International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
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Cleaning Procedures for Substrates <strong>and</strong> Maintaining Nestbox Bedding<br />
The aforementioned recommended substrates are easy <strong>and</strong> inexpensive to maintain <strong>and</strong> they<br />
remain sanitary with daily dry spot cleaning (i.e. removing) of feces, urine soaked substrates,<br />
debris, left-over fish/fish pieces, <strong>and</strong> contaminated substrates. Enclosures will remain more<br />
sanitary, drier, <strong>and</strong> cleaner for longer time periods with these furnishings, as opposed to without<br />
them. This is esp. important when enclosure cleaning must be eliminated/minimized to offer<br />
parents privacy from human disturbances during cub-rearing (see Section 10B). This type of<br />
cleaning is also beneficial to perform during cub-rearing because it can be accomplished simply,<br />
quietly, <strong>and</strong> quickly. <strong>Giant</strong> otters normally only defecate <strong>and</strong> urinate, which they usually do<br />
simultaneously, in one small place in each separate enclosure <strong>and</strong> that place is used exclusively.<br />
E.g. one small area in the indoor enclosure <strong>and</strong> one small area in the connecting outdoor<br />
enclosure will be used. They do not eliminate in nestboxes or underground dens. Note: any<br />
areas with hard surfaces (e.g. tile, artificial rockwork, concrete etc.) should be cleaned, i.e.<br />
hosed <strong>and</strong> scrubbed etc., daily when they are soiled with feces-urine <strong>and</strong> fish remains. (This<br />
cleaning type also has to be minimized/eliminated during cub-rearing). All hard areas need to<br />
be dried thoroughly after cleaning. To help maintain dryness <strong>and</strong> the otters’ scent nestboxes,<br />
enclosure furniture with hard surfaces, toys etc. should only be cleaned when they are soiled<br />
with grease, feces, or fish etc.<br />
Fish should be fed in amounts that otters can finish so that excess uneaten fish is not left in<br />
enclosures during the day <strong>and</strong> overnight. Uneaten fish can attract rats <strong>and</strong> rats could transmit<br />
leptospirosis to the otters. A couple giant otters have contracted leptospirosis <strong>and</strong> this is<br />
suspected to have occurred because large amounts of uneaten fish were left daily in enclosures<br />
overnight/during the day. When fish remains exist, they should be removed from all water <strong>and</strong><br />
l<strong>and</strong> areas daily. <strong>Otter</strong>s will eat fish in pools or take their fish into the water, as well as eat fish<br />
on l<strong>and</strong>. Caution must be taken, as illness may also occur if otters (esp. cubs) eat spoiled fish<br />
remains or are exposed to harmful bacteria ridden swim water (other than exposure to<br />
leptospirosis, neither of these events have been reported to occur). Also, if a significant amount<br />
of left-over uneaten fish that has been sitting in the enclosure for a while, is regularly consumed,<br />
vitamin deficiencies may occur. Note: it is not uncommon that otters will pick up small pieces<br />
of left over fish within their pools <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong> area <strong>and</strong> eat them; this although has not been<br />
reported to cause problems. It is nearly impossible, even with filtration systems, to remove all<br />
small fish pieces from the water.<br />
Mulch, soft s<strong>and</strong>, or any bedding substrate placed within a nestbox needs to be replaced with a<br />
fresh supply when it becomes very damp or wet. With the following conditions mulch <strong>and</strong><br />
s<strong>and</strong> within nestboxes (<strong>and</strong> dens) will remain dry enough that they do not have to be<br />
changed or added to often (e.g. for many months or longer) <strong>and</strong> natural underground dens<br />
will remain dry. These conditions include providing the recommended enclosure l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />
water area locations <strong>and</strong> designs (esp. l<strong>and</strong> to water ratios) <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> floor substrate types,<br />
qualities, <strong>and</strong> depths, as well as locating nestboxes, dens, <strong>and</strong> hills for natural underground dens<br />
the recommended distance away from the water’s edge. (See above <strong>and</strong> Sections 1 & 5).<br />
Without any or all of the aforementioned provisions nestboxes <strong>and</strong> any bedding substrates, as<br />
well as dens <strong>and</strong> other l<strong>and</strong> areas, can remain very damp/wet. As well, natural underground<br />
dens may not stay dry enough. [Several health problems can occur in these conditions. E.g. cub<br />
sickness <strong>and</strong>/or death can occur when cubs are reared in very damp/wet nestboxes (or l<strong>and</strong>/floor<br />
areas).] Mulch <strong>and</strong> soft s<strong>and</strong> should also be at least 10 cm to 20 cm (4" to 8") in depth within<br />
nestboxes (dens etc.). Shallower depths can become/remain wet or very damp. Mulch <strong>and</strong> s<strong>and</strong><br />
should be added to, when nestbox (den etc.) substrate depths become insufficient or mulch<br />
breaks into small pieces <strong>and</strong> packs down. (Nestboxes should be designed, i.e. with lips on<br />
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