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Stayin’ Cool:<br />
Making <strong>the</strong> Most of Your Series<br />
S<strong>to</strong>ry by: Chris<strong>to</strong>pher S. Berdy<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s by: Ka<strong>the</strong>rine S. Berdy<br />
[Chris<strong>to</strong>pher Berdy practices law and lives with his family in<br />
Birmingham, AL.. To break <strong>the</strong> boredom, he entertains himself<br />
with his 1970 Series IIA 88” SW. Here’s his tale of getting more out<br />
of his Rover –ed.]<br />
Spring is my favorite time of year…warm days, cool nights, fishing,<br />
camping, and my son’s T-ball games. Unfortunately, in Birmingham,<br />
Alabama, a blistering summer always interrupts a <strong>to</strong>o short spring.<br />
For a Series Land Rover owner in <strong>the</strong> South, <strong>the</strong> heat-retaining<br />
properties of an aluminum hard<strong>to</strong>p prove <strong>to</strong> be a highly unattractive<br />
quality in <strong>the</strong> sweltering summer months. While I laugh at <strong>the</strong><br />
debates over <strong>the</strong> “Kodiak v. Smiths” heaters on Rovers North Forum,<br />
I find little humor in running a 38-year old vehicle with no<br />
air-conditioning and a hard<strong>to</strong>p in <strong>the</strong> oppressive August heat.<br />
So, converting my 1970 Series IIA 88” station wagon <strong>to</strong> canvas (called<br />
a “tilt” across <strong>the</strong> pond) was as much a necessity as a desire.<br />
The Series Land Rover came in many permutations. To keep<br />
manufacturing costs low, <strong>the</strong> body tub included installation tubes for<br />
use with any hard <strong>to</strong>p, pickup <strong>to</strong>p or canvas <strong>to</strong>p. By 1967, Land Rover<br />
is advertising its lower-priced canvas <strong>to</strong>p model as “<strong>the</strong> Land Rover<br />
convertible.” You were urged <strong>to</strong> roll up its canvas <strong>to</strong>p “at <strong>the</strong> first glint<br />
of sunshine.” Never mind that <strong>the</strong> framework of aluminum hoops,<br />
stays and rails were ei<strong>the</strong>r “on” or “off,” or that <strong>the</strong> thick canvas <strong>to</strong>p<br />
can barely be removed and folded away – <strong>the</strong> conversion <strong>to</strong> a soft <strong>to</strong>p<br />
transforms <strong>the</strong> car.<br />
I ordered a full “hoop set,” canvas <strong>to</strong>p, gutter rails, windscreen<br />
rail, door seals, and tie downs from Rovers North. As I had a<br />
standard rear door with two side hinges, I also bought a tailgate,<br />
seals, and related hardware. After sorting out and separating <strong>the</strong><br />
daunting number of parts, I armed myself with a socket set, a small<br />
crescent wrench, several flat-head screwdrivers, a drill, tin snips, vise<br />
grips, and my not-so-fun-<strong>to</strong>-use rivet gun.<br />
In some thirteen years of ownership, <strong>the</strong> previous owner of my<br />
IIA had never removed <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p. Although I had heard horror s<strong>to</strong>ries<br />
of Series owners cracking <strong>the</strong>ir windscreens while trying <strong>to</strong> detach<br />
<strong>the</strong> hard<strong>to</strong>p, its removal (and detaching <strong>the</strong> rear door) went without<br />
incident. For a change all <strong>the</strong> bolts – <strong>the</strong> two behind <strong>the</strong> front seats,<br />
<strong>the</strong> two on each side of rear tub, <strong>the</strong> stretch of <strong>the</strong>m across <strong>the</strong><br />
windshield – came apart easily and smoothly. Lifting it off was<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r matter; it was not a one man job.<br />
After installing <strong>the</strong> front and rear hoops, I fitted <strong>the</strong> side ties and<br />
<strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> middle hoop. For <strong>the</strong> middle hoop, I used a large vise grip<br />
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