthetics. 

Clariant’s cutting edge solution to antisoiling 

properties for sofa leathers was also 

a key highlight depicting the “Beauty of 

Resistance”. 

Clariant shares your passion for perfect 

leather dyeing with its “Best Performance – 

Cost Effective Dermapel® Range of Dyes”. 

Inspiring trends and invigorating 

fashions 

To inspire and invigorate, Clariant also 

presented its new Global Color Card – 

developed in close co-operation with 

MODEUROP, the Fashion Pool at DSI (Das 

Schuhinstitut GmbH) – as well as its latest 

fashion trend collection for season Spring 

Summer 2014. 

The show ended on 3rd February with a 

positive note and overwhelming response 

from our customers “R. Kumaresan, India 

Head of Leather Services commented, “IILF 

2013 was very successful with around 400 

visitors to our stall. Out of which 110 were 

serious customers who had given enquiry 

for further developments. I have seen most 

of the big South accounts visiting our stall 

and showing special interest, esp Drish, Tata, 

SAF Bangladesh and few big accounts from 

Kolkata and Kanpur as well. We have seen 

participation from most of our distributor 

partners (even from North) also visiting the 

stall, a good opportunity to showcase our 

strong brand equity and motivate them to 

approach customers confidently. The concept 

showcased in the fair, am sure, was well - 

received by the media and our customers. 

Special thanks and congratulations to all of 

our internal, global and local colleagues for 

a very professional stall design, combined 

with all required functionality, especially the 

promotional printed materials, promotional 

films and the ipads (with technical recipes 

& films) displayed were first class and 

appreciated by many customers/distributors. 

The efforts put paid well. The fashion corner, 

the furniture collection displayed were 

well-received by customers which clearly 

explained our concept for the fair. Overall, 

we made a successful show in the IILF 2013 

attracting many customers and generating lot 

of technical projects for the coming months.” 


GLEANINGS FROM THE PRESS 

Global Cotton 

Demand rising 

Global cotton demand will rise this year as 

rising consumption in countries like India 

and Pakistan offsets a drop in demand 

from China, the world’s No 1 producer and 

consumer, to its lowest level in decade, a US 

industry body said recently. Chinese mills 

are buying less raw cotton because they 

are importing more yarn, a semi-processed 

product, or switching to cheaper man-made 

fibre. Mills are struggling because they have 

been hurt by Beijing’s policy to support its 

farmers. 

World mill use will increase to 108.7 

mn bales, up 2.5 per cent from 2012, the 

National Cotton Council (NCC) has forecast 

International mill demand outside of China 

estimated to increase by 5.7 per cent for the 

2013 crop year, with more than half of the 

growth being accounted for by India and 

Pakistan. But mill demand in China, the 

world’s largest textile market, will decline 

3 per cent to 34.3 mn bales in the 2012-13 

marketing year. That would be the lowest 

since 2003-04 when the world’s secondlargest 

economy’s massive boom was taking 

off and down almost a third from the 2007-08 

peak of 51 mn bales. 

– Knitting Views, Jan-Feb 2013 

China cotton production 2012-13 

Larger than expected 

Chinese cotton production for 2012/13 is 

estimated at 33.5 mn bales (7.3 mn tonne), up 

2.0 mn, or 6.0 per cent, from last month and 

up 1 per cent from last year. The estimated 

output is slightly below the five - year average 

and well below the record set in 2007/08 

(37.0 mn bales). The estimated area of 

5.2 mn hectares is up 4 per cent this month 

but down 4 per cent last year. Yield is 

estimated at 1,403 Kg per hectare, up 2 per 

cent from last month and up 5 per cent from 

last year. Record yields in Northwest China 

are expected to offset yield reductions in 

Eastern China, which suffered from excessive 

rainfall and typhoon damage during the latter 

part of the growing season. The revisions 

are based on procurement and classification 

data published by official Chinese sources, 

which indicate greater than expected output 

in 2012/13. The increased production came 

almost entirely from Xinjiang Province 

(Northwest China), which now accounts 

for more than half of China’s cotton crop. 

Favourable weather, increased planted 

area, heavy investment in irrigation and 

mechanization, and supportive government 

procurement policies have all contributed to 

the remarkable output in Xinjiang this year. 


Apparel exports 

Can treble on Central 

incentive 

The apparel industry will be able to treble 

exports within three years if the Center 

allows it to utilise 15 per cent of the export 

turnover to improve raw materials such as 

synthetic fabrics that are not available in the 

country, AEPC has said, particularly apparel 

and knitwear garments, going by increased 

orders in the last two months, Apparel Export 

Promotion Council (AEPC) Chairman Dr. A. 

Sakthivel said in Tirupur. 


Arvind acquires 

Hanes Brands India operation 

Soon after the acquisition of the business 

operations of British fashion retailers 

Debenhams, Next and American Lifestyle 

Brand Nautica in India, Arvind Lifestyle 

has announced the acquisition of the Hanes 

Brand India operations. Arvind has signed 

an agreement to market and sell basic and 

intimate apparel in the country under the 

Hanes and Wonderbra brands, under a 

licensing agreement with US-based Hanes 

brands Inc. The transaction marks Arvind 

Lifestyles entry into the highly lucrative 

market of branded apparel essentials with 

lingeries and undergarments. Arvind plans 

to increase the Hanes point of sales in India 

from the present 5,000 to 15,000 in the next 

three years and to grow Hanes Vertical 

within the company to achieve ` 500 cr 

revenues over next four years. 


Arvind, Welspun 

Textile-park setup in Gujarat 

In a boost to the textile industry in Gujarat, 

two Industry biggies Arvind and Welspun 

India are set to invest in integrated textile 

parks and manufacturing facilities. After 

investing in its own denim, spinning, shirting, 

real estate and other business, Ahmedabad 

- based textile conglomerate Arvind is now 

said to be investing around ` 2,000 cr in an 

integrated textile park. On the other hand 

Welspun is planning to invest close to ` 3,000 

cr for an integrated manufacturing plant. 


India slaps 16 per cent duty 

On RMG imports from 

Bangladesh 

Export of ready-made garments (RMG) to 

India would face a major setback as the big 

neighbour’s Parliament slapped nearly 16 per 

cent countervailing duty (CVD) on imports of 

the products from Bangladesh, RMG sector 

insiders said. The Indian measure came 

when the RMG exporters in Bangladesh 

started viewing the neighbouring country as 

the biggest export destination after the US 

and the EU following Delhi’s withdrawal of 

import duty on 48 garment products last year. 

Despite many barriers like devaluation of 

the Indian rupee against the US dollar or the 

Lilliput debt issue, the growth in RMG export 

to India marked a notable rise - nearly 35 per 

cent in the first seven months of the current 

financial year, according to the research cell 

of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and 

Exporters Association (BGMEA). 

– Apparel Views, March 13, 2013 

Punjab - New Industrial policy 

To boost Textile industry 

The government of the North-Western 

Indian State of Punjab will be implementing 

a “New Industrial Promotion Policy” from 

April 1, 2013, which would greatly boost the 

textile industry in the State. Speaking at the 

North India Textile Conclave 2013, organized 

by Confederation of Indian Textile Industry 

(CITI) in Chandigarh, Punjab Deputy Chief 

Minister Sukhbir Singh Badal, who is also the 

Minister for Investment Promotion, said the 

State is now ready to unveil a revolutionary 

industrial invest promotion policy. He said 

the policy has been framed on the basis of 

suggestions received from a core team of 

industrial experts as well as the Governance 

Reforms Commission. 

– Apparel Views, March 2013 



Indian textile industry 

` 1,58,000 crore growth by 

2016 

The Government of India, in its 12th 

Five Year plan has allocated funds to the 

development of Centre’s of Excellence (CoE) 

for various Technical Textiles Sectors. The 

upcoming CoE’s, that have been established 

very recently, are for non-wovens and 

Medical in Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur, and for 

the Sports sector in Mumbai for Composites 

in Ahmedabad and for the Industrial 

application of textiles in Coimbatore, Tamil 

Nadu. 

– Textile News, April 8, 2013 

OEKO-TEX® 

Honours Sustainable Textile 

Production 

To honour the achievements of OEKO-TEX® 

certified companies who have shown special 

commitment to the issue of sustainability, the 

OEKO-TEX® Association will be presenting 

the Sustainability Award for the first time 

on June 12, 2013 during an evening event in 

Frankfurt. The award presentation will also 

mark the official start of the new OEKO- 

TEX® certification called ‘Sustainable Textile 

Production (STeP)’ which will replace the 

current OEKO-TEX® Standard 1000. 


India achieves 

US $1 bn carpet export target 

in 2012-13 

India has successfully achieved the US$ 1 

billion carpet export target set for the last 

financial year. According to the Carpet 

Export Promotion Council (CEPC) statistics, 

with a 12 per cent rise over 2011-12’s exports 

of US$ 955 million, India exported US$ 1.07 

billion worth of carpets during 2012-13. 

CEPC Chairman, Siddh Nath Singh, 

attributed the rise in carpet exports to robust 

demand from new markets like China, US 

and Latin America, alongside traditional US 

market, Economic Times reported quoting 

PTI. 

Singh said that the demand from the EU 

market, however, remained subdued during 

the year. The EU and the US together account 

for around 60 per cent of India’s overall 

carpet exports. The segments that tapped 

highest export growth during last financial 

year include handmade silk carpets with 

44 per cent growth, handmade woollen 

tufted carpets with 23 per cent growth and 

synthetic carpets with 17 per cent growth. 

Posting a year-on-year rise of 29 per cent, 

exports of these items reached US$ 164 

million in March 2013. More than one million 

people in India depend on carpet export 

sector for livelihood. 

– fibre2fashion, April 16, 2013 

Mafatlal Group 

Eyes to become ` 15 bn 

company by 2016-17 

Arvind Mafatlal Group, one of India’s leading 

vertically-integrated textiles producing 

company with a turnover of ` 8.2 billion, 

intends to grow into a ` 15 billion company 

by 2016-17, Hrishikesh Mafatlal, Chairman 

of Arvind Mafatlal Group said in his keynote 

address at an international conference in 

Ahmedabad. 

Mafatlal Group is also venturing in the home 

furnishing space, Mr. Mafatlal said on the 

sidelines of the conference jointly organized 

by Textile Association of India (TAI), Textile 

Manufacturers Association and Ahmedabadbased 

Diagonal Consulting. 


SGS 

Opens modern lab in Chennai 

SGS India has announced that its largest 

laboratory and facility has been officially 

opened by Chris Kirk, Chief Executive 

Officer, SGS Ltd in December 2012 in 

Chennai, India. Located at Ambattur, 

Chennai, the facility houses multiple stateof-the-art 

laboratories along with inspection 

and audit services. 

The new state-of-the-art facility in Chennai 

has been designed to offer testing, inspection 

and certification services for textile, footwear, 

PPE, food, environmental, agricultural, 

minerals, and industrial products. The 

laboratory and facility adheres to the best 

quality standards set by the industry and 

regulatory bodies alike. 

– Textile News, March 26, 2013 

Polytex USA introduces 

Star Artificial Turf Yarn 

Polytex USA — a Calhoun, Ga.-based 

manufacturer of mono-filaments, texturized 

yarn and fibrillated products for the artificial 

turf industry — has introduced Star, a starshaped 

artificial turf mono-filament yarn. 

The 1,800-denier, 315-micron-thick yarn 

features an extra-wide blade design 

measuring 1.35 millimeters that offers a more 

natural look and better in-fill coverage than 

are achieved using traditional turf yarns. It 

has been optimized for abrasion resistance 

and durability, and testing using the Lisport® 

wear tester has shown the yarn can endure 

55,000 cycles without fibre splicing, Polytex 

USA reports. Star yarn may be manufactured 

in either a single or dual tone. 


Siyaram’s 

Adds Two Vibrant Collections 

under Royale Linen 

Siyaram’s aims for a strong brand portfolio 

consisting of popular brands like Siyaram’s, 

Royale Linen, J. Hampstead, Oxemberg, 

Mistair and Casa Moda to name a few. It is 

perhaps the only player in the industry that 

has a brand catering to each segment in the 

textile space. Siyaram Silk Mills Ltd is the 

largest producer of blended high fashion 

suitings, shirtings and apparels. The leaders 

in business for over three decades producing 

over 60 million meters per annum with an 

unparallel network of 1,00,000 retailers and 

over 450 dealer network Pan India with a 

sales force of over 650 dedicated employees. 

Siyaram’s belief in providing value to its 

customers is the reason behind it having 

the widest range of latest machinery in its 

eco-friendly plants at Tarapur, Daman and 

Silvassa. 


Vinegar 

Spreading its wings beyond 

India 

“Like vinegar, though colourless adds a 

unique flavor to the food, in the same way a 

dash of Vinegar clothing adds flavor and life 

to one’s wardrobe,” says Varsha Bhawnani, 

Director, Vinegar Exports, while elaborating 



on the brand Vinegar’s USP. With a turnover 

of ` 14-15 crores and expecting a Y-O-Y 

growth of 25-30 per cent, the brand is all set 

to expand its footprint in India and beyond. 

“In retail, we plan to open 4-6 more stores 

and penetrate further into European and 

Asian markets. We have started shop-inshops 

in Australia and plan to open stores 

in Delhi, Hyderabad, Bangalore, and Pune 

and later into Tier II, III cities through the 

franchise route. Countries such as Singapore, 

Australia, Dubai and other Middle-Eastern 

countries such as Saudi Arabia and Kuwait 

are also on the radar,” Bhawnani adds. 

Vinegar, she says is a high fashion brand for 

women, strictly creating designs and styles 

that are imaginative, truly inspired and 

radical. “Vinegar is positioned as a brand 

that creates distinct, memorable fashion 

statements that go against all conventional 

and orthodox norms of fashion design. The 

creations are made-up of color and vibrancy 

and embellished with a bit of ‘the edge’ and 

‘the out-there’ taking direct inspiration from 

the free-spirited, fearless nature a woman 

essentially needs to have,” she explains. 


TAI 

Launches Website 

The Textile Association (India), the 

largest professional organisation having 

more than 23,000 memberships with 27 

affiliated chapters, is committed to promote 

and protect trade & business and trading 

activities in textile industry. During last 

year, TAI has made significant progress and 

increased its reach through re-designed 

website. It is now planning to move a step 

ahead and enable advertising opportunities 

on its www.textileassociationindia.org to 

interested industrialists and advertisers. 


Stork Prints 

Debuts NovaScreen® for 

Textile Printing 

The Netherlands-based textile and graphics 

printing equipment supplier Stork Prints 

BV has developed a new hybrid screen 

for the textile printing market. The new 

NovaScreen® 195-19% is a combination of the 

existing open area NovaScreen 165 (mesh) 

screen and the high-resolution NovaScreen 

195 (mesh) screen. The hybrid screen offers 

printers that require voluminous paste supply 

a high-resolution option with improved paste 

flow and printability. 

Stork reports primary benefits of the new 

screen include: high screen volume and 

high printing resolution; improved surface 

printing; and benefits in geometric printing. 


Swedish apparel retailer H&M 

Ready for launch in India 

Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), the world’s 

second-largest apparel retailer, has begun 

process of filing its application with the 

Government of India seeking permission to 

open wholly-owned single-brand retail stores 

in India. 

H&M CEO, Karl Johan Persson, who met 

India’s Commerce and Industry Minister 

Anand Sharma in New Delhi, told reporters 

after the meeting that the budget apparel 

chain is currently in the application process, 

according to fibre2fashion. 


Aditya Birla Group 

Increase in Production of 

Linen Fabric 

Aditya Birla group’s Jaya Shree Textiles has 

plans to increase the production of linen 

fabric in view of growing demand for the 

texture in the domestic dress market, a senior 

company official has said. 

“We have plans to increase the production 

of linen to cater to the growing demand 

for our own branded Linen Club and for 

other leading garment brands that bring out 

ready-made wear using the fabric”, Textiles 

Division, President, S. Krisnamoorthy said. 

– Financial Express, March 9, 2013 

Proline 

Fitness clothing segment 

Proline, India’s original sportswear brand is 

all set to launch ‘Proline Active’ an exclusive 

range of performance enhancing clothes 

that help sportsmen and fitness enthusiasts 

compete at the cutting edge of performance. 

It is an exceptional range of fitness clothing 

for both men and women who want to 

look their best while working out and feel 

comfortable. 

‘Proline active’ is all about smart fitness. 

The range is categorised into two categories 

on the basis of its functionality for both 

men and women - Active performance 

and Active Fashion. Active performance 

includes garments with properties like 

moisture management, four way stretch, 

odour reduction, temperature regulation, 

shape retention and light weight that aids 

the performance of the wearer. The Active 

performance category offers an exclusive 

collection of compression gear. There are 

many possible mechanisms such as body 

temperature regulation and seamless 

construction via which the compression 

gear enhances performance in power based 

activities like sprinting, cycling, skating etc. 

The range also introduces the first of its kind 

‘Active Cotton’ range in the fitness clothing 

category. Active cotton offers better breath 

ability and the pro dry technique helps 

reduce body temperature which improves 

moisture evaporation. 

– Fashion News, April 10, 2013 

Decathalon 

Auchan opens first retail store 

French group Auchan has announced 

opening of its first retail store, Decathalon, 

in Bangalore, the first big-format niche retail 

chain in India. The 43 billion euros (` 30,028 

crores) French group’s venture is one of the 

early bird licences under a new investment 

policy which allows 100 per cent foreign 

funding of single-brand retail stores. 

Auchan’s proposal to invest ` 700 crores got 

a nod on February 13, the same day that the 

FIPB also cleared single-brand retail plans of 

Promod SAS, Le Creuset and Fossil. Most of 

Decathalon’s stores now sport an ‘open to all’ 

sign to indicate the change in its policy. The 

company does not have a clear competitor as 

the sports goods retail market in India. It has 

been present in the wholesale market with 

a cash-and-carry model for the past three 

years. This would be the first test of big- 



format retail’s impact on small merchants in a 

niche segment. 

– Fashion United, April 10, 2013 

Indian govt 

Urges cotton yarn producers 

to cut prices 

Textiles Ministry of India has called on the 

domestic cotton yarn producers to maintain 

the prices of their produce at low levels, so 

as to avert any negative impact on any of the 

textile industry segments, particularly the 

powerloom sector, ZeeBiz said quoting PTI. 

During a stakeholders meeting held to 

discuss the issues confronting the country’s 

textile and apparel industry, Textiles 

Secretary Zohra Chatterjee urged the cotton 

yarn producers to reduce prices to avoid 

the need for any Government intervention, 

Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) 

Chairman A Sakthivel said. 

Over the past few weeks, cotton yarn prices 

have experienced a sharp rise of about 20 

per cent causing several powerlooms to 

face difficulties, consequently leading to job 

losses. 

This is because local garment exporters 

procure orders four to six months in advance 

quoting prices on the basis of cotton yarn 

prices then prevailing in the market. But 

now as the cotton yarn prices have gone up 

unexpectedly, all their calculations have gone 

wrong, and they cannot even add new profit 

margin, as most of the times the orders have 

been grabbed amid tough competition, the 

AEPC Chairman explained. 


Delhi 

To host ICAHT-2013 this 

September 

The 9th International Conference on Apparel 

& Home Textiles (ICAHT-2013) organised 

by OGTC, would be held on September 

20 and 21, 2013 at India Habitat Centre in 

New Delhi. The underlying theme of the 

conference is based upon creative thinking. 

Through this cross-disciplinary event, the 

idea is to explore creativity and the creative 

process through the lenses of imagination 

and innovation. 

According to an estimate, the global apparel 

industry will reach a value of 1,800 billion 

dollars (` 96,66,000 crores) by the end of 

2013. This is inspiring apparel manufacturers 

to adopt new techniques to increase trade. 

New business models and competitive 

strategies are being used to enhance profits. 

– Fashion United, May 5, 2013 

Indian textile sector 

Keen to explore emerging 

markets 

Indian textile and garment manufacturers are 

eyeing on emerging markets, including South 

America, Japan, Australia, New Zealand and 

Africa, for exports. 

According to industry representatives, Indian 

textile sector witnessed a negative growth 

mainly due to decline in clothing exports in 

2012-13. However, exports to non-traditional 

markets recorded positive growth during this 

period and the textile and apparel makers 

expect the growth to continue in the current 

fiscal year. 

Speaking to fibre2fashion, secretary of 

Confederation of Indian Textile Industry 

(CITI), D.K. Nair said, “Last fiscal year may 

have ended with a negative growth in exports 

of textiles, basically because of the decline 

in garment exports. But now the demand for 

our garments has started improving in the 

traditional markets and exports to some new 

markets have also started growing. Thus, 

our exports of textiles during 2013-14 are 

expected to register a significant positive 

growth.” 


Freecultr, Lecoanet Hemant 

Team up for new collection 

The Fashion Freedom Project by Freecultr 

delivers innovative design collaborations 

leading to commercial concepts that benefit 

its consumers. In the first series of its 

collaborations, designer Lecoanet Hemant 

has designed a capsule collection targeted at 

a wider audience and delivered at affordable 

price points with perfect fits. 

“This collaboration marks a new and exciting 

chapter in our world of fashion. It bridges 

the design aesthetic of our luxury offering 

in menswear with the innovation and reach 

of our favourite e-high street brand – a new 

voice for our vision,” says Hemant Sagar. The 

collection focuses on freedom of expression 

for every age wardrobe. Inspired by the 

urban man who loves to travel, the collection 

consists of semi-casual shirts, trousers, 

T-shirts and shorts in pastel colors and travel 

bags to complete the look. 


Raymond 

Sets focus on growth and 

profitability 

After focusing on consolidation and margin 

improvement for a year, apparel maker 

Raymond intends to return its sights to 

growth and higher profitability in the current 

fiscal year. Raymond’s newly appointed chief 

financial officer M. Shivkumar has indicated 

that the company’s net debt may go up by 

` 150-200 crores this fiscal owing to the 

company’s capital expenditure plans. 

Around ` 342 crores of debt is due for 

repayment in the third and fourth quarters 

of 2013-14, which will be replaced by longterm 

debt, or other loans, he said. Raymond 

appointed consultancy Accenture Plc last 

year for a margin improvement programme 

and consolidated its apparel business 

structure to improve cost efficiency. These 

measures have resulted in the firm boosting 

cash flow from operations by 42 per cent 

to ` 326 crores in the year ended March, 

according to brokerage Phillip Capital 

(India). 


Corneliani partners 

OLS Luxury for India business 

Corneliani has chosen to partner with OLS 

Luxury, the luxury division of the Orissa 

Stevedores group, owned by the Mishra 

family. The company is also reported to be 



in talks with other big luxury names to help 

them enter the Indian market. Over the 

past few years, Corneliani has opened four 

stores in India: one in New Delhi, two in 

Mumbai and one in Bangalore and looking 

at further expansion in the country in places 

like Chandigarh, Kolkata, Pune and Chennai 

to develop a strong retail network in at least 

seven or eight of the prime 14 Indian cities. 

This is merely a first step for OSL Luxury 

into the fashion segment, as they aim to bring 

a number of renowned brand names into the 

market. 

With its Italian suit-making expertise and 

exclusive fabrics from manufacturer Biella, 

the company has strong growth potential 

in India. The brand recently unveiled its 

Spring/Summer’13 collection consisting 

of nappa leather trench coat with laser 

openwork, washed with natural enzymes to 

give it a well-worn and light look. The fabrics 

are made by weaving shot silks and linens 

together and are inspired by winter tweeds. 

Colours are light in cool tones from mastic to 

brown and pearl grey, as well as total white 

and total black. 


Texprocess 2013 

Innovative IT solutions 

IT solutions rank among the most important 

driving forces of innovation in the apparel 

industry and support the entire value chain 

from raw materials to retail sales. Employing 

the latest information technology, resources 

and energy can be used efficiently and 

production processes made more transparent 

and accelerated. At Texprocess, Leading 

International Trade Fair for Processing 

Textile and Flexible Materials, in Frankfurt 

am Main from 10 to 13 June 2013, IT 

companies will present their newest software 

systems for the apparel industry in Hall 4.0. 

The IT Texprocess, Successful Software 

Solutions for the Fashion Industry market 

place offers manufacturers and users an 

optimum platform for discussing important 

issues with colleagues and business partners. 

At present, the attention of IT professionals 

is focused on continuity, interfaces, cloud 

usage, virtual fashion design and tablet and 

smartphone solutions. 

Besides IT, the product spectrum at 

Texprocess covers the entire process 

chain from design and cutting, via sewing, 

joining, embroidery and knitting, to 

finishing, dressing, printing and logistics. 

At the Leading International Trade Fair for 

Processing Textile and Flexible Materials, 

around 300 manufacturers from all over 

the world present their solutions for the 

challenges facing tomorrow’s fashion 

industry. 


Do U Speak Green 

Taking the green cause 

beyond India 

Do U Speak Green has become India’s first 

webstore selling eco-friendly product range. 

“We aim to make Do U Speak Green the 

world’s best eco clothing brand. We have a 

turnover of ` 50-60 lakh at the moment, and 

our growth rate is 40 per cent year-on-year,” 

says an optimistic Shishir Goenka, Director, 

Do U Speak Green. 

The brand launched three years back is 

witnessing steady growth in a challenging 

market, where awareness about ecofriendly 

clothing is gradually setting in. 

“Domestically it’s a big challenge for us but 

we are growing slowly and the percentage 

has increased especially in certain markets. 

We wanted to contribute a part of our 

sales to environmental conservation, so we 

thought the best way to do this would be 

using natural fabrics and also the style should 

promote concern for the environment. If 

you see our website, the triple bottom line 

approach where we try to help socially, 

environmentally and economically. So we 

have a graph there,” explains Goenka. 

The brand has a strong presence online and 

has a few stores stocking organic products 

in cities like Goa, Delhi and Mumbai. “We 

are also present in some 10-12 Mahindra 

Holiday resorts and export to Europe, the 

US, Australia,” he says. Do U Speak Green is 

registered as a trade mark brand in Europe, 

US and Canada. 


COLOUR CHRONICLE 

JUNE 2013 

IMPRESSUM 

Publisher 

CLARIANT CHEMICALS (INDIA) LIMITED. 

COMMUNICATIONS SERVICES 

Kolshet Road, Gate no. 2 

P.O. Sandoz Baug 

Thane 400 607 

WWW.CLARIANT.IN 

Editor-in-Chief 

Prabhat Trivedi 

prabhat.trivedi@clariant.com 

Contributing Editors/Writers 

Rajendra Gode 

Tushar Choudhury 

U.S. Shashikeerthy 

Nirmal Punjabi 

Consulting Editor 

Philips Abraham 

Artwork, Design Support 

mail@pointnpixel.com 

Print Service 

multiple.studio@gmail.com 

Picture credits 

All photos by Clariant except cover page and 

page nos. 1, 2, 6 and 15 from shutterstock.com 

To submit story-ideas, call us at 

+91 22 2531 5487 or 

email: rajendra.gode@clariant.com 

For private use only © Clariant 2013. 


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Colour Chronicle - June 2013

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