Rattlesnake Instr. Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

FIG. 36 - Kevels & Chesstrees
FIG. 37 - Galley Chimney
Cleat end
Line
Line belays
Drill hole to represent
sheave
Galley
chimney
KEVEL
Pin or dowel
to hull
CHESSTREE
Chesstree is
basically a fairlead
for line
Round
Fit into
deck
Square
Thick pad
on deck
8. Elm Pumps
The pumps are supplied as Britannia fittings
(see figure 35). Drill holes in the
deck and insert the pump fitting. The
pump body is a hollowed-out log. The
plans show a metal bracket and pump
handle. However, on some early ships,
the pump handle was a simple wood
handle, an option shown in the sketch.
9. Kevels & Chesstrees
Use wood strips to make the kevels and
chesstrees (see figure 36). Although
these are rigging items, it is best to make
and install them now. You need not put
actual sheaves in the pieces. Simply drill
a hole for the rigging line as shown in
the sketch. The pins are a good idea because
the parts may come off if not fastened
securely.
10. Galley Chimney
The chimney, or call it a galley stack, is
supplied as a Britannia fitting. It has
what apparently is a thick pad around
the chimney as it passes through the
deck. Since this is not defined in the
Campbell plans, it is suggested you add
a 1/32"-thick piece on top of the deck
(see figure 37).
Just forward of the chimney there is a
steam grating. This allows the vapors
from the galley stove to vent. Use a typical
laser-cut grating in this coaming.
11. Channels
The channels can be made from wood
strip and installed now, or wait until you
make the chain plates. Consult Stage H
for chain plates and channel details.
12. Deck Buckets
The buckets and racks are supplied as
Britannia castings, but if you want to
have some fun, make them out of wood
(see figure 38). The racks fit between the
breast rail stanchions on the quarter deck.
There are six buckets in all. The buckets
should have rope handles, but this small
detail could be omitted on the model.
13. Eyebolts & Cleats
The location of all the eyebolts and cleats
for rigging are shown on the hull plan and
the rigging plan. The kit has a sufficient
number of metal cleats and eyebolts. You
could make your own cleats out of wood
but they are rather small. Since there will
be some strain on these items from rigging,
they must be secured firmly. Drill a
small hole through each cleat and insert a
brass wire or pin. Drill a hole in the deck
or wherever required and insert the eyebolt
and cleat pin. Use some super glue on
a toothpick and touch the glue around the
eyebolt and cleat to secure it. Careful, not
too much glue. After it is dry, tug on it to
see that it will not come out. The eyebolts
are simply a wire bent into a loop. If you
want to close the loop, touch with a little
solder or epoxy glue.
14. Rudder & Tiller
The rudder is a laser-cut piece but needs
to be shaped according to the plans. The
pintles and gudgeons should be made
from brass strip, or if you dislike brass
you could use paper strip. After installing
the rudder, make the tiller from
wood strip and insert it in the rudder
stock (see figure 39).
FIG. 38 - Deck Buckets
Breast rail at
forecastle deck
Rack between
breast rail
stanchions
FIG. 39 - Rudder & Tiller
Rudder
Option 1: no pin
6 wooden
buckets
(rope handle)
Tiller
Pintle
& gudgeon
Solder or glue
Option 2: Pin & cut head off ,
or just glue
Brass
strip
Solder or
glue pin
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