International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
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nestbox entrances etc., so that substrates can not be easily dug/pushed out of them. When the<br />
recommended mulch size etc. is offered, mulch will last for many months or longer, before it<br />
breaks down.) When straw, hay, woodwool or leaves are provided within nestboxes, they must<br />
be changed often, usually daily, because they will stay dry for much shorter periods than mulch<br />
or s<strong>and</strong>. Unsoiled woodwool can be dried in the sun <strong>and</strong> reused, but this normally needs to be<br />
done every day or two days, depending on the amount given. Woodwool dries quickly after it is<br />
placed in the full sun for only a few hours <strong>and</strong> can be re-used for as long as e.g. two to seven<br />
days. Caution: before parturition, nestbox bedding materials such as straw, hay, <strong>and</strong> leaves<br />
should be replaced with mulch or s<strong>and</strong>. This is to maintain nestbox dryness without human<br />
intervention. Also, wood wool should be totally removed during cub-rearing for safety to the<br />
cubs. E.g. cubs may get entangled in the woodwool. Mulch <strong>and</strong> soft s<strong>and</strong> are therefore highly<br />
recommended for use within nestboxes, esp. during cub-rearing when the nestboxes need to be<br />
isolated from human disturbances.<br />
Natural underground dens do not have to be serviced or maintained by keepers because with the<br />
appropriate enclosure conditions aforementioned, these dens will keep clean, dry, <strong>and</strong> sanitary.<br />
No bedding materials need to be offered within them because the substrates alone serve the<br />
same purpose. (Wild giant otters do not bring bedding materials into their underground dens<br />
<strong>and</strong> it is not necessary for them to do so for similar reasons.)<br />
Part C. Designs To Help Prevent L<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Floor Substrates from Entering Water Areas<br />
<strong>and</strong> Blocking Pool Drains/Filters <strong>and</strong> Keeper <strong>and</strong> Animal Shift Doors/Gates<br />
Pool drains, filters, skimmers, water filtration/cleaning systems, waterfalls, underwater viewing<br />
areas, swim tanks/tubs, <strong>and</strong> all water areas must be able to accommodate the soft loose<br />
natural substrates that may be tracked, pushed, dug etc. into the water from l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> floor<br />
areas. The simple designs <strong>and</strong> furnishings described below can help prevent substrates from<br />
entering water areas <strong>and</strong> blocking drains or causing other problems. Although, even with<br />
these methods, some substrates will enter the water. Because it is necessary that every<br />
indoor <strong>and</strong> outdoor enclosure l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> floor surface is nearly entirely covered with soft loose<br />
natural substrates as recommended, enclosure water areas etc. should be designed or<br />
modified with these considerations in mind. These methods will also help prevent leaves,<br />
sticks, bark, etc. that have fallen from trees, fish remains, natural furnishings other than<br />
substrates, <strong>and</strong> toys from blocking pool drains or causing other problems.<br />
Raised borders/edges that are positioned somewhat behind the water’s edge (e.g. 10 cm – 15<br />
cm [4” - 6”] behind the water’s edge) can be created to help prevent substrates from being<br />
tracked etc. into the water area while still allowing otters easy <strong>and</strong> safe pool exits <strong>and</strong><br />
entrances. These borders can be easily constructed by lining up or connecting logs that are<br />
small in diameter. The logs must be high enough (i.e. large enough in diameter) to contain<br />
substrates behind them, yet not be too high to create difficult pool exits or entrances. (E.g.<br />
flexible metal brackets, with smooth non-sharp edges, can be screwed into the bottom facing<br />
side of the logs to connect them. The bottom facing side of the logs can also be cut so they lie<br />
flat, but this is usually not necessary. This would be helpful although when the log does not lie<br />
flat enough against the base surface. The more straight the log that can be found for use, the<br />
better.) Large rocks with relatively flat tops <strong>and</strong> bottoms or wood posts/timbers etc. could also<br />
be used in a similar way for the same purpose. During enclosure construction a concrete border /<br />
raised floor surface, e.g. raised approx. 10 cm [4”] from the floor/ground <strong>and</strong> extended 10 cm<br />
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