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ANDREW - Origlio Beverage

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CoverSTORY<br />

Lager: The Undiscovered Country<br />

by Lew Bryson<br />

WE LIVE IN LAGER LAND. HERE IN PENNSYLVANIA,<br />

Yuengling Lager is ubiquitous, which has created a beer<br />

landscape unlike any other in the country. If I walk into<br />

any bar and call out “Lager!” I’ll have a cold amber glass in under<br />

a minute, no questions asked…except maybe, “Draught or bottle?”<br />

And yet… “lager” means so much more than Dick Yuengling’s tasty<br />

and very successful beer. Because here in Pennsylvania, we also live<br />

in Craft Lager Land. We are blessed with a concentration of some of<br />

the best lager-making craft brewers in the country, like Sly Fox and<br />

Samuel Adams – made just up the road in the Lehigh Valley. And<br />

we have always been a thirsty market for lagers from all over the<br />

world: Germany, of course, but also Canada, Holland, the Czech<br />

Republic, Mexico, Japan, Poland… we like cold-brewed beer!<br />

But you’d never know it if you asked most “alpha beer geeks.”<br />

They tend to dismiss lagers, largely because the mainstream brands<br />

they loudly disrespect are all lagers. Silly beer geeks. That’s like<br />

dismissing crisp baguettes and tangy sourdough because you think<br />

Wonder Bread is soft and bland. They feel if it’s not an IPA, if it’s not<br />

wildly aromatic and stuffed with hops, it ain’t craft!<br />

Speak softly to these people, and hand them a glass of Sly Fox<br />

Pikeland Pils. The bountiful Noble hop aroma will suck them in,<br />

the bright effervescence will excite them, and the clean malt<br />

body will have them reaching for another before they even<br />

realize it’s a lager! Got a big-beer geek? Hit them right<br />

between the eyes with a Heavy Seas Small Craft Warning<br />

Über Pils; a big and beefy pilsner, yet rounded and<br />

straightforward as only a lager can be. Bang!<br />

That’s when you can take a moment to remind them that<br />

lagers are harder to make than ales. As one lager<br />

brewer said to me, “Ales! I could teach a chimp to<br />

make ales. I brew lagers.” He was exaggerating, but lagers are<br />

much less forgiving of errors. The cold maturation takes three to four<br />

times as long as ales, and lager’s straightforward and clean nature<br />

means that a brewer has nowhere to hide.<br />

All true, and it all adds up to lagers being more expensive to make.<br />

They need more care with their yeast strains which means more lab<br />

equipment and more time for yeast cultures to grow. Some lagers<br />

use a decoction mashing process. It’s too involved to explain, but<br />

it takes more energy. The cold maturation means more energy for<br />

chilling the tanks, and the longer maturation time means<br />

brewers need to buy (and maintain, and plumb, and find<br />

space for) more tanks to put out the same amount of beer.<br />

But the hard part is that they can’t really charge more to<br />

cover those costs; the consumer doesn’t see them. Craft<br />

lager brewers are a stubborn lot who really do it more for<br />

love than money!<br />

Is it worth it? I absolutely believe so, and I try to introduce<br />

people to great lagers all the time. Despite the notion that<br />

lagers are bland, or too<br />

simple, or not hoppy; that<br />

one just makes me laugh.<br />

There are lagers that can<br />

go toe-to-toe with ales.<br />

Let’s have a look.<br />

Do you have a hophead?<br />

Have them try a brilliant<br />

beer like Zatec Bright Lager,<br />

buzzing with Czech hop<br />

aroma; or the new Samuel<br />

Adams Double Agent IPL, a cloud of<br />

citrusy West Coast hop scents floating<br />

over a clean, bitter lager.<br />

Does your geek like stouts and<br />

porters? Dunkel is the word, and<br />

Sly Fox makes a great one: dark,<br />

aromatic, and flavorful malts<br />

combine with lager’s classic<br />

smooth drinkability. Or try a classic<br />

from a German brewer: Ayinger<br />

Altbairisch Dunkel, a rippling river of<br />

toasty sweet malt, so flavorful and<br />

friendly; a great introduction for those<br />

who are afraid of the dark.<br />

Lager’s got the big beer drinker covered,<br />

too. Warm up with Ayinger Celebrator<br />

Doppelbock, with its muscle-flexing 6.7%<br />

ABV. Move on up to the original double<br />

bock, Paulaner Salvator, the first of the<br />

breed, at a maltilicious “liquid<br />

bread” strength of 7.9%. Double<br />

bocks are warming and filling,<br />

with a broad, complex palette of<br />

malt flavor.<br />

And lager’s got something ale<br />

doesn’t, one of the most popular<br />

seasonal beers in the world: the<br />

beer of Oktoberfest, the malty<br />

amber beauty also known as Märzen.<br />

Heavy Seas makes a great one, as does<br />

Sly Fox, and you can also get the German<br />

imports from Munich brewers Hacker-<br />

Pschorr, Spaten and Paulaner. Nothing can<br />

beat their hearty malt character for pairing<br />

with a wide variety of food: pizza, chicken,<br />

sausage, cheese, noodles and roast pork.<br />

They go pretty well with tuba music, too!<br />

Lagers are an underappreciated segment<br />

of craft beer, and for that to be true in<br />

America’s craft lager heartland is just a<br />

shame. Let’s get some lager love going!<br />

www.origlio.com HeadyTimes v.73 1

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