Taking on Jeff's Joy Get the Family Kayaking ... - Canoe & Kayak

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Feature The view from Catherine Cove After lunch at Te Horo the weather was holding and with a good tail wind we investigated paddock rocks, more caves, cathedral arches and had great fun playing around. We were now nearly at the southern end of the island and we hadn’t identified where we were to spend the night. Manuhakapakapa Bay (don’t say that one in a hurry) with just enough space for two tents, provided our overnight stop. Again a waterfall close by provided us with drinking and shower amenities. Masses of drift “Why had we felt so anxious about all the horror stories about French Pass?” wood fed our fire on what was now a clear, starry and cool night. As we listened to massive surf pounding the beach we wondered whether we would be able to leave in the morning! Day 5 The day dawned bright and clear and the surf had almost disappeared. Flat water made for easy paddling around the southerly tip of the island and back up its eastern side to the infamous French Pass. On a slack tide, we felt as if we were paddling across Oriental Bay on a summer’s afternoon. Adding to the experience we were accompanied by a pod of about 30 dolphins. Why had we felt so anxious about the horrors of French Pass? Afterwards we were told that this is where whirl pools can sink ships and the huge drop offs under the water cause massive turbulence of the fast flowing and huge volumes of water entering the area. The trip almost over, Andy just had to try again for a fish and this time SUCCESS!!!!! A large blue cod hauled in, we stopped for lunch, lit a fire and shared pan-fried cod, just divine gastronomic delight! We went on to Catherine Cove Resort with the promise of hot showers, non-tinned food (although I can assure you we still had plenty left!) and a proper bed. Day 6 We all thought it was going to be a deep, peaceful and well earned sleep… Mmmm not so! The wind howled and blew all night and worried Rachel and I so much that we got up at 1am to move the kayaks to a more sheltered location. I guess the boys slept through that part. By morning the wind was still gusty and strong and we set off for the final paddle back to French Pass. We had to cross it again, hugging the coastline and rocks to avoid strong wind gusts. When we had to face the wind, now gusting 30 knots, and the tide, we dug in and paddled hard across the Pass and into the shelter of the bay. Unpacking on the beach the wind was whipping up huge clouds of spray and throwing them into the rocks where we had just been. I was glad we were no longer on the water. The trip was over and it was time to have one last cold shower in the public facilities at French Pass. We were getting used to them by now! We had great fun investigating the cave, cathedral arches and playing around at Paddock Rocks. 10 ISSUE FIFTY Three • 2 0 0 9
Feature The final words This was an awesome trip. Magnificent and desolate scenery, challenging but enjoyable paddling and great company. Special thanks to Andy, our trip leader who spent much time beforehand planning and ensuring we knew as much as possible to reduce risk. This trip was definitely NOT for the faint hearted, loners or those who are not confident. Good endurance fitness and a high level of paddle skills (my skill set has improved!) was essential… Where and when is the next trip?? Day 1—French Pass (F) to A (24 km) Day 2—A to B (18.5 km) Day 3—B to C (26.5 km) Day 4—C to D (20 km) Day 5—D to E (19.5 km) Day 6—E to French Pass (F) (13 km) Total 121.5 km Map source: www.whareatea.org.nz Stewart Island French Pass beach… It looks serene, but look closely and you can see the clouds of spray. www.kayaknz.co.nz ISSUE FIFTY Three • 2009 11
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