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Introducing the - Peugeot

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22 23 PEUGEOTCLUB<br />

of must) and cryoextraction (freezing <strong>the</strong><br />

fruit) are some of <strong>the</strong> processes designed<br />

to increase biodiversity. This is far from a<br />

response to fashion, it is a philosophy. The<br />

staff are working on new vines, with a better<br />

characteristic and benefiting from patiently<br />

replanted hedges of fig trees and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

species that Xavier Planty has selected from<br />

local conservation banks. These indicators<br />

of insects and predators are a sign that <strong>the</strong><br />

balance is being maintained.<br />

Experienced men and women<br />

But what would <strong>the</strong>se natural tendencies be<br />

without <strong>the</strong> most amazing people of <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

day? In <strong>the</strong> late 18th century, <strong>the</strong> Maison<br />

noble du Bayle belonged to <strong>the</strong> Guiraud area,<br />

Protestant merchants (author’s note: <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is still a temple) <strong>the</strong>n went from bankers to<br />

merchants, from progressives to royalists.<br />

The estate would <strong>the</strong>n lose its name… After<br />

<strong>the</strong> occupation, Guiraud came back to life<br />

until <strong>the</strong> 1980s when major works were<br />

carried out to relaunch <strong>the</strong> estate. Today,<br />

a new chapter is being written. “Everything<br />

depends on <strong>the</strong> moment of picking,” says<br />

Xavier Planty. “My role <strong>the</strong>n is to know how<br />

to extract and find <strong>the</strong> flavours in <strong>the</strong> grape<br />

skin.” The sine qua non condition for a good<br />

vintage is careful harvesting. 150 experienced<br />

grape-pickers, mostly women, prepare to<br />

pick by hand. The basket, placed at <strong>the</strong> end<br />

of <strong>the</strong> row, is far from full and picking goes<br />

on day after day, bunch by bunch, in a series<br />

of sessions, as <strong>the</strong> Botrytis does its work.<br />

Quality is <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r of scarcity. With 6,660<br />

vines per hectare, <strong>the</strong> château’s average<br />

yield is about 1,500 l per hectare. The 2006<br />

vintage numbered 5,500 cases, almost 5,000<br />

of which have already been sold even though<br />

<strong>the</strong>y won’t be available until 2008. This was<br />

half <strong>the</strong> 2005 quantity.<br />

An amusing and sophisticated wine<br />

Guiraud produces an average of 100 000<br />

bottles a year, a second wine and a dry white,<br />

G de Guiraud, whose name is reminiscent<br />

of a perfume. In fact, after fermentation and<br />

maturing in new barrels, <strong>the</strong> creative work<br />

is very similar to that done by a perfume<br />

designer. Making a wine means blending,<br />

putting words to sensations and revealing<br />

a soul. It is about composing notes and<br />

harmonies. Our host talks about ”setting it<br />

to music”. Depending on <strong>the</strong> vintage, <strong>the</strong><br />

wine will have a mentholated freshness,<br />

be full bodied, have spicy, honey, caramel,<br />

nutmeg aromas or fruity notes of pear or<br />

vanilla. “When <strong>the</strong> wine is drawn it must<br />

be drunk. Especially if it’s good,” says <strong>the</strong><br />

critic. Xavier Planty is of <strong>the</strong> same opinion,<br />

“Sauternes must be drunk young!” he says. Of<br />

<strong>the</strong> outstanding wines since 2000, he prefers<br />

to remember <strong>the</strong> 1999 vintage, disdained<br />

by <strong>the</strong> critics and more complex, but<br />

revealing <strong>the</strong> secrets of a little known year,<br />

which merited greater respect.<br />

The worldwide prestige of a<br />

registered label<br />

It must be acknowledged that Sauternes<br />

suits <strong>the</strong> taste of <strong>the</strong> whole world. Good<br />

served with <strong>the</strong> eternal fois gras, but also<br />

with chocolate, blue cheeses, Japanese<br />

food, fish in sauce or with poultry, this<br />

wine is snatched up in Asia, Taiwan, Italy<br />

and Australia. Nowadays, half <strong>the</strong> sales are<br />

to o<strong>the</strong>r countries, and despite increasing<br />

competition from Hungarian vineyards, <strong>the</strong><br />

prestige of <strong>the</strong> Sauternes label is unaffected.<br />

What of <strong>the</strong> future? The team sees it as<br />

<strong>the</strong> colour of <strong>the</strong>ir wine, ra<strong>the</strong>r golden. The<br />

Château has just introduced a new quietly<br />

elegant and classy label, a perfect image<br />

of what Guiraud is today: a surprising and<br />

modern wine of contrasts, based on a<br />

meticulous tradition. The next step will be<br />

some works on <strong>the</strong> building to restore <strong>the</strong><br />

discreet lustre of bourgeois houses in <strong>the</strong><br />

Sauternes area that time has erased… and<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is already talk of starting up elsewhere,<br />

this time venturing into red wine. But that’s<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r story.<br />

<strong>Peugeot</strong> moves to Sauternes<br />

Château Guiraud<br />

33210 Sauternes<br />

Tel. +33 5 56 76 61 01<br />

www.chateauguiraud.com<br />

Open to visitors every day including<br />

weekends 9 am to noon and 2 to 5 pm<br />

(preferably by appointment)<br />

Holding time in barrels in <strong>the</strong> wine store.

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