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O <strong>Trains</strong><br />
<strong>Scale</strong><br />
Nov/Dec 2003 ◆ Issue #11 ◆ $5.95<br />
US $5 .95 • Can $7 .95<br />
Display until Dec. 31st<br />
Modeling<br />
for the<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
Craftsman
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Groesbeck,<br />
Fraser, MI 48026<br />
586-296-6116<br />
Open Mon-Fri 10-8,<br />
Sat 10-6, Sun 12-5<br />
Fax: 586-296-5642<br />
Power or Repower Kits for Red Caboose GPs<br />
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with plastic Blomberg trucks...$160.00<br />
The P&D TWIN TOWER DRIVE for the Red Caboose GP<br />
body kit is functionally equivalent to the P&D power units<br />
already available for the P&D F units, GPs, RSDs, and the<br />
Weaver FAs, FBs, RS-3s and GP-38s.<br />
The Red Caboose power kits provide only the necessary<br />
power related parts to supplement the Red Caboose GP<br />
body kit. These power kits fully utilize the underframe<br />
(platform), deck, air tanks, fuel tanks, motor mounts and<br />
PDP2201K-Repower Kit, Red Caboose GP9 with<br />
P&D brass Blomberg trucks...$200.00<br />
screws that are furnished in the Red Caboose body kit.<br />
These P&D Twin Tower Drive kits can also be used to repower<br />
existing Red Caboose GPs. Two kits are offered: #PDP2200K has<br />
plastic Blomberg trucks, while #PDP2201K features the P&D brass<br />
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on<br />
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Colors may vary.
Modeling<br />
for the<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
Craftsman<br />
Issue #11<br />
Nov/Dec 2003<br />
Vol. 2, No. 6<br />
<strong>Scale</strong><br />
O<strong>Trains</strong><br />
OFeatures<br />
Editor/Publisher<br />
Joe Giannovario<br />
Art Director<br />
Jaini Simon<br />
Associate Editor<br />
Brian Scace<br />
Contributing Writers<br />
Ted Byrne<br />
Gene Deimling<br />
Bobber Gibbs<br />
Roger Jenkins<br />
Jeb Kriigel<br />
Neville Rossiter<br />
John C. Smith<br />
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Cover: Tom Houle’s Soo Line GP-9. Tom describes<br />
how he built the loco on page 50 this issue.<br />
Centerspread:A scene from Woody Grosdoff’s Proto-<br />
48 layout. The switcher is an Overland Models Alco<br />
S-2 that’s been highly modified for Proto 48 operation.<br />
The tankcar is a PSC 8000 gal. car custom painted and<br />
lettered by Woody. The VGN boxcar is an Intermountain<br />
kit. Both freight cars ride on modified Red<br />
Caboose trucks equipped with Grabowski wheelsets.<br />
The trackwork is code 100 rail handlaid on Grandt Line<br />
tieplates with HO/HOn3 spikes on basswood ties.<br />
OST is a proud Member of the<br />
Model Railroad Industry Association<br />
4 New Orleans Public Belt Railroad<br />
Richard Gardner’s superb OST Layout Contest entry.<br />
10 O <strong>Scale</strong> Small Layout<br />
Who says O scale requires a large space? Not Norman Hills.<br />
16 Acrylic Innersides<br />
Here’s a slick way to build up those old passenger car kits from the<br />
40’s and 50’s. Nick Pulskamp details his methods.<br />
22 Babbitt Atlantic Mods: Part 3<br />
Bob Garrelts details the Babbitt tender.<br />
26 Building a PRR N2sa<br />
Take a USRA 2-10-2 and add a Belpaire. John Sauers makes it look<br />
easy and it is if you don’t have to build a tender.<br />
38 2004 O <strong>Scale</strong> National Convention - An Overview<br />
Brian Scace fill us in on the 2004 convention in Washington, D.C.<br />
50 Building a GP-9<br />
Tom Houle and Jerry Roy marry a Red Caboose superstructure to an<br />
Atlas/Roco F-9 drive. Voila! Motive power on a budget.<br />
56 Indianapolis Midwest Fall O <strong>Scale</strong> Meet<br />
Photos from the recent show.<br />
Departments<br />
12 Traction Action – Roger Jenkins<br />
14 Easements for the Learning Curve – Brian Scace<br />
19 Proto48 – Gene Deimling<br />
34 Crapola From The Cupola – John C. Smith<br />
35 The Workshop – Neville Rossiter<br />
36 O <strong>Scale</strong> DCC – Ted Byrne<br />
37 Narrow Minded – Bobber Gibbs<br />
41 Reader Feedback – Letters to the Editor<br />
44 Product News & Reviews<br />
59 Buy-Sell-Trade Ads<br />
60 Events Listing<br />
60 Ad index<br />
61 OST Dealers List<br />
62 Observations – Joe Giannovario<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 3
Here you go...another great entry from<br />
O<strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>’s<br />
Design-a-Layout Contest<br />
entry submitted by<br />
Richard L. Gardner<br />
Constraints<br />
This layout design contest couldn’t have come at a more<br />
opportune time. Having just rekindled the O scale fever, I was<br />
grappling with the all too familiar real estate challenges this<br />
king of scales presents. This contest has become a personal<br />
test of how much I could squeeze into a relatively small environment.<br />
The news of the minimum radius change came<br />
somewhat after I’d completed the preliminaries, so I was able<br />
to loosen up the design and allow more space to structures. It<br />
became downright enjoyable after that.<br />
Concept<br />
O scale trains are big! The sheer mass and weight enable<br />
them to couple and un-couple with remarkable reliability. This<br />
makes this scale inherently suited to switching. That’s a convenience<br />
for this layout because there’s not a lot of room to<br />
run around in. If we want to do a lot of switching in a small<br />
space, the city is where to go.<br />
But Not Just Any City!<br />
I’ve lived in New Orleans since the early ’90’s and only<br />
recently come to appreciate the wealth of railroading opportunities<br />
in the area. It has been home to dozens of railroads over<br />
the years but the one thread that ties the whole scene together<br />
is the New Orleans Public Belt (NOPB) Railroad. The company<br />
was organized on October 8, 1904 and acquired common<br />
carrier status in 1911. Initially formed as a non-profit organization<br />
jointly financed by the participating railroads, it is now<br />
owned by the City of New Orleans and managed by the Public<br />
Belt Railroad Commission.<br />
The NOPB is probably most famous for constructing the<br />
Huey P. Long Bridge across the Mississippi river. But more<br />
importantly, it was designed to address the complicated tariff<br />
issues of freight service for numerous railroads in a congested<br />
city. Today, the NOPB services no less than 73 industries as<br />
listed on their official web site. This is probably just a fraction<br />
of the traffic that was present during the late forties. There are<br />
dozens of wharfs and warehouses along the river and much<br />
more is found tucked into the fabric of this most exotic of cities.<br />
Have I mentioned the French Quarter yet? It is still as<br />
charming as it was a hundred years ago and the railroad still<br />
runs through it. An engineer can stop his train, walk across the<br />
tracks to Decatur Street and get a café au lait at Café du<br />
Monde. Dense urban traffic with charming ambiance is just<br />
the teaser for inspiration.<br />
Operating The Layout<br />
In such a small room, we can get only a snapshot of the<br />
complexity of the city traffic. But what a snapshot it is! The<br />
design only wraps around two of the room’s walls, but there is<br />
room for some really neat warehouses big enough to look like<br />
they could use some train service. I’m talking big here; the<br />
Napoleon Ave. warehouse is almost four feet long. Other<br />
industries are four and five stories tall, not bad for O scale.<br />
Schematically, the railroad follows the river corridor around<br />
and beyond the room limitations. Large mirrors at each end<br />
create the illusion that you are seeing but a small portion of a<br />
great expanse. Operationally, we will be bringing in a train<br />
from an interchange yard such as the Kansas City Southern<br />
yard on Airline Drive. A three level “elevator” staging yard<br />
accomplishes this task. Note: this was discussed in detail in the<br />
Model Railroad Planning 2001 published by Kalmbach. Each<br />
track can hold six 40 foot freight cars. The tracks can be raised<br />
4 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
and lowered as needed to provide access<br />
to the cars. This staging yard enters the<br />
layout at the end near the Alcoa Shipping<br />
building. We will be bringing in our cut<br />
of cars to be switched in this particular<br />
section of the right-of-way. An ambitious<br />
operator may double-up and bring in<br />
twelve cars or more!<br />
Plenty of variety abounds for your<br />
modeling and operating pleasure. Starting<br />
up-river (on your right as you come<br />
in the room) there is a large machining<br />
and manufacturing building that may<br />
ship and receive not only boxcars but an<br />
occasional flatcar loaded with heavy<br />
machinery. Just around the corner are<br />
the Alcoa Shipping Company and the<br />
Poydras St. warehouses. Boxcars for<br />
coffee and bananas are the norm. A<br />
reefer or two might be handy to handle<br />
more perishable cargo. The Napoleon<br />
Ave. terminal continues the theme with<br />
most anything likely to be loaded or<br />
unloaded from one of the ships. By the<br />
way, there is enough room between the<br />
wharfs to model believable buildings. A<br />
large ship can be painted on the backdrop<br />
between. The main portion can be<br />
modeled in bas-relief. I can envision a<br />
neat mini-scene showing laborers<br />
unloading bananas from an open door in<br />
the hull. I’ve run across many pictures of<br />
just such a thing in my research.<br />
Continuing down river we come to<br />
the American Sugar Refinery (now<br />
Domino Sugar). Tank cars come in with<br />
syrup from the many sugar plantations<br />
nearby. Boxcars of bagged products will<br />
be shipped out. A little further down the<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 5
line<br />
we come to the<br />
Douglas Public Service<br />
Warehouse. This was a really big<br />
facility in the French Quarter between<br />
Decatur St. and the river. Lots of traffic is required<br />
for this impressive building.<br />
Finally, what respectable layout would not<br />
have a team or less than carload (LCL) track. Anything goes here. There is one that I pass regularly that routinely spots a<br />
tank car to fill waiting tank trucks. Once a rather large piece of machinery arrived and it took most of a week with the<br />
help of a crane to load two flatbed trailers. Stretching the imagination, I would envision a local<br />
farmer taking delivery of some prized bull. There’s another mini-scene. Picture a<br />
stock car sitting on the siding complete with a makeshift chute funneling said<br />
animal into a waiting pickup with livestock trailer. There you have it.<br />
6 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
We even snuck in a stock car for operations.<br />
Layout statistics.<br />
The layout was designed for the 11 x<br />
14’ room as specified<br />
in the contest rules.<br />
The minimum radius is 36" with<br />
4" centers. This comes to 36, 40, and 44" for the<br />
big curve around the Napoleon Ave. warehouse. The line to<br />
staging is 36". All turnouts are designed to use stock #5’s from<br />
Atlas. Most will drop right in without hassle. The two back-to-back<br />
turnouts in front of the “up-town” commercial district will need just a<br />
little trimming around the throw bar. Seven right hand and four left hand<br />
turnouts are required.<br />
The layout height has been set at 54" for optimum viewing. The front<br />
fascia is shown as a solid dark green. This could be a curtain as well. The backdrop is 36" high with a painted sky and the<br />
aforementioned ship.<br />
There is a valance that comes down to the six-foot level. A Masonite top spans the valance and backdrop to support lights<br />
and is painted white to reflect light back into the layout. There are 16 lights planned in all and have been digitally represented<br />
in the presentation drawings. Seven are fill lights. These are bare bulbs in the popular sunlight<br />
temperature (5400º Kelvin) for an almost blue white. They are mounted snug against the top<br />
and run down the middle of the layout. Seven regular spot-lights (3200º K) are mounted as close<br />
to the valance and as low as possible to cast a warm<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 7
accent light. Individual wattages need not be very high allowing you to use a standard household<br />
dimmer to facilitate nighttime operations. The final two spotlights are located over the modeling<br />
desk. The valance / lighting combination provides a shadow-box effect drawing you right into<br />
the scene. The renderings support this nicely.<br />
Summation.<br />
I’ve taken a unique prototype, added diverse functional<br />
operations and packed a lifetime’s worth of<br />
modeling and operating enjoyment into a small 11' x 14' room with room left over for a respectable modeling bench, not to mention<br />
the drop-dead graphics!<br />
8 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
References:<br />
French Quarter Manual, An Architectural Guide to New Orleans Vieux Carré, Malcolm Heard, Tulane School of Architecture.<br />
New Orleans, Then and Now,Richard and Marina Campanella, Pelican Publishing Company, Gretna, Louisiana.<br />
Louisiana Photograph Collection — http://nutrias.org/photos/<br />
New Orleans Public Belt Railroad — http://www.nopb.com/<br />
The Louisiana Rail Site — http://lrs.railspot.com/r-nopb-s.htm<br />
◆<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
Realty<br />
Realistic Weathered Structures in<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong> Scratchbuilt From Your<br />
Photos, Plans or Ideas!<br />
(Will also build & weather your kits)<br />
Reed Artim<br />
973-472-7456 • mickman777@yahoo.com<br />
75 Woodridge Rd, Clifton NJ 07012<br />
T-BONE MODELS<br />
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Send SASE for information<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 9
O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
Small<br />
Layout<br />
Norman A. Hills<br />
When I retired, I decided that I wanted to<br />
renew my involvement with model trains<br />
and at the same time interest my two grandsons<br />
in the technical challenges of O scale<br />
modeling as contrasted to that of toy trains.<br />
The choice of O scale was partially based on<br />
my age and failing eyesight.<br />
I live in a large house with lots of space<br />
but I was urged by “she who must be<br />
obeyed” to make use of the basement room<br />
that had recently been emptied of our commercial<br />
computer equipment. My O scale<br />
layout, therefore, is in a small room that<br />
measures 14 feet x 12 feet 9 inches, which<br />
would be considered by many as inadequate<br />
for the 48 inch radius that I chose for the<br />
minimum. Discussing this project with serious<br />
O scale modelers, their immediate concern<br />
was for the lack of space for any<br />
appreciable length of straight track.<br />
The entire layout was built following the<br />
principles of modular construction with the<br />
hope and expectation that I may eventually<br />
be permitted to move to more adequate<br />
space, at which time I will build expansion<br />
modules to fit between the existing ones. In<br />
the meantime, I am able to explore various<br />
methods of construction and logic circuits to<br />
sense the turnout positions and appropriately<br />
control power to the track sections along<br />
with the associated trackside signals.<br />
The Mobius Loop<br />
Track plans usually have a style designation<br />
such as point to point, loop, walk<br />
around, dogbone or folded dogbone. The<br />
track plan shown is what I call a Mobius<br />
Loop. I believe that the use of Mobius Loop<br />
as a style designation is original and requires<br />
some explanation. To better understand the<br />
Mobius, take a piece of typing paper and cut<br />
from one edge a strip about 1 inch wide.<br />
Mark both ends of this strip with a dot on<br />
the same surface. Then glue or tape the two<br />
dots together noting that a half twist to the<br />
strip is required. The product of this process<br />
1<br />
is shown below.<br />
Now hold the loop down on a table surface<br />
and draw a continuous line on the upper<br />
surface. Keep going until the end of the line<br />
has joined up with its start. If you have followed<br />
these instructions properly then you<br />
will note that despite your attempt to draw<br />
your line on one side only, your line is on all<br />
the surfaces of the strip. Your strip no longer<br />
has two surfaces, but is one single surface as<br />
2<br />
shown in the picture below.<br />
You may have difficulty in visualizing<br />
how this relates to the track layout, probably<br />
because we do not expect the track to do a<br />
half twist or roll over. To overcome this,<br />
think of each edge of the mobius strip as a<br />
thin line representation of the track and<br />
compare your mobius paper strip to the<br />
illustration at the bottom of this column. The<br />
use of the Mobius Loop in effect doubles the<br />
linear length of the loop, making it equal to a<br />
3<br />
simple loop in a room twice the size.<br />
Benchwork<br />
My approach to design is to let the available<br />
materials make design decisions for<br />
me. The computer disc drive cabinets from<br />
our business had an internal height measured<br />
27 inches which was ideal for a tabletop<br />
height of approximately 30 inches from<br />
the floor.<br />
The table top sections consist of a picture<br />
frame of 3 /4" x 3 1 /2" boards on edge, to the<br />
top of which has been nailed a panel of 1 /2"<br />
inch plywood. Salvaged shelving made of<br />
1<br />
/4" particle board was sawn to 3 1 /2" wide<br />
strips for straight sections of roadbed. Larger<br />
pieces were cut using a circle cutting attachment<br />
on my bandsaw with an outside radius<br />
of 49 3 /4" and an inside radius of 46 1 /4". To<br />
both edges of all of these pieces was added a<br />
chamfer. I have since read that the roadbed<br />
should be cork for sound and vibration purposes<br />
but was relieved to see in issue #4 of<br />
OST where another modeler had used<br />
milled spruce with beveled edges for<br />
roadbed. I assume that the properties of my<br />
particle board would be somewhere between<br />
those of cork and milled spruce. However,<br />
were I to start anew I would use cork.<br />
The layout was made modular to facilitate<br />
a non-destructive tear down. The 1 /2"<br />
plywood working surface of the benchwork<br />
is outlined in orange in figure 3. Each<br />
orange line going from the inside edge out<br />
toward the wall represents the two edges of<br />
adjacent modules that are joined together<br />
with two 1 /2" bolts through the mating<br />
boards. One exception is the structure supporting<br />
the double crossover, which is<br />
hinged as a gate to permit access without<br />
having to crawl under the layout.<br />
At each interface, everything has to be a<br />
butt joint to permit parting along that line of<br />
separation. The roadbed, every rail and every<br />
element of scenery has to be cut along that<br />
line, although the rails have a joining piece to<br />
ensure alignment of the track.<br />
Track<br />
Track is a mix of flex and hand-laid.<br />
Since the flex is old style Atlas code 148, it<br />
was fastened to the roadbed with nails<br />
through the holes provided in the plastic ties.<br />
The hand laid track is code 148 nickel silver<br />
from Old Pullman, using Old Pullman<br />
spikes to homemade ties. The ties were<br />
soaked in a water solution of dark brown<br />
10 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
4<br />
RIT dye, slightly darkened further with a<br />
touch of RIT black.<br />
My hand laying practice was to lay one<br />
rail first with 2 spikes at every third or fourth<br />
tie, taking care to ensure that the rail was<br />
either straight or conformed to the desired<br />
curvature. Lay the second rail with two<br />
spikes into the same tie as the first rail, making<br />
certain with the track gauge that the<br />
spacing was within the “go/no-go”<br />
allowance. By skipping several ties, I was<br />
able to speed up the hand laying process and<br />
could add spikes to those intervening ties to<br />
fine tune the rail spacing where required.<br />
The scratch built double crossover in Fig.<br />
4 was the subject of an earlier article published<br />
in the July 1999 NMRA Bulletin.<br />
Turnouts<br />
The track figures were created using the<br />
free Atlas Right Track Software. The<br />
turnouts on the artwork are all #5 and the<br />
main line overall length for these turnouts is<br />
exactly equal to the length of two straight<br />
sections, 20 inches. This is certainly a convenience<br />
where one may wish to remove<br />
straight track and replace it with a turnout,<br />
but this overall length of 20 inches exceeds<br />
NMRA standards. A pair of Old Pullman #6<br />
turnouts are 15 1 /4" long. The turnouts and<br />
crossover on my layout are all #6 and conform<br />
to the Old Pullman dimensions, so this<br />
results in the layout as illustrated appearing<br />
to be a little tighter than is the actual layout<br />
as constructed.<br />
Elevations and Grades<br />
I chose to keep the grades to 3 percent or<br />
less. Each of the three elevations have an<br />
assigned color on figure 4 as do the two<br />
grade sections joining the three elevations. It<br />
is important to avoid any abrupt change in<br />
grade. At each change of grade from level<br />
to 3 percent up or down, I actually have 3<br />
changes of grade. There is a change from 0<br />
to 1%, 1% to 2% and then 2% to 3%. The<br />
spacing between these grade changes are as<br />
far apart as the length of my longest loco or<br />
rail car.<br />
At the locations where the lower rail<br />
passes under the upper, I have an elevation<br />
difference of 7.4 inches. The NMRA standard<br />
for vertical clearance above the rails<br />
is 5 1 /2 inches for O scale. With careful<br />
design of the structure supporting the rails<br />
passing over and above at these places, the<br />
vertical elevation difference could easily<br />
be reduced to 6 1 /2 inches, permitting a<br />
reduction in the grade.<br />
Power<br />
The computer salvage included a 16<br />
volt regulated power supply with more<br />
capacity than my layout is ever likely to<br />
require. I was concerned about having so<br />
much current capacity that arcing on<br />
derailment could result in items being<br />
welded together. However, this has not<br />
happened, yet. I have two power busses,<br />
one for auxiliary power such as lights,<br />
logic circuits, track relays and signals. The<br />
second is for track power. I would have<br />
liked to have used solid state circuitry to<br />
control track power whenever the turnout<br />
positions made it unwise for the locomotive<br />
to proceed. Because I was not ready to<br />
invest in DCC, I chose instead to utilize a<br />
number of 2 and 3 pole 12 volt dc relays<br />
also salvaged from the computers, operated<br />
by a logic circuit board of my own<br />
design for controlling track power and<br />
track polarity.<br />
Conclusion<br />
I have been well pleased with what I<br />
have been able to accomplish to date within<br />
a limited space. With a long list of projects<br />
that I would still like to incorporate<br />
and skills that still need to be acquired or<br />
improved, I have become quite content to<br />
continue for some time to work within the<br />
limitations of my present space. While a<br />
small layout may not be as visually<br />
impressive as a large one, the same skills<br />
of execution are required and ample<br />
opportunities for innovation are always<br />
present. ◆<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 11
Traction<br />
Traction<br />
Roger Jenkins<br />
Action<br />
For putting up wire over double track on<br />
a curve, I use the Rivers Traction & Trolleys<br />
casting B-615. The span wire is fed into the<br />
holes on the wings and folded back on itself.<br />
The end of the wire that attaches to the pole<br />
is wound around that once and brought back<br />
and wound around itself next to the pole.<br />
The hanger should be over the center of the<br />
track to start but as you proceed around a<br />
curve, the hanger is over the inside rail or<br />
close to it. A test car can be used to make<br />
sure the running wire fits in the pole shoe.<br />
From the first ear casting to the next out<br />
over the second track, a short wire is used to<br />
connect the first one. The next wire carries to<br />
the opposite pole. Between poles on a curve<br />
a span wire is usually placed from pole to<br />
pole to anchor the in-between pull-offs, as<br />
the castings are located about six feet apart<br />
on curves. The span wire is attached to the<br />
span wires from the castings and the parallel<br />
span wire keeps everything taut.<br />
Remember to use the reverse tweezers I<br />
mentioned last month to hold the running<br />
wire and castings together so they can be<br />
soldered. The tweezers act as a heat sink,<br />
too, so the wire does not become untempered.<br />
Cross spans need not be anchored to<br />
poles on the curves, but can hold onto the<br />
parallel spans that run between poles. Every<br />
other span can end at the innermost casting<br />
if you cut off the extra connection on the<br />
outside where the loop is, making it a clone<br />
of the real half-hangers seen in the photos.<br />
As can be seen, there are several half-hangers<br />
on the curves, with some full hangers<br />
providing the tension. The pictures show<br />
wire over single track but the job is the same<br />
for double track, only using more poles and<br />
wire in the process. The end result should<br />
come out okay with a little patience.<br />
rogertrolley.1@juno.com<br />
◆<br />
The photo below was<br />
inadvertently left out<br />
of Roger's last<br />
column. It shows the<br />
way poles are put in<br />
neatly along a<br />
sidewalk. My<br />
apologies - Ed.<br />
12 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
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This issue’s column fires a broadside<br />
directly at our new folks from the N and HO<br />
world who have found the one and true faith.<br />
Of course, the rest of us may find enlightenment<br />
here as well. We’re going to put a little<br />
thought into the use of scenic elements in O<br />
scale, and a bit of a perspective shift from<br />
what you’ve been used to in your former<br />
smaller world.<br />
Behold! The Oracle Speaks!<br />
First, let us accept the premise that most<br />
of us have a comfortable reach over about<br />
32" of benchwork, and that aisles should be<br />
wide enough to accommodate the passing<br />
of two full-sized people at the same time.<br />
These are some of the human elements to<br />
consider in layout design, totally independent<br />
of scale of choice, and the parameters<br />
we must work within for a successful comfortable<br />
design.<br />
That 32" reach in the smaller scales<br />
allows for an enviable depth of field.<br />
Indeed, N scale has it all over O scale in<br />
scenic grandeur, because you can model the<br />
Feather River Canyon, put Keddie Wye in<br />
the middle of it, and STILL reach over the<br />
whole thing before you touch the backdrop.<br />
In the larger scale world, that 32" depth of<br />
field becomes restrictive, especially after<br />
you’ve used a third of that for trackage. So,<br />
we have to think a little differently. There<br />
are two things to consider here. Make the<br />
eyes move to take in a scene, and use some<br />
trickery to attract the eye’s attention to those<br />
elements you want folks to look at, so they<br />
don’t notice the spatial liberties you’ve<br />
taken. Here are some thoughts to get the<br />
juices flowing:<br />
Mind What You Cast Shadows Upon<br />
More so than in N or HO, shadows in O<br />
scale become a real believability issue.<br />
When that Hudson casts an O <strong>Scale</strong> shadow<br />
on a scenic backdrop as it goes by, it totally<br />
ruins the illusion you’ve tried so hard to create.<br />
Blocking these shadows with a grove of<br />
trees or a building is no solution, because<br />
those oaks or that factory will cast their own<br />
shadow right in the same place. Solutions?<br />
Plan your trackage, buildings, and big trees<br />
to be farther away from the backdrop or<br />
other two-dimensional scenery. Raise the<br />
light source so as to shorten the shadows.<br />
My vote for the best solution is to use building<br />
flats instead of the traditional hills and<br />
clouds backdrop. Buildings (even twodimensional<br />
ones) can have shadows cast<br />
upon them with impunity.<br />
Space Eaters and Space Savers<br />
Another big problem with the traditional<br />
hill-and-cloud backdrop is that the three<br />
dimensional foothills leading the eye to the<br />
two-dimensional purple mountain’s majesty<br />
eat up more of that now precious fore-andaft<br />
32" than we can afford. Scenic transitions<br />
are space eaters. Of course, those<br />
wonderful building flats need no such transitions<br />
from three to two dimensions for<br />
believability. If it sounds like I’m pushing<br />
an urban setting rather than a rural one, it’s<br />
because I am.<br />
If a rural setting is required, plan your<br />
trackage and large buildings and trees well<br />
forward. As you encroach on the back, cuts<br />
with rock faces serve the same function as<br />
flats. Sidings with stored freight cars can<br />
work. The trick is to gain height quickly<br />
with the three-dimensional stuff so that<br />
when you do transition to two-dimensional<br />
scenery, you’re out of the shadow domain.<br />
That 32" gets eaten up quickly in this scale,<br />
so get climbing! If you really must model<br />
the flatlands of southern Indiana, I’d suggest<br />
that you build your railroad in a series of<br />
light-boxes so you can valance-light the<br />
scenes from noonday straight up. Turn out<br />
all the other lights in the room and cast no<br />
shadows at all.<br />
Go Up, Young Man<br />
Now, it’s time for the curve to be thrown.<br />
Although it may sound counter-intuitive to<br />
the thread of our discussion, bear with me.<br />
The fact that our stuff is taller than in HO or<br />
N can be played to advantage, so long as<br />
you are aware of the placement/shadowing<br />
issues we’ve previously discussed. Tall<br />
things make the eyes wander up and down to<br />
take it all in. We want that, so the viewer’s<br />
eyes are not looking fore-and-aft or side-toside<br />
and seeing all the tricks we’ve pulled to<br />
create the illusion of depth and distance. Tall<br />
buildings are useful in the urban setting for<br />
this reason. A tall grain elevator in a rural<br />
setting attracts the attention away from the<br />
lack of depth that our 32" gives us.<br />
We’ve taken great pains to distract the eye<br />
from our depth-of-field issues, so now we<br />
must attract the eye to the good stuff before it<br />
catches on. A grove of trees is useful (By the<br />
way, trees are a foot tall in this scale, not<br />
those little scraggly weeds we all seem to<br />
make. If you model the C&O in West Virginny,<br />
little lichen bushes register a negative<br />
number on Scace’s Neurotic-O-Meter!).<br />
Overpasses are better than grade crossings.<br />
Getting eyes working in a vertical plane<br />
keeps them busy, making our scenes “feel”<br />
bigger and deeper in the horizontal. Instead<br />
of a parallel road next to the track, try it<br />
behind and higher than the track. Get those<br />
eyes moving up and down!<br />
Stuff in Front, Too<br />
Putting things out in front of the track,<br />
such as trees, a detailed interlocking tower,<br />
even tall structures, is another trick to aid in<br />
our illusion. These items tend to stop the eye<br />
from wanting to follow the long horizontal<br />
plane established by the track. Then the eye<br />
is free to be attracted to the up-and-down<br />
direction or to some detailed vignette where<br />
we want it. Foreground scenes and items<br />
break the scenes up, stop the eye from travelling<br />
horizontally for long distances, and<br />
allow the trains to run through an area, rather<br />
than in front of an area. It all looks much<br />
more believable, which is the whole point.<br />
The Big Lesson:<br />
Don’t be afraid to build scenery and scenic<br />
elements, just because you must use<br />
some more subterfuge to avoid scenic pitfalls<br />
in the larger gauges. When you are done<br />
with a section, break out that digital camera<br />
14 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
you use to sell all your HO stuff on Ebay<br />
(without the flash if possible so you can see<br />
the normal lighting effects on the scene<br />
you’ve created), and take a few frames.<br />
Look for problem areas in the pictures, then<br />
show them to your friends or spouse for<br />
their opinions. I’m sure they’ll be appropriately<br />
merciless.<br />
Although this may sound a little off-thewall,<br />
you may have noticed that you are<br />
faced with many of the challenges that setdesigners<br />
face in the movie and theater<br />
world. If you know folks in that trade, pick<br />
their brain a bit for new ideas. You may find<br />
it useful to visit a community theater, or<br />
even take a course in set design. After all,<br />
their trade is illusion, which is our goal.<br />
Conclusion:<br />
In N or HO, our 32" depth is the “wide<br />
open spaces”. In O, you have to give a little<br />
more thought in how you invest that depth<br />
to create the illusion of distance to the horizon.<br />
We’ve discussed before the problems<br />
of making a modest sized O <strong>Scale</strong> railroad<br />
look large enough to be believable, but<br />
don’t neglect the same tricks while dealing<br />
with those scale-independent constraints<br />
which define the depth of scenes we build.<br />
Let’s go Exploring!<br />
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Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 15
HOW TO<br />
Acrylic“Innersides”<br />
by Nick Pulskamp<br />
Acrylic “Innersides” Add Strength<br />
and Make Great Windows<br />
Several JC Models heavyweight passenger<br />
car kits recently came up on<br />
Ebay and ended up in my shops. They<br />
are from the 1930’s and were among the<br />
best models available at the time of the<br />
best prototypes of the era. The roof,<br />
floor and ends are wood. The sides and<br />
end wraps are what printers call chipboard—that’s<br />
the thick “cardboard”<br />
sheet on the bottom of notepads. They<br />
are beautifully embossed and diecut to<br />
represent a wide variety of prototypes.<br />
We’ve seen these cars at shows with<br />
their warped and collapsed sides.<br />
Haven’t we all wondered if these stately<br />
beauties could be saved somehow?<br />
Now we can construct the surviving<br />
kits—and maybe even rebuild some<br />
existing cars—so the sides will keep<br />
their shape for a very long time even<br />
with rough handling. Indeed, the kit<br />
used for this article had water damage to<br />
the sides that caused some warping .<br />
Let’s Open The Kit.<br />
The assembly method described in the<br />
kit’s instructions is typical of the era, a<br />
four-sided wood frame with paper sides<br />
attached, the interior sealed forever. Just<br />
like boxcars, reefers and other housecars<br />
of the era, build the frame, cover the sides<br />
and handle with great care! There is nothing<br />
wrong with this method. Many beautiful<br />
models were produced and some<br />
still survive pretty well.<br />
But, what if the beautifully embossed<br />
sides were also strong enough to withstand<br />
rough handling and humidity<br />
changes for decades without loss of<br />
integrity? We can do now what our fellow<br />
modelers could not do in the ’30s,<br />
’40s or ’50s when these kits were popular.<br />
We can build these sides to permanently<br />
rival steel sides in strength and<br />
durability.<br />
The key is using 3 /32" acrylic sheet as<br />
an “innerside”. Acrylic is clear, colorless,<br />
smooth, strong, flat and easy to<br />
work with. It is also easy to form,<br />
machine and bond. Some prototype<br />
windowpanes are made of acrylic sheet.<br />
If the real world can use it so can we!<br />
Let’s Build The Car.<br />
First we need to make room for the<br />
3<br />
/32" thickness of the “innersides.” Take<br />
3<br />
/32" off each side of the bottom and<br />
16 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
ends. Don’t worry about the flanges on<br />
the ends, take them off. Move each roof<br />
eave channel in 3 /32" or take them off<br />
entirely and replace them with stripwood<br />
later. Paint the floor, ceiling and<br />
ends—but not their edges.<br />
grain” less than other sealers or paints.<br />
Then paint for color, flat inside and<br />
gloss outside (for decals.) Decorate and<br />
seal with something clear.<br />
Now mount the painted and decorated<br />
outersides to the innersides. Carefully<br />
Build the box square starting with the<br />
floor and ends.<br />
Cut the acrylic slightly oversize (note<br />
that the kit sides come slightly overlong,<br />
too.) One long acrylic edge needs to be<br />
as straight as possible. Work the acrylic<br />
as you do styrene. Scoring and breaking<br />
works great with a little practice.<br />
Remember the acrylic is more rigid than<br />
styrene so score a little on the deep side<br />
and clamp the full length of the break.<br />
The edges can be sharp!<br />
After dry fitting the innersides with<br />
the roof held in place (not glued), glue<br />
the innersides to the floor and ends with<br />
a bead of glue along the outer edges of<br />
the wood so that the innersides extend<br />
beyond the floor and ends and butt up<br />
and seal against the roof eave.<br />
File, sand or grind the innersides to<br />
conform to the end configurations.<br />
You now have a strong box with<br />
smooth transparent sides and a removable<br />
roof. The construction phase of the<br />
project can be considered nearly complete.<br />
You will file the bottom edge of<br />
the innersides after you mount the outersides.<br />
What could be simpler? The rest<br />
can be considered decoration.<br />
Follow the kit instructions for painting<br />
the embossed chipboard (the “outerside”).<br />
Do not trim to length yet. Paint<br />
both the inside and outside of the outerside<br />
now. You won’t get another good<br />
chance! You might seal the chipboard<br />
with a coat or two of shellac (white pigmented)<br />
which seems to “raise the<br />
apply a line of bonding agent on the outside<br />
face of the innerside at the periphery<br />
of the ends and floor. Put a small<br />
bead of glue along the top of the inside<br />
of the outerside. Position the outerside<br />
on the innerside with the roof in place so<br />
you can butt the outerside up against the<br />
roof eave to close that seam. Take care<br />
that the outerside is positioned lengthwise<br />
so as to conceal the wood of the<br />
ends. Weight, clamp or whatever you<br />
prefer to do to maintain intimate contact<br />
between the outerside and the innerside<br />
while your bonding agent sets. With<br />
cyanoacrylate glue I use my hands being<br />
careful to avoid getting any CA on the<br />
skin! Especially with warped sides<br />
hands seem to give a greater sensitivity<br />
and adaptability to clamping.<br />
Cut and carefully sand the outersides<br />
to conform to the ends. The top edge conforms<br />
because you butted the outerside<br />
up to the roof. The bottom edge will conform<br />
as soon as you sand or file the bottom<br />
edge of the acrylic (which you left<br />
oversize and that is now sticking out from<br />
under the outerside) to conform perfectly<br />
with the bottom edge of the outerside.<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 17
Paint and apply the car end wraps per<br />
instructions or make your own from<br />
.010" styrene. Now is when I do those<br />
little touch-ups that keep us all humble.<br />
Add trucks, couplers, details of your<br />
choice and paint all that stuff.<br />
You now have a beautiful car from a<br />
classic kit that will withstand abuse and<br />
won’t even notice normal handling. The<br />
windows reflect exterior light and<br />
images sharply and clearly while almost<br />
disappearing from view on the inside.<br />
The roof lifts off for furnishing and<br />
maintenance. This method works equally<br />
well with stamped metal-sided cars.<br />
Some Notes & Asides<br />
✔ If your CA “smokes” the acrylic<br />
use some ammonia-containing Windex<br />
to remove the discoloration.<br />
Apply some to a soft cloth<br />
and rub gently—like washing<br />
a window(!)<br />
✔ To bond acrylic to<br />
wood I use either CA or<br />
Gorilla Glue. CA is faster<br />
and neater. Also scratch the<br />
acrylic with some sandpaper<br />
where the glue will go.<br />
✔ To bond chipboard to<br />
acrylic I use CA gap-filling<br />
glue only at the edges<br />
whenever possible. Some<br />
places might require shimming<br />
where the embossed<br />
chipboard does not lay tight against<br />
the innerside. Shims should be kept<br />
at the peripheries wherever possible<br />
to keep them out of sight from the<br />
inside. Remember you will want to<br />
furnish these beautiful cars with<br />
lights, walls, people and other stuff!<br />
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18 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
Assembling San Juan Freight Car Trucks<br />
As most of you know, San Juan Car Company produces<br />
an extensive line of freight car trucks in both<br />
O gauge (1.250”) and Proto48. I have had several<br />
PROTO48 MODELING<br />
GENE<br />
DEIMLING<br />
folks ask for ideas on assembly of these beautiful<br />
trucks. It is a bit of a departure from the past<br />
columns but you may find this information useful<br />
whether you work in Proto48 or standard O. The<br />
steps and techniques are the same. I will go through<br />
a few a pointers that will hopefully make assembly<br />
easier. The truck being described is an AAR Double<br />
Truss (Bettendorf) freight truck. The photo depicts<br />
most of the parts provided in the kit. There is a second<br />
set of trucks parts as well as the spring plank,<br />
lower spring plate (used as alternative to spring<br />
plank) and linkage between the brake beams.<br />
Bolster Preparation<br />
Over the years I have seen all sorts of wood and<br />
machine screws used to attach trucks to a model.<br />
Rather than using a 4-40 or 2-56 screw, I like to use<br />
1-72 machine screws to mount the trucks. There is<br />
no need for the large screws since the San Juan<br />
trucks are very light even with steel wheels. Small<br />
diameter screws have a tendency to be difficult to<br />
thread through the closed bolster assembly. I add a<br />
short length of 3 /16" styrene tubing to inside of the bolster bottom. I<br />
also add a .040" by .125" styrene strip to the bolster top . I pre-drill this<br />
strip so as to avoid damage to the thin bolster top.<br />
Journal Lids<br />
Installing the lids goes quickly if you use a model knife to break the<br />
edge of the mounting hole located on the journal. It also helps to keep<br />
the lid attached to the sprue until the pin is partially drive home. You<br />
can tweak the lid alignment using a smooth jaw plier.<br />
Brake Rigging<br />
The brake rigging can be tedious to assemble so you need to be<br />
patient. The brake beams need to be cleaned up with a razor blade or<br />
modeling knife. Drag the blade along the four sides of the beam end.<br />
This will remove the flash on the parting line, but more importantly it<br />
adds a slight taper so the beam will mate with the brake shoe with a<br />
minimum of pressure.<br />
Leave the brake shoes<br />
attached to the sprue<br />
until the beam is<br />
inserted. Make sure<br />
you support the shoe<br />
on the backside when<br />
you are inserting the<br />
beam.<br />
Mount the brake<br />
lever on the beam and<br />
add the brake hangers. The brake rigging is placed on the workbench<br />
and the truck is placed over the top. Using a pair of tweezers, position<br />
the hangers in the mounting tubes on the back of the side frame. Don’t<br />
apply too much pressure or you might dislodge the hanger from the<br />
brake shoe.<br />
Springs<br />
San Juan uses a molded engineering plastic spring instead of the<br />
usual fine wire springs. The spring looks more realistic since the wire<br />
diameter is more prototypical in size. I have had trouble installing<br />
these springs in the truck. I started installing some old Athearn wire<br />
springs on the inside positions where you can’t see them and the scale<br />
springs on the outside. The truck shown at the beginning of the article<br />
was assembled using custom made springs.<br />
Weathering<br />
I usually airbrush the trucks with Floquil Weathered black. It is a<br />
warm-gray-black color that shows up the detail very well. I used Kuras<br />
Rust-All washes for the rust highlights.<br />
Hopefully, this description will help you complete your San Juan<br />
Car Company trucks quickly and accurately.<br />
◆<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 19
20 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
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Detailing the Babbitt Small Tender<br />
Bob Garrelts<br />
The tender that is supplied with the<br />
smaller Babbitt kits is the original<br />
design that came with the General Models/All<br />
Nation B&O Ten Wheeler. Not<br />
much has changed over the years except<br />
the ladder, marker lights and truck sideframes.<br />
It appears they have fallen victim<br />
to worn out dies and are now made<br />
of different materials than the originals.<br />
Many years ago I put rivets on one of<br />
these tenders by drilling hundreds of<br />
#70 holes, inserting brass pins with the<br />
heads cut off. A good dose of Hercules<br />
“Swif” (a 50/50 solder ground in an acid<br />
flux) on the inside and a torch spread the<br />
solder all over the inside. Some time<br />
was spent to file down the pins then a<br />
wire brush finished the job. In a moment<br />
of “stupidity” I sold that tender to Joe<br />
Ranker and it has spent the intervening<br />
years in Cooperstown, N.Y. I have no<br />
intention of doing that again. We have<br />
other ways to deal with the situation.<br />
Start by assembling the tank, top deck,<br />
front coal sheet and the two mounting<br />
plates that hold the tank to the frame. It<br />
would be difficult to do after installing<br />
the wrapper. Make sure that you file any<br />
excess where the bottom plate tabs come<br />
through the sides. We want the tank to be<br />
as smooth as possible.<br />
The next step is somewhat up to the<br />
builder. Select the brass you want to use<br />
for the wrapper. I happened to have a<br />
three foot long sheet of .010" brass so I<br />
could make a one piece wrapper. It<br />
could just as easily be done in two<br />
OR...SOLDERING REALLY IS FUN!<br />
pieces with the joint in the middle of the<br />
tank rear. The thickness of the brass is<br />
important. Too thick and it will be hard<br />
to impress all those rivets. Too thin and<br />
it may deform and not take impressions<br />
well. Another criterion to be concerned<br />
with is hard, soft or half hard brass<br />
sheet. I didn’t think about this at the outset<br />
and I should<br />
have. The marvelous<br />
sheet I had<br />
was apparently<br />
hard brass. When it<br />
came time to bend<br />
the front pieces<br />
around the water<br />
legs it started to act<br />
like spring brass. It<br />
took a lot of persuasion<br />
to get it to<br />
go around the<br />
curved water legs.<br />
Select the rivet<br />
pattern you want. Several choices are<br />
appropriate such as two double rows<br />
from front to rear. Another alternative is<br />
vertical double rows. No matter what<br />
pattern you decide on be prepared to<br />
punch a lot of rivets (see sketches).<br />
Rivets can be pressed in brass very<br />
easily. My first rivet tool was made<br />
about 50 years ago. I assembled it from<br />
scrap brass and a piece of drill rod. It<br />
served its purpose at the time. Some<br />
time in the 60’s Precision Manufacturing<br />
(not Precision <strong>Scale</strong>) made a very<br />
well-built punch with dies in several<br />
sizes. It occasionally comes back on the<br />
market. Jerry Snow of Accurate O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
recently marketed a rather sophisticated<br />
machine (Photo #1) with changeable<br />
dies. It also includes a long table that is<br />
advanced by a lever. The advance distance<br />
can be adjusted. It’s long enough<br />
to do a passenger car. Many people have<br />
Accurate "O" <strong>Scale</strong> rivet machine with finished sheet.<br />
made punches from drill rod and dies<br />
from all kinds of things and used a drill<br />
press and a fence clamped to the table to<br />
make rivets. North West Shortline’s<br />
Sensi Press can also be equipped to<br />
press rivets (Photo #2).<br />
The way to layout the rivet pattern is<br />
to clean the brass with lacquer thinner<br />
then coat it with blue layout dye on what<br />
will become the inside of the wrapper.<br />
You should be able to buy layout dye<br />
from tool stores or one of the mail order<br />
tool suppliers. Starrett Blue Dye comes<br />
with a swab attached to the lid and<br />
1<br />
22 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
2<br />
makes fast work of coating the brass.<br />
Scribe the pattern you’ve chosen with a<br />
ruler and a scriber. Start by scribing the<br />
long lines (in my case, horizontal), then<br />
using a slotted ruler, scribe the short<br />
cross lines. A stainless steel ruler offered<br />
by Micro-Mark with slots works well<br />
for laying out staggered rows. It comes<br />
in 6" (#81565) and 12" (#81569). Where<br />
the lines intersect is where you punch<br />
the rivet. Remember the old carpenters<br />
adage, measure twice, cut once. In my<br />
case I should have measured at least<br />
three times. I goofed on the pattern but<br />
it’s too late to do anything about it.<br />
Besides, you only see one side at a time!<br />
(Photo #3)<br />
Set up good light, that’s why I<br />
worked in the kitchen over the objections<br />
of, well, you know who. You might<br />
want to practice on a piece of scrap.<br />
Eventually you will develop a feel for<br />
the pressure needed to impress the rivet.<br />
Get a soothing drink and punch away.<br />
3<br />
Our "Chief Engineer" checks over the tooling.<br />
This is a very boring<br />
process. If you get tired or<br />
if things aren’t going well,<br />
get up and walk away.<br />
Come back when you’re<br />
refreshed. Don’t trim the<br />
top edge of the wrapper<br />
until you’ve finished soldering<br />
it in place. If you<br />
look at the photographs<br />
you may see rivets that<br />
went through and left a<br />
small hole. That comes<br />
from being too heavy handed<br />
with my little ball peen<br />
hammer and maybe the<br />
“hard" brass. The pattern<br />
isn’t perfect either, but then<br />
I don’t have the patience of Job. Actually,<br />
I’m counting on paint to kind of<br />
cover my slight errors.<br />
When you have completed the rivet<br />
punching clean the layout dye from the<br />
brass sheet with lacquer thinner. You<br />
may find, like I did, that the sheet brass<br />
tended to curl<br />
slightly. Before I<br />
tried to solder it to<br />
the tank I spent<br />
some time flattening<br />
the piece with a<br />
small block of soft<br />
wood and a small<br />
hammer. Even finger<br />
pressure<br />
worked. Polish the<br />
brass with some<br />
fine sandpaper.<br />
Clean the tender<br />
body with thinner<br />
Brass Sheet with the rivets is an ERIE Berkshire smokebox wrapper.<br />
and use some sandpaper to get rid of<br />
anything that would keep solder from<br />
adhering. Spread<br />
rosin flux on the<br />
two pieces. By<br />
4<br />
the way, make<br />
sure the lacquer<br />
thinner has evaporated.<br />
It’s very<br />
flammable.<br />
Start at the<br />
tender rear. Position<br />
the tank in<br />
the center of the<br />
wrapper. Bend the sides along the tank<br />
side. Make sure the bottom edge lines<br />
up with the bottom of the tank. Put a<br />
spring clamp or two to hold the two<br />
pieces together. Alignment is critical at<br />
this point to keep the wrapper square to<br />
the tank. Heat the work with a small<br />
torch and hold 60/40 solder to the joints<br />
at the bottom and the top. Keep the torch<br />
moving and the capillary action will pull<br />
the solder into the joint. Don’t overdo<br />
the application as you may have to undo<br />
it to straighten the whole thing out. You<br />
can always add more solder later. Bend<br />
the sides around the front water legs and<br />
repeat the process (Photo #4).<br />
It should be possible to locate the<br />
handrail holes from the inside of the<br />
tank with a scriber. Re-drill and solder<br />
the handrails in place. I didn’t make an<br />
impressed piece for the top of the tank,<br />
but that was personal choice — laziness.<br />
I also decided not to put a bead around<br />
the top edge of the finished tank<br />
although it would probably look better.<br />
The wrapper is clamped to the tank for soldering. The tin of Nokofode<br />
is at least 60 years old. The torch is fueled with Ronson lighter gas.<br />
The die cast frame is the original Varney<br />
design. It doesn’t need much work<br />
but it does afford the opportunity to use<br />
different trucks. What becomes important<br />
is the truck bolster height. If it’s<br />
higher than the original trucks you have<br />
to file down the mounting bosses. Of<br />
course, if lower, shim up the boss with<br />
brass washers. The idea here is to get the<br />
coupler height correct Depending on the<br />
truck bolster you might have to make<br />
your own shouldered screw by taking a<br />
screw, a washer and a piece of brass tubing<br />
all soldered together. Of course if<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 23
you’ve been at this for over 50 years like<br />
I have you save every shouldered screw<br />
you can get your hands on.<br />
The coupler mounting area is not<br />
milled out for a Kadee coupler box. If<br />
you have a vertical mill, no problem. It<br />
is possible to order the tender from Babbitt<br />
milled for the Kadee box for a nominal<br />
charge. If you can’t widen the area to<br />
take the draft gear box use the coupler<br />
without the box and rig a small spring to<br />
hold it straight. The corner steps that are<br />
included in the kit are the original Varney<br />
parts. Since they are held to the<br />
frame by 2-56 screws, it’s easy to substitute<br />
several different styles. If you have<br />
access to a Precision <strong>Scale</strong> catalog there<br />
are quite a few to choose from. It’s all<br />
builder’s choice. I got lazy again and<br />
used the kit steps.<br />
The rear ladder is easy to assemble<br />
with a touch of a soldering iron. You can<br />
locate the threaded holes to hold the bottom<br />
of the ladder to the tank or, since it’s<br />
now brass, solder it to the tank. Notice<br />
my ladder is missing. I screwed it up<br />
and I’ll have to order a new one. Well,<br />
no one’s infallible.<br />
Painting and lettering are not one of<br />
my happiest tasks. Obviously anything<br />
you’re going to paint must be clean and<br />
dry. I started with a good bath of lacquer<br />
thinner to get rid of all the flux residue. A<br />
good scrubbing with detergent helps too.<br />
Several light coats of paint are better than<br />
one heavy coat. Depending on the brand<br />
of paint I use I like to put heat on it to<br />
help it dry. Floquil especially likes to be<br />
baked. One easy way is to get an infrared<br />
bulb and place it several inches from<br />
the piece. Get one with a socket and wire<br />
guard. Those bulbs get mighty hot. I’ve<br />
found you can bake stuff for several<br />
hours and it really speeds up drying time.<br />
Lettering? Well, since this engine will<br />
undoubtedly end up on a railroad other<br />
than mine, I’ll let the recipient have all<br />
the fun of messing with decals, decal set<br />
and clear flat lacquer.<br />
If I were going to do this again I’d<br />
probably do the wrapper in two pieces.<br />
It would be easier to handle. I think I’d<br />
go to .008" brass and I’d make sure it<br />
was half hard or on the softer side. I<br />
probably would go to a smaller punch<br />
and die, too. If your local hobby shop<br />
can’t supply you with either .008" or<br />
.010" sheet brass try Special Shapes Co.<br />
They stock sheet brass in convenient 6"<br />
x 12" sheets.<br />
After all this nonsense I must tell you<br />
that the diecast tender supplied with the<br />
Weaver 2-8-0 is available separately and<br />
would probably go quite well with the<br />
Babbitt Atlantic. It sells for around $110<br />
plus $10 shipping. But think of all the<br />
FUN you would miss! Especially the<br />
part about dropping a blob of hot solder<br />
in your lap while wearing shorts. That’s<br />
the usual mode of dress in my workshop.<br />
As a final comment, there has been a<br />
lot of talk about inexpensive smaller<br />
locomotives. It doesn’t take a master<br />
modeler to build a Babbitt kit. The<br />
opportunity to detail them is almost endless.<br />
Armed with<br />
a Precision <strong>Scale</strong><br />
catalog and a little<br />
imagination,<br />
a very credible<br />
locomotive can<br />
be built. Maybe<br />
it’s not equal to<br />
imported brass,<br />
but it’s at a cost<br />
that is quite<br />
manageable.<br />
Besides, put a<br />
locomotive on<br />
the rails with a<br />
train and the<br />
only way you<br />
handrail<br />
location<br />
can see how detailed it is would be to<br />
stop it and inspect it for half hour.<br />
Now, it’s time to get back to building<br />
Erie Berkshires! After all, that’s what I<br />
made that trailing truck for! (See<br />
OST#7).<br />
Resources:<br />
Accurate O <strong>Scale</strong>, 38623 Orchard St.,<br />
Cherry Valley CA 92223<br />
Micro-Mark, 340 Snyder Ave, Berkeley<br />
Heights NJ 07922, www.micromark.com<br />
North West Short Line, PO Box 423,<br />
Seattle WA 98111, www.nwsl.com<br />
Precision <strong>Scale</strong> Co., PO Box 278,<br />
Stevensville, MT 59870, 406-777-5071<br />
Special Shapes Co., P.O.Box 7487,<br />
Romeoville, Illinois, 60446-0487,<br />
Phone 1-800-51-SHAPE. ◆<br />
double row or<br />
rivets-staggered<br />
double row or<br />
rivets-staggered<br />
single row<br />
of rivets<br />
single row<br />
of rivets<br />
notch for<br />
front deck<br />
24 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
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SS FM Trainmaster, C/P SP Bloody Nose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1,295.00<br />
OL GN 2-D-2 #5001/5002 Set, C/P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2,495.00<br />
USH SD45, C/P SP, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $695.00<br />
USH #401 48' Gondola,N/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $149.00<br />
USH #305 Single Dome Tank w/Platform, N/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $149.00<br />
MG #702 3-Bay Hopper, Rnd End, N/P, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $199.00<br />
USH #705 Panel Hopper, N/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $199.00<br />
USH #402 52' Gondola, N/P, NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $149.00<br />
USH #302 D. Dome Tank, N/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $139.00<br />
PSC#16059-1, 2-Bay C&O Hopper, F/P C&O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $195.00<br />
USH #505 2-Bay Composite Hopper, N/P, OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $149.00<br />
PL#300 PRR R-7 Reefer, C/P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $295.00<br />
Priester Custom Built Morrell Reefers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .each $159.00<br />
MG #120 TT Flats,C/P PRR w/USH RB Tks(25 available) . . . . . . .each $129.00<br />
PRB 60’ Greenville Boxcars,Various Roads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .each $300.00<br />
PRB 62’ PC&F Boxcars,Various Roads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .each $300.00<br />
MG PRR N8 Caboose,N/P,NOB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $250.00<br />
PSC PRR Stock Car,N/P,OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $250.00<br />
OM#0752 NP Caboose,C/P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $375.00<br />
Alco PRR N6a,C/P or N/P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .each 225.00<br />
ALW ATSF Chief Pullmans/Diner/Observation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .each 475.00<br />
CB PRR N8 Caboose,N/P,OB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $295.00<br />
PRB 50’ Boxcars SD,End Door & DD Kits,Undec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $37.50<br />
PRB 50’ Boxcars,Built,DD,End Door,SD,C&O/B&O/PM/WM . . . . . . . . . . $47.50<br />
(UP & ATSF End Door/ CB&Q & Erie S.Door)<br />
Estates⁄Liquidations<br />
Collection Reductions<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 25
Building<br />
A PRR<br />
N2sa<br />
2-10-2<br />
N2sa w/tank cars, courtesy PRR,<br />
J. Giannovario collection<br />
Text and models by John Sauers<br />
Illustrations by Carey Hinch<br />
During World War 1 American railroads were taken over by<br />
a government agency, The United States Railroad Administration<br />
(USRA). Under USRA control, railroads were prohibited<br />
from developing any new locomotives. Instead, the USRA<br />
designed standard classes of locomotives: 0-6-0, 0-8-0, 2-8-2,<br />
2-10-2 light and heavy, 4-6-2 light and heavy, 4-8-2 light and<br />
heavy, 2-6-6-2, 2-8-8-2. All were equipped with radial stay<br />
fireboxes.<br />
The demand on the Pennsylvania RR was so great during<br />
the war that they could not keep up without acquiring additional<br />
locomotives. In 1918 and 1919 they took delivery of<br />
120 USRA 2-10-2 heavy locomotives, and classified them as<br />
N2s. This group served the PRR well and after the war they<br />
acquired an additional 10 engines. The N2’s were used across<br />
the Pennsy system.<br />
In fact, the PRR liked them enough to rebuild them in 1923.<br />
They cut away the radial stay fireboxes and replaced them<br />
with Belpaire fireboxes and PRR standard smokebox fronts.<br />
These locomotives were reclassified as N2sa. I have always<br />
wanted to build an N2sa with a long-haul tender. I eventually<br />
found a photo of #8919 showing an N2sa with this type of tender.<br />
However, most N2sa’s kept their as-delivered USRA tenders.<br />
Some of those USRA tenders were rebuilt by the PRR to<br />
increase coal capacity.<br />
Since there has never been a USRA 2-10-2 made in O<br />
scale, I had to scratch-and parts-build this locomotive. So, let’s<br />
get started. The first thing we need is a set of plans. I looked<br />
everywhere for a set and was unable to find any. I took a drawing<br />
of a USRA heavy 2-10-2 from a Locomotive Cyclopedia<br />
and modified it by adding the Belpaire and a few other Pennsy<br />
details (Fig A next page). Don’t worry about the valve gear.<br />
We will use a different type than in the drawing.<br />
Frame<br />
The frame and drivers were made by Locomotive Workshop.<br />
We will use the same technique to complete the frames<br />
as we used on the PRR E1 buildup (OST#7). Solder the<br />
springs to the top of the frame, one over each driver (Fig B).<br />
Fabricate the equalizers that will go in the frame cutouts. Sol-<br />
FRAME<br />
Fig B.<br />
DRILL FOR .040”<br />
CAST BOLTS<br />
ALL LOCATIONS<br />
26 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
Fig A. General Arrangement PRR N2sa 2-10-2<br />
This drawing is 70% of actual O scale size.<br />
der the equalizers in place. Next attach long bars from the<br />
springs to the rockers.<br />
Now, assemble the two sides of the frame and install the<br />
drivers. Make sure you order crescent counter weights on the<br />
drivers. Set the frame aside and we will start the boiler.<br />
Boiler<br />
Using the templates provided (Figs C & D) cut the boiler<br />
sections from .015" brass and bend to shape (photo 2). Do the<br />
Belpaire first. Carefully draw the lines for bending and shape<br />
smokebox<br />
#1<br />
1st after<br />
smokebox<br />
#2<br />
N2SA #3<br />
Fig C.<br />
Half size for O scale<br />
#5<br />
N2SA #4<br />
Fig D.<br />
Half size for O scale<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 27
Fig G.<br />
CUT<br />
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5<br />
WIDTH DETERMINED<br />
BY BOILER<br />
1 ROW<br />
2 ROWS<br />
RIVETS<br />
Fig E.<br />
#6<br />
FOLD<br />
BOILER<br />
Photo 2<br />
DIAMOND<br />
TREAD<br />
FRAME<br />
Photo 4<br />
the Belpaire (Part #5 in Fig D). The front of the Belpaire will<br />
be made by soldering brass across the top of the boiler and filing<br />
it to shape.<br />
I usually solder a piece of brass to the inside of each course<br />
so half of it is sticking out to attach the next course. I use 1 /4<br />
inch wide pieces. Start with the Belpaire. Solder the next<br />
course to it and continue foreword until you are at the course<br />
just before the smoke box (Part #2 in Fig C).<br />
Insert the smoke box into this course and solder it in place.<br />
Make sure it is perfectly round.<br />
Now go back and solder the front pieces to the firebox<br />
(Part#6 in Fig E). These I usually make up by pressing rivets<br />
in carefully placed rows. Bend to match the front of the firebox.<br />
Add a piece of brass to the back of the boiler for the backhead.<br />
We will detail this later.<br />
Your boiler should now look like Fig E.<br />
Cab<br />
The template for the cab is shown in Fig F. Lay out the rivets<br />
and emboss them. Carefully cut out the cab, cab front and<br />
cab rear out of .020" brass. (BTW, this is a "stock" USRA cab<br />
and drawings for it can be found in many references.) The<br />
windows must be cut out and window frames made. The<br />
USRA windows have more sections than typical Pennsy windows.<br />
These are drilled first then filed to desired shape. The<br />
front of the cab is attached to the boiler.<br />
Using the template for the cab floor (Fig G), cut out as<br />
shown and bend at the proper places (Photo 4). Solder to the<br />
boiler. Don't worry about the space where the floor goes. Bend<br />
a piece of brass to fit and solder it to the inside of the cab.<br />
Photo 5 shows the completed cab. Detail the cab interior to<br />
suit. The cab will be removable to allow full cab details to be<br />
added. Form the cab sides and solder the back wall in place.<br />
Now solder the window frames from the inside. The USRA<br />
cabs have a vent that runs the length of the cab on top. In addition,<br />
the two hatches slide foreword. I almost goofed here as<br />
continued on page38<br />
Fig F.<br />
Cab - Half size for O scale<br />
Photo 5.<br />
Photo 3<br />
28 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
Pennsy hatches slide to the rear. (See Harry Hieke's articles in<br />
OST#1, #2 and #3 for details on making windows that slide<br />
and roof hatches that work - Ed.)<br />
Cylinders<br />
Solid brass cylinders can be obtained from Locomotive<br />
Workshop. On my model I cut out the front and rear of the<br />
cylinder chest. The cylinder heads and valve heads are from<br />
Locomotive Workshop (Photo 6). Assemble per Fig H. Solder<br />
a cast nut and washer to the center of the cylinder head and<br />
add the valve guides.<br />
Photo 6<br />
Fig. I.<br />
POWER REVERSE<br />
RIGHT SIDE<br />
RIGHT SIDE<br />
LEFT SIDE<br />
LIFTING LINK<br />
model. The amount of detail you elect to put on your model is<br />
your choice. I find I want to apply everything I can. I study lots of<br />
photos and end up drawing what I intend to put on my project.<br />
Let’s begin with running boards. I take engraved running<br />
board and solder .015" brass to the bottom, to give it some<br />
strength. Solder the running boards to the sides being careful<br />
to keep them straight. On this project the boards are straight<br />
with no breaks for air tanks. After soldering the boards in,<br />
place I added the tank brackets in Fig J to the top of the boards.<br />
Fig. H<br />
VALVE<br />
HEADS<br />
CROSSHEAD<br />
GUIDES<br />
Fig. J<br />
STRAPS .010”<br />
2 EACH TANK<br />
SADDLE<br />
BACK<br />
BOILER<br />
CYLINDER<br />
HEAD<br />
STEAM<br />
EXHAUST<br />
TUBING<br />
TUBING TO LENGTH<br />
FRONT<br />
SMALL<br />
WASHOUT<br />
PLUGS<br />
WIRE UNION<br />
SHAPED USING<br />
DRILL & FILE<br />
WRAPPER<br />
NUT &<br />
WASHER<br />
CASTINGS<br />
CYLINDER<br />
HEAD<br />
TANK BRACKETS<br />
WALKWAY<br />
Valve Gear & Rods<br />
The valve gear hangers are made using the drawing in Fig I.<br />
Most of the valve gear is from Williams PRR locos. The<br />
crosshead is from a Williams locomotive while the main and<br />
side rods from a USH PRR I-1, 2-10-0. Assemble the side rods<br />
on the drivers and make sure the mechanism is free of any<br />
binds. Attach the cylinder and the valve gear. Make adjustments<br />
so the mechanism runs free by hand. After you are satisfied<br />
add the motor and gear box and run it in.<br />
Details, Details, Details...<br />
This is the part of model building that makes or breaks your<br />
This figure also shows how I make air tanks. The brackets<br />
would normally attach to the tanks, but here we are only giving<br />
that impression. I add angle brass to the sides of the running<br />
boards.<br />
Handrails are next. On this engine the stanchions are "U"<br />
shaped to receive the handrail and have nuts and bolts going<br />
through them. These are available from Precision <strong>Scale</strong> Co.<br />
Figure K shows the piping details and tank arrangement. I<br />
marked each point where I added a cast union. The power<br />
reverse goes on the right side.<br />
This N2sa, as modeled, represents a later PRR engine so<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 29
POWER REVERSE<br />
GENERATOR<br />
STEAM<br />
HEADLIGHT<br />
Fig. K<br />
11 UNIONS<br />
FRONT<br />
AIR PUMP<br />
CAB<br />
FIREBOX<br />
SMALL<br />
LINES<br />
FRONT<br />
LEFT SIDE<br />
INJECTOR<br />
2 LINES 2 LINES<br />
FRONT<br />
GENERATOR<br />
HEADLIGHT<br />
CAB<br />
NUT/BOLT CASTING<br />
AND CLAMP DETAIL<br />
RIGHT SIDE<br />
1<br />
3<br />
Fig. M<br />
the details you would find on it would be similar to a PRR I-1<br />
2-10-0. My detail sketches are showing in Fig L (on page 40).<br />
Figure M shows how to wire up the headlight and generator.<br />
Cab detail depends upon you. I prefer that my models have<br />
as many details in the cab as on the boiler. (Photo 7 page 40).<br />
The lead truck and trailing truck can both be obtained from<br />
Precision <strong>Scale</strong> or Locomotive Workshop.<br />
The pilot is made from a square piece of brass with the ends<br />
rounded (Fig N). Steps are fabricated using .015" brass. The<br />
deck is made using engraved deck material. The steps to running<br />
boards are made from the same .015" brass. Add a train<br />
control box to the rear of the deck.<br />
Tender<br />
Now for some tender words. I hate building tenders. I<br />
acquired a US Hobbies PRR M1a long haul tender and used<br />
that. Both PFM and Sunset have imported a USRA heavy 4-8-<br />
2 in the past and a tender from one of those engines would do<br />
as well. All either needs is a doghouse. Both Precision <strong>Scale</strong><br />
and Locomotive Workshop offer kits.<br />
That’s it. Send it to the paint shop.<br />
◆<br />
Sources:<br />
Locomotive Workshop, 6 Appleby Dr., Helmetta NJ 08828,<br />
732-605-2780<br />
Precision <strong>Scale</strong> Co., PO Box 278, Stevensville MT 59870,<br />
406-777-5071<br />
Fig. N<br />
30 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
FRONT<br />
BLOWDOWN<br />
FRONT<br />
POP OFF<br />
VALVES<br />
ROOF DEFLECTOR<br />
RAIN GUTTER<br />
HANDRAIL<br />
HOOD<br />
ARMREST<br />
DISTRIBUTION VALVE<br />
TOP OF<br />
BELPAIR<br />
STARTER<br />
VALVE<br />
WASHOUT<br />
PLUGS<br />
BOTH SIDES<br />
JUST IN FRONT OF<br />
SAND DOME<br />
BOTH SIDES<br />
BRACKET<br />
SANDING VALVES<br />
FRONT<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 31
Crapola<br />
from the<br />
Cupola<br />
John C. Smith<br />
Pecos River Brass<br />
Continued from last issue...<br />
The next morning as per instructions, I<br />
got up after very little sleep, had another<br />
American Breakfast, and went back to my<br />
room. About 9:00 am I got a call<br />
from Ho Chul Lee. He spoke just<br />
enough English for us to communicate.<br />
I followed his instructions.<br />
I left the hotel lobby and turned<br />
right and proceeded to the corner.<br />
There, Ho Chul, Namh Il, and Ahn<br />
(I don’t remember his first name)<br />
met me with a taxi. I got in. We sped<br />
away to the subway, about a mile or two<br />
from the Hotel Koreana. We got out. There<br />
was little talking, so I just followed. We<br />
boarded the subway and headed South. We<br />
rode for some time, far South of Anyong<br />
City where the GangSan factory was. We<br />
got off the subway and hailed another cab.<br />
We rode for about 10 minutes and got out at<br />
a factory entrance, where Ahn went in the<br />
security fence to meet someone and get a<br />
key. We then walked about 6-8 blocks and<br />
knocked on a door of a residence. Someone<br />
there met us, wearing a suit, and I recognized<br />
him as one of the factory workers. It<br />
seems that wearing a suit has some kind of<br />
class distinction in Korea. I noticed that<br />
management in the factories wore suits and<br />
that meant achievement to them. A Korean<br />
worker will take title over salary every time,<br />
if he can wear a suit to work. I guess,<br />
because the American was here, and he was<br />
picked to help, he wore his suit that day.<br />
We unlocked the basement and down six<br />
steps were all the bits and pieces for my<br />
heavyweight passenger car project. We took<br />
all the boxes up to the apartment and opened<br />
the boxes. I took photos of my cars, half built,<br />
and PSC’s tank cars and Sunsets V&T steam<br />
locos. They were all there. We didn’t waste<br />
much time. We put it all back, and went back<br />
to the hotel somewhat the same way, only this<br />
time using a bus, taxi and subway. They left<br />
me at my hotel and disappeared.<br />
If I had thought about it more, I would<br />
have looked over my shoulder far more<br />
often. I didn’t realize what was happening to<br />
me. What they did was very dangerous.<br />
They could have been followed to the models<br />
and hurt very badly... me too. When I got<br />
back to the hotel, I went to my room and<br />
then, and only then, realized the danger that<br />
I might have been in. There were lots of<br />
messages from other builders wanting to<br />
meet with me. The word got out... a rich<br />
American is in Seoul looking for a builder<br />
and they all wanted to be that builder. Just<br />
think about it, an American that is desperate.<br />
They must have been drooling.<br />
Charlie had arrived. He was staying at a<br />
different hotel, the Westin Chosun, about 4<br />
blocks away and twice the price. Charlie had<br />
flown first class, and could afford the best.<br />
Charlie had been using Samhongsa for<br />
all his S <strong>Scale</strong> steam projects, but was having<br />
trouble with them and prices. They kept<br />
going up. Duh! Charlie was looking for<br />
another alternative. We visited six factories<br />
together. It was my only time to actually<br />
visit Samhongsa and I appreciated the difference<br />
immediately. Computers, digital<br />
machinery, uniforms, clean floor, departments,<br />
and, at that time, about 500 workers.<br />
They were the king. Se Yong Lee of<br />
Samhongsa and I were never able to come<br />
together on a project. We tried several times<br />
over the years but it just wasn’t meant to be.<br />
We visited Mr. O, of OCS Microcast<br />
(casting company) and he took us to MS<br />
Park. Park brought out model after model in<br />
S scale that they built for another importer.<br />
Charlie would say, I have 3 of those and<br />
none would run. I have 4 of those and only 2<br />
run. I have those and they don’t work. Park<br />
was getting frustrated. I took Charlie to the<br />
side and said to him, “Charlie, is Sam building<br />
you a great model?” He agreed, and so I<br />
told him to stay with Sam and pay the price.<br />
“Look at the MS quality. You don’t want<br />
that.” When we went back to where Mr. O<br />
and Mr. Park were sitting, Mr. O could see<br />
that Charlie was not liking what he was seeing,<br />
so he turned to me and asked, “...perhaps<br />
if you would be interested in business. I<br />
hear GangSan is no more.” I smiled.<br />
So, I said, “I thought MS Models had an<br />
exclusive agreement with Overland?” Mr. O<br />
said, ”Only verbal, nothing in writing. We<br />
will use another name and nobody will<br />
know.” I laughed, “Nobody will know?<br />
Everyone will know. There are no secrets<br />
over here.” I then said, “Isn’t your word your<br />
bond?” Then he said, perhaps it would be<br />
better if we didn’t do business. Mr. O has<br />
never forgiven me for that remark. Seems<br />
it’s OK to be dishonest as long as you don’t<br />
get caught. Charlie did business with Sam as<br />
long as he lived, and paid the higher price.<br />
One other note about this trip. Two different<br />
model builders met us at our hotel<br />
lobby, where we discussed general business<br />
ideas. As usual, we asked to visit the factory.<br />
Two different builders and two different<br />
companies, and both took us to the same<br />
factory! When we returned the second time,<br />
the factory workers must have thought, what<br />
in the hell are these guys doing back here.<br />
Neither builder knew we had been there<br />
twice, and we played along. It didn’t matter.<br />
I am sure that this was an assembly subcontractor<br />
and both companies used them as an<br />
assembly factory.<br />
What an odd place, Korea. ◆<br />
34 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
THE WORKSHOP<br />
[]\<br />
Tips from Neville Rossiter<br />
Perth, Australia<br />
Building Multiple Structures<br />
On my new modular layout each module has a theme. One of<br />
the themes is a “City Block” which required a number of structures<br />
to be built, a daunting task for one person with a deadline to meet<br />
for a show. Here is how I did it.<br />
After the structures were chosen for the module and put together<br />
with the base and walls, I cleared a space directly opposite my<br />
workbench and placed an old table for the structures and parts to<br />
finish them.<br />
I used the workbench for cutting and for making<br />
the odd part, and the table for final assembly<br />
and hand painting.<br />
I found that sitting between the bench and the<br />
table was very convenient and sped up the work.<br />
After the structures were finished the table was<br />
put out in the shed until needed again.<br />
I also used a lot of Pecos River Brass modular<br />
buildings. The hardest part of building the Pecos<br />
building modules is working out where the parts go.<br />
I would suggest to lay out all the parts separately<br />
on a table and either bundle them up with<br />
elastic bands or put them into containers (I used<br />
ice cream containers). That done, the flash can<br />
then be cleaned off and the parts squared.<br />
Now you are ready to start building. Lay all<br />
the parts out on a flat surface. I use my cutting<br />
table that has a large self-healing cutting mat that<br />
helps to stop the parts from slipping.<br />
When gluing the parts together it is important<br />
to use heavy weights to hold the parts square and<br />
inline while the glue is drying. The weights, if<br />
heavy enough, act like clamps between the parts<br />
and the mat.<br />
I prefer to use “frosted glass” for the windows<br />
instead of the clear plastic that is supplied. For<br />
this, I cut up plastic milk bottles into rectangles<br />
for the window glass.<br />
◆<br />
Workbench with tools and cutting board.<br />
Overall view of the area, showing the bench, chair, and the table.<br />
PRB modular building<br />
Table with the structures waiting to be finished.<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 35
O <strong>Scale</strong> DCC<br />
DCC - Sound<br />
Ted Byrne<br />
Block Detection with DCC Command Control<br />
DCC, and the other command control systems that<br />
use AC on the tracks, make block detection simple.<br />
Why would you want block detection?<br />
• An obvious reason is to control grade crossing<br />
warnings (lights, gates, bells).<br />
• Another reason is to control block signaling<br />
lights. For example you might have threeaspect<br />
lights that show red if the next block is<br />
occupied, yellow/orange if the second block<br />
ahead is occupied, and green if both blocks are<br />
free.<br />
•A third reason is to control remote lights, such<br />
as a CTC board, an indicator for hidden or staging<br />
tracks, or as a personal computer input.<br />
•A fourth reason is to control sound systems that<br />
are triggered by the passing of a train, such as<br />
station sounds.<br />
•A fifth reason is to control reversing loop<br />
power automatically.<br />
You can think of more reasons.<br />
Recall that a block is a section of track that has at<br />
least one rail isolated (gapped) and is fed power by a<br />
dedicated wire. Block detection goes way back, but the<br />
classic method was Linn Wescott’s Twin-T detector<br />
described in Model Railroader 1958. Block detection<br />
with DCC is a cinch because it is easier to detect AC than<br />
DC. You just loop the block feed wire through a transformer<br />
on the detection circuit (probably looped several<br />
turns). There is no electrical connection between the<br />
track power and the detection circuit power so there is<br />
no decrease in train speed and no possibility of sneak<br />
connections between blocks.<br />
DCC block detection is also nicer because the track<br />
power is always ON even when the train has stopped. So<br />
you don’t get the situation where a lowered crossing<br />
gate doesn’t go back up when the train stops because<br />
there is no track power to signal them.<br />
There are several sources for block detection devices,<br />
but I use the unit described in May, 2000 Model Railroader,<br />
page 90: “The DCC Optimized Detector”. The<br />
article describes the device, which is about a big as a<br />
cigarette pack, and tells how to build it yourself. They also give<br />
options to buy it assembled or to buy a complete parts kit and<br />
assemble it yourself. I find collecting the onesy-twosy parts a<br />
pain so I like buying the complete kit of parts. The kit is item<br />
DCCOD kit and is sold by EASEE Interfaces, 801 Bryson<br />
Loop, Lakeland Florida 33809-8702. Each detector costs $14<br />
and there is a one-time shipping/handling charge of $6. You<br />
can assemble this if you are familiar with soldering small parts<br />
and have the tools and are careful. Have a magnifying glass or<br />
loupe as the part markings or colors are very small. Remember<br />
some parts have a + and - end. By the way, if you build it yourself,<br />
be aware that there is an error in the electrical circuit diagram<br />
that is corrected on page 10 in Model Railroader July,<br />
2000 issue.<br />
The device is fine as it is, but I made two changes. First I<br />
used larger wire to thread through the transformer than the #22<br />
wire that they supply. They say their wire will support up to 20<br />
amps but I wanted less voltage drop.<br />
Second, I didn’t use the connector they supply to plug the<br />
unit into a group container which is used to place all the detectors<br />
next to your bank of block detection switches. I have<br />
blocks, but no block switches, so I put each unit right under the<br />
track board where power connects to the track with a power<br />
supply and relay next to it.<br />
Block detection depends on the train drawing some, but not<br />
much, current. DCC-equipped locomotives, passenger cars<br />
with lights, and a caboose with marker lights are no problem. If<br />
all your trains are shorter than the block length that is all there<br />
is to it. The article describes other options such as conductive<br />
paint on car axles and resistors soldered across the axle<br />
between the wheels.<br />
This detector has the nice characteristic that it has a turn-on<br />
delay of 0.25 second and a turn-off delay of 3.5 seconds. You<br />
don’t get false chattering because of dirt on rails or wheels. The<br />
output is a transistor that can be used to energize a small relay or<br />
lights. The Radio Shack 275-206 relay is one possible choice.<br />
The whole unit uses a little more power than the relay or other<br />
output devices. It does need 12 volts of fairly clean DC,but one<br />
small power unit can run many block detectors.<br />
I would be interested in hearing what you use block detection<br />
for and will discuss applications in a future column if there<br />
is interest.<br />
◆<br />
36 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
Narrow<br />
Minded<br />
Bobber Gibbs<br />
3 New O <strong>Scale</strong> Narrow Gauge Locomotives Arriving Soon<br />
This is a great time for O <strong>Scale</strong> narrow gauge modeling as<br />
no less than three new ready-to-run locomotives are expected<br />
to be available in the immediate future.<br />
According to the Bachmann <strong>Trains</strong> website, they should be<br />
shipping their new Spectrum On30 Davenport 0-4-0 critter<br />
(with counterweights and side rods) in the next few weeks.<br />
This late 1930's era gas mechanical features die-cast frame, 5-<br />
pole skew-wound motor, low-speed gearing, amber LED<br />
headlight, full cab interior and will be DCC-ready. It will be<br />
offered in the following roadnames: Greenbrier & Big Run<br />
Lumber, Pocahontas Lumber, Midwest Quarry & Mining,<br />
Colorado Mining, Little River Logging, and painted and unlettered.<br />
It was displayed at the National Narrow Gauge Convention<br />
in Colorado and, if it is as heavy and low-geared as<br />
conventioneers report, it looks like it will be another winner.<br />
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/index.html<br />
MSRP:$90.<br />
off, blower hiss and more. It will include a 5-pole can motor<br />
with flywheel, die-cast chassis, detailed tender underbody,<br />
backhead details, operating headlight, directional backup light<br />
and can operate on 18" radius curves. Due in November.<br />
http://www.broadway-limited.com/products/drgw.htm<br />
MSRP $270.<br />
Broadway Limited Imports announced their new On30 C-<br />
16 2-8-0 with sound, that can be operated with a standard DC<br />
power pack as well as with DCC. The C-16 was a generic narrow<br />
gauge locomotive and will be available in several paint<br />
schemes, including D&RGW, RGS, Mexico Lumber, NCNG,<br />
Montezuma Lumber, the Pennsylvania RR, CM&StP and<br />
unlettered. The factory installed Quantum sound system with<br />
dual speakers will feature chuff, whistle, bell, squealing<br />
brakes, Doppler effect, air release, air pumps, blow down, pop<br />
Precision <strong>Scale</strong>/Mountain Model Imports<br />
recently announced a new K-27 in On3 and On30<br />
in diecast and brass, painted, decaled and sound<br />
equipped, with lights, cab interior, and can motor. It<br />
will be available in D&RGW livery in several road<br />
numbers including 452, 453, 459, 462, 463, 464<br />
with choice of flying Rio Grande or D&RGW herald<br />
with green boiler. Expected early in 2004.<br />
MSRP $439.<br />
It is interesting that PS/MMI may import 1,500<br />
K-27 models in On3 and 5,000 in On30, due to the<br />
growing interest in On30.<br />
Note that all three ready-to-run locomotives will be painted<br />
and DCC-ready and both of the larger locomotives will be<br />
equipped with sound, which is a recent and welcome trend in<br />
our hobby. These are certainly great times for O <strong>Scale</strong> narrow<br />
gauge model railroading. (Photos of the K-27 are not yet available.)<br />
More, soon.<br />
Bobber<br />
◆<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 37
An Overview of SONC 2004<br />
The 2004 O <strong>Scale</strong> National Convention will be held in the<br />
Nation’s Capital on the 22nd through the 25th of July. At the<br />
National, you’ll see old friends, get your arms around both<br />
new O <strong>Scale</strong> products and that classic old piece you’ve been<br />
trying to find for years, and have the opportunity to learn from<br />
some of the scale’s masters. Not only will you be able to visit<br />
John Armstrong’s Canandaigua Southern and Ed Rappe’s<br />
basement sized Pennsy, but you’ll see Doug Jones’ wizardry in<br />
a small space, and several creative modular layouts in the hall.<br />
There will be plenty to inspire you, and we’ll look at some of<br />
these railroads in a later issue of OST.<br />
A convention in Washington is just a little different than<br />
you’ve been used to. Here is an opportunity, not only to attend<br />
the Convention, but also to bring your family for a wonderfully<br />
educational vacation.<br />
If traveling by air, you’ll fly down the Potomac River to<br />
Reagan National Airport, with direct shuttle service to the<br />
hotel in Crystal City, Virginia. While you are prowling the<br />
halls and checking out the clinics, your family can head into<br />
town to see the White House, the Capitol, and all the monuments<br />
just by availing themselves of the hotel’s ability to<br />
arrange a variety of DC tours to suit any interest.<br />
If traveling by car, there are opportunities for you to stop on<br />
your way and visit several places of interest to the railroad<br />
enthusiast, such as the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad,<br />
Cass, Strasburg, Horseshoe Curve and the Altoona Railroader’s<br />
Museum, and The National Capital Trolley Museum.<br />
Then it’s arrival at the hotel for four days packed full of fun<br />
and adventure, with the Capital Area O <strong>Scale</strong>rs as your hosts.<br />
On your way home, your family may want to visit Lancaster,<br />
and Pennsylvania Amish Country, or maybe head South to see<br />
George Washington’s Mount Vernon, or Thomas Jefferson’s<br />
home at Monticello. Close by are also the great battlefields of<br />
the American Civil War, such as Antietam, Gettysburg, Manassas,<br />
Fredericksburg, and Petersburg.<br />
Travel by rail is a viable option, the only choice for the true<br />
red-blooded railfan. You’ll pull into the wonderfully restored<br />
Washington Union Station, then take the DC Metro system out<br />
to the Crystal City Metro stop, where a complimentary shuttle<br />
can be had to take you to the hotel close-by.<br />
38 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03<br />
The Metro system makes access to the sights in town easy<br />
and enjoyable. Take advantage of it, for quick self-guided visit<br />
to places like the Smithsonian’s Air and Space Museum, or the<br />
Museum of American History. For the artist in the family,<br />
there’s the National Gallery of Art and the Corcoran Gallery,<br />
each with both permanent and visiting exhibits on display. If<br />
nature is of interest, the National Zoo, National Aquarium, and<br />
the National Arboretum are requirements, perhaps followed by<br />
a visit to the Museum of Natural History. All of these may be<br />
reached by using the Metro rail system.<br />
Currently in the works, for those of the railroad persuasion,<br />
are tours of Metro’s shops and maintenance facilities, and<br />
Amtrak’s Union Station/ Ivy City facility. Also planned are<br />
bus trips up to Baltimore and the B&O Museum at the classic<br />
Mt. Clare shops. This trip is contingent on the museum reopening<br />
after last winter’s roof collapse, however, so stay<br />
tuned.<br />
Washington DC is indeed, one of the most educational, historical,<br />
and culturally rich cities in the world. Take some extra<br />
time with your family and come, not only to the Convention,<br />
but also for an experience your family will remember for years<br />
to come.<br />
In the next issue, we’ll look at the events during the Convention,<br />
itself. Meanwhile, contact the Capital Area O <strong>Scale</strong>rs<br />
for their flyer, “Washington: 50 Things to Do and See”. While<br />
your family is quickly filling the itinerary with ideas and<br />
“must-see” sites, you’ll want to check out the “2004 O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
National Convention” flyer for clinics, contests, tours, layouts,<br />
and railfanning opportunities. Also, you’ll want to fondle one<br />
of the special Convention cars in the privacy of your own<br />
home. Already available is the Red Caboose wood reefer lettered<br />
for Fruit Grower’s Express, and Atlas-O will be shipping<br />
the Richmond, Fredericksburg, and Potomac (the boxcar red<br />
scheme!) USRA outside braced boxcars very soon. Just email<br />
sonc2004@hotmail.com, or write to:<br />
Capital Area O <strong>Scale</strong>rs<br />
2004 O <strong>Scale</strong> National Convention<br />
10401 Grandin Rd.<br />
Silver Spring, MD 20902<br />
For hotel info, and reservations, be sure you mention the<br />
2004 O <strong>Scale</strong> National Convention when you contact:<br />
Hyatt Regency, Crystal City at Reagan National Airport<br />
2799 Jefferson Davis Highway<br />
Arlington, VA 22202<br />
1-800-233-1234<br />
“See you for a Capital Convention!”<br />
◆
Now Available From O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
A Guide To Modern O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
by Brian Scace<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
presents<br />
A Guide To Modern<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
by Brian Scace<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
<strong>Trains</strong><br />
These ain’t yer Daddy’s trains!<br />
For the first time, here is a guide to O<br />
scale two rail. This book was written<br />
by O scale modelers with years of<br />
experience in the hobby and they share<br />
that experience with wit and wisdom.<br />
We’ll show you how to get started in 2<br />
rail O <strong>Scale</strong>, what you need and where<br />
to get it.<br />
Of particular use is the list of<br />
Resources at the end of each chapter.<br />
Get your copy today from your local O<br />
scale hobby shop or direct from O<br />
<strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong>, just $14.95 plus $3 s&h.<br />
VISA & Mastercard Accepted.<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong><br />
PO Box 238<br />
Lionville PA 19353-0238<br />
610-363-7117<br />
Here’s a peek at the Table of Contents:<br />
1. Welcome, and a little History<br />
2. Concept of Operation<br />
3. Locomotives<br />
4. Rolling Stock and Couplers<br />
5. Space Prep and Benchwork<br />
6. Track and Track Plans<br />
with Joe Giannovario<br />
7. Structures and Scenery<br />
with Neville Rossiter<br />
8. Wiring and Control Systems<br />
with Ted Byrne<br />
9. Narrow Gauge<br />
with Bobber Gibbs<br />
10. Consider Traction<br />
11. Proto 48<br />
with Gene Deimling<br />
12. Tools<br />
with Neville Rossiter<br />
13. Useful Tables, Tips,<br />
and Short Notes<br />
14. Sources, Conventions,<br />
and Meets<br />
15. Glossary of Terms<br />
Washington, DC<br />
July 22-25<br />
Hyatt Regency, Crystal City<br />
at Reagan National Airport<br />
2 0 0 4<br />
‘0’ <strong>Scale</strong> National Convention<br />
The Capital Area ‘0’ <strong>Scale</strong>rs cordially invite you and your<br />
family to join us in Washington, DC, for the 2004 ‘0’ <strong>Scale</strong><br />
National Convention. The White House, the Capitol, and<br />
many world class museums and monuments can be seen in this<br />
beautiful, attraction-rich city. The 2004 ‘0’ <strong>Scale</strong> National<br />
Convention hotel is conveniently located for access to all of the<br />
most popular sites.<br />
We have a host of activities planned for your enjoyment.<br />
The Convention features more than twenty ‘0’ scale layouts<br />
including John Armstrong’s Canandaigua Southern, Ed Rappé’s<br />
Pennsylvania RR with an impressive view of Horseshoe Curve,<br />
and Tony Lash’s spectacular hi-rail empire. There will be a<br />
fantastic trade show for buying, selling and<br />
swapping, clinics, and model and switching<br />
contests. Numerous railfanning<br />
opportunities and good times<br />
with new and old friends are certain<br />
to top off your convention experience.<br />
Linking 1/4” <strong>Scale</strong> Modelers<br />
2004 SONC<br />
0<br />
Capital Area<br />
SCALERS<br />
Five ways to get more info<br />
regarding the 2004 ‘0’ <strong>Scale</strong><br />
National Convention<br />
• Visit us on the web at<br />
www.2004onational.com<br />
for information and<br />
registration forms.<br />
• E-mail us at<br />
sonc2004@hotmail.com<br />
• Look for articles and registration<br />
forms to be included<br />
in future issues of 0 <strong>Scale</strong><br />
<strong>Trains</strong> magazine.<br />
• Visit our display at shows.<br />
• Write to:<br />
Capital Area ‘0’ <strong>Scale</strong>rs<br />
P.O. Box 42563<br />
Washington, D.C. 20015<br />
Show Cars Use convention registration form to order. Limited number. First reserved, first served.<br />
Atlas 40’ USRA outside-braced box car. Exclusive run. Boxcar red lettered “RF&P”.<br />
Red Caboose 40’ Fruit Growers Express reefer. Exclusive run. Four color paint with<br />
silver roofs. (Available Now)<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 39
40 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
Reader Feedback<br />
Moving Over From 3 Rail<br />
I am a recent subscriber, after having<br />
found a copy of this magazine at a local<br />
newsstand. I like the magazine. It has a<br />
great friendly “feel” to it. As a newcomer<br />
to O scale from 3 rail, many O scale publications<br />
come off as snobbish, but your<br />
magazine, rather than denigrating 3 rail<br />
trains, seems to have the right idea; use the<br />
increasing emphasis on detail in 3 rail<br />
trains to get those detail interested 3-railers<br />
like me to “lose that 3rd rail” and go scale.<br />
Okay, I love the “Crapola from the<br />
Cupola” section. It is really neat to learn<br />
how the crazy brass trains business works.<br />
I also like scratchbuilding, and kitbashing<br />
articles, as well as the 3 to 2 rail conversion<br />
articles. I still have a ton of 3 rail<br />
stuff, I would rather convert and modify<br />
what is appropriate rather than start from<br />
scratch. Yes, some will have to go, but<br />
there are some 3 rail items that can be<br />
converted/kitbashed, and/or detailed for<br />
scale.<br />
Keep up the pressure for a 2 rail starter<br />
set. I agree that 2 rail sectioned track is the<br />
key. This will allow more converts from<br />
both 3 rail and HO. There is no way that I<br />
will be hand laying track.<br />
I know that many are concerned with<br />
the Atlas RTR stuff, but frankly, I cannot<br />
afford all brass equipment. In order to<br />
grow, and attract newcomers, there must<br />
be a certain amount of O scale affordable,<br />
mass produced product.<br />
BTW: Yes, there is a “greying” of O<br />
<strong>Scale</strong>, but I am only 38, and just love it!!<br />
Fred Talasco (via email)<br />
Joe G. says: Thanks for your comments.<br />
I think more and more 3 rail modelers<br />
will be coming over to 2 rail. If you<br />
think about how the 3 rail market has<br />
moved closer and closer to 1:48 scale<br />
models and away from toy trains, it just<br />
seems logical that the final extension of<br />
this “scale movement” is 2 rail track. As<br />
for affordable brass, take a look at the<br />
Sunset High Iron announcement in the<br />
Product News and Reviews section of this<br />
issue.<br />
Who Built That?<br />
I’d like to wave my arms a bit, and the<br />
cover shot on issue 9 will serve as a<br />
launch pad. I doubt if I will get airborne,<br />
but here goes: That beautiful AC-5 won<br />
first place at O <strong>Scale</strong> West, and is a testimony<br />
to the expertise of Sunset’s Korean<br />
craftsmen. The windows and a skillfully<br />
applied coat of weathered black were<br />
added after purchase, and really make the<br />
model look great. I don’t know for sure<br />
that it is a factory painted import, but I<br />
have in front of me an identical model,<br />
complete to the engine number, and the<br />
details track right down to the rivet patterns<br />
and numbers of rivets per line. I<br />
have heard of rivet-counters; I always<br />
thought it was a joke.<br />
Second place was a beautiful scratch<br />
built model by Alf Modine. Alf has been<br />
entering the OSW contest for years, and<br />
has repeatedly placed second or third,<br />
often behind Japanese and Korean<br />
imports. I felt so strongly about Alf winning<br />
a first place that I voted for him<br />
instead of me. So did my wife, who had<br />
her own ballot. I don’t know what the<br />
margin of victory is, but I know it is<br />
always close—nobody I know ever visits<br />
the contest room, let alone votes!<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong> West does not separate purchased<br />
models from kit and scratch-built<br />
models in the contest room. They do a<br />
tremendous job of putting on a convention,<br />
and the work those guys do is appreciated<br />
by all of us. And there is probably<br />
nothing wrong with comparing the skill<br />
of a scratch-builder with that of a massproducer.<br />
In fact, it might be incentive for<br />
the scratch builder to improve his or her<br />
skill level. But I gotta tell you, I will never<br />
have the time, resources, or skill to do<br />
what Sunset does. Sure, I get my boiler<br />
contours closer to the actual prototype,<br />
but those details! Even with Dennis and<br />
Kathy Mashburn helping [with castings],<br />
I’ll never come close to that AC-5. But<br />
there is a difference! A scratch or kit<br />
builder is displaying his or her own handiwork,<br />
and in the contest environment, is<br />
seeking recognition for that work. A purchaser<br />
is not looking for the same thing.<br />
At best, a purchaser is saying “Hey, look!<br />
Isn’t this neat?” Taking a ribbon home for<br />
a factory painted import doesn’t sound<br />
like a very satisfying thing to me. Don’t<br />
get me wrong; the weathered grey and<br />
windows were quite well done, and the<br />
painter deserves credit. But the credit for<br />
the locomotive belongs elsewhere.<br />
I hope you don’t mind my suggesting<br />
that the builder should be indicated when<br />
you use a model for your cover shot. Not<br />
only would that be good for the builder<br />
and importer (in this case an important<br />
advertiser), but it would help your readers<br />
and would be more effective journalism.<br />
All that aside, the cover shot is a keeper!<br />
That model is gorgeous!<br />
I have a couple of additional thoughts.<br />
Power packs are a problem for O <strong>Scale</strong>rs.<br />
I recommend a combination of a good<br />
low-power auto transformer and a 24v<br />
high power stepdown transformer. I use a<br />
small Stacor auto transformer (last price<br />
was $17, but that was a while ago) and a<br />
surplus stepdown. I follow that up with an<br />
inexpensive rectifier and a giant capacitor,<br />
with circuit protection on both ends and<br />
meters and switches at the output. My test<br />
transformer also has an AC output for hirail<br />
stuff. That generally gives me about<br />
18v at 6 amps, but I use a 3 amp breaker.<br />
You need the higher voltage for older O<br />
<strong>Scale</strong> (Lobaugh and K&D) and the new<br />
can motors can take it if you want.<br />
Nice article on pickle cars. I’d build<br />
one if I didn’t already have one. I am tickled<br />
to see Roger Jenkins with a regular<br />
column. And Gene Deimling is one of my<br />
heroes. He published the definitive work<br />
on SP 0-6-0s. Bob Stevenson is thinking<br />
of a kit for such models; since I have built<br />
six, I’m hoping I can help. And I agree<br />
with Brian Scace on several counts: My<br />
test layout is a full 56" high on the outside<br />
loop pair; and I 100% agree with his<br />
thoughts on product reviews. Wait ‘till<br />
you see my latest! I have been known to<br />
skip a review when the product completely<br />
misses the mark.<br />
Keep up the good work – and again<br />
thanks for fixing my subscription in such<br />
a rapid fashion.<br />
Regards, Bob Turner, San Diego<br />
Joe G. responds: Bob, thanks for the<br />
comments. Not being an fan of western<br />
steam I did not realize the AC-5 was a<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 41
ecent import. And, as the model contest at<br />
OSW is by “popular vote,” I’ll bet many of<br />
the voters didn’t know as well. I always try<br />
to identify the models in the magazine,<br />
especially on our covers. I thought, as<br />
many did, that the model was scratchbuilt.<br />
At the O <strong>Scale</strong> National, the contest was<br />
judged. Does that help? I don't have the<br />
answer but I do agree that a brass import<br />
winning First Prize in a model contest isn't<br />
fair to other contestants.<br />
Commentary on Issue #10<br />
I’d like to make several comments<br />
about Issue #10. Clark Howell did a fine<br />
fine job showing how to build realistic<br />
track using castings from Lou Cross<br />
(Right-O-Way). Track is and should be<br />
just as detailed as our models and a big<br />
reason to be in O scale. I’ve built 23<br />
switches and many feet of track so far on<br />
my Ware River Railroad using the same<br />
equipment. It just doesn’t get any better<br />
for the realism it’ll impart on, and complement,<br />
our detailed rolling stock and<br />
related structures. Each switch takes me<br />
about 2-3 hours to build but I wouldn’t<br />
settle for anything less now. Just a couple<br />
suggestions though. Lately the frog castings<br />
come with no fishplates cast on. This<br />
eliminates cutting any insulating gaps on<br />
the point rails. I use the plastic insulating<br />
fishplates on all four frog rails like the<br />
prototype with an 18 gauge wire feeder<br />
soldered to the frog. Before I begin, every<br />
casting and all rails are airbrushed with a<br />
50/50 mix of Floquil weathered black and<br />
rail brown. Even when the switch is complete,<br />
I airbrush the whole thing again and<br />
highlight the castings and paint the tops of<br />
ties with random colors. I find that any<br />
wood grain is too coarse to scale down so<br />
ties sometimes get varying degrees of the<br />
wire brush treatment using my Dremel<br />
once they're glued-down. Try these castings.<br />
You may get hooked!<br />
I hate to say it but Brian Scace and I<br />
tend to think alike. (Sorry Brian, our conversations<br />
can get spooky.) I’ve used the<br />
Aristo wireless throttle intended for G-<br />
scale and a 10 amp Radio Shack power<br />
supply for about 5 years now. I love it! It<br />
has a 300 foot range. I can run a train<br />
while building a B&A caboose at my<br />
bench. Harry Hieke’s really obvious and<br />
simple method of making working doors<br />
on Intermountain cars is one of those really<br />
obvious tips Brian talks about but here<br />
we’ve struggled with complex solutions<br />
for too long. Now I’m glad I have all<br />
those unbuilt kits! Who’da thought?<br />
All we really need to do is expand our<br />
thinking instead of using that "We always<br />
did it that way." logic. Don’t overlook<br />
craft stores or the dollhouse stuff for<br />
scratchbuilding supplies! Even sets of<br />
cheap makeup brushes have a great selection<br />
of soft brushes with many uses but,<br />
uh, that could raise some eyebrows if<br />
you’re alone buying them.<br />
Congratulations on making it to Issue<br />
#10! Every new issue brings many new<br />
ideas.<br />
Phil Opielowski (via email)<br />
On Low Turnouts For The National<br />
In your “Observations” column in the<br />
#10 issue of OST, you opine that the most<br />
likely reasons for the low attendance at<br />
the National was “...the unusual Sunday<br />
to Wednesday schedule. And the economy<br />
had a bit to due with it, too, I'm sure.”<br />
I’ll agree about the scheduling. I think<br />
that John Smith made a bad choice in<br />
42 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
picking those days; days wherein most<br />
folks would have to take vacation days to<br />
attend, rather than over a weekend. As for<br />
planning a vacation around it, I don’t<br />
think many wives or kids would be<br />
thrilled with the idea of going to Texas in<br />
high summer. As for the economy, few of<br />
the “high-rollers” that I know of in the<br />
hobby have reduced the amount of travel<br />
or buying they plan to do.<br />
The real reason, I think, is location,<br />
Location, LOCATION! I have been to the<br />
Nationals in Chicago (2), Indianapolis,<br />
Atlanta, and Stamford (2) since 1989.<br />
The least attended was Atlanta. I have<br />
also heard the shows in New Orleans and<br />
San Antonio were poorly attended. We<br />
can now add Dallas to that list.<br />
I applaud the efforts of those who put<br />
on the shows down South. I had a great<br />
time in Atlanta and saw a couple of neat<br />
layouts as well. But attendance was poor<br />
at best. (A possible exception is the 1991<br />
show in High Point, NC. I’m told it was a<br />
super event and well attended. But then,<br />
that’s not the deep South.) In fact, two of<br />
the main reasons I went to Atlanta were<br />
that fact the it was only a one-day drive<br />
and the offer of free lodging from a fellow<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong>r while I was there.<br />
I would not consider shows in the deep<br />
South or the West Coast because of travel<br />
time/expenses and I think many other O<br />
<strong>Scale</strong>rs feel the same way. (I priced out<br />
cheap airfare, a rental car and a budget for<br />
the hotel and meals in Dallas, and I would<br />
have spent at least $800 not counting<br />
what I wanted to spend on trains!) Conversely,<br />
perhaps O <strong>Scale</strong>rs in the South<br />
and Southeast would not attend a National<br />
in the Northeast or California because<br />
of these same reasons. But, let the majority<br />
rule!<br />
The National needs to be where the<br />
modelers are! Most O <strong>Scale</strong>rs are concentrated<br />
north of the Mason-Dixon Line and<br />
east of the Mississippi River, with a fair<br />
number on the West Coast and a scattering<br />
in the South and Southeast. I would<br />
suggest the the National be held in one of<br />
three areas on a rotating basis each year.<br />
The first area would be the Northeast,<br />
somewhere in a triangle drawn around<br />
Washington, Boston and Cleveland. The<br />
2nd would be in the Midwest: Chicago,<br />
Indianapolis, St. Louis. The 3rd on the<br />
West Coast. In fact, I wouldn’t complain<br />
if the Chicago “March Meet” became the<br />
de-facto “National” every third year! I<br />
think you get my drift.<br />
In your column you also lament the<br />
absence of O <strong>Scale</strong> manufacturers and<br />
vendors at the Dallas National. You<br />
would think that the National would be an<br />
ideal venue for them. But, as many of<br />
them are in the business part-time, you<br />
must also remember that they have<br />
expenses for travel just like the rest of us.<br />
Many of them must drive to the National<br />
in order to take their wares to sell and<br />
thus cannot take advantage of cheap airfares<br />
to a show site. This adds time and<br />
expense. A friend of mine from Florida,<br />
who is a major brass dealer, took an informal<br />
poll of his customers, asking them if<br />
they were going to attend the Dallas<br />
meet. Of the 40 or so regulars that he<br />
spoke with, only 3 indicated they were<br />
going. The three reasons cited most often<br />
for not attending were: 1-the South? in<br />
summer?; 2-the distance involved; 3-the<br />
Sun-Wed Schedule. Based on that feedback,<br />
he decided not to attend the show<br />
either. After all, why go if your customers<br />
aren’t going to be there?<br />
Finally, I think that there needs to be<br />
some kind of a determination of what O<br />
scalers want from a National:<br />
1. Dealer Room<br />
2. Clinics<br />
3. Contests<br />
4. Layout Tours<br />
5. Prototype Facility Tours<br />
6. Banquet & Guest Speaker<br />
7. Off site/non modeling activities<br />
I will cite again the Chicago March<br />
Meet. They have only dealer rooms, contests,<br />
a few layout visits and it’s very<br />
probably the best attended O <strong>Scale</strong> event<br />
in the country, year after year. Any group<br />
that is considering hosting a National<br />
needs to prioritize these things. I suspect<br />
the #'s 1-3 rate high, #4 possibly, and 5-7<br />
as marginal at best.<br />
Ted Leach (via email)<br />
Vendors Pay Attention<br />
Thanks for saying what has needed to<br />
be said for a long time about computers<br />
and the Internet: “Not everyone has or<br />
wants a computer, nor has Internet<br />
access!” (“Observations” OST#10).<br />
[Computers] have to get a lot more user<br />
friendly, (not to mention Internet service<br />
getting cheaper), before I buy one. When<br />
I consider what kind of loco I can buy for<br />
the money, a computer runs last on my<br />
list of priorities. We all have finite disposable<br />
income, and for the cost of a computer,<br />
I bought a 53" Sony TV on which<br />
to enjoy my railroad videos.<br />
I especially resent the assumption of<br />
businesses that the only way to communicate<br />
with them is by computer! I no<br />
longer attend conventions of a [certain]<br />
RR historical society because of the<br />
messy process in getting a refund for my<br />
wife’s registration when she was unable<br />
to go at the last minute. The only contact<br />
was an email and snail mail, address, no<br />
telephone number. Give me a street, city<br />
and state address, and a telephone number,<br />
or they’re not getting a check from<br />
me. An email address could be in Liberia<br />
for all I know.<br />
The other problem is getting sucked<br />
into the computer. I had the latest Dell at<br />
work, and if it were not for a BIG clock<br />
next to it, I would never know when to go<br />
to lunch or to go home! I know I would<br />
spend too much sedentary Internet time<br />
arguing or discussing, and not enough<br />
time on physical activity. So far I’ve partially<br />
avoided Modeler's (and Computer<br />
Geek’s) Gut.<br />
After a flap about computer-altered<br />
photos in a Model Railroader contest, I<br />
predicted that a magazine called Virtual<br />
Railroading could not be far off, when the<br />
models and layout only exist in hyperspace.<br />
(See the featured layout design in<br />
this issue —Ed.) This is too far from reality<br />
for my taste; that’s why I work on<br />
standard gauge tourist trains when models<br />
are not a big enough “fix”.<br />
I realize that a manufacturer can more<br />
easily and cheaply update their current<br />
offerings on the Internet, but a telephone<br />
call to them can do the same thing, and<br />
you know your call was to the correct person,<br />
and acknowledged. New product<br />
reviews and ads are one of the reasons we<br />
buy OST, OSN and MRN.<br />
On the helix article on p. 26, Micro-<br />
Mark sells pencil holders that can be<br />
attached to a trammel, (such as a yardstick),<br />
so drawing radii of any length can<br />
be more accurate than using a string.<br />
Happy Rails,<br />
Lamar Scheuerman, Calif.<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 43
Product News & Reviews<br />
REVIEW: Athearn 1:50 <strong>Scale</strong> John Deere Model B Tractor.<br />
Athearn, Inc.<br />
19010 Laurel Park Road<br />
Compton, CA 90220<br />
310-631-3400<br />
www.athearn.com/home2.html<br />
Reviewed by Gene Deimling<br />
In a surprise move, Athearn is again offering product for the O scale market. They have just imported a 1:50 scale model of<br />
the John Deere Model B tractor. According to the “Retired Tractor” website, the stylized Model B was built from 1938 to 1952.<br />
The styling was done by none other than Henry Dreyfuss, designer of the shrouded NYC Hudson that pulled the 20th Century<br />
Limited. It appears that this Athearn model is based upon the 1947 update to the Model B.<br />
I might suggest that you visit http://www.retiredtractor.com to learn more about this subject. This is an excellent choice since<br />
many of us still model in the late steam to early diesel era.<br />
The model was manufactured in China for Athearn under license of John<br />
Deere. The color, lettering and overall design look to be very well done compared<br />
to the images contained on the above-mentioned site. The model has a<br />
number of detail parts added like the headlights, steering wheels and exhaust<br />
system. Athearn’s tractor is clearly a cut above the typical die cast tractor sold<br />
by other companies. The detail is better and being 1:50 scale it is much closer<br />
to O scale.<br />
The model retails for $16.95 and is available only from retailers.<br />
Athearn does not sell direct. While the price might seem a bit high for<br />
diecast, this is a quality product that requires little preparation to place into<br />
the most detailed scenes. A little weathering will make the model look like<br />
it has been used down on the farm. This model and a few more that I purchased<br />
will go on a scratch built flat car as a load of new tractors. A little<br />
wood blocking to hold the tractors in place and you have a highly detailed model that will attract a lot of attention. Lets hope<br />
that Athearn will produce more classic John Deere farm equipment.<br />
REVIEW: Chooch Enterprises Ultra <strong>Scale</strong> II Boxcar Detail Set #610.<br />
Chooch Enterprises, Inc.<br />
P.O. Box 1200<br />
Maple Valley, Washington 98038<br />
Website:http://www.choochenterprises.com/index.html<br />
Reviewed by Gene Deimling<br />
Chooch Enterprises is offering a detail set for Intermountain 1937 AAR boxcars. The kit consists of multiple sprues made of<br />
engineering plastic for ladders, bracketed grab irons and stirrups; and styrene for brake detail parts. These parts are designed to<br />
fit into the original kit parts. The parts literally slip into the existing holes. The parts have a very fine cross-section yet are tough.<br />
They can stand some rough handling and not end up as track litter on your layout. The kit also contains replacement parts for<br />
the brake levers, brake fulcrum and brake platform. All of the parts are accurately<br />
portrayed and very close to exact scale. The brake levers even have their foundry<br />
marks on the face.<br />
Mounting engineering plastic parts<br />
requires some care so they don’t fall off<br />
during handling or operation. The material<br />
is very slippery and will not bond with<br />
normal styrene adhesives but can be<br />
attached with plastic formulated cyanoacrylates<br />
(CA) if the mounting holes are a<br />
tight fit. There is a new adhesive specially<br />
formulated for engineering plastics. It is<br />
called Loctite Plastix. It is a two-part adhesive<br />
that you can get from a wide variety of<br />
stores. It will bond engineering plastic to standard styrene.<br />
The detail set retails for $20 for enough parts to do four Intermountain boxcars. You can use the parts for other cars as well.<br />
The grab irons work on the Intermountain reefer as well. I have used the detail sets on scratch built models, too. The kit is available<br />
direct only from Chooch. They have a website that provides secure e-commerce transactions. You can also buy them at a<br />
number of the major O scale shows that Chooch attends. They will be at O <strong>Scale</strong> West in February and the Chicago show in<br />
March. You will find a number of very interesting details parts they only sell at the shows.<br />
44 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
REVIEW: <strong>Scale</strong>d World<br />
P.O. Box 97<br />
Cottleville, MO 63338-0097<br />
636-939-2397 www.scaledworld.com<br />
Reviewed by Jeb Kriigel<br />
No scale railroad would be realistic without signals! For many years there has been a shortage of high quality super detailed signals<br />
for O scale. A few kits have been available. Custom signal builders are a bit pricey. Now, <strong>Scale</strong>d World has filled the void with<br />
their signal kits. Each kit comes with all of the necessary parts and hardware to build a<br />
scale signal.<br />
<strong>Scale</strong>d World has taken the time to package all of the parts in a neat and organized<br />
kit. Most of the components are made of brass, some of white metal castings, and the<br />
colored lenses are made of plastic. Each kit comes with a 14v light bulb and wire leads.<br />
Step by step instructions are easy to read and follow. An instruction sheet shows an<br />
exploded view of the entire assembly process. It is critical to assemble the kit in the<br />
order outlined. Do not take short cuts! If you have difficulty following directions don’t<br />
attempt this kit!<br />
Basic tools are required and some ACC glue. A soldering iron is recommended for<br />
soldering the brass. There is one word of caution: SOLDER ONLY BRASS TO<br />
BRASS. The white metal castings will be damaged by the heat. I test fit each part to<br />
make sure of a good fit. Some castings may need to have the flashing removed. Some<br />
holes may require cleaning for a proper fit. The kit will take 3-4 evenings to complete<br />
depending on your modeling experience.<br />
You can custom paint and detail the final signal to your own preference. This is a<br />
great kit to customize to the exact specifications of your particular road. These signals<br />
are manually operated. However, other manufacturers produce switches and controls to<br />
make these fully operational. With a little patience and skill it is possible to assemble a<br />
very realistic looking scale signal that will certainly be a great addition to your pike.<br />
Currently, <strong>Scale</strong>d World produces a double train order board, a 3 position signal<br />
light w. and w/o the control box and a switch signal. Several other signals are being<br />
planned and are under construction. See their web site for more information.<br />
Don’t have the time, patience, or modeling skills: let Get Real Productions professionally<br />
assemble these kits for you! See their ad elsewhere in this magazine.<br />
NEWS:<br />
C&O Woodside Caboose Series<br />
90700, 90600, 90800, 90900.<br />
R Y Models<br />
7 Edgedale Ct.<br />
Wyomissing, PA 19610<br />
610-678-2834<br />
www.richyodermodels.com<br />
Painted in USA, $295.00,<br />
Painted, undec., $260.00,<br />
Unpainted, $245.00.<br />
Three rail version available.<br />
Brass construction, trucks & couplers.<br />
NEWS:<br />
Ultra <strong>Scale</strong> II Models<br />
Div of Chooch Enterprises, Inc.<br />
P.O. Box 1200<br />
Maple Valley, WA 98038<br />
Website: www.choochenterprises.com<br />
Ultra <strong>Scale</strong> Models II, the O <strong>Scale</strong> division of Chooch<br />
Enterprises announces their new window replacements for<br />
the Weaver Pullman-Bradley cars. Cut in precise laser-cut<br />
plexiglass, each window fits precisely into each frame to make the final appearance of a flush window. Look for part #650.<br />
Priced at $24.00 + $4.95 s/h. Available from your favorite Chooch Key Store or directly from Chooch Enterprises.<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 45
NEWS:<br />
Corgi Lionelville Trucks<br />
Corgi Classics, Inc.<br />
430 West Erie, Suite 205<br />
Chicago, IL 60610<br />
1-800-800-CORGI phone (312) 427-1880 fax<br />
info@corgiclassics.com , www.corgiclassics.com<br />
Sugg Retail: $40<br />
Corgi Classics is adding two new models to its popular<br />
Lionelville® Collection accessories. The two new<br />
additions to the Lionelville Collection include:<br />
Mack AC Delivery Truck—H.P. Hood & Sons Milk—<br />
marked with the distinctive H.P. Hood & Sons logo,<br />
this delivery truck is a follow-up to Lionel’s best-selling<br />
2002 release of the H.P. Hood & Sons milk reefer.<br />
The Mack AC Delivery Truck is available now and has<br />
a suggested retail price of $40.<br />
Diamond T 620 Dropside—Pennsylvania Railroad—<br />
with a load of lube oil barrels. The Diamond T 620<br />
Dropside will be available in December and has a<br />
suggested retail price of $40.<br />
Corgi's Lionelville Collection is available at fine retailers across the country and can be located by logging on to<br />
www.corgiclassics.com.<br />
NEWS:<br />
HIGH IRON DIVISION of Sunset Models<br />
37 Fourth St<br />
Campbell, CA 95008<br />
408-866-1727 www.3rdrail.com<br />
Sunset Models has announced a new line of small, affordable, brass locomotives.<br />
They call this new division High Iron as these<br />
are the most advanced designs from Sunset<br />
Models. This line differs from regular<br />
3rd Rail products in that you can<br />
choose to either have all<br />
the advanced electronics<br />
included in your model or<br />
not. Also, these models are<br />
not produced in limited<br />
quantities as with 3rd Rail,<br />
therefore the economy of higher<br />
production quantities allows Sunset to<br />
competitively price these smaller locomotives<br />
at or below diecast prices while maintaining<br />
superior detailing and scale accuracy. These model are<br />
built in China where Sunset has produced freight and passenger<br />
cars, and electric locomotives over the last six years. The High<br />
Iron model’s quality will equal or surpass their Korean counterparts.<br />
The first model from the High Iron line will be a Pennsylvania RR K4 4-6-2<br />
Pacific. Sunset is producing both the Pre- and Post-war versions of this locomotive.<br />
You can buy this engine for just under $600 in 2 Rail or 3 Rail configurations. For that<br />
price you get all the scale detail, a smooth running mechanism, and full compliment<br />
of directional lights with a simple electronic reversing unit in three rail models. If you<br />
desire TMCC, Railsounds, Coil Coupler, Puff n' Chuff II Smoke and EOB cruise control,<br />
this can be added for just $150 more. The first release is scheduled for January<br />
2004. Visit the Sunset/3rd Rail website for more info<br />
NEWS: Joint Line Reproductions<br />
40' Steel Box Cars<br />
PO Box 906<br />
Littleton CO 80160<br />
Now arriving in 2- and 3- rail, O-<br />
<strong>Scale</strong> Weaver 40' steel box cars<br />
lettered Colorado & Southern.<br />
Four road numbers available.<br />
$40.00 each plus $10.00 S & H<br />
per car. Diecast sprung trucks<br />
available for an additional<br />
$10.00.<br />
NEWS:<br />
TRAINBID.COM<br />
627 Cedar Lake<br />
Ewing , Kentucky 41039<br />
606-267-3466<br />
e-mail kwiseman@pqisp.net<br />
Anyone may list model railroad<br />
items for sale on Trainbid at<br />
www.trainbid.com. A basic listing<br />
is free. You can set an item to<br />
automatically relist 100 times<br />
until it sells and re-listing is easy.<br />
You can display 3 pictures of an<br />
item. If a buyer clicks on your<br />
user name or the “contact seller”<br />
link it goes directly to your e-<br />
mail address. Links in your listing<br />
can take a potential buyer directly<br />
to your web site.<br />
Keith Wiseman<br />
46 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
NEWS: Lionel 50 Ton Offset Side Hopper<br />
Lionel LLC<br />
50625 Richard W Blvd<br />
Chesterfield MI 48051<br />
1-800-4-LIONEL,<br />
www.lionel.com<br />
Sugg. Retail: $59.99<br />
As early as the late<br />
1920s, the American<br />
Association of Railroads<br />
began designing standardized<br />
50-ton open<br />
hopper cars. The A.A.R. standard 50-ton open hopper was classified HM, which<br />
designated it as a self-clearing open top car with two divided hoppers, fixed ends,<br />
fixed sides and doors hinged crosswise to allow dumping between the rails. The<br />
cars were widespread on coal hauling railroads throughout the country.<br />
Lionel has again brought a “to-scale” car into its line of products with the introduction<br />
of this die cast twin hopper. The<br />
level of detail on this car rivals O scale<br />
brass at about one-quarter the price. The<br />
car also has operating hopper doors and<br />
a coal load. The car is available in four<br />
roadnames: #6-17018 NKP, #6-17019<br />
AT&SF, #6-17020 Frisco, #6-17021 NYC<br />
NEWS:<br />
Generic Hi-cube Boxcar kit<br />
Adirondack Car & Foundry<br />
160 Harwood Rd.<br />
Gray TN 37615<br />
reutling@xtn.net<br />
Price: $20, plus $5 s&h<br />
This is a urethane kit produced from in house masters and molds. The kit is ”flatcast“,<br />
i.e., separate pieces for the sides,ends, roof, floor. Included in the kit are<br />
the 3 piece AB brake components. It is up to the builder to provide his choice of<br />
ladders, grabs, handbrake, trucks and<br />
couplers, and paint and decals of choice.<br />
It is a rather simple kit to assemble, not<br />
much more than a box on wheels.<br />
Assembly is best accomplished using<br />
some styrene glue blocks and CA glue.<br />
Some modelers might prefer using epoxy.<br />
Reference the website:<br />
http://espee.railfan.net/sp_fcss/sp_fcss-<br />
27a.html<br />
NEWS:<br />
Fallen Flags Railroad Pictures<br />
www.rr-fallenflags.org<br />
Have been looking all over the web for pictures of your favorite railroads and<br />
haven’t been able to find much? Boy do I have a source for you. George Elwood’s<br />
Fallen Flags website. He started the site in 1995 and has had over 1,700,000 visitors!<br />
When you get to the site, please read the information about the copyright<br />
laws and how he wants his site to be treated. Copyright laws are quite specific<br />
about whose pictures they are and how and if you can use them. Be careful or<br />
someone might come after you and ruin your whole day! If you have any questions<br />
ask George and I am sure he can help you. FallenFlags is very interesting to<br />
go through. You will learn a lot about railroads you haven’t even heard of and<br />
might even get interested in modeling that railroad. I am sure you will be happy<br />
that you have found this site.<br />
Stuart Ramsey<br />
The Public Delivery Track<br />
Locomotives - 2 rail<br />
Atlas..RS-1..LIRR, NH, PRR, Rut.+ new ones..$339-$359<br />
GP-35's..GMO, C&O, etc..$339-349. Non Powered..$189<br />
SD-35, Dash 8..B&O, CNJ, CSX, NW, Sou, WM..299-349<br />
SW's..CP, RRiv, B&O, LV, Rdg, Susq, NH..$225-$299<br />
Weaver...K-4, L-1, GG-1, C-628/630, others..........call<br />
..VO-1000..B&O,CNJ, GN, LV, MILW, PRR, Rdg, WM..$249<br />
..2-8-0 Consolidation..ATSF, B&O, DLW, NP, SOU..$459<br />
..U25's..BN, EL, LV, Rdg, MILW, NYC, PRR...$179-$239<br />
..RS-3..Erie, LN, LV, NH, NKP, PRR, Rdg, Rut, Susq..$249<br />
..RS-11..BN, CO, CN/CV, CNW, MEC, PRR, SP..$249<br />
..GP-38's..C&O, CP, CSX, ICG, L&N, LV, B&M...$249<br />
..Shaft drive RS-3's, GP-38's, FA/FB's..CNJ, D&H, EL...<br />
..GN, NH, PRR, RDG, RI, SOU, WM, undec..$99-$150<br />
MTH..PRR K-4..$695, Centipede..$895,..WP F-3's..$695<br />
Passenger Sets<br />
Weaver..80' Streamliners..EL, SP, PRR, B&O..$275-$395<br />
..P-B cars..NH, Rdg, CNJ, LV, others..2/$219, 4/$419<br />
K-line...80' cars...Amtk, DRGW, PRR....$275-$449<br />
Box Cars - 2 rail<br />
Pecos River..NYC, SOU, SP, SF, CBQ, WAB...$35<br />
..C&O, B&O, WM, PM, Erie, NKP; UP, SF end door..$45<br />
Atlas..40' Steel...PRR, NYC, CNW, GN, Susq..$48-$52<br />
40' Wood..BO, CBQ, CNJ, NYC, PRR, Rdg, SP, WM..$45-$50<br />
40' 1970's..Erie, L&N, MEC, PRR, SSW, MILW, B&M..$32<br />
50'..ACL, RFP, D&H, NYC, MILW, MKT, SAL, SF..$55-$60<br />
53'..Aloha, Purina, B&M, MP, BN. IC, CNW, FEC..$35-$50<br />
60'..DTI, MKT, NS, CSX, B&O, EL, RG, Sou, NW..$35-$50<br />
Weaver..40' & 50'..ACL, ACY, ARR, ATSF, BAR, B&O,<br />
B&M, CBQ, CGW, CIRR, CNJ, CN, C&O, CP, CV, CR,<br />
D&H, DTSL, EL, GN, GT, IC, MEC, LV, L&N, MP, NYC,<br />
NH, NP, NYSW, PC, PLE, PRR, Rdg, Rut, SCL, SOU, SP<br />
TPW, UP, WM, WP, CN, Rbox, RI, MRL, more...$20-$30<br />
Refrigerator Cars - 2 rail<br />
Wvr/Crown..PFE, CV, CN, NYC, BM, BAR, REA, Hoods,<br />
Whitehse, Dubuque, Oppenheimer, Nrn Refrig..$25-$30<br />
57' Mech..PFE, SF, BN, ART..15 roads..$29. w/sound..$39<br />
Atlas..36' & 40'...oldies, newies, and custom..$42-$89<br />
Covered Hoppers - 2 rail<br />
Weaver PS-2.. Bakers, Jack Frost, Wayne Feed, Purina<br />
Revere, Goiden Loaf, BN, CBQ, CNJ, CNW, CP, CR, CSX<br />
DLW, DTI, EL, LV, NH, NYC, PRR, Rdg, WAB, UP..$25-$30<br />
Wvr C'flow or Grain..CR, CP, ONT, LV, NYC, PRR,<br />
Sask, Sunbeam, Amoco, Sclair, Shell, Dupont, Hercules,<br />
Rainbow, WC, MRL, BN, UP, SP, RI, CNW, MNS..$25-$30<br />
Atlas..BN, Ches, NYC, IT, WGrace, GN, WAB..$35-$45<br />
Airslide..LV, D&H, CSX, PRR, UP, Brach, Jfrost..$35-$45<br />
PS-4427..BN, SF, MILW, LV, SOO, Wayne Fd, Cont..$55-$60<br />
Coal Hoppers - 2 rail<br />
Atlas..ACL, CNJ, C&O, D&H, LV, NS, Rdg, WM.. $45-$55<br />
Wartime..B&O, C&O, CRR, SF, VGN, SOU, WAB..$47<br />
Ore cars..(Wvr trucks) B&LE, CN, DMIR, UP, undec..$27<br />
Weaver..2, 3, 4-bay and Composite..B&O, CBQ, CP, GT<br />
CNJ, Clin"fd, C&O, D&H DLW, Erie, EL, IC, CR, NH, NYC,<br />
NW, PRR, Rdg, SF, UP, VGN, WM, SAL, NKP, B&A...$25<br />
Tank Cars - 2 rail<br />
Weaver..Jfrost, GULF, BN, Trusweet, Allied, ADM, Army<br />
Ethyl, Diamond, Hooker, DuPont, Sunoco,Bakers..$30<br />
Atlas..60'..Propane, ACFX, CNTX, Union Tex, .$40-$55<br />
1950's..SHPX. UTLX, Hooker, Gulf, Warren..$57-$63<br />
Flat Cars, Stock Cars, MofW<br />
Atlas..89' flats..$65. Trailers..$25. Auto Carriers..$85<br />
Pulpwood flats...ACL, ATSF, BN, SCL, IC, L&N....$47-$49<br />
Front runners......no trailer..$47; With trailer........$67<br />
Weaver Flats..SF, Rdg, CR, Erie, LV, BN, UP..$25-$30<br />
Stock..CNW, Armour, UP, RG, PRR, Rdg, Erie, etc..$30<br />
MTH..Plows, Cranes, Schnabel, dump cars, etc..call<br />
K-Line Diecast Double-Stack $50. Coil cars..$35-$40<br />
16 wheel flat w/load..NYC, NH, Rdg, PRR, UP..$45-$59<br />
<strong>Scale</strong> signals..MTH and Brass..20+ types..$20-$50<br />
Gondolas - 2 rail<br />
Atlas..CNJ, NW, PRR, GN, Rdg, C&O, MP, Chessie..$32<br />
Wvr..Wartime..CNJ, PRR, LV, RI, SF, Rdg, UP, NKP..$27<br />
Cabeese - 2 rail<br />
Weaver..CP, B&M, IC, NH, NYC, Erie, LHR, LV, MILW,<br />
..D&H, Rdg, MEC, MMID, L&N, WM, CR, PRR..$20-$35<br />
Atlas..BN, CR, DH, RFP, Rut, GN, Chessie, RG..$50-$67<br />
Wvr diecast tks..$12.50/pr, installed add $8.95<br />
K-line 2-rail freight and Psgr trucks $13-$25<br />
The Public Delivery Track • pdt@gis.net<br />
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Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 47
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48 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
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OMI NP A4 4-8-4 unpainted, new TRO 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1795<br />
PSC D&RGW L-131, F⁄P Road# 3600, black boiler, tender has correct<br />
spacing between the Rio Grande unlike the production run. No film<br />
decals from PSC. New, never run . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$3695<br />
Key SP E7 A&B, latest run F⁄P Daylight, new, never run (pair) . . .$2595<br />
Sunset PRR S2 6-8-6, Unptd., 1st run, like new, never run . . . . .$1495<br />
OMI SP&S Z8 4-6-6-4 Unpainted Very Little Tarnish TRO New . .$3200<br />
PSC SP AC-9 2-8-8-4 Coal 222 R-1 Tender F⁄P - Black Boiler New . . .$3195<br />
Key D&RGW L-95 2-8-8-2, F/P Green or Black boiler, Var Rd#s . .$3795<br />
Key D&RGW L-96 2-8-8-2, F/P Green or Black boiler, Var Rd#s . .$3795<br />
PSC N&W Z1b 2-6-6-2 Factory Painted Rd# 1438 New . . . . . . . .$2975<br />
PSC NYC S1a 4-8-4 C⁄P by Bernie Beedy Crown Series New . . . .$3995<br />
OMI 120 Ton Crane Open Cab Version Industrial Brownhoist Factory<br />
Painted Black, Unlettered OMI No. 0027.1 New . . . . . . . . . . . .$1195<br />
Key B&A K3n 4-6-2, Factory painted, Rd#506, New . . . . . . . . .$2550<br />
OMI UP FEF-3, F⁄P, Road# 844, new, never run . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$2550<br />
PSC C&O T1 2-10-4, C⁄P, like new condition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$2095<br />
OMI UP DD40X F⁄P Road# 6931, like new w⁄Cockerham drive . . .$2250<br />
OMI NP Z8 4-6-6-4, Unptd, New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$3200<br />
OMI WM I-2 2-10-0, F/P Rd# 1120, new condition . . . . . . . . . . .$1895<br />
OMI GN FT A+B, C/P for OMI, Rd#402-A, New . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1495<br />
OMI GN FT A+B, C/P for OMI, Rd#402-D, New . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1495<br />
PSC CB&Q S-4a 4-6-4, Factory Ptd, Rd# 3003 new . . . . . . . . . .$2850<br />
Key SP E9a 2 A units, Latest run, F⁄P Daylight (pair) . . . . . . . . . .$2695<br />
PSC NP Z5 2-8-8-4, F/P Rd# 5006 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$3295<br />
Kohs & Co NYC J3a 4-6-4, F/P Rd# 5424, late version PT4 tender,<br />
Boxpok drivers, plain rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$4000<br />
Kohs & Co N&W Y6b 2-8-8-2, F/P Rd# 2178 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$4000<br />
Kohs & Co N&W Auxiliary Water Car F/P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$650<br />
PSC C&O C-16a 0-8-0 Custom Painted for PSC Rd#242 . . . . . . . .$1750<br />
PSC SRR Ps-4 4-6-2, F/P Rd# 1401 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1650<br />
C&LS C&O H6 2-6-6-2 F/P Rd# 1477 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$3295<br />
C&LS WM M-2 4-6-6-4, F/P Rd# 1201, late version . . . . . . . . . . .$2995<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 49
Building a GP-9<br />
Marrying a Red Caboose GP-9 Body Kit to an Atlas/Roco Chassis<br />
By Jerry Roy and Tom Houle<br />
Introduction<br />
Aside from being a handsome and<br />
useful addition to any model railroad,<br />
EMD’s ubiquitous GP-9 is prototypically<br />
correct on any layout set from the<br />
mid-fifties to the present. That’s nearly<br />
fifty years of railroading, folks. What an<br />
incredible piece of work. Hats off to<br />
EMD for creating the Geep. It’s a good<br />
looking locomotive that can be used on<br />
virtually any layout from empire size to<br />
the smallest shelf switching pike.<br />
Jerry Roy and I built a pair of these<br />
GP-9 units, using stock Atlas/Roco F-9<br />
drives and trucks, and Red Caboose<br />
body shell kits. In lieu of the Atlas<br />
drives, you could use the P&D Hobby<br />
drives, trucks and chassis, which were<br />
designed expressly for the Red Caboose<br />
body (see the P&D ad in this issue). We<br />
chose to use the Atlas/Roco drives and<br />
trucks because they’re inexpensive and<br />
we had several units on hand. With a bit<br />
of tweaking they run pretty well. Even<br />
though the Atlas/Roco F-9’s haven’t<br />
been produced since the late 70’s, there<br />
are still plenty of them around. The<br />
going rate seems to be around $40 to<br />
$50 per unit.<br />
To locate Atlas/Roco F-9 units and<br />
drives, contact P&D Hobbies, haunt the<br />
swap meets, check E-Bay and join the<br />
definitive O scale two-rail Yahoo mail<br />
list. The Yahoo group is free and well<br />
worth it to access and share information<br />
about what’s going on in O scale and<br />
what’s for sale. Its also a great place to<br />
get answers and do some research on a<br />
new project.<br />
The Red Caboose GP-9 loco was<br />
introduced back in the early nineties.<br />
Until recently, it was available in RTR<br />
form (painted and undecorated) along<br />
with an inexpensive body kit designed to<br />
fit the Atlas F-9 drive. Like those vintage<br />
Atlas F-9’s, there are still plenty of GP-9<br />
body kits available. Red Caboose sold<br />
their body kit inventory to P&D Hobby.<br />
The kits are available with or without<br />
dynamic brakes. You may also be able to<br />
find the body kits at your local hobby<br />
shop and at swap meets around the country.<br />
Jerry and I purchased several body<br />
kits sans dynamic brakes for less than<br />
fifty bucks each.<br />
The instructions that came with the<br />
Red Caboose body kits were reasonably<br />
clear and easy to follow, but there are a<br />
few areas where the inexperienced modeler<br />
might have a little assembly trouble.<br />
We’ll highlight those areas and tell you<br />
how we tuned up the Atlas drives to<br />
improve performance and reduce noise<br />
levels. Jerry replicated a 1960’s Milwaukee<br />
Road paint scheme where I followed<br />
the Soo Line’s late fifties maroon<br />
and gold pine tree scheme. Neither of<br />
these particular prototype units utilized<br />
dynamic brakes. Let’s get started with<br />
the body kit.<br />
Dry Fitting and Detailing The Body<br />
Considering the way in which these<br />
body kits are assembled and later come<br />
apart for maintenance, we found it a<br />
good idea to dry fit all components<br />
before final assembly. Every part in the<br />
body kit is molded styrene. When everything<br />
is glued together, the unit is quite<br />
strong. However, before assembly the<br />
parts can flex and may even be warped.<br />
This is very important in the frame-toskirt<br />
fit as this where the frame, drive,<br />
and trucks separate for maintenance<br />
from the completed body after the locomotive<br />
is assembled. The frame must<br />
slide easily in and out of the skirt. Check<br />
for warpage in the frame and skirt. We<br />
50 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
found one of our skirts was drooping and<br />
would not align to the frame. It’s not a<br />
big deal to fix. A gentle twist in the heat<br />
from a 100-watt light bulb corrected the<br />
warp. But know about the warps before<br />
you begin attaching parts We had to trim<br />
both frame ends to allow the frame to<br />
drop into the skirt. (See Figure 1.) We<br />
also trimmed off the twin nubs that project<br />
from both sides of the frame in the<br />
truck bolster areas. These nubs interfered<br />
with the fit-up. We still haven’t figured<br />
out why those nubs are there.<br />
1<br />
That done, we dry fit the hood casting<br />
to the skirt. It turned out, on both of<br />
our units, the locating pins on the hoods<br />
did not perfectly align to the holes molded<br />
into the skirt. We had to slightly<br />
enlarge the locating holes at both short<br />
hood ends to allow the hood to fit tightly<br />
to the skirt deck. With the hoods fitted to<br />
the decks, we then tried dropping the<br />
cabs into the cut outs in the hoods. We<br />
found it necessary on both units to cut<br />
away the molded strap between the long<br />
and short hoods to allow the cab to rest<br />
on the walkways. This step is not mentioned<br />
in the instructions, but we could<br />
not make the cabs fit any other way.<br />
Once the cab is glued in place, the connecting<br />
strap becomes redundant.<br />
To accurately replicate both locomotives,<br />
we did a lot of research on what<br />
these units looked like in our respective<br />
time periods. From there we selected<br />
specific GP-9 units to replicate. We used<br />
the Soo Line Historical & Technical<br />
Society, the Milwaukee Road Historical<br />
Association (both are on the Internet),<br />
various Internet rail photo sites, and several<br />
back issues from the Soo Line Historical<br />
& Technical Society and the<br />
Milwaukee Road Historical Association<br />
magazines to confirm and replicate all<br />
important differentiating details.<br />
Based on the information at hand, I<br />
selected Soo unit road number 400 as<br />
the one I would follow. Jerry chose Milwaukee<br />
Road unit 2421 as his prototype.<br />
Neither unit had dynamic brakes and<br />
they both used the<br />
winterization hatch<br />
over the forward<br />
cooling fan. I<br />
capped off both<br />
exhaust stacks<br />
with half round<br />
lengths of styrene<br />
to simulate the<br />
exhaust deflectors<br />
on the Soo unit. I<br />
also added a set of<br />
P&D MU cables<br />
to both ends. Note<br />
that not all Soo units had these cables.<br />
We brush painted the internal parts of<br />
the cooling fans with Badger MOD-<br />
ELflex Engine Black then completely<br />
assembled them for both units and set<br />
them aside. They are attached to the<br />
respective hoods after the hoods are<br />
painted. The fan blades are supposed to<br />
be free enough to turn inside their housings,<br />
but we found this was not the case.<br />
Frankly, we didn’t bother correcting the<br />
problem—if it even was one. They are<br />
superbly detailed and look great as is.<br />
Painting and<br />
Decaling the Body<br />
If you’re working<br />
with a painted shell,<br />
then follow the Red<br />
Caboose instruction<br />
sheet. We’re assuming<br />
you have an<br />
unpainted shell. In<br />
that case we deviated<br />
from their recommended assembly<br />
procedure. We (i.e., Jerry, acknowledged<br />
master of the airbrush) painted<br />
the frames, skirts, hoods, and cabs for<br />
both units before we did the final<br />
assembly. This avoids a ton of nearly<br />
impossible masking.<br />
We painted all of the detail parts like<br />
side and end railings, grabs, etc., right on<br />
the sprues. We found out after attaching<br />
the lift rings that the plastic lift rings were<br />
so fragile we both broke off several while<br />
handling the hoods. At this point we<br />
decided to substitute P&D Hobby #1027<br />
brass lift rings. We drilled out the broken<br />
posts and attached the brass lift rings with<br />
CA glue applied to the insides of the<br />
hoods. The brass rings are much stronger<br />
and you cannot tell the difference.<br />
Prior to priming and air brushing,<br />
Jerry washed the frames, skirts, hoods,<br />
and cabs in warm soapy water and let<br />
the parts air dry overnight. These same<br />
parts were air brushed with thinned Floquil<br />
gray primer. He let the parts cure for<br />
another three days before applying the<br />
finish coats. A word of caution: do not<br />
touch any part to be painted with your<br />
fingers or hands. Acrylic based paints<br />
will not cover the oil from your skin.<br />
Since the final coat process varied from<br />
the Soo unit to the Milwaukee Road<br />
unit, We’ll tell you how Jerry did both.<br />
Perhaps you’ll glean an idea or two for<br />
the painting of your particular Geep.<br />
Soo Line<br />
Jerry shot both hoods and the cab of<br />
my Soo unit with Badger MODELflex<br />
Soo Maroon which is very close to its<br />
fresh paint hue and more maroon than<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 51
the reddish color normally seen on Soo<br />
units. Red based paints have a tremendous<br />
fade rate and the maroon quickly<br />
weathers to a more reddish hue. If you<br />
wish to duplicate an older Soo unit, add<br />
a bit of red to the maroon. Apparently,<br />
Badger has since discontinued this Soo<br />
color. There is a Wisconsin Central<br />
maroon that may work as a substitute.<br />
The skirt and frame were shot with Badger<br />
Engine Black. Ditto for the handrails<br />
and other sprue-mounted parts.<br />
Decaling of the Soo unit was done<br />
after a three-day paint curing period. We<br />
were surprised to find Microscale’s<br />
unique gold “pine tree” decal for the<br />
short hood end did not descend to the<br />
walkway as it should. For no apparent<br />
reason, the decal was approximately 3 /4"<br />
too short, leaving a big bare spot. The<br />
Microscale instructions acknowledged<br />
this fact and suggested filling in the<br />
uncovered area with Floquil’s Wisconsin<br />
Central gold paint.<br />
At best, that’s an awkward solution<br />
and at worst unworkable for such a large<br />
area. No way were we going to try to<br />
blend that paint in<br />
with the decal. We<br />
solved the problem by<br />
covering the bare spot<br />
with a stacked pair of<br />
gold hood side bands<br />
cut from a second set<br />
of Microscale decals.<br />
If you replicate the<br />
later Soo Line paint<br />
scheme with a pine<br />
tree at both hood<br />
ends, then you’ll need<br />
to have three sets of<br />
these decals. One<br />
other note on the<br />
Microscale Soo decal<br />
set, the gold stripping<br />
is not as opaque as I<br />
would like, some<br />
bleed through of the<br />
maroon is visible, I<br />
recommend a liberal<br />
application of<br />
Microscale blue solvent under the decal<br />
to prevent blotching. However, when finished,<br />
the decals look fine.<br />
That done, the road number decals<br />
were added to the number boards and<br />
the Soo Line lettering added to the hood<br />
sides. Don’t attach the number boards to<br />
the hood ends yet. This comes later. The<br />
Soo Line used both expanded and condensed<br />
lettering styles for the Soo Line<br />
lettering on the hood sides. Microscale<br />
provides the condensed version so that’s<br />
what we used. More correctly for the<br />
400 unit, the expanded lettering should<br />
be used.<br />
Milwaukee Road<br />
For his Milwaukee Road unit, Jerry<br />
shot the hood and cab sides with Badger<br />
Milwaukee Road Orange. Three days<br />
later, he masked off the upper hoods and<br />
cab and then shot them, the skirt and<br />
frame with Badger’s Engine Black.<br />
You wouldn’t think of using 3M<br />
Scotch ® brand Magic tape for masking,<br />
at least I didn’t. Jerry did and he swears<br />
by it. No leaks and clean crisp lines.<br />
Jerry always uses a brand new roll when<br />
he starts masking. The tape should be<br />
burnished along the paint line. You<br />
know when it’s burnished because it<br />
goes from frosty to clear. Jerry says the<br />
tape can easily be worked into corners<br />
and it never leaks. To prevent paint pullup<br />
when the tape is removed, Jerry rapid<br />
cures the paint with a hair dryer then<br />
pulls up the tape gently at a reverse<br />
angle from the work after an overnight<br />
cure. You can’t argue with this technique.<br />
Jerry’s results bear him out.<br />
The finished decaled shells were shot<br />
with Testor’s Dul-Kote. There was no<br />
interaction between the Dul-Kote and<br />
acrylic paints underneath.<br />
Final Details<br />
With the unit painting out of the way<br />
and after waiting three days for the paint<br />
to fully cure, the hoods, sans the cabs,<br />
were permanently attached to the skirts.<br />
Make sure before final gluing that the<br />
hoods sit flush at both ends with the<br />
skirt walkways. That done, we added the<br />
detail parts; grabs, lift rings, cooling<br />
fans, air horns, window glass, MU<br />
cables, wiper blades, etc. We used white<br />
52 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
metal air horns from the scrap box and<br />
relocated them on the Soo unit as the<br />
Red Caboose plastic horns weren’t correct.<br />
It’s much easier to fully detail the<br />
cab interior and add the cab glass before<br />
you attach the cab to the hoods. Jerry<br />
added an engineer to his unit. I didn’t.<br />
When the cabs were finished, we glued<br />
them to the hoods. Next, we installed the<br />
dual headlight lens sprues, Miniatronics<br />
constant reversible lighting wiring and<br />
connectors. No attempt was made to<br />
illuminate the classification lights; we<br />
used MV products lenses. “Starting to<br />
look good,” Jerry cracked. I had to<br />
agree.<br />
Handrails came next. These were air<br />
brushed with Badger MODELFlex paint<br />
prior to attachment to the sides and end<br />
of the skirt. We recommend opening up<br />
all skirt handrail holes ever so slightly to<br />
accommodate the handrail mounting<br />
pins. Also note the handrail pins extend<br />
through the skirt and will interfere with<br />
the frame when the skirt is dropped onto<br />
the frame. The pin extensions beyond<br />
the skirt add nothing to handrail<br />
strength. You might as well soften the<br />
pin ends with heat and flatten them or<br />
CA glue the pins to the skirt and then<br />
cut off the pin extensions (as we did).<br />
You could also file tiny notches into the<br />
frame to clear the pin extensions.<br />
Powering The Beast<br />
We decided to power our Geeps with<br />
the Atlas/Roco drives. We used them<br />
pretty much “as is” though we did make<br />
a few changes to improve performance.<br />
Back in the 1970’s when this chassis<br />
first came out, a lot of O scalers said it<br />
lacked the robust construction of an All<br />
Nation or Central Locomotive Works<br />
drive. Others thought it inferior by virtue<br />
of it’s almost all molded plastic components.<br />
Of course, back then, they were<br />
pulling cars that weighed about 15lbs.<br />
each and rolled as well as a brick.<br />
Well, I think time and Atlas have<br />
proved the naysayers wrong. Granted,<br />
we would not recommend pulling a<br />
dozen weighted heavyweights up a two<br />
percent grade with one of these units, at<br />
least not for very long. The motor<br />
wouldn’t take that kind of current load.<br />
However, we found a single Atlas/Roco<br />
chassis will easily pull a 25 car mixed<br />
string of Intermountain, Red Caboose,<br />
and Weaver freight cars on level track<br />
thru some very tight radius curves. A lot<br />
of this is due to today’s better rolling<br />
trucks. And if you’re really fussy about<br />
those 30-year-old can motors, replace<br />
’em. If you want pure brute power for<br />
heavy loads and usage, use the P&D<br />
drive made for this unit.<br />
Truck Rework<br />
Having used the Atlas/Roco chassis<br />
in a bunch of different conversions and<br />
kitbashes, we have concluded the weakest<br />
link in the chassis is the trucks. As<br />
beautifully detailed as those side frames<br />
are, they do need a bit of rework. Anyone<br />
who’s owned an Atlas/Roco unit<br />
knows the side frames are difficult to<br />
remove for maintenance. And you can<br />
2<br />
Sideframe mounting Boss<br />
easily break off the bosses that retain the<br />
side frames to the truck.<br />
How to fix it? It’s easy. See Figure 2<br />
taken from the original Atlas/Roco<br />
Maintenance & Repair Manual. Atlas<br />
Tool was kind enough to grant us permission<br />
to reproduce these drawings for<br />
this article. In Figure 2, you’ll see the<br />
downward pointing cast-on boss that<br />
retains the truck’s side frame. Turn the<br />
chassis over and place it in a cradle.<br />
Remove the four screws that retain the<br />
truck’s bottom cover plate. Watch for<br />
those pesky little springs that equalize<br />
the wheel sets. Remove the wheel sets,<br />
then the springs and place the lot into an<br />
empty cottage cheese container.<br />
If the side frames are still attached,<br />
gently bend them away from the truck<br />
just enough to clear the end pins. Then,<br />
slide the side frame down and away<br />
from the truck. You can see this clearly<br />
in Figure 2. If the side frame mounting<br />
boss is broken off, re-attach to the truck<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 53
with liquid plastic cement. If the side<br />
frame is a tight fit, gently file the sides of<br />
the bosses and the insides of the side<br />
frames to allow an easy slip-fit of the<br />
side frames over the bosses. Jerry<br />
sprayed the side frames with a base coat<br />
of Floquil Grimy Black followed by a<br />
dusting of Floquil Rail Brown to give<br />
the unit a clean but used look.<br />
Before re-assembling the trucks, we<br />
removed the original couplers. Again<br />
see Figure 2. The couplers will slide out<br />
after unsnapping the retainer clips.<br />
We like to completely degrease the<br />
gear box gears and wheelset gears, then<br />
freshly lubricate all gears with Labelle’s<br />
excellent #102 Gear Lube.<br />
At this juncture, the builder must<br />
decide if you’re going to use the original<br />
wheels (which we do not recommend)<br />
or replace with the drop-in North West<br />
Short Line (NWSL) wheel sets listed in<br />
the Bill of Materials. The issue with the<br />
original wheel sets are their deep<br />
flanges. Atlas/Roco units will bump and<br />
they may pick your switch points on<br />
code 100 rail. We recommend putting<br />
the original wheelsets out alongside the<br />
engine house.<br />
NWSL replacement wheel sets are<br />
available in three tread widths; 0.125"<br />
P48, 0.145", and 0.172". We used the<br />
0.145" width on the Soo unit and 0.172"<br />
width on the Milwaukee unit. Our conclusion:<br />
use the 0.172" tread. The 0.145"<br />
width works okay on hand laid and<br />
House of Duddy code 100 rail, but it<br />
doesn’t seem to like running on the<br />
older code 148 Atlas rail. This could be<br />
due to the way Atlas track is gauged.<br />
The 0.145" tread width will find its way<br />
between and even drop between the rail<br />
heads at times.<br />
Once the trucks are assembled, you<br />
can’t tell the difference between the two<br />
wheel widths. We did find that the<br />
NWSL wheel sets in both widths made<br />
intermittent electrical contact on clean<br />
rail due to their blackened surface, so we<br />
cleaned the treads using a small wire<br />
brush in a motor tool to remove the<br />
down the Red Caboose vertical motor<br />
mounting brackets and used two-sided<br />
foam adhesive to retain and insulate the<br />
motor from the Red Caboose frame (See<br />
Figure 4). Additionally, a wire tie strap<br />
may be added to further secure the<br />
motor. The noise problem may have<br />
been due to the Red Caboose frame<br />
being somewhat lighter than the original<br />
Atlas/Roco frame. Perhaps the new<br />
frame couldn’t readily dampen and<br />
absorb the sounds. We also added a<br />
layer of thin bubble wrap inside of the<br />
hood to further reduce noise. The<br />
revised mounting system dramatically<br />
reduced the noise levels. We used the<br />
original universal couplings and motors<br />
in our units.<br />
Weighting the Chassis<br />
It’s difficult to weight the Red<br />
Caboose frame with as much lead as<br />
you can stuff into the original Atlas/Roc<br />
chassis. Even with added lead auto<br />
wheel weights we weren’t able to match<br />
the original stock Atlas Chassis weight.<br />
However, that hasn’t been a problem.<br />
Neither of us will ever pull more than 20<br />
or so plastic cars. The Atlas drives will<br />
easily do that. We placed auto wheel<br />
weights into the fuel tank before it was<br />
attached to the frame. We also added<br />
weights at each end of the motor. No<br />
doubt, some enterprising O scaler will<br />
figure out a way to add more weight. Let<br />
us know if you do.<br />
Wiring<br />
We don’t use DCC so we did not<br />
have to fuss with installing decoders. We<br />
did install Miniatronics HO constant<br />
directional lighting kits. These kits come<br />
complete with headlights, circuitry, and<br />
complete instructions. They work great<br />
in our units. To facilitate shell removal,<br />
we added Miniatronics connectors.<br />
These allow the shell to be unplugged<br />
from the circuitry for maintenance.<br />
Final Assembly<br />
Before we attached the two body<br />
shells to the frames, we ran the two units<br />
sans shells around both layouts to ensure<br />
tracking, wiring, and trucks were all perblackening.<br />
Once this was done, both<br />
chassis ran smooth with no problems<br />
and have been running fine ever since.<br />
NWSL said the blackening was conductive<br />
and hadn’t caused a problem, but it<br />
sure didn’t work for us. So, try the<br />
assembled chassis under power before<br />
you wire brush the wheel sets. When<br />
you reassemble the trucks, be sure to<br />
lightly lubricate the axles and brass<br />
bushings with Labelle’s #108 Light Oil.<br />
The last fixit item for the trucks is the<br />
removal of the cast-on bosses on the<br />
sides of the truck gear boxes. See Figure<br />
3. There are two bosses on either side of<br />
the truck. They must be removed or they<br />
will interfere with the truck movement<br />
in the Red Caboose frame.<br />
3<br />
Remove<br />
The finished trucks are now ready for<br />
installation into the Red Caboose frame.<br />
The trucks are installed just like they are<br />
in the Atlas/Roco chassis. You’ll probably<br />
find like we did that the trucks in the<br />
Red Caboose frame will not be as loosely<br />
mounted as they were in their original<br />
home. You may find you have to remove<br />
a minimal amount of plastic where the<br />
trucks pivot in the Red Caboose frame.<br />
One of our frames required a bit of judicious<br />
filing to loosen up the truck to<br />
where it would freely pivot. Don’t over<br />
do it here. Just enough to loosen up the<br />
truck pivot.<br />
Installing The Motor<br />
We followed the Red Caboose motor<br />
mounting instructions and were disappointed<br />
to find the units were too noisy<br />
for our taste. A study of the problem<br />
revealed that isolating the motor from<br />
the frame was the way to go. We cut<br />
54 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
4<br />
forming properly. Attaching the shell to<br />
the frame is not hard, but it does require<br />
careful handling so as not to knock off<br />
hand rails and the like. We suggest gently<br />
spreading the body shell and slipping<br />
it down over the frame. Make sure the<br />
body locks on the flanges on the bottom<br />
of the motor cradle.<br />
The Red Caboose frame has coupler<br />
boxes correctly sized for Kadee 804 and<br />
805 couplers. We used Kadee 804 couplers.<br />
A pair of long screws at the ends<br />
of the frame retain both the couplers and<br />
the body shell to the frame.<br />
Now, go on out and find an<br />
Atlas/Roco unit and build up your own<br />
GP9. Better yet, build a pair. We figure<br />
you can do this project for under two<br />
hundred bucks per loco. Not bad in<br />
today’s market place. Just for the heck<br />
of it, Jerry and I MU’d the Soo Geep<br />
with a state-of-the-art Atlas<br />
SW-8. Somewhat to our surprise,<br />
the two units ran perfectly<br />
in tandem. That included<br />
running the coupled SW-8 and<br />
the Geep at a couple miles per<br />
hour switching speed. Thirty<br />
years later, the Atlas/Roco<br />
chassis and drive are still doing<br />
their thing, this time in a Red<br />
Caboose GP-9 livery. ◆<br />
Red Caboose GP-9<br />
Bill of Materials<br />
Red Caboose, GP-9 Body Kit<br />
Undecorated RC-502<br />
Atlas/Roco, F-9 chassis, trucks, and<br />
drive<br />
Northwest Short Line<br />
2523-6, 0.172" or #2524-6, 0 .145" tread<br />
wheel sets<br />
P& D Hobbies, #2722 MU connector set<br />
- 6 cables per end,<br />
#1027 lift rings<br />
MV Products<br />
LS29 classification lens<br />
Miniatronics, CL-013-01 Fwd/Rev<br />
constant lighting kit , #50-001-02 2-pin<br />
micro-mini connector set<br />
Badger<br />
MODELflex paint, #16-143 Milwaukee<br />
Orange, #16-01 Engine Black, #16-18<br />
Soo Maroon (Not currently listed), #16-<br />
19 Soo Deluxe Gold<br />
Floquil 110009 solvent-based primer<br />
3M Scotch® brand Magic Tape<br />
Microscale #48-321 Milwaukee Road<br />
decals, #48-325 Soo Line (2 sets<br />
required)<br />
Labelle, Gear Lube #102, Light Oil #108<br />
Resources:<br />
Yahoo O<strong>Trains</strong> Email group:<br />
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Otrains<br />
P&D Hobby Shop, 31280 Groesbeck,<br />
Fraser, MI 48026, Ph# 586-296-6116,<br />
www.pdhobbyshop.com<br />
North West Short Line, PO Box 423,<br />
Seattle, WA 98111, www.nwsl.com<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 55
Indianapolis<br />
Midwest Fall<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong> Meet<br />
Top of the page: The Forthenback Mining Co. Railroad by Al Askerberg of<br />
Columbus, Ohio. This approximately 24" x 36" in On30. Now that’s O scale in<br />
a small space.<br />
Above: HO AHM Heisler converted to O gauge owned by Norm Hinkle.<br />
Upper left: OST publisher Joe Giannovario (far right) presents the model awards to<br />
the contest winners. From the left is Tony Michel, Andrew Sunderland, Jim Canter<br />
(Indy show host), and Norm Hinkle.<br />
Lower left: Tony Michel’s scratchbuilt C.W. North & Co, engine house.<br />
Below: Andrew Sunderland’s Los Angeles Pacific interurban.<br />
56 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
Above & Center: more scenes from the Forthenback Mining Co. Railroad<br />
Below: Central Indiana O <strong>Scale</strong>rs modular railroad.<br />
More photos on next page...<br />
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100 PCC Trolley Cars Ran in Brooklyn – Greller . . .33.00<br />
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Green Bay & Western Color Pictorial – Nelson . . . .55.00<br />
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Maine Narrow Gauge Railroads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19.25<br />
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Missouri Pacific Pass. <strong>Trains</strong>–The Postwar Years -Dorin .26.25<br />
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Northern Pacific – Sanders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68.00<br />
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The Modoc-Southern Pacific’s Backdoor to Oregon . . .45.00<br />
Thunder of Their Passing–D&RG & Cumbres & Toltec H/C ..50.00<br />
Tracks of My Years- Flanary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23.25<br />
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Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 57
Car & Locomotive Shop — SP 5000 4-10-2<br />
Pilot Model Engine #5036<br />
SOUTHERN PACIFIC 5000 CLASS 4-10-2, 3 CYLINDER: The C&LS is importing an O scale model of the SP-5000 in four<br />
different detail versions based on engines numbered 5021, 5024, 5036, and 5048 late in their careers. The pilot model<br />
pictured above shows our new builder’s willingness and ability to create models of the highest caliber in detail, quality and<br />
operation. This superb model should be available by the time you read this. Checkout the C&LS website for more pictures and<br />
information and future ads in this magazine.<br />
Car & Locomotive Shop, PO Box 20, Asbury NJ 08802 — Website: http://www.car-locomotive.com<br />
E-mail: carlocoshop@enter.net — Ph/Fax: 908-479-4736. Fax after 4th ring.<br />
Above: Several vendors received awards from the show’s promoters. Included were Brian & Melissa Marsh of Overland Models with a Lifetime<br />
Achievement award, Rich Yoder for Manufacturer of the Year award, Norm Pullen of Norm’s O <strong>Scale</strong> for Vendor of the Year. Not shown is John<br />
Smith of Pecos River Brass who received a Circle of Excellence Award for his work on the 2003 O scale convention.<br />
58 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03<br />
Left: Phil Camp threw<br />
together this C&O loading<br />
dock for the contest. We<br />
liked it, so we shot it.<br />
Indy<br />
Meet
Buy–Sell–Trade<br />
Buy-Sell-Trade ads are $5 for 30 words plus your address information. Additional words are $0.25 each. Subscribers are permitted one free ad per subscription<br />
cycle. All B-S-T ads are prepaid. You may send ads by postal service with a check or money order. Ads sent by email or called in must use a credit<br />
card. See our contact info on page 2.<br />
FOR SALE: Adirondack Car & Foundry products,<br />
Weaver, NWSL, Grandt Line, Kadee<br />
couplers, Athearn trucks, Intermountain (while<br />
supplies last), OSN, OST. Contact Ed Reutling,<br />
AC&F. PH: 423-477-5790. Email: reutling@xtn.net<br />
Ed Reutling, 160 Harwood Rd.,<br />
Gray, TN 37615-3728<br />
FOR SALE: Intermountain built up cars! Large<br />
inventory... Box cars, Reefers, Gondolas,<br />
Hoppers, Tankers, $39. If you demand Intermountain<br />
quality, buy while they are available.Ph:<br />
727-391-3135. John Clemens,<br />
5273 97 Way N, St. Petersburg, FL 33708-<br />
3752<br />
FOR SALE: YODER Chesapeake & Ohio hoppers,<br />
dreadnaught, oval/notched ends,<br />
unptd, $175; Painted C&O cars all versions<br />
$199; Pennsylvania Glca hoppers $175;<br />
Western Maryland woodchips, covered hoppers<br />
$175. SASE. (727) 391-3135. John<br />
Clemens, 5273 97 Way N, St. Petersburg, FL<br />
33708-3752<br />
WANTED: 2 rail - Anything C&O (except<br />
brass)- especially hoppers 1930s-1960s, passenger<br />
cars, Atlas SW 8/9s, and structures.<br />
Email me for list [eef@medicine.wisc.edu].<br />
Ned Ferguson.<br />
Central’s Latest Releases<br />
GP38-2, GP40-2, SD40-2, SD40T-2 & SD45T-2<br />
GP40-2<br />
The finest in modern O <strong>Scale</strong> Brass. 2 or 3 rail operation. Machined<br />
brass frames and fuel tanks, Pittman motor with dual flywheels. Your<br />
choice of gear ratios, wheelsets, detail parts, etc. Custom built to<br />
your specs. Kits $650 - $800. Custom built, painted and lettered<br />
$1100 to $1400.<br />
Central Locomotive Works<br />
17525 Alder St Ste 46 • Hesperia CA 92345<br />
ph 760-244-9222 • fax 760-244-9322<br />
e-mail clw2000@earthlink.net<br />
www.centrallocomotiveworks.com<br />
TR<br />
A IN MERICA presents<br />
STUDIOS<br />
FOR SALE: PECOS RIVER BRASS factory<br />
painted Clinchfield, AT&SF cabooses, tankers,<br />
flats, Greenville boxcars, grains cars, Pullman-<br />
Standard, GATX covered hoppers, Airslides:<br />
$199. Listings, SASE. Ph: 727-391-3135.<br />
John Clemens, 5273 97 Way N, St. Petersburg,<br />
FL 33708-3752<br />
FOR SALE: Very rare MG ATSF 4-6-4 w/Icken<br />
drive, beautiful new paint job. USH ATSF 4-6-<br />
2, custom painted. USH SP MT-3 mint OB.<br />
Sunset ATSF 2-8-0 new OB. Complete details:<br />
SSAE or email [gnschrader@aol.com]. Ph:<br />
408-227-9491. Gary Schrader, 4201<br />
Kingspark Dr, San Jose, CA 95136-2319<br />
FOR SALE: Vehicles that won’t embarrass you<br />
or your trains: Brooklyn, Conquest, Durham<br />
Classics, 43rd Avenue, Goldvarg, Herb<br />
Deeks kits, Madison, US Model Mint, USA<br />
Models, Western, others. FAX 412-766-4213.<br />
Mail Order <strong>Trains</strong> Plus, 349 Roosevelt Rd,<br />
Pittsburgh, PA 15237-1024<br />
WANTED: Gloorcraft PRR N6B cabin car,<br />
Walthers FP6-O 80’ Pullman Solarium 3<br />
Cmpt, 1 Dr rm, B.L.O. Pullman Standard Car<br />
Co Heavyweights: 3980 14 Single Bedroom<br />
Pullman, 3997 13 double bedroom. Email:<br />
[towrowrow@yahoo.com], Ph: 518-482-<br />
2893 Frederick J Talasco, 971 New Scotland<br />
PENNSYLVANIA<br />
RAILROAD<br />
X37 Boxcars <br />
Four road #’s: 65400, 65947, 66302, 66398.<br />
NEW 12 39 BLT 12-39. Beautiful detailing<br />
and add-ons. Nicely weighted. Custom run<br />
by Intermountain Railway. Hi-rail or scale.<br />
$45.00. Add $9.00 for hi-rail diecast trucks<br />
and couplers. Plus shipping & handling.<br />
ANDERSEN’S TRAIN STATION<br />
21 Central St Holliston MA 01746<br />
Phone 508-429-6494 FAX 508-429-7380<br />
Call or email for our In Stock List<br />
Email Norm_Andersen@msn.com<br />
Rd, Albany, NY 12208-1111<br />
FOR SALE: 1 SS 4-8-2 OB TRO, $875, 1<br />
Williams N&W 2-6-6-4, OB TRO $975.<br />
Chuck Burns, Ph: 254-547-3932. Miniature<br />
Locomotive & Car Shop, 803 Beaver Lane,<br />
Copperas Cove, TX 76522-7601<br />
WANTED: Overland SAL E-4, ABA, and broken<br />
Roco Atlas & Red Caboose drives. Ph:<br />
336-861-0006, email<br />
[rlyoungblood@afo.net], Robert L Youngblood,<br />
4331 Hoover Hill Rd, Trinity, NC<br />
27370-8554<br />
WANTED: Electric Shops kits or parts, CLW<br />
PA body and E or F nose castings. I am<br />
always interested in parts, drivers, frames, car<br />
sides, etc. Ph: 440-417-1892. Jerold<br />
Townsend, 985 Abbey Dr, Madison, OH<br />
44057-9784<br />
FOR SALE: Thinning out O scale steam,<br />
diesel, freight cars, books, etc. Free List. Ph:<br />
330-758-1561 William R Burns, 7455 Westview<br />
Dr, Youngstown, OH 44512-5550<br />
WILL TRADE: 1 Art Director who spills ink<br />
occasionally on my column for a few Kadee<br />
coupler springs. I will make up price difference<br />
for springs. Brian Scace c/o this magazine.<br />
NORM’S<br />
O SCALE<br />
<strong>Trains</strong> & More<br />
Buy, Sell, Trade!<br />
www.normsoscale.com<br />
info@normsoscale.com<br />
41 Roosevelt Trail, Route<br />
302. S. Casco, ME 04077<br />
Ph: 207-655-2550<br />
<strong>Scale</strong> Command<br />
Are you ready for everything you could ever dream of in a wireless remote operating system and then some? Then 2-rail <strong>Scale</strong><br />
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switches; realistic on-board digital sounds; 100% Kadee-compatible operating scale couplers; and more! <strong>Scale</strong> Command can be<br />
added to any 2-rail O scale locomotive. <strong>Scale</strong> Command is the most affordable command⁄control system ever offered for O scale.<br />
V isit our website for more information on how <strong>Scale</strong> Command can benefit you.<br />
Train America Studios • 4137 Boardman–Canfield Rd., Ste LL02 • Canfield, Ohio 44406<br />
Hours: Mon-Fri, 10AM -6PM • Voice: 330-533-7181 • Fax: 330-533-7208 • email: info@scale command.com • web: www.scale command.com<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 59
Events<br />
November 2003<br />
1, Wind Gap, Pennsylvania<br />
Eastern “O” <strong>Scale</strong>rs O <strong>Scale</strong> 2-Rail O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
Swap Meet - Plainfield Fire Hall, 6480 Sullivan<br />
Trail. From 9 am to 1 pm. Admission $5 ($1<br />
discount on admission is given if you bring an<br />
index card with your name and address). Vendors:<br />
table $16 (includes 1 admission), additional<br />
tables $12. Info: EOS, PO Box 1781,<br />
Bensalem, PA 19020; (215) 639-3864; [web:<br />
http:⁄⁄www.EasternO<strong>Scale</strong>rs.com]<br />
1,2,8,9,15,16 Youngstown, Ohio<br />
Youngstown Model RR Assoc OPEN HOUSE,<br />
located at the corner of Raccoon and Four<br />
Mile Run Rd., Open 12:00 pm – 6:00 pm all 6<br />
days $2.00 per person under 12 free. Info:<br />
Dean DeMain, yomodelrrclub@yahoo.com or<br />
call 330-799-8691.<br />
15, Strongsville, Ohio (Cleveland area)<br />
Annual Western Reserve O <strong>Scale</strong> Meet at the<br />
Holiday Inn Select in Strongsville. From 9 am<br />
to 3 pm. Admission: $5; tables $20. Info: Bob<br />
Boeddener, 32165 Hickory Ln, Avon Lake, OH<br />
44012. Phone: 440-933-7169.<br />
8 & 9, 28, 29 & 30, Holly, Michigan<br />
Detroit Model Railroad Club Open House, 104<br />
N Saginaw, Holly Michigan, 248-634-5811.<br />
Noon to 5:00 PM each day. Admission: Adults<br />
$3, Seniors 65 & up $2, Kids/Teens 5-18<br />
$1.50, Under 5 FREE.<br />
28-30, North Haledon, New Jersey<br />
Model Engineers RR Club of New Jersey Annual<br />
Open House, 569 High Mountain Rd, N<br />
Haledon NJ 07508. Fridays 7 - 10 PM, Saturday<br />
& Sunday, 2 - 5 PM. Admission: $4, children<br />
free with an adult. For info call Paul<br />
Harbord before 9 PM at 973-427-4905.<br />
December 2003<br />
5-7, 12-14, North Haledon, New Jersey<br />
Model Engineers RR Club of New Jersey Annual<br />
Open House, 569 High Mountain Rd, N<br />
Haledon NJ 07508. Fridays 7 - 10 PM, Saturday<br />
& Sunday, 2 - 5 PM. Admission: $4, children<br />
free with an adult. For info call Paul<br />
Harbord before 9 PM at 973-427-4905.<br />
14, St. Paul, MN<br />
Twin City Model Railroad Museum/Circus<br />
Train Noon - 5pm, $2.00 (under 5 free),<br />
TCRMRM, 1021 Bandana Blvd. East, Suite<br />
222, St. Paul, MN 55108, 651-647-9628,<br />
www.tcmrm.org<br />
22,23,26,29&30 St. Paul, MN<br />
Twin City Model Railroad Museum/Holiday<br />
Express 11am - 7pm, $2.00 (under 5 free),<br />
TCRMRM, 1021 Bandana Blvd. East, Suite<br />
222, St. Paul, MN 55108, 651-647-9628,<br />
www.tcmrm.org<br />
28-30, North Haledon, New Jersey-<br />
Model Engineers RR Club of New Jersey Annual<br />
Open House, 569 High Mountain Rd, N<br />
Haledon NJ 07508. Fridays 7 - 10 PM, Saturday<br />
& Sunday, 2 - 5 PM. Admission: $4, children<br />
free with an adult. For info call Paul<br />
Harbord before 9 PM at 973-427-4905.<br />
20-21, Greensboro, Maryland<br />
Caroline County Public Library Toy Train &<br />
Model Railroad Exhibit. North County Library<br />
at 101 Cedar St. From 10 am to 3 pm. Free<br />
Admission. For more info contact Richard O<br />
Smith, Branch Manager, 410-482-2173.<br />
January 2004<br />
10 & 11, Holly, Michigan<br />
Detroit Model Railroad Club Open House, 104<br />
N Saginaw, Holly Michigan, 248-634-5811.<br />
Noon to 5:00 PM each day. Admission: Adults<br />
$3, Seniors 65 & up $2, Kids/Teens 5-18<br />
$1.50, Under 5 FREE.<br />
10 & 11, Albany, Georgia<br />
Flint River Model RR Club of Albany, Ga., 13th<br />
Annual Model Train Show. Open to the public.<br />
Sat 9am - 5 pm, Sun 11am - 4pm. Adults $3,<br />
12-18yo $1, Under 12 free w/adult. For info<br />
or table rental contact Jimmie Swann during<br />
evenings at 229-883-3517, or write to FRMR-<br />
RC, PO Box 884, Albany, GA 31702-0884.<br />
11, Youngstown, Ohio<br />
Youngstown Model Railroad Assn., Flea Market.<br />
McMenamy's Hall on Rt. 422 in Niles,<br />
Open 10:30 am - 4:00 pm, $3.00 per person<br />
under 12 free.Info: Jim Pope e-mail: yomodelrrclub@yahoo.com<br />
or call 330-547-3614.<br />
July 2004<br />
22-25, Washington, D.C.<br />
2004 O <strong>Scale</strong> National Convention at<br />
the Hyatt Regency, Crystal City, Virginia<br />
at Reagan National Airport. Conven-<br />
tion and Dealer registration info is available<br />
from the Capital Area O <strong>Scale</strong>rs, 2004 O<br />
<strong>Scale</strong> National Convention, 10401 Grandin<br />
Rd, Silver Spring, MD 20902, or email to<br />
sonc2004@hotmail.com.<br />
Advertisers Index<br />
Accurate O <strong>Scale</strong> 15<br />
Andersen’s Train Station 59<br />
AtlasO<br />
IBC<br />
BTS 48<br />
California Roadbed Co. 9<br />
Car & Locomotive Shop 58<br />
Central Locomotive Works 59<br />
Chicagoland 25<br />
Eagles Nest Miniatures 49<br />
Get Real Productions 49<br />
Hackworth Model <strong>Trains</strong> 25<br />
House of Duddy 20<br />
Joint Line Reproductions 15<br />
Keil-Line Products 9<br />
NCE Corp 48<br />
Norm’s O <strong>Scale</strong> 59<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong> Guide 39<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong> Realty 9<br />
O <strong>Scale</strong> Signals 18<br />
Old Pullman 60<br />
Overland Models 40<br />
P&D Hobby Shop<br />
IFC<br />
Pecos River Brass<br />
BC<br />
PRR Brass 15<br />
Public Delivery Track 47<br />
Rail Photos Unlimited 15<br />
Rons Books 57<br />
Russian River RR Co. 15<br />
RY Models 42<br />
<strong>Scale</strong>d World 20<br />
SONC 2004 39<br />
Stevenson Preservation Lines 15<br />
Suncoast Models 18<br />
Sunset⁄3rd Rail 13, 21<br />
T Bone Models 9<br />
Train America Studios 59<br />
Weaver 20<br />
Whitehall Models 49<br />
60 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
OST Dealer List<br />
Arkansas<br />
Hobby Shack<br />
1200 John Harden Dr<br />
Jacksonville, AR 72076<br />
501-982-6836<br />
Mickey’s Model Works<br />
611 Court St, Ste 4<br />
Conway,AR 72032-5417<br />
501-450-9423<br />
Arizona<br />
Coronado <strong>Scale</strong> Models<br />
1544 E Cypress St<br />
Phoenix,AZ 85006<br />
602-254-9650<br />
California<br />
All Aboard Model RR<br />
Emporium<br />
3867 Pacific Coast Hwy<br />
Torrance,CA 90505<br />
310-791-2637<br />
Bruce’s Train Shop<br />
2752 Marconi Ave<br />
Sacramento,CA 95821<br />
916-485-5288<br />
Fulton Station<br />
454 Larkfield Shop Cntr<br />
Santa Rosa CA 95439<br />
707-523-3522<br />
Just <strong>Trains</strong><br />
5650-H Imhoff Dr<br />
Concord,CA 94520<br />
925-685-6566<br />
Original Whistle Stop<br />
2490 E Colorado Blvd<br />
Pasadena,CA 91107<br />
626-796-7791<br />
Railroad Hobbies<br />
119 Vernon St<br />
Roseville CA 95678<br />
916-782-6067<br />
Reed’s Hobbies LLC<br />
8039 La Mesa Blvd.<br />
La Mesa,CA 91941<br />
619-464-1672<br />
Train Shop<br />
1829 Pruneridge Ave<br />
Santa Clara,CA 95050<br />
408-296-1050<br />
Colorado<br />
Caboose Hobbies, Inc.<br />
500 S. Broadway<br />
Denver,CO 80209<br />
303-777-6766<br />
Delaware<br />
Mitchells’<br />
2303 Concord Pike<br />
Wilmington, DE 19803<br />
302-652-3258<br />
<strong>Trains</strong> & Hobbies<br />
313 Newark Shopping Cntr.<br />
Newark,DE 19711<br />
302-266-8063<br />
Florida<br />
Kirkland Hobbies<br />
187 Concord Circle<br />
Panama City FL 32405<br />
850-215-1973<br />
Georgia<br />
Riverdale Station<br />
6632 Hwy 85<br />
Riverdale,GA 30045<br />
770-991-6085<br />
Iowa<br />
Caboose Stop Hobbies<br />
301 Main St<br />
Cedar Falls,IA 50613<br />
800-642-7012<br />
Illinois<br />
Chicagoland Hobbies<br />
6017 Northwest Hwy<br />
Chicago,IL 60631<br />
773-775-4848<br />
Des Plaines Hobbies<br />
1468 Lee St<br />
Des Plaines,IL 60018<br />
847-297-2118<br />
Hill’s Hobby Shop<br />
10 Prairie Ave<br />
Park Ridge,IL 60068<br />
847-823-4464<br />
Mike’s <strong>Scale</strong> Rails<br />
3008 N Sterling<br />
Peoria,IL 61604<br />
309-689-0656<br />
Rails Unlimited<br />
126 Will Scarlet<br />
Elgin,IL 60120<br />
847-697-5353<br />
Indiana<br />
Big Four Hobbies<br />
1005 E Main St<br />
Plainfield IN 46168<br />
317-837-1024<br />
Mishawaka Railyard Inc<br />
410 S Spring St<br />
Mishawaka IN 46545<br />
574-252-7245<br />
Kansas<br />
J’s Hobby Haven<br />
5303 Johnson Dr<br />
Mission,KS 66205<br />
913-432-8820<br />
Maine<br />
Norm’s O <strong>Scale</strong><br />
PO Box 147<br />
S Casco,ME 04077<br />
207-655-2550<br />
Massachusetts<br />
Modeler’s Junction<br />
88 Lowell St<br />
Methuen,MA 01844<br />
978-683-0885<br />
The Toy Doctor<br />
17 Meredith Road<br />
Forrestdale, MA 02644<br />
508-477-1186<br />
Tucker’s Hobbies<br />
29 Bacon St<br />
Warren,MA 01083<br />
413-436-5318<br />
Michigan<br />
Eureka <strong>Trains</strong><br />
1219 Eureka Rd<br />
Wyandotte,MI 48192<br />
734-284-0521<br />
P&D Hobby Shop<br />
31280 Groesbeck Hwy<br />
Fraser,MI 48026<br />
586-296-6116<br />
Rider’s Hobby Shop<br />
2055 28th St SE<br />
Grand Rapids MI<br />
616-247-9933<br />
Minnesota<br />
Second Ave Shops<br />
173 2nd Ave SE<br />
New Brighton,MN 55112<br />
651-633-5722<br />
Missouri<br />
Marty’s Model Railroads<br />
9622 Gravois Rd<br />
St Louis,MO 63123-4345<br />
314-638-8250<br />
North Carolina<br />
Dry Bridge Station<br />
236 N Main St<br />
Mount Airy,NC 27030<br />
336-786-9811<br />
Nevada<br />
High Sierra Models<br />
4020 Kietzke Ln<br />
Reno,NV 89502<br />
775-825-5557<br />
New Hampshire<br />
Custom <strong>Trains</strong><br />
PO Box 48<br />
Bath,NH 03740<br />
603-747-3492<br />
New Jersey<br />
Big Little Railroad Shop<br />
206 W Main St<br />
Somerville,NJ 08876<br />
908-429-0220<br />
New Mexico<br />
<strong>Trains</strong> West Inc.<br />
3351A Candelaria Rd NE<br />
Albuquerque,NM 87107<br />
505-881-2322<br />
New York<br />
K-Val Hobbies<br />
277 Hinman Ave<br />
Buffalo,NY 14216<br />
716-875-2837<br />
Ohio<br />
20th Century Models<br />
32575 Pettibone Rd<br />
Solon,OH 44139-5454<br />
440-248-3055<br />
M&S <strong>Trains</strong><br />
4157 W Broad St.<br />
Columbus OH 43228<br />
614-274-1178<br />
Terminal Hobby Supply<br />
10200 Springfield Pike<br />
Cincinnati,OH 45215<br />
513-326-3613<br />
Western Hills Photo &<br />
Hobby<br />
6319 Glenway Ave<br />
Cincinnati,OH 45211<br />
513-661-2141<br />
Oregon<br />
Whistle Stop <strong>Trains</strong><br />
11724 SE Division St<br />
Portland,OR 97266<br />
503-761-1822<br />
Pennsylvania<br />
C&E Branchline RR Shop<br />
102 W. Grove St.<br />
Dunmore, PA 18509<br />
570-347-7909<br />
English’s Model RR Supply<br />
21 Howard St<br />
Montoursville,PA 17754<br />
570-368-2516<br />
G&K Hobbies<br />
720 Gordon St<br />
Reading,PA 19601-2312<br />
610-374-8598<br />
Lin’s Junction<br />
128 S Line St<br />
Lansdale,PA 19446<br />
215-412-7711<br />
Mainline Hobby Supply<br />
15066 Buchanan Trail E<br />
Blue Ridge Summit,PA<br />
17214<br />
717-794-2860<br />
Strasburg Train Shop<br />
Rte 741 E, Box 130<br />
Strasburg,PA 17579<br />
717-687-0464<br />
Tennessee<br />
Adirondack Car & Foundry<br />
160 Harwood Rd.<br />
Gray TN 37615<br />
423-477-5790<br />
Hobbytown USA, 8901<br />
Town & Country Circle,<br />
Knoxville, TN, 37923, 865-<br />
690-1099<br />
Smoky Mountain Model<br />
<strong>Trains</strong> Ltd<br />
1933 Pittman Center Rd<br />
Sevierville TN<br />
37876<br />
865-428-8595<br />
Texas<br />
Discount Model <strong>Trains</strong> Inc.<br />
4641 Ratliff Lane<br />
Addison, TX 75001<br />
972-931-8135<br />
Pecos River Brass<br />
560 E Church St<br />
Lewisville,TX 75057<br />
972-219-0202<br />
Virginia<br />
Railyard Hobby Shop<br />
7547 Williamson Rd<br />
Roanoke,VA 24019<br />
540-362-1714<br />
Walt's Hobby Shop,<br />
PO Box 1805,<br />
Petersburg, VA, 23805,<br />
804-861-1333<br />
Washington<br />
Central Hobbies<br />
1574 Gulf Rd #1136<br />
Point Roberts WA 98281<br />
604-431-0771<br />
The Inside Gateway<br />
14725 Northeast 20th<br />
Bellevue, WA 98007<br />
425-747-2016<br />
Wisconsin<br />
Depot Drygoods<br />
220 W Wisconsin Ave<br />
Neenah,WI 54956<br />
920-725-8854<br />
Greenfield News & Hobby<br />
6815 W Layton St<br />
Greenfield,WI 53220<br />
414-281-1800<br />
Non-US Dealers<br />
Canada<br />
George’s <strong>Trains</strong><br />
510 Mt Pleasant Rd<br />
Toronto Ontario M4S 2M2<br />
416-489-9783<br />
Switzerland<br />
Trainmaster<br />
3 Hochweidstr. Kilchberg<br />
CH-8802<br />
011-411-715-3666<br />
United Kingdom<br />
Quince Valley Designs<br />
17 West Street<br />
Weedon,Northants<br />
NN7 4QU<br />
01327 341374<br />
Nov/Dec '03 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 61
Observations<br />
Joe Giannovario, Editor⁄Publisher<br />
The big news at O <strong>Scale</strong> Central tonight is the price reduction<br />
on O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>. Because we’re now printing<br />
sufficient quantities, we’ve lowered the cover price of the magazine<br />
to $5.95 per copy and the subscription rate to $30 per<br />
year for U.S. subscribers. For those who recently renewed<br />
their subscriptions at $36 a year, we’ve added an additional<br />
copy to your subscription to make up the difference. If you<br />
thought OST was a good value at $36, it’s an even better value<br />
at $30. The lower cover price will help boost our newsstand<br />
impulse buyers, too.<br />
You may notice our illustrations look nicer in this issue.<br />
That’s because we now have two professional illustrators we<br />
can tap to do drawings for us. I want to thank both Carey<br />
Hinch and Richard Gardner (both were entrants in our Layout<br />
Contest) for their support of OST. You can get a good idea of<br />
both their work in this issue.<br />
Another name that needs mentioning here is Brian Scace.<br />
Brian has been “promoted” to Associate Editor of OST. I wish<br />
that meant something monetarily but it’s more to recognize<br />
Brian’s extraordinary contributions to OST.<br />
Speaking of Brian, we tapped him to put together our first<br />
book, A Guide to Modern O <strong>Scale</strong>. Brian had the unenviable<br />
task of pulling together information from a wide variety of<br />
sources and integrating that with special sections written by<br />
OST contributors Ted Byrne, Gene Deimling, Bobber Gibbs<br />
and Neville Rossiter. The end result is a resource guide to the<br />
latest in O scale that has never been available before. I’m really<br />
pleased with it and I think you will be, too. Check the ad on<br />
page 39 for details on price.<br />
We just got back from the show in Indianapolis and I have<br />
to tell you that Jim Canter and crew did a great job. Over 400<br />
people attended the show. I appreciated meeting some of our<br />
subscribers and putting faces with names. We also picked up a<br />
passle of new subscribers, too.<br />
One thing I really liked about the Indy show is the schedule,<br />
Friday 3:00 PM to 9:00 PM, and then Saturday from 9:00 AM<br />
until 3:00 PM. We were able to fly in Friday morning and then<br />
leave Saturday evening. That worked out great for us as we<br />
were finalizing this issue and didn’t have to spend too much<br />
time on the road. In fact, it worked out so well, we have photos<br />
from Indy in this issue.<br />
We were proud to be the official sponsor of the model contest<br />
at Indy. There were many fine model submissions. Congratulations<br />
to Tony Michel (1st place), Andrew Sunderland<br />
(2nd place) and Norm Hinkle (3rd place) on their awards.<br />
You’ll find photos of their models in this issue and a picture of<br />
me handing them their OST t-shirts. They also each won a free<br />
subscription to OST.<br />
In my last column I wrote about people who don’t have<br />
Internet access. There’s a letter this issue from someone praising<br />
me for bringing that up. On the other side of the fence is a<br />
note I received from John Smith of Pecos River which was too<br />
late to put on the Letters page. So I include it here:<br />
“By the by, with regards to your last editorial about<br />
printed catalogs and those without Internet [access], I<br />
have these two comments.<br />
“It is just too costly to print catalogs for a few people<br />
that are too stubborn [and] resist computer and Internet<br />
technology. There are many small garage operations that<br />
just don’t have the budget to advertise, let alone print catalogs.<br />
Even companies like Keil Line that have been<br />
around for some time, don’t have the time to keep up<br />
with a printed catalog and diagrams of all of their parts.<br />
Don’t have the staff, or money, or time to do a catalog<br />
and do the product as well.<br />
“Second, it is time for anyone on the face of the earth,<br />
with enough spare time and money to play with trains to<br />
shuck out a few hundred bucks for a computer or a few<br />
minutes to go to the public library with the website<br />
address and learn how to research what they want to<br />
know about. [At the library access] is FREE, and<br />
although I have not found the Internet a great place to<br />
sell stuff, it is the perfect research tool. And there is a<br />
librarian to assist you, no matter what your age or computer<br />
skills are.”<br />
John does bring up some good points. Computers are<br />
cheaper now than ever and usually come preset for Internet<br />
access. Both Apple and Microsoft make it an almost trivial<br />
task to get online. (When I first set up a website in 1994, you<br />
had to know Unix to post a web page!) And, virtually every<br />
library in the country offers free net access.<br />
But, there is still a significant percentage of homes without<br />
Internet access and even without computers. We get a fair<br />
number of subscription requests and renewals by snail mail, so<br />
I know there are non-Internet users reading OST. If you’re a<br />
vendor and you want their business, then you had better be<br />
able to accommodate them.<br />
Well, that’s it for this issue. As always, we’re interested in<br />
your articles, comments, ideas and feedback.<br />
Keep high ballin’! Hey Scace, where’s the booze? ◆<br />
62 • O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> - Nov/Dec '03
(Item #7883)<br />
Get the<br />
wheels of industry turning on<br />
your layout with another handsome release of Atlas O's<br />
RS-1 Locomotive. Sporting new paint schemes with prototypical painting<br />
and printing, each locomotive also features a solid die-cast chassis,<br />
pilots, fuel tank, and detailed truck sideframes, highly detailed body<br />
and cab with separately-applied grab irons, piping and lift rings,<br />
steam generator details as appropriate per road name and all-metal<br />
separately-applied handrail stanchions. Also featured are accuratelydetailed<br />
AAR type B trucks with separately-applied brake cylinders,<br />
brake chains and other details, twin motors with flywheels, directional<br />
headlights and an operating diesel exhaust unit. Head down to your<br />
local hobby shop and pick up yours today!<br />
ITEM # 2-RAIL ITEM#<br />
DESCRIPTION DC/DCC READY 2-RAIL TMCC<br />
O RS-1 LOCOMOTIVE - NEW PAINT SCHEMES!<br />
Undecorated ........................7870 ..................5870<br />
Jersey Central......................7880-1................5880-1<br />
Milwaukee Road ..................7881-1................5881-1<br />
Rock Island..........................7882-1................5882-1<br />
Susquehanna ......................7883-2................5883-2<br />
LIMITED EDITION<br />
Atlantic & East Carolina........7884 ..................5884<br />
Two road numbers are available per road name except for<br />
the Limited Edition Atlantic & East Carolina which has one<br />
road number.<br />
Additional TMCC features:<br />
• Lionel ® TrainMaster ® Command Equipped featuring RailSounds digital<br />
sound system (Including horn, bell diesel-roar sounds, etc.); crew talk (in<br />
command) and more<br />
Additional 2-Rail Features:<br />
• All-wheels insulated with 8-wheel pickup<br />
• DCC ready<br />
• AC/DC operation* (2-Rail)<br />
• Kadee ® -compatible die-cast scale couplers<br />
• Minimum curve: 36" radius<br />
* (DC operation for 2-Rail TMCC requires power inverter-sold separately)<br />
TrainMaster ® Command Control are registered trademarks of and licensed by Lionel, LLC.<br />
(Item #7881 - 3-rail models shown)<br />
(Background photo by Rob Pisani)<br />
For the NEW Atlas O 2003-2004<br />
Fall/Winter Loco & Freight Car Catalog,<br />
please send $3 (plus $1 shipping) to<br />
the address shown below.<br />
(Item #7884 - 3-rail models shown)<br />
Atlas O, LLC • 378 Florence Avenue • Hillside, NJ 07205 • www.atlasO.com • 908-687-9590
New In Stock - from Pecos River Brass<br />
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• 70’ Baggage Mail<br />
(2 versions),<br />
• 85’ Cafe Observation,<br />
FP Green or 2 Tone Grey.<br />
Large Selection of PRB Brass at closeout prices • Check website or send SSAE for list.<br />
Modular Railroad Structures by Pecos River are ALL IN STOCK.<br />
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VERY LIMITED QUANTITIES<br />
Check out our website at http://www.pecosriverbrass.com<br />
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