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International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management

International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management

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they must have sufficient area where they can hide or stay out of the other’s view when they feel<br />

it is necessary. <strong>Otter</strong>s should not be introduced with physical full-contact within a den area<br />

alone, as this area is too small <strong>and</strong> confined for a full-contact introduction to take place.]<br />

Animal shift doors that are constructed of solid materials, but that can be replaced/interchanged<br />

with a shift door made of lattice/fence with the recommended mesh size necessary for<br />

introductions, can be a helpful addition during visual introductions, although larger introduction<br />

fences are needed as well.<br />

Introduction fences/gates <strong>and</strong> shift doors, with strong but small fence/lattice mesh size to<br />

prevent fence-fight injuries (even 2 cm x 2 cm [1"x 1"] resulted in injuries), should be used for<br />

visual introductions. It seems 2 cm x 2 cm [1" x 1"] mesh has produced the best <strong>and</strong> safest<br />

results, while still offering a strong structure. The otters should be able to closely see, hear<br />

<strong>and</strong> smell each other, but not be able to put their feet, mouth etc. through the mesh. In some<br />

cases, even when otters have only been able to put their toes through the fence, toe <strong>and</strong> foot pad<br />

<strong>and</strong> webbing injuries have resulted from being bitten. Caution: otters are very strong <strong>and</strong> could<br />

push through loose fencing that is not sunken in the ground deep enough or climb over fencing<br />

that is not high enough. (See containment barriers in Section 8). If fence/lattice with the<br />

inappropriate size mesh is already in place, fence with the recommended size mesh above, can<br />

be used to cover it over, simply by securely attaching the new fence to the existing fence/lattice.<br />

<strong>Otter</strong>s should be introduced with physical full-contact introductions in areas that have<br />

ample open space <strong>and</strong> at least two exit/entrance areas to prevent entrapment. These areas<br />

should be where staff has full control over the situation, especially to separate the otters<br />

when necessary <strong>and</strong>/or in emergencies. Tunnels, nestboxes, <strong>and</strong> small dens (unless they<br />

have two open exits) should be closed during full-contact introductions to prevent<br />

entrapment. An otter must have sufficient l<strong>and</strong> area <strong>and</strong> appropriate furnishings that allow it to<br />

successfully adjust to the other otter <strong>and</strong> the new situation, <strong>and</strong> stay out of the other’s view<br />

<strong>and</strong> rest alone when necessary. (See above under appropriately designed <strong>and</strong> furnished<br />

enclosures.) Dens alone should not be used for physical full-contact introductions; see<br />

above. It has been noted that giant otters, esp. the females, will try to force <strong>and</strong> hold the<br />

other otter, usually the male, underwater for an extended period of time, i.e. so that the<br />

otter being pushed under the water comes to the surface gasping for air. Also females seem to<br />

like to initiate fights in the water <strong>and</strong> they have nearly drowned the otters, i.e. males, they were<br />

being introduced to. Offering shallow water in pools that have gently sloping sides or low<br />

sides so that the otters don’t hurt themselves if they fall or jump in or small swim tanks with<br />

shallow water have been helpful to prevent otters from fighting or holding each other<br />

under the water for too long. This also allows caretakers more control as otters are esp.<br />

difficult to separate when they are in pools, esp. large pools.<br />

<strong>Otter</strong>s that are to be introduced, must be familiar/familiarized <strong>and</strong> comfortable with the<br />

enclosures they are introduced in, ideally before visual introduction, <strong>and</strong> most definitely<br />

before full-contact introductions. For example, otters housed on opposing sides of a divided<br />

enclosure should be shifted so that they are exposed to both enclosure sides. The animals<br />

should be given as long as they need to adjust to their new territory, e.g. this could take from<br />

one to two weeks long. Their behaviors should be monitored to determine when they have<br />

adjusted. Most often, this period of familiarization will have to coincide with their visual<br />

introduction period.<br />

Experienced staff, most familiar with the otters, must be available to monitor both the<br />

visual <strong>and</strong> full-contact introductions <strong>and</strong> control all situations during the physical full-<br />

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