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Contents
Introduction 9
Zion Climbing Gear 10
Leave No Trace 11
Getting to Zion Distances 12
When to Climb 13
Staying in Zion 13
Overview Map 15
History 16
Geology 22
Ratings 26
Key to Maps 27
Map- Lower Canyon 28
Kinesava 29
-Tatoween
-Jolly Green Jam Crack
-Lhasa
-Plumb Line
-Cowboy Ridge
West Temple 36
-Southwest Ridge
-The Big Lebowski
-Gettin’ Western
Three Marys 44
-Left Mary- Gentleman’s Agreement
-Middle Mary- C.T. Chimney, More
Than A Woman
-Right Mary- Immaculate Conception,
Theatre Goddess
The Beehives 48
-Mary Lou Crag
-Hello Mary Lou
Map- Court of the Patriarchs to the Grotto
52
Isaac 53
Historical Essay- Tricks of the Trade
-Freeloader
-Tricks of the Trade
-Iron Like A Lion In Zion
Moroni 59
-Road To Comorah
-Voice From the Dust
-Plan B
-Molecules of Emotion
-Crack In The Cosmic Egg
-The Groper
Lady Mountain 68
-Chimney Sweep
The Spearhead 70
-Iron Messiah
-Up
Cathedral Mountain 72
-Coke Explosion
-Voodoo Rooves
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Map- Angels Landing, Cerberus
Gendarme, Touchstone Wall, and
Weeping Rock 75
Angels Landing 76
-Northeast Buttress
The Organ 79
-Cheyenne Social Club
-The Oxbow Incident
-The Organasm
-Organ Grinder
Angels Landing 82
Historical Essay- Angel Hair
-The Lowe Route
-Angel Hair
-Prodigal Sun
-Ball and Chain
The Minotaur Tower 90
-The Megamahedral
Moonlight Buttress Area 92
Historical Essay- Moonlight Buttress
-Sheer Lunacy
-Lunar Ecstasy
-Moonlight Buttress
-Swoop Gimp Or Be Dust
Map- Moonlight, Temple of Sinawava,
and Leaning Wall 100
Temple of Sinawava 101
-Freak Show
-Toilet Cracks
-The Silverback
-Monkeyfinger
-The Monkey’s Always Send Dude
The Leaning Wall 108
Historical Essay- Space Shot
-Equinox
-Cosmic Trauma
-Space Shot
Desert Shield Area 116
-Desert Shield
-Disco Inferno
Cerberus Gendarme 120
-West Face Routes- George The Animal
Steel, Cynthia’s Handjob, Mean High Tide
-South Face Cragging routes- Cave Crack,
Fails of Power, Cherry Crack etc.
-Touchstone Wall
Weeping Rock Area 128
-The Great Beyond
-Weeping Rock Chimneys
The Great White Throne 130
-Essay- First Ascent of The Great White
Throne
-Northwest Face
-Southwest Face
Map- The Great White Throne and Red
Arch Mountain 138
Red Arch Mountain 140
-Rites of Passage
-Shune’s Buttress
-Wigs In Space
-Bits and Pieces
Carbuncle Buttress 144
-Made to Be Broken
-Riddler’s Delight
-Risk Management
Mountain of The Sun 148
-Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur
-Practice Cliffs
Twin Brothers 151
-South Face
Map- East Temple, Mt. Spry, and The
Tunnel Wall Areas 153
Mt. Spry 154
-Sandblaster
-Central Pillar
-Holy Roller
-Dances With Zully
-Swamp Donkey
-S. Ridge
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Contents
East Temple 158
-Lovelace
-The Fang Spire
-Wisdom Tooth
-Cowboy Bob Goes To Zion
-Uncertain Fates
-Schnaggle Tooth
-Birthday Bash
-Freezer Burn
-10th Division
-Old Man of The Mountain
Tunnel Wall Areas 158
-Cragmont
-The Headache Area
-Ataxia Tower Area
-Kung Fu Theatre
Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain 189
-North Ridge
-The Confluence Area
-West Face Routes- Golden Gate, Take
Back The Rainbow, Smash Mouth
Bridge Mountain 197
-Sand Teton
G1 198
-Unholy Matrimony
-The Reach Around
-Slow and Delirious
Gatekeeper Wall 202
-Locksmith Dihedral
-Gatekeeper Crack
The Watchman 204
-Chastity Crack
-Mythical Kings and Iguanas
-North Ridge
-The Vigil
-Uklaw and Actack
-Pie For Dinner
-Central Pillar, Watchman Direct
-The Hernia
-S and M
-Ivory Coast
-The Silmaril
-Cradle to Grave
-Strikes and Gutters
-Hue and Cry
-Negative Ghostrider
Mt. Allgood 212
-Final Seconds
-The Greer
Johnson Mountain 214
-Mojo Risin
-Mojina
-Force Boyle
-Tree House of Horror
Eagle Crags 218
-Tooele Tower
East Zion
-Aries Butte
-Checkerboard Mesa
I N T R O D U C T I O N
Bouldering 222
Appendix
Index 226
Climbs by Difficulty 229
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