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Grace Lewis - AsiaLIFE Magazine

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El Gaucho<br />

An<br />

Argentinean steakhouse with plenty of<br />

meat on the menu. Photos by Fred Wissink.<br />

Cuc Gach Quan<br />

Family-style<br />

Vietnamese food served in artful<br />

surroundings. Photos by Eunji Chung.<br />

Specialising in great-quality<br />

steaks and hearty and filling Argentinean<br />

comfort food, it’s best<br />

to visit the newest restaurant in<br />

the El Gaucho chain on an empty<br />

stomach.<br />

With 45 outlets preceding it,<br />

the Saigon establishment follows<br />

the same formula as its counterparts.<br />

The menu is mostly the<br />

same except for some additions<br />

to cater to local tastes, and the<br />

décor has the same rustic feel<br />

that can be found worldwide.<br />

In HCM City, though, the<br />

design seems very fresh. The<br />

downstairs is small and cosy and<br />

backed by the gleaming stainless<br />

steel kitchen. The upstairs is<br />

bright and airy with a fantastic<br />

heavy-wood bar and outside terrace<br />

that overlooks leafy Nguyen<br />

Sieu.<br />

The food is just as impressive.<br />

To start, crusty white bread is<br />

served with a side of slightlyspicy<br />

chimichuri (40,000 VND).<br />

Similar to salsa, the zesty sauce<br />

is made from diced capsicum,<br />

onion, parsley and olive oil. Next<br />

out is the very substantial Argentinean<br />

beef soup (65,000 VND).<br />

Almost like a stew, the broth is<br />

thick and rich with chunks of<br />

tender beef and potato, and butter<br />

beans.<br />

Homemade chorizo (120,000<br />

VND) and a spicier sausage<br />

called salchicha (120,000 VND)<br />

are available, too. Both are<br />

savoury and fragrant. The beef<br />

empanada (95,000 VND) is also<br />

homemade. Minced beef is<br />

encased in fried pastry to make a<br />

parcel resembling a pasty, albeit<br />

of a more exotic variety.<br />

It’s during the main course<br />

that El Gaucho’s emphasis<br />

on deluxe cuts of premium<br />

imported beef becomes clear.<br />

Cooked medium rare, the<br />

prime Black Angus rib eye<br />

(550,000 VND/250g or 750,000<br />

VND/350g) is unbelievably tender<br />

and flavoursome. The side<br />

of macaroni cheese, rough-cut<br />

chips and sautéed mushrooms<br />

are tasty, too.<br />

The hamburger (250,000 VND)<br />

again showcases a commitment<br />

to top-quality meat. The 350-<br />

gram patty, also medium rare, is<br />

thick and juicy and complemented<br />

by a generous stack of tomato,<br />

lettuce, onion and mayonnaise.<br />

One thing seems almost<br />

certain: a trip to El Gaucho is<br />

sure to satisfy HCM City’s most<br />

carnivorous residents. And with<br />

another location set to open at<br />

The Crescent in Phu My Hung<br />

on June 1, and perhaps more<br />

in the near future, El Gaucho<br />

certainly has Saigon covered.<br />

5D/104 Nguyen Sieu, District 1<br />

Tel: 3825 1879.<br />

Open daily for breakfast 8 am to 11<br />

am, lunch 11 am to 2.30 pm, dinner<br />

3 pm till late<br />

Go to Cuc Gach Quan and<br />

you’ll wish you lived there.<br />

Tucked behind a half-open gate<br />

on Dang Tat, the restaurant is a<br />

series of nooks filled with deep,<br />

leather chairs, salvaged-wood<br />

tables and armoires stacked<br />

with blue-and-white china<br />

bowls. Head up the ladder-like<br />

staircase to find a bedroominspired<br />

second floor, featuring<br />

a canopied bed for lounging<br />

and a spectacular terracotta tile<br />

ceiling.<br />

“The main idea was to recreate<br />

a home,” says owner Thai<br />

Tu-Tho who bought the colonial<br />

mansion with her partner, architect<br />

Tran Binh, to supplement<br />

their first restaurant on Thach<br />

Thi Thanh. (Incidentally, Tran’s<br />

assiduous redesign—and the<br />

fact that his architecture firm<br />

occupies the top two floors—is<br />

responsible for the restaurant’s<br />

nickname of “Architect’s<br />

House” among HCM City’s<br />

expats.) “The two of us live far<br />

from our families, and we’re not<br />

the only ones in Saigon away<br />

from home. This is for people<br />

who miss the taste and simplicity<br />

of family-style food.”<br />

Even those who didn’t grow<br />

up in Vietnamese homes will<br />

appreciate the Southern dishes<br />

cooked with care by chef duo<br />

Co Diep (vegetables and salads)<br />

and Chi Bay (meat and stir<br />

fries). Sipping on fresh fruit<br />

juices that arrive in glass bottles<br />

with whimsical rolled-leaf stoppers<br />

(55,000 VND), we sample<br />

cuon diep or lettuce rolls with<br />

prawn (60,000 VND), each bearing<br />

an orange prawn trussed on<br />

the top.<br />

The homemade tofu also<br />

impresses—we marvel a<br />

deep-fried version topped with<br />

crispy chilli-fried lemongrass<br />

(65,000 VND). As good as it<br />

is, though, it’s forgotten as the<br />

thit kho trung—stewed pork in<br />

clay pot—arrives at the table<br />

(75,000 VND). Pieces of pork<br />

and a hardboiled egg bathe in<br />

a rich, brown salty sauce and<br />

conversation stalls apart from<br />

an occasional grunt of delight.<br />

Unlike the set menu on offer<br />

at the Thach Thi Thanh location,<br />

the menu here is extensive<br />

to the point of bewildering; if<br />

you’re feeling overwhelmed,<br />

the staff will happily provide<br />

recommendations or even<br />

choose your entire meal. All<br />

you need to do is grab a pair<br />

of chopsticks out of the can at<br />

the end of the table and make<br />

yourself at home.<br />

10 Dang Tat, District 1<br />

Tel: 3848 0144<br />

Open daily 9 am till midnight<br />

42 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 43

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