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International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management

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door) could instead be made in the nestbox for servicing etc. This would be useful to help keep<br />

cubs <strong>and</strong> bedding substrates in the nestbox if the nestbox door must be opened. Nestboxes <strong>and</strong><br />

dens containing nestboxes should not be entered or approached during cub-rearing except<br />

for when it is necessary to ensure the survival of the otters, i.e. for emergency or medical<br />

care or for vaccinations (see Section 10 above). Transparent viewing areas should not be<br />

created within nestboxes as they could detract from the feeling of safety <strong>and</strong> privacy.<br />

Nestboxes should remain dark or if necessary infra-red lighting could be used when video<br />

cameras (see below) do not have infrared capabilities.<br />

Shift doors should not be attached to nestboxes, although a removable shift door can be made to<br />

attach to the nestbox when the nestbox will be used for transporting animals for short distances<br />

(see below). E.g. otters should be locked in dens or separable enclosure areas, <strong>and</strong> not<br />

nestboxes, when enclosures are serviced etc.. A nestbox is too small <strong>and</strong> confined <strong>and</strong> in very<br />

warm temperatures, too hot, for otters to be locked in them on a daily or regular basis. Also, if<br />

parents have cubs, they should not be locked in their nestboxes together as the parents could<br />

harm their cubs in their attempts to get out or when they are under stress. See the paragraph<br />

below for tunnels that can be fitted with shift doors <strong>and</strong> attached to nestboxes.<br />

It is optimal when long narrow tunnels, made of wood/plywood, are connected to the<br />

nestbox entrance holes as they help increase privacy, keep nestboxes free of draft, help reduce<br />

tracked in water, <strong>and</strong> keep cubs from crawling out (Duplaix-Hall 1975). The tunnel should be<br />

detachable so the nestbox can be moved/carried around more easily <strong>and</strong> the nestbox can be<br />

turned into a temporary transport crate if needed. The tunnel should be at least 40 cm (16")<br />

wide <strong>and</strong> 40 cm to 60 cm (16" to 24") high. The tunnel length should be at least 1 m (3.28 ft)<br />

long <strong>and</strong> it can range to 1.60 m (5.25 ft) long depending on den size. The tunnel entrance-way<br />

should be placed at the tunnel’s side, not the tunnel’s end, at the farthest end from the nestbox<br />

for extra privacy. I.e. the otters will have to turn a corner to get into the tunnel. The tunnel<br />

entrance-way opening can be 40 cm high x 40 cm wide (16" high x 16" wide). If the tunnel is<br />

long enough, it also can be made into an L shape for extra privacy. It is optimal when a shift<br />

door can be placed at the tunnel end of at least one nestbox so cubs, esp. older cubs, can be<br />

locked inside if necessary (i.e. for medical care / emergencies). The shift door frame should be<br />

elevated, e.g. 10 cm (4”), above the tunnel floor to help prevent substrates from blocking the<br />

shift door track. The shift door should be made of non-transparent materials so otters can not<br />

see through the door. A non-transparent opening hatch, i.e. a wooden door, with a secondary<br />

fence/lattice covered hatch located behind the opening hatch can be created in the tunnel. These<br />

hatches can be used for viewing the tunnel with safety <strong>and</strong> for accessing the tunnel. This way<br />

cubs can be removed from the tunnel if they are not directly in the nestbox <strong>and</strong> tunnel substrates<br />

etc. can be serviced/monitored more easily. Tunnel floors should be lined with the<br />

recommended mulch or s<strong>and</strong> types, qualities, <strong>and</strong> depths to help keep the nestboxes <strong>and</strong><br />

tunnel dry. Note: during warm weather, dens <strong>and</strong> nestboxes located in outdoor enclosures<br />

could become very warm (esp. in climates that are warm all year around). Caution must be<br />

taken if tunnels are connected to nestboxes as they may increase nestbox temperatures <strong>and</strong><br />

nestboxes may become too warm for the otters. Other situations could also cause nestboxes to<br />

become too warm as well.<br />

If tunnels are not used, a “tunnel-like entrance” could be installed within nestboxes, although a<br />

full tunnel is much more effective <strong>and</strong> the following technique has not yet been reported to be<br />

used during cub-rearing. The following design creates a “tunnel like entrance” within the<br />

nestbox itself. (This nestbox was used as a sleeping box for 2.0 otters at Philadelphia Zoo).<br />

The nestbox measures 99 cm wide x 122 cm long x 76 cm high (3.25 ft wide x 4 ft long x 2.5 ft<br />

179

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