International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
their normal daily terrestrial activities to their full extent because the outdoor temperatures<br />
are too low. It is not necessary to heat outdoor enclosure (swim) water. During colder<br />
temperatures <strong>and</strong> in temperate climates although, sufficient indoor swim areas must be<br />
made available so that they can be used instead of the outdoor water areas. Caution<br />
should be taken when otters are exposed to swim water when the air temperature falls<br />
below 5 o C (41 °F). As a precaution, unheated pools (i.e. those made with man-made materials)<br />
should be emptied at these temperatures. (It is important that otters can not jump or fall into the<br />
deep areas of empty pools. Pools should be designed with these cautions in mind.) Outdoor<br />
water areas can be heated when temperatures fall, although otters must always have access to<br />
heated indoor enclosures, with the recommended conditions, during these times. It is not<br />
necessary to heat swim water when it is located in indoor housing that is heated to the air<br />
temperatures recommended. If pipe water is extremely cold when water areas are being<br />
filled, it can be helpful to add warm water to the pool to temper the cold water.<br />
When air temperatures become extremely cold, around minus 10 o C (14 °F), then the<br />
animals’ response to outdoor temperatures should be closely monitored <strong>and</strong> it may likely be<br />
necessary to limit their access to exposure to these temperatures to short periods of time. In<br />
colder temperatures their outdoor access may likely need to be totally restricted. If an otter has<br />
just been imported from South America or it is a juvenile or sub-adult (i.e. 6 months to 2<br />
years old), it should be gradually introduced/exposed to colder temperatures (both air <strong>and</strong><br />
water), at least during its first fall <strong>and</strong> winter. <strong>Otter</strong>s can then become slowly acclimated to<br />
lower temperatures over the cold months of their first fall <strong>and</strong> winter so that they can be allowed<br />
normal access (i.e. compared to other acclimated otters) to the outdoors throughout the<br />
following years. Young individuals (i.e. less than 6 months old) should be kept out of<br />
colder temperatures <strong>and</strong> parents should be prevented from taking them outside during<br />
such conditions. Additionally, see the recommendations in the opening paragraphs to this<br />
section.<br />
Shelter from the wind, rain, heat, cold, <strong>and</strong> direct sun <strong>and</strong> the recommended l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />
water area designs <strong>and</strong> locations (esp. l<strong>and</strong> to water ratios) <strong>and</strong> substrate types, depths,<br />
<strong>and</strong> qualities (all needed to keep the l<strong>and</strong> area dry enough) must be provided in all climates.<br />
Offering plentiful natural furnishings is especially important during the rain <strong>and</strong> rainy seasons, as<br />
well as when it is very hot, sunny, or windy etc.. When natural underground dens are not<br />
available, nestboxes filled with the bedding substrates recommended, must also be provided.<br />
These will help to offer some protection from rain <strong>and</strong> other adverse climatic elements <strong>and</strong> offer<br />
a small amount of additional/supplementary drying <strong>and</strong> grooming area, as well as, dry resting<br />
area. (The recommended l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> floor substrates are the most important <strong>and</strong> primary areas that<br />
otters need to dry <strong>and</strong> groom themselves.) If nestboxes are not offered then natural underground<br />
dens that are dug into hillsides/banks (with the hill designs <strong>and</strong> substrates recommended) must<br />
be provided <strong>and</strong> they can serve the same purpose. [Note: wild giant otters do not collect<br />
materials to use within their dens, they instead depend on the soft natural ground substrates<br />
within their underground dens to serve as bedding (Duplaix-Hall 1980).] (See Section 2 for the<br />
recommended substrate types, qualities, <strong>and</strong> depths needed for l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> floors as well as bedding<br />
materials for nestboxes. See Section 14 for nestbox construction <strong>and</strong> Sections 10 & 5 <strong>and</strong> above<br />
for locations to provide nestboxes.) When otters are housed solely outdoors hollow logs (large<br />
enough for entrance), logs large enough for the otters to lie on, deciduous trees, bushes, bamboo<br />
st<strong>and</strong>s etc. should be offered in the enclosures to provide additional shelter from the elements.<br />
Logs, esp. those with bark, <strong>and</strong> hollow logs can provide a small amount of additional drying <strong>and</strong><br />
grooming areas as well as dry resting areas, as they are elevated from the ground surface <strong>and</strong> are<br />
somewhat absorbent. Hollow logs also offer an enclosed space. Natural furnishings, e.g. such as<br />
145