Rattlesnake Instr. Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

Next, check the fairness of the hull form
and sand in the slight bevels that were
not pre-cut. To do this, use a stiff basswood
batten about 3/32" thick and lay it
across the bulkhead edges and decks in
various locations (see figure 8). If not
fair, sand the bevels that stick out, or
add shim material if there are dips. This
is an important check. When you start
planking, the planks must lie flat against
the bulkheads without incurring any
bumps and dips on the surface. A model
like Rattlesnake has many bulkheads, so
it is possible for manufacturing or assembly
errors to creep in.
FIG. 6 - Aligning The Bulkheads, Using Battens
Check alignment
visually in all directions
Check spacing
Check straightness of
center keel with
straight edge
6. Installing the Transom
Framing & Transom
Carve the counter block, and glue it to
the aft side of Bulkhead M and on top of
the center keel. Glue the port and starboard
laser-cut outboard transom support
pieces and two inboard transom
supports on top of the counter block.
The forward end of the outboard pieces
fit against the Bulkhead M bulwark
stanchion extensions.
Follow the plans when carving the
counter block. The bottom of the block
has the counter curve. The forward side
matches Bulkhead M . The aft side of
the block indicates the slope and curvature
of the transom. At the center, there
is a cut-out so the rudder stock can pass
through (see figure 9).
The transom is a laser-cut piece. While it
was made up of planks over stern frames
on the real ship, for the model a solid
piece has been provided so no planking
is required. Glue the transom to the side
and center supports (see figure 10).
There are two openings on each side of
the transom for windows, and at the
center for a fake window. The window
frames are laser-cut and can be inserted
in the holes. First cover the inside with
plastic sheet and paint light blue or
black. The center window was a dummy
window on the real ship. Paint the panes
pale blue. Add the outside frames with
1/32" strip, sanded half-round. Add the
lower moldings as shown in the sketch.
The stern carving is supplied as a Britannia
fitting, but you can carve your own
from wood if desired. If you use the fitting,
it will need shaping a bit to fit the
transom. Cut sloped edges as required.
After the planking is done you must add
the fashion piece at the transom. This is
discussed now to avoid any confusion
(see figure 11). Finally, drill some holes
in the top edge of the transom to receive
the rail stanchions.
FIG. 7 - Making Sure Bulkhead & Center Keel Surfaces Are Flush
Sand flush with
top of bulkheads
if necessary
FIG. 8 - Check The Fairness Of The Hull Form
Needs shim
(gap)
Needs trimming
(bump)
Smooth
flow into
rabbet
Good
Tack temporary batten
on bulkheads
Line up with reference line
on center keel
Bearding line
Trim if necessary to line
up on the bearding line
Good
Heavy batten across several bulkheads to check fairness
10