International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
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parturition, or individuals are not under stress or unusual circumstances, the predictability of<br />
the environment should also be reduced. The location of some enclosure furnishings can be<br />
changed daily to stimulate new interest, reduce predictability, <strong>and</strong> create new walking or<br />
swimming patterns. I.e. light logs, rocks, branches etc. can be moved to new locations within<br />
the pool <strong>and</strong> on l<strong>and</strong>. Exhibits can be refurnished or pre-existing furniture can be relocated on a<br />
larger scale once or twice a year. Methods that significantly change the otter’s environment or<br />
cause disturbances (i.e. changing furniture location, etc.) when parents are rearing cubs, close<br />
to parturition, or otters are under stress or unusual circumstances, must not be used. Toys can<br />
be presented in different manners to offer variety. They can be stacked on or within each other,<br />
hung, hid, scattered, placed in the pool or on l<strong>and</strong> etc.. <strong>Giant</strong> otters enjoy pulling down<br />
overhanging items. E.g. cut bamboo branches (see Section 4 for the necessary bamboo type <strong>and</strong><br />
stalk diameter size that otters need, to use the bamboo successfully) <strong>and</strong> toys hung on long paper<br />
towels are used very frequently. Fish can be h<strong>and</strong> fed, thrown onto the enclosure l<strong>and</strong> area or<br />
into the pool for the otters to chase <strong>and</strong> it can be fed whole or in small pieces or fed live.<br />
Offering live fish is particularly enriching for giant otters (see Section 19 below for more<br />
information on fish types, quality, etc.).<br />
<strong>Husb<strong>and</strong>ry</strong> training, via operant conditioning, is also a stimulating <strong>and</strong> positively<br />
challenging form of behavioral enrichment <strong>and</strong> it is highly recommended for many<br />
reasons. See Chapter 3.<br />
Section 16<br />
Water Source <strong>and</strong> Treatment<br />
It is necessary to offer clean swim <strong>and</strong> drinking water (free of spoiled fish <strong>and</strong> harmful bacteria<br />
etc.). Note: giant otters only defecate <strong>and</strong> urinate on l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> not in the water. Tap or<br />
natural/spring water (flow-through included), with/without filtration <strong>and</strong> re-circulation, is used<br />
for giant otter swim water. Only one zoo, Philadelphia Zoo, is known to add chemicals<br />
(chlorine) to giant otter pool water. Complete pool water changes with pool cleaning are<br />
usually done at most zoos holding giant otters. (Many zoos do not filtrate their water.) This<br />
type of pool maintenance is usually performed one time per week or less frequently. When s<strong>and</strong><br />
filtration is used, pool water changes <strong>and</strong> cleaning are reported to usually be carried out around<br />
once every 3 months. Although it is important to note that with s<strong>and</strong> filtration <strong>and</strong> when it<br />
becomes very sunny with very warm/hot temperatures for long extended periods, it was reported<br />
that it was necessary to carry out pool water changes <strong>and</strong> cleaning more often. Natural ponds<br />
with flow through water are also provided for giant otters. Specific information on chemical<br />
additives is available by request. Please contact the author <strong>and</strong> compiler of this manual for more<br />
information.<br />
Pool drains, filters, skimmers, water filtration/cleaning systems, waterfalls, underwater<br />
viewing areas, swim tanks/tubs, <strong>and</strong> all water areas must be able to accommodate the soft<br />
loose natural substrates that may be tracked, pushed, dug etc. into the water from l<strong>and</strong><br />
<strong>and</strong> floor areas. The simple designs <strong>and</strong> furnishings described in Section 2C above can<br />
help prevent substrates from entering water areas <strong>and</strong> blocking drains or causing other<br />
problems. Although, even with these methods, some substrates will enter the water. Because<br />
it is necessary that every indoor <strong>and</strong> outdoor enclosure l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> floor surface is nearly entirely<br />
covered with soft loose natural substrates as recommended, enclosure water areas etc. should<br />
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