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talking about how strong a Land Rover is, that its age was<br />
actually a benefit because it was so easy <strong>to</strong> fix, and that it would<br />
carry us <strong>the</strong> length of Africa and back. Before I realized it, we<br />
had plans <strong>to</strong> meet over <strong>the</strong> weekend. Andrew thought that I had<br />
gone soft in <strong>the</strong> head. What did we know about cars? We were<br />
city folk. We were edi<strong>to</strong>rs, for God’s sake! I rarely drove, had no<br />
idea how <strong>to</strong> drive a stick shift, and had never put my head under<br />
<strong>the</strong> hood of a car.<br />
Oh, but it was love at first sight. My eyes glazed over, my<br />
heart skipped a beat. She was beautiful—classic Land Rover<br />
green with a white tropical roof. Andrew was smitten, <strong>to</strong>o. The<br />
Land Rover cupid drilled us both through <strong>the</strong> heart with a<br />
hypoid-filled arrow. We leaped at Scotty’s suggestion that we<br />
take it for a test drive, but we lost courage when he mentioned<br />
<strong>the</strong> need <strong>to</strong> double-clutch in<strong>to</strong> second gear. Double-clutch?<br />
Instead, Scotty did <strong>the</strong> honors, while we piled in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> front seat<br />
next <strong>to</strong> him.<br />
I sat in <strong>the</strong> middle, with my legs draped over Andrew. Scotty<br />
started her up. She purred. He put her in gear and we were off.<br />
He demonstrated double clutching, low range, and high range.<br />
Andrew listened <strong>to</strong> Scotty intently, but it all flowed over me - I<br />
was simply trying <strong>to</strong> control my excitement. What <strong>the</strong> heck was<br />
that smell? It was an aphrodisiac. You know exactly what I’m<br />
talking about. It’s about as far from that new car smell as you<br />
can get. It’s <strong>the</strong> lovely aroma of hypoid and lightly fried Lucas<br />
electrics.<br />
Scotty operated his own Land Rover repair shop, so we<br />
made an offer for <strong>the</strong> Series II that included mechanic lessons,<br />
spare parts, and a roof rack. For <strong>the</strong> next three months, we<br />
tackled one major maintenance job each week. But something<br />
wasn’t quite right. Scotty addressed almost all his comments<br />
about mechanics <strong>to</strong> Andrew, leaving me as note-taker. I half<br />
expected <strong>to</strong> be asked <strong>to</strong> make coffee. I know cars have long<br />
been <strong>the</strong> domain of men, but I was damned if I was going <strong>to</strong> be<br />
passenger on this adventure. Put simply, Scotty was going <strong>to</strong><br />
shift gears, double clutch himself, so <strong>to</strong> speak, and teach me. To<br />
his credit, he made <strong>the</strong> adjustment without grinding gears.<br />
Soon enough, my nails were as black with grease as<br />
Andrew’s. Over <strong>the</strong> ensuing weeks, Scotty gave me a crash<br />
course in Land Rover repair, including how <strong>to</strong> change <strong>the</strong><br />
exhaust-manifold gasket (how cool was that!), adjust <strong>the</strong><br />
brakes, and replace <strong>the</strong> genera<strong>to</strong>r with a marine alterna<strong>to</strong>r.<br />
I skinned my knuckles removing stubborn bolts, covered myself<br />
in oil, and sported an array of unsightly bruises.<br />
Meanwhile, Scotty advised us on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>ols, spares, and<br />
equipment we would need on our journey, everything from<br />
spanners and ratchet sets <strong>to</strong> rear axles (a potential field<br />
weakness on Series Rovers, we discovered) and high-lift jacks.<br />
As <strong>the</strong> list of our equipment grew longer and longer,<br />
it became clear that we were facing a serious space problem.<br />
The roof rack was off limits—we planned <strong>to</strong> pitch our tent up<br />
<strong>the</strong>re as protection from both animals and people—leaving no<br />
room for our 10 jerrycans or second spare wheel.<br />
The inside of our 88” was already full. We had built two<br />
large, lockable wooden boxes <strong>to</strong> fit snugly inside <strong>the</strong> back of <strong>the</strong><br />
Land Rover. The boxes held our food and medical supplies,<br />
clo<strong>the</strong>s, camera equipment, lap<strong>to</strong>p, and key spare parts. We<br />
had smaller plastic s<strong>to</strong>rage bins with tight-fitting lids stacked<br />
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