ANDREW - Origlio Beverage
ANDREW - Origlio Beverage
ANDREW - Origlio Beverage
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
CoverSTORY<br />
Lager: The Undiscovered Country<br />
by Lew Bryson<br />
WE LIVE IN LAGER LAND. HERE IN PENNSYLVANIA,<br />
Yuengling Lager is ubiquitous, which has created a beer<br />
landscape unlike any other in the country. If I walk into<br />
any bar and call out “Lager!” I’ll have a cold amber glass in under<br />
a minute, no questions asked…except maybe, “Draught or bottle?”<br />
And yet… “lager” means so much more than Dick Yuengling’s tasty<br />
and very successful beer. Because here in Pennsylvania, we also live<br />
in Craft Lager Land. We are blessed with a concentration of some of<br />
the best lager-making craft brewers in the country, like Sly Fox and<br />
Samuel Adams – made just up the road in the Lehigh Valley. And<br />
we have always been a thirsty market for lagers from all over the<br />
world: Germany, of course, but also Canada, Holland, the Czech<br />
Republic, Mexico, Japan, Poland… we like cold-brewed beer!<br />
But you’d never know it if you asked most “alpha beer geeks.”<br />
They tend to dismiss lagers, largely because the mainstream brands<br />
they loudly disrespect are all lagers. Silly beer geeks. That’s like<br />
dismissing crisp baguettes and tangy sourdough because you think<br />
Wonder Bread is soft and bland. They feel if it’s not an IPA, if it’s not<br />
wildly aromatic and stuffed with hops, it ain’t craft!<br />
Speak softly to these people, and hand them a glass of Sly Fox<br />
Pikeland Pils. The bountiful Noble hop aroma will suck them in,<br />
the bright effervescence will excite them, and the clean malt<br />
body will have them reaching for another before they even<br />
realize it’s a lager! Got a big-beer geek? Hit them right<br />
between the eyes with a Heavy Seas Small Craft Warning<br />
Über Pils; a big and beefy pilsner, yet rounded and<br />
straightforward as only a lager can be. Bang!<br />
That’s when you can take a moment to remind them that<br />
lagers are harder to make than ales. As one lager<br />
brewer said to me, “Ales! I could teach a chimp to<br />
make ales. I brew lagers.” He was exaggerating, but lagers are<br />
much less forgiving of errors. The cold maturation takes three to four<br />
times as long as ales, and lager’s straightforward and clean nature<br />
means that a brewer has nowhere to hide.<br />
All true, and it all adds up to lagers being more expensive to make.<br />
They need more care with their yeast strains which means more lab<br />
equipment and more time for yeast cultures to grow. Some lagers<br />
use a decoction mashing process. It’s too involved to explain, but<br />
it takes more energy. The cold maturation means more energy for<br />
chilling the tanks, and the longer maturation time means<br />
brewers need to buy (and maintain, and plumb, and find<br />
space for) more tanks to put out the same amount of beer.<br />
But the hard part is that they can’t really charge more to<br />
cover those costs; the consumer doesn’t see them. Craft<br />
lager brewers are a stubborn lot who really do it more for<br />
love than money!<br />
Is it worth it? I absolutely believe so, and I try to introduce<br />
people to great lagers all the time. Despite the notion that<br />
lagers are bland, or too<br />
simple, or not hoppy; that<br />
one just makes me laugh.<br />
There are lagers that can<br />
go toe-to-toe with ales.<br />
Let’s have a look.<br />
Do you have a hophead?<br />
Have them try a brilliant<br />
beer like Zatec Bright Lager,<br />
buzzing with Czech hop<br />
aroma; or the new Samuel<br />
Adams Double Agent IPL, a cloud of<br />
citrusy West Coast hop scents floating<br />
over a clean, bitter lager.<br />
Does your geek like stouts and<br />
porters? Dunkel is the word, and<br />
Sly Fox makes a great one: dark,<br />
aromatic, and flavorful malts<br />
combine with lager’s classic<br />
smooth drinkability. Or try a classic<br />
from a German brewer: Ayinger<br />
Altbairisch Dunkel, a rippling river of<br />
toasty sweet malt, so flavorful and<br />
friendly; a great introduction for those<br />
who are afraid of the dark.<br />
Lager’s got the big beer drinker covered,<br />
too. Warm up with Ayinger Celebrator<br />
Doppelbock, with its muscle-flexing 6.7%<br />
ABV. Move on up to the original double<br />
bock, Paulaner Salvator, the first of the<br />
breed, at a maltilicious “liquid<br />
bread” strength of 7.9%. Double<br />
bocks are warming and filling,<br />
with a broad, complex palette of<br />
malt flavor.<br />
And lager’s got something ale<br />
doesn’t, one of the most popular<br />
seasonal beers in the world: the<br />
beer of Oktoberfest, the malty<br />
amber beauty also known as Märzen.<br />
Heavy Seas makes a great one, as does<br />
Sly Fox, and you can also get the German<br />
imports from Munich brewers Hacker-<br />
Pschorr, Spaten and Paulaner. Nothing can<br />
beat their hearty malt character for pairing<br />
with a wide variety of food: pizza, chicken,<br />
sausage, cheese, noodles and roast pork.<br />
They go pretty well with tuba music, too!<br />
Lagers are an underappreciated segment<br />
of craft beer, and for that to be true in<br />
America’s craft lager heartland is just a<br />
shame. Let’s get some lager love going!<br />
www.origlio.com HeadyTimes v.73 1