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O Scale Trains Magazine Online

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and a piezo lighter allowing for one-handed operation.<br />

The next step is to center-bore a cylinder to accept the 0.042”<br />

rod. I would drill all the way through the cylinder initially. This<br />

should also have plenty of freeplay and probably a #56 drill or<br />

larger would be necessary for this. Figure 4 shows the drilled<br />

out cylinder, the push rod, and fabricated clevis assembly. Now,<br />

it’s time to drill a hole on the floor of the tender. This should be<br />

approximately 1/16” by 3/8” in size. The hole should fit directly<br />

over the clevis of the cylinder. In my case, I gave the cylinder a<br />

little over a 1/8” of motion. Anything less than this is not visible<br />

and more non-realistic.<br />

Figure 5 shows a drawing of the remaining parts on the inside<br />

of the tender. Before you panic, there are only three parts to be<br />

made and there is one fixed part. Here again, all of the holes<br />

should be #70. The pins used are all 0.024” diameter piano wire<br />

and the tubes to bear the pins are all 0.045” inside diameter<br />

(Special Shapes #TT-61). I used two truck springs to provide<br />

• O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - July/Aug ’06<br />

return pressure for the scoop, as shown. By the way, this mechanism<br />

can be radio controlled, controlled by DCC, or with a<br />

solenoid if desired. A pitfall to be careful of here is getting solder

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