International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
they must have sufficient area where they can hide or stay out of the other’s view when they feel<br />
it is necessary. <strong>Otter</strong>s should not be introduced with physical full-contact within a den area<br />
alone, as this area is too small <strong>and</strong> confined for a full-contact introduction to take place.]<br />
Animal shift doors that are constructed of solid materials, but that can be replaced/interchanged<br />
with a shift door made of lattice/fence with the recommended mesh size necessary for<br />
introductions, can be a helpful addition during visual introductions, although larger introduction<br />
fences are needed as well.<br />
Introduction fences/gates <strong>and</strong> shift doors, with strong but small fence/lattice mesh size to<br />
prevent fence-fight injuries (even 2 cm x 2 cm [1"x 1"] resulted in injuries), should be used for<br />
visual introductions. It seems 2 cm x 2 cm [1" x 1"] mesh has produced the best <strong>and</strong> safest<br />
results, while still offering a strong structure. The otters should be able to closely see, hear<br />
<strong>and</strong> smell each other, but not be able to put their feet, mouth etc. through the mesh. In some<br />
cases, even when otters have only been able to put their toes through the fence, toe <strong>and</strong> foot pad<br />
<strong>and</strong> webbing injuries have resulted from being bitten. Caution: otters are very strong <strong>and</strong> could<br />
push through loose fencing that is not sunken in the ground deep enough or climb over fencing<br />
that is not high enough. (See containment barriers in Section 8). If fence/lattice with the<br />
inappropriate size mesh is already in place, fence with the recommended size mesh above, can<br />
be used to cover it over, simply by securely attaching the new fence to the existing fence/lattice.<br />
<strong>Otter</strong>s should be introduced with physical full-contact introductions in areas that have<br />
ample open space <strong>and</strong> at least two exit/entrance areas to prevent entrapment. These areas<br />
should be where staff has full control over the situation, especially to separate the otters<br />
when necessary <strong>and</strong>/or in emergencies. Tunnels, nestboxes, <strong>and</strong> small dens (unless they<br />
have two open exits) should be closed during full-contact introductions to prevent<br />
entrapment. An otter must have sufficient l<strong>and</strong> area <strong>and</strong> appropriate furnishings that allow it to<br />
successfully adjust to the other otter <strong>and</strong> the new situation, <strong>and</strong> stay out of the other’s view<br />
<strong>and</strong> rest alone when necessary. (See above under appropriately designed <strong>and</strong> furnished<br />
enclosures.) Dens alone should not be used for physical full-contact introductions; see<br />
above. It has been noted that giant otters, esp. the females, will try to force <strong>and</strong> hold the<br />
other otter, usually the male, underwater for an extended period of time, i.e. so that the<br />
otter being pushed under the water comes to the surface gasping for air. Also females seem to<br />
like to initiate fights in the water <strong>and</strong> they have nearly drowned the otters, i.e. males, they were<br />
being introduced to. Offering shallow water in pools that have gently sloping sides or low<br />
sides so that the otters don’t hurt themselves if they fall or jump in or small swim tanks with<br />
shallow water have been helpful to prevent otters from fighting or holding each other<br />
under the water for too long. This also allows caretakers more control as otters are esp.<br />
difficult to separate when they are in pools, esp. large pools.<br />
<strong>Otter</strong>s that are to be introduced, must be familiar/familiarized <strong>and</strong> comfortable with the<br />
enclosures they are introduced in, ideally before visual introduction, <strong>and</strong> most definitely<br />
before full-contact introductions. For example, otters housed on opposing sides of a divided<br />
enclosure should be shifted so that they are exposed to both enclosure sides. The animals<br />
should be given as long as they need to adjust to their new territory, e.g. this could take from<br />
one to two weeks long. Their behaviors should be monitored to determine when they have<br />
adjusted. Most often, this period of familiarization will have to coincide with their visual<br />
introduction period.<br />
Experienced staff, most familiar with the otters, must be available to monitor both the<br />
visual <strong>and</strong> full-contact introductions <strong>and</strong> control all situations during the physical full-<br />
190