Rattlesnake Instr. Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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Next, check the fairness of the hull form and sand in the slight bevels that were not pre-cut. To do this, use a stiff basswood batten about 3/32" thick and lay it across the bulkhead edges and decks in various locations (see figure 8). If not fair, sand the bevels that stick out, or add shim material if there are dips. This is an important check. When you start planking, the planks must lie flat against the bulkheads without incurring any bumps and dips on the surface. A model like <strong>Rattlesnake</strong> has many bulkheads, so it is possible for manufacturing or assembly errors to creep in. FIG. 6 - Aligning The Bulkheads, Using Battens Check alignment visually in all directions Check spacing Check straightness of center keel with straight edge 6. Installing the Transom Framing & Transom Carve the counter block, and glue it to the aft side of Bulkhead M and on top of the center keel. Glue the port and starboard laser-cut outboard transom support pieces and two inboard transom supports on top of the counter block. The forward end of the outboard pieces fit against the Bulkhead M bulwark stanchion extensions. Follow the plans when carving the counter block. The bottom of the block has the counter curve. The forward side matches Bulkhead M . The aft side of the block indicates the slope and curvature of the transom. At the center, there is a cut-out so the rudder stock can pass through (see figure 9). The transom is a laser-cut piece. While it was made up of planks over stern frames on the real ship, for the model a solid piece has been provided so no planking is required. Glue the transom to the side and center supports (see figure 10). There are two openings on each side of the transom for windows, and at the center for a fake window. The window frames are laser-cut and can be inserted in the holes. First cover the inside with plastic sheet and paint light blue or black. The center window was a dummy window on the real ship. Paint the panes pale blue. Add the outside frames with 1/32" strip, sanded half-round. Add the lower moldings as shown in the sketch. The stern carving is supplied as a Britannia fitting, but you can carve your own from wood if desired. If you use the fitting, it will need shaping a bit to fit the transom. Cut sloped edges as required. After the planking is done you must add the fashion piece at the transom. This is discussed now to avoid any confusion (see figure 11). Finally, drill some holes in the top edge of the transom to receive the rail stanchions. FIG. 7 - Making Sure Bulkhead & Center Keel Surfaces Are Flush Sand flush with top of bulkheads if necessary FIG. 8 - Check The Fairness Of The Hull Form Needs shim (gap) Needs trimming (bump) Smooth flow into rabbet Good Tack temporary batten on bulkheads Line up with reference line on center keel Bearding line Trim if necessary to line up on the bearding line Good Heavy batten across several bulkheads to check fairness 10
FIG. 9 - Carving The Counter Block At Bulkhead “M” Side transom support–P/S Inboard transom support–P/S Carved counter block BHD “M” BHD = Bulkhead P/S = port/starboard FIG. 10 - Installing The Transom FIG. 11 - Installing The Two Fashion Pieces Side support Inboard support Glue Glue Glue Fashion piece Fashion piece curves in 2 directions, so it must be custom carved Laser-cut transom Bend to curve of counter block (Side view) (Front view) 11
Page 1 and 2: INSTRUCTION MANUAL Rattlesnake MASS
Page 3 and 4: Brief History It was supposedly in
Page 5 and 6: BEFORE YOU BEGIN WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Page 7 and 8: PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It ma
Page 9: FIG. 2 - Installing The Keel, Stem
Page 13 and 14: 11. Installing the Main, Forecastle
Page 15 and 16: FIG. 19 - Staggering The Planking B
Page 17 and 18: FIG. 21 - Belt Battens Look for smo
Page 19 and 20: STAGE C COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL S
Page 21 and 22: 2. Launching Ways The second type o
Page 23 and 24: FIG. 34 - Catheads & Anchor Details
Page 25 and 26: FIG. 40 - Cannons Breech line Eyebo
Page 27 and 28: STAGE F MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION At
Page 29 and 30: The boom rest for the mizzen mast i
Page 31 and 32: FIG. 53 - Boom & Gaff Jaws Parral b
Page 33 and 34: The diameter of lanyards for deadey
Page 35 and 36: The cloth must be pre-shrunk, so wa
Page 37 and 38: STAGE H STANDING RIGGING Keep your
Page 39 and 40: FIG. 67 - Detail At The Main Mast T
Page 41 and 42: FIG. 71 - Yard Rigs-No Sail Reef li
Page 43 and 44: Oddly, the course does not have a r
Page 45: BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. The History of Amer

Rattlesnake Instr. Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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