issue 54 - AsiaLIFE Magazine

IB Learners
are Inquirers
A truly international
learning environment
with over 40 nationalities,
and Ho Chi Minh City's
only school with an IB
program for ALL students
aged 2 to 18 years.
28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Ward, D2, Ho Chi Minh City
Tel: (84-8) 3898 9100
Email: admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn
www.Facebook.com/ISHCMC
www.ishcmc.com

AsiaLIFE volume 54
www.asialife.asia
22
front
08 News & Events
12 AsiaLIFE Goes to Thailand
14 Dispatches
16 Street Smart: Cho Vuon Chuoi
18 Q&A with Carl Robinson
20 Photo Essay: Hidden Istanbul
food
style & design
42 Sterling's Saigon
43 May
44 DeciBel
45 Bahdja
46 French Connection
48 Street Chic
on the cover
storyboard
getaways
24 International Relations
30 Tracking Down Disaster
33 Tangled Hierarchy
34 Master of a Dying Art
36 Breaking Ground
38 Before it's Gone
40 Super Singapore
back
52 The List
78 Spotlight
80 Street Guide
88 Odd One Out
89 This Country Life
90 Pub Quiz
40 45
Cover
Art Direction
Johnny Murphy
Photography
Fred Wissink
Models
Adam Schofield and
Le Thi Ngo Nhien
4 asialife HCMC

note from the editor
Group Director Sales &
Marketing / Director Vietnam:
Jonny Edbrooke
jonny@asialife.asia
Managing Editor:
Chris Mueller
chris@asialife.asia
Deputy Editor: Lien Hoang
lien@asialife.asia
Contributing Editor:
Michael Tatarski
michael@asialife.asia
Editor-at-Large: Brett Davis
brett@asialifehcmc.com
Regional Creative Director:
Johnny Murphy
johnny@asialife.asia
Photo Editor: Fred Wissink
fred@asialife.asia
Production Manager:
Nguyen Kim Hoa
nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com
Photography Interns:
Alex McMillan and Rosa
Chung
Editorial Intern:
Claire Jowell
Chris Mueller
Romantic relationships aren’t easy anywhere, but in Vietnam,
where many expats end up dating or marrying locals, a whole
new set of unique challenges is created that can be especially
daunting. It’s not so much the relationship as a whole, but
rather the small things most foreigners wouldn’t give a second
thought to that end up causing the most problems.
The first time I met my Vietnamese girlfriend’s mother, it
was a brutally hot afternoon. One of those times during the
rainy season where it hasn’t rained in a couple of days, the
sun is out and it feels like a drop of water thrown in the air
would cause the sky to open up. Since it was the first time I
was meeting either parent, I decided I should ignore the heat
and wear a long-sleeve shirt to cover up the tattoos on my
arms, something, at the time, I would never even consider
back in the US. All went well, and despite the sweat dripping
off my face and my shirt becoming soaked throughout the
conversation, I made a fairly good first impression. That is,
until I left.
When I got outside, I decided to take off my shirt and just
wear the t-shirt I had underneath. Her mother was already
inside, but curious neighbours were apparently still watching.
This was in an old-school Chinese and Vietnamese neighbourhood
in District 11, where tattoos are still a sign of the
mafia.
Even though I thought I had made a good impression, that
night my girlfriend told me her parents were very concerned
about her seeing me. After some prodding, she told me her
neighbours had said something about my tattoos. Luckily, after
a couple of months her parents eventually warmed to me.
I’m fortunate enough to only have to think about the small
cultural differences that could complicate our relationship,
but in this month’s issue we take a look at some of the bigger
challenges Vietnamese and western couples face when their
cultures intertwine. For many Vietnamese, getting their families
to accept their partners seems to be the overwhelming
and most consistent challenge and there is no single solution
to overcome it. The number of obstacles involved in any relationship
is countless, but intercultural relationships add even
more. But for many expats, these relationships are one of the
main reasons to stay in Vietnam and most would agree that
the effort it takes to make them work is well worth it.
For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact:
+84 908 298395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com
Group Editor / Director
Cambodia:
Mark Bibby Jackson
mark@asialife.asia
Managing Editor Cambodia:
Ellie Dyer
Art Director Cambodia:
Steve Tierney
Sales Cambodia:
Sorn Chantha
Chantha@asialife.asia
AsiaLIFE Group
Director Thailand:
Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh)
oh@asialife.asia
Associate Editor Thailand:
Yvonne Liang
Photo Editor Thailand:
Nick McGrath
Sales Thailand:
Piyalai Tandhnan (Ming)
Ming@asialife.asia
Next time you're in Cambodia or Thailand, check out
the latest issue of AsiaLIFE or download them from
www.asialife.asia
Find AsiaLIFE articles on
6 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 7

NEWS
EVENTS
La Trattoria and
Wine Bar
Starting from the second half
of October, well-known Italian
ristorante and pizzeria La Braceria,
at 11 Le Thanh Ton Street
in District 1, will be replaced by
a trattoria, or an informal Italian
restaurant. La Trattoria del Zamboni,
run by Zoe and Riccardo
Pacciani, will be the first trattoria
in Vietnam. The entire restaurant
will change, from the layout to
the menu and wine list. The
menu will be a remix of classical
Italian cuisine with a contemporary,
innovative touch, created by
chef Francesco Zamboni, who
is coming directly from Rovigo,
Italy. There also will be a wine
bar, Il Buon Vino, on the third
level with a selection of 30 different
brands of wine.
Classical Piano Concert
Terraverde will host ‘Autumn
Concert’ with the HBSO
orchestra conducted by meritorious
artist Tran Vuong Thach
and special guest pianist Urs
Buchmann performing Anton
Rubinstein's Piano Concerto No.
3, Op. 45. The concert will take
place at 8pm on 16 September
at Conservatory Hall, 112
Nguyen Du, District 1. Tickets
can be purchased at the door
the evening of the concert.
For more information, contact
huongduong@terraverdetravel.
com or for pre-purchase and
seat reservation, call 09 08 85
36 86.
Cooking Class at
the Park Hyatt
Park Hyatt Masters of Food and
Wine returns to Saigon for its
last affair for 2012. This annual
series of epicurean events was
held earlier this year, showcasing
the diversity of regional textures
and flavours found throughout
Vietnam. The final series will happen
22 September at 2.30pm in
the western and Vietnamese restaurant,
Square One, featuring
'Hanoi — Flavours of the Rising
Dragon'. Influenced by the many
cultures that have occupied
this capital city, Hanoi’s cuisine
perfectly embraces them all in
inimitable fashion. In particular,
the master class will teach you
how to perfect the textures and
distinguish the different sides of
pho. Admission is VND 627,000
per person. For enquiries, visit
restaurants.parkhyattsaigon.com
or call 08 38 24 12 34.
The Little Prince
Dragonfly Theatre Co. and
blah blah films is producing
The Little Prince in English as
a play accessible to children
yet engaging to adults. The
adaptation envisions a magical
and poetic theatrical experience
that remains faithful to the
original story but touches current
audiences. It recreates the interplanetary
journey of the prince
from asteroid B-612 to Earth, in
a quest for love, friendship and
happiness, which will not disappoint
devoted fans of Antoine
Saint-Expury's masterpiece nor
fail to surprise with its modern
and explosive reinterpretation.
The professional cast is comprised
of expatriates and local
Vietnamese. Performances are
scheduled for the weekends of
6 and 13 October at The Children's
Theatre on Le Quy Don.
Tickets range between VND
275,000 and VND 350,000.
Tea Ceremony Day
To celebrate the introduction
of Matcha to its tea menu,
Operation: Tearoom is hosting a
free Tea Ceremony Day. A bowl
of Matcha will be prepared in
the Japanese ceremonial style
for anyone who stops by the
Tearoom on 23 September from
2pm to 5pm. Matcha has been
prized in Japan since the 12th
century when the traditional
Japanese tea ceremony, chado,
8 asialife HCMC

flourished. In addition to its rich
history and flavour, it is renowned
for its health benefits. One
serving is equivalent to 10 cups
of normal green tea in terms of
nutritional value and antioxidant
content. Operation: Tearoom is
open Monday to Friday 8am to
8pm, Saturday to Sunday 8am
to 5pm. 335/31 Dien Bien Phu
Street, District 3.
Danang Triathlon
On 29 September, the inaugural
Danang triathlon will offer athletes
five different challenges. Choose
from the full tri, a 5km swim,
40km cycle, 10km run (VND
750,000/individual, VND 1.5
million/team); half tri, a .75km
swim, 20km cycle, 5km run (VND
750,000/individual, VND 1.5
million/team); student fun (ages
18 to 23), 5km cycle, 2km beach
run, with best crazy costume
surprise prizes (VND 50,000/
individual); junior (ages 12 to 17),
2km beach run (VND 50,000/
individual); youngsters (ages 6 to
11), 1km run (VND 50,000/individual).
Email philbozz@hotmail.
com or call 0903 03 52 71 for
details.
French Discovery Menu
at Vatel Saigon
Exclusively in September, Vatel
Saigon is offering a brand new
‘Discovery Menu’. This menu is
specially designed for gastronomists
who love French culture
and cuisine. It is a unique opportunity
to taste famous dishes
including, pan-fried foie gras on
Dalat young cheese, or filet of
beef Rossini and wine. The new
menu costs VND 500,000++
and includes two glasses of
wine. Vatel Saigon is run by the
students of Vatel International
Business School in Hotel and
Tourism Management under
the supervision of internationally
experienced managers and
teachers. For more information
visit Vatelsaigon.com.
New Art and
Music Centre
VinGallery and Inspirato Music
Centre will host a grand opening
15 September from 6-10pm with
free cocktails, finger food, art
and music, though the concert
requires RSVP. VinGallery was
created to spread awareness of
the modern and contemporary
art that is emerging in Vietnam.
It helps support many of the
influential and distinctive artists
working in the country today,
artists who come from diverse
cultural backgrounds, work with
various mediums, boast different
art educations, and have a spectrum
of life experiences. VinGal-
Meet Trixie, ARC's Pet of the Month
At 7 months old, Trixie is sweet and excitable. She is very playful
and great with children. A medium size dog, Trixie has short fur so
her coat doesn't shed much. She was born at the clinic, where
her mum was rescued, so Trixie has been with ARC her whole
life. She has had all vaccinations and has been spayed so she is
ready to be adopted now! Contact arcfostadopt@gmail.com.

Cuisine Francais
Newly opened
10% off in Sept, 2012
Chez Paul
16 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D 1.
HCMC, Vietnam
Tel: 08 62 678 333
0932 770 709.
E: info@chezpaul.com.vn
www.chezpaul.com.vn
lery exhibits painting, sculpture,
photography, drawing, and installations,
with new exhibitions and
events every month. For more on
the gallery, located at 4-6 Le Van
Mien, Thao Dien, District 2, email
info@vingallery.com or call 09 07
72 98 46.
Beyond Formula One
Where can motor sport fans
find 100 of the world’s finest
racing cars for the price of a
single ticket? At the Marina
Bay Street Circuit, where three
top-line racing series will provide
the back-up to the fifth running
of the 2012 Formula 1 Singtel
Singapore Grand Prix from 21-23
September. Heading the list, and
making its first visit to the Singapore
street circuit, is GP2 — in its
seventh season, the innovative
series has proved itself as the
category of choice for future
Formula One stars. In the Ferrari
458 Challenge, the cars are built
for both professional drivers and
‘gentleman’ drivers. The third of
these three support categories
is the Porsche Carrera Cup Asia,
which is back for its fifth year.
VietJetAir Launches
Route With Sexy
Hawaii Dance
Any press is good press. Vietnam’s
low-cost carrier VietJetAir
made international headlines last
month when it got a slap on the
wrist for flight attendants who
dressed in beach holiday attire
and performed a sexy Hawaiian
dance. The performance helped
kick off the airline’s service
between Ho Chi Minh City and
Nha Trang, which operates once
a night, each way, on Tuesday,
Thursday, Friday and Sunday.
In August, VietJetAir also introduced
its 'You’re No.1' package,
which will enable passengers to
be the first to board the aircraft
and to collect their baggage after
their flights. Passengers now can
pre-book seats, including hot
seats with extra legroom.
Work, Not Just Charity
A graduation ceremony on 3
August recognised 34 disadvantaged
students who studied the
free vocational training course
Saigon Hospitality, through the
NGO Saigon Children’s Charity.
The students have gone on to
look for jobs at hospitality venues
in the city. With the aim of helping
underprivileged young people
to realise their full potential and
escape from poverty, Saigon
Children’s Charity has run the
Saigon Hospitality Course since
2007. The course has helped
students who have a great interest
in working in the sector to
find decently paid jobs and it also
has connected highly qualified
graduates with Vietnam’s rapidly
developing hospitality sector.
Film Festival
The 2012 Saigon Student
Film Festival, ShortSStuFF, is
under way. Students throughout
Vietnam and other countries in
Southeast Asia create short films
of a maximum 5 minutes on the
theme of 'Dreams'. With three
age divisions and six different
categories, the contest is open
to film-makers of all levels from
age 7 to 18. This is the third year
the festival will take place, with a
grand prize of an iPad 2. Three
international guest judges from
the filmmaking world will choose
their favourites this month, but
all submissions will be screened
19 September at the Australian
International School, Thu Thiem
campus in District 2. Everyone
with an invitation will get free
popcorn at the door, and will be
entered into a prize drawing to
take place in the evening.
myAccess Online Banking
10 asialife HCMC

This month the AsiaLIFE family adds a third member
with the launch of AsiaLIFE Thailand. We talk to the
people behind the venture, asking why the time is
right for a blitz on Bangkok.
It has been almost six years
since Jonny Edbrooke and Mark
Bibby Jackson launched AsiaL-
IFE — first here in Ho Chi Minh
City, then in Phnom Penh. Much
has happened in that time. The
world has been shaken by a
global recession that decimated
advertising revenue and the
internet revolution has transformed
the way the publishing
industry works.
Throughout this, the two
40-something Brits have shared
the same belief they held all
those years ago — there is space
for a strong, regional lifestyle
publication and AsiaLIFE has
the right brand to fill it.
More than 120 issues later,
and with three partners who
share their vision, the pair
have decided the time is ripe to
launch a Thailand edition, along
with a new website — Asialife.
asia — and an iPad app.
“We always did intend to roll
out the AsiaLIFE brand across the
region,” says Edbrooke. “Unfortunately
the global economic downturn
put our plans back a bit.”
Bibby Jackson has no doubts
the new venture will be successful.
“When I launched AsiaLIFE
in Cambodia everyone thought
12 asialife HCMC

I was mad,” he says. “Nobody
had successfully published a
quality lifestyle magazine in the
country. Now, 68 issues later,
everyone seems to be trying to
copy us.”
Edbrooke, who has been going
to the Thai capital for nearly
30 years, feels there is a clear
gap in the expat market, which
AsiaLIFE naturally will fill.
“There is much more to the
city than going to bars and
drinking beer,” he says. “We
cater for a more sophisticated
Bangkok market.”
What is the secret to AsiaL-
IFE’s success when so many
other magazines have fallen by
the wayside?
“In some respects AsiaLIFE
represents a return to good
old-fashioned journalistic principles,”
writes Bibby Jackson in
the first edition of the Thailand
magazine. “We will not run
advertorials or PR pieces, even
if an advertiser threatens to pull
out of the magazine, because we
write what we believe. What we
will do is publish that which is
of ‘interest’ to our readers.”
In the past AsiaLIFE has tackled
controversial issues such as
human trafficking and domestic
violence. Both Edbrooke and
Bibby Jackson are proud to
publish the first magazine in
the mainstream media to write
about the gay community in
Vietnam and Cambodia.
For the first issue of AsiaLIFE
Thailand, Bibby Jackson spoke to
Bangkok counsellors and expats
to find out how difficult it is for
foreigners to adjust to life in this
culturally complex and at times
frustrating city.
“It is a process that we have
all gone through,” he says.
The new website will feature
articles from all three magazines,
as well as select listings.
The magazines also can be
downloaded from the website or
the new iPad app. Plans for an
iPhone app are underway, most
likely to launch in October. Add
this to the TV reviews that are
being shot by director of photography
Jake Houseago, which
now can be seen via AsiaLIFE
Media’s Facebook page, and it's
clear AsiaLIFE has been busy
over the last few months.
“It has been pretty hectic at
times, and if I still had any hair
I’d have turned grey by now,
but this is why you get into the
business in the first place,” says
Edbrooke.
For their Thai adventure,
Edbrooke and Bibby Jackson
have teamed up with Nattamon
Limthanachai (Oh).
She first came across AsiaL-
IFE while working in Phnom
Penh in 2008 where she set up
two companies, a couple of Thai
restaurants, and a gelato café.
“I noticed that all our potential
customers were picking up a
copy of AsiaLIFE so I knew I just
had to advertise in it,” she says.
Although she has no prior
experience working in publications,
when Oh became aware
Edbrooke and Bibby Jackson
were looking to expand into
Thailand she was interested
immediately.
“It is just too good a magazine
to fail in Thailand,” she
says. “From the start I knew I
had to be part of it.”
Now readers in Thailand will
be able to understand just why
Oh caught the AsiaLIFE bug.
asialife HCMC 13

dispatches
Travel news from around the region and beyond
Brunei Gets Back to Basics
Offering a mild adventure in Borneo's best preserved
rainforest, Ulu Temburong National Park in Brunei benefits
wildlife, science, and visitors. A day tour will introduce you
to great hikes and views, local food, and river travel among
waterways and mangrove islands. Watch for hornbills, butterflies,
gibbons and macaques. Cross the Suspension Bride,
climb the 1,a200 steps to the Canopy Walkway, and enjoy a
buffet lunch near rock pools and waterfalls. You also have
the option to swim, canoe, or go rafting. For more, including
information about tours with longhouses, tent accommodations,
rural living, crocodiles, and campfires, go to
bruneibay.net.
Gem by the River
Boutique hotel The Siam is scenically situated along the Chao
Praya River in Bangkok’s royal Dusit district. The area is an ideal
vantage point from which to explore the city’s historical palaces,
temples and museums. The 39-room hotel was conceived partly by
owner and Thai celebrity Krissada Sukosol Clapp, a member of the
Sukosol ‘musical hoteliers’ family. Each suite has a unique theme,
drawing inspiration from Thai culture through the ages, as well as
original turn-of-the-century oriental artwork and antiquities from
Krissada’s private art collections. The Siam complex also houses
a cooking school, Muay Thai boxing ring and traditional Thai
teakwood houses. For more, visit thesiamhotel.com or call 66 2206
6999. – Ellen Boonstra
Music in Manila
If you can’t get to the United States anytime
soon, let the pop concerts in Manila bring it to
you. The American Idol summer tour stops there
21 September, when the final 10 from the show’s
11th season will perform solos, duets and group
performances. For a little less sugar, you also
can wait till 2 October to catch Keane. Four men
from England make up the alternative rock band
with a pretty soft side. But maybe not as soft as
The Fray, the American band, which plays in
Manila on 11 October. For tickets, go to mtvasia.
com/mini/gigguide.
14 asialife HCMC

Cho Vuon Chuoi
Street Smart
Alex McMillan explores one of District 3’s more interesting markets.
Set on the corner of Nguyen
Dinh Chieu and Nguyen
Thuong Hien in District 3,
Cho Vuon Chuoi, translates to
the ‘Banana Garden Market’.
As the name suggests, it was
previously known for its
many banana trees. Although
we had set out to write a listing
for the entire street, the
market proved to be so large
we decided to highlight some
of the best things that can be
found there. Unfortunately,
there were no names or addresses,
so if you head over
for a walk around the market
be prepared to put aside an afternoon
to sample everything
thoroughly.
Ground Coconut
Probably one of the most
interesting sights in the market
is the woman who spends every
day filling gunnysacks with
coconut products. Working in
her simple and unassuming
stall, she was happy to oblige
us with pictures, samples and
explanations of her products.
VND 30,000 for 1kg of beautiful,
ground coconut.
Trau Cau
Vietnamese legend has it that a
love triangle ended tragically
when the lovers turned into
three different edible products.
One of these products,
trau cau, still remains popular
today, especially amongst
elderly women. This green fruit
is bright pink on the inside and
extremely gummy. Locals are
known to chew on the gumlike-substance
to make their
teeth stronger, and also black.
It costs VND 2,000 for a brick.
If not to horrify your dentist,
at least check out the stall with
its kind and informative shop
owner.
Che Chuoi
The market’s namesake still
holds true to some degree in
that you can find an abundance
and variety of bananas. One of
the best products is a parfait
of grilled banana, coconut,
16 asialife HCMC

jelly and khoai mi (Vietnamese
potato), which is garnished
with peanuts and served warm.
VND 10,000.
Papaya, Shrimp and
Pig’s Ear Salad
This spicy dish is light and
fresh. Don’t be afraid of the
pig’s ear, it adds a crunchy texture
without much flavour. The
salad dressing is a sprinkling of
fish sauce. VND 12,000.
Chicken Curry
One of the main reasons so
many people come to this
market is because of the famous
chicken curry, which is a dark,
sweet dish. The chicken is
incredibly tender and will have
you coming back for seconds.
VND 20,000 for a portion.
Seafood
There were stalls at the market
with just about every crustacean
found in the sea. The most
available creatures were clams,
mussels and snails. Pull up a
plastic chair and snack away.
Clothing
If you’re finding that you
gained too much weight from
all the amazing food this market
has to offer, you’re in luck,
as there is a gigantic clothing
section here. Get lost in the
aisles of textiles, lots to see.
asialife HCMC 17

Carl Robinson
The American-turned-Australian was a correspondent for The Associated
Press’s Saigon bureau from 1968 to 1975, and now returns to the country
regularly with his Vietnamese wife. Photo by Fred Wissink.
What was it like being here
in the 70s?
My perspective was always
different from other correspondents,
more politics-oriented,
because prior to that I had
worked with USAID and because
I knew the Vietnamese. I
didn’t cover much shoot-em-up,
bang-bang stuff. I learned early
on, you can get killed doing
that. I lost a lot of colleagues
who went out on the frontlines.
I covered opposition politics.
I also did a lot of social sorts
of stories, Tet stories, refugee
stories.
Did you have any close calls?
The hairiest operation I was involved
in was the Laos invasion
in 1971, being under artillery
fire, being ambushed out on the
road. But I never pretended to
be a combat reporter. I was a
correspondent and there was a
war going on.
What about the day-to-day?
I’d get up, have breakfast, get
on my motorbike, and get to the
office by 7.30 or 8am. I’d catch
up with what happened overnight,
ongoing developments.
As photo editor, you were making
sure your photographers
can ship down to you from
where they are. In the afternoon,
photos would be coming
down and reporters would
be calling in. We also covered
Cambodia, so we’d meet the
plane, get the photos. It took 20
minutes for each photo to be
sent through shortwave radio
through Tokyo. And Vietnam
could intercept them, and they
did sometimes, using them for
their own propaganda. NBC
was next to us, they had to ship
their film out every time. We
didn’t realise the impact our
photos were having, but we
wanted to know who had won
the competition for play that
day. Some we knew, the photo
of the Viet Cong execution
or the napalm girl, we knew
something like that would be
dynamite.
Tell me about your colleagues.
There were 100 or so in the
press corps. There was a line
between the boozers and
the heads (drug users). You
socialise with each other. I was
a head. This street was full of
girly bars (pointing to Dong
Khoi). There were only French
restaurants, so it’s nice to see
that’s changed. There were not
a lot of Vietnamese restaurants
then, so a lot of correspondents’
first encounter with Vietnamese
food was [my wife] Kim’s
cooking. Remember, there was
a midnight curfew. The streets
were deserted. You could get
a pass but it was better not
to push your luck because
they had militias out, military
patrols. If you invited people
over for dinner, it became a
sleepover.
What stories were you
most proud of?
I was one of the journalists who
broke the tiger cage stories on
Con Dao island. There were
heart-wrenching stories about
political prisoners. I was quite
pleased with my coverage of
the Laos invasion; got photos
of people hanging onto a
helicopter.
What’s it like returning
to Vietnam?
It’s really exciting getting to
know Vietnam. One thing that’s
helpful in me getting over
Vietnam is becoming very interested
and knowledgeable about
Vietnamese history. We were
just a part of Vietnam’s long
sweep of history. We weren’t the
first, don’t feel bad.
What are these tours
you organise?
We bring Australian veterans
and Viet Kieu back here. It’s important
to come back here and
see Vietnam again, especially
vets, they have a lot of baggage.
They bring their wives along,
and by the end, [the wives]
understand where it all comes
from. It’s a life-changing experience.
The Vietnamese haven’t
been wallowing. They’re a good
example for the veterans. I think
seeing them and the attitude
of the Vietnamese is good for
them. It’s been the most heartening
thing we’ve done, getting
them together with old enemies.
By the end, they’re all drunk
and hugging and they get it.
The best thing you can do is go
back to a traumatic place and
get over it.
How do you think people here
deal with the history?
Vietnamese are very pragmatic.
They don’t have time to sit
around and be bitter. We think
there must be guilt, ingrained
guilt, you feel bad if you do
something bad. Here, the bad is
accepted; the good and the bad,
the yin and yang. Buddhism
is part of it, life is suffering.
Whereas in the west, we’re
always looking for solutions,
we strive for happiness and we
don’t know how fleeting happiness
is.
18 asialife HCMC

20 asialife HCMC

Photo Essay
Hidden
Istanbul
Earlier this year AsiaLIFE photographer Nick McGrath spent 10 days
walking the back streets of Istanbul, from Fatih to Emininou. Away
from the mosques and into ordinary suburbia, he discovered an
amazing city full of the most hospitable people.
asialife HCMC 21

22 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 23

24 asialife HCMC
INTERNATIONAL

RELATIONs
When Vietnamese and foreigners start on the path towards marriage, the
cross-cultural couples must choose the customs they’ll bring along, and what
they’ll leave behind. By Lien Hoang. Photos by Fred Wissink.
asialife HCMC 25

or most of their wedding, Do Thi
Thanh Thuy and Andrea Da Gasso
Ffollowed Vietnamese tradition, lighting
incense, wearing ao dai, and marching gifts
over from the groom’s house.
But as for the ritual of clinking glasses at
every table, Andrea didn’t want to drink that
much alcohol. So his aunt brought from their
native Milan what he called 'a kind of keo' —
confetti, or chocolate-covered almonds that
brides and grooms deliver, table by table, at
Italian weddings.
Such cultural compromises began long
before the nuptials and, as with so many
mixed-nationality couples in Vietnam, they
continue long after.
“She’s open to learn about my culture,”
Andrea, 42, says of his wife, “and that’s
important to me.”
Couples like Andrea and Thuy represent
roughly 2 percent of marriages in Vietnam
each year, according to the Ministry of
Justice. Of 668,026 marriage certificates
issued in 2010, for instance, 13,882 went to
foreign-Vietnamese couples.
When people travel to Vietnam and fall in
love with locals, the couples embark on not
just long-term relationships but long-term
questions about how to marry their own habits
and traditions with those of their partners.
Dating the family
More than anything, Confucian obsession
with filial piety can complicate romances,
from day one. Gia dinh la tren het, as the
Vietnamese say. Family first.
Thuy, 30, met Andrea in 2008 when he
visited the art gallery she was managing, to
see about displaying his photography. He
teased her about pronouncing 'next week'
like 'Nesquick' and asked her out. After
some qualms about dating a client, she
finally agreed.
But like the majority of single Vietnamese,
Thuy was living with her parents, so early on,
dates ended with the pair sitting outside her
house. From a balcony, her mother could
watch over them or shout down to them
about how late it was and shouldn’t he be
going?
Doru Tudose, from Bucharest, met similar
suspicion when he started dating Nguyen
Han in 2006.
“In the first days, when I was picking her
up, her mother was looking mean, no eye
contact,” Doru, 34, says.
The two have since married and opened
Bootleg Cafe together. But Han, 32, explained
that at the time her parents were wary
of foreigners, whose time in Vietnam could be
fleeting, and they didn’t think it was proper for
her to go out with Doru.
But the couple didn’t have as hard a time
as Sonia Watson, 29, and Nguyen Hung, 28.
Raised in Paris but identifying as British like
her mother, Sonia is a rare white woman to
marry a Vietnamese man. Hung says the gender
reversal was a problem right away, in part
because his parents expected him to marry
a Vietnamese who would move in with them.
On the other hand, a Vietnamese woman
wed to a foreigner could make a smoother
transition, because custom already requires
that she move out of her parents’ house. Tuoi
Tre newspaper quoted government statistics
in July estimating that four in five Vietnamese
who marry foreigners are women.
“It’s easier for a foreign husband and Vietnamese
wife, because in Asian countries the
man is usually more important. So if a daughter
marries a foreigner, parents think she’ll
26 asialife HCMC

have a better life,” says Hung, who works in
customer care at Lakeview Villas.
Sonia, a behavioural therapist, becomes
emotional when she recalls how Hung’s
parents initially ignored her. His father walked
out when she brought mooncakes the first
time they met; his mother continued cooking
rather than respond when she announced
she was pregnant.
“We had big, big fights,” Sonia says. “They
wanted me out of his life and did everything
they could to get me out.”
That was years ago. But a newer couple,
Doan Thi Ngoc Hien and Arnaud Darras,
are now facing similar resistance from the
Vietnamese side.
The couple have a lot to prove to Hien’s
family. Arnaud, a manager of a heating ventilation
and air conditioning company, is from
Bordeaux but met Hien online in January, and
they got married here in August. While talking
with AsiaLIFE at a restaurant downtown, Hien
feeds Arnaud ice cream and describes how
her family urges her to marry rich, especially
because they are well-off already.
Arnaud, 40, says Hien’s brother wanted to
set her up with one of his wealthy friends.
“Later, when he sees we’re happy, we
have a child, we’re still married, they will
think, ‘He’s a good guy, we can accept him,’”
Arnaud says, lacing his fingers around Hien’s.
“But for now, I know it’s not the case.”
Hien, 28 and a sales manager at a shipping
company, is adamant her family will have to
come around.
But in the beginning, some choose not to
deal with their families. That is, they lie. It’s
common enough for women to date by telling
parents they’re going out with friends. Thuy
took it a step further, spending a weekend
with Andrea on Phu Quoc island. What did
her parents think she was doing? Surveying a
Sonia for a week. He came down with chickenpox
after they met and told his parents he
would go to a friend’s so the family wouldn’t
catch it.
Tilting at stereotypes
Thuy says she trusts Andrea, with whom she
shares a photography business out of their
house in Binh Thanh District. But during the
courtship, she kept an ear to friends who
warned that when it comes to Vietnamese,
westerners love them and leave them. And
sometimes, leave them pregnant. When Thuy
and Andrea finally visited Milan together, she
went in part to check he didn’t have another
wife and children in Italy.
The stereotypes cut both ways, says
Doan Thi Ngoc, an instructor at Hoa Sen
University’s Gender and Society Research
Centre. Vietnamese women who walk down
the street with western men can be seen as
prostituting themselves or marrying for money
and a passport, she says.
But Ngoc has found that people opened
their minds as Vietnam opened its doors economically
and socially. More tourism, wealth,
“She’s picked up
saying, ‘It’s mental.’
I’ve picked up
saying, ‘Troi oi.’”
Adam Schofield
client hotel for her art gallery.
“They don’t agree with me to go overnight
with a man, but I follow my heart,” she says,
sitting cross-legged on the floor at home with
that man, whom she affectionately calls Heo,
Pig.
On the island, they booked separate
rooms, hers with a balcony from which she
could listen to his guitar serenade. They
grilled seafood on the beach and had their
first kiss.
Hung made up a different story to stay with
Adam Schofield and Le Thi Ngo Nhien
asialife HCMC 27

usiness links, exposure to pop culture, and
intermarriage, have meant that “attitudes can
be more open,” she says.
Integration
In the case of intermarriage, Vietnamese
families tend to open up to foreigners not just
because they stick around, but because they
adapt.
The process begins with le phep, deference
to parents, from learning to address them
respectfully, to having them over or visiting at
least once a week. Andrea remembers one
meal when he began eating before Thuy’s
parents — a faux pas in Vietnamese culture,
which dictates that younger generations invite
older ones to eat first.
But few changes have a larger impact on
the dynamics of relationships than a foreigner’s
decision to take up Vietnamese.
“In the beginning I
would take my son
out, and everybody
just looked at me
with strange eyes.”
Nguyen Hung
“I want to learn everything,” says Arnaud,
adding that Hien will teach him Vietnamese.
“You cannot understand the way of life of a
country without learning the language.”
That’s still a work-in-progress for Adam
Schofield, from Manchester, and Le Thi Ngo
Nhien. Since his studying has dropped off,
Adam is more likely to use his language CD
during a DJ gig than a Vietnamese lesson.
Red tape has stalled their marital plans, but
the two have a 1-year-old son, and Adam
says he’ll probably try learning Vietnamese
again when his son does.
Sonia studied Vietnamese for a few years
and says she’s grateful to participate during
festivities, such as wishing her in-laws good
health and longevity. But she and Hung
generally lapse into English, which Ngoc, the
university instructor, says reflects a 40-60 balance
between Vietnamese and westerners.
“Just in my own opinion, still one side is
dominant,” Ngoc says. “Vietnamese usually
have to follow other cultures, but they enjoy
that culture, too.”
The language barrier intrudes most
obviously when husbands and wives can't
communicate with their in-laws, or even
pronounce each other's names correctly. English
is but one symptom of how far western
influence has spread, but that makes it a more
widely useful language than Vietnamese.
Partly for that reason and to keep a vacation-like
barrier between him and the country,
Doru, the Romanian, chooses never to adopt
Vietnamese. Though Han wants him to learn,
Doru is blunt in his refusal. Just as he never
acquired a taste for local cuisine, Doru thinks
no one has to change his ways for others. Yet
he admits, “When we chose that she would
learn English, subliminally, we were choosing
to live on my terms.”
Gender divide
Han makes the compromise, reasoning that
living on western terms is to her benefit. Wearing
a white lace dress and heavy bangs, she
says during an interview at her bar-cafe that
the arrangement puts her on a more equal
footing with Doru.
“Vietnamese men want us to be traditional,
clean the house, cook, take care of the kids,”
she says in Vietnamese. On the other hand, if
she washes clothes, Doru dries them. If she
cooks, he washes dishes. Not that she likes
to cook.
She writes off Vietnamese men as selfish
and jealous, but Vietnamese women own up
to their spars with the green-eyed monster,
too. Chalk it up to a society that leaves little
room for friendships with the other sex, particularly
after marriage.
Adam, 33, and Nhien, 27, have trouble
Sonia Watson and Nguyen Hung
28 asialife HCMC

finding middle ground here. They’re butterflies
in a social scene ripe for jealousy because
they like to DJ at clubs. Across from the altar
in their parlour at home is a corner turntable.
She sees less nightlife now their son Lucajay is
in the picture, while Adam continues to work,
which he says requires him to be, in a word,
friendly. Still, Adam tries to curb the flirting,
and Nhien tries to overlook his habit of calling
people ‘darling’ and ‘love’.
“Women always want to be number one,”
she says. “If he just hugs anybody, I feel like
I’m the same as them, I’m nothing special.”
Sonia doesn’t worry so much about jealousy
or infidelity. Friends had warned her of
those problems among Vietnamese men, who
they said drank, expected to be waited on,
and hit their wives. Those formed an image
that Sonia says turned her white girlfriends off
from Asians. It doesn’t help that Asian males
defy a somewhat western construct that they
must be bigger and taller than females (Sonia
notes that she’s taller than Hung). If dating
sites are any indication, Asian men are some
of the least successful pursuers, according
to a 2009 study published in Social Science
Research. Asian women ranked among the
most sought-after.
But Sonia has been attracted to Asian men
most her life, while she considers herself nothing
like traditional Asian women.
“I complain a lot,” she says, before turning
to her husband in the living room of their
District 7 apartment. “Your life would be easier
with a Vietnamese wife.”
He considers. “You make me think about it.”
“Admit it, you know it’s true,” she says.
“You’d live with your parents, you’d come
home and everything would be done.”
Hung turns back to the interview, joking,
“She wants me to get a Vietnamese wife.”
Bringing up baby
As couples go about welding their two worlds,
no issue complicates the process more than
the question of children. Hien and Arnaud
want to conceive this month, while Andrea
and Doru each need some convincing from
their wives.
Those with children must then decide on
a bevy of compromises. Will they keep the
newborn inside the house until the first-month
celebration? What will they feed the baby?
For education, will they enroll in a Vietnamese
school, pay five figures for an international
program, or move to the foreign spouse’s
home country?
Despite the challenges, parents say having
children has smoothed the welding process.
At first, Nhien earned her mother and father’s
disapproval by drinking and going out late with
Adam.
“But they’re happier now that I settled down
and have a stable family,” she says.
For Hung and Sonia, 2-year-old Tam has
made all the difference. When she became
pregnant, they got not a single 'congratulations'
from Hung’s parents, who harbored
something verging on contempt for her.
Over the months, some of the animosity
subsided and his mother even began to smile.
“The bigger I got, the more they realised,
this is really happening,” Sonia says, before
her son interrupts to ask for an explanation.
He is holding a book, pointing to a picture of
milk.
The day he was born, Tam’s paternal
grandparents transformed completely. They
spent the day at the hospital, tending to
Sonia and cradling their hours-old grandson.
It was as if they had always gotten
along, and they never looked back.
While selecting a name, Sonia and
Hung considered Tam, which means
'heart' when topped with a hat-shaped
accent marker. But her mother observed
that in Scotland, where she grew up, the
name also means 'Tom'. So they opted
to forgo the marker, leaving their son with
a Vietnamese heart, and a western one,
too.
Doru Tudose and Nguyen Han
asialife HCMC 29

Tracking
Down Disaster
In the closing days of the war in Vietnam an audacious plan was hatched to fly
thousands of Vietnamese orphans out of the country. The first of those flights
ended in disaster, killing more than 150 people. Almost four decades later,
Brett Davis accompanies a survivor of that fateful flight on a search for the
scene of his brush with death.
It’s an unusually clear early-
August afternoon and we are
standing in the middle of a
small cluster of rice paddies
in Ho Chi Minh City's District
12. It is only a kilometre or
two from the main road but
the landscape quickly takes
on a semi-rural feel, dotted by
low-set houses with small front
gardens.
The directions were not
exact; we had a rough idea and
then started asking around
once in the vicinity. Pulling out
the photographs we were given,
there is no doubt we have
found the spot. This is where
the first of the Operation Babylift
flights came to a shuddering
halt, crash landing shortly after
take-off in April 1975.
I’ve come along on the day’s
search with Landon Carnie,
who with his twin sister was
among the fortunate who
survived that day. They were
both thought to have perished.
Yet the two were found more
than a day later in a nearby
field, unharmed and reportedly
clinging to each other.
While he says he has often
thought about visiting the site,
Carnie only became aware of
the general location of the crash
recently. “I was interviewed a
few months ago by a reporter
from Al Jazeera, and she was on
one of the later Babylift flights
and she told me about the location,”
he says.
There are 173 other survivors.
Another 153 people,
including government officials,
air force crew, nurses, civilians
and 76 children were killed. Yet
there is little to mark the location
of such a significant event
— just an old bowl and vase
atop a cracked bit of concrete,
nestled between two rice paddies
hidden by the tall grass.
The crash
In the dying days of the war
in Vietnam, then US President
The only marker of the resting place
of the plane's front section
30 asialife HCMC

Photos by Brett Davis
Gerald Ford gave the order to
commence an operation to help
thousands of orphans evacuate
the country. Between 4 and 26
April, some 3,000 children were
relocated to the United States
as well as Australia, Canada
and France.
The first of these flights
took off from Saigon’s Tan Son
Nhat airfield around 4pm. A
quarter of an hour later, about
24 kilometres off the coast from
the fishing village of Vung Tau,
the Lockheed C-5 Galaxy carrying
the human cargo suffered
a catastrophic failure. The rear
cargo doors blew out, causing
an explosive decompression
and severely damaging the
aircraft’s control systems.
With extraordinary skill the
pilots of the stricken aircraft
managed to turn the plane
around and get it back in sight
of the runway in Saigon. But
at about 4.45pm the Galaxy
hit the ground in rice fields,
miraculously bouncing again to
allow it to clear a reach of the
Saigon River, before smashing
into a dyke and breaking into
pieces.
The area at the time was
farmland and the crash site was
more than a kilometre from
the nearest road so firefighters
could not reach the burning
wreckage. The first rescuers
had to be choppered in.
On learning it would be up
to 11 days before the surviving
children could be airlifted
out of the war-torn country,
American business man Robert
Macauley mortgaged his house
to charter a Boeing 747 to get
the children out.
Back at the site
As we walk back out of the
fields to the road where our
taxi is waiting, a couple of local
residents are talking animatedly
with other members of
our party. One woman, whom
I would guess to be in her 60s
— although she declined to
give her name or age — tells
us there’s another site nearby
where the middle part of the
fuselage came to rest. We are
astounded when she adds that
the single remaining piece of
the aircraft is still there. Everyone
piles into the cab as the
woman hops onto the back of
a motorbike and we head back
down the road.
She later tells me she and
her husband were living in the
same place back in 1975. They
remember hearing a tremendously
loud noise. They ran
out of their house and were
“scared” by the site of burning
wreckage and bodies strewn
across the landscape.
Heading roughly due east,
we turn on to one road and
then another, before taking
a right on a rutted dirt track
just wide enough for the car
to pass. Tall trees line the path
and the houses are a little
closer together than before,
but the shade at least provides
some respite from the sun. After
bumping along for about a
kilometre we stop at a typicallooking
countryside house set
at the back of a wide courtyard.
It takes a moment to realise
where to look, or even what
exactly we are looking for. But
there it is. Tucked just inside
the front gate of the property
is a little altar divided into
halves, top and bottom. The top
chamber of the small concrete
structure contains a flower and
a small bowl, and underneath,
protruding from the earth
about 30 centimetres, is the last
An eyewitness to the crash
Landon Carnie searching for the 'Operation Babylift' crash site
asialife HCMC 31

It takes a moment to realise where
to look, or even what exactly we are
looking for. But there it is.
mottled-grey piece of Lockheed
C-5A Galaxy number 68-0218.
The owner of the house
initially is not too pleased to
see us. Despite our excitement
at finding this artefact from
Operation Babylift, we apparently
are not the first to make
the trek to his front door. It
is not long though before Mr
Dang, who says he is a year
shy of 50, warms to us once he
understands the reason for our
interest. He tells us his family
moved to the area when he
was a boy and built the house
he currently lives in. At that
time, he says, there was still
much of the wreckage to be
found. He also related stories
about people gathering clothing
and even jewellery from
around the crash site.
I wonder why there is
still one piece of the aircraft
remaining and an altar built
around it. Apparently, like an
iceberg, only a small portion
is visible and Mr Dang
estimates the piece of metal
extends perhaps two metres
below ground. It was simply
too large to dig away so life
continued on around it.
From somewhere cans of 333
are produced and we enjoy a
beer and amiable conversation.
Out of a clear blue sky commercial
airliners regularly descend
on their final approach
to the airport only a few miles
away. It is a reminder of how
close that flight in 1975 came
to making it to safety.
Carnie is uncharacteristically
quiet, and seems content
to take things in while others
do the talking. I ask how he
is feeling now we have found
the crash site, and even the
remaining piece of the plane.
“I can't fully grasp it at the
moment,” he says. “But I’ll let
it sit for a while as I digest everything
that has happened.”
He says he is maybe a little
disappointed there was not
more tangible evidence of
what had occurred. “I also realise
why there wouldn’t be, it
is not the story of the Vietnamese
living here.”
When I met Carnie at his
apartment at the beginning of
the day, before we set out on
our search, I was interested
to know if he felt in any way
special because of what he had
been through, the very fact he
was alive.
He tells me it is difficult to
say because he has no recollection
of the events of that day,
being only 18 months old at
the time. “But it was always
something I kind of knew,
even though I don’t remember
when or how I was told,” he
says.
It is understandable that it
would take some time to process
everything he thought or
felt on the day of our expedition,
so I get in touch a few
weeks later to ask how he is
feeling about it now.
“I think I feel more at peace
about one small bit of my life
and experience of coming to
America,” he tells me. “I think
about the sacrifices that were
made to get me and many others
to countries which would
provide us with great opportunities.
Mainly, I think you
have to live life as you want
to, not how you are expected
to, and just try to make others’
lives better and show compassion.”
The last remaining piece of the aircraft
Mr Dang, on whose property the makeshift shrine is located
32 asialife HCMC

Tangled Hierarchy
Here are the rules for when to use the terms of endearment anh,
chi and em — and here is when to break the rules. By Lien Hoang.
Photo by Rosa Chung.
At their most basic, anh and chi
mean older brother and sister,
respectively. But as anyone
knows after spending enough
time with them, Vietnamese
people really use the words for
any moderately older person.
There are so many exceptions
in this social hierarchy, though,
that I find myself in a sort of
Mobius strip.
Let me explain. I defer to my
former roommate as chi because
she’s older. She defers to my
cousin as anh because he’s a
man. And he defers to me as chi
because my mom is older than
his dad. It’s like each of us is
rock, paper or scissors.
And what makes the loop
stranger still: I’m eight years
younger than my cousin. In
other words, he is older but
calls me chi.
The example paints two rules
that defy age. First, the pecking
order of cousins depends not on
their age, but on the age of their
parents. So it’s pretty common
for an elder cousin to treat a
younger one as the superior.
In western countries, if you’ve
had an uncle who is your age or
younger, you get a sense of how
awkward that feels.
It’s similar for Vietnamese
in-laws. If you marry a man, for
example, you must call his older
sister chi, even if you’re older
than she is. Your age doesn’t
matter; you have to follow the
rules that your spouse does.
The second rule of thumb
in my example above is that
women tend to address men as
anh even if the men are younger
and definitely if they’re dating
or married. It’s something of
a patriarchal holdover despite
an increasingly gender-equal
society.
Around my old neighbourhood
in District 12, that first
rule made for an odd couple
of weeks when I moved back
to Ho Chi Minh City. All of my
cousin’s friends have a decade
on me but referred to me as chi
simply because my cousin did.
Some still do.
I reciprocated by calling
them em, a term of endearment
familiar to many an expat at
many a downtown restaurant.
Again, regardless of age, servers
pleasantly greet guests as
anh and chi, so foreigners have
mastered asking for the check,
“Em oi, tinh tien.”
In the context of the service
industry, one could translate
anh and chi as ‘sir’ and
‘madam’, respectively. But the
English versions are limited
to polite exchanges, whereas
the Vietnamese titles somehow
convey affection and courtesy
simultaneously. What makes
the difference is em. Alone,
anh and chi denote Confucian
respect for elders and other
superiors. But em, which has no
satisfying English equivalent,
creates a relationship, a role
for the lower-ranked because
it conjures up the intimacy of
sister and brother. Without ever
learning each other’s names,
two people can establish an
instant connection. (For better
or worse, this also allows me
to get by without remembering
people’s names.)
Anh, chi and em also pose
much more delightful alternatives
to the dry personal
pronouns toi (I) and ban (you)
that foreigners first learn in a
beginning Vietnamese class.
Instead of a stuffy thank you
(“Toi cam on ban”) people inch a
little closer by saying, “Em cam
on chi,” for instance. Try it out.
Of course, all this applies to
people in roughly the same generation.
The titles designating
older people (co, chu, ong, bac,
etc.) are a whole other story.
asialife HCMC 33

34 asialife HCMC

Master
of a Dying Art
In today’s age of digital photography, the craft of personal portrait painting
is fading fast. Tu Hoa Loi is one of the few remaining practitioners in Ho Chi
Minh City. By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Alex McMillan.
Photography has, in many
ways, become a medium of the
masses. Cameras are now built
in to nearly every cell phone,
and many of them take fairly
high-quality snapshots. As a
result the once prolific art of
personal portrait painting, a
craft with one foot in the world
of photography and the other
in the art world, has nearly
slipped into oblivion. Tu Hoa
Loi is trying to prevent it from
disappearing completely.
Loi realised he had a skill
for painting around the age of
11, but his parents forced him
to study medicine when he entered
university. After one year
he decided he had had enough
and enrolled in the Hanoi Fine
Arts University so he could
pursue his true passion.
After graduating in 1959 he
worked for the Central Circus
Federation, painting advertisements
as the troupe toured
northern Vietnam. Eventually
he grew tired of moving
around so much and decided to
open his own personal portrait
painting shop in Hanoi’s Old
Quarter at a time when the art
form was venerated. But after
running his shop for a decade
Loi noticed his health was
declining. His sister convinced
him to move to Saigon for the
weather, and 21 years ago he
made the move south.
Loi has been working at a
small shop in District 10 ever
since. He sits on the sidewalk
with an easel and his equipment
and paints every weekday.
He maintains steady focus
and appears to completely
block out the din of the traffic
on busy Dien Bien Phu and the
roaring of circular saws in the
shop next door. The genteel
76-year-old has never smoked
and doesn’t drink alcohol. Loi
says since his work requires
sharp eyes and concentration he
doesn’t do anything that would
hurt his ability to paint.
Loi’s talent is prodigious,
as evidenced by the incredibly
life-like black and white portraits
on display in front of his
shop. Understandably, though,
he is worried about the future
of personal portrait painting.
“Young people don’t have the
patience to do this anymore,”
he says.
Despite the bleak future
facing his profession, Loi says
he has no intention of slowing
down. As a widower who has
never remarried and with his
three children enjoying successful
careers in Hanoi, painting is
his life.
Somewhat surprisingly, given
the proliferation of computers
and digital technology, Loi still
has plenty of customers. He says
the majority are people who
want portraits of their parents
or grandparents who lived before
cameras were widely available
in Vietnam. Some people
bring damaged photographs
to him, hoping he can recreate
the image in a way that digital
restoration cannot. Sometimes
Loi can base his paintings off
of an older, faded portrait, but
occasionally he has nothing to
go on but descriptions of facial
features from relatives.
He recalled one story in
which a high-ranking, 90-yearold
military official from Cu Chi
arrived out of the blue and described
his father, who had died
four decades earlier. Loi asked
about his eyes, nose and mouth
then worked at his easel for four
hours. When he presented the
finished painting to the official,
the man wept. “He was amazed
at how much it looked like his
father, and the fact that he was
crying really moved me,” Loi
says.
It takes an average of three to
four hours for him to complete a
painting, though larger pictures
can take up to six. And the
work seems to suit him. With
a razor-sharp mind and shock
of black hair that would make
men 20 years younger envious,
he constantly interupted to add
more anecdotes and thoughts on
his craft.
When asked about the possibility
of retirement Loi laughs
and says, “I have never even
thought about that, since this is
my happiness.” He says his children
worry about him because
he lives alone and is reaching
an age when most people start
to rely on their families. But his
only response to their concern
is, “I am stronger than them
[others his age].”
In this digital age, Loi is a
stark reminder of the analog
past. His business cards are
hand-written, and there isn’t
a single electronic device in
his work area. Even though
he is part of a dying craft, his
passion burns stronger than
ever. He has mastered personal
portrait painting, and as Saigon
continues to change around
him it seems that his little spot
on Dien Bien Phu will remain
a testament to a once-prized
medium.
asialife HCMC 35

36 asialife HCMC

BREAKING GROUND
As Loreto prepares to celebrate its 15th year in Vietnam in October,
Chris Mueller speaks with the face behind the charity about what it has
accomplished and what’s in store. Photos by Fred Wissink.
Sister Trish Franklin is already
well-known in the expat
community, especially among
Carlton Football Club supporters.
The 61-year-old Australian
has been living in Vietnam for
18 years, 15 of them leading
the Loreto Vietnam-Australia
Project. In the process, she has
become the face of the charity,
helping more than 25,000
disabled and disadvantaged
children throughout Vietnam.
While the charity previously
focused on helping disabled
children, Trish has taken Loreto
further into the remote areas of
Vietnam.
This new direction began at
the end of 2010 after receiving
requests for support in Phu Yen
province along the south central
coast, as well as another school
in Ca Mau, the southern-most
province in Vietnam.
These newest projects are
meant to not only target the disabled,
but bring much-needed
kindergartens and schools to
areas that have few. Despite the
large demand for a kindergarten
in the Phu Yen community, there
was only room for 30 students,
all 5 years old.
“When we arrived there
was only a small stone house
with no toilets, running water
or resources,” Trish says. “The
teacher had to carry buckets of
water to the classroom.”
Now that the kindergarten in
Phu Yen is finished, complete
with a kitchen, eating area and
playground, more than 250
students attend. Many villagers
passing by describe the school
as “their town’s palace”, she
says.
Soon after construction in
Phu Yen began, Trish was walking
along a small road, when
she came across a young girl
with cerebral palsy, a disability
she commonly works with in
Vietnam. This little girl, she
says, brought her full-circle.
“It’s like being on a journey,”
she says. “Is that destiny? Is that
meant to be? I think that was
destiny.”
Trish says her faith is important
to her but only uses it as
personal guidance and doesn’t
let her Catholic beliefs dictate
the direction of her organisation.
She first joined the Loreto
Sisters in 1970, before the order
sent her to Thailand to work on
refugee camps in 1985. It was
there that she first started working
with Vietnamese children,
which led her to move to Vietnam
in 1995, when she founded
the Vietnam branch of Loreto.
Throughout Loreto’s 15
years in the country, it has built
primary schools, kindergartens
and other educational facilities,
working primarily with children
with disabilities. In Vietnam
there is still a stigma on those
with disabilities, leaving many
families to keep the children
in the house out of shame.
Even among volunteers, which
number in the hundreds, Trish
says it is difficult at first for
them to feel comfortable around
the kids.
“Some of the volunteers think
the kids are dangerous at first,”
she says.
Trish says of all the projects
they have done, the computer
room they built for blind children
in District 10 stands out the
most. Another was a computer
room they built next to a school
in Nha Be, on the outskirts
of Ho Chi Minh City, which
opened in March.
“The kids didn’t even know
how to pull out the keyboards,”
she says. “I hate the things
[computers], but there is no way
any child in the world can be
successful without them.”
One of the main reasons
Loreto has been so successful,
compared to many other
international NGOs, is its ability
and willingness to work with
local governments and convince
them to contribute funding. This
forces the governments to take
responsibility for the projects
and allows them to be successful
long after Loreto leaves. “We
get them to walk beside us,”
she says.
But that may soon change
as Trish prepares to leave the
organisation. Although her departure
will not happen anytime
soon — she says in the next
three to five years — she is planning
for it. “I’m not going to be
here forever,” she says, adding
that she will not leave Vietnam.
Right now she has an
architect and three dedicated
staff members, all of whom are
Vietnamese. Trish says they are
really the ones that make Loreto
run and could continue to do so
if she left. “The are passionate,”
she says. “They are serving their
own people."
All of the Loreto staff say they
couldn’t imagine the organisation
without Trish, but if she
does leave, they say they’d
continue her legacy.
asialife HCMC 37

Photos by Claire Jowell
Desperate to get away from the backpacker scene on a trip across the border to
Cambodia, Claire Jowell finds some peaceful bliss on Koh Rong Island.
For pearly white beaches and
warm calm seas, most travellers
seem to flock to Thailand or
to Vietnam’s Phu Quoc island,
yet little is ever mentioned
about Cambodia’s scatter of
tropical islands. On a recent
trip to Angkor Wat I decided
I needed some serious beach
time and stumbled across one
of Cambodia’s best-kept secrets
(for now).
Most of those who have
been based in Saigon a while,
us self-proclaimed ‘locals’,
prefer to disassociate ourselves
from the scruffy, bangle-laden
backpackers on Pham Ngu Lao
Street — although many of us
were once avid participants of
this group (and have several
pairs of Thai pants in the back
of the wardrobe). When sitting
at one of my favourite cheap
and cheerfuls on Bui Vien Street
I make a concerted effort not to
be mistaken as a tourist. I pull
out all the Vietnamese gestures
and expressions I know and
nod and smile with authority
in the direction of the Aussies
on my left, discussing which
countries they’ve ‘done’ (a term
I well and truly hate). But the
truth is, as soon as I clambered
onto the early bus from Bui
Vien to Phnom Penh I reverted
to my traveller ‘comfortable
pants-beats-sophistication’
attitude.
I ended up ‘doing’ Cambodia.
With all good intentions
of venturing off the common
tourist track, I initially ended
up following it exactly, as so
often happens. As we arrived
down south, however, having
been very unimpressed with
Sihanoukvilles’s happenings,
I finally managed to stray
away from the gappies and
their neon tops and achieve a
little more than just ‘doing’ the
south. We booked a boat with
The Dive Shop to Koh Rong,
knowing little about the island
apart from the fact it had a
dive shop and was three hours
away. At 10am the next day we
approached the landmass, and
it was breathtaking. A pristine
stretch of beach lay ahead of us
only interrupted by a hammock
or two, a handful of foreigners,
and a few carefree children
enjoying the soft sand. Eager to
get involved in the frolicking,
we dumped our bags at the
nearest (and cheapest) room
and hit the beach.
Koh Rong is the largest of
Cambodia’s islands in the Gulf
of Thailand. With 43 kilometres
of beaches, it is largely uninhabited
other than four tiny
villages and a scatter of guesthouses
and bungalows, mostly
foreign-owned. Apart from
long, unspoiled beaches and a
few small wooden structures
the island is a wild and fantastic
jungle. There is no electricity
and, even on the main beach
where we stayed, very few
sounds interrupted our day,
except the children playing in
the water and the water buffalo
carting loads of timber along
the beach. The guesthouses
turn their generators on for a
few hours each evening and
the beach is lit up by scattered
lights marking small gatherings
of people drinking cocktails or
Angkor beers and eating fresh
barbecued seafood at the two
main restaurant bars. Zero
pretence, and zero pressure.
One might even fancy a wallow
with the phosphorescent
plankton that shimmers around
you when you swim in the
ocean at night after devouring a
barbecued crab.
Our few days there consisted
primarily of reading, eating
and drinking. We did, however,
take ourselves off on a jungle
exploration and walked across
the island to an even longer
stretch of sand, where there
was not a soul in sight. The
bungalows on that side of the
mountain are closed in low
season. It was one of those days
where no conversation was
needed, and all communication
between my friend and me
consisted of a few “wows” and
photographs.
There are currently no roads
on the island, although one is
in the process of being built.
And like the age-old story in
Asia, this situation shall be
short-lived, as a 99-year lease
was granted to a development
group to transform the island
into a luxury resort destination.
The island will be developed
over 20 years and phase one
will include two spa resorts, a
beach club, five restaurants and
a lagoon, equipped with an airport,
port roads, power, water
and telecommunications.
So the bottom line is Koh
Rong is currently a slice of raw
paradise, but go now. Soon it is
sure to be on the hot and heavy
tourist route with bars booming
cheesy pop songs. So I ‘did’
Koh Rong before they ‘did’ and
it was magnificent.
asialife HCMC 39

Super Singapore
Take a campy ride through the island country’s not-so-wild side, anchored by
mega-trees that take mechanical efficiency to Mother Nature. By Lien Hoang.
Photo courtesy of Gardens by the Bay.
How do you create green space
on a crowded island city-state
with a booming population?
First, add more island. Then,
as with everything else in the
city, build skyward.
This summer, Singapore
opened to the public its socalled
‘Supertree Grove’, a
collection of 18 artificial trees
that stretch as high as 50 metres
into the air.
The faux forest in the
Gardens by the Bay grows on
reclaimed land. Government
officials literally and controversially
have enlarged the island
by dumping cubic metres of
sand, by the billions, into its
adjacent waters.
With all these new hectares,
Singapore built an airport,
state-sponsored housing, and
more recently, the larger-thanlife
woods.
The Supertree Grove is part
of a broader urban plan on the
island’s southern tip. Think
of the facelift in Marina Bay
as official attempts to make
Singapore both more liveable to
young professionals and more
appealing to tourists.
To explore this upgraded
playground, the Supertrees are
a good place to start. Planners
have dubbed them vertical
gardens, which support ferns,
orchids, and 200 other species
on concrete trunks. Forming
patterns of cool colours on some
trees and warm colours on
others, the plants were chosen
because they grow well vertically
and suit the local climate
yet are rare in Singapore, many
coming from Latin America.
With more than 150,000 plants,
40 asialife HCMC

the fake trees help circulate air,
collect rainwater and harness
solar energy.
That alternative electricity
comes in handy at night, when
the 18 giants awake in a sound
and light show that brings out
an even more colourful side to
all the flowers and greenery
seen during the day. Take in
the music, smell the mysterious
scent of sandalwood, and stroll
along the network of paths
and bridges that crisscross the
park’s man-made ponds (which
were added to the land, which
was added to the ocean).
The oversized forest tells
thoughtful visitors a lot about
how far Singapore has come
and where it is headed. In its
history, the island nation has
added more than 100 square
kilometres of land, and the
Gardens by the Bay, sprouted
on some of that reclaimed land,
is similarly an outcome of such
authoritarian planning. To lure
travellers, officials had to devise
a vice-free attraction and think
outside the box of the excesses
of nightlife. Singapore’s rigid
politics and mechanical efficiency
do not exactly make for
a hotbed of arts and creativity.
That should, therefore, help
one appreciate that the unique
gardens of 18 trees, which are
spectacular if campy in a way
particular to Singapore, are no
small product of the imagination.
The formal planning that
went into the Grove targets
another group: locals, especially
working professionals.
As the population has roughly
doubled over the course of
three decades, Singapore has
grappled openly with curating
a sustainable home to keep the
talent. One result has been the
Bay Central Garden, the Bay
East Garden, and the Bay South
Garden, where most of the Supertrees
live. With the gardens,
Singapore strives for its own
Central Park or Hyde Park to
give urbanites an oasis.
Aside from green goals, a
minor theme of the Marina Bay
remodel is kitsch and grandeur
that must function in the
framework of safe politics. On
the reclaimed land, the powers
that be are redrawing the
downtown skyline of Singapore
with a mammoth ferris wheel
that dwarfs the Supertrees,
as well as a massive casino of
three towers connected by a
boat-shaped top. Don’t worry
about the vice — one needs a
foreign passport to enter the
gambling halls, so Singaporeans
themselves stay clean. But they,
and anyone who eschews foolish
betting, still can enjoy the
new Marina Bay Sands casino
and resort by climbing to the
rooftop bar. In a part of the city
where tall is the name of the
game, there’s no shortage of
great views from high-rises. But
at this hotel bar, even against
the dance music, one can find
quiet escapes to behold the
island. Look down on a waterfront
with a footbridge and
a floating sports field-turnedtheatre.
In the evening, the casino
beams out its own light show
from the three skyscrapers, but
for a better production, head
down to the nearby Waterfront
Promenade. In regular,
nightly sound and light shows,
shooting jets of water, bad 90s
music, bubbles, and (best of all)
video clips projected onto the
spraying water will serve up
about as much camp as you can
handle.
asialife HCMC 41

Beat the Heat
The day was beastly hot, not
long ago. I was stumbling
through the narrow alleyways
of ‘the Pham’, keeping track
of all the continuous changes
and deciding if they were good
or bad. It’s part of my job as a
self-appointed arbiter of taste. I
was sweating bullets and much
in need of blessed relief. Now
if you’ve lived long anywhere
in the tropics you know that
there is a great and universal
constant that offers such relief.
It’s more pleasant than shade
and cheaper than air-con. It’s
more reliable than rain and you
don’t need an umbrella, though
sometimes you get one with it.
I’m talking about the venerable
and curiously refreshing gin
and tonic.
I was navigating the very
narrow alley where Le Pub’s
back door used to offer entry
and egress until they padlocked
it to keep passers-by from
traipsing through the kitchen.
Six steps south of the forbidden
portal lay the inviting Bread
and Butter bar and its upscale
upstairs café. I staggered in and
heaved myself up a tall stool at
the end of the bar. Behind said
bar stood Dan Carey, owneroperator
and sympathetic
ear to overheated wayfarers.
He looked at me through his
Maryland-born rock-n-roll eyes
and already knew my need.
But I voiced it anyway. “G and
T,” says I. “Tall.” Dan deftly
filled a tall, slender glass with
shimmering ice and squeezed a
wedge worth of tangy lime juice
over it. He poured an honest
measure of honest gin, a thing
we still can’t always count on in
this town. He topped it off with
pleasingly bitter tonic water and
set the already sweating glass
before me. Not only was I about
to imbibe liquid comfort, but in
simply contemplating this crystal
clear column of restoration
I was imbibing a tradition of
tropical life that goes back more
than 150 years.
To be sure the G and T isn’t
limited to the tropics. Indeed,
according to the novel Restaurant
at the End of the Universe,
it’s all over the cosmos. But it
is a child of the tropics, and it
has been a mainstay of elbowbenders
in Saigon for generations.
Back in the early 1990s
it was the only mixed drink I
could find here. Everything else
alcoholic was either warm beer
or straight whisky. So whence
came this perfect balance of
taste, aroma and ability to
slake a tropic thirst? We start
in India. There the army of the
British East India Company was
battling malaria. At the time,
the only remedy for the dread
disease was quinine, an extract
of the bark of the cinchona tree
(Cinchona officinalis), native to
the Andean region of South
America. It is quinine that gives
your tonic water its distinctive
bitter flavour. However, as the
Brits soon learned, in medicinal
quantities the stuff is too bitter
to swallow by itself. So the
wise British sawbones added a
goodly slug of London Dry to
make the medicine go down.
And this begs the question:
what exactly is gin? It was
invented by Dr Franciscus
Sylvius of Amsterdam about
400 years ago. He meant it to
be a treatment for such aches
and pains as gout and lumbago.
He concocted it by flavouring
neutral grain spirits with botanical
essences such as coriander,
cassia, and anise. But the most
important is juniper berry
(Juniperus communis), and all
gins to this day must use it as
the chief essence. It’s what gives
gin its distinctive, almost pinelike,
aroma. In Dutch, juniper
is ‘jenever’. Hence, the English
‘gin’. And of course while there
are a few styles of gin, the most
popular today is London Dry.
The variety of lime most
often used in our drink is the
Citrus aurantifolia, often known
as ‘bartender’s lime’. And
while we can justly thank the
Tommies (for some reason they
“Not only was I about to imbibe
liquid comfort, but in simply
contemplating this crystal clear
column of restoration I was imbibing
a tradition of tropical life that goes
back over 150 years.”
don’t like the term Limey) for
our basic cocktail, it is thought
that the Yanks perfected it with
‘ice and slice’. Evidence for this
is displayed in any proper pub
in the UK. Order gin and tonic
and that’s all you get: tonic and
gin. But don’t worry, here in
Saigon people know how to do
it right. And there is one more
little improvement on the tropical
thirst quencher that we can
thank a Yank for. Step into Dan’s
bar in Bread and Butter. Belly
up or take a seat. Then tell Dan
you would like a trip to London.
He’ll set you up with a good
and proper G and T and a Huda
beer back. It just keeps getting
better. Cheers!
42 asialife HCMC

May
Traditional, natural Vietnamese food served up in a gorgeous old
mansion. By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Fred Wissink.
Nestled inside a typical
Vietnamese alley off the canal
running between District 1 and
Binh Thanh, May occupies a
spacious old house that has
been redecorated to evoke the
French colonial era. Dark wood
flooring and furniture, plus
homages to decades past fill
three floors including a rooftop
terrace. There is also an open
kitchen so customers can watch
as their meal is prepared.
Named after the Vietnamese
word for ‘cloud’, May is run
by Thai To Tho, the French-
Vietnamese woman who was
the brain behind Cuc Gach
Quan when it first opened. The
menu is made up of recipes
perfected by Tho’s Vietnamese
father, who travelled back to
Vietnam from France to train
the cooks. The food is meant to
be as natural as possible, and
no MSG is used in their dishes.
The menu features a number
of traditional Vietnamese
dishes including salads, meat
options and seafood. Prices are
reasonable, especially considering
the quality of the ingredients,
with most items costing
between VND 60,000 and VND
150,000. The drinks menu
offers vintages from around
the world plus an enticing
selectoin of cocktails.
We start off with the Sunday
fried spring rolls (VND 60,000),
a family specialty that includes
rice paper fried in beer and
vinegar. The rolls felt lighter
and less greasy than most of
their fried counterparts, and
their unconventional preparation
gave them a unique
flavour.
Next up was the Sunday
salad (VND 80,000), a pile of
lettuce, watercress, tomatoes,
onions and stir-fried beef. The
portion was big enough for two
and was a refreshing dish on a
hot afternoon. We also tried the
zucchini flowers stir-fried with
garlic (VND 60,000), which
tasted like they came straight
from the garden.
Finally, we went for the
pink duck breast with ginger
nuoc mam (VND 200,000). The
sizeable portion was perfectly
cooked and wonderfully tender.
The ginger sauce also gave
the dish a unique kick. For a
big fan of duck, this was the
highlight of an already excellent
meal.
May strives to create natural,
fresh, and healthy food, and
you can taste this effort in the
dishes. With its great prices,
beautiful interior and fantastic
food, May is a must-try.
3/5 Hoang Sa, Da Kao Ward, D1.
08 39 10 12 77
10am – 1am, seven days. Last
table seated at 11pm.
asialife HCMC 43

DeciBel
A simple menu of well-executed dishes in a unique and hip setting.
By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Nam Quan.
DeciBel, a versatile eatery
on the edge of District 1, is
the type of place one would
expect to see somewhere like
Brooklyn, not Saigon. The
owners have created a sort of
collective of creative people,
with indie films screened every
Wednesday night, live music,
and monthly exhibitions of
photography and graphic
design. Alternative music from
around the world drifts out of
the speaker system while hip
young patrons gaze at their
iPads.
The restaurant’s first floor
features a small stage and simple
seating, while the upstairs
is decked out in plush sofas to
create more of a lounge feel.
The bar features an impressive
array of cocktails crafted by an
international bartender, and
from 5pm to 8pm every day
they cost just VND 60,000.
The menu includes tapas, salads,
pasta and western mains
such as burgers and steak.
Nearly everything costs under
VND 150,000. These dishes
aren’t groundbreaking, but they
are very well-executed, and
more exotic selections will be
available in the coming months.
Our first dish is an appetizer
of Croquettas (VND 70,000),
fried potatoes stuffed with
chicken and béchamel. They
manage to be the right combination
of fluffy on the inside,
but crispy on the outside and
are a good, light way to start
the meal.
The 200-gram Australian
steak (VND 200,000) served
with a side of mashed potatoes
and gravy is next. The steak is
full of flavour and cooked to
medium-rare perfection, and
the potatoes perform admirably
as well.
Finally, we decide to make
this a large meal and go for
the chicken parmesan (VND
120,000) along with a side of
wedge fries. A huge slab of
chicken slathered with mozzarella
cheese and tomato sauce
shows up and it can easily be
split between two people.
DeciBel’s food isn’t quite
what one would expect from a
restaurant with such creative
ambition, but that isn’t a criticism.
The cooks aren’t trying to
be needlessly fancy or cute, and
the menu is very appealing as a
result. The dishes are good and
reasonably priced.
Of course deciBel isn’t just
about food, and its openness
to film, photography and other
creative outlets means it is more
than just a restaurant. That
being said, eating here is well
worth your time, particularly
if you’re in the mood for some
comfort food.
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Da Kao
Ward, D1
Ph: 08 62 71 01 15
7am-12am seven days
44 asialife HCMC

Bahdja
A District 1 restaurant serving authentic and high-quality North
African cuisine. By Claire Jowell. Photos by Fred Wissink.
This charming North African
restaurant can be found tucked
away in the centre of town and
is lovingly run by the Algerian
owner, Ahmed, and his wife,
Anna. The décor is simple
yet stylish, with locally-made
wooden carvings that replicate
an Algerian setting, coupled
with relics from Ahmed’s
hometown.
The couple was extremely
hospitable, quickly and
ceremoniously pouring us tea
from an ornate set. All their
dishes are cooked as they are
ordered and are made with
the highest-quality ingredients,
which Ahmed and Anna
say took a long time to search
out. Their homemade bread
is baked fresh every morning
and is served as an entrée with
an aubergine pate, harissa
paste and pickled gherkins and
chillis (all prepared by Ahmed).
The menu consists of five
starters, three different couscous
dishes and two tajines.
The mains are ideal for sharing,
as is the tradition in Algeria,
and larger groups can enjoy a
taste of all the dishes. To start
with we were served a platter
of all five of their starters:
tomato paprika salad, chicken
salad, tuna bourek, minced
bourek, and prawn salad. All
were delicious, but special
mention has to go to the fresh
and flavourful grilled tomato
paprika salad, which comes
in a parmesan basket (VND
90,000). The minced beef
bourek (VND 130,000) was also
flawlessly spiced and wrapped
in a light, crispy pastry. Next
we were given the slowcooked
beef, apple and prune
tajine (VND 250,000), which is
cooked for four hours until the
imported beef is tender. The
sweetness of the soft fruits was
offset well by the rich tomato
and onion sauce, and the meal
comes with their homemade
bread to soak up the sauce.
Finally we tried the fine,
golden couscous with an assortment
of meats, including
merguez (paprika-spiced sausage),
chicken, and succulent
lamb chops (ranging from
VND 220,000 to VND 390,000,
depending on the choice of
meat). Their couscous comes
Algerian-style, which means a
thick tomato-based vegetable
stew is served separate from
the couscous, which is served
separate from the meat. The
combination of flavours was
excellent and we finished our
meal extremely satisfied. Bahdja
is an intimate and charming
restaurant ideal for a romantic
date, a festive group dinner or
a private event.
87-89-91 Ho Trung Mau, D1
Ph: 12 27 63 12 61
Monday to Friday 11.30am to 2pm
and 6pm to 11pm, Saturday 6pm
to 11pm.
asialife HCMC 45

French Connection
The owners of a rare District 1 French villa have converted it into a
café, preserving its unique architectural heritage. By Chris Mueller.
Photos by Fred Wissink.
Across the street from the aging,
yellow walls of a shipyard
and colonial-style warehouses
lies a building that stands out
from new, hastily built developments.
Constructed in the 1930s,
this French villa originally was
used as bachelor quarters for
the French navy, but recently
has been converted into a café
that aims to take its guests
back in time.
The large villa on Ton Duc
Thang Street is actually one
building. But a wall bisects it
to form the offices of a real estate
company on one side and
the newly-opened MonPERE
Café on the other.
Nguyen Duong and his family
have made few changes to
the building since he received
it in 1988 for his service in the
Vietnamese navy. From 1994
to 2011, the family rented it
to Landis Hicks, an American
engineer who worked for an
architectural company and
whose maintenance helped
preserve the villa.
“When we moved in, not
much had been done to it
over a long period of time,”
says Hicks, who still lives and
works in Ho Chi Minh City.
“We tried to restore it to its
original design.”
Today, that design remains
almost entirely intact and the
owners plan to keep it that
way, says Giang, the granddaughter
of Duong, who
opened the café. Although the
walls have been repainted, she
says they used the exact same
colour from when they moved
in. They’ve even retained the
original faded, black and white
checkered tiles.
Structurally the building is
as it would have been in the
1930s. When Hicks moved in,
the building was in need of
repair, but from what he could
tell nothing had been changed
from the original floor plan.
The most significant change he
made was putting glass in the
windows so the villa could be
air-conditioned.
Giang says when her family
took over the apartment from
Hicks she was amazed at what
she found. “I had never seen
anything like this before,” she
says.
Behind clusters of bamboo
and a large iron gate, a small
terrace with several tables
separates the villa from the
street. Once inside, the busy
honking of traffic gives way
to soft jazz emanating from an
old phonograph.
Like so many villas of its
time, MonPERE has a core
room surrounded by a corridor.
In the room, several
plush sofas and a number of
armchairs are placed around
dark wooden tables. The sofa
and armchair combination
allows for both a laid-back and
work-friendly environment.
From a piano at the front of the
room, classical music is played
every Saturday night.
The corridor also has several
tables, chairs and sofas, but offers
more privacy. Upstairs has
the same layout as the ground
floor and is in original condition,
but hasn’t been renovated
yet. Giang says she plans to
turn it into a spa.
Hicks says there used to be
several other villas along the
same stretch of road, but developers
have bought up and
leveled them. As the buildings
around MonPERE continue
to get taller, this café stands
as one of the few remaining
privately-owned villas in the
city, and is something both
Giang and Hicks feel should be
protected.
“It’s our history,” says
Giang. “When new generations
want to study Vietnam’s
history, there should be places
like this for them to see.”
MonPERE Café is located at
5H Ton Duc Thang Street,
District 1.
46 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 47

48 asialife HCMC
STREET CHIC

Left
Pleated linen dress embroidered with mother
of pearl sequins (VND 1,700,000)
Big Gold Bracelet
Materials: metal (nickel free) and strass
Small Gold Bracelet
Materials : metal (nickel free) and strass
Right
Flower Hmong embroidered silk-cotton top
(VND 1,390,000)
Linen circle skirt (VND 1,250,000)
Red Elegant GrandPa Necklace (Family Collection)
Materials: metal (nickel free), glass and amethyst
stones
Small Gold Bracelet
Materials : metal (nickel free) and strass
asialife HCMC 49

50 asialife HCMC

Left
Linen biker jacket and shorts with Thai ethnic
lining (VND 2,720,000 and VND 1,210,000)
Sleeveless Peter Pan collar cotton top.
(VND 1,180,000)
Nefertiti Moonstone Necklace
Materials : metal (nickel free) and moonstone
Big Gold Bracelet
Materials: metal (nickel free) and strass
Right
V-neck linen and Lu ethnic minority handwoven
cotton shift dress (VND 2,100,000)
Kind, Knit and Kiss Necklace or Granny Necklace
(Family Collection)
Materials: metal (nickel free), porcelain and strass
Small Gold Bracelet
Materials: metal (nickel free) and strass
Photos by Fred Wissink
asialife HCMC 51

listings
hotel &
travel
AIRLINES
Air Asia
254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810
www.airasia.com
Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates
one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi,
as well as international flights to Bangkok,
Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.
Cathay Pacific
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com
Hong Kong-based airline makes three
flights daily to HCM City and two flights
daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.
Malaysia Airlines
Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center
37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663
www.malaysiaairlines.com
Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM
City to Kuala Lumpur, with four economy
class fare levels: low, basic, smart and
flex.
Turkish Airlines
8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1
Tel: 3936 0360
www.turkishairlines.com
Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe
offers the brand new Comfort Class to E
conomy class: 46inch leg room, personalised
entertainment screen and globally
awarded cuisine on-board.
Vietnam Airlines
Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 6270 0200
HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115
Nguyen Hue, D1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com.vn
The domestic route map is extensive,
with several flights daily between major
and less touristed cities throughout
Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout
Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow,
Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San
Francisco.
CON DAO
Six Senses Con Dao
Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria
Tel: 064 3831 222
www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
The first 5 star resort with 50 villas
stretch across a mile-long beach, each
villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing
the ocean and a stunning restaurant.
DALAT
Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa
Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888
www.anamandara-resort.com
Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17
restored early 20th-century villas and
65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La
Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of
treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant
serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.
Heated swimming pool, art gallery and
cooking classes in organic garden.
activities
Dalat Easy Rider Tours
70 Phan Dinh Phung
dalateasyriders@yahoo.com
www.dalat-easyrider.com
Ride pillion with English-, French- or
German-speaking tour guides on
motorbike adventures that start in Dalat
and snake through mountains, jungles
and deltas, lasting anywhere from three
to 21 days.
HANOI
Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888
www.intercontinental.com
Located on the waterfront with contemporary
Vietnamese design, restaurants,
business services, fitness centre including
exercise classes and pool.
Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi
83A Ly Thuong Kiet
Tel: 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hotels.com
Conveniently located in the heart of
Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute
drive from Noi Bai International Airport
and only 5 minutes from the city centre,
Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest
five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet
the needs of discerning guests and
especially corporate travellers.
Sheraton Hotel Hanoi
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 04 3719 9000
www.starwoodhotels.com
“Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious
guest rooms with panoramic views,
fitness centre, international restaurant
and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.
Sofitel Metropole
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 04 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel
with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving
French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus
Italian steak house.
HO CHI MINH CITY
Caravelle Hotel
19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel:
3823 4999
www.caravellehotel.com
One of the city’s most prestigious
venues. Features a casino, Reflections
Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor
Saigon Saigon Bar.
Equatorial
242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839
7777
www.equatorial.com/hcm
On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333
rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant
and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up
bar), gym.
InterContinental Asiana Saigon
Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3520 9999
saigon@interconti.com
www.intercontinental.com/saigon
305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling
windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/
banquet facilities, spa/health club
and lounge with panoramic view.
Mövenpick Hotel Saigon
253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: 3844 9222
www.moevenpick-saigon.com
Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites,
five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet
escape take flight with travel promotions around the region
Summer Saver
The Caravelle is offering 50 percent off its
published room rates until 30 September,
with complimentary unlimited use of Wi-Fi
Internet in room and throughout the hotel.
This month guests also can book deluxe
rooms with daily buffet breakfast and
roundtrip airport transfers starting at VND 4
million per night for two or more nights. For
bookings, email: rsvn@caravellehotel.com
or call 08 38 23 49 99. The hotel is at 19
Lam Son Square, District 1.
Island Tradition
A package focusing on Vietnamese culture
at Six Senses hotel comes with a Vietnamese
green tea scrub, natural facial and
Vietnamese massage. Then head to the
cooking class to learn traditional cuisine in
a typical market setting, using an original
design in a wood burning oven. The
hotel also provides an historical tour of the
island, daily buffet and a la carte breakfast
and airport transfers. Also available are 30
percent discounts for three or more nights,
until 31 October, or 10 percent discounts
for booking more than 30 days in advance,
until 15 October. Info at sixsenses.com/
sixsensescondao.
Honeymoon in Phan Thiet
Set on the secluded and pristine Ke Ga bay,
facing a century-old French light house,
the Princess d'Annam is the first all-villa
luxury boutique resort in Vietnam. The
resort style mixes modernist sensibility and
post-colonial ambience. With 57 villas, eight
swimming pools, two restaurants, and a
1,800-square-metre spa complex, Princess
d’Annam has a French management team
with personalized attention, including a
24-hour butler service. Those who stay
five nights get a free cocktail and head and
shoulder massage, for eight nights it’s a
body massage. Honeymooners, ask for the
bed decoration with flowers, fruit basket,
sparkling wine and chocolate upon turn
dow. Visit princessannam.com.
Dalat’s Vegetable Fields
Evason Ana Mandara Villas Dalat sits on 35
acres of suburban parkland that forms its
own unique compound, an area originally
known as the 'Bellevue Quarter', a nod to
the rich French influence. Striking views
of the surrounding town, countryside and
flourishing vegetable fields abound from all
areas of the gently sloping hillside property.
Through 31 October, two-night bookings
come with dinner, three nights are charged
for two, and four nights are charged for
three in addition to dinner. Honeymooners
get a free upgrade to the next category,
massage, herbal bath, champagne, and
other discounts. See anamandara-resort.
com.
Stay 3, Pay 2 in Nha Trang
Novotel Nha Trang is charging for just two
nights when three consecutive nights are
booked, through 31 October. The hotel
offers guests in house complimentary
use of the sauna, steam bath, swimming
pool, gym, Mac computer at the lobby,
sun lounge and towel at a private beach.
Contact 058 625 6900 or novotel-nhatrang.
com. The hotel is at 50 Tran Phu street,
Nha Trang city.
52 asialife HCMC

facilities and a shopping arcade as well
as a popular e-gaming centre.
Park Hyatt
2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234
www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21
suites, lobby lounge with live music,
Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining
at Square One.
Windsor Plaza
18 An Duong Vuong, D5
Tel: 3833 6688
services@windsorplazahotel.com
www.windsorplazahotel.com
Located in a main shopping hub. Three
restaurants, modern discotheque,
conference centre, shopping centre,
supermarket.
activities
Vietnam Vespa Adventures
169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao
Tel: 3920 3897
www.vietnamvespaadventures.com
Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to
Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on
classic Vespas.
HOI AN & DANANG
Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa
Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040
www.victoriahotels-asia.com
Set on its own stretch of beach with
105 rooms spread through a traditional
fishing village design of small “streets”
and ponds.
HUE
Pilgrimage Village Resort
& Spa
130 Minh Mang
Tel: 054 3885 461
www.pilgrimagevillage.com
Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and
villa accommodation draws on natural
environment and local culture. Features
Vedana spa, two restaurants serving
Vietnamese & Western food and imported
wines and three bar/lounges.
Vedana Lagoon
Resort & Spa
112 Minh Mang
Tel: 054 3830 240
www.vedanaresorts.com
Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and
serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort &
spa is ideally situated between the two
cities well-known as world heritage sites:
hue and hoi an. The resort designed
with a stylist harmony between the local
traditional culture and a modern art
concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2
houseboats.
NHA TRANG
Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa
Tel: 058 3728 222
www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara
An island hideaway accessible only by
boat, 58 private pool villas, international
and local restaurants, wedding services,
water sports and scuba diving.
Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang
Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang
Tel: 058 3522 222
www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara
Beachside resort set in 26,000 square
metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest
villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.
Mia Resort Nha Trang
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa
Tel: 58 398 9666
www.mianhatrang.com
Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms
divided into villas and condos, catering
by wel-known restaurant Sandals and
Mojito's bar.
PHAN THIET
Villa Aria Muine
60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne
Tel: 062 3741 660
www.villaariamuine.com
Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach
resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan
province. Set on a beautiful beachfront
in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the
villa combines modern tropical style and
French country luxury.
Princess D’Annam Resort
and Spa
Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh
Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222
www.princessannam.com
Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive
villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants
and 1,800 square metres spa
complex.
The Sailing Club
24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne,
Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440
www.sailingclubvietnam.com
Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious
rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and
day spa.
Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa
Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000
www.victoriahotels-asia.com
Located on a private beach, 60 cosy
bungalows, natural spa experiences
among other great activities on offer at
the resort
SAPA
Victoria Sapa Resort
Sapa District, Lao Cai Province
Tel: 020 0871 522
www.victoriahotels-asia.com
Mountain chalet perched over the village
wth cosy but modern guestrooms
overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van
restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan
and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth
fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by
private train.
SCUBA DIVING
Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres
recognized by international dive training
programs, such as the Professional
Association of Dive Instructors (PADI)
and Scuba Schools International (SSI).
We strongly advise against diving with
unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.
Rainbow Divers
55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2
Tel: 3744 6825
www.divevietnam.com
Diving tours and career/instructor
development offered by Vietnam’s first
PADI centre. established in the mid-90s.
Operates dive centres in Nha Trang,
Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.
VUNG TAU
Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa
Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc
Tel: 06 4378 1525
www.hotramresort.com
Located about 45km from Vung Tau in
the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram
Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely
designed bungalows and villas.
TRAVEL AGENTS
Buffalo Tours Agency
HCMC: Tel: 3827 9170
Hanoi: Tel: 04 3828 0702
www.buffalotours.com.vn
Exotissimo
HCMCinfosgn@exotissimo.com
pmh@exotissimo.com
HANOI: infohanoi@exotissimo.com
www.exotissimo.com
asialife HCMC 53

listings
environment with frequent live music.
Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including
paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three
plates. Open late daily.
South American fusion dishes and a few
delectable deserts. Variety of good wines
by the glass or bottle.
www.moevenpick-saigon.com
Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most
delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and
sandwiches.
food &
drink
BAR RESTAURANTS
Alibi
11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240
Hip without being showy, this versatile
venue has a pleasant front porch, stand
up bar and comfortable lounge seating
with bright, warm décor and great tunes.
Drinks list is extensive and the food menu
boasts French-style mains.
Buddha Bar
7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080
An Phu institution serves up tasty meals
and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment.
Plenty of room to relax inside or
out, plus a pool table on premise.
Corso Steakhouse & Bar
Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso
Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its
steak imported from the US and Australia.
Good destination for both lunch and
dinner.
La Habana
6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180
www.lahabana-saigon.com
This charming little place has seating
indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs
to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed
Le Pub
175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1
www.lepub.org
One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering
holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of
well-executed pub grub and international
favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all
day and specials are offered daily.
Mogambos
50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311
This restaurant has been around since the
mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its
enduring quality. Specializes in American
grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads
served in a pleasant atmosphere.
Pasha Bar & Restaurant
25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77
www.pasha.com.vn
Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located
in heart of HCMC serves halal and high
quality food with ingredients imported
from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt,
New Zealand, Japan and France. Long
happy hour half price by glass. Various
shisha flavours.
Phatty’s
46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1
Tel: 3821 0705
www.phattysbar.com
Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s
sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a
large drop-down screen and lots of pub
grub and beer for fans looking to take in a
game or two.
Qing
110 Pasteur, D1
www.qing.com.vn
Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le
Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/
Sheridan's Irish House
17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Tel: 3823 0793
www.sheridansbarvn.com
Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a
pleasant atmosphere and regular live music.
Wide range of classic pub grub, East
Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast
fry-up available from 8 am.
The Tavern
R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7
Tel: 5410 3900
Boasts good international food, a pool
table, dartboards and sports coverage on
large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple
levels. Second floor sports lounge
hosts DJs at the weekends.
Vasco’s Bar
74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888
Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets
packed to capacity on weekends. Open
Monday to Saturday with live music on
Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10
years experience at La Camargue. Also
does excellent pizza.
ZanZBar
41 Dong Du, D1
Funky, modern interiors and varied
international breakfast, lunch and dinner
cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails,
gourmet espresso coffee, and happy
hours make ZanZBar a great after-work
spot. Open late.
CAFES
Cay Da Cafe
Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon
253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118
Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf
12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1
94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3
Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5
Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1
International café chain with a wide
variety of coffees and teas, as well as
light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted
coffee beans and tins of whole
leaf tea.
Mojo
88 Dong Khoi, D1
www.sheratonsaigon.com
A top-end cafe with an attractive interior,
outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable
lounges upstairs. Good business
coffee or lunch venue.
That’s Café
Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong,
D2
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu
My Hung, D7
Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is
a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to
provide the best coffee in town in a
comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s
a great place to hold a business meeting
or catch up with friends.
X Cafe
58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142
Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe
decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.
Popular with local makers and shakers,
has a great open-plan upstairs area and
two outdoor terraces. Regular live music
and homemade ice cream.
CHINESE
Li Bai
Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1
feast broaden your palate with promotions around town
New Set Menu
Park Hyatt Saigon debuted customised set
dinner menus in Square One and Opera.
Making it easier for guests to dine without
the pressure of having to choose from the
à la carte menu, the chefs have crafted
coursed menus to present a dining experience
full of flavour. To offer the best seasonal
ingredients and produce, the menus
will be changed monthly with new original
creations. Current selections at Square
One include Cornichon and truffle mayonnaise,
and crispy skinned barramundi fillet
with a bisque sauce, while guests at Opera
choose dishes like fish stew with sausage
and vegetable cous cous or chilled
marsala raspberry soup and fried basil.
Prices begin at VND 580,000.
Gourmet Burgers
Gourmands and comfort food fans can
find common ground in the Caravelle’s
new main: The exclusive burger, panseared
French duck liver, truffle-infused
egg and mayonnaise, slow cooked-onions
and Italian Taleggio cheese arrive riding
a flame-grilled patty of minced US beef
stuffed with braised beef rib, all layered between
a freshly baked parmesan bun and
served with hand-cut potato chips. Take
a bite out of the burger for VND 550,000
from 12 to 18 September, between noon
and 10pm at Reflections Restaurant, Restaurant
Nineteen, or the Lobby Lounge at
the Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square,
District 1.
Home-made Moon Cakes
Celebrate this Mid-Autumn Festival with
Shang Palace’s home-made moon cakes,
which are available in a myriad of creative
creations including seven flavours by Hong
Kong chef Lim Eng Cheong. Ingredients
range from assorted nuts, pandan mung
bean paste, white lotus with macadamia,
and egg yolk. For those who prefer the
petite and delicate chilled snow skin moon
cakes, choices include durian paste, green
tea lotus paste, and coffee mung bean
paste.
The limited edition of Shang Palace’s
elegant designed box can be used as a
gift, through 30 September.
Korean Fare, from Korea
Until 14 September, in conjunction with
AT Korea Agro-Fisheries & Food Trade
Corporation, the Market 39 restaurant of
InterContinental Asiana Saigon is offering
the Authentic Korean Cuisine Discovery
Journey. Prices are VND 498,000 for the
lunch buffet (food only) and VND 728,000
for the buffet dinner, including free flow of
soft drinks, beer and house wine. The buffet
includes Korean dishes rich in spices
and nutritional value like kimchi, bulgogi,
bibmbap and jajangmyeon. The event is
also part of the activities marking the 20th
anniversary of the relationship between
Korea and Vietnam. A guest chef team is
flying down from leading hotels in Korea.
Muffin Time
Mekong Merchant is introducing a batch
of new muffin flavours for VND 35,000 with
the purchase of coffee until 30 September.
They include Rhubarb and Apple, White
Chocolate and Raspberry, Moist Classic
Blueberry and others. Don’t forget their
happy hour Monday to Friday 4pm to
7pm, with discounted drinks and complimentary
appetisers. The restaurant is
located at 23 Thao Dien Street, Thao Dien
Ward, District 2.
54 asialife HCMC

street gourmet
hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral
gallery make for a relaxing dining experience
at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi
Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king
prawns. Be sure to check out monthly
specials.
Popular venue with an enormous menu.
Serves both southern and northern Indian
dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly
snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian
dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater
service is available.
Bo bia ngot
If you're looking for a
mid-afternoon pick-meup,
bo bia ngot is a sure
thing. Found throughout
the South, it's made with
sugarcane, shredded
coconut and black sesame
seeds neatly wrapped in
sweet rice paper. As the
sugar cane melts, it turns
into a sticky paste, making
this already extra-sweet
Tel: 3827 2828
Imperial-styled restaurant named after
a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch
time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.
Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going
from 100,000 VND.
Lotus Court
1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon
253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168
www.moevenpick-saigon.com
Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine
in a unique and elegant setting.
treat even sweeter. Bo bia
ngot carts are often found
near schools by the ca vien
chien (fried fish ball) carts
and are popular afterschool
snacks with young
children. But, be warned:
eat too many of these tasty
indulgences and you won't
have room for dinner. A
serving will cost you VND
5,000.
Ming Dynasty
23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung
Tel: 5411 5555
Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers
100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes
prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The
restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free
flow of wine.
Ngan Dinh Chinese
Restaurant
Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18
An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688
Beautiful wood paneling, colourful
Shang Palace Restaurant
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21
Ly Tu Trong, D1
Tel: 3823 2221
www.shangpalace.com.vn
An upscale Chinese restaurant with a
spacious and welcoming atmosphere.
The menu boasts a wide range of Hong
Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both
dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly
changed by the creative chefs.
Yu Chu
InterContinental Asiana Saigon,
corner of Hai Ba Trung
and Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3520 9099
dine@icasianasaigon.com
Specializing in authentic Cantonese and
Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef
prepares dishes including handmade
noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.
Wide selection of live seafood. Five
interactive kitchens.
FRENCH
Au Manoir de Khai
251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394
This top-end contemporary French restaurant
is set in a picturesque colonial villa
with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior.
Full of private rooms and opulent lounge
areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild
of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai
of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such
as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck
liver, salmon medallions with Moet and
escalope de foie gras.
Le Bouchon de Saigon
40 Thai Van Lung, D1
Tel: 3829 9263
This French diner-style restaurant has an
emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous
service and a relaxed atmosphere
Chefs David Thai an Alexis Melgrani
are well known industry figures and this
venue can hold its own among the city`s
many French restaurants
INDIAN
Saigon Indian
73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671
Tandoor
74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839
www.tandoorvietnam.com
Part of a chain of restaurants covering
Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features
a large selection of standard northern
Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian
selection. Excellent cheap set lunches
and reasonable prices all around. Will
organize catering for events.
INTERNATIONAL
Al Fresco’s
21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427
27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317
D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093
400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840
www.alfrescosgroup.com
Theme restaurant boasting a range of
Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ
dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian
ribs coupled with a good atmosphere
and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.
Amigo Grill
55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248
Outstanding steaks made with Australian,
U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy,
family-friendly environment with large
tables and banquette seating. Dishes like
leg of lamb and seafood are also on the
menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.
Au Parc
23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772
Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing
from Moroccan and French styles and
popular during lunchtime with expats.
Specializes in Middle Eastern and North
African food. The salad menu is a favourite,
and a great range of lush smoothies
and juices are on offer.
Blanchy's Tash
93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1
www.blanchystash.com
A high-end bar and restaurant with
outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London
Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike
snacks that fuse Japanese and South
American influences. Expect great things
here from international DJs and renowned
mixologists
Black Cat
13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055
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Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant
serving up an excellent selection of Western
and Vietnamese fare and an extensive
range of sandwiches and burgers.
BoatHouse
40 Lily Road, APSC Compound,
36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790
Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded
tables spread across outdoor deck
and small indoor dining room. Serves
remarkably fresh and inspired dishes
made with choice local and imported
ingredients—favourites include the sirloin
burger and pan-fried fish and chips.
Boomarang
Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton
Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790
Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded
tables spread across outdoor deck
and small indoor dining room. Serves
remarkably fresh and inspired dishes
made with choice local and imported
ingredients—favourites include the sirloin
burger and pan-fried fish and chips.
Cafe Saigon
Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon
253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234
www.moevenpick-saigon.com
An international buffet with unique food
concepts that is perfect for gathering
family and friends.
Cham Charm
3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung
Tel: 5410 9999
The highlight of this upscale, beautifully
decorated Asian restaurant is a special
seafood buffet that includes Portuguese
oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi,
sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine
prawns, American Angus beef
and much more. Errazuriz wines are also
included in the buffet. Part of the Khai
Silk chain.
El Gaucho
5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879
Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton
Dat Tien, PMH, D7
A classic Argentine steakhouse where
beef is the main attraction. There is still
plenty of other options on the menu, in
addition to an extensive wine list. Open
from 4pm until late every day.
The Deck
38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632
Serves upmarket takes on regional
specialties made with fresh local and
imported products. Well-designed,
minimalist dining space and bar on the
river are a serious draw.
The Elbow Room
52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327
elbowroom52@yahoo.com
American-style bistro offering a wide
range of appetisers, soups, salads,
sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus
an extensive wine menu. Open daily
7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served
all day.
Gartenstadt
34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623
Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue
in town to offer German food with
specialities such as pork knuckle and
authentic German sausages prepared
fresh each day. Also offers imported
German draught beer.
Good Eats
NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai
Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672
Easteran and Western dishes are low in
saturated fat and made from all-natural
ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs
and spices accompany meals. Even the
French fries are healthy.
Halal@Saigon
31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823
www.halalsaigon.com
Serving up a range of Vietnamese and
Malaysian dishes prepared according to
halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho
and roti chennai and seafood favourites
such as shrimp, squid and mussels.
Hog's Breath
02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006
The popular Australian eatery's first
foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on
the ground floor of the Bitexc Financial
tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks
are the centrpiece of the menu which
also includes burgers, seafood and bar
snacks.
Jaspa’s
33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926
www.alfrescosgroup.com
Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant
specializes in Australian-influenced
international fusion cuisine. Full range
of drinks including Australian and
French wines and good cocktails.
Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking
event.
Kita Coffee House
39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300
Four-level restaurant serving a wide
menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches,
soups and appetizers for lunch
and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee
and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright
ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old
World second floor bar and rooftop dining.
Set dinner everyday from 5pm.
Koto
151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151
This is the Saigon arm of the renowned
organisation that began in Hanoi a decade
ago. Vietnamese food is prepared
with innovative twist by young people
Koto are helping get a start in the
hospitality industry and on a path for a
better life.
Market 39
InterContinental Asiana Saigon
Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and
Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099
dine@icasianasaigon.com
Seven interactive live kitchens offering
French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian
cuisines, including a bakery, French
patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads,
grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items,
noodles and pasta dishes.
Mekong Merchant
23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713
Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle
brasserie has brought modern
international cuisine to suburban An Phu.
Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly
specials and seafood flown in from Phu
Quoc.
New York Steakhouse & Winery
25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1
Tel: 3823 7373
New-york@steakhouse.com.vn
www.steakhouse.com.vn
Chic dining venue designed in a classic
New York City Art Deco. Open every day
until late. Specializes in certified U.S.
Black Angus steak, and features a fully
stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to
bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.
Orientica
Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong,
D5 Tel: 3839 7777
www.equatorial.com/hcm
Top-end seafood and grill restaurant
boasting modern decor. Good service
and excellent food presentation make
this a pleasant alternative to the downtown
scene.
Pacharan Tapas and Bodega
97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024
This tapas restaurant and bar serves
up superb Spanish fare crafted from
authentic imported ingredients. The
56 asialife HCMC

exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive
and Sangria is half price during happy
hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day
Wednesday.
The Refinery
74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823
0509
Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside,
informal indoor restaurant section
and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern
European. The menu spans a price
range to suit most budgets.
Reflections
Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square,
D1 Tel: 3823 4999
Contemporary fine dining that combines
Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean
cuisine in an ambiance of understated
elegance and European style. Special
culinary events include guest chefs from
Michelin-star establishments around the
world. Private rooms are available.
Riverside Cafe
Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc
Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033
International venue opening onto the
bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast,
lunch and dinner, and particularly
noted for its sumptuous buffet selection
which combines Asian, Western and
Vietnamese cuisine.
Signature Restaurant
Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong
Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828
Fine dining with panoramic views over
central HCM City. Food is stunningly
presented, top-end European cuisine
with Asian influences cooked by German
chef Andreas Schimanski. A la
carte or five-course set menu available.
Skewers
9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798
www.skewers-restaurant.com
Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where
subtle colours and exposed brickwork
combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh,
falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly
rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip
combos, soups and pastas.
Square One
Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square,
D1 Tel: 3520 2359
Specializing in high-end Western and
Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves
charcoal-grilled meats and seafood,
as well as steamed and wok-cooked
Vietnamese fare.
Warda
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822
Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery
swathed in oranges and reds serving
Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan
chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas
are the main draw, but you can also puff
on hookas post-meal.
Xu Saigon
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824
8468
www.xusaigon.com
Inspired restaurant with an F&B director
with a passion for mixing Vietnamese
cooking with flavours and styles from
around the world. Sleek but sparsely
designed, the restaurant serves nouveau
takes on Vietnamese cuisine.
ITALIAN
Basilico
InterContinental Asiana
Saigon, Ground Floor,
Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung,
D1 Tel: 3520 9099
dine@icasianasaigon.com
Contemporary and casual trattoria-style
restaurant specializing in authentic
Italian dishes and homemade desserts.
Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide
selection of Italian wines.
Casa Italia
86 Le Loi, D1
Tel: 3824 4286
www.casaitalia.com.vn
Serves home-style Italian cooking including
pasta and pizza as well as a selection
of steak and seafoodd dishes. Open
daily 10 am until late.
Good Morning Vietnam
197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894
Popular authentic Italian restaurant with
additional outlets around the country.
Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and
a range of Italian dishes. Good selection
of Italian wines.
La Braceria
11 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Tel: 3824 7446
www.labraceria.com.vn
A Mediterranean-style grill house that
serves imported prime steaks, lamb,
duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta
and pizza. Great selection of old and
new world wines
La Hostaria
17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080
Rustic eatery specializing in top-end
traditional cuisine from various regions
in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND
with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent
pizza.
Opera
Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam
Son Square, D1
Tel: 3824 1234
Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed
brick and glass. The space revolves
around an island kitchen from which
chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.
Internationally trained chefs work with the
freshest and finest ingredients around to
produce some superb dishes.
JAPANESE
Chiisana Hashi
River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, D2
Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252
Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including
sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki
and shabu shabu.
Kissho
14 Nguyen Hue, D1
Tel: 3823 2223
Fax: 3823 3343
kissho.wmcvietnam.com
Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant
boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a
cutting edge interior. Specialties include
teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi
crafted by expert chefs. The freshest
imported meats and seafood round out
the menu, accompanied by an extensive
selection of fine wines and Japanese
spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30
pm to 10 pm.
Iki
Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon
253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127
www.moevenpick-saigon.com
A Japanese restaurant that turns the
notion of the common hotel sushi eatery
on its head thanks to an affordable menu
and a fun atmosphere.
Nishimura
Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen
Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222
Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi
from a globetrotting chef with three
decades’ experience. A wide range of
cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions
are also available.
The Sushi Bar
2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042
3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618
This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant
serves over 40 varieties of sushi at rea-
1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong St., District 1, HCMC, Vietnam
Tel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164
Fax: (84) 3822 6116
Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn
Website: www.shangpalace.com.vn
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imbibe
street gourmet
Wine-Food Pairings, Asian Edition
By Darryl Bethea
I got schooled in the magic of
pairing a dish with the perfect
wine in Northern California.
Typically we would consider
the protein, sauces, and dominant
flavours, then find the
appropriate wine that would
compliment and elevate the
experience.
But in Vietnamese or any
Asian dining, the ordering
of meals is not usually an
individual choice. It is more like
a little of this and that for all to
share, and the flavours can run
all over the map. Soy sauce
(with or without chilli), wasabi,
fish sauce, and sweet and
sour sauce all have their own
flavour profiles. And at one
meal sitting, you can experience
them all.
To describe wine on the palate,
we talk about the 'mouth
feel', the physical sensation
a food or drink creates. Tofu,
sushi, steamed shellfish, curry,
and fried foods all have the
their own 'mouth feel'. Get the
pairing wrong (too fatty, oily, or
dry), and the dining experience
becomes flawed. So what can
we do?
Stay away from wines with
high tannins, whose bitterness
and dryness in the mouth may
dominate and interfere with
seafood. Also, if a red wine is
high in alcohol, it will intensify
the spiciness and result in a
fire in your mouth, destroying
your taste buds.
As a simple guide, seek
wines with excellent acidity,
wines that will have a refreshing,
palate-cleansing quality
that either compliments or
stands up to the bold flavours.
Keep in mind, a lot of
traditional Asian beverages are
not consumed to compliment
the food. Many times, green
tea comes at the end of the
meal to aid digestion. When it
comes to wine, consider the
following:
Sparkling wine like Champagne
or Brut Prosecco. It
will not overpower the food, is
low in alcohol, and has great
acidity. Just stay away from
anything with an oaky flavour
profile. Dim sum and sparkling
wine is divine!
Off-dry Riesling. The crisp
acidity combined with the
slightly sweet impression at
first taste will combat the
spiciness of chilli. The key here
is off-dry, from Germany or
Washington state.
Pinot Noir with a medium
body, and a light, fruity aroma
and taste. Be careful not to get
a high-alcohol, tannic variety
from the New World. Look
for one that has a description
of good acidity, with round,
smooth tannins.
Darryl Bethea is Group Sales
Manager for Fine Wines of the
World (09 3378 5005) and is
a certified sommelier from the
Court of the Master Sommeliers.
Contact Darryl at 09
3378 5005 or email Darryl@
finewinesasia.com.
Banh bo dua
At first glance, it's easy
to mistake banh bo dua
for a tart, mini quiche or
even a knish. But take a
bite and you'll know you're
eating classic street food.
The outside is made from
two thin pieces of baked
wheat flour that fit over
each other, and the filling
is a mixture of shredded
sonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in
private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30
pm, delivery available on request.
Zen
20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782
Located amid the sea of Japanese
restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen
offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.
The yakitori station grills up fantastic
steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled
udon noodles are also a standout.
KOREAN
25 Si
8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1
Tel: 3824 6921
Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.
Winter and summer scene murals fill the
walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu
with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli
paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well
as super spicy duruchigi.
Hana
8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588
Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart
of District 1. Contemporary decor with
a private, yet open feel. Broad menu
including cooked and raw fish and
traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and
vegetables.
Kim Bab Chun Gook
R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung
Tel: 6296 9057
Korean boonshik/snack food eatery
serving up a wide variety of light but
substantial foods including dumplings,
rameyon and fish cakes.
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Baan Thai
55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453
If you have been missing the delights of
Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant
coconut, lentils and sugar.
To eat this chewy, sweet
treat simply slice it up
and serve or remove the
baked wheat covering to
enjoy the coconut mixture
directly. Banh bo dua is
served warm and can be
found around town all
day. A serving costs VND
5,000.
and bar should be for you. The Thai
chefs whip up all the traditional dishes
you know and love, while in the bar there
are a host of drinks and activities to help
while away an evening.
Lac Thai
71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506
An elegant restaurant tucked in an
alleyway and decorated with art-deco
furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared
by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less
spicy than you’d find in Thailand.
Little Manila
S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7
Tel: 5410 0812
Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor
and indoor seating located on a quiet
street. Serves a range of dishes from the
Philippines (pictured on menu for those
unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.
Thai Express
8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338
www.thaiexpress.vn
Modern restaurant with a massive menu
of Thai specialties served in moderate
proportions. The menu inludes chef’s
recommendations and background on
Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will
test your tongue’s threshold.
VEGETARIAN
Hoa Dang
38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1
Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet
street that serves up nutritious dishes,
including meatless versions of bun bo,
pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving
non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other
sweets.
Saigon Vegan
378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473
Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive
menu of healthy food at moderate prices.
58 asialife HCMC

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/
beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also
has a kids menu.
Viet Chay
339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3
Tel: 3526 5862
Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes
in fake meat dishes. The attractive
dining room is suffused with natural
light. Located within the walls of Vinh
Nghiem Pagoda.
VIETNAMESE
Banian Tree
River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, D2
Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252
A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that
serves authentic cuisine.
Offers a set lunch, set dinner, International
breakfast is served from 6.30 am
- 10.30 am.
Blue Crab
49D Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, D2
Tel: 3744 2008
This seafood restaurant has some of the
most well-prepared and cheapest seafood
in town. Its menu offers everything
from prawns, scallops and lobster to
pork ribs and crab, all for rock-bottom
prices.
Cha Ca Viet Nam
River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, D2
Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252
Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric
grilled fish with noodles and dill.
Com Nieu
19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288
The house specialty, com nieu (smashed
rice), comes with a shattered-crockery
and flying-rice show at this well-known
restaurant, prominently featured in
Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour.
An extensive and tasty selection of
southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out
the menu.
Mandarine Restaurant
11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783
Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy
of two sumptuously decorated colonial
villas, an antique wooden stair and a
menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.
Traditional music performances are available
for dinner.
Nam Phan
34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636
Well known at its previous corner location
on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues
to serve modern Asian cuisine including
asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed
bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck
breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored
colonial villa, the interior is alive with
reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs
and is inspired by Euro-Zen.
Quan Bui
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1 Tel: 3602
2241
Well executed and delicious Vietnamese
food at almost criminally affordable
prices. Tucked away at the top end of
District one, this place is worth seeking
out for five-star food in a casual setting
that will certainly not strain the budget.
Temple Club
29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1
Tel: 3829 9244
This high-end restaurant attached to an
elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its
art deco atmosphere as much as for its
food. Mains go from around VND80,000
to VND150,000.
Wrap & Roll
62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030
SA1–1, My Khanh 1,
Nguyen Van Linh, D7
Attractive downtown venue that brings
street-style food into air-conditioned
and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped
appetisers such as the cha gio
(spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with
ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on
sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork.
Cloud 9
2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC
(Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout &
Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544
Recently opened with beautiful déco, this
rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views
at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and
desserts. Open 6pm till late.
The Library
InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner
of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3520 9099
dine@icasianasaigon.com
Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of
tea. The Library provides a welcoming
atmosphere for those in search of calm,
comfort and personalized service.
M52 Bar
52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726
Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably
priced drinks noted for packing a
punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are
never too busy to check on their patrons,
and the busy bartenders are quick with
a smile.
Park Lounge
Park Hyatt Hotel
2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234
Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs
played every night by international musicians.
The salubrious surroundings are
matched by the range of the drinks, with
vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per
glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.
Purple Jade
InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner
of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3520 9099
Chic lounge blends the stylistic
influences of contemporary design and
opium dens. Hosts live music and serves
special drinks, including Shaoxing and
Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection
of luxury spirits.
Hoa Tuc
74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676
This comfortable high-end restaurant
serves traditional Vietnamese fare with
a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to
find your local favourites as you’ve never
experienced them before. Beautifully
plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at
its best.
nightlife
BARS & LOUNGES
See bar restaurant listings for more
popular watering holes.
Lang Nuong Nam Bo
285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10
Tel: 3862 2569
Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded
among locals serves everything from
beef, chicken and fish to porcupine,
weasel and field mouse. Great destination
for intrepid gastronomes. Has
standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes
too.
Bar's bar
47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1
Tel: 3822 3352
Small luxurious upstairs bar adjacent to
Ben Thanh Market, offers a welcome
retreat from the bustle of the city centre.
Customers are served with relaxing
music and a wide selection of cocktails,
whiskies and Japanese Sake. Open
nightly 6-late.
LOUISIANE
BREWHOUSE
Beachside Nha Trang
Asian & Western Cuisine
Swimming Pool & Private Beach
www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn
asialife HCMC 59

Saigon Saigon Bar
9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999
Popular bar usually packed out with
tourists and business travellers searching
for some delicious cocktails and a
great view of the city skyline. Cuban
band Warapo plays every night except
Monday from 8.30 pm until late.
Voodoo Lounge
92 Ho Tung Mau, D1
Voodoo paintings adorn the white
walls at this small, attractive bar south
of Sunwah Tower. A daily happy hour,
plenty of stool space and a pair of
dartboards make it a good place to
grab a drink.
BREWHOUSES
Alderbrau
98 Nguyen Du, D1
Small brewhouse decorated with
antique brewing miscellanea, with an
enclosed garden for outdoor swilling
the small range of house brews and
bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up
sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese
dishes.
Gammer Czech Beer
107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619
www.biatuoitiepvn.com
Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall
furnished with heavy wood and outfitted
with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to
sports. Dark and blonde beers are
available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese
food from mussels to rabbit.
Hoa Vien
28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1
Tel: 3829 0585
www.hoavien.vn
Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner
beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast
from the Czech Republic. There’s also
a large food menu and imported Pilsner
Urquell.
Lion Brewery
11C Lam Son Square, D1
Tel: 3823 8514
Microbrewery featuring traditional German
brew technology and German fare
like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot
to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal
and a whole lot of beer.
NIGHTCLUBS
Fuse Bar
3A Ton Duc Thang, D1
A popular bar that plays primarily
hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse
hosts a ladies night where women drink
for free.
Lush
2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496
A large and lavishly decorated bar and
club popular on weekends. Good DJs
playing the latest in beat-based music
and the city’s beautiful people add to
the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with
Western clubs in both ambience and
drinks prices.
at home
BAKERIES
Harvest Baking
30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577
harvestbaking@yahoo.com
This authentic bakery offers a range
of specialty baked goods for delivery.
Offering bagels, scones, breads,
desserts,cakes, tarts and more.
Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon
rolls with cream cheese icing highly
recommended.
Pat A Chou
65 Hai Ba Trung, D1
25 Thao Dien, D2
The home of the long and crusty
baguette. Supplies many restaurants
but also sells wholesale. The miniature
patisseries such as crème brulée and
cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens
at 6.30 am.
Schneider’s Finest
27 Han Thuyen, D1
Tel: 3829 1998
www.schneiders-finest.com
Traditional German bakery bakes 45
different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes
and a wide range of danishes,
pastries and cakes. Catering available.
Tous Les Jours
180 Hai Ba Trung, D3
Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous
Le Jours stocks a superb range of
freshly baked good from sugary treats
like pain au chocolat to superior quality
baguettes and loafs.
Voelker
17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Tel: 7303 8799
39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2
Tel: 6296 0066
Small bakery turns out sweet and
salted pies and mousses in addition
to baguettes and a range of Western
sweets.
CATERING
Saigon Catering
41A Vo Truong Toan, D2
Tel: 3898 9286
Provide services of catering, banquets,
event planning, BBQ’s. For a custommade
quotation e-mail SaigonGG@
gmail.com or call Huong on 0913
981128.
Xu Catering
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1
Tel: 3824 8468
www.xusaigon.com
From the brains behind Xu Restaurant
and Lounge comes this new catering
service, promising the highest standards
in service. Everything from the
menu to the comprehensive bar service
and the staff is tailor-made to your
specifications.
COOKERY CLASSES
Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes
Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square,
D1 Tel: 3823 4999
Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for
groups of up to 20 people. The classes
include a visit to the market with the
sous chef.
Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc
The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1
Tel: 3825 8485
contact@saigoncookingclass.com
Cooking classes available from Tuesday
to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm.
Students make an entire meal that
includes traditional dishes like pho and
cha gio, as well as more creative fare.
Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English,
Japanese or French on request.
DELIVERY
KITCHEN
Tel: 0974 444 001
kitchen.net.vn
Visit the website and start an account
to begin ordering fresh, homemade
meals to your home. Options include
beef lasagne, big chicken and mushroom
pies and pork dijon as well as
a variety of sausages and vegetarian
dishes. Must order a minimum of three
dishes at a time.
Pizza Hut Delivery (PHD)
Tel: 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
Serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings
and much more. PHD guarantees 30-
minute delivery or a free pizza at your
next order (you must live within 2 km
from a PHD store).
www.vietnammm.com
A free website that allows users to order
delivery from dozens of restaurants
in Ho Chi Minh City.
Simply provide your address and phone
number and pay the delivery driver in
cash when he arrives
Willy Woo’s
www.vietnammm.com
Southern American fare including skillet
fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ
foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno
corn bread, and other classic southern
sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com
GROCERIES
Annam Gourmet Market
16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822
9332
41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630
SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc
Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64
www.annam-gourmet.com
Boutique grocer with wide selection of
foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea
and spices; and household products.
Wine and premium beer, full deli counter,
produce, dairy-frozen and baked
goods on second floor.
Classic Fine Foods
17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105
www.classicfinefoods.com
Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale,
but also takes orders for its range
of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and
seafood from private clients.
Kim Hai Butchery
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1
Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376
Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb,
veal and other meats sold at reasonable
prices.
Metro
An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677
www.metro.com.vn
Warehouse wholesaler located just off
the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the
Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells
bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables
and meat, as well as paper products,
cleaning supplies, housewares--basically
everything.
Organik
11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841
www.organikvn.com
Online grocer based out of Dalat selling
a range of organic vegetables and groceries,
as well as imported all-natural
products such as cereal, soymilk and
tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu.
Veggy’s
29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526
Sky Garden
Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7
Riverside Apartments
53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2
Popular expat market with a huge
walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh
fruit and vegetables, dairy products and
a range of meats. Imported canned and
dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks,
spirits and snacks also available.
LIQUOR & WINE
The Warehouse
178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826
www.warehouse-asia.com
One of the city’s premier wine distributors,
The Warehouse is an aptly named,
stylish wine store that stocks a full
range of both New and Old World
wines, sparkling wines, Champagne,
spirits, imported beers and accessories.
60 asialife HCMC

Cambodia Thailand Vietnam
Crossing borders
www.asialife.asia
http://www.facebook.com/asialifemedia
enquiries: info@asialife.asia

master of mixology
By Matt Myers
I have always wanted to work
in Southeast Asia, in part because
of the fresh ingredients
used in local cuisine. Before
I finally made the move to
Vietnam, where I work at the
MGM Grand Ho Tram, I was
the master mixologist and
assistant director of beverage
at Bellagio Las Vegas. What
qualifies someone to have
such an auspicious title with
the term ‘master’ in it? My
title was actually only given
to me as a way to describe
my duties. A chef is a leader
of cooks and creates dishes;
similarly a master mixologist
is a leader of bartenders and
creates cocktails.
I will use this experience
in mixology to provide readers
with useful recipes and
techniques that are used in
the hospitality industry. This
column is for the mixologyminded,
those in the hospitality,
food and beverage
industry, and for anyone who
likes a good drink.
As mentioned, the fresh
ingredients found in most
Southeast Asian countries
are an inspiration. The one
ingredient here I just can’t get
enough of is fresh herb. The
use of fresh herbs in a cocktail
(other than mint) seems to
be lost, or at least not that
popular. There are countless
ways fresh herbs can be used
in drinks, and a basil gimlet is
one example. The basil gimlet
is a basic California staple
and a fresh and easy cocktail
that allows for creativity.
What you need:
1 ½ oz gin or vodka
1 oz rock candy or simple
syrup
¾ oz fresh lime juice
4 basil leaves
Now it’s time to make it:
1. Make sure you have everything
ready for the recipe
(martini glasses polished
and chilled, etc).
2. Combine the simple syrup
and basil and muddle
gently (Three light crushes.
Don’t ring it up, you are not
making pesto.)
3. Add fresh lime juice, gin
and ice. Make sure the ice
doesn’t smell, you don’t
want this cocktail to smell
and taste like durian.
4. Shake. Make sure you are
smiling and looking at your
guests. No limp-wristed
shaking.
5. Strain with a fine mesh
strainer (double strain).
6. Pick a leaf of basil, rub it
around the rim of the glass
and throw it away.
7. Pick another leaf, float it on
top and serve.
Once you get the technique
down, play with it. Try different
herbs to create your own
cocktail, and Impress your
guests or friends with your
creation. Cheers!
Matt Myers is the director of
beverage for MGM Grand Ho
Tram.
62 asialife HCMC

listings
culture
CLASSES
AngelsBrush by Vin
Tel: 0983377710
Shyevin@mac.com
Oil painting course gives learners the
opportunity to work from the different
objects; explore different mediums,
materials and techniques; and interpret
line, tone and colour. Instructor works
with students on individual basis.
Helen Kling Oil Painting
189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien,
D2 Tel: 0903 955 780
hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@
yahoo.com
www.helenkling.com
Helene is a French painter who teaches
beginners (children and adults) various
techniques and the art of working with
different mediums. She is also a fantastic
tool for advanced artists who are looking
to increase their creativity. Both day and
night courses are available. Helene has a
permanent exhibition at FLOW, located
88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.
Printmaking
alphagallery@bluemail.ch
Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught
by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber,
who offers the chance to learn monotype,
intaglio and etching techniques.
CINEMAS
Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge
45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220
86 Pham Ngoc Thach
info@bobbybrewers.com
Popular top-floor home cinema showing
movies five times a day on a large
screen. Email for the latest schedule.
Cinebox
212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610
240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425
Cinebox cinemas show both original
language films with Vietnamese subtitles
and the dubbed versions.
Future Shorts
futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com
www.futureshorts.com/vn
Vietnam branch of the international network
screens foreign and local short films
around town. Events often incorporate
other media and elements, including live
music, performances, installations and
discussion. Submissions accepted.
Galaxy Cinema
116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533
230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688
www.galaxycine.vn
Large, modern cinema that shows the
latest foreign releases in English (with
Vietnamese subtitles).
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451
French cultural centre and cinema
theatre. Showcases French movies with
English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also
hosts movies and documentaries from a
number of overseas film festivals.
Lotte Cinema
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3822 7897
LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7
Tel: 3775 2520
www.lottecinemavn.com
Modern cinema with four-way sound system.
D7 location houses luxury theatre
Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.
me phim
HCM City-based film initiative that
provides support to local filmmakers and
hosts regular film screenings/discussions.
Email dduukk@gmail.com for information
or join the Facebook group.
Megastar
Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong,
D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388
CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: 6297 1981
www.megastarmedia.net
State-of-the-art cinema complex screening
the lastest blockbusters with plush,
reclining seats. All movies shown in original
language with Vietnamese subtitles.
GALLERIES
a little blah blah
OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex
6 Thai Van Lung, D1
albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com
Operates as an engine for contemporary
art by organizing projects, exhibitions,
screenings and talks. Runs one major
art project each year and a reading room
with more than 1,000 texts on art, design
and creative culture. Free for everyone
and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.
Blue Space Contemporary
Arts Center
97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1
Tel: 3821 3695
bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn
www.bluespacegallery.com
Busy, working gallery with easels
propped up outside situated in the
grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts
Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by
local artists.
Duc Minh Gallery
31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498
Housed in an opulent colonial mansion,
private museum and art gallery showcases
the private art collection of Vietnamese
business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi.
Containing more than 1,000 pieces that
range from traditional to contemporary.
Galerie Quynh
65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019
www.galeriequynh.com
The city’s only international standard
gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor
space. Organizes regular exhibitions
featuring established, emerging local/
international contemporary artists, publishes
original catalogs in both English
and Vietnamese.
Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum
97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441
btmthcm@hotmail.com
Institution housing contemporary/traditional
works by Vietnamese and foreign
artists. Pieces date from as early as
the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese
antiques, art crafted by the Cham and
Funan peoples.
San Art Independent Artist Space
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898
hoa@san-art.org
www.san-art.org
Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space
featuring contemporary work by young
Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest
lecturers and curators. A reading room
of art books and magazines is open to
the public.
TuDo Gallery
53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966
www.tudogallery.com
Hosting permanent exhibitions of works
by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils,
silk paintings and lacquerware. More
than 1,000 pieces on show.
asialife HCMC 63

listings
sports &
leisure
Sport Street
Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between
Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai
Services include mending and restringing
broken tennis rackets. Products range
from badminton birdies and rackets to
basketball hoops, free weights, roller
blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all
manner of balls.
Trophies & Custom Signage Street
Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and
Nguyen Thai Hoc
Offers custom engraving on trophies and
plaques made of plastic, wood, metal
and glass.
CRICKET
Saigon Cricket Assocation
Social cricket league plays 25 overs
a side matches Sunday mornings at
RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November
through May, with friendly games
throughout the pre-season. Practice on
Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.
Australian Cricket Club
Terry Gordon
terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au
saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.
com
www.saigoncricket.com
English Cricket Club
Richard Carrington
Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com
info@eccsaigon.com
www.eccsaigon.com
Indian Cricket Club
Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com
United Cricket Club
Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net
keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn
DANCING
DanCenter
53 Nguyen Dang
Giai, Thao Dien,
District 2
Tel: 3840 6974
www.dancentervn.com
Purpose built studio with foreign trained
dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet,
tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula,
capoiera and more. Kids can start from
4+ and adults of all ages and levels are
welcome. Schedule and news on events
available on-line.
Salsa Dancing at La Habana
6 Cao Ba Quat, D1
www.salsaigon.com
salsaigon@gmail.com
Six-week salsa package at 350,000
VND for single persons and 550,000 for
a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every
Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30
pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).
Registration required.
FITNESS & YOGA
AIS Sports Centre
36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2
Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126
sportscentre@aisvietnam.com
www.aissportscentre.com
Features six-lane, 25-metre pool,
basketball and netball courts, astroturf
hockey/football area and outdoor gym
equipment. Available for party hire, with
BBQ included on request. Membership
packages available. Kids swim club and
adult masters programmes. Rainbow
Divers offers scuba diving courses for
children and adults. Free morning yoga.
California WOW Xperience
Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5
28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999
The world’s biggest fitness centre chain
is one of Saigon’s most modern places
to get your sweat on. Located in Hung
Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout
area and all kinds of classes including
spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.
Caravelle Club Spa
19 Lam Son Square, D1
Tel: 3823 4999
Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular
machines and free weights.
The swimming pool is a great place for
a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna,
steam room and jacuzzi are there for
winding down.
Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre
Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong,
D5 Tel: 3839 7777
Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern
cardio and weights machines, sauna,
steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor
pool great for swimming laps.
Suzanne & Saigon Yoga
Tel: 090 835 2265
suzanne@saigonyoga.com
Suzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced)
Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two
decades of experience, offering various
yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats
in Vietnam.
FOOTBALL & RUGBY
Australian Rules Football
Tel: 093 768 3230
www.vietnamswans.com
vietnamswans@gmail.com
The Vietnam Swans play regular
international footy matches around Asia.
Training sessions are held weekly in HCM
City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and
Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International
School, Ciputra). All skill levels and
codes welcome.
Les Gaulois de Saigon
www.gauloisdesaigon.com
info@gauloisdesaigon.com
A new team of French footballers, the
side invites players and their families to
come and join in their friendly training
sessions, where everyone can get together
and enjoy the sport while making
new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919
691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.
RMIT Vietnam
sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn
A new player on the SIFL scene with
a team made up of students from the
University. They have their own football
ground on-site consisting of two brand
new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.
Saigon Raiders
jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com
Sociable football side who are always on
the lookout for new talent for their weekly
matches and training sessions. The team
participates in the Saigon International
Football League and also has regular
fixtures against local teams in the outlying
provinces and also participates in
international tournaments.
Saigon Rugby Club
Tel: 0903 735 799
www.saigonrfc.org
saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com
Social, mixed touch rugby played
every Saturday afternoon for adults at
RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly
welcomes visiting teams and tours the
region for men’s contact and women’s
touch rugby tournaments. Beginners
welcome.
counsel corner
True Beauty, Part Two
By Briar Jacques
For a woman who grew up
in a culture that allows media
misrepresentation of beauty,
what happens when she
moves to a county where
women are naturally petite and
very pretty? Where women
seem to age a lot slower, often
still looking girlish well into their
30s?
In many cases, a western
woman may feel large, all of
a sudden. She may feel even
more pressure to change and
‘improve’. Increased insecurity
about both her attractiveness
and her ability to stay attractive
to her partner can become a
big problem. Eating disorders,
smoking, exercise addiction
and abuse of diet pills often
result from such intense pressure
and lack of emotional
equilibrium. For many expat
women, this is another factor
that can make living in Vietnam
a challenging experience.
Of course, Asian women
are just as affected by the
unrealistic standards of beauty
all around them. The cosmetic
surgery industry is growing
in Vietnam as it follows the
trend in the rest of Asia.
Vietnamese women may be
more petite than their western
counterparts but the pressure
to have the right look, skin
tone and shape is still there.
Korean movie stars are often
held up as the ideal standard
of beauty and an industry of
cosmetic surgery to specifically
copy certain actresses
has emerged.
If only we could relax and
accept the things about us
that are beautiful! We should
spend time working on our
positive self-regard instead of
just our abs. If we now look at
photos of ourselves at age 20,
we will probably only really see
the good stuff. Yet when we
were 20, chances are we were
locked into self-criticism. The
same will happen when we are
60, looking back at photos of
ourselves now. We will think
we are young and cute. Why
can’t we feel that now —
focus on what we have rather
than what we don’t?
There is nothing unhealthy
about striving to be physically
fit and healthy and look good.
However, just as much attention
needs to go to developing
our appreciation for what
we have and integrating the
knowledge that we have been
manipulated by the media
into judging ourselves harshly.
Imagine if all the energy that
goes into trying to achieve
slimness or physical beauty
went into working to develop
true beauty — kindness, compassion,
wisdom, humour. It
is possible to improve these
qualities constantly if we
choose to direct our time and
energy in their direction. And
these qualities actually exist!
They are attainable and they
endure. The same can’t be
said for the images of physical
beauty we have been force
fed.
Briar Jacques is a trained Australian
counsellor who deals
with issues like expat adjustment,
depression, anxiety and
drug abuse. Call 0 12 14 80
87 92.
64 asialife HCMC

Saigon Saints
chris@saigonsaints.com
www.saigonsaints.com
Expat football club of all ages, which
has been running since 1995 and plays
in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international
tours especially to Bangkok
and Manila and play in other local and
international tournaments. The players
train weekly, and new players are
encouraged to join.
GOLF
Dalat Palace Golf Club
Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat
Tel: 063 3821 101
dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com
The most beautiful course in Vietnam,
combining the crisp mountain air with
an environment of stately pine trees.
Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the
7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge
for golfers of all levels.
Dong Nai Golf Resort
Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom
Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590
www.dongnaigolf.com.vn
Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus
a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi
and billiards. The resort sits on 160
hectares of land in Dong Nai Province,
about 50 kilometres from the city.
Membership starts at USD $2,000 a
year.
Ocean Dunes Golf Club
1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet
Tel: 062 3821 995
odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com
Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard
par-72 course winds through seaside
dunes, with the variable coastal breezes
changing its character each day.
An enjoyable and eminently playable
course and has become a favourite
venue for expatriate tournaments.
Saigon South Golf
Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7
Tel: 5411 2001
sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn
Nine-hole mini golf course and driving
range set amongst attractive gardens just
behind FV Hospital. Membership starts
from USD $700 for 6 months. Visitors’
greens fees for a round of golf are around
USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club,
shoe and umbrella hire is also available.
SaigonSports Academy League
Tel: 093 215 3502
greg@saigonsportsacademy.com
www.saigonsportsacademy.com
12-week, 5 a side community football
league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and
U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan
Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and
expat teams compete in adult division with
cash prize for champions.
Song Be Golf Resort
77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An
Tel: 0650 3756 660
info@songbegolf.com
www.songbegolf.com
Located 22 kilometres from the city
centre, the premier golf course in the area
features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.
Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool,
and a gymnasium.
Vietnam Golf and Country Club
Long Thanh My Village, D9
www.vietnamgolfcc.com
This facility consists of two courses of 18
holes each, one of which is designed in a
more traditional Asian style, and the other
in international style. Has other attractions
such as boating, tennis and a restaurant
area.
LEISURE
Hash House Harriers
www.saigonh3.com
Running club that meets every Sunday
at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on
a run in different locations out of town
with their traditional balance of exercise
and beer.
Phun Runner
info@phun-run.com
Social running group that meets Saturdays
at 7 am for a scenic run around
Saigon before breakfast. Great way to
explore the city, meet fellow runners and
get fit for future events. Check website
for rendezvous points.
Rangers Baseball Club
Isao Shimokawaji
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
A baseball club always looking for
additional players of any age, race or
experience level. Plays Saturdays or
Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese
teams.
Saigon International Dart League
www.thesidl.com
A highly popular group in town, the darts
club runs a competitive year-long league
for 16 pub-based teams. There are
some excellent players in this sociable
and international group. See website
for details of how to join and latest 180
scores.
Saigon International Softball League
sisl@saigonsoftball.info
www.saigonsoftball.info
The league plays slo-pitch softball every
Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School
in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes
newcomers.
Saigon Pony Club
Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2
Tel: 0913 733 360
A standout facility offering pony rides,
riding lessons, horse clinics and pony
rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.
Squash
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1
Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176
www.thelandmarkvietnam.com
One of three squash courts in town.
Membership is open to non-Landmark
residents and drop-in players. Lessons
and racquets are available for
additional fees. Balls are provided.
Book in advance or phone for further
information.
Ultimate Frisbee
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7
www.saigon-ultimate.com
Join in this exciting popular sport every
Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in
Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions
also organised for the more
experienced. Contact David Jensen at
0909458890
Vietnam Hobby Brewers
hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com
www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl
Small group of beer enthusiasts gather
bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk
beer, share brewing tips and sample
homemade suds. The group is keen on
taking on new members with an interest
in learning how to brew.
X-Rock Climbing
Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre
75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3
Tel: 6278 5794
503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2
Tel: 2210 9192
www.xrockclimbing.com
Offering safe and professional climbing
for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring
mountain climbing routes rated from
beginner to advanced, climbing and
belay-safety courses and training,
birthday parties, corporate team building.
Excellent facilities for children and
annual membership for kids.
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listings
health &
beauty
ners. Au fait with the latest treatments and
techniques, the surgery prides themselves
on their high standard of equipment &
sterilization.
Tu Xuong Dental Clinic
51A Tu Xuong, D3
Tel: 3932 2049/050
drhung01@yahoo.com
www.nhakhoatuxuong.com
Provides general and cosmetic dental
services at reasonable prices. Specialises
in implants, orthodontic treatments and
making crowns and bridges. Staff are
professional and speak English.
Westcoast International Dental Clinic
27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1
Tel: 3825 6999
71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777
info@westcoastinternational.com
www.westcoastinternational.com
Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by
French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese
speaking dental professionals.
SOS
ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE
American Chiropractic Clinic
8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667
www.vietnamchiropractic.com
A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot
care clinic staffed by American-trained
chiropractors speaking French, English,
Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats
back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also
specializing in sports injuries, manufacture
of medical grade foot orthotics.
Institute of Traditional Medicine
273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this wellestablished
traditional hospital & training
centre. He speaks good English and
provides excellent treatments in a clean
environment
Theta Healing
– Jodie Eastwood
Tel: 091 859 1933
www.thetahealing.com
A unique energy healing technique for
mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified
practitioner based in HCM City.
COSMETIC TREATMENT
Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic
135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5
Tel: 3923 4419
A modern clinic offering a comprehensive
range of optical services. Specializes in
LASIK correctional procedures. English
spoken. Open seven days a week.
FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery
45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7
Tel: 5411 3366
www.fvhospital.com
International-standard cosmetic procedures
from simple dermabrasion and
chemical peels to collagen injections,
nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and
breast enhancement. Procedures carried
out by French and Vietnamese doctors
using the latest equipment.
Parkway Shenton International Clinic
Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1
Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare
giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics
clinic offers a range of both surgical
and non-surgical treatments including
dental reconstruction.
DENTAL
European Dental Clinic
17 - 17A Le Van Mien,
Thao Dien, D2
Tel: 0918 749 204/08
3744 9744
Expat English and French-speaking
dentist. Performs full range of dental
treatment including whitening, aesthetic
fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics,
veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24-
hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or
0916 352940.
Starlight Dental Clinic
Dr. Philippe Guettier & International
Team of Dentists
2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1
Tel: 3822 6222
doe.linh@gmail.com
With 14 years’ experience providing
dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese
patients, this well-known dental surgery
is staffed by both foreign & local practitio-
HAIR & SALON
Anthony George for LondonHair &
Beauty
FIDECO Riverview Building
14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475
www.aglondonsalon.com.vn
Top British stylist George brings his unique
flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish
and professional salon is host to a staff
of professionally trained beauty therapists.
Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and
L’Oreal products.
Lloyd Morgan International
Hair Studio
234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2
Tel: 090 8422 007
International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one
of the best in town. He’s been in the
business for over 30 years and brings his
expertise to this established, top-notch
salon.
Qi Spa
151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: 3844 1719
Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150
Mövenpick Hotel Saigon,
Tel: 3997 5437
High-end salon and spa offers the
standard range of services in a calming atmosphere
with good service. Waxing, nail
services, hair dressing as well as luxurious
facial and massage treatments on offer.
Souche
2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre
37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372
A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica
line of skincare products. Specialises
in personalized facial care treatments
and medicated acne treatments. Waxing
and other aesthetic services are also
available in a pleasant atmosphere with
excellent service.
Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio
Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
D7 Tel: 5416 0378
Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s
Singapore-based hair salon has a variety
of hair services including scalp treatments,
rebonding and hair extensions.
The Salon
21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1
Tel: 3822 9660
65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394
Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists
at this local salon with multiple locations.
MEDICAL
Australian Clinic & Pathology
Diagnostics (ACPD)
273-275 Ly Thai To, D10
Tel: 3834 9941
www.australianclinic.com.vn
Services include general outpatient
healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks,
X-ray, full laboratory and in-house
pharmacy including specialist medical
services covering cardiology, paediatrics,
obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and
dermatology.
Heart Health
By Claire Uebbing
High blood pressure or
hypertension is a common
problem worldwide. The
World Heart Federation
estimates that approximately
970 million people suffer with
the condition. It is also the
leading cause of stroke and a
major contributor to heart and
kidney failure.
The World Health Organisation
considers high blood
pressure to be one of the
most important factors causing
premature death across
the world. Blood pressure is
basically a measure of the
force of blood circulating in
blood vessels and the heart.
When vessels lose their
elasticity, blood pressure
rises. This can cause a problem
as, over time, increased
pressure weakens the heart
muscle and blood vessel
walls. Little tears in the walls
attract blood clots and narrow
the vessels, restricting blood
flow and causing strokes and
heart attacks.
Hypertension is a silent
disease. It doesn’t usually
cause any symptoms but
headaches, blurry vision and
sometimes ringing in the ears
when blood pressure is elevated.
The only way to know
for sure is to have a nurse or
doctor measure it.
Hypertension also can
run in families, so if your
parents or siblings have been
diagnosed it is especially important
that you be checked,
too. Several measurements a
few weeks apart are necessary
to diagnose hypertension
since many other factors, like
pain or anxiety, can influence
blood pressure.
High blood pressure can be
treated first by improving your
diet and lifestyle. If it remains
high, medicines are necessary
to lower the pressure and
prevent excess wear and tear
on blood vessels.
You can work to prevent
hypertension by eating a nutritious
diet with lots of fruits
and vegetables and only small
amounts of salt and fat. This
doesn’t mean you have to eat
bland food, you can still use
spices and herbs.
Exercise for at least 30
minutes every day. If you
can walk at a pace that gets
your heart beating fast, that
is enough. You can also separate
your exercise time into
shorter increments as long as
you meet the total 30 minutes
in a day. Stop smoking and
limit alcohol use. Schedule
a check-up once a year to
have your blood pressure
measured.
Dr Claire Uebbing is a new
full-time American General
Practitioner at the International
SOS Clinic Phnom Penh.
If you have any enquiries
regarding this or any other
medical matter please contact
aine.flanaghan@internationalsos.com
66 asialife HCMC

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center
The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757
care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com
www.care1.com.vn
Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice,
CARE1 is an executive health care centre
offering comprehensive preventative-care
checkups in a modern and professional
setting. State-of-the-art technology provides
fast and accurate diagnoses.
Centre Medical
International (CMI)
1 Han Thuyen, D1
Tel: 3827 2366
www.cmi-vietnam.com
Located downtown next to the cathedral,
the centre provides a high standard of
medical care from qualified French and
Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services
include general and tropical medicine,
cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy,
pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and
traditional Eastern medicine.
Family Medical
Practice HCMC
Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3822 7848
www.vietnammedicalpractice.com
Leading international primary healthcare
provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art
medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual
foreign doctors. Extensive experience
in worldwide medical evacuations
with car and air ambulance on standby.
Also in Hanoi and Danang.
HANH PHUC International
Hospital
Binh Duong boulevard,
Thuan An, Binh Duong.
Tel: 0650 3636068
www.hanhphuchospital.com
The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital
in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a
comprehensive range of quality healthcare
services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology,
Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health
checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer,
Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving
from HCMC.
HANH PHUC International
Hospital Clinic
2nd fl., Saigon Trade Center,
37 Ton Duc Thang, D1. Tel:
3911 1860
www.hanhphuchospital.com
The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital
in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the
center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive
range of services specializing in
Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics,
Immunization, General Practice and
Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am
to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.
International SOS
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
D3 Tel: 3829 8424
www.internationalsos.com
Globally-renowned provider of medical
assistance and international healthcare.
Specializes in offering medical transport
and evacuation both within and outside of
Vietnam for urgent medical cases. Foreign
and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual
staff.
Victoria Healthcare
135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: 3997 4545
79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545
Well-regarded clinic offering general
examinations and specializing in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology and
women's health. Offers a membership
program and cooperates with most insurance
companies in Vietnam and abroad.
Open with doctors on call 24/7.
NAILS
OPI
253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3
International brand of nail care offering
a variety of treatments from standard
manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole
host nail services such as acrylics, powder
gell, cuticle treatments and French
polishing.
SKINCARE
Avon
186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3
Tel: 3930 4018
HCMC branch of the world’s largest
direct seller of cosmetics occupies the
ground floor of District 3 villa, selling
brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft
and Avon Natural.
The Body Shop
87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
Tel: 3823 3683
31 Nguyen Trai, D1
Tel: 3926 0336
www.thebodyshop.com
International cosmetics retailer with
strong commitment to environment
sources natural ingredients from small
communities for its line of more than
600 products.
L’Apothiquaire
100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza
Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7
64A Truong Dinh, D3
07 Han Thuyen, D1
Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082
www.lapothiquaire.com
info@lapothiquaire.com
French-made natural products for all
types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural
Italian skin, body and hair care from
Erbario Toscano.
Marianna Medical Laser
Skincare
149A Truong Dinh, D3
Tel:3526 4635
www.en.marianna.com.vn
Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi
Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent
experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the
modern technologies such as Laser, Botox,
Filler and all solutions can help you
more beautiful and younger day by day
Sian Skincare Laser Clinic
71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999
info@sianclinic.com
www.sianclinic.com
Skincare laser clinic offering the latest
in non-surgical esthetic treatments
including Botox, laser, acne treatments,
hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin
rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.
Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading
esthetic dermatologist from the hospital
of Dermatology of HCMC.
SPAS
Aqua Day Spa
Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1
Tel: 3827 2828
Recently revamped luxury eight-room
spa with a holistic approach to treatment,
using natural Harnn products plus hot
stone therapy and seaweed treatments.
Renaissance Riverside Spa
8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1
Tel: 3822 0033
No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and
aromatherapy massages plus a room
dedicated to foot massages at the atrium
level. Also has sizable steam and sauna
rooms at the club
Xuan Spa
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1
Tel: 3824 1234
Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish
massage and water therapy including
the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to
soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara
with special oil for 45 minutes.
Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation,
calming, and hydrating are also available.
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listings
family
ACTIVITIES
DanCenter
53 Nguyen Dang
Giai, Thao Dien,
D 2
Tel: 3840 6974
www.dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers from age 4+
can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop,
acro dance and break dance classes
at this professionally run, newly built
dance studio. Schedule and news on
events available on-line.
Helene Kling Painting
helene_kling@yahoo.com
Offers classes in oil painting to both
children and adults for 150,000 VND
and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes
are paced to suit each student.
Briar Jacques
bjacques123@gmail.com
Cel: 0122 480 8792
Helping families, individuals, couples,
children and teens. Caring and confidential
counselling to address issues
such as expat adjustment, depression,
anxiety and substance abuse. We
take a holistic approach to enhance
wellbeing on mental, emotional and
physical levels.
Saigon Pony Club
Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2
Tel: 0913 733 360
Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from
three and upwards can ride one of the
stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn
teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000
VND for kids from age six.
Tae Kwondo
BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and
Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong
Toan, D2
phucteacherkd@yahoo.com
Private and group classes are run after
school three times a week by the friendly
Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is
welcome to join in the course, which costs
USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25
fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc
directly on 0903 918 149.
BABY EQUIPMENT
Belli Blossom
4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen
Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7
Tel: 5413 7574
12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1
Tel: 3822 6615
www.belliblossom.com.vn
contactus@belliblossom.com.vn
Belli Blossom catering to moms and
babies with imported brands of maternity
and nursing wear and accessories, infant
clothes, baby bottles and feeding products,
strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers,
diaper bags, and many others. Brands
available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny,
Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.
Maman Bebe
Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Tel: 3825 8724
www.mamanbebe.com.vn
Stocks an assortment of modern strollers
and car seats. Also sells various utensils
and practical baby products. Small selection
of clothing for ages newborn to 14
years.
OUTSTANDING EXAMINATION RESULTS
The British International School is pleased to announce its 2012 examination results. Behind this picture of success for the school lie many
stories of individual achievement and success. Congratulations to our students and teachers.
International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE)
99% compared to the UK average of 70%
63%
International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme
prestigious Ivy League colleges in the United States and Russell Group universities in the United Kingdom.
68 asialife HCMC
Detailed subject reports for IGCSE and IB results together with university destinations can be found on our website www.bisvietnam.com

Me & Be
230 Vo Thi Sau, D3
40 Ton That Tung, D1
141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan
246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3
101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4
287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
The closest thing to Mothercare the city
has to offer. Stocks a substantial range
of apparel for babies including bottles
and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots),
clothing, toys, safety equipment and more,
all at reasonable prices.
Me Oi
1B Ton That Tung, D1
A small shop adjacent to the maternity
hospital bursting at the seams with everything
you need for your baby. Clothing,
footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags
and toys all at reasonable prices.
CLOTHES
Debenhams
Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton,
District 1
A superb range of unique and beautiful
clothing for young children (from newborns
to 12 years old) imported brand
from UK. High to mid-range prices.
DLS Paris
17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1
Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1
A superb range of unique and beautiful
clothing for young children (from newborns
to pre-school age) at high to midrange
prices. The quality compensates for
the price. Bedding, baby equipment and
furniture and organic and natural supplies
also kept in stock.
Ninh Khuong
44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456
www.ninhkhuong.vn
Well-known hand-embroidered children’s
clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn
to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen
years old (boy). Also stocking home
linens. Prices are reasonable.
EDUCATION
ABC International School
2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung,
Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833
abcintschoolss@vnn.vn
www.theabcis.com
UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma
with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by
Cambridge Universit examinations board.
From playgroup to pre-university matriculation.
Served by 80+ British teachers. Good
facilities and extra-curricular activities.
ACG International School
East West Highway, An
Phu, D2
Tel: 3747 1234
www.acgedu.com
Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s
international network of schools, ACG
offers comprehensive education from
kindergarten to senior high school and a
range of extracurricular activities. International
curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge
International Examinations).
The Australian
International School
Xi Early Childhood Centre
190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2
Tel: 35192727
Early Childhood & Primary School
Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2
Tel: 3744 6960
Middle & Senior School
East-West Highway, An Phu ward, D2
Tel: 3742 4040
www.aisvietnam.com
An international curricula and PYP/MYP
school. Senior students follow Cambridge
A levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam
authorised to deliver the University of New
South Wales (UNSW) Foundation Studies
Year 12 curriculum. Well-resourced classrooms,
highly qualified and experienced
teachers, excellent facilities that support
academic, creative and sporting activities.
Book a tour at enrolments@aisvietnam.
com.
British International School
Primary Campus
43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3
225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2
Secondary Campus
246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2
Tel: 3744 2335
www.bisvietnam.com
With campuses all over the city and expansion
underway, BIS offers a mixture of both
English and International curricula-based
education alongside excellent facilities and
extra-curricular activities. Senior students
follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.
ERC
86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh,
Phu Nhuan
Tel: 6292 9288
www.erci.edu.vn
ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore.
Founded by a group of successful
business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our
primary objective is to groom and mentor
a new generation of business leaders in
Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze
and solve real-world business challenges
of today.
German International School
257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh
Tel: 7300 7247
www.gis.vn
A bilingual English and German school,
supported by the Federal Republic of Germany,
where children can learn subjects
in both languages. The curriculum follows
the National Curriculum of Germany, which
provides students the assurance they can
enter or re-enter the German Education
System at any time.
Horizon International Bilingual
School HCMC
6 Street 44, D2
Te: 5402 2482
www.hibsvietnam.com
The only bilingual international school
offering dormitories for their students.
Located in the most prestigious area
in HCMC offering from kindergarten up
to grade 12. The school apply 100%
Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as
an intensive English program. HIBS also
has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.
International School
HCMC
28 Vo Truong Toan, D2
Tel: 3898 9100
www.ishcmc.com
One of 136 schools around the world to
be accredited as an IB World School. Offers
all three of the IB programmes from
primary through to grade 12. The school
is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC
and has a strong focus on community
spirit and fosters an awareness of other
languages and cultures.
KinderStar Kindergarten
08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7
Tel: 5411 8118/9
Offering bilingual preschool program with
capacity up to 900 students with the
most updated international standard.
The Little Genius International
Kindergarten
102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7
Tel: 5421 1052
Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum,
modern facilities and
attractive school grounds.
Montessori International School
International Program
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2
Tel: 3744 2639
Bilingual Program
28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2
Tel: 6281 7675
www.montessori.edu.vn
Montessori utilizes an internationally
recognized educational method which
focuses on fostering the child’s natural
desire to learn. The aim is to create an
encouraging environment conducive to
learning by developing a sense of self
and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular
activities are on offer
including Bilingual programs.
Renaissance International School
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7
Tel: 3773 3171
www.rissaigon.edu.vn
IB World school, one of Vietnam’s
international schools operating within the
framework of the British system. RISS
provide a high quality English medium
education in a stimulating, challenging
and supportive environment. The purpose
built, modern campus has excellent
facilities.
RMIT
702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7
Tel: 3776 1369
Australian university located in District 7,
offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate
courses in various fields.
Saigon South International School
Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7
Tel: 5413 0901
www.ssis.edu.vn
An International school environment
offering an American/international program
in a large, spacious campus, to
children from age 3 to grade 12. Great
facilities, extra-curricular activities and
internationally trained teachers giving
unique opportunities to learn.
Singapore International School (SIS)
No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son
Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung
Ward, Binh Chanh District
Tel: 5431 7477
44 Truong Dinh, D3
Tel: 3932 2807
Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor
Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
D1. Tel: 3827 2464
The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036
www.kinderworld.net
Students play and learn in an environment
where the best of Western
and Eastern cultures amalgamate to
prepare KinderWorld’s students for
today’s challenging world drawn from
both the Singapore and Australian curriculum.
The school offers International
Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE
and GAC.
ENTERTAINMENT
Gymboree Play & Music
Somerset Chancellor Court
21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1
Tel: 3827 7008
www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn
The Gymboree Play & Music offers children
from newborn to 5 years old the
opportunity to explore, learn and play in
an innovative parent-child programmes.
PARTIES
Beatrice’s Party Shop
235 Le Thanh Ton, D1
A lovely little shop selling everything
you need to throw your little ones a
good party. A catalogue of entertainers
showcases a number of party favourites
such as magicians, circuses and more.
Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong
131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1
A curious shop stocking a range of
hand-made fancy dress costumes such
as masks, superman outfits and much
more. The stock changes seasonally,
so this is a good place to stock up
on Halloween, Christmas and other
holiday-specific party costumes.
The Balloon Man
Tel: 3990 3560
Does exactly as his name suggests –
balloons. Great service has earned this
chap a reputation around town for turning
up almost instantly with a superb
selection of balloons. Also provides
helium balloons.almost instantly with
a superb selection of balloons. Also
provides helium balloons.
asialife HCMC 69

listings
living
camera that also specializes in repairing
all camera makes. Measurement equipment
and spare parts also available.
Shop 46
46 Nguyen Hue, D1
Small shop run by photographer and
collector. The owner’s more collectible
pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual
focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are
affordable.
finance
BUSINESS GROUPS
AmCham
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1
Business Centre, Room 323
Tel: 3824 3562
www.amchamvietnam.com
AusCham
TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh
Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74
www.auschamvn.org
British Business Group of Vietnam
25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430
execmgr@bbgv.org
www.bbgv.org
CanCham
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1
Business Centre, Room 305
Tel: 3824 3754
www.canchamvietnam.org
Citi Bank
115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118
Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of
banking services to both consumer and
corpo-rate. Services include Corporate
and Investment Banking, Global Transaction
Services, and Consumer Banking.
In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a
presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.
Eurocham
257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh
Tel: 3845 5528
www.eurochamvn.org
German Business Group
21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1
www.gba-vietnam.org
Singapore Business Group
Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
D1 Tel: 3823 3046
www.sbghcmc.org
Swiss Business Association
42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2
Tel: 3744 6996
Fax: 3744 6990
Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn
www.swissvietnam.com
Hong Kong Business Association
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1
Business Centre, Room 322
Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888
www.hkbav.com
NordCham
Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
D1 Tel: 3821 5423
www.nordcham.com
CAMERAS
Hung Hai
75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1
A good place to purchase hard-to-find
gear and some rare equipment, mainly
auto focus lenses.
Le Duc
5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3
A shop for all your professional accessory
needs. From lighting equipment to
tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the
best equipment and service in HCM City.
Pham The
11 Le Cong Kieu, D1
An authorized service centre for Nikon
COMPUTERS
Computer Street
Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen
Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai
This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to
wall with small shops selling computers,
printers, monitors and everything computer
related, more so toward the NTMK
end of the drag.
iCenter
142A Vo Thi Sau, D3
Tel: 3820 3918
Professional, polished Apple retailer
and repair centre with an attractive
showroom featuring some of the latest in
accessories and audio. English-speakers
on staff. Honours Apple service plans.
Future World
240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3
Authorized reseller of Apple computers
and products, as well as some off-brand
items like headphones. Excellent service
and English-speaking staff. Accepts
credit cards.
Phong Vu Computer
264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1
Tel: 3933 0762
www.vitinhphongvu.com
The biggest and busiest of the PC
stores in town. Known for good, efficient
service, in-house maintenance and aftersales
repair on the second floor.
SYS Vi Tinh Saigon
96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1
www.vtsaigon.com
A superb place with an excellent
reputation for after-sales service with
competent English speaking staff and
a wide range of products and services.
Freeware and shareware also available
on the store website.
CONSULTING
Concetti
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480
www.concetti-vn.com
Consulting and research company for
technology transfer and investment.
Embers-Asia Ltd.
Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan
Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163
www.embers-asia.com
With a focus on experiential learning,
Embers-Asia has been creating and
delivering high-performance training and
development solutions for
corporations, embassies, international
schools and NGOs throughout Southeast
Asia since 2002.
Ernst & Young
Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A
Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252
www.ey.com
Professional service firm specializing in
advisory, assurance, tax, transactions
and strategic growth markets.
Flamingo Corporate Services
Tel: 2217 1662
Email: info@flamingovn.com
www.flamingovn.com
Specializes in business immigration,
providing services like visas, work and
resident permits, police clearance, APEC
cards, authentication and legalization of
work experience certificates and degrees
in Vietnam and abroad.
Grant Thornton
Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
The Tipping Point
By Paul McLardie
I did something very stupid
last week; I downloaded
the UK top 40 chart for my
iPod. I just wanted something
different to listen to in
the gym. How was I to know
that I would only recognise
three or four of the artists by
their names? I don’t know
the exact date it started, but
I have begun to turn into my
parents.
Years ago, when they had
their 40th birthday party, I
remember being a 13-yearold
lad thinking how funny my
mum and dad looked dancing
to their music. Looking back
though, it’s just what they
knew and also what they
enjoye. But when does the
tipping point come? That moment
when you prefer all your
old stuff rather than listening
to new stuff?
It’s similar to one of the
first things you learn in training
when you start to deal
with personal finances. It’s
called the financial life cycle.
Everyone at a certain point in
life will be looking for different
things and have new needs.
For example, a couple in their
20s saving up looking to get
married has different needs
to someone who is getting
near retirement. It used to be
all very dry and everyone got
pigeon-holed into different
groups or categories. Things
have changed.
Since starting to work
abroad, you realise the old
financial life cycle does not
work. You can’t place people
into groups just by their age
and pre-ordained ideas about
their needs. Anyone living
abroad is here for a reason
and for different amounts
of time. It could be for the
lifestyle, it could be for the
money, it could be that you
are running away from something.
Who cares? The important
thing is that you should
be treated like an individual
and not be influenced by an
out-of-date and antiquated
method of giving financial
advice.
If you are in your 20s and
you want to start looking into
retirement, it’s up to you. If
you are heading for retirement,
but your are just about
to get married for the fifth
time, good luck to you. All I
know is that it may be some
time before I try to rediscover
my youth and for now I’ll just
stick to my old music.
Paul McLardie is a partner at
Total Wealth Management.
You can contact him at paul.
mclardie@t-wm.com.
70 asialife HCMC

Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100
www.gt.com.vn
International business advisors specializing
in auditing, management consulting,
corporate finance, risk management and
information technology.
IF Consulting
IBC Building, 3rd Floor
1A Me Linh Square, D1
4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu
Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361
Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com
Private insurance and finance.
Indochine Councel
Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1
Tel: 3823 9640
www.indochinecounsel.com
Business law firm specializing in legal
services to corporate clients in relation
to their business and investment in
Vietnam.
Inspired Image
42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1
Tel: 091 635 2573
www.inspiredimage.co.uk
Image consultant and personal stylist.
Previous clients include business leaders,
TV presenters and busy professionals.
International Management Initiative
for Vietnam (IMIV)
info@imiv.org
www.imiv.org
The International Management Initiative
for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative
within VinaCapital Foundation that
promotes excellence in business leadership
and management by bringing to
Vietnam proven international executive
education and professional development
programmes.
Phuong Nguyen Consulting
TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen
Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391
www.pnp-consulting.com
Specializing in business facilitation,
conferences, education counselling,
market-entry research and IT/business
consulting.
Prism Information Technology
Services
Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416
info@prism.com.vn
A foreign-owned information and communications
technology company that
offers value-added IT solutions. Enables
local businesses to attain and maintain
international IT standards to be more
competitive in the marketplace.
Rouse & Co. International
Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
D1 Tel: 3823 6770
www.iprights.com
Global intellectual property firm providing
a full range of IP services including patent
and trade mark agency services.
Star Management Limited
92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765
www.starlimited.com
Business advisory services for companies
investing in Vietnam, business
project advancement and a range of
business development services.
TMF Vietnam Company Limited
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade
Center
37 Ton Duc Thang, D1
Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113
Fax: 3910 0590
www.tmf-group.com
With headquarters in Amsterdam and
Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in
accounting outsourcing and consulting.
PERSONAL FINANCIAL PLANNING
Total Wealth Management
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3
Tel: 3820 0623
www.t-wm.com
Specialists in selecting and arranging
tax-efficient savings and pension plans
for expatriates. Offers councel on private
banking services, wealth protection
in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks
and hedging strategies.
Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly
Watson Wyatt and SMART HR)
Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue,
Suite 808, D1
Tel: 3821 9488
Global HR consulting firm specializing
in executive compensation, talent
management, employee rewards and
surveys, HR effectiveness and technology,
data services and total rewards
surveys.
Stock up on shower heads, kitchen
supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.),
coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans,
champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash
bins, ironing boards, magazine racks
and the like.
Chau Loan
213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991
Gallery based in a colonial shophouse
stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil
paintings and images of Buddha. Also
deals in better-known reproductions.
Decosy
112 Xuan Thuy, D2
Tel: 6281 9917
Producer of a large selection of European
styled furniture and interior fittings,
specializing in wrought iron and patine
(distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks
a wide-range of decorative accessories,
crockery and fixtures. Custom design
services available upon request.
Dogma
175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488
www.dogmavietnam.com
Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this
art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda
posters, apparel, accessories and
random paraphernalia. Large prints are
sold at USD $60 each and small prints
cost $25.
Mekong-Quilts
64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1
Tel: 3914 2119
www.mekong-quilts.org
NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and
sells a range of appealing handmade
products created by underprivileged
women in Binh Thuan Province.
Mekong Creations
64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1
Tel: 3914 2119
www.mekong-quilts.org
NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and
DECOR
Antique Street
Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between
Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh
A variety of antiques and faux antiques
from Thailand, China and Vietnam including
silverware, compasses, lighters,
brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses,
religious and pagan statues, candlestick
holders, furniture and watches.
Asian Fish
34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling
locally made gifts and souvenirs, all
designed by the Japanese owner. Products
include clothing, bags, crockery,
sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.
Aquarium Street
Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo
Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang
Dedicated street has everything one
needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed,
filters and the fish themselves.
Budget Housewares Street
Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh
Chieu
asialife HCMC 71

people matter
Romance in the Office
By Gary Woollacott
Are office romances good
or bad? Surprisingly, this
came up at a business lunch
recently. Well, if everything
goes smoothly it might not
be a problem; only if it goes
wrong can grief ensue. I am
not endorsing office romances,
only pointing out some
considerations. Single people
can do whatever they like
without worrying about others’
feelings, but those involved
in relationships have more to
think about.
It’s an easy situation to
imagine: Two people who
spend much of their working
time together learn they have
much more in common than
they thought. Or maybe they
regularly travel together for
business. Either way, an initial
spark of attraction turns into
something else and before
they know it they are spending
much more time together, and
this time it has nothing to do
with work.
The tough part is what
can happen to the working
relationship if the physical bit
ends. That might be tricky,
particularly if one party feels
aggrieved about how it comes
about. If both agree and can
handle their feelings in an adult
and professional way there's
really no reason they shouldn’t
continue to work together
— and no one needs to ever
know what happened between
them. The flip side is, one of
them is angry. If you’ve seen
Basic Instinct, you’ll know how
nasty things can get.
Speaking of films, forget
sleeping with the boss to get
ahead. That only happens in
the movies and even then it
rarely works out. In Asia few
secrets are kept, especially
in a romantic entanglement
between supervisor and subordinate,
and it won’t take long
for the rest of the office to find
out. On one insidious scenario,
one person supervises the
work of another, or company
money is involved, and maybe
no one knows that these two
are an item. That opens up the
possibility of abuse of position,
which is never a good thing.
Many companies have rules
barring couples from working
together, which may not seem
fair but at least it’s out in the
open and easier to deal with.
If you’re considering an
office fling, it may be very
exciting in the early days but
consider the longer-term
consequences. It could cost
you your job as well as a lot of
personal grief.
As usual, let me know if
you have any particular topic
you would like to see covered
here.
Gary Woollacott is the CEO of
Opus executive search in Vietnam
and Thailand. He can be
reached at +84 8 3827 8209
or via gary@opusasia.net.
Opus is a partner of Horton
International.
sells a range of appealing handmade
products created by underprivileged
women in Binh Thuan Province.
Minh Boutique
15 Nguyen Thiep, D1
Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot
warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking
sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells
a range of silverware, egg holders and
ice tongs.
OUT-2 STUDIO
L6 Fafilm annex
6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056
STUDIO@OUT-2.com
www.out-2.com
Studio space for independent designers
to showcas their wares, sell their work
and meet with clients. Open Monday t
Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.
Phuong Mai
213C Dong Khoi
www.phuongmai-gallery.com
Gallery specializing in original oils by
Vietnamese artists. The works here are a
mish-mash of styles but do contain some
standouts, particularly well-known local
artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.
Sapa
125 Ho Tung Mau, D1
Offers a better selection of hill tribe
handicrafts than most of its rivals.
Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven
clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of
the region. There is also a line in ladies’
shoes and the standard range of silk
wraps and bags.
Unity
12 Dang Tran Con, D1
Tel: 3823 9375
info@unitycompany.com
www.facebook.com/unitycompany
Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity
offers accessories that are designed to
seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar
basics are given a contemporary update
with the use of modern, alternative materials
like silicone, rubber, and brushed
aluminum. From orbital lamps and
eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped
water bottles, each individual piece
complements the others in the collection
to give your home a sense of Unity.
ELECTRONICS
Hi End Audio
84 Ho Tung Mau, D1
A standout that stocks the very latest
and greatest in home entertainment.
Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen
TVs to audio equipment. Most
top brands are available.
iDEAS Shopping Centre
133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3
The largest of the electonics stores
along the street, the three-storey iDEAS
sells every type of electronic and home
appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties.
Staff speaks some English.
Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre
63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1
Tel: 3821 1211
www.nguyenkim.com
Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras,
TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo,
Panasonic, Philips and other major
manufacturers. Also a good place to pick
up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee
makers and rice cookers, as well as large
and small appliances, from hot water
heaters to regrigerators.
Phong Vu
125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1
Tel: 6290 8777
www.vitinphongvu.com
Two-storey electronics store retails in
international products conveniently
grouped by brand. Carries computers,
home audio, printers, hard drives and
more, as well as a variety of mobile
phones, handheld electronic devices and
accessories.
Savico
117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993
One-stop electronics and home appliance
superstore. All products have a one
to three-year warranty.
Tech Street
Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton
That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1
Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic
money counters, video games and
systems, Discmans, mp3 players and
portable DVD players.
FURNITURE
Appeal
41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258
A small, upscale shop that offers modern
accents for the sleek dining room. The
colours of the over-sized vases and
fruit bowls are either glistening red or
lacquered black.
AustinHome
20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023
Outstanding quality and style for your
home. The shop says its products are
hand-picked by an American furniture
expert from the best factories in Vietnam.
Upholstery, accessories, antiques and
more.
Catherine Denoual
15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394
Beautiful showroom with clean lines and
a sumptuous array of bedroom products
including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases
and duvet covers.
Decosy
112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917
Producer of a large selection of European
styled furniture and interior fittings,
specializing in wrought iron and patine
(distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks
a wide-range of decorative accessories,
crockery and fixtures. Custom design
services available upon request.
Esthetic
11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh
Tel: 3514 7371/7372
Fax: 3514 7370
esthetic@vnn.vn
www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn
Design and manufacture as order with a
mixture of antique and modern furniture.
Friendly staff speak excellent English.
Furniture Outlet
3A Ton Duc Thang, D1
Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104
Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully
constructed pine wood pieces at
good prices, aimed at customers craving
a taste of Europe.
Furniture Street
Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To
and Nguyen Chi Thanh
Very affordable furniture can be found on
this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks,
chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to
find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba
Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.
Gaya
1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1
Tel: 3925 1495
www.gayavietnam.com
Four-floor store featuring the work of
foreign designers: home accessories and
outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston,
linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda,
furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh,
laquerware decor by Michele De Albert
and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.
LINH‘S WHITE
37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863
Furniture shop that focuses on solid
wood furniture and decorative items
ranging from pillows and lamps to
bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and
custom pieces.
Rare Decor
41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284
137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh
72 asialife HCMC

Tel: 3840 6304/5
Leading home furnishings company in
Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique
products. Also offer custom made
furniture, accessories and lighting for
commercial projects and home use.
The Furniture Warehouse
3B Ton Duc Thang, D1
Tel: 6657 0788
namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@
webtnl.com
Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian,
European and French colonial sofas,
indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting
and interior décor, as well as custom
designs based on clients’ specifications.
The Lost Art
31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1
Tel: 3829 0134
Extensive product range as well as
comprehensive interior design service,
from initial conceptualization to design,
manufacture and installation of unique
products.
INSURANCE
Blue Cross Vietnam
8th Flr. River View Tower,
Thai Van Lung, D1
Tel: 3821 9908
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific
Cross group of companies with over 60
years' experience in providing health and
travel insurance to people and businesses
who call Asia home. Our reputation for
transparent, honest and reliable service
means we are the strength behind your
insurance. To make sure you are getting
the most out of your insurance please
contact us for a free quote.
LEGAL
Allens Arthur Robinson
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3822 1717
www.vietnamlaws.com
Australian law firm for law translation
services and legal advice on foreign
investment and business in Vietnam.
Baker & McKenzie
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3829 5585
www.bakernet.com
International law firm providing on-theground
liaison and support services to
clients interested in investigating, negotiating
and implementing projects in Vietnam.
Frasers International
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1
Tel: 3824 2733
www.frasersvn.com
Full service commercial law firm providing
international and Vietnamese legal advice
to both foreign and local clients specializing
in transactions in Vietnam.
Indochine Counsel
Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1
Tel: 3823 9640
www.indochinecounsel.com
Business law practitioners specializing
in mergers & acquistions, inward investment,
and securities & capital markets.
Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville
Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1
Tel: 6291 7000
www.limcharoen.com
Full service international law firm with
head office in Thailand. Main focus on
real estate in Asia.
Phillips Fox
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3822 1717
Full service law firm providing legal
services in healthcare, education, crime,
banking and hospitality among others.
Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3823 0796
www.pwc.com/vn
Part of a network of international legal
and financial advisors, PWC gives both
specialist and general legal advice with a
focus on mutli-territory projects.
Rödl & Partner
Somerset Chancellor Court
21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1
Tel: 3824 4225
www.roedl.com
European legal firm assisting foreign
investors with structuring/establishing
companies, investment projects, and
mergers & acquistions.
LIGHTING
Luxury Light
1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh,
Phu My Hung, D7
For those who really want to bring a
touch of luxury to their homes, this place
deals with Italian imported lighting from
the ultra - modern to the traditional
Murano style chandeliers. Extremely
expensive reflecting the quality of the
design and workmanship.
Mosaique
98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
One of the best and most diverse selections
of lamps in town with everything
from the ordinary decorative lotus silk
lamp to more inventive and original
designs in lacquer and silk.
MOTORBIKES
Bike City
480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7
Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range
of accessories, including apparel. Sells
Vemar helmets, a brand that passes
rigorous European Union standards.
Protec Helmets
18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1
248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan
417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3
American nonprofit manufacturer makes
112 Xuan Thuy
Ward Thao Dien
District 2
Ho Chi Minh City
Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917
shop-hcm@decosy.biz
asialife HCMC 73

helmets with densely compressed polystyrene
shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass
exterior, available with polycarbonate
shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.
REAL ESTATE
CB Richard Ellis
Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1
Tel: 3824 6125
www.cbre.com
International property consultants and
developers with both commercial and
private properties for sale, lease and
rent.
Diamond Plaza
34 Le Duan Street
Tel: 3822 1922
lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn
Located in the heart of District 1, connected
to Diamond PLaza. Services
1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym,
swimming pool and panoramic views of
the city.
find your new
home at
search
HousingInteractive
www.housinginteractive.com
Offering an easy-to-use, comprehensive
website that only lists authentic
apartments and villas throughout Ho
Chi Minh City. The website empowers
users to make specific searches
to narrow down properties in order
to suit their exact requirements and
save time.
Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's
professional staff is available 6 days
a week to introduce tenants to their
future homes.
InterContinental Asiana
Saigon Residences
Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du,
D1 Tel: 3520 8888
saigon@interconti.com
www.intercontinental.com/saigonres
Contemporary residential space in the
heart of the major business and cultural
area in District 1. There are 260
select
move
one, two or three-bedroom units plus
health club and outdoor swimming pool.
Namhouse
Corporation
48A Tran Ngoc Dien,
Thao Dien, D2
Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511
www.namhouse.com.vn
Provides rental properties, construction
services and interior decorating.
Supports professional services and
after-sales.
Riverside Apartments
53 Vo Truong Toan, D2
Tel: 3744 4111
www.riverside-apartments.com
One of the first luxury serviced apartments
in town located next to the
Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.
Savills Viet Nam
Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham
Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205
www.savills.com.vn
Savills Viet Nam is a property service
provider that has been established in
Vietnam since 1995 offering research,
advisory services, residential sales,
commercial leasing, asset management,
retail advisory, valuation, investment
advisory and more.
Sherwood Residence
127 Pasteur St., D3
Tel: 3823 2288
Fax: 3823 9880
Hotline: 0917470058
leasing@sherwoodresidence.com
www.sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a luxury
serviced apartment property and the
first property certified by the Vietnam
National Administration of Tourism.
Modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class with 5-star
facilities and service.
Snap
Tel: 0989 816 676
www.snap.com.vn
Online Real Estate service
providing information on rental properties
exclusively in District 2. Full listings
online.
RECRUITMENT
HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC
Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia
Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800
www.hr2b.com
HR consulting advises businesses on
how to improve employee productivity.
The search team specializes in matching
senior level Vietnamese professionals
and managers to top level opportunities
in both major cities.
Opus Vietnam
2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi
Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209
www.opusasia.net
Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus
services local and multinational companies
seeking to recruit high quality
personnel. An Associate of Horton
International, one of the world’s leading
search groups with over 30 offices
worldwide. For more info contact info@
opusasia.net.
RELOCATION AGENTS
Allied Pickfords
Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong
Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454
Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn
http://vn.alliedpickfords.com
Moving and relocating services company
specializing in business and office moves.
Overseas and specialist movers also
available.
Crown Worldwide
Movers
48A Huynh Man Dat,
Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127
www.crownrelo.com
hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com
Not just International or local moving and
storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide
range of services including orientations,
immigration, home search, intercultural
training through to pet relocation. Call the
team on the above number and check
out our website for more information.
JVK International Movers
Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat
Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6
chris.honour@jvkasia.com
www.jvk.com
International agengy with a full range of
services including sea/air freight services
and worldwide transit coverage.
Santa Fe Relocation Services
Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen
Gia Thieu, D3
Tel: 3933 0065
www.santaferelo.com
Provides a range of services including
home/school search, language/cultural
training, tenancy management and immigration/visa
support.
STATIONERY
Custom Signage Street
Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and
Nguyen Thai Hoc
Offers custom-designed signs and custom
engraving on trophies and plaques
made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.
Fahasa
40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796
Bookstore chain carries an expansive
stock of office and home stationary; a
one-stop shop for basic needs.
Pi-Channel
45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253
www.pi-channel.com
Boutique shop carries up-market collections
of pens and notepads, as well as
desktop organisers, clocks, calendars
and frames. Corporate services offered.
74 asialife HCMC

listings
fashion
ACCESSORIES
Accessorize
Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1
www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize
Fashion-forward accessories including
necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops,
sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and
more.
Alfred Dunhill
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1
A timeless style in male luxury providing
formal and casual mens accesories
tailored for the discerning man. Also
stocking handcrafted leather goods.
Anupa Boutique
17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307
anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net
The ever-changing boutique retails in
the elegant design of anupa accessories
made from high-quality leather.
Collections available range from men,
women, executive, travel, spa, yoga,
board games, boxes and semi-precious
stone jewellery. Collection changes on
weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery,
Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte
scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things
of Substance.
Bally
Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1
www.experience.bally.com
Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing
luxury Italian-made accessories for men.
Among these are shoes, belts, wallets
and a collection of male jewellery.
Banana
128 Ly Tu Trong, D1
Women’s accessories and more, from
bags, clutches and belts to clothes and
jewellery, all at reasonable prices.
Cartier
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan
This well-known designer brand displays
a wide range of accessories for men. Famous
for its watches, Cartier also stocks
pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.
Cincinati
177P Dong Khoi, D1
www.cincinati.vn
info@cincinati.vn
Vietnamese brand of genuine leather
bags, shoes, accessories and personal
goods for men and women: notebooks
for a classic vagabond look. Quality
leather from crocodile, horse, snake and
fish made by local craftsmanship.
Cleo-Pearls
30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2
Tel: 091 3587 690
Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates
Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing
in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key
holders and bag accessories. All pieces
created with gemstones, fresh water
pearls and beads.
Coconut
100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1
Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the
roost in this small shop. Made of silk and
embroidered to the brim, these unique
bags start at about USD $30, and many
are suitable for both day and night.
Creation
105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429
A two-storey shop selling scarves,
intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade
silk dresses and tops. Has a wide
range of materials on the second floor.
Gallery vivekkevin
FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1
Tel: 6291 3709
info@vivekkevin.com
www.galeryvivekkevin.com
Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings
and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on
design, craftsmanship and finish, as well
as educating clients on the intricacies of
each piece.
Gucci
88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688
Located on the main shopping street in
HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine
fashion to an array of luxury leather
goods such as briefcases, luggage and a
selection of men’s shoes for office or more
casual occasions.
Ipa-Nima
71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652
77 Dong Khoi, D1
Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.
Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer
turned designer who produces eclectic
and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks
costume jewellery and shoes.
J. Silver
803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7
Tel: 5411 1188
Make a statement without being ostentatious
with handcrafted silver jewellery from
the boutique store. Expect big, interesting
pieces that are simple yet glamorous.
Laura V Signature
11 Dong Du, D1
Tel: 7304 4126
www.laurav.net
Vintage designs aplenty with everything
from jewellery and hair accessories to
funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and
colourful maxi dresses.
Louis Vuitton
Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1
Tel: 3827 6318
Designer brand name housing traditional
craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for
men and women. An array of bags, wallets,
cuff links and watches are available.
Mai O Mai
4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007
A superb little place with beautiful jewellery
and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver
necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in
both classic and imaginative designs, as
well as gorgeous hand-embroidered bags.
Mont Blanc
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan
Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont
Blanc also houses cuff links and other
male accessories
Rimowa
Level 2 OperaView Tower, 161 Dong
Khoi, D1 Tel: 3832 6941
hotline@rimowavietnam.com
The German luggage maker is popular
with a who’s who of the celebrity world.
Their range of cases come in varying sizes
and are made from high-tech materials
to provide exceptional durability while
remaining very light weight.
Scorpion
Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh
Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889
www.scorpionbag.com
Selling high-end leather products for
both men and women, including shoes,
handbags, belts and other accessories.
Features a variety of leather in bright
colors and styles.
Tic Tac Watch Shop
72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519
www.tictacwatch.com
asialife HCMC 75

femme fashion
Elegant show room displaying some
of the world’s most recognized Swiss
brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume
& Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site
watch repair service and complementary
watch evaluation available. Also carries a
small collection of vintage Rolexes.
Massive and minimalist design-led interior
lets ultra high-end designer garments
stand out. Carries men's, women's and
children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes,
accessories along with home décor.
Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs,
Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.
Know Your Skin
By Christina Yu
Those who know Ipa-Nima
know we didn’t start producing
leather bags until about
seven years ago. Around that
time I went to a course held
by the British Leather Centre
to learn more about leather.
I was surprised to find how
similar our skins are with
animal skins, and how many
misconceptions we have
about leather. Many who own
leather bags think they should
be as durable as possible
and never fade. The truth,
however, is the complete
opposite — we need to look
after leather in the same way
we look after our own skin.
The best kind of skin is the
top layer, also called aniline.
We buy skin care products
with collagen to ensure our
own skin looks as radiant as
ever. The same concept goes
for leather — the top layer is
the most precious. The best
aniline should have no scars
or marks, and be smooth and
consistent in texture. That
way the texture remains soft
and looks natural. However,
because of the lack of chemicals,
aniline leather is not as
durable as one would think.
In order to keep the leather,
you need to moisturize it from
time to time, and look after it
from the very beginning.
The first step in taking care
of aniline leather is having a
good leather moisturizer and
a good repellant, like Scotch
Guard Fabric Protector. When
you buy your bags, moisturize
them first and then spray
them with the repellant.
Concentrate on the back of
the bag where there may be
more friction. This can protect
it from being scratched easily
or scarred and also from
getting soiled in light rain.
Test your moisturizer on a
small part of the bag first to
see what kind of reaction it
will have on the rest of the
leather.
Do not leave the bag in
sunlight — put the bag in a
shady area of the room so it
will not change colour easily.
Some types of leather, called
a natural crust, may change
to a darker shade with use
and sunlight. This is a natural
progression for the leather
(similar to how our own skin
changes when exposed to
the sun).
Although you may think
your leather bag is defective
because it gets scratched
and scarred easily, the opposite
holds true. Now, you
know your skin.
Christina Yu is the creative
director and founder of
Ipa-Nima, an award-winning
accessories brand. Email
your questions to Christina@
ipa-nima.com or visit Ipanima.com.
Tombo
145 Dong Khoi, D1
Of all the embroidered and sequined
bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka”
shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi,
this shop’s has products that are prettier
than most. Shoes can be custom-made
and the sales staff is friendly.
Umbrella
35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1
Tel: 6276 2730
www.umbrella-fashion.com
Sophisticated boutique showcasing
a diverse range of imported women’s
accessories. Also houses women’s garments
from office wear to cocktail and
party creations.
ACTIVE WEAR
Roxy and Quiksilver
Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1
The original active living and extreme
sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products
combine form and function. Choose
from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.
TBS Sports Centre
102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan
This store stocks a range of good sports
clothes and equipment from big name
brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco,
Nike and Converse.
Volcom
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1
Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand
from America. Lots of tank tops, minis
and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends
or lazing on the beach.
READY TO WEAR
unisex
BAM Skate Shop
174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826
In addition to a range of decks, wheels
and trucks, this small shop is stocked
with bookbags, skate sneakers, track
jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with
your skateboard company of choice.
FCUK
127 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1
Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Tel: 3914 7740
www.frenchconnection.com
Trendy UK brand with a selection of
fashion-forward dresses for women and
smart workwear and funky casual wear
for men, all at middle-market prices.
L’Usine
151/1 Dong Khoi, D1
Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a
period building restored to evoke the
aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment
factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently
refreshed line of imported men’s
and women’s fashion, including T-shirts
and footwear, and a range of unique
accessories. Entrance via the street-level
Art Arcade.
Replay
Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1
116 Nguyen Trai, D1
187 Hai Ba Trung, D3
Tel: 3925 0252
Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim
for teens and university-age men and
women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps
and sneakers at mid-range prices.
Runway
Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Tel: 3993 9988
runway.sg@global-fashion.vn
Versace
26 Dong Khoi
Designer brand in men’s formal wear.
Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts
as well as an array of men’s accessories.
Also stocks womens clothing and
shoes.
men
Lucas
69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670
Fashion store housing contemporary
designs in casual, office and evening
wear imported from Hong Kong.
Massimo Ferrari
42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3
Tel: 3930 6212
Bespoke menswear shop also boasts
its own brand of contemporary preppy
attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a
line of European-quality shoes, bags and
accessories designed in-house, as well
as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags,
designer fragrances and eyewear.
Mattre
19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412
This local men’s clothes shop has some
funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward
males. Apparel in sizes that fit
the typical Western man’s frame are
often available.
Milano
Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi
www.milanogoods.com
A conjoining shop with D&G offering
a selection of men’s shoes and accessories
with a sideline in women’s clothing.
D&G provides a collection of menswear,
from casual jeans and T-shirts to
uniquely designed suit jackets.
Timberland
Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1
Sells everything the brand is known
for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and
trousers that are both smart and casual.
The emphasis is on muted tones and
unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like
to show off.
women
Axara
Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh
Ton, D1
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1
21 Nguyen Trai, D1
Tel: 3993 9399
www.axara.com
Carries women’s clothing suitable for
work, weekends or evening. Luxurious
fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at
reasonable prices. Also carries handbags
and accessories.
Balenciaga
Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue
Tel: 6291 3572
Sporting modern shapes and elegant
items crafted from natural, raw and
artificial materials.
BCBGMAXAZRIA
Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton,
D1
American brand sells women’s day
dresses and tops, evening gowns and
wear-to-work attire in many prints and
colours. Also carries a small selection of
accessories, sunglasses and watches.
Bebe
Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1
Tel: 3914 4011
www.bebe.com
An international brand that specializes
in contemporary, modern tees and sexy,
elegant dresse, tops and party attire.
76 asialife HCMC

Chloe
Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1
Tel: 6291 3582
Parisian-influenced fashion house
specializes in simple, traditional designs
with a feminine and fashionable twist.
Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of
accessories are on display.
Gaya
1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1
Tel: 3925 1495
Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter
garments and silk and organza
dresses in vibrant colours created by
Cambodia-based designer Romyda
Keth.
Geisha Boutique
85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004
enquiry@geishaclothing.com
Facebook: Geisha Boutique
Australian fashion label offering a contemporary
range of casual and evening
wear with an Asian influence. Printed
tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer
scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and
satin maxi dresses.
Kookai
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi
French brand stocking classic, feminine,
styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses
and classic little black dresses at mid- to
high-range prices are perfect for twentyand
thirty-something women.
La Senza
47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1
Tel: 3925 1700
65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1
Tel: 3914 4328
www.lasenza.com
Boutique carrying a wide range of bras,
panties, pyjamas, accessories and
lounge wear.
Mango
96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1
Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1
A favourite with fashion-conscious
women, this mid-range store stocks
clothes from simple tees and jeans to
evening wear.
Marc Jacobs
Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1
Tel: 6291 3580
This spacious shop with high-ceilings
carries up-market clothes, shoes and
accessories from the internationally
recognized designer brand.
Song
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1
Offers women’s fashion designs by
Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including
evening dress, tops and hats.
Valenciani
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1
Tel: 3821 2788
66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688
valenciani.sg@gmail.com
www.valenciani.com
Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk
dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls
and a range of accessories, all designed
in-house.
SHOES
Charles & Keith
10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai
Tel: 3925 1132
Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1
www.charleskeith.com
Singapore brand housing youthful and
trendy shoes of a contemporary, high
fashion design.
Converse
186 Hai Ba Trung, D1
148 Nguyen Trai, D1
122 Ba Thang Hai, D10
Tel: 3827 5584
www.converse.com.vn
Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell
and All-Star sneakers and Converse
brand clothing and accessories. Also at
department stores around HCMC.
Dr. Marten’s
173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710
Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature
the classic yellow stitching and chunky
rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes
and accessories by Replay and Kappa
tracksuit tops.
Sergio Rossi
146AB Pasteur, D1
Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1
World-renowned Italian brand stocks a
diverse European-style collection of upmarket
shoes and bags made of quality
materials, from crocodile and python
skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski
crystals and colourful beads.
TAILORS
Dieu Thanh
140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851
www.dieuthanh.com
Experienced tailor shop specializes in
swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as
business suits, evening dresses, luxury
fabrics and accessories.
Massimo Ferrari
42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3
Tel: 3930 6212
Traditional Italian sartorial techniques
are employed to offer a full wardrobing
service and custom tailoring for men.
Stocked with imported fabrics primarily
from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings
available.
Uyen
13 Nguyen Thiep, D1
An excellent option with English-speaking
staff and a good selection of fabrics
(although the price takes a dip if you
bring your own) and some off-the-rack
staples to copy. Reasonable prices.
LINH‘S WHITE
PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM
37 THAO DIEN
(OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET)
67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2
PHONE: (84) - 62819863
- 62818488
E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn - www.linhfurniture.com
asialife HCMC 77

AsiaLIFE Pre-Launch Party at Bed Supperclub, Bangkok
Red Rock Reggae Splash on the Island
Photos by Nick McGrath, Chris Mueller and Alex McMillan.
78 asialife HCMC

Dose Party
Thao Trang Video Release
Adidas at Lush
asialife HCMC 79

Street Guide
3 Thang 2 D1
Alexandre de Rhodes
C4
Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3
Ban Co
D1
Ben Chuong Duong
E4
Ben Van Don
E4, E5
Bui Thi Xuan
D3
Bui Vien
E3
Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3
Calmette
E4
Cao Ba Nha
E3
Cao Thang
D1, D2, E2
Chu Manh Trinh
C4, C5
Co Bac
E3
Co Giang
E3
De Tham
E3
Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2
Dinh Cong Trang
B3
Dinh Tien Hoang
B3, B4, C4
Do Quang Dau
E3
Do Thanh
D1
Doan Nhu Hai
E5
Doan Van Bo
E4, E5
Dong Du
D5
Dong Khoi
C4, D4, D5
Hai Cua
B5
Huynh Tinh Cua
B2
Huynh Van Banh
B1
Khanh Hoi
E4
Ky Con
B3, C3, C4, D5
Hai Trieu
C5
Ham Nghi
D4, C5
Han Thuyen
C4
Ho Hao Hon
E3
Ho Huan Nghiep
D5
Ho Tung Mau
D4, D5
Ho Xuan Huong
C3, D2
Hoa Hung
B1
Hoang Dieu
E4, E5
Hung Vuong
E1
Huyen Tran Cong Chua
D3
Huynh Man Dat
B5
Huynh Thuc Khang
D4
Ky Dong
C1, C2
Le Cong Kieu
D4
Le Duan
C4, C5
Le Hong Phong
D1
Le Lai
C3, C4, D3
Le Loi
D4
Le Quoc Hung
E4, E5
Le Quy Don
C3
Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4
Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4
Le Thi Rieng
D3
Le Van Phuc
B3
Le Van Sy
C1, C2
Luong Huu Khanh
D2, E2
Luu Van Lang
D4
Ly Chinh Thang
B2, C2
Ly Thai To
E1
Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5
Mac Dinh Chi
B3, C4
Mac Thi Buoi
D5
Mai Thi Luu
B4
Mai Van Ngoc
B1
Me Linh
B5
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4
Ngo Duc Ke
D5
Ngo Thoi Nhiem
C2, D2
Ngo Van Nam
C5
Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5
Nguyen Cong Tru
E4
Nguyen Cu Trinh
E2, E3
Nguyen Dinh Chieu B4, C3, C4, D1, D2, D3
Nguyen Dinh Chinh
B1
80 asialife HCMC
Nguyen Du
Nguyen Hai Tu
Nguyen Hue
Nguyen Huu Canh
Nguyen Huu Canh
Nguyen Huu Cau
Nguyen Khac Nhu
Nguyen Khoai
Nguyen Ngoc Phuong
Nguyen Phi Khanh
Nguyen Sieu
Nguyen Son Ha
Nguyen Tat Thanh
Nguyen Thai Binh
Nguyen Thai Hoc
Nguyen Thi Dieu
Nguyen Thien Thuat
Nguyen Thong
Nguyen Thuong Hien
Nguyen Trai
Nguyen Trung Ngan
Nguyen Trung Truc
Nguyen Truong To
Nguyen Van Cu
Nguyen Van Hai
Nguyen Van Lac
Nguyen Van Thu
Nguyen Van Troi
Pasteur
Pham Hong Thai
Pham Ngoc Thach
Pham Ngu Lao
Pham Viet Chanh
Pham Viet Chanh
Phan Dinh Phung
Phan Ke Binh
Phan Van Han
Pho Duc Chinh
Phung Khac Khoan
Suong Nguyet Anh
Tan Vinh
Thach Thi Thanh
Thai Van Lung
Thi Sach
Thu Khoa Huan
Ton Duc Thang
Ton That Dam
Ton That Thiep
Ton That Tung
Tran Binh Trong
Tran Canh Chan
Tran Cao Van
Tran Dinh Xu
Tran Hung Dao
Tran Khac Chan
Tran Khanh Du
Tran Minh Quyen
Tran Minh Quyen
Tran Nhan Ton
Tran Nhat Duat
Tran Phu
Tran Quang Dieu
Tran Quang Khai
Tran Quoc Thao
Tran Quoc Toan
Tran Van Dang
Truong Chinh
Truong Dinh
Tu Xuong
Vinh Khanh
Vo Thi Sau
Vo Van Tan
Vuon Chuoi
Xo Viet Nghe Tinh
Yersin
C4, D3, D4
B4
D4, D5
B2
C5
B3
E3
F3
B5
B3
C5, D5
D2
E5
D4, E4
D3, E3, E4
D2, D3
D1, E1, E2
C1, C2, D2
D2
D3, E2
C5
D4
E4, E5
E2
B3
B5
B4, C3, C4
B1
C2, C3, C4, D4
D2, D3
C3
D3, D4, E3
B5
E2
B2
B4
B4, B5
D4, E4
C3, C4
D2, D3
E4
B3
C5
C5
D4
C5, D4, D5, E4
D4
D4
D2, D3
E1
E2
C4
E2, E3
D4, E2, E3
B3
B2, B3
D1
C1
E1
B3
E1
B1, B2
B3, B2
C2, C3
B2, B3, B2
C1, C2
C3
C2, D3
C2, C3, D2
E4, E5
B3, C2, C3
C3, D2, D3
D2
B4, B5
E4
A
Airport
3km
B
Tran Van Dang
C
Tan Binh
0.5km
Hoa Hung
District 11
2km
Tran Minh Quyen
Tran Nhan Ton
Huynh Van Banh
Tran Minh Quyen
Dien Bien Phu
Le Hong Phong
Saigon
Train Station
Lan Anh
Sports &
Leisure Club
Ly Thai To
Tran Quang Dieu
Tran Quang Dieu
Hung Vuong
Nguyen Van Troi
Cach Mang Thang Tam
3 Thang 2
Ban Co
Nguyen Th ong
Nguyen Thien Thuat
Tran Binh Trong
Ng Dinh Chinh
Tran Phu
Le Van Sy
Tran Minh Quyen
DISTRICT 10
D
E
1
PHU NHUAN
An Duong Vuong
Tran Van Dang
Cao Thang
Do Thanh
DISTRICT 5
Huyn h Van Banh
Ky Dong
University
of Natural
Sciences
V
Ng. Thuong
. Chuoi
Nguyen Van Cu
Teacher
Training
University
Ly Chinh T hang
Hien
Vuon
Chuoi
Market
Nguyen Trai
2
Phan Dinh Phung
Truong Dinh
Tu Xuong
Nam Ky Kh
Vo Thi Sau
Nguyen Son Ha
Dien B
Nguyen Thi Minh K
Pham Viet Chanh
Nguyen Tho
Nguyen Dinh
V
DISTR

3
Gia Dinh
Hospital
4
5
Phan Xich Long
Ky Khoi Nghia Nam Ky Khoi Nghia
Tran
Sau Vo Thi Sau
Dien Bien Phu
yen Thong
en Dinh Chieu
Minh Khai
Nguyen Van Nguyen
Nguyen Trai
Tran Khanh Du
Huynh Tinh Cua
Ba Huyen Thanh Quan
Ngo Thoi Nhiem
Luong Huu Khanh
Suong Nguyet Anh
Ton That Tung
Thai Binh
Market
Cong Quynh
Tran Dinh Xu
War
Remnants
Museum
Cultural Park
Cach Mang Thang Tam
Cao Ba Nha
Ng. Huu Cau
Le Thi Rieng
Nguyen Trai
Do Q. Dau
Le Lai
Thach Thi Thanh
D. C. Trang
Vo Van Tan Vo Van Tan
Cao Thang
N. V. Hai
Cu Lao
Quoc ToanTran Quoc Toan
Ho Xuan Huong
RICT 1
Tran Nhat Duat
Nguyen Thi Dieu
Hai Ba Trung
Tran Quoc Thao
Bui Thi Xuan
Nguyen Cu Trinh
Tran Khac Chan
DISTRICT 3
Nguyen Gia Thieu
Le Quy Don
Pham Ngu Lao
Ho H. Hon
Truong Quyen
Bui Vien
Co Bac
Tran Quang Khai
Le Van Tam
Park
Pham Ngoc Thach
Pasteur
Truong Dinh
Vo Huy Tan
Re-unification
Palace
Huyen Tran Cong Chua
Nguyen Thai Hoc
De Tham
Ng Kh Nhu
Ng. Phi Khanh
L. V. Phuc
Co Giang
Thu Kh Huan
Pham Hong Thai
De Tham
Le Thi Hong Gam
Tran Hung Dao Tran Hung Dao
Dinh Tien Hoang
Ly Tu Trong
Ng Hai Tu
Nguyen Van Thu
Alexandre De Rhodes
Nguyen Du
Nguyen An Ninh
Mac Dinh Chi
Nguyen Dinh Chieu
Tran Cao Van
Ben
Thanh
Market
Bus
Station
Central
Post Office
Le Loi
Hoa Lu
Stadium
Dinh Tien Hoang
Hai Ba Trung
Town Hall
HTV
television
Le Duan Le Duan
Pasteur
Nguyen Trung Truc
Ky Con
Phan Ke Binh
Nguyen Thai Binh
Yersin
Han Thuyen
L. V. Lang
Ng. Cong Tru
Mai Thi Luu
Dong Khoi
Le Cong Kieu
Pho Duc Chinh
Calmette
Ben Van Don
BINH THANH
Nguyen Du
Hoang Sa
Ham Nghi
Le Loi
Ton Th at Thiep
T. T. Dam
Xo Viet Nghe Tinh
Chu Manh Trinh
Ly Tu Trong
Nguyen Hue
Ton Duc Thang
Thi Sach
Le Quoc Hung
Mac
Thai Van Lung
Dong Du
Ngo
Ng Sieu
Cao Ba Quat
Pham Van Han
Le Thanh Ton Le Thanh Ton
Pasteur
Truong Sa
2 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1
DISTRICT 1
Huynh Thuc Khang
Vinh Khanh
Hoang Dieu
Ho Tung Mau
Ng. Cong Tru
Nguyen
Trung Ngan
Ng Truong To
Hai Trieu
Zoo & Botanical
Gardens
Nguyen Binh Khiem
Phan Van Dat
Thi Buoi
H.H.Nghiep
Duc Ke
Doan Nhu Hai
Doan Van Bo
Ngo V
DISTRICT 4
Nguyen Cuu Van
an Nam
Nguyen Tat Thanh
Nguyen Ngoc Phuong
Nguyen Huu Canh
Ton Duc
Thang Museum
Thu Thiem
Ferry Port
(for District 2)
HCM City
Boat Quay
(for Vung Tau)
asialife HCMC 81
Huynh Tinh Cua
Huynh Man Dat
Saigon Bridge
& Highway 1
3km
Cat Lai Ferry
9km
District 7
& Nha Be
Nguyen Van Lac
Me Linh
Vung Tau

adar
A Better Use for OkCupid
blog.okcupid.com
Dating site OkCupid hasn’t updated its blog since last year, but if you’ve
never had a look, do it. You’ll be glad you did, no matter your feelings about
cyber romance. OkTrends takes data from millions of users to show titillating
patterns such as: the percent of men who prefer rough sex increases with
age, or, vegetarians enjoy performing oral sex more than meat-eaters. Most
of the findings reflect correlation more than causation, but that doesn’t make
them useless. One blog post applies the data to first dates. For instance, if it’s
too soon to ask your date’s religious views, ask whether she minds spelling
and grammar mistakes. If not, odds are she’s religious, according to trends
OkCupid found among its members. See? Useful!
Just the Facts
snopes.com
Watching the news has gotten so much more interesting with sites like
FactCheck.org and PolitiFact.com to alert us almost immediately when a public
official is full of, well, not facts. But another breed, Snopes.com, takes vetting
in a different direction. What it lacks in the depth and timeliness of the other
sites, Snopes makes up for in breadth. Besides political rumours, it investigates
urban legends, folklore, and all around misinformation. So in addition to
the truth about that photo of a gun-toting, bikini-clad Palin, the searchable
database will tell you whether Morgan Freeman really said Black History Month
is ridiculous, or the origin of German cake (hint: not Germany).
Allergen-Free Foods
friendlyfoodfinder.com
A friend told you about a great milk free substitute for whipped cream, where
can you find it? You want to bake a cake, who would know if the vegan buttery
sticks you found are good for baking? Friendlyfoodfinder.com can help. This
new social networking site creates a place for those with food allergies or
sensitivities to share food substitutes that have worked for them and where
they bought them. The site currently includes products suitable for those
with milk and peanut allergies and is designed to expand with help from you.
Through this website people with allergies can connect with one another and
discover manufacturers that are sensitive to those with food allergies.
82 asialife HCMC

soundfix
album review
by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen
Janka Nabay and
The Bubu Gang
En Yay Sah
Antony and The
Johnsons
Cut the World
Purity Ring
Shrines
James Yorkston
I Was A Cat From A
Book
Sierra Leonean singer Janka
Nabay began by performing
reggae, but he has built a career
with the lesser-known bubu
music. Bubu has its origins
in witchcraft ceremonies of
Nabay’s homeland and he
has breathed new life into the
centuries-old music, expanding
the genre beyond its flute and
pipe-based folk form to create
a popular, modern sound.
When civil war drove Nabay
to the United States, he rebuilt
his career as a musician while
working in fast food joints
to survive. In Brooklyn, he
began collaborating with a
band comprised of members of
Skeletons, Chairlift, Starring,
Saadi and Highlife. The group’s
first full-length record stays
true to the uplifting sound of
bubu, with beats designed to
move hips.
The core of Antony and The
Johnsons, Antony Hegarty is
not easily forgotten. On the
second track of Cut the World,
he presents seven and a half
minutes of his musings on the
moon, religion, feminism and
his transgender identity. Rather
than being overly indulgent,
his monologue — delivered in
an accent forged of his English
roots and American upbringing
— is as hypnotic as his falsetto.
Recorded live, Cut the World
culls highlights from the group’s
previous four full lengths.
Hegarty has always conducted
himself as an artist in the capital
A sense — performing with
international symphonies,
staging elaborate installations
and collaborating with music
heavyweights like Yoko Ono
and Lou Reed — and this latest
work is no exception.
From Bjork to The Knife,
various musicians have
carved out a niche that
celebrates the ethereal and
eerie. Purity Ring, a Canadian
duo from Alberta, are one
such act. Their carefully
constructed debut album,
Shrines, pairs Corin Roddick’s
electronic beats with Megan
James’ vocals. The result is a
haunting sound, reminiscent
of the witch house tunes of
Salem and Austra. Scratchy
synths layered with a
throbbing almost hip-hop bass
create dance floor rhythms,
while James’ girlish voice
floats over like a spectral
presence. Although selecting
a favourite from an overall
cohesive work is a challenge,
Ungirthed — the duo’s snappy
first release — remains one of
the record’s best.
With a substantial discography
from the past decade, James
Yorkston is one of Scotland’s bestkept
secrets. Inside the United
Kingdom, the singer-songwriter
maintains a loyal following.
Yet despite his notable Domino
Records imprint, Yorkston hasn’t
quite captured the breakout
notoriety enjoyed by fellow Fifebased
Scots King Creosote. That’s
not to say he’s undeserving.
His thoughtful lyrics, delicate
vocals and lithe guitar are
remarkable, but in a gentle
sense. Quiet and contemplative
music, even as honest and
emotional as Yorkston’s, has
the danger of being overlooked.
This latest album is solid and
will be appreciated by his fans
and perhaps attract some new
admirers, but ultimately his
audience must be measured in
quality over quantity.
84 asialife HCMC

xoneFM top ten
Hot 10
this last title artist
week week
endorsed
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
3
new
10
2
new
11
8
5
new
7
Goin In
We Are Never Ever
Getting Back Together
As Long As You Love
Me
Lost in the Echo
Thinking About You
I'm a Man
Lemonade
One More Night
Teen Idle
50 Ways to Say
Goodbye
Jennifer Lopez feat Flo
Rida
Taylor Swift
Justin Bieber feat Big
Sean
Linkin Park
Frank Ocean
Cee Lo Green
Alexandra Stan
Maroon 5
Marina and the
Diamonds
Train
Treme
By Chris Mueller
UK Top 10
this last title artist
week week
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
1
2
4
7
new
8
1
4
6
2
Bom
How We Do (Party)
Heatwave
Read All About It Pt 3
We Are Never Ever
Getting Back Together
Spectrum
(All Along the) Watchtower
We'll Be Coming Back
Wonderful
Simply Amazing
US Top 10
this last title artist
week week
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
1
2
3
7
5
6
4
11
10
12
Lights
Wide Awake
Titanium
Give Your Heart a
Break
Payphone
Let's Go
Where Have You Been
Whistle Poe Boy
Blow Me (One Last
Kiss)
Want You Back
Sam & The Womp
Rita Ora
Wiley feat Ms D
Emeli Sande
Taylor Swift
Florence & The
Machine
Devlin feat Ed
Sheeram
Calvin Harris feat
Example
Angel
Trey Songz
Ellie Goulding
Katy Perry
David Guetta feat Sia
Demi Lovato
Maroon 5 feat Wiz
Khalifa
Calvin Harris feat
Ne-Yo
Rihanna
Flo Rida
Pink
Cher Lloyd
Seven years after Hurricane
Katrina devastated the Gulf
Region, most of the postapocalyptic
landscape in and
around New Orleans has been
cleaned up. While its people
haven’t forgotten the immense
challenges, setbacks
and frustrations around the
storm, they and their unique
culture are still standing
strong.
In David Simon’s newest
made-for-HBO series,
Treme, he has succeeded
in portraying the difficulties
New Orleanians faced, and
continue to face, long after
the floodwaters receded. The
show begins three months
after Katrina and is set partly
in Treme, a poor neighbourhood
famous for its contribution
to the New Orleans music
scene. Simon, who gained
recognition for his widely
acclaimed series The Wire,
has taken the same incredibly
realistic format to Treme.
The show intertwines the
lives of a number of characters,
such as the affable Antoine
Batiste (Wendell Pierce),
a jazz trombonist constantly
struggling to find the next gig
in a city full of musicians.
Then there is Albert ‘Big
Chief’ Lambreaux (Clark
Peters), a Mardis Gras ‘Indian
chief’. The Indians dress up
in elaborate feather suits
inspired by Native Americans
during Mardi Gras, and are an
important part of New Orleans
traditions. Other notable characters
include DJ Davis (Steve
Zahn), a character based on
real New Orleans musician
Davis Rogan, who consulted
for the show; and Annie
Talarico, a classically trained
violinist who makes money
busking on the street.
After the first few episodes
it becomes clear that the true
star of the series is the music.
Every character is influenced
in some way by both the
hurricane and New Orleans
music. Like the tough bar
owner LaDonna, also Batiste’s
ex-wife, who desperately tries
to keep a familiar part of the
community alive as the city
seemingly descends further
into chaos around her. Or
John Goodman’s excellent
portrayal of a vocal English
professor and author who
tries to show the world his city
is still alive and kicking. In the
opening of the first episode he
throws a British TV journalist’s
camera into the river after
the reporter suggests the city
doesn’t deserve to be saved.
The gloomy premise of the
show and the light it shines
on the pathetic mishandlings
by local and federal governments
during and after Katrina
can sometimes make for
depressing viewing. But there
is enough humour and brilliant
acting that the viewer can’t
help but sympathise with
nearly every character. Treme
shows how the city can bring
out the best and worst in the
characters that inhabit it.
asialife HCMC 85

oxoffice
The Odd Life of
Timothy Green
Academy Award-nominated
director/writer Peter Hedges
(Dan in Real Life, What’s Eating
Gilbert Grape) brings enchantment
to the screen with The Odd
Life of Timothy Green, a story
about a happily married couple,
Cindy and Jim Green (Jennifer
Garner and Joel Edgerton), who
can't wait to start a family but
can only dream about what
their child would be like. After
learning Cindy is infertile, they
write a description of their
perfect child on a piece of paper
and bury it in the garden. When
young Timothy (CJ Adams)
shows up on their doorstep one
stormy night claiming to be
their son, Cindy and Jim — and
their small town of Stanleyville
— learn that sometimes the
unexpected can bring some of
life's greatest gifts.
Premium Rush The Expendables 2
A New York City bike messenger
is given an envelope by
a young woman at an uptown
Manhattan college and is told
he has 90 minutes to deliver it
to Chinatown. Dodging speeding
cars, crazed cabbies, open
doors, and eight million cranky
pedestrians is all in a day's
work for Wilee (Joseph Gordon-
Levitt), but this time complications
ensue when an undercover
police officer appears and
demands the envelope. The
truth, hidden motivations, and
the life-and-death stakes on
all side are revealed through a
series of flashbacks as the cop
and the messenger engage in
a length-of-Manhattan chase.
From David Koepp, the director
and writer of Ghost Town and
writer of Spider-Man and War of
the Worlds.
The Expendables are back and
this time it's personal. Barney
Ross (Sylvester Stallone), Lee
Christmas (Jason Statham), Yin
Yang (Jet Li), Gunnar Jensen
(Dolph Lundgren),Toll Road
(Randy Couture) and Hale
Caesar (Terry Crews) — with
newest members Billy the Kid
(Liam Hemsworth) and Maggie
(Yu Nan) aboard — are reunited
when Mr Church (Bruce
Willis) enlists the Expendables
to take on a seemingly simple
job. The task looks like an easy
paycheck for Barney and his
band of old-school mercenaries.
But when things go wrong
and one of their own is viciously
killed, the Expendables
are compelled to seek revenge
in hostile territory where the
odds are stacked against them.
- Lionsgate
Resident Evil:
Retribution
The Umbrella Corporation's
deadly T-virus continues to ravage
the earth, transforming the
global population into legions of
the flesh eating undead. The human
race's last and only hope,
Alice (Milla Jovovich), awakens
in the heart of Umbrella's most
clandestine operations facility
and unveils more of her mysterious
past as she delves further
into the complex. Without a
safe haven, Alice continues to
hunt those responsible for the
outbreak; a chase that takes
her from Tokyo to New York,
Washington DC and Moscow,
culminating in a mind-blowing
revelation that will force her
to rethink everything she once
thought to be true. Alice must
fight to survive long enough to
escape a hostile world on the
brink of oblivion. - Sony
Opening Dates
CINEMAS
M: Megastar Cinema
www.megastar.vn
G: Galaxy Cinema
www.galaxycine.vn
The Odd Life of Timothy Green (24 August)
Premium Rush (7 Sept.)
The Expendables 2 (7 Sept.)
Resident Evil: Retribution (21 Sept.)
The Expendables 2 (7 Sept.)
Resident Evil: Retribution (21 Sept.)
Premium Rush (28 Sept.)
The information on this page was
correct at the time of printing. Check
cinema websites for screenings.
86 asialife HCMC

ookshelf
Marilyn: The Passion and
the Paradox
Lois Banner
Bloomsbury
Fifty years after her death, Marilyn Monroe continues to
captivate. The blonde bombshell has inspired countless
biographies, films and Las Vegas impersonators. The icon
has been especially en vogue over the past year, with homage
paid in the film My Week with Marilyn, the US television
show Smash, and this recent biography by Lois Banner.
Marilyn: The Passion and the Paradox explores the actress’s
many contradictions, drawing from interviews and recently
discovered documents to provide new insight into the star’s
complicated life. The biography follows Marilyn from her
troubled childhood and early years as Norma Jean, on to her
sensational Hollywood career, her personal relationships
with husbands Joe DiMaggio and Arthur Miller, and the
murky circumstances surrounding her death.
Night Dancer
Chika Unigwe
Jonathan Cape
A Belgium-based Nigerian writer, Chika Unigwe is part
of an emerging wave of African women novelists. Her
third publication, Night Dancer, is narrated from the
perspectives of two women with different backgrounds.
Set in Nigeria during the 1970s, the first half follows Ezi,
a young, university-educated woman struggling to meet
expectations for a male heir. To the disappointment of her
in-laws, she becomes pregnant with a daughter. When her
husband’s affair with the maid, Rapu, produces a son, Ezi’s
position within the family is threatened. She decides to
leave her husband and raise her child alone, facing intense
stigma from her family and community. The second part of
the book follows Rapu’s own struggles to rise, mirroring
Ezi’s fall.
The Price of
Inequality
Joseph E Stiglitz
W.W. Norton & Company
In response to the notion that inequality is inevitable, Joseph
E Stiglitz begs to differ. The Nobel laureate economist
deviates from a purely economic lens to understanding the
shape of our world and considering the impact of politics.
As the gap between rich and poor widens, Stiglitz sees that
“while there may be underlying economic forces at play,
politics have shaped the market, and shaped it in ways that
advantage the top at the expense of the rest.” In his view,
inequality serves to weaken democracy, as well as create
fissures in economy and society when potential is limited by
lack of opportunity. Change, Stiglitz argues, can be achieved
when equal competition in the free market is safeguarded by
government oversight.
Vladimir Nabokov:
Selected Poems
Vladimir Nabokov
Knopf
Known best for Lolita and Pale Fire amongst other literary
feats, Vladimir Nabokov is considered one of the great
modern novelists. Less is known about his ventures into
poetry. This collection features selected poems translated
from Nabokov’s native Russian as well as 23 pieces
originally written in English. The earliest piece comes from
1914, when the writer was only 15 years old. Ever erudite,
Nabokov writes poetry with the same attention to structure
and depth as can be seen in his novels. In The Poem he
seems to encapsulate his own style of poetry: “In the tangle
of sounds, the leopards of words, the leaf-like insects, the
eye-spotted birds fuse and form a silent, intense, mimetic
pattern of perfect sense.”
asialife HCMC 87

Dana Filek-Gibson learns to choose her words carefully.
Everyone makes mistakes. If
you are at all like me, this is a
fact of which we do not need
to be reminded, though people
constantly do so as they usher
me out of their house and point
to where I should have left my
shoes. At least once a week, I eat
in public and my chopsticks fall
to the plate, criss-crossing each
other in some rude formation.
Only after I sigh and say, “Well,
fingers crossed, you know?” do
I realise the gesture I'm making
is lewd and inappropriate. On
average, I am offensive at least
four times a day.
This is nothing to be proud
of. While I am grateful to those
who excuse my cultural faux
pas, many of us expats strive
to blend in as best we can. Our
credibility as local residents is
weakened when we present
a gift unwrapped or beckon
someone much older than us
with an “em oi!” Getting the
hang of local culture can be
tedious. Just when you think
you're fitting in, you accept
your change one-handed and
the salesperson before you rolls
her eyes, unimpressed.
For the most part, Annie had
it figured out. In the nearly two
years she lived in Vietnam, my
friend and fellow teacher mastered
most of the ins and outs
every foreigner must learn. She
drank beer with ice, had a decent
knowledge of Saigon news,
and use chopsticks like a local.
In the end, after a few mishaps
with the neighbourhood xe om
drivers, she even gave in and
got a motorbike. Annie had become
as comfortable in Vietnam
as she was in her home country
— most of the time, anyway.
Later, I will tell Annie,
“It could have happened to
anyone.” But right now, sitting
across from each other on the
shaded veranda of a coffee shop
and nursing cups of ca phe sua
da, I watch her fingers trace the
edge of her glass. She looks at
me, a grave expression on her
face.
“I did something bad.”
“What?” I ask.
Before she can answer, a
nervous laugh escapes. It is not
often that I see Annie flustered.
“You know the name ...” There
is a deliberate pause here. She
considers the coming word: “...
Hiep?”
I nod. “I have a Hiep in
class.”
Her eyes go wide. “How do
you say it?”
In my best Vietnamese I
repeat the word, even spell it
on a serviette lying on the table.
Annie exhales and fidgets in her
seat, smoothing the wrinkles
from her dress. “Apparently,
I've been saying it wrong.”
“How have you been saying
it?” I ask.
Several minutes and a great
deal of coaxing later, an explanation
arrives. For months, my
friend has inadvertently been
calling her student 'rape’. The
pupil, too polite to correct her,
only recently decided to speak
up.
Through a fit of giggles, I reassure
her. But Annie continues,
mortified, “And then there's
this other student.” Turns out
Ms Loan, too, had been meaning
to say something. During
lessons, Annie does not call
Loan's name but rather a swear
word, which she repeats loudly
and often.
Eventually, my laughter
subsides and I sear this moment
into my memory, so my students
might be spared the same
experience.
88 asialife HCMC

This Country Life
Marriage brings some much-needed celebration to those
living in the sticks. Walter Pearson breaks down a typical
countryside wedding.
“Marriage,” Peter Cook said
as the bishop in the hilarious
movie The Princess Bride, “Marriage
is what brings us together
today.” Indeed, marriage often
brings us together in the bush.
And I love it.
Marriage, or more specifically,
the wedding festival surrounding
marriage, sometimes
goes on for more than three
days. Fortunately for an old
bloke like me, not continuously
for three days. Marriage
festivities usually go something
like this:
The first day is the preparation
for the ‘Girl’s Day’. The
night before, the marquee is
set up outside the father of the
bride’s house just before dark.
This is done with stunning efficiency.
It includes steel forms,
canvas roof, frilly decorations
around the outside, circular
stainless steel tables each surrounded
by 10 red plastic stools,
the stage and, most importantly
the sound system, which is
capable of a sound only slightly
louder than a space shuttle
launch. Naturally, the completion
requires a celebration.
Most of the guests invited to
the Girl’s Day turn up, but not
everyone gets an invite to both
the Girl’s Day and the 'Boy’s
Day'. The Girl’s Day invitees
are usually her family and
friends and of course the bridegroom
and his close family
members. The music is cranked
up, the beer flows, a few bottles
of rice whisky come out, food
appears and it’s party time.
The Girl’s Day takes place on
the second day. This is pretty
straightforward. Guests arrive
and are met by the lucky couple
at the entrance at the set time,
11am is preferred where we
live. This means you can write
off the day by getting really
drunk really quickly and then
head back home to sit around
on the floor and drink rice
whisky, a process called in the
vernacular nhau. The first time
I went to one of these days I
mistakenly thought it was the
wedding. The bride and bridegroom
have the full outfits on
and everyone gets dressed up
and they seriously party.
There is always an MC and
a keyboard player. The MC has
the same pattern every time. It’s
just a matter of changing the
names to implicate the guilty.
The MC starts off as soon as
most of the guests are seated
with the usual, “With your
permission and with no further
ado we’ll start the program.”
He or she will then go and
explain that Mr and Mrs (the
bride’s parents) have invited
us here on this day to celebrate
the bringing together of their
daughter with the son of Mr
and Mrs (the groom’s parents)
and the joining of these two
families through this nuptial.
Then the bride’s parents are
introduced and go up onto the
stage. The groom’s parents are
then introduced along with a
representative who speaks on
behalf of the family.
Finally, ladies and gentlemen,
we give you (fanfare at
8.6 on the Richter scale) the
bride and groom. Sound the
Bridal March, and the bride and
groom enter. A table may applaud.
Everyone keeps eating
and drinking and talking and
one, two, three, vo-ing. Loud
explosions and confetti — or
the Vietnamese version of it
— fills the air. Roman candles
shower sparks over the bridal
party and place the safety of
150 people in jeopardy. Everyone
keeps eating and drinking
and talking and one, two, three,
vo-ing.
The bride’s father speaks
and, like every speech by the
father of the bride, it is predictable
and clichéd. The groom’s
family representative replies
and everyone keeps eating and
drinking and talking and one,
two, three, vo-ing. Then the
bride and groom and both sets
of mums and dads start the
trawl around the tables having
their photo taken with all the
guests. When they get to our
table we one, two, three, vo,
smile for the camera and go
back to eating.
After exactly two hours of
eating and drinking and talking
the guests move as one for the
door, bid farewell to the lucky
couple, stagger to their bikes
and head home. The bride and
groom separate. No sleeping
together tonight. They’re still
not married.
asialife HCMC 89

pub quiz
Wine
1) Which ‘new’ red wine is
released for sale on the third
Thursday in November?
2) Traditionally, German wines
from the Rheinhessen are sold
in brown bottles. In what colour
bottles are wines from the
Mosel region sold?
3) In which country is the winegrowing
Barossa Valley?
4) Wines from Italy are sometimes
sold in a fiasco. What is it?
5) Which country is South
America’s largest wine
producer?
Spirits
6) Which spirit derives its
predominant flavour from
juniper berries?
7) What is the best selling Irish
whisky in the world?
8) According to a CNN article,
Jinro Soju is the world’s best
selling brand of liquor. In what
country is it produced?
9) Which Greek spirit was the first
to be consumed in space?
10) Originally drunk in the navy,
what spirit is found in grog?
Fruits
11) How are Fleegle, Bingo,
Drooper and Snorky better
known?
12) Who played Daphne in Some
Like it Hot?
13) Where would you go to have
your custom-made motorbike
built by the Teutul family?
14) Grenadine, found in many
cocktails, was originally
made from the juice of which
fruit?
15) Which fruit was given its
name by missionaries,
because parts of the flower
seem reminiscent of the
torture of Christ prior to his
crucifixion?
Vegetables
16) Which American producer is
best known for his work on
James Bond films?
17) What two vegetables are
the main ingredients in Aloo
Gobi?
18) Which vegetable gets
its Australian and North
American name from the
Italian for small pumpkin?
19. The US Department for
Agriculture stated in 2005
that this vegetable, gram for
gram, contains more iron
than an average hamburger
patty.
20) Which vegetable takes its
English name from the Latin
word for root?
Connected
21) Which film starred Al Pacino
as Tony Montana?
22) In which city did the first
competitive football match
of the 2012 Olympics take
place?
23) What is the second longest
mountain range in Europe,
with more than half of it in
Romania?
24) In which body of water are
the Cayman Islands?
25) What is the largest coastal
town in North Yorkshire,
made famous in a song?
Celebrities
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
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Pub Quiz Answers
1) Beaujolais Nouveau 2) Green 3) Australia 4) A straw basket around the
bottle 5) Argentina 6) Gin 7) Jameson 8) South Korea 9) Metaxa 10) Rum
11) The Banana Splits 12) Jack Lemmon 13) Orange County (New York) 14)
Pomegranate 15) Passion Fruit 16) Albert (Cubby) Broccoli 17) Potato and
Cauliflower 18) Zucchini 19) Spinach 20) Radish 21) Scarface 22) Cardiff 23)
Carpathians 24) Caribbean Sea 25) Scarborough 26) Bogart and Johansonn
27) Laurie and Bergman 28) Cooper and Roberts 29) Cruise and Wayne 30)
Hepburn and Downey Jr
90 asialife HCMC