Rattlesnake Instr. Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop
Rattlesnake Instr. Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop
Rattlesnake Instr. Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop
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STAGE H<br />
STANDING RIGGING<br />
Keep your lines handy, sorted by sizes,<br />
and have them all nicely beeswaxed before<br />
you start. For seizings, you can use<br />
cotton, silk, or nylon sewing thread. This<br />
should also be beeswaxed. Keep your<br />
white glue and super glue handy for<br />
dabbing to seizing if necessary, to hold<br />
them in place.<br />
FIG. 61 - Furled Sails<br />
Full size material possible using<br />
"silkspan" but check bulk first<br />
Full<br />
sail<br />
If same material<br />
Cut to about<br />
this size for<br />
furling<br />
1. Shrouds<br />
Begin the standing rigging with the<br />
lower shrouds. The lower deadeyes have<br />
steel rod chain plates. These are made of<br />
brass wire provided in the kit (see figure<br />
62). If you can't work with all this fine<br />
wire, substitute a simple wire strop as<br />
shown in the sketch.<br />
The rigging plan shows the proper sequence<br />
for installing the shrouds. To set<br />
up the shrouds, make a temporary jig of<br />
brass wire to space the deadeyes as you<br />
do the seizing (see figure 63). Make the<br />
wire jig slightly longer than the final<br />
spacing of deadeyes. When you reeve<br />
the lanyards, they will stretch and tighten<br />
the shrouds to the proper final spacing.<br />
You may need to make a test shroud<br />
first to see how much it stretches. This<br />
figure also shows the sequence for reeving<br />
the lanyards. When looking outboard<br />
at any deadeye, you should always<br />
start with a knot at the upper left<br />
hand deadeye hole. Consequently, port<br />
side deadeyes have the knot aft and forward<br />
on the starboard side. Keep an eye<br />
on the masts as you rig shrouds, so you<br />
will not pull them out of line.<br />
Instead of chain plates, the topmasts have<br />
futtock shrouds (see figure 64). Notice<br />
that the topgallant shrouds have no deadeyes<br />
at all. The shrouds go through the<br />
crosstrees, around a futtock stave, and all<br />
the way down to the lower top. There,<br />
they are seized into some thimbles attached<br />
to the lower deadeyes.<br />
After the shrouds are in place, add the<br />
ratlines (see figure 65 for several optional<br />
methods). Make sure you beeswax the<br />
ratlines well before they are installed. The<br />
wax will help hold the ratlines into a<br />
slight downward curve. If the ratlines<br />
tend to bow upward, tug them gently<br />
into position. You may need to add a little<br />
super glue on the line to "freeze" them.<br />
Ratlines are difficult to do if you tie the<br />
clove hitches. Try to hold a group of<br />
shrouds between your fingers so that as<br />
you tie the knots, you will not alter the<br />
spacing between shrouds.<br />
SQUARE SAIL<br />
FIG. 62 -Chain Plates<br />
FIG. 63 - Spacing The Deadeyes With A Wire Jig<br />
FIG. 64 - Topmast Futtock Shrouds<br />
Hook<br />
1<br />
Pull<br />
tight<br />
Futtock<br />
shroud<br />
(rope)<br />
2<br />
Seize<br />
Crimp around<br />
deadeye<br />
Bend, then solder or<br />
touch with glue<br />
Correct shapes<br />
Model option: Omit hook<br />
(Real<br />
ship)<br />
Twisted<br />
wire jig to<br />
hold deadeyes<br />
at correct<br />
spacing<br />
Wire<br />
(Model<br />
option)<br />
Futtock<br />
shroud<br />
Fill with<br />
solder or glue<br />
Start here<br />
with knot<br />
Wrap<br />
around<br />
stave, seize<br />
to shroud<br />
STAYSAIL<br />
Twist<br />
Model option<br />
Tie around<br />
shroud &<br />
seize<br />
Lanyard<br />
LOOKING<br />
OUTBOARD<br />
Wood<br />
stave to<br />
lower<br />
shrouds<br />
37