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NORDIC SKI PREPARATION

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SWIX HARD WAXES<br />

AND KLISTERS<br />

About Kick Waxing in General<br />

It is relatively simple to apply kick waxes with<br />

some experience and knowledge of the performance<br />

of the waxes you are using; however, the<br />

most experienced skier can still become confused<br />

before a race. Nerves are brittle and wax tips<br />

come from all over. This racing manual will give<br />

you some helpful advice and guidelines for competitions<br />

and will give you information that will<br />

improve your everyday skiing experience, both for<br />

touring and training.<br />

In many situations, ski waxing means compromising.<br />

The final goal is superb kick and great<br />

glide; however, many times the conditions are<br />

variable and that can make this goal difficult. Most<br />

important is to find the best balance between kick<br />

and glide that will give you the best overall performance.<br />

A common mistake is to wax too slippery.<br />

Skiers are afraid of loosing glide and wax either<br />

too thin or too hard a wax. Experience tells us that<br />

a racer will lose more time uphill, due to bad kick<br />

than gaining speed on the downhill with good<br />

glide. Swix wants to kill the myth that top-racers<br />

use slippery skis to gain better glide. Truth is that<br />

many racers apply kick waxes somewhat softer<br />

than what is suggested by temperature, create a<br />

longer kick zone and wax thicker than many recreational<br />

skiers might believe.<br />

We will start with a few, general tips, based<br />

upon many years of field experience by the Swix<br />

World Cup service team. Following the guidelines<br />

written below we will give you a good foundation<br />

for making waxing decisions in stressful and difficult<br />

situations.<br />

• Remember, practice makes perfect. The more<br />

you test and experiment during training the better<br />

you will be able to wax for competitions.<br />

• Do not experiment with products or wax combinations<br />

that you have not previously used in<br />

training.<br />

• When you are out training and you have poorly<br />

performing skis, take the additional 5 minutes to<br />

stop and re-wax. It makes no sense to continue on<br />

bad skis.<br />

To see and learn how to wax correctly please visit<br />

www.swixschool.com. Also remember the Swix<br />

Wax Wizard at our web site www.swixsport.com.<br />

Sanding of the Kick Zone<br />

As a general rule, the kick zone usually starts at<br />

the heel and goes 65-70 cm forward. Most shops<br />

who specialize in selling racing skis will be able<br />

to make an exact measurement of the kick zone.<br />

You might get an approximate idea yourself by<br />

using the “paper method”. Place the skis on the<br />

floor. Stand on both skis, with half of your body<br />

weight on each ski. Let somebody move a piece<br />

of paper forward and backward between the ski<br />

and the floor. Make a sign at the points where the<br />

paper meets resistance.<br />

Use sandpaper to treat the kick zone.<br />

You might use a special cork (T11) with #100<br />

grit sandpaper on one side or a paper (T330).<br />

Move the paper in both directions. Do not sand<br />

sideways as this could round the edges of the ski,<br />

this will make work later on with the iron less precise.<br />

A new ski or a new stone grained ski needs<br />

thorough treatment, while a pre sanded ski only<br />

needs a few additional passes with sandpaper.<br />

Sanding of the kick zone is also done before each<br />

race. Always sand after the treatment of the glide<br />

zones has been completed. Avoid fluoro powder<br />

remaining in the kick zone before kick waxing;<br />

otherwise, the adhesion of the wax is critically<br />

reduced. Make a distinct divide between the glide<br />

and kick zone by applying a small piece of tape to<br />

separate the zones. Remove dirt and burr with<br />

Fiberlene (T150) before applying the kick wax.<br />

Tip:<br />

Take a cork or a sanding block and fold the sandpaper<br />

around it. Use it on the edge at the point<br />

exactly where you start the sanding.<br />

Application of Hard Waxes<br />

In most cases we recommend to apply base wax<br />

(VG35) as a first layer. For longer distances or<br />

on aggressive snow, this is a safe choice. On less<br />

aggressive snow (cold, fine grained snow) we recommend<br />

the base wax VG30 as first layer.<br />

VG30<br />

BLUE BASE WAX<br />

+1°C to -20°C (30°F to -4°F).<br />

To be used as first layer for all<br />

hard waxes in new and fine<br />

grained snow.<br />

VG35<br />

GREEN BASE BINDER<br />

-1°C to -22°C (30°F to -7°F).<br />

A durable base wax for the<br />

VR- and V-waxes, for coarse<br />

grained and old snow colder<br />

than -1°C (30°F).<br />

We recommend using an iron when applying<br />

base wax. Apply a thin layer and iron it into the<br />

base (iron temp. 110°C) until it completely covers<br />

the entire sanded area. After the treatment you<br />

may want to make a few passes with a waxing<br />

cork, let the ski cool before applying a layer of<br />

V30. Iron once more using only light pressure to<br />

prevent the two layers from mixing. Finish with<br />

light corking and let the ski cool off to outside<br />

temperature before applying today’s wax.<br />

Base waxes are frequently used in top level<br />

racing in conditions demanding dry / hard waxes.<br />

Many of the best national teams now consequently<br />

prefer Swix base waxes. In citizen races<br />

accurate base-waxing is decisive. Both VG35 and<br />

VG30 hold the ordinary dry-waxes, conserving the<br />

kick, without reducing the kick.<br />

Tip:<br />

Base wax is much easier to apply when it is cold.<br />

Store it in the fridge or in the snow before application.<br />

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