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39 - O Scale Trains Magazine Online

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Build A GATX “Whale Belly” Covered Hopper<br />

Ed Reutling<br />

Some years back, this car was offered in O <strong>Scale</strong> as a<br />

brass import (by the Car Works, I believe). They are few and<br />

far between, so far as availability is concerned, and some<br />

of us may find it hard to justify the cost. Here’s a fairly easy<br />

to do kitbash from the very available Weaver 50’ tank car.<br />

I’m not too sure if the 40’ car will do, but there wouldn’t<br />

be much room to play with. Use the 50’ tank to have some<br />

extra material, in case an error is made.<br />

I learned there are nice plans and an article in the<br />

November 1989 Mainline Modeler regarding the GATX car,<br />

as ordered by SAL and CB&Q. Mainline Modeler has given<br />

me permission to reproduce the drawing for this article (Fig.<br />

1, page 42).<br />

The Body<br />

I would recommend starting with the trapezoidalshaped<br />

flat filler pieces which are easily seen on each side.<br />

I chose 0.080” styrene. Once those are made, cut the bottom<br />

half out of the “donor car” for the sloped bottom and<br />

center saddle sheets of the car. Using the flat filler pieces as<br />

a guide, cut the center section of the tank to fit the center<br />

of the filler (Photo 1). Easy so far.<br />

1<br />

The next step is a bit difficult to do correctly. I’m not that<br />

good at all, so my model slope sheets would never work in<br />

the real world. All I did to determine how long the pieces<br />

of the Weaver tank bottom I needed was to measure the<br />

length from the trapezoidal fillers, and add another 0.025”<br />

for the additional material needed due to the slope of these<br />

two sections. Pictures sure help with this concept! Don’t<br />

forget to cut an angle on both ends of the slope sheets<br />

and note that they have a left and right aspect. When<br />

both halves of the bottom are finished, glue them together<br />

(Photo 2) along the center seam. You have now done<br />

[maybe] the most difficult step in the conversion.<br />

2<br />

Now, you have the top and ends (which might remind<br />

you of the old Sikorsky “Skycrane”), but the top is too long.<br />

Determine the amount to be removed and, using your<br />

trusty razor saw, either remove the extra from the center of<br />

the top section or from one end. Photo 3 (page 43) shows<br />

a way of tightly stretching a slip of paper to give a nice<br />

straight and square line around the half-cylinder. Either<br />

way, you will now have three major pieces to reassemble:<br />

the completed top and end, a separate end, and the new<br />

July/Aug ’08 - O <strong>Scale</strong> <strong>Trains</strong> • 41

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