You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
Build A GATX “Whale Belly” Covered Hopper<br />
Ed Reutling<br />
Some years back, this car was offered in O <strong>Scale</strong> as a<br />
brass import (by the Car Works, I believe). They are few and<br />
far between, so far as availability is concerned, and some<br />
of us may find it hard to justify the cost. Here’s a fairly easy<br />
to do kitbash from the very available Weaver 50’ tank car.<br />
I’m not too sure if the 40’ car will do, but there wouldn’t<br />
be much room to play with. Use the 50’ tank to have some<br />
extra material, in case an error is made.<br />
I learned there are nice plans and an article in the<br />
November 1989 Mainline Modeler regarding the GATX car,<br />
as ordered by SAL and CB&Q. Mainline Modeler has given<br />
me permission to reproduce the drawing for this article (Fig.<br />
1, page 42).<br />
The Body<br />
I would recommend starting with the trapezoidalshaped<br />
flat filler pieces which are easily seen on each side.<br />
I chose 0.080” styrene. Once those are made, cut the bottom<br />
half out of the “donor car” for the sloped bottom and<br />
center saddle sheets of the car. Using the flat filler pieces as<br />
a guide, cut the center section of the tank to fit the center<br />
of the filler (Photo 1). Easy so far.<br />
1<br />
The next step is a bit difficult to do correctly. I’m not that<br />
good at all, so my model slope sheets would never work in<br />
the real world. All I did to determine how long the pieces<br />
of the Weaver tank bottom I needed was to measure the<br />
length from the trapezoidal fillers, and add another 0.025”<br />
for the additional material needed due to the slope of these<br />
two sections. Pictures sure help with this concept! Don’t<br />
forget to cut an angle on both ends of the slope sheets<br />
and note that they have a left and right aspect. When<br />
both halves of the bottom are finished, glue them together<br />
(Photo 2) along the center seam. You have now done<br />
[maybe] the most difficult step in the conversion.<br />
2<br />
Now, you have the top and ends (which might remind<br />
you of the old Sikorsky “Skycrane”), but the top is too long.<br />
Determine the amount to be removed and, using your<br />
trusty razor saw, either remove the extra from the center of<br />
the top section or from one end. Photo 3 (page 43) shows<br />
a way of tightly stretching a slip of paper to give a nice<br />
straight and square line around the half-cylinder. Either<br />
way, you will now have three major pieces to reassemble:<br />
the completed top and end, a separate end, and the new<br />
July/Aug ’08 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 41