International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
International Giant Otter Studbook Husbandry and Management
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Artificial/man-made pools that are not heated can be emptied when air temperatures make the<br />
water too cold for the otters to use. After pools are emptied for cleaning they can take quite a<br />
bit of time to refill. It is important that otters can not jump or fall into the deep areas of<br />
empty pools. If animals can do this they must be kept away from these dangerous areas (i.e.<br />
this usually means locking them out of their main enclosure area). Pools should be designed<br />
with these cautions in mind. I.e. deep areas should gently slope to shallow areas or/<strong>and</strong><br />
they can be placed so that giant otters can not enter the pool from the l<strong>and</strong> at the deep<br />
points. This will also significantly reduce the amount of time that otters will have to be locked<br />
out of their enclosures after the pool is cleaned.<br />
Pools must have plentiful areas of gently sloping (smooth non-abrasive) sides/edges so that<br />
young cubs learning swimming can easily exit the water (Duplaix-Hall 1972). (These<br />
sides/edges should also be made of material <strong>and</strong> constructed in such a way that prevents or<br />
reduces the chance that they become too slippery for the otters.) For example, a cub from any<br />
river otter species can drown when pools only have steep borders. Duplaix (citing Harris 1968)<br />
reports one such occasion (i.e. a L. canadensis cub drowned). This is also necessary to allow<br />
adult otters, esp. old animals, a more natural <strong>and</strong> easier exit <strong>and</strong> parents an easier <strong>and</strong><br />
safer exit when they are carrying their cubs. Ideally, all pool edges that are bordered by<br />
l<strong>and</strong> area should be gently sloping, although if this can not be done, it is advisable to<br />
construct as much of the pool in this way as possible. If shallow areas do not extend<br />
from/connect to deep pool areas to allow for easy exits, a gently sloping pool border could be<br />
created during pool construction in various ways. (For example, an approximately one meter<br />
wide surface area / shallow exit area can be constructed so that it extends, with a gentle slope<br />
upwards, from the top of the vertical pool wall to the l<strong>and</strong>. This sloping 1m pool border can be<br />
made so that the water is 30 cm (12") deep at its deepest point [i.e. where it connects to the<br />
vertical pool wall]. It can gently <strong>and</strong> gradually slope upward until only a few centimeters of<br />
water depth is present at the edge where it connects to the l<strong>and</strong> area. This pool border can be<br />
extended around all the pool areas without shallow exits.) When swim tanks/tubs are offered<br />
they also must provide easy <strong>and</strong> safe exit areas either in the same manner as above or as<br />
follows if no other option is available. At the least, large rocks/boulders, ramps, logs, or<br />
boards around the inside edge must be provided (Duplaix 1972), but they should be constructed<br />
with or made of materials that otters can not easily slip on. (See ramp construction in Section<br />
12 <strong>and</strong> below.)<br />
Pool sides / edges should not be raised much above the water level as this will make exiting<br />
the pool difficult for adults alone as well as adults carrying cubs <strong>and</strong> impossible for cubs.<br />
In the wild, “When possible Pteronura skirted vertical banks, preferring shallow inclines for<br />
entry <strong>and</strong> exits into the water.” (Duplaix 1980).<br />
Pool drains, filters, skimmers, water filtration/cleaning systems, waterfalls, underwater<br />
viewing areas, swim tanks/tubs, <strong>and</strong> all water areas must be able to accommodate the soft<br />
loose natural substrates that may be tracked, pushed, dug etc. into the water from l<strong>and</strong><br />
<strong>and</strong> floor areas. The simple designs <strong>and</strong> furnishings described in Section 2C can help<br />
prevent substrates from entering water areas <strong>and</strong> blocking drains or causing other<br />
problems. Although, even with these methods, some substrates will enter the water. Because<br />
it is necessary that every indoor <strong>and</strong> outdoor enclosure l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> floor surface is nearly entirely<br />
covered with soft loose natural substrates as recommended, enclosure water areas etc. should<br />
be designed or modified with these considerations in mind. (These methods will also help<br />
prevent leaves, sticks, bark, etc. that have fallen from trees, fish remains, natural furnishings<br />
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