iWalk 07 In the Steps of Ulysses - A self-guided ... - Visit Dublin

07
In the Steps
of Ulysses
A self-guided walking tour
iWalk
www.visitdublin.com

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to Dublin
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North Earl Street 4
No. 5 Parnell Square 4
Top of Parnell Square East 4
Eccles Street 5
St George’s Church 5
Belvedere College 5
North Great George’s Street 6
James Joyce Street 6
George’s Quay, Opposite
to the Custom House 6
The Sean O’Casey Bridge 7
Corner of Westland Row
and Pearse Street 7
Under the Railway Bridge 8
Inside St Andrew’s Church 8
Sweny’s Chemist 9
Leinster Street South 9
Davy Byrne’s Pub 9
Route Map 10

4
Stop 1: North Earl Street
The tour commences from the James Joyce Statue on North Earl
Street, just off O’Connell Street beside the Spire. Leopold Bloom’s
actual journey started from Eccles Street but on our fairly direct way
up to there you will pass some places associated with Joyce and
‘Ulysses’. If you want to go directly to Eccles Street you may pick up
a number 16 or 16A bus from O’Connell Street which will leave you
close to the intersection of Eccles Street and Dorset Street. Ask the
bus driver where to let you off. If you take the bus to Eccles Street
your tour will start from Stop No. 4.
Stop 2: No. 5 Parnell Square
Recommence walking up O’Connell Street heading towards the
Parnell Monument which commemorates one of Ireland’s great
19th century statesmen. Behind this monument and over to
the left is the classical edifice of the Rotunda Hospital, believed
to be the world’s first purpose-built maternity hospital. Cross
over Parnell Street and up Cavendish Row which continues into
Parnell Square, passing, on your left, the famous Gate Theatre
which was founded in 1928 in the former Grand Supper Room
of the Rotunda Hospital’s Assembly Rooms, originally built in
1786. Stop opposite number 5 Parnell Square.
Stop 3: Top of Parnell
Square East
Walk a short distance up to the top of the square and
pause for a few moments to look across at the Garden
of Remembrance and beyond it across to Parnell Square
West. Tucked in between the Abbey Presbyterian
Church and the Dublin City Gallery, the Hugh Lane,
is the renowned Writer’s Museum.

Stop 4: Eccles Street
Without further ado, you will make your way straight to
the next stop and the real starting point of this tour. Walk
straight up past the junction with Great Denmark Street,
continue along Frederick Street North and turn right
into Dorset Street Lower. Cross the road when you safely
can do so, continuing for 200 metres until you come to
Eccles Street and turn left. Cross over to the Mater Private
Hospital and stand in front of the plaque to the right of
the main door. This plaque has the head of James Joyce
sculptured onto it. This part of the journey should, on
average, take about 10 to 15 minutes.
5
Stop 5: St George’s Church
Walking down Eccles Street to the corner with Dorset Street
you can mirror Bloom’s journey. Before you cross over Dorset
Street make a short side trip to follow Bloom as he travels to
the butcher. He turned the corner at what is still a pub, but
then called Larry O’Rourke’s, and turned right to walk down
Dorset Street, passing over the pub’s grating (now a steel
trapdoor) from which floated up the flabby gush of porter.
On the right he passed the former St Joseph’s National School,
a dark red-bricked building with five bay windows. Finally
Bloom reaches a butcher’s window where he sees the last
kidney for sale, a pork kidney which oozed blood. (You won’t
find this shop as it never existed, one of the few fictitious
places Joyce refers to.) Now turn around and come back to the
corner again.
Let Bloom return home to give Molly her breakfast and have his own precious kidney, nearly burning
it in the process. The postman delivers a letter addressed to Molly from her lover, Blazes Boylan, and
Leopold leaves to travel to town to see if there is a letter for him at Westland Row Post Office from
Martha, a girl he’s never met but with whom he shares a romantic correspondence. Now cross over
the road and head directly along Hardwicke Place to the elegantly-spired church ahead.
Stop 6: Belvedere College
Walk down Temple Street and then turn right into
Great Denmark Street. Stop in front of a mansion-like
building which stands opposite to North Great George’s Street.
This is Belvedere College.

6
Stop 7: North Great George’s Street
Cross the road and walk down on the left side of North Great George’s Street
until you reach no No. 35.
Stop 8: James Joyce Street
You are still on a parallel but different route to Leopold Bloom but you will soon converge
on his original path. Proceed down to the bottom of North Great George’s Street, turn
left onto Parnell Street, cross Gardiner Street at the next junction and cross again to walk
down Gardiner Street on the left-hand side. You have now regained Bloom’s itinerary. You
can see what he saw and apart from some new apartment blocks the overall view is little
changed since 1904. The railway bridge still crosses the street obscuring the aspect to the
magnificent Custom House. Take the second left into Railway Street and right again into
James Joyce Street. Stop at the junction with Foley Street.
Stop 9: George’s Quay, Opposite
to the Custom House
Exit James Joyce Street, turn right up Talbot Street and left again to
regain Gardiner Street. With the help of pedestrian lights cross over a
series of junctions to gain the left-hand side of Beresford Place and walk
along by the boundary wall of the Custom House. Cross over the River
Liffey by way of Butt Bridge and turn left along by the river until you
reach opposite the classical pile of the Custom House.

7
Stop 10: The Sean O’Casey Bridge
Instead of going the direct route his journey meanders quite a bit, reflecting the confusions
within his own mind. Proceed down George’s Quay, go over the next bridge, the Matt
Talbot Bridge, and onto the campshire along City Quay. A campshire is the walking area
along by the riverfront where once the cranes hauled the goods from the holds of ships.
The ships are long gone to further downriver and the Campshires have been beautifully
upgraded. We presume Bloom walked along the opposite pavement but he certainly would
have chosen the campshire had he the choice. All the places that he passed on this section
of the journey are long gone including Leask’s the linseed crusher’s, the postal telegraph
office and the Sailors’ Home.
The morning noises on
the quayside Bloom heard
were the sounds of a busy
dockland, now also long gone,
replaced by container traffic
at a different location. When
you come to the modern
pedestrian bridge stop here
for a while, even walk onto
the bridge to take in the view.
Stop 11:
Corner of Westland Row and Pearse Street
Bloom’s rambles next took him into Lime Street. Nothing remains in this district from 1904
so we will take a short cut to catch up with Bloom again. Cross over from the bridge and stroll
up Lombard Street on the right-hand side. You will meet with Bloom after the junction with
Townsend Street. The frowning face of Bethel which was the Salvation Army Hostel, was at Nos.
19/20. The face no longer frowns as it has been replaced by a more modern reincarnation. Next
pass Nichols’ the undertakers at Nos. 26-31: not only is the building still there but so is Nichols’
itself, and probably not much changed since Bloom’s shadow fell on it. Bloom then went across
Great Brunswick Street – to you that is now called Pearse Street. Stand at the corner with Pearse
Street and Westland Row.

8
Stop 12: Under the Railway Bridge
Once he collected the letter from his lady friend by correspondence, Bloom put it
in his pocket and decided to pick a quiet place to read its contents. After his bad luck
in bumping into an acquaintance by the name of McCoy, he strolled back to Great
Brunswick Street modern day Pearse Street and turned right along the high station
wall. You may follow him by crossing Westland Row and proceeding down Pearse
Street. In Bloom’s day there was a vehicle ramp which led up to the station’s platforms
but it was demolished to make way for Goldsmith Hall, a lecture hall and residence
facility for Trinity College. There is no hackney or carriage rank here any more so you
won’t experience the sweet oaten reek of horsepiss that Bloom noticed as he passed
the parked horses. Turn into Cumberland Street and stand under the bridge where
Bloom stopped to read his letter surreptitiously.
Stop 13: Inside St Andrew’s Church
Bloom then went in through the backdoor of the church which he called All Hallows but is officially
known as St Andrews Roman Catholic Church. The backdoor is no longer open so you will open the
gate which is usually unlocked during the daytime and go along the side passage until you reach the
front of the church. If the church is closed then the gate will also be locked. In such a case walk around
to Westland Row by the way you came here in the first place. Enter the interior and savour what Joyce
describes as the cold smell of sacred stone.

Stop 15: Leinster Street South
Proceed along Lincoln Place towards Leinster Street South in the manner of Bloom who went
cheerfully towards the mosque of the baths redbaked bricks, the minarets. This description
accurately fits the Turkish Bath Company of 6-15 Lincoln Place, but this building was not in use
by 1904, so probably his destination was the Turkish and Warm Baths of 10 to 11 Leinster Street
South now just a dark-bricked and soulless-looking office block. He notes, as you can, the gates
of College Park which is a side entrance into Trinity College. Stop opposite to the where the
railings of Trinity College begin.
Stop 16: Davy Byrne’s Pub
This is where we will leave Joyce and Bloom for
now. Bloom, after his Turkish bath, takes a tram
to Sandymount, accompanies Dignam’s funeral to
Glasnevin Cemetery and on his return to town visits
his place of employment, the Freeman’s Journal. He
decides he needs to get a copy of an advertisement
from the Kilkenny People and makes his way to
consult it in the National Library. He journeys past
Trinity College, up Grafton Street and into Duke
Street and pops into Davy Byrne’s Pub for lunch.
This is where you are now headed for. After his lunch
Bloom visits the National Library, wanders up towards
Temple Bar and makes for the Ormond Hotel on
Ormond Quay. All of this and more will have to wait
for another day. For now walk along Leinster Street
South and continue where it becomes Nassau Street
and turn left into Dawson Street, taking the first turn
to the right which is Duke Street. A little more than
halfway down on the left is Davy Byrnes.
Stop 14: Sweny’s
Chemist
9
When you are ready to leave the
prayerful atmosphere of St Andrews,
walk up Westland Row. Pause opposite
number 21, a house on the right-hand
side with a plaque on the wall. This
was the birthplace in 1854 of another
of Dublin’s famous writers and wits,
Oscar Wilde. When you reach the top of
the street observe a chemist’s shop or
pharmacy which stands directly facing
you. This is Sweny’s Chemist.

CRANE LANE
10
Eccles Street
iWalk
route map
GRANGE GORMAN
BRUNSWICK STREET NORTH
CHURCH STREET
CONSTITUTION HILL
North Great
George’s Street
No. 5 Parnell Square
James Joyce Street
Belvedere College
Top of
Parnell Square East
St George’s Church
KING’SS INN ST.
DOMINICK LANE
BOLTON STREET DORSET STREET
LOFTUS LANE
GRANBY LANE
DOMINICK PLACE
DOMINICK STREET
03
PARNELL STREET
FRED
PARNEL
PARNE
KING STREET NORTH
North Earl Street
QUEEN STREET
SMITHFIELD
BOW STREET
George’s Quay
JERVIS LANE
CAPEL STREET
WOLFE TONE STREET
MARY STREET
JERVIS STREET
ABBEY STREET UPPER
PHOENIX ST. HAMMOND
ARRAN QUAY
The Sean O’Casey Bridge
CHURCH STREET
STRAND STREET GREAT
ORMOND QUAY LOWE
MILLENIUM
BRIDGE
PARLIAMENT STREET
THOMAS STREET
HANBURY LANE
EARL ST. SOUTH
PIMLICO
MEATH
USHERS QUAY
OLIVER BOND COOK STREET
MEATH STREET
WEST
SWIFT’S ALLEY
ASH STREET
BRIDGE ST.
CORN MARKET
THOMAS DAVIS
FRANCIS STREET
INNS QUAY
Under the Railway Bridge
MERCHANTS QUAY
HIGH STREET
RACK LANE
DILLON ST.
HANNOVER
ICK STREET
WINE TAVERN STREET
Corner of Westland Row
and Pearse Street
Inside St Andrew’s Church
NICHOLAS ST.
ROSS RD.
BRIDE RD.
BULL ALLEY
ST.
PATRICK’S
Davy Byrne’s Pub
BRIDE ST
SHIP ST.
CHANCERY RD
Leinster Street South
GOLDEN LANE
WHITEFRIAR
ESSEX STREET
WELLINGTO
SYCAMORE ST
DAME LA
STREET
EUSTACE ST.
Sweny’s Chemist

DAME COURT
CROWN AL
CROW ST
TEMPLE LANE
ASDILL’S
ROW
BEDFORD
ROW
NORTH
04
11
05
TEMPLE STREET
GARDINER PLACE
ERICK STREET
L SQ. NTH
LL SQ. WEST
GRANBY PL
06
PARNELL SQ. EAST
GARDINER ROW
NTH GT GEORGES ST
02
07
PARNELL STREET
HILL STREET
GARDINER STREET UPPER
MARLBOROUGH STREET
GRENVILLE ST
TEMPLE LANE
CUMBERLANS ST NORTH
SUMMERHILL
SEAN McDERMOTT STREET
GARDINER STREET LOWER
KILLARNEY STREET
THOMAS LANE
R
NE
LIFFEY STREET
N QUAY
SAMPSON’S LANE
FOWNES ST
MOORE STREET
HA’PENNY
BRIDGE
TEMPLE BAR
DAME STREET
COPE ST
TRINITY ST.
EXCHEQUER ST.
MOORE LANE
HENRY STREET
ANGLESEA ST.
LITTON
LANE
HENRY PLACE
BEDFORD LA
FOSTER PLACE
O’CONNELL STREET
ABBEY STREET MIDDLE
ST ANDREWS LA
PRINCES STREET
LOTTS ROW
ASTON PLACE
WICKLOW ST
PRICES LANE
FLEET STREET
CATHEDRAL ST
O’CONNELL ST
SUFFOLK ST
EARL ST.
WESTMORELAND ST
EARL PLACE
SACKVILLE PL.
D’OLIER ST
ABBEY STREET LOWER
BACHELORS WALKEDEN QUAY
ST. ANDREW ST.
01
ASTON QUAY
COLLEGE GREEN
BURGH QUAY
HAWKINS ST
COLLEGE STREET
TALBOT STREET TALBOT STREET
ABBEY ST OLD
POOLBEG STREET
TARA ST
TRINITY
COLLEGE
LUKE STREET
TOWNSEND STREET
FRENCHMANS LANE
STORE ST
CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY
RIVER LIFFEY
09
GEORGES QUAY
PEARSE STREET
08
BERESFORD PLACE
MOSS STREET
TALBOT PLACE
STORE ST.
AMIEN STREET
CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY
CITY QUAY
11
13
WESTLAND ROW LOMBARD STREET
PEARSE STREET
12
SHERIFF STREET
10
SANDWITH STREET
COMMONS STREET
CASTLE
MARKET
CLARENDON STREET
BALFE ST
JOHNSTON CT
HARRY ST
LEMON ST
SOUTH ANNE ST
GRAFTON STREET
ANNE’S LANE
GRAFTON ARCADE
DUKE STREET
DUKE LANE
16
ROYAL
HIBERNIAN
WAY
DAWSON STREET
NASSAU STREET LEINSTER ST
FREDERICK ST
MOLESWORTH ST
15
LINCOLN PL
CLARE ST
14
EET

We hope that you enjoyed this walk
which was narrated by its author,
Pat Liddy, who may be visited on his
website www.walkingtours.ie and
brought to you by Fáilte Ireland on
www.visitdublin.com
For the latest updates on walking
tours of Dublin, check out our website:
www.visitdublin.com/iwalks
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© The copyright for this text is owned by Pat Liddy and such copyright has been asserted
by him. He has made this text available to be exclusively used by Fáilte Ireland.
FI-22493-13