on TAIPEI Kil'n time in Taipei - Community Services Center
on TAIPEI Kil'n time in Taipei - Community Services Center
on TAIPEI Kil'n time in Taipei - Community Services Center
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While <strong>Taipei</strong><br />
with dense soup stock,<br />
may arguably<br />
typically <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g lamb,<br />
images: dirk diestel<br />
b e t h e w o r l d<br />
t h e d i s h i s w h a t m a n y<br />
capital of Ch<strong>in</strong>ese<br />
foreigners associate with<br />
food, <strong>on</strong>e variety of that esteemed<br />
western Ch<strong>in</strong>ese cuis<strong>in</strong>e. Q<strong>in</strong> Wei<br />
cuis<strong>in</strong>e is strangely difficult to f<strong>in</strong>d amidst<br />
Guan offers pao mo, but for me, the<br />
the city’s profusi<strong>on</strong> of d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g opti<strong>on</strong>s. Sichuan,<br />
roast pork ( 炙 子 骨 排 ) is the menu’s real signature<br />
Shangha<strong>in</strong>ese, Cant<strong>on</strong>ese, and Beij<strong>in</strong>g opti<strong>on</strong>s abound, but dish. Infused with a tantaliz<strong>in</strong>g bouquet of herbs, the<br />
foodies may have a relatively hard <strong>time</strong> sat<strong>in</strong>g an urge for pork is roasted until it reaches a crescendo of tenderness.<br />
Shanxi fare. Enlivened with Central Asian <strong>in</strong>fluences, the The succulent tang of the f<strong>in</strong>al product almost caresses<br />
cuis<strong>in</strong>e of Ch<strong>in</strong>a’s west is renowned for its hearty noodles, the t<strong>on</strong>gue. The menu’s many other worthwhile choices<br />
dense flatbreads, complex spicy and sour seas<strong>on</strong><strong>in</strong>gs, and <strong>in</strong>clude fried potatoes with sour v<strong>in</strong>egar ( 酸 嗆 土 豆 絲 ),<br />
the liberal use of lamb. Tucked beh<strong>in</strong>d an unassum<strong>in</strong>g sautéed cabbage with shredded pork ( 嗆 肉 高 麗 ), and<br />
façade off lively Yanji Street, Q<strong>in</strong> Wei Guan is an ideal ‘tender’ tofu ( 虎 皮 會 ), fried to a crispy golden brown<br />
opti<strong>on</strong> for mak<strong>in</strong>g – or renew<strong>in</strong>g – an acqua<strong>in</strong>tance with and seas<strong>on</strong>ed with green chili. Despite the abundance<br />
this underrepresented example of Ch<strong>in</strong>ese cook<strong>in</strong>g. of chili and other str<strong>on</strong>g flavors, subtle and dist<strong>in</strong>ctive<br />
Stuffed with a profusi<strong>on</strong> of round tables, Q<strong>in</strong> Wei comb<strong>in</strong>ati<strong>on</strong>s ensure that the dishes d<strong>on</strong>’t overwhelm each<br />
Guan has two d<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g rooms. Rustic stucco walls are other – or the d<strong>in</strong>er.<br />
enlivened with the graffiti of past patr<strong>on</strong>s and accented by Shanxi desserts are a revelati<strong>on</strong>. Start with he tao lao<br />
traditi<strong>on</strong>al Shanxi handicrafts. Service is almost motherly, ( 核 桃 酪 ), a refresh<strong>in</strong>gly cool walnut and dairy soup that<br />
with bustl<strong>in</strong>g waitresses whisk<strong>in</strong>g out small plates of cleanses the palate after the ma<strong>in</strong> meal’s <strong>on</strong>slaught of<br />
crispy snacks to get you started. Note that a few English seas<strong>on</strong><strong>in</strong>gs. Next, tuck <strong>in</strong>to a freshly baked M<strong>on</strong>golian<br />
menus are available up<strong>on</strong> request.<br />
fried cheese tart ( 蒙 古 炸 奶 豆 腐 ). Dusted with powdered<br />
Try to enjoy Q<strong>in</strong> Wei Guan with a group, so that sugar, the tart’s crisp coco<strong>on</strong> of dough cradles a ribb<strong>on</strong><br />
you can sample as many different dishes as possible. of soft cheese. A remarkable balanc<strong>in</strong>g of textures and<br />
Although specialties such as feng su ji ( 風 酥 雞 ), or deepfried<br />
chicken with spices, should be ordered two days <strong>in</strong> Whether it’s lunch or d<strong>in</strong>ner, Q<strong>in</strong> Wei Guan is<br />
flavors, the tart is a perfect way to culm<strong>in</strong>ate your meal.<br />
advance, leftovers may be available<br />
always packed. Reservati<strong>on</strong>s are<br />
<strong>on</strong> the spot, so ask if you’r e<br />
def<strong>in</strong>itely required, and call<strong>in</strong>g<br />
<strong>in</strong>terested. You po noodles ( 油 潑 麵 )<br />
to book a table at the last m<strong>in</strong>ute<br />
are better known by their nickname,<br />
risks disappo<strong>in</strong>tment. Prices are<br />
which translates as ‘belt noodles’ ( 腰<br />
moderate, with most appetizers <strong>in</strong><br />
帶 麵 ). The m<strong>on</strong>iker should give you<br />
the NT$120-180 range, and the<br />
an idea of these rugged c<strong>on</strong>cocti<strong>on</strong>s.<br />
bulk of the entrees priced between<br />
Slathered with red chili oil, they<br />
NT$260 and NT$390. Bottled<br />
almost do look str<strong>on</strong>g enough to<br />
or draft Taiwan Beer is the <strong>on</strong>ly<br />
strap around your waist. They’re<br />
alcohol available. Major credit<br />
better off <strong>in</strong> your mouth, however,<br />
cards accepted.<br />
where you can experience the rich<br />
flavors to full effect. In c<strong>on</strong>trast, the<br />
‘egg meal’ ( 秦 味 蛋 飯 ) is a creamy<br />
blend of rice, eggs, and tender baby<br />
bok choi. Pla<strong>in</strong> old white rice seems<br />
unbearably bland <strong>in</strong> comparis<strong>on</strong>.<br />
If you’ve tried Shanxi food before,<br />
you’ve almost certa<strong>in</strong>ly had pao<br />
mo ( 泡 饃 ). Firm bread soaked<br />
Q<strong>in</strong> Wei Guan<br />
By Hanscom Smith<br />
Q<strong>in</strong> Wei Guan ( 秦 味 館 )<br />
2, Lane 138, Yanji Street<br />
( 延 吉 街 138 巷 2 號 )<br />
Tel: 02-8771-3288<br />
Hanscom Smith has lived <strong>in</strong> <strong>Taipei</strong><br />
s<strong>in</strong>ce 2006. In additi<strong>on</strong> to his<br />
native United States, he has lived<br />
(and eaten) <strong>in</strong> France, the United<br />
K<strong>in</strong>gdom, Camero<strong>on</strong>, Denmark,<br />
Cambodia, Thailand, and<br />
Afghanistan.<br />
june 2010<br />
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