International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management

nestbox entrances etc., so that substrates can not be easily dug/pushed out of them. When the
recommended mulch size etc. is offered, mulch will last for many months or longer, before it
breaks down.) When straw, hay, woodwool or leaves are provided within nestboxes, they must
be changed often, usually daily, because they will stay dry for much shorter periods than mulch
or sand. Unsoiled woodwool can be dried in the sun and reused, but this normally needs to be
done every day or two days, depending on the amount given. Woodwool dries quickly after it is
placed in the full sun for only a few hours and can be re-used for as long as e.g. two to seven
days. Caution: before parturition, nestbox bedding materials such as straw, hay, and leaves
should be replaced with mulch or sand. This is to maintain nestbox dryness without human
intervention. Also, wood wool should be totally removed during cub-rearing for safety to the
cubs. E.g. cubs may get entangled in the woodwool. Mulch and soft sand are therefore highly
recommended for use within nestboxes, esp. during cub-rearing when the nestboxes need to be
isolated from human disturbances.
Natural underground dens do not have to be serviced or maintained by keepers because with the
appropriate enclosure conditions aforementioned, these dens will keep clean, dry, and sanitary.
No bedding materials need to be offered within them because the substrates alone serve the
same purpose. (Wild giant otters do not bring bedding materials into their underground dens
and it is not necessary for them to do so for similar reasons.)
Part C. Designs To Help Prevent Land and Floor Substrates from Entering Water Areas
and Blocking Pool Drains/Filters and Keeper and Animal Shift Doors/Gates
Pool drains, filters, skimmers, water filtration/cleaning systems, waterfalls, underwater viewing
areas, swim tanks/tubs, and all water areas must be able to accommodate the soft loose
natural substrates that may be tracked, pushed, dug etc. into the water from land and floor
areas. The simple designs and furnishings described below can help prevent substrates from
entering water areas and blocking drains or causing other problems. Although, even with
these methods, some substrates will enter the water. Because it is necessary that every
indoor and outdoor enclosure land and floor surface is nearly entirely covered with soft loose
natural substrates as recommended, enclosure water areas etc. should be designed or
modified with these considerations in mind. These methods will also help prevent leaves,
sticks, bark, etc. that have fallen from trees, fish remains, natural furnishings other than
substrates, and toys from blocking pool drains or causing other problems.
Raised borders/edges that are positioned somewhat behind the water’s edge (e.g. 10 cm – 15
cm [4” - 6”] behind the water’s edge) can be created to help prevent substrates from being
tracked etc. into the water area while still allowing otters easy and safe pool exits and
entrances. These borders can be easily constructed by lining up or connecting logs that are
small in diameter. The logs must be high enough (i.e. large enough in diameter) to contain
substrates behind them, yet not be too high to create difficult pool exits or entrances. (E.g.
flexible metal brackets, with smooth non-sharp edges, can be screwed into the bottom facing
side of the logs to connect them. The bottom facing side of the logs can also be cut so they lie
flat, but this is usually not necessary. This would be helpful although when the log does not lie
flat enough against the base surface. The more straight the log that can be found for use, the
better.) Large rocks with relatively flat tops and bottoms or wood posts/timbers etc. could also
be used in a similar way for the same purpose. During enclosure construction a concrete border /
raised floor surface, e.g. raised approx. 10 cm [4”] from the floor/ground and extended 10 cm
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