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International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management

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high). It has an openable top, entrance shift door, <strong>and</strong> floor drainage holes. The entrance hole is<br />

located on the box sidewall measuring 122 cm (4 ft) long. A plywood wall (tunnel wall), at the<br />

entrance hole’s inner side, extends from the nestbox’s ceiling to floor <strong>and</strong> continues part way<br />

(48 cm [19"]) to the box’s back wall. Ample room is left so adult otters can easily walk around<br />

the corner created.<br />

Detachable tunnels/tunnel sections that access/connect to the nestbox or carry away<br />

nestboxes, designed to securely lock an otter within, are optimal for easier, safer, <strong>and</strong> less<br />

stressful otter relocations. When these are used as transport crates, they should only be<br />

used when the otter is transported over a short distance e.g. within the same zoo to<br />

another enclosure. These should not be used for longer transports. Even during short<br />

moves, tunnels or nestboxes that are made of solid materials (i.e. wood) <strong>and</strong> that are used for a<br />

temporary transport crate, must allow adequate ventilation during the move. For example,<br />

the shift doors on tunnels <strong>and</strong> nestboxes should be made of strong metal lattice to allow<br />

ventilation. A temporary transport crate can also be created from a removable section of tunnel<br />

that accesses two separate enclosures etc. For example, a 40 cm wide x 40 cm high (16" wide x<br />

16" high) metal lattice tunnel that accesses two areas can be sectioned with a guillotine metal<br />

sliding shift door at each end, to create a 130 cm (4.27 ft) long area. This section should be<br />

designed so it can be easily detached from the entire tunnel to form a temporary transport crate.<br />

The shift door frame should be elevated, e.g. 10 cm (4”), above the tunnel floor to help prevent<br />

that substrates block the shift door track. The tunnel floor should be covered with mulch or<br />

s<strong>and</strong> for daily use (see Section 2 above for substrate qualities, depths etc.). If the floor of the<br />

tunnel is made with metal materials (e.g. metal lattice, solid metal) this is esp. crucial during<br />

the winter if the animals have wet paws when they are traveling through the tunnel. (Wooden<br />

boards can be placed/fixed along the outside bottom edge of the tunnel to help prevent<br />

substrates from being pushed out of the tunnel.)<br />

It is highly recommended to place an infrared video camera with a microphone in each<br />

dark nestbox (<strong>and</strong> den <strong>and</strong> enclosure area as well). In this way cub development, health, <strong>and</strong><br />

behavior <strong>and</strong> parental care can be monitored without human disturbance to the otters. See<br />

Section 10B. Video cameras (with microphones) should be placed on the top of each<br />

nestbox with a protective covering surrounding the video cameras <strong>and</strong> wires leading to it.<br />

(<strong>Giant</strong> otters often like to climb onto the top of their nestboxes <strong>and</strong> temporarily lie there.) E.g. a<br />

wooden box housing can be placed around the camera <strong>and</strong> video wires can be run through<br />

metal/plastic PVC tubes/pipes. Waterproof camera housing protection is also very helpful. The<br />

camera lens can be placed through a hole made into the nestbox top. The outside edge of a<br />

camera lens within the nestbox can be surrounded by a piece of fence that extends below the<br />

bottom of the camera lens to prevent that otters will dig into or play with the lens (e.g. footprints<br />

could obstruct the view etc.).<br />

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