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Spring-Summer Pure Jersey Part 1 with adverts:jersey Cover AW

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The Car-Free<br />

Challenge<br />

GRÈVE DE LECQ<br />

SEE THE ISLAND BY BUS ST AUBIN ST BRELADE’S BAY<br />

How easy is it to get around <strong>Jersey</strong> the by bus? Roger Thomas, whose previous<br />

experiences of public transport left him lukewarm to the idea, finds out.<br />

They mightn’t go down <strong>Jersey</strong>’s<br />

specially designated ‘Green Lanes’ –<br />

those narrow country roads where<br />

traffic is discouraged and walkers and<br />

cyclists are welcomed – but the island’s<br />

‘green’ transport network gets you just<br />

about everywhere else. I’m talking about<br />

the pale-blue (should that be green?)<br />

Connex buses you see everywhere in<br />

<strong>Jersey</strong>. And I mean everywhere.<br />

It came as something of a culture shock. I<br />

live in a part of the UK where buses are so<br />

rare they’re on the endangered species list<br />

and trains are about as reliable as a<br />

politician’s promise. Then, on my first visit<br />

to the island, I took a drive out to the<br />

island’s rugged north coast, a peaceful area<br />

lightly populated by scattered hamlets and<br />

small villages. To my amazement I saw at<br />

least five buses before giving up the count.<br />

They obviously work well for the locals. But<br />

are they a feasible way of getting around the<br />

island for visitors? Do they take you to<br />

where you want to go? And do you still need<br />

a car? I decided to road test the system.<br />

10.15am, St Helier<br />

I buy an Island Explorer unlimited travel day<br />

ticket and set off on the ‘blue’ route. A<br />

quick word of explanation is needed here.<br />

<strong>Jersey</strong> is latticed <strong>with</strong> bus routes. The<br />

Island Explorer scheme, aimed at visitors,<br />

rationalises most of them into four<br />

interconnecting services designated blue,<br />

red, yellow and green. These also link up<br />

<strong>with</strong> more local, ‘off-piste’ routes to<br />

obscure nooks and crannies, giving –<br />

theoretically – impressive pan-island<br />

coverage. I’m about to find out how it all<br />

works on the ground – or rather in the bus.<br />

There’s not a seat to be found on the bus as<br />

we drive west along St Aubin’s Bay then up<br />

over the wooded headland to St Brelade’s<br />

Bay, a smaller version of St Aubin’s. The<br />

sands at sheltered, south-facing St<br />

Brelade’s curl round in a delicious crescent<br />

and I can’t resist a walk on the beach. So I<br />

hop off the bus and do just that, followed<br />

by a cappuccino on the terrace of a beach<br />

café in the morning sun.<br />

11.34am, St Brelade’s Bay<br />

Here’s the next bus, right on time. This is<br />

already turning into a grand sightseeing<br />

tour of <strong>Jersey</strong>’s iconic sites as the bus does<br />

a little loop of the Corbière peninsula taking<br />

in the famous lighthouse (and, as if stagemanaged<br />

by <strong>Jersey</strong> Tourism, some caramelcoloured<br />

<strong>Jersey</strong> cows munching<br />

contentedly in the fields), before running<br />

alongside St Ouen’s Bay. As we drive along<br />

its vast, west-facing beach I have<br />

grandstand views of dunes to my right and<br />

kitesurfers skipping over the waves to my<br />

left. Some passengers get off at <strong>Jersey</strong><br />

Pearl, a popular out-of-town shopping<br />

destination. I stay on board until we reach<br />

Grève de Lecq on the north coast. I’ve an<br />

hour to wait for the next bus, and I can’t<br />

think of a better place on the island in<br />

which to while away 60 minutes.<br />

Grève de Lecq is impossibly pretty. It ticks<br />

all the seaside boxes for me – a quayside,<br />

rich red sands, swooping green headland,<br />

more of those delightful <strong>Jersey</strong> beach cafés<br />

and – as a bonus for all classic machinery<br />

freaks (me included) – a collection of<br />

ancient tractors in various shades of rust<br />

and red, still going strong hauling fishing<br />

boats off the beach.<br />

There’s another bonus too. By accident I’ve<br />

stumbled across a refreshment stop for the<br />

annual around-island charity walk that<br />

started in St Helier at 3am. It’s 48 miles in<br />

total and Grève de Lecq is just over halfway.<br />

‘My knees are starting to play up and I’ve<br />

got a few blisters,’ says one remarkably<br />

upbeat participant. Like the rest, she was<br />

determined to make the finish at 8pm.<br />

1.17pm, Grève de Lecq<br />

Confusion and commotion! The timetable<br />

isn’t that difficult to fathom but the arrival<br />

of a few buses close together has sent<br />

some Island Explorers into a spin. Our bus<br />

driver cheerily reassures worried<br />

passengers. ‘Would anyone else like me to<br />

plan their holiday?’ he asks <strong>with</strong> a grin. ‘I<br />

thought you’d have this all worked out<br />

before you got on the bus.’<br />

42 pure<strong>Jersey</strong> 1 book online at www.<strong>jersey</strong>.com 43

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