Rattlesnake Instr. Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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FIG. 59 - Making The Sails Sail cloth Weave same as seam line direction Pencil lines–sew seams Pencil lines–sew to represent reef bands Mark with pencil "A" "B" "C" (cut) (final shape) Iron before sewing. Easier to sew Sew seams first, then cut at "A" "B" "A" "C" Tuck corners & sew by hand TABLING Sew 9. Rigging the Model Without Sails Even though you may have chosen not to include sails, you ought to include most all of the lines attached to the sails, such as clew lines and sheets, buntlines and leech lines, reef lines, and fore and aft sail halliards and downhauls. These lines are not removed when sails are removed, but simply shackled together or tied off or secured to some other stowage point. The sketches herein and on the plans show some of details. When rigging a model without sails, most modelers do not install bunt and leech lines, or reef tackle and their blocks, and most all of the sheets for fore and aft sails are omitted. The choice is yours. But, the more lines you install, the more fun it will be, and in the end, the more realistic. Try to visualize what lines are best removed with the sail and which ones are easily left in place after being unhooked or untied from the sail. FIG. 60 - Edge Boltropes & Reef Points Sail boltrope Form cringle Reef band Sew by hand Punch hole BOLTROPES (cross section) Sew by hand Sew thru the line, not around it REEF POINTS (cross section) Sew down Hole as cringle if no boltrope used Reef points Touch ends with glue so they will not unravel 36
STAGE H STANDING RIGGING Keep your lines handy, sorted by sizes, and have them all nicely beeswaxed before you start. For seizings, you can use cotton, silk, or nylon sewing thread. This should also be beeswaxed. Keep your white glue and super glue handy for dabbing to seizing if necessary, to hold them in place. FIG. 61 - Furled Sails Full size material possible using "silkspan" but check bulk first Full sail If same material Cut to about this size for furling 1. Shrouds Begin the standing rigging with the lower shrouds. The lower deadeyes have steel rod chain plates. These are made of brass wire provided in the kit (see figure 62). If you can't work with all this fine wire, substitute a simple wire strop as shown in the sketch. The rigging plan shows the proper sequence for installing the shrouds. To set up the shrouds, make a temporary jig of brass wire to space the deadeyes as you do the seizing (see figure 63). Make the wire jig slightly longer than the final spacing of deadeyes. When you reeve the lanyards, they will stretch and tighten the shrouds to the proper final spacing. You may need to make a test shroud first to see how much it stretches. This figure also shows the sequence for reeving the lanyards. When looking outboard at any deadeye, you should always start with a knot at the upper left hand deadeye hole. Consequently, port side deadeyes have the knot aft and forward on the starboard side. Keep an eye on the masts as you rig shrouds, so you will not pull them out of line. Instead of chain plates, the topmasts have futtock shrouds (see figure 64). Notice that the topgallant shrouds have no deadeyes at all. The shrouds go through the crosstrees, around a futtock stave, and all the way down to the lower top. There, they are seized into some thimbles attached to the lower deadeyes. After the shrouds are in place, add the ratlines (see figure 65 for several optional methods). Make sure you beeswax the ratlines well before they are installed. The wax will help hold the ratlines into a slight downward curve. If the ratlines tend to bow upward, tug them gently into position. You may need to add a little super glue on the line to "freeze" them. Ratlines are difficult to do if you tie the clove hitches. Try to hold a group of shrouds between your fingers so that as you tie the knots, you will not alter the spacing between shrouds. SQUARE SAIL FIG. 62 -Chain Plates FIG. 63 - Spacing The Deadeyes With A Wire Jig FIG. 64 - Topmast Futtock Shrouds Hook 1 Pull tight Futtock shroud (rope) 2 Seize Crimp around deadeye Bend, then solder or touch with glue Correct shapes Model option: Omit hook (Real ship) Twisted wire jig to hold deadeyes at correct spacing Wire (Model option) Futtock shroud Fill with solder or glue Start here with knot Wrap around stave, seize to shroud STAYSAIL Twist Model option Tie around shroud & seize Lanyard LOOKING OUTBOARD Wood stave to lower shrouds 37
Page 1 and 2: INSTRUCTION MANUAL Rattlesnake MASS
Page 3 and 4: Brief History It was supposedly in
Page 5 and 6: BEFORE YOU BEGIN WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Page 7 and 8: PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It ma
Page 9 and 10: FIG. 2 - Installing The Keel, Stem
Page 11 and 12: FIG. 9 - Carving The Counter Block
Page 13 and 14: 11. Installing the Main, Forecastle
Page 15 and 16: FIG. 19 - Staggering The Planking B
Page 17 and 18: FIG. 21 - Belt Battens Look for smo
Page 19 and 20: STAGE C COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL S
Page 21 and 22: 2. Launching Ways The second type o
Page 23 and 24: FIG. 34 - Catheads & Anchor Details
Page 25 and 26: FIG. 40 - Cannons Breech line Eyebo
Page 27 and 28: STAGE F MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION At
Page 29 and 30: The boom rest for the mizzen mast i
Page 31 and 32: FIG. 53 - Boom & Gaff Jaws Parral b
Page 33 and 34: The diameter of lanyards for deadey
Page 35: The cloth must be pre-shrunk, so wa
Page 39 and 40: FIG. 67 - Detail At The Main Mast T
Page 41 and 42: FIG. 71 - Yard Rigs-No Sail Reef li
Page 43 and 44: Oddly, the course does not have a r
Page 45: BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. The History of Amer

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