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C HINA, RUSSIA<br />
& CENTRAL A SIA<br />
CHINA<br />
HONG KONG<br />
TIBET<br />
TAIWAN<br />
SILK ROUTE<br />
IRAN<br />
UKRAINE<br />
RUSSIA<br />
MONGOLIA<br />
TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER
Dear <strong>Travel</strong>ler<br />
In a region as culturally diverse and<br />
geographically vast as China, Russia and<br />
Central Asia, where experiences range from<br />
strolling around the booming city of<br />
Shanghai right the way through to camping<br />
beneath the stars on the Mongolian steppe,<br />
it can be difficult to know where to start.<br />
Distances are huge and infrastructure can<br />
be poor, making careful planning absolutely<br />
crucial – these are for the most part not places<br />
where you can just turn up. Thankfully,<br />
our knowledgeable specialists, with their<br />
first-hand experience, are able to guide you<br />
through the highlights and potential pitfalls,<br />
and help you plan your perfect trip. Many<br />
of the team have studied, lived and worked<br />
in the region. Their deep cultural<br />
appreciation combined with a genuine<br />
enthusiasm to share their knowledge is<br />
what makes us different.<br />
Whether you are travelling here for the first<br />
time, or returning to explore in more depth,<br />
I hope our passion for this region shines<br />
through on the pages of this brochure,<br />
inspiring you to visit this fascinating and<br />
beautiful part of the world.<br />
Craig Burkinshaw<br />
Managing Director
Introducing <strong>Audley</strong><br />
After developing a real passion for travel in the early 1990s Craig Burkinshaw founded<br />
<strong>Audley</strong>, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. Craig wanted to make it possible for<br />
others to share the same experiences and, from these small beginnings, the company was born.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s<br />
interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity<br />
and a passion for travel. Today <strong>Audley</strong> is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour<br />
operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin<br />
America, Australasia, Antarctica and the Arctic, Canada and Alaska.<br />
Tailor-made journeys<br />
The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip<br />
is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or<br />
luxurious accommodation, have great guides on<br />
hand or explore under your own steam, travel for<br />
one week or five, we can create a trip to match<br />
your tastes and budget. We can also design trips<br />
for a special occasion, where added touches can<br />
change an adventurous journey into a spectacular<br />
honeymoon, anniversary or birthday celebration.<br />
Your trip can be tailored to suit your particular<br />
interests, such as wildlife, photography or diving,<br />
and we have the specialist knowledge to match.<br />
Throughout the brochure you will find suggested<br />
itineraries and some of our favourite places to<br />
stay. These are included purely to offer inspiration<br />
and give you a flavour of what is possible, as each<br />
journey is created individually to give you the<br />
opportunity to experience a destination in<br />
exactly the way you choose.<br />
Specialist knowledge<br />
Our China, Russia and Central Asia specialists<br />
have all travelled extensively throughout the<br />
region and in many cases lived there, so you can<br />
rely on their extensive first-hand knowledge. They<br />
regularly return to see the accommodation, meet<br />
our guides – many of whom are firm friends –<br />
experience all the excursions and activities, and<br />
keep up-to-date with local developments. They<br />
pride themselves on having an honest ‘tell it how<br />
it is’ approach to planning your trip and, as well as<br />
their own extensive knowledge, are able to draw<br />
on the considerable collective experience of their<br />
colleagues. We believe this approach is unique to<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> and the only way we can genuinely offer<br />
you a tailor-made service.<br />
Financial security<br />
All travel arrangements in this brochure that<br />
include a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil<br />
Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817.<br />
Please see our booking conditions for more<br />
information. If your arrangements do not include<br />
any flights they are protected by a separate<br />
financial scheme, for further details please visit<br />
www.audleytravel.com/protect<br />
Planning your trip<br />
Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if<br />
you just want some general guidance, call one<br />
of our China, Russia, and Central Asia specialists<br />
on 01993 838 200. They can offer advice and<br />
discuss your plans with you, before creating a<br />
detailed itinerary, which will be forwarded to you<br />
together with maps, accommodation information,<br />
colour photographs and a price. Your specialist<br />
can then continue to refine the plans until you are<br />
completely satisfied. They will be on hand from<br />
the start of the planning process to your return<br />
and are always available to answer questions<br />
and offer sound advice.<br />
Ceramics on sale, Uzbekistan<br />
Contents<br />
Introduction 2-7<br />
China 8-41<br />
Classic China 10-27<br />
Yunnan 28-37<br />
Hong Kong 38-41<br />
Tibet 42-49<br />
Taiwan 50-51<br />
Silk Route 52-61<br />
Iran 62-67<br />
Ukraine 68-69<br />
Russia 70-81<br />
The Trans-Siberian Railway 80-81<br />
Mongolia 82-86<br />
Useful Information 87
<strong>Audley</strong> in China,<br />
Russia and Central Asia<br />
The countries in our China, Russia and Central Asia brochure are a diverse range of<br />
destinations, encompassing many different peoples and cultures. Perhaps what they<br />
all have in common though is just how ancient they all are. These are cultural giants and<br />
places that, at various points in their history, have ruled over vast swathes of the known<br />
world. Exploring the monuments, temples, monasteries, mosques and palaces that they’ve<br />
left behind as their power waxed and waned is what makes a visit to these parts of the<br />
world so interesting.<br />
A history of empires<br />
Kremlin domes, Moscow<br />
Chairman Mao badge<br />
Persepolis, Iran<br />
‘With Heaven’s aid I have conquered for you a<br />
huge empire. But my life was too short to achieve<br />
the conquest of the world. That task is left for<br />
you’. Genghis Khan to his successor.<br />
The history of these countries is one of empires<br />
rising and falling, jostling for supremacy with one<br />
another. The world’s oldest continuous one, the<br />
Chinese empire, has been about in one form or<br />
another since 221 BC, when the emperor Qin<br />
united various warring tribes and imposed a<br />
unified system of measurements as well as a<br />
standardised language.<br />
Lasting from 550 to 330 BC, the ancient Persian<br />
empire was the largest of its time, spanning<br />
present day Iran, large parts of Central Asia, as<br />
well as northern India, and most of the Middle<br />
East. Known for their tolerance of other cultures<br />
and enlightened statesmanship, the Persians<br />
eventually succumbed to Alexander the Great,<br />
leaving behind the mighty city of Persepolis, as<br />
well as an enormous sense of pride and a<br />
distinctive national identity in modern day Iran.<br />
Roaring out of Mongolia in the 13th century,<br />
Genghis Khan and his warriors ruled over most<br />
of present-day Asia and Eastern Europe, for a<br />
short time, before the vast empire disintegrated<br />
because of infighting. Today there is little evidence<br />
of the Mongols in the countries they conquered –<br />
but large numbers of Genghis Khan’s successors<br />
live a similar nomadic lifestyle to the one he<br />
would have lived.<br />
Picking up some of the pieces from the collapse<br />
of the Mongol empire, the Timurid dynasty<br />
reached its peak in the 15th century. Centred on<br />
Samarkand in present-day Uzbekistan, it was<br />
established by Tamerlane, a controversial ruler<br />
whose legacy is bittersweet. As well as wreaking<br />
great destruction – some estimate that he was<br />
responsible for the deaths of 17 million people –<br />
he also bequeathed some of the world’s most<br />
beautiful monuments and buildings, many of them<br />
in Samarkand.<br />
Several hundred years later, it was the turn of the<br />
Russians who, having subdued the vastness of<br />
Siberia in the 16th century, turned their attention<br />
to Central Asia in the late 18th and 19th<br />
centuries, pushing right up to the Iranian and<br />
Chinese borders. With the coming of communism<br />
the Russian empire was substituted for the Soviet<br />
empire, orthodox churches for Soviet tower<br />
blocks. These days Russian remains the lingua<br />
franca of the Central Asian region, and significant<br />
proportions of the population are ethnically<br />
Russian.<br />
In the 21st century it is once again the turn of the<br />
Chinese to be dominant as the Middle Kingdom<br />
rises, with huge changes in people’s way of life<br />
within the space of a generation. Witnessing a<br />
society in flux, with the tensions between ancient<br />
and modern ways of life is one of the reasons for<br />
visiting. Inevitably there are controversies too –<br />
between the expansionist demands of an empire<br />
and the right to self-determination of indigenous<br />
peoples, and between traditional ideas and<br />
modern technology.<br />
Seeing the historical and cultural remnants of<br />
all these empires dotted throughout the region<br />
is what makes a trip to this part of the world<br />
truly fascinating – with mosques in China and<br />
orthodox churches in Central Asia marking the<br />
high points of each wave of empire across the<br />
region. It remains to be seen where the high<br />
point of the current Chinese ascension will be,<br />
there being no signs of Chinese dominance in<br />
the region receding.<br />
4
Contrasting landscapes<br />
Spanning a quarter of the earth’s surface China,<br />
Russia and Central Asia contain many differing<br />
landscapes. From vast deserts in Mongolia and<br />
the north of China to lush forests in the south of<br />
China; from never-ending grass steppe in Siberia<br />
to awe inspiring mountain peaks in Tibet; from<br />
mighty rivers spanning the whole of China to<br />
ancient rice terraces built countless generations<br />
ago, there really is a landscape for every taste<br />
in these lands.<br />
Diverse cultures and peoples<br />
With a quarter of the world’s population,<br />
there is a huge variety of peoples and cultures.<br />
Hip urbanites in Beijing’s 798 art district,<br />
nomadic herders in Mongolia, devout Ayatollahs<br />
in Iran, wealthy Oligarchs in Russia – there is an<br />
endless variety of peoples, personalities, cultures<br />
and traditions to experience. Seeing the changes<br />
in the faces as you travel from east to west<br />
(or vice versa) is one of the most interesting<br />
facets of the many great journeys you can make<br />
in the region.<br />
Trans-Siberian train, Mongolia<br />
Great Journeys<br />
With such contrasting landscapes and<br />
cultures, there are a number of<br />
inspirational journeys that can be<br />
undertaken. Take the Trans-Siberian<br />
railway for a journey from European<br />
Moscow to Asian Beijing. Retrace the<br />
steps of the ancient Silk Road, crossing<br />
deserts and mountain passes. Take the<br />
highest railway in the world from<br />
Beijing to Lhasa. <strong>Travel</strong> overland from<br />
Lhasa to Kathmandu to experience the<br />
roof of the world. Follow in the<br />
footsteps of ancient tea traders in<br />
Yunnan. There are endless permutations<br />
and possibilities – the only limit is your<br />
imagination (and the number of pages<br />
left in your passport!).<br />
Mongolian nomads<br />
01993 838 200 ● Introduction 5
<strong>Audley</strong> in China,<br />
Russia and Central Asia<br />
Babushka selling cakes, Trans-Siberian Railway<br />
Accommodation<br />
With most of China, Russia and Central Asia<br />
having been staunch communist countries until<br />
relatively recently, there is sadly not much of a<br />
tradition of small, locally owned hotels and<br />
guesthouses. This is changing slowly though, and<br />
there are some genuine gems that we’ve<br />
discovered on our research trips. Some of the<br />
more popular destinations such as Beijing,<br />
Shanghai and St Petersburg have some smaller,<br />
more characterful options. For a truly unique<br />
experience, we can even arrange a stay in a ger<br />
tent in Central Asia or Mongolia. Elsewhere<br />
business orientated hotels tend to dominate.<br />
While these may be a little uninspiring, they are<br />
generally of a good standard.<br />
Responsible travel<br />
We're passionate about travel but also deeply<br />
aware of the responsibility we have to the people<br />
and places we visit. We believe that a visit from<br />
an <strong>Audley</strong> traveller should have a positive impact<br />
on the destination and, wherever possible, bring<br />
real benefits. We always endeavour to use locally<br />
owned hotels, work with local guides and<br />
operators, and promote community and wildlife<br />
projects. Our <strong>Travel</strong>ler's Code offers tips and<br />
advice you can use to ensure your trip does not<br />
threaten the sustainability of the places you visit.<br />
We carbon offset all our staff flights and you can<br />
choose to do the same, please speak to your<br />
specialist about this or follow the link on our<br />
website www.audleytravel.com/offset. Our<br />
commitment to responsible travel has been<br />
audited by AITO (Association of Independent<br />
Tour Operators) and we have been awarded five<br />
stars, the maximum achievable. We also support<br />
a variety of social and environmental charities and<br />
projects around the world.<br />
In the past the team have raised money to<br />
purchase ger tents and support projects that help<br />
orphans and street children in Ulaan Baatar,<br />
Mongolia. We continue to organise fund-raising<br />
events to support similar projects.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong>ling around<br />
Within China, Russia and Central Asia we will<br />
always recommend the most convenient and<br />
appropriate means of transport for the region in<br />
which you are travelling. Given the vast distances<br />
in these parts of the world, this often means<br />
flying. For those with a little more time, rail<br />
journeys can be a great way of enjoying the<br />
scenery of the region, though standards can vary<br />
from country to country and from route to route.<br />
When a road journey is necessary or worthwhile<br />
we use well maintained, air-conditioned vehicles,<br />
you are accompanied by a local driver, and in<br />
most case an English-speaking guide to illuminate<br />
your journey.<br />
St Isaac's Cathedral, Russia<br />
6<br />
Rice terraces, China
Yi minority women, China<br />
Cuisine<br />
The food in China, Russia and Central Asia is as<br />
diverse as the culture. Chinese food is famous<br />
throughout the world, of course. What is not so<br />
well known is how much it varies from region to<br />
region. With most Chinese food in the UK<br />
originating from Hong Kong and the south of<br />
China, it can be very different to what you may<br />
have had at home. Russian and Central Asian<br />
cuisine has a poor reputation but has improved<br />
markedly since the fall of communism, especially<br />
in Moscow and St Petersburg in Russia where<br />
there are many excellent restaurants (both<br />
Russian and European).<br />
Off the beaten track<br />
For those that are looking for something a little<br />
different, the region offers a plethora of<br />
opportunities to really get out there and<br />
experience something truly different. Each country<br />
has its ‘must-see’ sites but beyond these there are<br />
often many interesting places which receive very<br />
few visitors. Whether you’re looking to have<br />
fantastic scenery all to yourself, take an epic<br />
overland journey or experience rural life in the<br />
country you’re visiting, our specialists will be able<br />
to put together a unique trip tailored to your<br />
interests and requirements.<br />
Mosque decoration, Iran<br />
Catching up at the market, Yunnan<br />
Ulughbek Medressa, Uzbekistan<br />
01993 838 200 ● Introduction 7
China<br />
China, the Middle Kingdom; for<br />
centuries the world’s richest and most<br />
advanced civilisation and, at the beginning<br />
of the 21st century, well on its way to<br />
reclaiming that title. This is a land of<br />
myriad landscapes, of ancient wonders and<br />
a billion people of diverse cultures, spread<br />
across an area larger than Europe. Journey<br />
through lands where the ancient past has<br />
been rediscovered, through mountainous<br />
realms and rural landscapes whose sublime<br />
beauty has captivated artists and travellers<br />
for centuries, and visit cities where the<br />
architectural marvels of the past vie for<br />
attention with the 21st century’s grandest<br />
extravagances. Here the frenetic modern<br />
world, despite encroaching further and<br />
further into Chinese life, still manages to<br />
coexist with the timeless rural rhythms of<br />
the emerald rice paddies and ancient sacred<br />
mountains. There are Taoist and Buddhist<br />
temples, classic teahouses, labyrinthine<br />
canals and majestic palaces to explore,<br />
providing harbours of calm in the midst<br />
of a bustling, sometimes crowded country.<br />
China is truly a country of thrilling<br />
contrasts, bursting with energy and magic.<br />
8
Classic China<br />
As you might expect, there are some definite<br />
‘must-sees’ for anyone who hasn’t been to China<br />
before contained in this region. The exciting city<br />
of Beijing, once home to emperors and their<br />
many wives (and concubines) acts as a culturesteeped<br />
introduction to the country and an ideal<br />
base to see the mighty Great Wall. Once the<br />
capital, Xian is now a major visitor destination<br />
thanks to the extraordinary Terracotta Army,<br />
which was first unearthed by a farmer in the<br />
1970s. Shanghai combines glittering modern<br />
architecture with colonial-era buildings, and gives<br />
an idea of just how fast China is changing.<br />
To the south, the Guilin region provides some of<br />
China’s most spectacular scenery – craggy<br />
limestone karst pinnacles looming above the<br />
meandering Li River. In this part of China life runs<br />
at a slightly slower pace, so a few days in this area<br />
makes a nice contrast to the bustling cities of<br />
Beijing, Xian and Shanghai. Splitting the country in<br />
two, the Yangtze River is arguably the source of<br />
China’s greatness. Its wide and fertile floodplain<br />
allowed the development of settled, productive<br />
agriculture which in turn led to the flowering of<br />
Chinese civilisation. A four day cruise can be a<br />
great way to break a China trip, allowing time to<br />
relax and absorb what you’ve seen so far.<br />
Yunnan Province<br />
Tucked away in the southwest corner of the<br />
country and bordering Tibet, Burma, Vietnam<br />
and Laos, Yunnan province has an extraordinary<br />
diversity of both culture and landscapes. Being at<br />
the crossroads of so many different countries has<br />
led to it becoming a real melting pot of different<br />
tribes and minorities. With Beijing and the Han<br />
heartland so far away, many people have proudly<br />
held onto their own language, traditions and<br />
customs. Timeless villages that haven’t changed<br />
for centuries and stunning mountain scenery<br />
such as the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge are just<br />
some of the reasons to come to this fascinating<br />
and still undeveloped part of China.<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Hong Kong enthrals with its breathtaking skyline<br />
and intriguing cultural fusion of east and west.<br />
As one of Asia’s busiest hubs, it is extremely<br />
well connected to and influenced by, not only<br />
China, but the rest of the world as well.<br />
Western China and the<br />
Silk Route<br />
To the west of Beijing, the Gobi desert gives<br />
way to the mountains and passes of Central Asia.<br />
This part of China is predominantly Muslim, and<br />
the faces look a little different from those in the<br />
rest of the country. From here, merchants and<br />
traders journeyed along the fabled 3000-year old<br />
Silk Route, crossing continents. Many people visit<br />
western China in conjunction with Central Asia,<br />
so we have included this part of China in the Silk<br />
Route section of our brochure on page 52.<br />
Tibet and Taiwan<br />
Most people don’t see Tibet and Taiwan as being<br />
part of China, though the Chinese government<br />
would argue otherwise. We have separate<br />
sections on these very different places, but it’s<br />
worth noting that the thawing of relations<br />
between China and Taiwan means that there are<br />
now regular scheduled flights between the capital<br />
Taipei and many mainland Chinese cities. This<br />
offers the possibility of combining Taiwan as part<br />
of a longer trip to China. Tibet can also be<br />
combined with other places in China and arriving<br />
on the Beijing to Lhasa railway makes for a<br />
spectacular entrance to Tibet. For more<br />
information see the Taiwan and Tibet pages.<br />
China 9
Classic China<br />
Over the course of its 5,000 year history<br />
China has developed one of the<br />
world’s richest and most sophisticated<br />
cultures, creating fabulous monuments to<br />
great Emperors, breathtaking manifestations<br />
of religious devotion and arts and crafts of<br />
all description that remain to this day the<br />
pinnacle of man’s creative achievements.<br />
As empires have waxed and waned China’s<br />
borders have expanded and contracted, but<br />
constant throughout have been the traditional<br />
Chinese heartlands of Beijing and Xian; the<br />
scenic splendour of the Yangtze gorges and<br />
Guilin; and the modern marvels of Shanghai<br />
and Hong Kong. These are the lands where<br />
the great philosophers – Confucius, Laozi<br />
and Zhuangzi – expounded their theories<br />
on life and governance, shaping society<br />
not only in China but across the entire<br />
Southeast Asian region. Many of our<br />
Classic China trips take in these celebrated<br />
destinations, featuring the world-renowned<br />
sights of the Great Wall, the Terracotta<br />
Army and the Forbidden City, with options<br />
to see the giant pandas, take a cruise on the<br />
mighty Yangtze river or relax amongst the<br />
limestone karst scenery of the Guilin region.<br />
10
I<br />
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<strong>Audley</strong> in Classic China<br />
LAOS<br />
MONGOLIA<br />
CHINA<br />
Yangtze<br />
VIETNAM<br />
1 Beijing<br />
Visiting the Forbidden City<br />
gives an idea of the unbridled<br />
power and wealth of<br />
generations of emperors.<br />
2 The Great Wall<br />
For many, the symbol of China<br />
and one of the world’s greatest<br />
feats of construction.<br />
3 The Terracotta Army<br />
Discovered by a farmer in the<br />
1970s, this lifesize army of<br />
warriors, horses, cooks and<br />
more besides was intended to<br />
help the emperor continue his<br />
rule in the afterlife.<br />
8<br />
Terracotta warrior, Xian<br />
5<br />
3<br />
6<br />
I I<br />
I<br />
7<br />
I I<br />
2<br />
I<br />
I<br />
I<br />
Hainan<br />
Island<br />
I<br />
I I<br />
I<br />
I<br />
I I<br />
Yellow River<br />
I IBEIJING<br />
Huang<br />
Shan<br />
4 Shanghai<br />
One of the world’s most<br />
exciting cities, the scale of<br />
Shanghai and the pace of<br />
change make it a must.<br />
5 Yangtze River<br />
A cruise down the Yangtze<br />
makes for a relaxing and<br />
scenically rewarding trip.<br />
Skyline, Shanghai<br />
6 Guilin’s limestone<br />
karst scenery<br />
These craggy pinnacles dot the<br />
landscape in the Guilin area.<br />
There are options to go<br />
boating, cycling or walking in<br />
this scenic and laid back area.<br />
7 Yangshuo’s cormorant<br />
fishermen<br />
Canny fishermen in China’s<br />
south have trained cormorants<br />
birds to catch fish.<br />
9<br />
1<br />
NORTH<br />
KOREA<br />
TAIPEI<br />
TAIWAN<br />
0 500 miles<br />
0 805 kilometres<br />
4<br />
SOUTH<br />
KOREA<br />
Zhong woman, Longji<br />
8 Chengdu’s panda<br />
sanctuary<br />
Seeing pandas in the wild is nigh<br />
on impossible, but at Chengdu’s<br />
panda sanctuary they can be<br />
seen in as close to their natural<br />
habitat as possible.<br />
9 Hong Kong<br />
Cosmopolitan Hong Kong<br />
makes for a great start or<br />
finish to a trip.<br />
China’s culinary delights<br />
China’s food is as varied as<br />
life itself, with countless<br />
regional dishes.<br />
Panda, Chengdu<br />
As China has developed, the Chinese have<br />
become increasingly interested in discovering<br />
the sights of their own country. This means<br />
that in peak season, crowds are unavoidable<br />
at some of the key sites, such as at the<br />
Terracotta Army. We can help you to<br />
escape these though. For instance, at the<br />
Great Wall, we will arrange to take you to a<br />
lesser visited section; in Xian there are some<br />
far less busy burial pits we know of that will<br />
compliment a visit to the Terracotta Army.<br />
Using the services of a private guide and<br />
driver will also give you the flexibility to avoid<br />
large groups of visitors, enabling you to get<br />
the most out of your time in China. The<br />
quality of guides can be patchy in China, so<br />
we use a trusted network of local guides and<br />
private transport arrangements.<br />
Accommodation<br />
We offer a range of places to stay within<br />
this part of China, ranging from simple<br />
guesthouses to luxurious hotels. Almost all<br />
destinations have a good standard of<br />
accommodation and new hotels are opening<br />
all the time. In some places the hotels<br />
available may be functional Western branded<br />
ones, geared more towards the business<br />
market – not especially inspiring but<br />
comfortable and generally well run.<br />
In other places a wider range of<br />
accommodation is available. Beijing in<br />
particular has some attractive traditional style<br />
properties, built around historic courtyards<br />
that have changed little in decades. Shanghai<br />
in contrast has a number of boutique hotels,<br />
as befits China’s city of the future. A number<br />
of luxury properties have also recently<br />
become available, located away from city<br />
centres – these are ideal for those who<br />
want to relax and unwind in comfort at the<br />
end of a trip.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in China, please<br />
see page 26.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our China<br />
specialists 01993 838 220<br />
China 11
Forbidden City, Beijing<br />
Beijing<br />
China’s modern capital, Beijing, is a true<br />
microcosm of a fascinating country with all its<br />
intriguing contradictions and is an excellent place<br />
to begin your exploration of China’s rich history,<br />
scenery and sights. The lofty modernist spread<br />
of Tiananmen Square, with its monolithic<br />
monuments to Communist glory, faces that most<br />
imposing of sights, the Forbidden City, while the<br />
crowds and bustle of the city fade away in the<br />
serene spaces of the Temple of Heaven and the<br />
Summer Palace. The traditional ‘hutongs’ –<br />
narrow busy backstreets which are fast<br />
disappearing – evoke a more traditional side to<br />
Chinese life, while the Olympic Park and the<br />
urbane restaurants and hotels speak of a different<br />
China. Both offer the chance to immerse yourself<br />
in this rich and complex society – and we<br />
suggest spending at least three whole days here<br />
to do so.<br />
Card players, Temple of Heaven<br />
12<br />
In front of the Forbidden City, Beijing<br />
Forbidden City<br />
Home to several dynasties of Chinese Emperors,<br />
the palace known as the Forbidden City is so<br />
named as it was off limits to anyone but the<br />
Emperor, his family and their courtesans. Anyone<br />
who transgressed this rule and entered without<br />
the Emperor’s permission was condemned to<br />
instant execution. These days the Forbidden City<br />
is one of the key sites in the capital, giving visitors<br />
an insight into the power and wealth of the rulers<br />
of the Middle Kingdom. The series of nearly<br />
1,000 buildings is the largest and best preserved<br />
ensemble in China, and a visit here and to the<br />
adjacent Tiananmen Square is a must.<br />
THE HAOYUAN GUESTHOUSE,<br />
BEIJING<br />
Set around two peaceful and pretty courtyards,<br />
The Haoyuan Guesthouse, in the former<br />
residence of a wealthy Beijing banker, offers very<br />
good value. While the hotel is located well apart<br />
from the crowds, Tiananmen Square is just a<br />
15-20 minutes walk away. The 16 rooms are<br />
decorated in the traditional Chinese style, and the<br />
rear courtyard in particular is peaceful and tranquil<br />
– you will certainly feel like you are in China<br />
when staying here.<br />
Haoyuan Guesthouse, Beijing
Summer Palace, Beijing<br />
Temple of Heaven and the<br />
Summer Palace<br />
Built along strict Confucian lines, the Temple of<br />
Heaven, fully restored for the 2008 Beijing<br />
Olympics, served as a vast stage for the<br />
performance of solemn rites to ensure a bountiful<br />
harvest. The exquisitely realised halls and altars<br />
are all loaded with symbolism. The Summer<br />
Palace, a pretty oasis of palaces, temples, lakes<br />
and decorative bridges is where the Emperor and<br />
his family retreated to during the dry and dusty<br />
summer months. Its huge recreational park and<br />
classic gardens, popular with both visitors and<br />
residents, was described by UNESCO as ‘a<br />
masterpiece of Chinese landscape design’.<br />
Constructed over a number of years, at one point<br />
over 100,000 labourers toiled to dig out a huge<br />
artificial lake, which today can be crossed by boat.<br />
AMAN AT SUMMER PALACE,<br />
BEIJING<br />
Located right next to the east gate of the<br />
Emperor’s Summer Palace, Aman at Summer<br />
Palace offers some of Beijing’s most luxurious and<br />
charismatic accommodation. Most of the rooms<br />
and suites are housed in a series of dwellings<br />
which date back over one hundred years. There is<br />
a private entrance to the grounds of the Summer<br />
Palace so guests can enter first thing in the<br />
morning and see local residents practising Tai-Chi.<br />
The Great Wall<br />
Snaking infinitely across China’s landscape,<br />
the Great Wall remains China’s most potent<br />
symbol and one of the world’s most<br />
awe-inspiring sights. Construction began in<br />
the 5th century BC, and continued, along with<br />
constant renovations, until the 16th century.<br />
Built to keep out the warlike tribes to the<br />
north of China, it is estimated that over two<br />
million people died in its construction. Our<br />
favourite place to see the wall is Jinshanling –<br />
one of the quieter and more dramatic<br />
sections. Although further from Beijing, the<br />
location means that it is mercifully free from<br />
the large groups that can crowd other areas.<br />
Here you can walk peacefully along the wall<br />
Aman at Summer Palace, Beijing<br />
Great Wall, Jinshanling<br />
and breathe in the fabulous vistas that unfold<br />
before you. For those who enjoy walking, we<br />
can also organise an excellent day walk along<br />
a portion of the wall. There are even<br />
possibilities for an extended five day trek.<br />
The Long Corridor, Summer Palace<br />
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Xian and the Terracotta Army<br />
Terracotta Army, Xian<br />
Xian<br />
For centuries the city of Xian (or Chang’An)<br />
was the heart of the Chinese Empire and the<br />
seat of its most glorious dynasties. The city and<br />
surrounding countryside is honeycombed with<br />
fascinating archaeological remnants of those<br />
halcyon days, but the biggest draw by far<br />
remains the Terracotta Army of the First<br />
Emperor Qin Shi Huang. There are, however,<br />
many other reasons for spending time here.<br />
As well as numerous ancient pagodas, there is<br />
the Shaanxi History Museum, arguably the best<br />
Muslim Hui family, Xian<br />
in the country, which houses a remarkable<br />
array of artefacts spanning China’s entire<br />
history. Xian also has a significant Islamic<br />
population – a result of its heritage as the<br />
starting point of the ancient Silk Route. For a<br />
taste of this, you can visit the lively Muslim<br />
quarter, home to the country’s oldest mosque<br />
and rich with the aromas of street cooking.<br />
The Terracotta Army<br />
Famous the world over, the Terracotta Army<br />
was discovered in the 1970s by a local farmer<br />
digging for a well. Since then, well over 8,000<br />
figures, as well as countless other artefacts<br />
have been unearthed. Dating back to 200 BC,<br />
the ranked life-size statues, each unique<br />
and many mounted on horseback, make an<br />
awe-inspiring sight in their three excavated<br />
pits. The figures are complemented by<br />
a display of equally stunning bronze<br />
craftsmanship discovered nearby. The man<br />
behind the army was Qin Shi Huang – the<br />
first Emperor to unite China in 221 BC. He<br />
expected to rule in the afterlife as he had on<br />
earth, and so constructed a huge army to assist<br />
him. To understand the historical context of<br />
the warriors, there is a short film shown in a<br />
purpose built theatre, which explains how the<br />
warriors were made, and a little about the<br />
emperor Qin.<br />
Hanyanling Tombs<br />
The Terracotta Army understandably can get<br />
a little crowded. The more recently discovered<br />
Hanyanling tombs don’t yet receive anything<br />
like the same number of visitors. These tombs<br />
are from a later Emperor, the Emperor Jingdi<br />
who ruled from 188 to 141 BC. He was<br />
notable for being a relatively progressive<br />
ruler – lowering taxes, cutting punishments<br />
for criminals and using diplomacy rather than<br />
force in foreign relations. His tombs are<br />
interesting as they contain more day to day<br />
artefacts than the Terracotta Army. There are<br />
still many thousands of figurines, some<br />
exquisitely carved – though none life size,<br />
perhaps reflecting the decline in power and<br />
wealth of this more modest emperor.<br />
Terracotta animals, Hanyanling tombs<br />
14
Chengdu<br />
Red panda, Chengdu<br />
Chengdu<br />
The laid-back city of Chengdu is the capital of<br />
fiery Sichuan Province, isolated from the rest of<br />
the country by an encircling ring of wild peaks.<br />
The food is super-spicy, the locals friendly, and<br />
the temples and teahouses provide some of the<br />
best opportunities for people-watching in the<br />
whole of China. To the west, misty mountains<br />
Giant panda, Chengdu<br />
range for hundreds of miles to the Tibetan<br />
Plateau, and the north, clad in swaying bamboo<br />
forests, is the final stronghold of China’s national<br />
symbol, the reclusive giant panda. Sightings in<br />
the wild are extremely rare, but a visit to the<br />
panda reserve or research centre close to<br />
Chengdu guarantees a close-up encounter with<br />
these magnificent animals – see page 16 for<br />
more information.<br />
Teahouse, Chengdu<br />
Hainan island<br />
Beach, Hainan Island<br />
Seen by the Chinese as their very own Hawaii,<br />
Hainan is on the same latitude as the north of<br />
Vietnam. It therefore benefits from pleasantly<br />
warm temperatures for most of the year, as well<br />
as clear, sunny days. There are clean, sandy<br />
shorelines and a number of good quality hotels<br />
and resorts, many with their own private beaches.<br />
Away from the coast, it's possible to arrange day<br />
treks through tropical woodlands, or to visit a<br />
monkey sanctuary, though most people come to<br />
just relax by the sea. Hainan is easily accessible<br />
from most mainland Chinese cities. It has been<br />
developed at breakneck speed, and lost a little of<br />
its charm in the process, but nevertheless is<br />
perfect for those looking for a few days of<br />
relaxation at the end of a trip to China.<br />
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Family China<br />
There’s something of interest in China for<br />
families of all ages – younger children will love<br />
seeing giant pandas lolling around munching on<br />
bamboo, while older children will enjoy learning<br />
about Chinese cuisine during a cookery lesson.<br />
With an excellent standard of hotels in most of<br />
the major cities, a family holiday to China is<br />
highly recommended and is sure to be<br />
memorable. Here we present a few of our<br />
favourite family activities – but our specialists<br />
have many more ideas up their sleeves.<br />
Young Chinese children, Guilin<br />
Cycling in Yangshuo<br />
The laid back town of Yangshuo has a<br />
spectacular setting amongst the craggy limestone<br />
peaks of the Guilin area. While the town has<br />
grown more popular with visitors over the<br />
years, it is still a small friendly place, and with<br />
the aid of bikes makes the perfect base for<br />
exploring the surrounding countryside. With<br />
its unspoilt villages and quiet roads this will<br />
give a small but fascinating taste of rural life in<br />
China. We can either arrange for you to be<br />
accompanied by a guide, or, alternatively, it is<br />
easy to arrange bike hire locally and just hit the<br />
trails on your own.<br />
Mother panda with her cub, Chengdu<br />
Cormorant fisherman, Yangshuo<br />
Giant pandas<br />
Symbol of China the world over, the giant<br />
panda is a fascinating, beguiling animal. There are<br />
several well funded and well maintained panda<br />
research institutes near the southern city of<br />
Chengdu (see page 15). Here children and<br />
adults can learn about the panda and its habitat,<br />
have their picture taken with panda cubs, or<br />
even volunteer for a day at the institute. For<br />
those with less time who aren’t able to make it<br />
to Chengdu, Beijing Zoo also has a number of<br />
well cared for pandas.<br />
Cyclists, Yangshuo<br />
16
Beijing<br />
Beijing is the first port of call for most visitors<br />
to China. The Forbidden City, Temple of<br />
Heaven and other ‘must-see’ sites are fabulous,<br />
but there are also a number of other places<br />
ideal for those with younger children. We<br />
recommend the Sony ExploraScience centre, a<br />
modern and extremely well designed museum<br />
that offers interactive exploration of science and<br />
technology. Beijing’s aquarium is also one of the<br />
world’s largest, with colourful aquatic life from<br />
China and the whole world. Alternatively simply<br />
take a rickshaw ride in Beijing’s hutong district<br />
(the narrow, ancient streets of the city) for an<br />
authentic local experience.<br />
Kung Fu students, Shaolin<br />
Family China Itinerary<br />
This itinerary combines some of the classic sites of<br />
China in a family friendly way. As with all our<br />
itineraries, we can tailor this to make the ideal trip<br />
for your family.<br />
Beijing<br />
Day 1<br />
Fly overnight to Beijing.<br />
Xian<br />
Day 2<br />
Recover from your flight and in the<br />
afternoon begin exploring the city.<br />
Shanghai<br />
Shark tank, Beijing aquarium<br />
Beach fun and relaxation<br />
China is not somewhere that most people<br />
associate with beaches. China’s island of Hainan,<br />
not far off the coast of Vietnam, has clean, sandy<br />
beaches, and a number of good quality hotels<br />
and resorts. Our hotels of choice all have<br />
private, supervised beaches and are well set-up<br />
for families of all ages. See page 15 for a little<br />
more information about Hainan island.<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Take in Tiananmen Square and the<br />
Forbidden City. In the afternoon, take a<br />
bike ride around the hutongs district.<br />
Leave the city to take a walk along the<br />
Great Wall.<br />
Visit the Sony ExploraScience centre<br />
in the morning, and in the afternoon<br />
see the magnificent Temple of Heaven.<br />
Take in a Kung Fu show in the evening.<br />
Fly on to Xian. In the afternoon take a<br />
cycle ride around Xian’s city walls.<br />
Guilin<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Day 15 Spend the day exploring Hong Kong –<br />
there’s a Disneyland for those so<br />
inclined – before returning to the UK<br />
in the evening.<br />
Day 16<br />
Longi<br />
Yangshuo<br />
Early arrival into the UK.<br />
Cookery lessons<br />
Most children will have tasted Chinese food and<br />
for older children and teenagers, a Chinese<br />
cookery lesson can be a great way to bring<br />
something back from your time in China.<br />
Chinese cooking is extraordinarily varied, with a<br />
range of flavours, ingredients and cooking styles<br />
to suit all tastes and skill levels. Lessons are in<br />
English, and can also involve a hands-on trip to<br />
the local market to choose some ingredients.<br />
Kung Fu<br />
Kung Fu is an ancient skill that has long held a<br />
fascination for teenagers (and adults) the world<br />
over. We can arrange a trip to an electrifying<br />
and incredibly impressive display in either Beijing<br />
or Shanghai. For those who want to delve a<br />
little deeper into this elegant martial art, we can<br />
also arrange Kung Fu lessons with an English<br />
speaking teacher. For the ultimate fan, it’s also<br />
possible to visit Shaolin, home to one of the<br />
most famous Kung Fu temples, where monks<br />
still teach the art of Kung Fu to this day.<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Head out to Xian’s star attraction – the<br />
Terracotta Army. In the afternoon fly<br />
on to Shanghai.<br />
Spend the day exploring Shanghai under<br />
your own steam, perhaps taking a stroll<br />
around the French Concession.<br />
Visit Shanghai’s aquarium in the<br />
morning. In the evening see Shanghai’s<br />
amazing acrobats.<br />
After a last morning in Shanghai fly on<br />
to Guilin.<br />
Take a cruise up the Li River to the<br />
town of Yangshuo. In the afternoon<br />
explore some of the countryside<br />
around Yangshuo by bike.<br />
Learn about Chinese cookery in the<br />
morning, or if you prefer, take a Kung<br />
Fu lesson. Spend the afternoon bamboo<br />
rafting on a tributary of the River Li.<br />
Transfer to the village of Longji.<br />
Spend the morning walking among the<br />
pretty rice terraces. In the afternoon<br />
transfer back to Guilin to fly on to<br />
Hong Kong.<br />
Stay longer<br />
You could easily extend this itinerary to spend more<br />
time in Hong Kong. Alternatively, if you wanted to<br />
see the pandas, add on a few days to visit Chengdu.<br />
For Kung Fu fans, add on two nights to see the<br />
famous Shaolin temple. You could also finish the trip<br />
with a few days on the beach – China’s tropical<br />
Hainan Island is easily accessible, as are the beaches<br />
of Thailand.<br />
Playing at the seaside, Hainan island<br />
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The Bund, Shanghai<br />
Shanghai<br />
Contrasting images fuse to form Shanghai, the<br />
epitome of a self-confident, 21st century China.<br />
The cosmopolitan atmosphere here seems far<br />
removed from many of the country’s other cities.<br />
Surrounded by classic 1930’s colonial architecture,<br />
take a stroll along the waterfront Bund, the<br />
dazzling jewel in East Asia’s pre-war crown, with<br />
views across the river to the towering skyscrapers<br />
of Pudong. This is the new Shanghai, with shards<br />
of glass and steel seemingly growing like grass.<br />
Further back from the river is the French<br />
Concession – with tree lined streets and an<br />
excellent choice of bars and restaurants, this part<br />
of town is more laid back than others. We can<br />
provide suggestions to help you to explore on<br />
your own or organise a guided tour.<br />
Anting Villa, Shanghai<br />
18<br />
ANTING VILLA, SHANGHAI<br />
Situated in the heart of Shanghai’s French<br />
Concession, the Anting Villa offers excellent value<br />
accommodation for your stay in Shanghai.<br />
Housed in a building that blends in well with the<br />
surrounding colonial era architecture, rooms are<br />
well appointed. There is both a Chinese and<br />
Western restaurant – but the best feature of<br />
the hotel is the lush green grounds, which<br />
provide a welcome respite from the hustle and<br />
bustle of Shanghai.<br />
Peninsula, Shanghai<br />
THE PENINSULA, SHANGHAI<br />
With a prime location on the Bund, The Peninsula<br />
is one of Shanghai’s grandest and most luxurious<br />
hotels and a welcome addition to a city with a<br />
surfeit of hotels aimed at the business market.<br />
Housed in an art-deco style building, the rooms<br />
and suites here are amongst the biggest in the<br />
city, some with views over the river to the<br />
glittering buildings of Pudong.<br />
Mansion, French Concession<br />
The French Concession<br />
Shanghai was little more than a fishing<br />
village until Western trade with China<br />
really started to take off in the 19th<br />
century. Following the infamous Opium<br />
Wars, a weakened China allowed a<br />
number of foreign powers, including the<br />
French, to open free-trade concessions.<br />
During the early 20th century, the<br />
concession developed into the premier<br />
residential district of the city, with grand<br />
villas and leafy boulevards. These days<br />
the French are long gone, but the area<br />
retains a laid back feel to it and it is a<br />
charming place to stroll in the evenings.
Temple, near Suzhou<br />
Master of the Nets Garden, Suzhou<br />
Autumn colours, Hangzhou<br />
Tea picker, near Hangzhou<br />
Suzhou<br />
The water town of Tongli, near Suzhou<br />
Hangzhou<br />
Criss-crossed by canals and blooming with<br />
exquisite landscaped gardens, Suzhou is a<br />
delightful destination only an hour by train from<br />
Shanghai. The waterways and tree-lined avenues<br />
lattice an area famed for silk weaving, with<br />
techniques brought to vivid life at its renowned<br />
Silk Museum. In the region there are picturesque<br />
water towns such as Tongli, Zhouzhuang and Zhu<br />
Jia Jiao, where ancient stone bridges cross winding<br />
canals and old merchants’ houses line narrow<br />
cobbled streets. At their best these small towns<br />
offer a rare and fascinating insight into a bygone<br />
China, but can be busy in the high season; we<br />
plan early starts to avoid the crowds.<br />
Amanfayun, Hangzhou<br />
Chinese tourists consider the former capital of<br />
Hangzhou one of the country’s finest destinations,<br />
thanks largely to the picturesque expanse of West<br />
Lake, a scene immortalised over the centuries by<br />
countless Chinese artists. While the gentle rolling<br />
scenery around Hangzhou is less dramatic than<br />
elsewhere, the relaxed atmosphere and greenery<br />
of the city makes a welcome change from many<br />
better known destinations. After the frantic bustle<br />
of Shanghai or Beijing, this is the perfect place<br />
to hire a bike and ride around the lake and into<br />
the nearby hills. You can also visit the local tea<br />
plantations, where the produce is of such high<br />
quality that it is routinely presented to visiting<br />
heads of state, including Queen Elizabeth. This,<br />
combined with the recent addition of some<br />
characterful and very comfortable accommodation<br />
options, make Hangzhou an ideal stop for a few<br />
days towards the end of a trip.<br />
AMANFAYUN, HANGZHOU<br />
Surrounded by tea fields, woodland and small<br />
unspoilt villages, Amanfayun is an ideal place to<br />
relax, unwind and pamper yourself. Designed in<br />
the spirit of a traditional village, each of the 47<br />
rooms is housed in a typical dwelling of the area,<br />
some of which are over a hundred years old.<br />
There is a teahouse, a number of restaurants as<br />
well as a spa on site. The temples, lakes and vistas<br />
of Hangzhou are only a 20 minute drive away.<br />
Huang Shan mountains<br />
Huang Shan<br />
With jagged peaks entwined in cloud, Huang<br />
Shan is China’s foremost sacred mountain. It is<br />
increasingly popular with Chinese visitors, but<br />
if you stay overnight in one of the hotels at the<br />
summit, you may find that you have the peaks<br />
to yourself. Sunrises up here can be truly<br />
magnificent, as the sun slowly comes up to reveal<br />
a series of jagged peaks poking through a sea of<br />
clouds. Huang Shan is a three hour drive from<br />
Hangzhou, and so combines well with this often<br />
overlooked part of China.<br />
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Cruising on the Yangtze<br />
Traditional Sampan under sail in the Three Gorges<br />
Most people’s first trip to China lasts just two or<br />
three weeks – a relatively short amount of time<br />
to try and take in over 4,000 years of history,<br />
56 different minority groups and the third<br />
largest country in the world. A cruise on the<br />
mighty Yangtze River is a great way to have a<br />
break from the temples and museums, and<br />
digest what you’ve seen so far. For those so<br />
inclined, it’s an opportunity to perhaps tackle<br />
one of the many readable histories of China, to<br />
give some context to what you’ve seen. For<br />
others it’s a good chance to relax on the sun<br />
deck and soak up the scenery. Either way, a<br />
Yangtze cruise is a highly recommended option<br />
as part of a first trip to China.<br />
Carving detail, Fengdu<br />
Fisherman, Yangtze river<br />
The route<br />
The majority of boats ply the Yangtze between<br />
the cities of Chongqing and Yichang. The scenery<br />
on the downstream route, from Chongqing to<br />
Yichang, gets better and better, culminating in<br />
the spectacular Three Gorges. The upstream<br />
route takes a little longer, four nights as opposed<br />
to three downstream, and so is better suited to<br />
those with more time. A small number of boats<br />
continue all the way to Shanghai – not<br />
recommended unless you are a diehard cruise<br />
enthusiast, as you’ll have witnessed the best of<br />
the area’s scenery before Yichang.<br />
Chongqing<br />
Gateway to the Yangtze, Chongqing has grown<br />
hugely over the last decade or so. It’s not an<br />
especially attractive city, but for those arriving<br />
from elsewhere with time to spare before<br />
boarding a Yangtze boat in the evening, there<br />
are some beautifully preserved Buddhist<br />
grottoes in the vicinity. You should also leave<br />
time to try the local speciality – Chongqing<br />
hotpot, a spicy dish adored by the locals!<br />
Qutang gorge, Yangtze River<br />
20
Local people, Yangtze river<br />
Fengdu<br />
The ‘ghost city’ of Fengdu takes its name from<br />
two Chinese officials who became bored of<br />
court life, and moved to the area to practice<br />
Taoist teachings. They reputably became so<br />
good at it that they both became immortal –<br />
hence the name ghost city. There are a number<br />
of temples here, and it’s a good place to learn<br />
some of the tenets of Taoism.<br />
The Three Gorges<br />
The scenic highlight of the cruise, the Three<br />
Gorges of Qutang, Wu and Xiling are each<br />
markedly different. Qutang is the first one that<br />
you come to if travelling downstream. At eight<br />
kilometres long it is the shortest, but arguably<br />
the most spectacular. At its narrowest point it is<br />
just 100 metres across, and the huge vertical<br />
sheets of rock are majestically imposing. Wu<br />
(‘witches’) gorge, around 20 kilometres further<br />
downstream, is more verdant, with the jagged<br />
peaks sometimes hidden in a swirling,<br />
atmospheric mist. Xiling, the longest gorge, is<br />
the least spectacular, but used to be the most<br />
dangerous before the river was tamed. You can<br />
still see beacons glowing on the banks at night,<br />
to warn captains away from the shallows.<br />
Yangtze tributaries<br />
All of the Yangtze cruises spend some time<br />
visiting one of the smaller tributaries of the<br />
Yangtze. These have their own gorges, some<br />
of which are as impressive as the Three Gorges<br />
themselves. Smaller boats are used for these<br />
side trips, and most land on shore to explore<br />
some of the local villages on the river banks.<br />
The Three Gorges Dam<br />
The controversial Three Gorges Dam project is<br />
known the world over. Whatever your views on<br />
it, it’s difficult not to be awed by the sheer scale<br />
of the achievement. It’s the world’s longest dam,<br />
at 2,335 metres, as well as the world’s largest<br />
hydroelectric power station by output. The<br />
project is a great source of pride to most<br />
Chinese people. You’ll see the huge dam from<br />
a viewing platform, and continue around the<br />
surprisingly interesting visitors centre.<br />
Yichang<br />
Yichang is where most boats turn around and<br />
head back up the river to Chongqing. There is<br />
little to detain you here, and most people<br />
transfer from their boat to the airport, for an<br />
onward flight.<br />
Guide to the boats<br />
Three Gorges Dam, Yangtze River<br />
We offer a range of boats, from the luxurious<br />
Yangtze Explorer to the great value Victoria<br />
Cruise boats. All boats are of a good<br />
standard, with reasonably sized, en suite<br />
cabins. On shore excursions are in groups,<br />
led by generally excellent local guides. Here<br />
we present a selection of our favourites.<br />
M/S YANGTZE EXPLORER<br />
The smallest and most luxurious Yangtze<br />
boat, the Yangtze Explorer offers the most<br />
intimate experience on the river, with just<br />
124 guests on board. Each of the 62 cabins<br />
are spacious (for a river boat), and all have a<br />
MS Yangtze Explorer, Yangtze River<br />
Victoria Cruises, Yangtze River<br />
balcony. On board facilities include a spa with<br />
six treatment rooms, espresso bar, sauna, bar<br />
and observation deck. Lunch and dinner are<br />
both à la carte.<br />
VICTORIA CRUISES<br />
The American-managed Victoria Cruises have<br />
the largest fleet of boats on the Yangtze,<br />
offering sailings most days of the week. Boats<br />
range in size, carrying from 206 to 378<br />
passengers. All seven boats are very well<br />
managed, with a range of (optional) on board<br />
activities. Facilities include an à la carte<br />
restaurant, a small gym, as well as a bar and<br />
observation deck. Cabins all have balconies,<br />
and all meals are served buffet style.<br />
M/S CENTURY DIAMOND<br />
Newly launched in 2008 and the flagship of<br />
the Century Fleet, the M/S Century Diamond<br />
offers fantastic value for money for sailings<br />
along the Yangtze. The ship boasts some of<br />
the largest standard cabins available amongst<br />
cruise ships of the same class and each of<br />
these has their own private balcony. The boat<br />
carries 264 passengers and offers a range of<br />
facilities including à la carte (available at an<br />
extra daily charge) and buffet restaurants, a<br />
spacious bar area and observation deck.<br />
Yangtze tributary<br />
www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 21
Cormorant fisherman with his birds<br />
Children with buffalo, near Yangshuo<br />
Guilin<br />
Guilin, in the south of China, has a more laid back<br />
feel than the more developed cities of the north.<br />
The sheer limestone peaks rearing from the flat<br />
plain around the city form a strikingly beautiful<br />
landscape that has, since classical times, formed<br />
a key motif of Chinese art and literature. Guilin<br />
itself is a pleasant enough city, but acts more as<br />
a gateway to the surrounding region. Yangshuo<br />
and Longji are easily accessible places to take in<br />
the scenery. Further afield, the region also has<br />
some beautifully unspoilt villages and interesting<br />
minority festivals.<br />
22<br />
SHANGRI-LA, GUILIN<br />
Guilin’s best hotel, the Shangri-La’s rooms are<br />
large and well-apportioned, some with views<br />
over the pituresque Li River. There’s a wide<br />
selection of restaurants and indoor and outdoor<br />
pools to relax in at the end of the day, as well<br />
as spa and jacuzzi facilities.<br />
Yangshuo<br />
A cruise downriver from Guilin to the small<br />
market town of Yangshuo is a popular and<br />
relaxing way to see the jagged limestone peaks.<br />
As you float downstream you’re likely to see<br />
water buffalo, farmers tending their fields, and<br />
fishermen trying to land the day’s catch. The town<br />
itself has become more popular with visitors in<br />
recent years, but remains a relaxed, friendly place<br />
in a stunning location. It’s also a fabulous base<br />
from which to explore the local countryside. This<br />
can be done by bike, car, or in a more limited<br />
way, on foot. The many tributaries of the river<br />
also offer opportunities to take a gentle rafting<br />
ride – a relaxing way to see some of the scenery.<br />
Evenings can be spent watching cormorant<br />
fishermen at work, or dining at one of the many<br />
local restaurants in the town. There is also a<br />
spectacular sound and light show, Yangshuo<br />
Impressions, choreographed by Zhang Yimao,<br />
who went on to direct the opening ceremony of<br />
the 2008 Olympic Games in Beijing.<br />
Karst scenery, Guilin<br />
Yangshuo Riverside Resort<br />
YANGSHUO RIVERSIDE RESORT<br />
Set amongst Yangshuo’s beautiful limestone karst<br />
scenery, the Yangshuo Riverside Resort offers<br />
some of the best quality accommodation in the<br />
area, with a peaceful riverside setting. Many<br />
rooms have views of the river, and all are<br />
spacious and furnished to a high standard.
Farmer ploughing field, near Yangshuo<br />
Longji<br />
Only two hours north of Guilin, the ancient rice<br />
terraces of Longji, the ‘Dragon’s Backbone’, offer<br />
an awe-inspiring location to experience Zhuang<br />
minority culture first-hand. A night amongst the<br />
terraces offers a great opportunity to escape<br />
the bustle of modern China and experience a<br />
traditional rural way of life. Guided walks of all<br />
lengths can also be organised between the many<br />
villages that dot the hillsides. Although the local<br />
villagers are increasingly used to seeing Western<br />
faces, this is still a great way to experience a<br />
different side of China.<br />
Miao men, Lusheng festival<br />
Beyond Longji<br />
Heading beyond Longji, the terrain becomes<br />
more mountainous, and the roads bumpier. This<br />
part of China is amongst the least developed in<br />
the country. Those who are happy with quite<br />
basic accommodation and rough roads are<br />
rewarded with fantastic scenery, a huge variety of<br />
different minority cultures, and unspoilt villages<br />
such as Chengyang. This is a great place to come<br />
to track down local festivals, which occur<br />
throughout the year. An interesting one is the<br />
Lusheng festival, held in early October. The<br />
Lusheng is a reed instrument, which varies from<br />
one to seven metres in length, and the festival<br />
involves performances, dancing, bullfighting<br />
and horseracing.<br />
Lian Lodge, Longji<br />
Zhuang minority, Longji<br />
LIAN LODGE, LONGJI<br />
Perched amongst the rice terraces of Longji, the<br />
Lian Lodge has fantastic views over the famous<br />
Dragon’s Backbone terraces, constructed by the<br />
forefathers of the current villagers. The 16<br />
individually designed rooms offer comfortable<br />
accommodation in an unspoilt setting.<br />
Wind and rain bridge, Chengyang<br />
www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 23
21st Century China<br />
Skyline, Shanghai<br />
Many visitors to China are attracted by the<br />
ancient temples and timeless villages, or visions<br />
of the Great Wall snaking across the vast<br />
landscape. However, as China has developed it<br />
has embraced modernity in a big way. Some of<br />
the world’s most cutting edge art, architecture,<br />
design and engineering can be found in the<br />
Middle Kingdom.<br />
The Maglev<br />
The fastest running commercial train in the<br />
world, Shanghai’s Maglev train speeds between<br />
the city’s Pudong airport and the city centre,<br />
reaching a top speed of 431 kilometres per<br />
hour. The train operates using magnetic<br />
levitation – a series of ultra powerful magnets<br />
which propel it. If you are leaving or arriving in<br />
the city via Pudong airport, we can arrange for<br />
you to take a ride on the Maglev. Each carriage<br />
has a speedometer so you can see when top<br />
speed is achieved!<br />
Maglev high speed train, Shanghai<br />
Young people, Shanghai<br />
88 Xintiandi, Shanghai<br />
88 XINTIANDI, SHANGHAI<br />
On the edge of the French Concession, the<br />
Xintiandi district of Shanghai is the place to be,<br />
where Shanghainese come to see and be seen.<br />
88 Xintiandi is a small contemporary boutique<br />
hotel with just 53 rooms, each with a modern<br />
take on traditional Chinese design. Some rooms<br />
have pleasant views over an adjacent lake and<br />
park. While there is no in-house bar or<br />
restaurant, there is plenty of choice within a<br />
few minute’s walk of the hotel.<br />
THE PULI, SHANGHAI<br />
Billing itself as ‘the world’s first urban resort’<br />
The Puli impresses with its ambition. The hotel<br />
aims to combine the convenience of a city<br />
centre location with the peace and tranquillity of<br />
a luxury out of town resort – the best of both<br />
worlds. There are extensive spa facilities as well<br />
as discreet, impeccable service. Rooms are some<br />
of Shanghai’s largest, extremely well equipped<br />
and thoughtfully designed. These and the public<br />
spaces are all finished with the highest quality of<br />
materials and, in a nod to China’s past, the<br />
reception area’s floor tiles are made by the<br />
same company that made the tiles of the<br />
Forbidden City in Beijing.<br />
The Puli, Shanghai<br />
24
Bird’s Nest Stadium<br />
Artist’s studio, 798 Art District, Beijing<br />
798 Art Zone, Beijing<br />
Not something that most visitors necessarily<br />
associate with China, Beijing has a thriving<br />
modern art movement that is becoming<br />
increasingly significant on the world stage. The<br />
scene’s epicentre is a vast industrial complex<br />
built in the 1950s as a joint venture between<br />
East Germany, Russia and China (798 refers to<br />
factory 798, part of the complex). Following the<br />
removal of state subsidies, most of the factories<br />
in the complex were shut, and in the mid 1990s,<br />
Beijing’s artistic community moved in. Since then,<br />
the area’s popularity has exploded, and the<br />
former industrial zone is now home to hundreds<br />
of galleries, lofts, studios, and designers, as well<br />
as the associated upmarket boutiques and cafes.<br />
In addition to seeing some fantastic art, a visit<br />
to 798 Art Zone will really underline the<br />
complexities and contradictions of modern China.<br />
The Olympic Park<br />
For many in China, the hosting of the Olympic<br />
Games in 2008 signalled the nation's arrival back<br />
on the world stage. The cutting edge designs of<br />
the Olympic Park buildings in Beijing are unlike<br />
any in the world, let alone in China. Chinese<br />
visitors to the capital flock to the Olympic<br />
Village to marvel at these masterpieces of<br />
modern architecture. Whilst decidedly 21st<br />
century in design, some of the buildings<br />
nevertheless still offer a nod to Chinese<br />
traditions and heritage – the stadium’s shape has<br />
been likened to a Bird’s Nest, in homage to that<br />
special delicacy of Chinese cuisine. We can<br />
arrange a trip out to the Olympic Park,<br />
alternatively it’s possible to combine a visit to<br />
the park with the Summer Palace.<br />
National Grand Theatre Opera House, Beijing<br />
Opposite House, Beijing<br />
THE OPPOSITE HOUSE, BEIJING<br />
One of Beijing’s most cutting edge hotels, The<br />
Opposite House is a stylish place for your stay<br />
in the city. With just 98 rooms, the hotel has a<br />
boutique, intimate feel to it, but with three<br />
restaurants, a beautiful cocktail bar, as well as a<br />
pool and spa facilities, guests are spoilt for<br />
choice. The strikingly designed emerald green<br />
building (by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma)<br />
resembles a vast wooden lattice. The glass<br />
construction makes for light, airy rooms, which<br />
are all of a generous size. Located in the<br />
embassy district of the city, there is a great<br />
selection of restaurants, bars and cafes within<br />
a short stroll of the hotel.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 25
Beijing<br />
Xian<br />
Shanghai<br />
Guilin<br />
Longi<br />
Yangshuo<br />
Old men playing cards, Beijing<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our China specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 220<br />
Getting around<br />
Most visitors to China arrive in one city and fly<br />
home from another, with Beijing, Shanghai and<br />
Hong Kong being the major entry and exit points.<br />
We generally structure an itinerary starting in<br />
the north and working south, or vice versa.<br />
Once in China, its vast size generally necessitates<br />
flying between the different regions. China’s<br />
domestic airlines have been transformed in<br />
recent years, and though schedules remain a little<br />
unreliable, the quality of the aircraft, service and<br />
overall experience has improved immeasurably.<br />
Train travel is an option between some<br />
destinations, but given the distances this is<br />
almost always overnight.<br />
Great Wall, Beijing<br />
26<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
China is a huge country with a wide range of<br />
climates. Spring and autumn are the best times<br />
of year to visit, when you are most likely to have<br />
clear blue skies and comfortable temperatures,<br />
though you might see a little rain in the south in<br />
spring. In summer, sites are less busy and prices<br />
are better value – but it can be a little humid,<br />
especially in the south. Air conditioning is<br />
offered in most hotels and vehicles though.<br />
Winter is cold, especially in the more northerly<br />
cities of Beijing and Xian, though Shanghai is<br />
more temperate.<br />
Time difference: GMT+7 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 10 hours<br />
Beach extensions<br />
If you’re looking to finish your trip to China with<br />
some time to relax on a beach, there are a<br />
number of options. China’s tropical island of<br />
Hainan is easily accessible from many Chinese<br />
cities, and can be visited more or less year round.<br />
Alternatively, the beaches of Thailand are easily<br />
reached from Hong Kong.<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />
prices for your trip to China on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Classic China<br />
This two week itinerary takes in some of the<br />
classic sites of China, ideal for the first time visitor.<br />
As well as seeing some of China’s icons such as<br />
the Great Wall and the Terracotta Warriors, you’ll<br />
also take in the beautiful scenery of the Guilin area,<br />
and get a taste of life in rural China in the village of<br />
Longji. You’ll also spend time in Shanghai, very<br />
much the city of China’s future.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />
Relax and recover from your flight, in<br />
the afternoon take in the Forbidden<br />
City and Tiananmen Square.<br />
See the Temple of Heaven and the<br />
Summer Palace.<br />
Leave the city to see one of China’s<br />
iconic sites – the Great Wall.<br />
In the morning take a rickshaw ride<br />
around Beijing’s Hutong districts,<br />
before flying onto Xian.<br />
Day 6 Head out to Xian’s star attraction –<br />
the Terracotta Army.<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Stay longer<br />
Fly to Guilin.<br />
Take a cruise up the River Li to the<br />
pretty town of Yangshuo.<br />
Head to the village of Longji.<br />
After a walk amongst the rice<br />
terraces return to the airport and fly<br />
to Shanghai.<br />
A day in Shanghai.<br />
Continue to explore Shanghai.<br />
Fly back to the UK, arriving later the<br />
same day.<br />
If you have more time, you could spend a few<br />
nights in Hong Kong. Alternatively add on time in<br />
Chengdu to see the Pandas.
Suggested itineraries<br />
Beijing<br />
Beijing<br />
Beijing<br />
Xian<br />
Xian<br />
Chongqing<br />
Yichang<br />
Shanghai<br />
Chengdu<br />
Zhongdian<br />
Lijiang<br />
Kunming<br />
Guilin<br />
Longji<br />
Yangshuo<br />
Xian<br />
Shanghai<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Yangtze Classic<br />
This itinerary combines China’s classic sites of<br />
Beijing, Xian and Shanghai with a journey along the<br />
great Yangtze River. A cruise on the Yangtze is a<br />
great way to break up the journey and<br />
contemplate some of the world class sites that you<br />
will have seen at the start of your trip.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Days 8-9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Stay longer<br />
Fly from London to Beijing.<br />
Relax and recover from your flight,<br />
in the afternoon take in Tiananmen<br />
Square and the Forbidden City.<br />
See the Temple of Heaven. In the<br />
afternoon, visit the Summer Palace.<br />
Leave the city to see one of China’s<br />
iconic sites – the Great Wall.<br />
Take a rickshaw ride around Beijing’s<br />
Hutong districts, then fly to Xian.<br />
Explore the incredible Terracotta<br />
Army, and visit the Shaanxi Museum<br />
in the afternoon.<br />
Fly to Chongqing for your<br />
Yangtze cruise<br />
Float down the Yangtze and take in<br />
the beautiful scenery.<br />
Arrive into Yichang, from where you<br />
fly on to Shanghai.<br />
Explore the metropolis of Shanghai<br />
at your own pace.<br />
A final day at leisure in Shanghai.<br />
Fly back to the UK, arriving later the<br />
same day.<br />
With three more nights, you could also see some<br />
of the beautiful scenery of the Guilin region; for<br />
those that prefer cities you could also finish with<br />
time in Hong Kong.<br />
Magnificent China<br />
This comprehensive, 19 day itinerary takes in many<br />
different and contrasting parts of the Middle<br />
Kingdom, including time in Yunnan province. It is<br />
ideally suited to those with a little more time to<br />
really get under the skin of this vast country.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />
Relax and recover from your flight,<br />
in the afternoon take in Tiananmen<br />
Square and the Forbidden City.<br />
See the Temple of Heaven and in the<br />
afternoon the Summer Palace.<br />
Visit the Great Wall.<br />
Take a rickshaw ride around<br />
Beijing’s Hutong districts before<br />
flying on to Chengdu.<br />
Visit Chengdu’s panda research<br />
station before flying to Xian.<br />
Day 7 Head out to Xian’s star attraction –<br />
the Terracotta Warriors.<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Day 16<br />
Day 17<br />
Day 18<br />
Fly on to Guilin.<br />
Take a cruise up the River Li to the<br />
pretty town of Yangshuo.<br />
Take a tour of the surrounding<br />
countryside by foot, car or bike.<br />
Head to the village of Longji.<br />
After a walk amongst rice terraces,<br />
fly on to Lijiang.<br />
Explore the old town of Lijiang, and<br />
the picturesque Black Dragon Pond.<br />
Visit Jade Dragon Mountain.<br />
Drive to Zhongdian with your guide,<br />
stopping at Tiger Leaping Gorge on<br />
the way.<br />
Visit Songzanlin Monastery.<br />
Fly to Hong Kong, via Kunming.<br />
After a day to explore Hong Kong,<br />
take an evening flight back to the UK.<br />
China City Sling<br />
This itinerary mixes the ancient and the modern in<br />
three of China’s best known cities. Start in Beijing<br />
and take in some of the contrasts here – such as<br />
the ancient Forbidden City and the decidedly 21st<br />
century Bird’s Nest stadium. Move on to Xian to<br />
see the Terracotta Warriors, before finishing up<br />
in Shanghai.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />
Relax and recover from your flight,<br />
in the afternoon take in Tiananmen<br />
Square and the Forbidden City.<br />
In the morning see the Summer<br />
Palace and the Olympic Park. In the<br />
afternoon, visit Beijing’s up and<br />
coming 798 district of modern art.<br />
Leave the city to see one of<br />
China’s iconic sites – the Great Wall.<br />
Take a walk along a section to truly<br />
appreciate it’s magnitude.<br />
Fly to Xian. Visit the Shaanxi Museum<br />
for an overview of China’s history<br />
and in the evening take a walk in<br />
Xian’s vibrant Muslim quarter.<br />
Visit the incredible Terracotta Army,<br />
before flying to Shanghai.<br />
Spend the day exploring China’s<br />
fastest growing city.<br />
Contrast the modern metropolis<br />
of Shanghai with a day trip to the<br />
town of Suzhou, with its pretty<br />
formal gardens.<br />
Take the fastest train in the world,<br />
the Maglev, to the airport for your<br />
return flight, touching down in the<br />
UK later the same day.<br />
Stay longer<br />
There are many ways to extend this taste of China<br />
if you have more time. Spend a few days in Hong<br />
Kong to finish the trip off, or alternatively take in<br />
some of the scenic highlights of the Guilin region.<br />
Day 19<br />
Early arrival into the UK.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 27
Yunnan<br />
Tucked away in the southwest corner<br />
of the country, Yunnan province is a<br />
long way from Beijing, and it shows.<br />
There’s a different atmosphere here, and the<br />
onward march of progress has not quite<br />
permeated this region to the same extent as<br />
elsewhere in China. Neighbouring Tibet,<br />
Laos and Vietnam have exerted more of an<br />
influence than the capital, making for a<br />
rich mix of different minority cultures<br />
whose traditions are still very much alive.<br />
Here it’s not unusual to see people wearing<br />
traditional costume, not for the benefit of<br />
visitors, but just because that’s the way<br />
they’ve always dressed. This variety of<br />
cultures is matched by an extraordinary<br />
climatic and scenic diversity. The south of<br />
the province, near the Vietnamese border<br />
has semi-tropical forest, and year round<br />
warm temperatures. In the north the<br />
altitude rapidly increases towards the<br />
Tibetan plateau, which lies partly in<br />
Yunnan at 3,000 metres. You are<br />
surrounded by enormous craggy mountain<br />
peaks of over 6,000 metres as you near the<br />
border with Tibet – these giants are the<br />
foothills of the Himalayas.<br />
28
<strong>Audley</strong> in Yunnan<br />
4<br />
5<br />
2<br />
3<br />
1<br />
6<br />
7<br />
We have long been fans of Yunnan and<br />
while other operators may cover the<br />
destination, none know it as we do. Some<br />
of the key places to visit in Yunnan have<br />
become more popular over the years,<br />
especially with Chinese visitors. However,<br />
we have travelled to places a little more off<br />
the beaten track, discovering the best routes<br />
to take, and the most comfortable places to<br />
stay. Our pioneering knowledge will ensure<br />
you truly get under the skin of this beguiling<br />
part of China. We also have experience of<br />
combining Yunnan with the neighbouring<br />
countries of Vietnam, Laos and Burma.<br />
Furthermore, with so many different<br />
minorities in the region, having a local guide<br />
to explain the heritage and traditions of<br />
each can really bring a trip to life. Where<br />
possible we offer guides who are members<br />
of the minority group of the area in which<br />
you are staying.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Erhai lake, Dali<br />
1 Dali<br />
Marvel at the pretty white<br />
headdresses of the Bai minority<br />
and take in ancient pagodas.<br />
2 Lijiang<br />
A remarkably well preserved<br />
Naxi minority town, with a<br />
lively old town.<br />
3 Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />
One of the world’s deepest<br />
gorges, can be tackled as a day<br />
trip or as an overnight trek.<br />
Town square, Shaxi<br />
4 Tibetan culture in<br />
Zhongdian<br />
5 Shaxi<br />
Tibetan people form the<br />
majority in this part of Yunnan.<br />
Visit ancient monasteries and<br />
stop for a cup of yak butter tea<br />
6<br />
at a Tibetan family’s house.<br />
Tibetan chorten, Zhongdian<br />
Rice terraces, Yuanyang<br />
Once a stop on tea trading<br />
routes, this village is best visited<br />
on market day.<br />
Lake Lugu<br />
The centre of the Mosu<br />
minority, the last practising<br />
matriarchal society in the world,<br />
this beautiful lake glistens on the<br />
Yunnan – Sichuan border.<br />
7 Yuanyang rice terraces<br />
These centuries old rice<br />
terraces unfold as far as the<br />
eye can see, hewn from the<br />
rolling topography by the local<br />
Hani minority.<br />
This part of China has a number of small,<br />
characterful guesthouses – all clean and<br />
comfortable with en suite facilities, but not<br />
offering the full range of services of a hotel.<br />
At the other end of the scale, there are<br />
some extremely luxurious hotels for those<br />
looking to indulge themselves. In between<br />
these two options there is not so much<br />
choice – but new establishments are opening<br />
all the time, so ask your specialist for the<br />
most up to date information.<br />
Naxi women, Lijiang<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Yunnan, please<br />
see pages 36-37.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our China<br />
specialists 01993 838 220<br />
China 29
Three Pagodas, Dali<br />
Bai lady, Dali<br />
Kunming<br />
Renowned for its delicious noodles and delightful<br />
teahouses, Kunming, the ‘City of Eternal Spring’ is<br />
likely to be your entry and exit point into Yunnan<br />
Province. It’s a pleasant enough city, but if you’re<br />
pushed for time, you might consider just passing<br />
through here. For those who do have the time,<br />
there are some bustling regional markets. Near<br />
Kunming is the stone forest, Shilin, a bizarre<br />
landscape of strange karst geology. This is very<br />
popular with Chinese visitors though and can<br />
be busy at times.<br />
30<br />
Dali<br />
Nestling beside picturesque Erhai lake is the<br />
town of Dali. As capital of the great Bai kingdom,<br />
this was the city that ruled over much of the<br />
surrounding region. Although its significance has<br />
waned, the area has retained a wealth of<br />
traditional Bai architecture set amongst pretty<br />
scenery. The lake is alive with small wooden<br />
fishing boats, and has picturesque shores dotted<br />
with villages and local markets. Nearby, the small<br />
town of Xizhou, on Dali’s fertile plain, is a perfect<br />
example of Bai architecture and culture, its superb<br />
market bright with Bai women beautifully attired<br />
in colourful traditional costume, old men drawing<br />
on long wooden pipes and elderly women selling<br />
traditional medicines. Behind Dali and overlooking<br />
the lake, the beautiful Three Pagodas have been<br />
watching over the town for well over a thousand<br />
years – surviving earthquakes, landslides,<br />
revolutions and modernisation.<br />
Fisherman on Erhai Lake, Dali<br />
Linden Centre rooftop, near Dali<br />
Linden Centre, near Dali<br />
LINDEN CENTRE, NEAR DALI<br />
Located in the small Bai village of Xizhou, The<br />
Linden Centre is a unique place to stay. Away<br />
from the centre of Dali, you can really get a feel<br />
for a different side of China in this small, unspoilt<br />
village. Set in a traditional Bai house around a<br />
number of courtyards, the 14 rooms are<br />
comfortable, with designs inspired by Bai culture.<br />
There is a pleasant rooftop terrace with views<br />
over the surrounding fields – perfect for relaxing<br />
on with a drink at the end of the day.
Old town, Lijiang<br />
Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />
Card players, Lijiang old town<br />
Shaxi<br />
The area around Dali and Lijiang is rich with<br />
villages unchanged for centuries, sleepy market<br />
towns and pretty, rural country scenes. The jewel<br />
in the crown is the village of Shaxi – an important<br />
stopping point on the fabled ‘tea-horse road’. This<br />
was a trade route from the south of Yunnan to<br />
present day Tibet, through central China, Burma,<br />
India and beyond, along which ‘black gold’ (tea)<br />
was transported. The village grew rich during the<br />
14th century Ming dynasty, which is when many<br />
of the village buildings date from. These days<br />
Shaxi is mercifully free of visitors, and Friday's<br />
market sees a plethora of different minorities trek<br />
into town to sell their wares and stock up on<br />
provisions. You can stay in one of a handful of<br />
small, traditional guesthouses, or alternatively visit<br />
as a day trip from Dali or Lijiang.<br />
Lijiang<br />
Nestled beneath the snowy peaks of the Jade<br />
Dragon Mountain, the narrow cobbled streets of<br />
Old Lijiang run with the clear waters of mountain<br />
streams. This region is the stronghold<br />
of the Naxi people, whose culture combines<br />
shamanism with a unique pictographic alphabet.<br />
The remarkably well preserved old town is<br />
popular with Chinese visitors – but by sticking<br />
more to the backstreets and by waking early in<br />
the morning the crowds can be easily avoided.<br />
Buddhist temple, Shaxi<br />
Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />
Tiger Leaping<br />
Gorge trek<br />
One of the natural wonders of the<br />
world, Tiger Leaping Gorge was formed<br />
by the Jinsha River forcing its way<br />
between the towering Jade Dragon and<br />
Haba Mountains. According to tradition a<br />
tiger once leapt across the gorge, which<br />
is only 30 metres wide at its narrowest<br />
point. The gorge can be visited as a great<br />
day trip, though those with the time and<br />
energy for a two-day hike can explore<br />
the region in much greater depth.<br />
Staying overnight in a local guesthouse<br />
in the centre of the gorge itself is an<br />
unforgettable experience.<br />
BANYAN TREE, LIJIANG<br />
With the snow-capped Jade Dragon Mountain as<br />
its backdrop, the Banyan Tree Lijiang offers a<br />
restful, tranquil base for exploring the delights of<br />
Lijiang. We especially recommend the beautiful<br />
private villas inspired by local Naxi architecture,<br />
many with their own plunge pools and private<br />
gardens with views towards the mountains. There<br />
is a well equipped oriental themed spa, as well as<br />
numerous Chinese and Western restaurants.<br />
The centre of Lijiang is easily reached by taxi –<br />
a number are always waiting outside the hotel.<br />
View from Banyan Tree, Lijiang<br />
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The minority peoples of Yunnan<br />
Dai people haggling at Xizhou market, near Dali<br />
Yunnan’s location as the crossroads of Asia<br />
means that it is a melting pot of different<br />
cultures, containing well over half of China’s<br />
minority population. Its sheer size and relative<br />
geographic isolation means that each minority<br />
group has its own distinct language, custom and<br />
culture. The colourful headdresses, local markets<br />
and distinct dishes of each different minority are<br />
a joy to discover and one of the main reasons<br />
for visiting Yunnan.<br />
Bai<br />
The Bai people are long established in the<br />
region and ruled over parts of present day<br />
southwestern China, before eventually<br />
succumbing to the invading Mongol hordes in<br />
the 14th century. Bai means white in the Bai<br />
people’s language, a name they give themselves<br />
because of their reverence of the colour white.<br />
The Bai number around 1.5 million in total,<br />
with most living in or around Dali.<br />
Naxi<br />
The Naxi are descended from Tibetan tribes<br />
who came to settle in the area around 1,400<br />
years ago. They are centred around the town<br />
of Lijiang, but are spread throughout the north<br />
of Yunnan and up towards Tibet. Naxi culture<br />
is dominated by Dongba, shamans who preach<br />
harmony between nature and mankind, and<br />
who act as mediators between the Naxi and the<br />
spirit world. Until relatively recently, the Naxi<br />
lived along matriarchal lines, and the dominance<br />
of women is evident in their language. Nouns<br />
with the word female added implies something<br />
bigger or more important, while nouns with the<br />
word male added implies something smaller or<br />
less important. Thus the Naxi word for ‘stone’<br />
plus female means boulder; ‘stone’ plus male<br />
means pebble.<br />
Tibetan<br />
The Tibetan people are spread far outside<br />
Tibet’s present day borders, into the provinces<br />
of Sichuan, Qinghai and Yunnan. In the north<br />
of Yunnan, around the city of Zhongdian<br />
(or Gyalthang in Tibetan, also known as<br />
Shangri-La) and beyond, Tibetans form the<br />
majority. You will see signs in Tibetan, Chinese,<br />
and English up here, but the language most<br />
widely spoken is Tibetan. There is a devoutness<br />
of belief to be found among the Tibetans that<br />
is rarely found elsewhere in Yunnan, let alone<br />
China. Monasteries and stupas abound,<br />
especially in the countryside, and monks are<br />
to be seen everywhere.<br />
Mosu<br />
One of the last matriarchal societies in the<br />
world, the Mosu are centred around Lugu Lake,<br />
on the border between Sichuan and Yunnan<br />
provinces. Seen by some as a subset of the<br />
Naxi, they nevertheless have their own distinct<br />
culture and customs. Property passes through<br />
the female line, the woman is the head of the<br />
household, and business decisions are generally<br />
made by the woman of the house. Political<br />
power, however, remains with men, so strictly<br />
speaking the Mosu are best described as<br />
matrilineal rather than matriarchal.<br />
Mosu woman, Lake Lugu<br />
32
Tibetan ladies building a house, Zhongdian<br />
Hani girl, Yuangyang<br />
Yi lady, en route to Lake Lugu<br />
Naxi lady, Lijiang<br />
Pumi ladies visiting the market, Shaxi<br />
Yi<br />
The Yi people are one of the largest minority<br />
groups in China, numbering around eight million.<br />
Unlike other minorities they have no distinct<br />
centre, and so are less visible. You are likely to<br />
encounter them on journeys between towns<br />
as they mostly live in rural, mountainous areas,<br />
carving out a living away from population<br />
centres.<br />
Until the 1950s, the Yi were a slave society,<br />
made up of Black Li, who owned most of the<br />
land, White Li who didn’t have freedom of<br />
movement, and around 40% Ajia and Gaxi Li,<br />
who were slaves. Until the region was subdued,<br />
the Yi went on frequent raids into Han territory<br />
to capture slaves. With the coming of<br />
communism, the Yi were forced to give up<br />
their slave society, and these days most Yi are<br />
farmers or nomadic hunters. Only around a<br />
third are literate, and most are extremely<br />
poor. As a result they tend to face prejudice<br />
and discrimination.<br />
Dai, Pumi and Hani<br />
There are 25 different recognised minorities in<br />
Yunnan. Some other notable ones include: the<br />
Dai who are closely related to Thai people,<br />
centred around Xishuangbanna in the south of<br />
Yunnan, and known for their extremely spicy<br />
food; the Pumi who are heavily influenced by<br />
Tibetan culture and centred around Lijiang; and<br />
the Hani. Centred around the far south of<br />
Yunnan, the Hani built the famous rice terraces<br />
of Yuanyang and have a striking blue costume.<br />
Dai grandmother, Xishuangbanna<br />
Naxi men, Lijiang<br />
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Songzanlin Monastery, Zhongdian<br />
Walking near Zhongdian<br />
Walking and trekking<br />
around Zhongdian<br />
High on the Tibetan plateau, studded<br />
with a plethora of peaks over 6,000<br />
metres, the area around Zhongdian has<br />
some great trekking opportunities.<br />
There are a variety of options, from an<br />
easy half day’s stroll through gently<br />
rolling hills dotted with Tibetan villages,<br />
to more rigorous full day treks. For<br />
those of a hardy nature, two or three<br />
day treks staying in local houses or<br />
simple guesthouses take you right up<br />
near the Tibetan border. Whichever you<br />
choose, you are likely to pass through<br />
Tibetan villages at some point, and may<br />
even be invited in to a villager’s house<br />
for a cup of yak butter tea, something<br />
of an acquired taste!<br />
Zhongdian<br />
Nestling at 3,200 metres on the edge of the<br />
Tibetan plateau is one of the most important<br />
Lamaist monasteries outside Tibet. The 300 year<br />
old Songzanlin Monastery, home to around 600<br />
monks, dominates the outskirts of the town of<br />
Zhongdian. Renamed ‘Shangri-la’ after James<br />
Hilton’s mythical mountain paradise, the city is<br />
also known by its Tibetan name of Gyalthang.<br />
The surrounding countryside is dotted with<br />
Tibetan villages and, with the majority of the<br />
population being Tibetan, this really feels like a<br />
different country. It’s certainly as close as you can<br />
get to Tibet (both culturally and geographically)<br />
without the rigours of travelling there.<br />
BANYAN TREE, RINGHA<br />
To the north, in a secluded valley on the<br />
edge of the Tibetan plateau, the Banyan Tree<br />
Ringha has reconstructed original Tibetan<br />
farmhouses to create sumptuous lodges and<br />
suites in one of the most glorious regions of<br />
the country. Around a 20 minute drive from the<br />
city of Zhongdian, the resort is a unique place<br />
from which to explore local Tibetan culture.<br />
For the active, hiking and horse-riding can be<br />
arranged into the spectacular surrounding<br />
mountains; for the not so active there are<br />
luxurious spa facilities.<br />
Dhondrupling Monastery<br />
and the road to Deqin<br />
There are numerous sites of interest which can<br />
be combined into a day trip from Zhongdian.<br />
Dhondrupling Monastery houses around 300<br />
monks and receives few visitors, making it more<br />
peaceful and tranquil than the main Songzanlin<br />
Monastery in Zhongdian. The monks are happy<br />
to receive visitors and show them around. On the<br />
way to the monastery is the village of Nixi, famed<br />
for its production of pottery and well worth a<br />
stop. You’ll be following a tributary of the Yangtze<br />
for much of the journey, with superb scenery and<br />
many opportunities for photo stops. Continuing<br />
on this road brings you to Deqin, the last town<br />
before Tibet. The town itself has little of interest<br />
but is a starting point for those looking to do<br />
some trekking in the area, and has stunning views<br />
of Mt Kawa Karpo – at 6,740 metres one of the<br />
highest mountains in the area.<br />
34<br />
Banyan Tree, Ringha, Zhongdian
Lake Lugu<br />
Yuanyang and the south<br />
of Yunnan<br />
Lige village, Lake Lugu<br />
Lake Lugu<br />
Lake Lugu sparkles like a jewel on the border<br />
between Yunnan province and neighbouring<br />
Sichuan. At 2,685 metres the air is clear and<br />
the views pristine. The lake is home to the<br />
Mosu people, one of the world’s last practising<br />
matriarchal societies. There are numerous villages<br />
dotted around the lake, one or two of which are<br />
starting to attract Chinese visitors. We suggest<br />
staying in one of the quieter villages, where there<br />
are simple guesthouses with en suite facilities.<br />
Once at the lake we can arrange gentle walks<br />
to other Mosu villages in the area, trips to local<br />
markets, boat trips on the lake in a traditional<br />
dugout canoe, or you can just relax and take in<br />
the beautiful views. This area is remote and<br />
unspoilt by development, for now. The journey<br />
winding through the mountains from Lijiang is a<br />
spectacular one, with a good paved road.<br />
In the southeast of Yunnan you pass through<br />
one of China’s most dramatic landscapes. Sculpted<br />
rice terraces cling to the undulating hillsides, their<br />
glittering waters dancing with the brilliant reflected<br />
sunlight. This is the remote area of Yuanyang,<br />
home to the Hani people whose distinctive<br />
triangular thatched homes are clustered in villages<br />
which are fascinating to visit. To the southwest<br />
is the region of Xishuangbanna, with its capital<br />
Jinghong. The name Xishuangbanna derives from<br />
the Thai ‘Sip Sawng Panna’, meaning the ‘12 Rice-<br />
Growing Districts’, demonstrating the cultural and<br />
geographical links between this part of China and<br />
its neighbours. There are countless colourful<br />
temples to visit on the roads between Menghai,<br />
Mengla and Menghun, with plenty of opportunities<br />
to drop in at local markets and minority villages to<br />
gain an insight into the people and the cultures of<br />
this remote and unique part of China.<br />
Local market, Menghun<br />
Rice terraces, Yuanyang<br />
Overland journeys<br />
from Yunnan<br />
For the adventurous, there are numerous<br />
possibilities for overland journeys from or to<br />
Yunnan province. <strong>Travel</strong> to Lake Lugu from<br />
Xichang in Sichuan province, passing remote,<br />
untouched villages. Alternatively, the journey from<br />
Zhongdian to Tibet is for the more hardened<br />
traveller, but you will be rewarded with<br />
spectacular scenery. A more popular overland<br />
journey is to travel south through Yunnan and<br />
cross the border into Vietnam. There are also<br />
options to travel along the historic World War II<br />
supply route, the Burma Road, into Burma, or to<br />
cross into Laos at the border in the<br />
Xishuangbanna region.<br />
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Zhongdian<br />
CHINA<br />
BURMA<br />
Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />
Shaxi<br />
Lijiang<br />
Dali<br />
Kunming<br />
Yunnan Discovered<br />
This 14 day trip takes you to some of the main<br />
highlights of pretty Yunnan province, including Dali,<br />
Lijiang, and the Tibetan town of Zhongdian, as<br />
well as exploring some of the minority villages<br />
in the region.<br />
Two generations of Naxi women, Lijiang<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
When to go<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Fly to Hong Kong overnight.<br />
Arrive into Hong Kong in the<br />
morning and connect with a flight<br />
to Kunming.<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our China specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 220<br />
Getting around<br />
Flights to the region all go through Kunming, the<br />
provincal capital, connecting on to the rest of<br />
China, including Hong Kong. Within Yunnan, we<br />
generally make use of a private car to enjoy the<br />
fantastic scenery. Roads within and between the<br />
main cities are of good quality, well maintained<br />
and smooth. The more remote you get the more<br />
the roads deteriorate, but new roads are being<br />
built all the time, and for most destinations<br />
mentioned here, roads are of a reasonable quality.<br />
Children playing, Kunming<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Yunnan has a diverse climate to match its diverse<br />
geography. Dali, and especially Lijiang, tend to<br />
receive a lot of rain from June to mid-September,<br />
so spring and autumn are the best times of year<br />
to visit. Zhongdian, in the north can be chilly in<br />
the months of April and September, and is<br />
snowbound over the winter months. Visits to the<br />
south are possible at any time of year, though in<br />
the summer months it will be hot and sticky with<br />
rain. The rice terraces of Yuanyang are at their<br />
most spectacular between December and<br />
February, when there is no rice growing.<br />
Time difference: GMT+7 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 10 hours<br />
Beach extensions<br />
If you’re looking to finish your trip to China with<br />
some time to relax on a beach, there are a<br />
number of options. China’s tropical island of<br />
Hainan is easily accessible, with direct flights from<br />
Kunming. Alternatively, the beaches of Thailand<br />
can be reached via Hong Kong.<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />
prices for your trip to China on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to<br />
discuss your plans.<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Drive or fly to Dali, with the rest of<br />
the day to relax.<br />
Explore Dali’s old town, as well as<br />
the Three Pagodas, which overlook<br />
the town.<br />
Take a cruise on Lake Erhai.<br />
Drive out to the village of Shaxi,<br />
passing through pretty rural<br />
countryside on the way.<br />
Spend time in the village, before<br />
driving further north to Lijiang,<br />
stopping off at the holy Buddhist<br />
mountain of Shibaoshan on the way.<br />
Spend the morning exploring Lijiang’s<br />
old town. In the afternoon stroll<br />
around the picturesque Black<br />
Dragon Pond.<br />
Take in the views from the Jade<br />
Dragon Mountain. In the afternoon<br />
stop off in the small village of Baisha<br />
to see some ancient frescos.<br />
Drive on to Zhongdian, stopping at<br />
the spectacular Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />
on the way.<br />
Visit the Songzanlin Monastery<br />
before taking a walk in the hills<br />
outside Zhongdian.<br />
See the pretty monastery of<br />
Dhondrupling; on the way back stop<br />
off in a Tibetan village for a cup of<br />
yak butter tea.<br />
Fly back to Hong Kong via Kunming,<br />
where you connect with your<br />
UK flight.<br />
Early morning arrival in London.<br />
36
Suggested itineraries<br />
Beijing<br />
CHINA<br />
Zhongdian<br />
Lake Lugu<br />
Xian<br />
BURMA<br />
Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />
Zhongdian<br />
Lijiang<br />
Kunming<br />
Guilin<br />
Longji<br />
Yangshuo<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Shaxi<br />
Dali<br />
Lijiang<br />
Lijiang<br />
Dali<br />
Kunming<br />
Guilin<br />
Guiyang<br />
Kaili<br />
Longji<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Kunming<br />
Classic China and Yunnan<br />
This 19 day trip combines some of the classic sites<br />
of China – Beijing, Xian, and the karst scenery<br />
around Guilin, with a taste of Yunnan, for a trip<br />
that will be varied both culturally and scenically.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Day 16<br />
Day 17<br />
Day 18<br />
Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />
Relax and recover from your flight,<br />
and take in Tiananmen Square and<br />
the Forbidden City.<br />
Take a day trip to the Great Wall.<br />
See the Temple of Heaven and in the<br />
afternoon, visit the Summer Palace.<br />
Fly on to Xian. Visit the Shaanxi<br />
Museum and in the evening take a<br />
walk in Xian’s vibrant Muslim quarter.<br />
Visit the Terracotta warriors. In the<br />
afternoon fly to Lijiang via Kunming.<br />
Explore Lijiang’s old town and the<br />
picturesque Black Dragon Pond.<br />
Take in the views from the top of<br />
Jade Dragon Mountain. In the<br />
afternoon stop off in the small village<br />
of Baisha.<br />
Drive on to Zhongdian, via the Tiger<br />
Leaping Gorge on the way.<br />
Visit the Songzanlin Monastery before<br />
taking a walk in the hills.<br />
See the pretty monastery of<br />
Dhondrupling.<br />
Fly to Guilin via Kunming.<br />
Take a cruise up the River Li to the<br />
pretty town of Yangshuo.<br />
Take a tour of the surrounding<br />
countryside by foot, car or bike.<br />
Head to the village of Longji.<br />
After a walk amongst rice terraces, fly<br />
to Hong Kong.<br />
Spend the day exploring Hong Kong<br />
before taking an overnight flight back<br />
to the UK.<br />
Early arrival into the UK.<br />
Yunnan Explorer<br />
This comprehensive trip around China’s Yunnan<br />
province is ideal for those who want to really get<br />
under the skin of this diverse province. Taking in<br />
Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Lake Lugu, and the Tibetan<br />
town of Zhongdian, you’ll see many different<br />
minorities and a variety of beautiful scenery.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Day 16<br />
Day 17<br />
Day 18<br />
Fly to Hong Kong overnight.<br />
Arrive in Hong Kong in the morning<br />
and fly on to Kunming.<br />
Drive or fly to Dali.<br />
Spend today exploring Dali’s old town,<br />
as well as the Three Pagodas, which<br />
overlook the town.<br />
Take a cruise on Erhai lake.<br />
Drive out to the village of Shaxi.<br />
This drive will take you into the<br />
countryside, through villages and<br />
rice paddies.<br />
Spend time in the village, before<br />
driving further north to Lijiang.<br />
Spend the morning exploring Lijiang.<br />
In the afternoon stroll around the<br />
picturesque Black Dragon Pond.<br />
Take in the views from the Jade<br />
Dragon Mountain, and see the well<br />
preserved frescos in the small village<br />
of Baisha.<br />
Drive on to Lake Lugu – a stunningly<br />
picturesque journey.<br />
Have time around Lake Lugu – visit<br />
some minority villages, go walking or<br />
even horseriding.<br />
Return to Lijiang, retracing your steps.<br />
Drive to the village of Daju to start<br />
your Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.<br />
Finish the trek and drive on to<br />
Zhongdian.<br />
Visit the Songzanlin Monastery. In the<br />
afternoon take a short walk in the hills<br />
outside Zhongdian.<br />
Drive out into the mountains to see<br />
the pretty monastery of Dhondrupling.<br />
Fly back to Hong Kong via Kunming,<br />
where you connect back to the UK.<br />
Early morning arrival into London.<br />
Villages of the Southwest<br />
This fascinating trip takes you to the lesser visited<br />
villages of Guangxi and Guizhou, before flying on<br />
to Yunnan province. You’ll see a whole host of<br />
different minorities, and get a real taste of life in<br />
rural China. While accommodation is basic in some<br />
places, you’ll be rewarded by experiencing a side<br />
of China that few visitors get to see.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Stay longer<br />
Fly from London to Hong Kong<br />
overnight.<br />
Fly on to Guilin.<br />
Drive to the pretty village of Longji.<br />
After time to explore the pretty rice<br />
terraces, drive on to Chengyang to<br />
see the famous Wind and Rain<br />
Bridge. Continue on to Zhaoxing.<br />
Spend the morning walking in the<br />
area, with the afternoon at leisure.<br />
Continue to Rongjiang, via a Miao<br />
minority village.<br />
Drive to Kaili, stopping at various<br />
minority villages on the way.<br />
Transfer to Guiyang airport, and fly<br />
to Lijiang.<br />
Spend the day exploring Lijiang<br />
old town.<br />
Leave the town to see the village of<br />
Shigu and the first bend of the<br />
Yangtze River, as well as the Tiger<br />
Leaping Gorge.<br />
Drive from Lijiang to the pretty<br />
village of Shaxi.<br />
See market day in Shaxi, before<br />
driving on to Dali.<br />
Spend the day exploring Dali’s<br />
old town.<br />
Fly to the UK via Kunming and<br />
Hong Kong.<br />
Early arrival into the UK.<br />
You could easily spend a further night in both Dali<br />
and Lijiang. The town of Yangshuo near Guilin is a<br />
relaxing place to spend a few days. You could also<br />
start or end the trip with time in Beijing, Shanghai<br />
or Hong Kong.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 37
Hong Kong<br />
Since the colonial era Hong Kong<br />
has been Asia’s commercial and<br />
cultural hub, making it one of the<br />
world’s most cosmopolitan, spectacular<br />
and thrilling cities. The wonder of<br />
Hong Kong lies in its contrasts, –<br />
it’s a place where true multicultural<br />
modernity mixes seamlessly with<br />
ancient Chinese traditions. Beneath<br />
the towering skyscrapers of the Central<br />
District you’ll find traditional wet<br />
markets where locals come for fresh<br />
vegetables and live, flapping seafood.<br />
Follow a feast of traditional Cantonese<br />
dim-sum with a wander round the<br />
chic shopping districts of Wanchai and<br />
Causeway Bay, packed full of<br />
international brands and designer<br />
labels. Or follow the locals instead<br />
and head to the bustling night markets<br />
of Nathan Road. If you have time,<br />
we’d recommend a trip to the former<br />
Portuguese colony of Macau nearby,<br />
with its relaxed European atmosphere,<br />
for a very different experience.<br />
Skyline at night, Hong Kong<br />
1 Victoria Peak<br />
Take a ride on the Peak Tram<br />
and get a bird’s eye view of the<br />
Hong Kong skyline.<br />
1<br />
3<br />
2<br />
2 Hong Kong harbour<br />
Ride one of Hong Kong’s<br />
famous Star Ferries for views<br />
of one of the world’s most<br />
impressive cityscapes.<br />
3 Symphony of lights<br />
laser show<br />
Every night, the city puts on a<br />
stunning laser show, using the<br />
skyline as a canvas.<br />
Shopping<br />
Whether your tastes are for<br />
chic designer boutiques, valuable<br />
antiques or local markets, Hong<br />
Kong is a shopper’s paradise.<br />
Feast yourself<br />
From top gourmet restaurants<br />
serving food from all around the<br />
world to weird and wonderful<br />
street food, there’s something<br />
for everyone in Hong Kong.<br />
38
Trams, Hong Kong Island<br />
Star Ferry, Hong Kong<br />
48 hours in Hong Kong<br />
We’d suggest a stay of at least 48 hours to<br />
experience Hong Kong, although there is<br />
plenty to see and do over the course of<br />
several days (see the following page for<br />
further suggestions if you have longer). A<br />
great place to start your explorations is to<br />
take in some of the classic views of the<br />
harbour on one of the old Star Ferry cruises,<br />
which date back to the 1800s. Then, do a<br />
spot of shopping at one of the Chinese<br />
markets along Nathan Road, stopping for a<br />
dim sum lunch in one of the many street side<br />
stalls. Later, take the tram up to Victoria Peak<br />
and watch as the sun sets over the skyline<br />
and the glittering lights of the skyscrapers<br />
begin to illuminate the night sky.<br />
Market stallholders, Hong Kong<br />
St John’s Cathedral, Hong Kong Island<br />
Chinese medicine, Hong Kong markets<br />
On your second day try an early morning<br />
Tai Chi class, provided free of charge by the<br />
Hong Kong tourist board. After breakfast<br />
venture a little further afield to Stanley, a<br />
port town on the beach front, with a relaxed<br />
and friendly atmosphere. Return to Kowloon<br />
for afternoon tea in the lobby of the iconic<br />
Peninsula hotel and then end your time in<br />
Hong Kong by watching the daily light show<br />
at the harbour front.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> in Hong Kong<br />
Hong Kong makes a great start or end to a<br />
trip to China or elsewhere in the region.<br />
Having been a British territory for well over<br />
a hundred years, street signs are all in English,<br />
and most taxi drivers and shop assistants<br />
speak at least some English. This, combined<br />
with the outstanding public transport system<br />
means that we rarely arrange scheduled<br />
excursions. Instead we will make suggestions<br />
as to what to do with your time in Hong<br />
Kong, and give you guidance on how to use<br />
Hong Kong’s transportation. We have spent<br />
time finding some of the best markets and<br />
shopping districts, away from the main tourist<br />
drag, which will allow you a glimpse into the<br />
everyday life of Hong Kong’s inhabitants.<br />
To describe Hong Kong as the crossroads of<br />
Asia is something of a cliché, but it’s an apt<br />
description. There are regular, direct flights to<br />
most major (and plenty of minor) cities in<br />
mainland China, Southeast Asia and Japan.<br />
Hong Kong is also a major hub for flights to<br />
Australia and New Zealand. It’s therefore<br />
possible to spend a few days in Hong Kong<br />
as a part of itineraries to any of these places.<br />
For China, Hong Kong makes a great start or<br />
end to a Classic China trip, and is also the<br />
gateway to Yunnan province.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Hong Kong’s accommodation options are<br />
exhaustive, with a range of hotels to suit<br />
every taste and budget. There is very little in<br />
the way of characterful or boutique<br />
accommodation in Hong Kong, however,<br />
there are several iconic and well established<br />
hotels on both Kowloon and Hong Kong<br />
Island, which boast rooms with views over<br />
the harbour. Whether you choose to stay on<br />
the island or Kowloon depends very much<br />
on personal preference, but if you do want a<br />
spectacular harbour view from your room<br />
then we recommend staying in Kowloon.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries including Hong<br />
Kong, please see any of our China itineraries,<br />
on pages 17, 27 and 37.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our China<br />
specialists 01993 838 220<br />
Hong Kong 39
Peak tram, Hong Kong<br />
40<br />
Another day in<br />
Hong Kong<br />
The outlying islands surrounding Hong<br />
Kong offer a tranquil escape from the<br />
frenetic pace of the city and make for a<br />
good day trip. Lantau Island is home to<br />
the giant Bronze Buddha, reputedly the<br />
largest seated Buddha in the world and<br />
is a good place for walks. Younger<br />
visitors will be pleased to know it’s<br />
also home to Hong Kong Disneyland!<br />
Lamma Island has a small population<br />
of fishermen and expats and is a great<br />
spot for fresh seafood, fine beaches<br />
and countryside walks.<br />
Macau is just an hour from Hong Kong<br />
by jetfoil yet feels a whole world away.<br />
A relaxed blend of Portuguese colonial<br />
architecture and cobbled streets, Macau<br />
is famed for its cathedral ruins, superb<br />
food and extensive casinos. Covering<br />
just 18 kilometres in total, the territory<br />
has always had a distinctively different<br />
atmosphere from Hong Kong, with<br />
public squares, outdoor cafes offering al<br />
fresco dining and swaying palm trees<br />
giving a cosmopolitan, southern<br />
European ambience.<br />
Fruit market, Hong Kong<br />
METROPARK, HONG KONG ISLAND<br />
A good value hotel in an expensive city, this<br />
brightly decorated hotel is well-located, about five<br />
minutes walk from Victoria Park in the Causeway<br />
Bay area. Tin Hau MTR stop is a two minute walk<br />
away, giving excellent access to the rest of Hong<br />
Kong. As is usual with hotels in Hong Kong the<br />
rooms are small, but they are well decorated and<br />
comfortable. The rooftop pool provides an<br />
excellent area to relax with nice views of the city<br />
and the bay.<br />
THE LANGHAM, KOWLOON<br />
Considering the level of service, range of facilities<br />
and location, the Langham offers surprisingly good<br />
value for money. The flagship property of this<br />
internationally renowned chain, it exudes elegant<br />
European style and provides a refreshing<br />
sanctuary with superb facilities and a distinctly<br />
contemporary flair. The charming Mediterraneanthemed<br />
rooftop pool area has a fully equipped<br />
health club and range of massage treatments<br />
providing the perfect opportunity to unwind. It is<br />
situated in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui - one of<br />
the liveliest and most popular areas of the city,<br />
with a vast array of shopping, entertainment and<br />
dining opportunities right on your doorstep. The<br />
Star Ferry terminal and an MTR station are less<br />
than five minutes walk away for easy access to<br />
Hong Kong Island.<br />
The Langham
Dim sum snacks<br />
The Intercontinental Grand Stanford<br />
Street scene, Hong Kong<br />
The Park Lane, Hong Kong Island<br />
The Peninsula<br />
THE PENINSULA, KOWLOON<br />
The Peninsula is the ‘Grand Old Lady’ of Hong<br />
Kong - and the most historical hotel, having<br />
opened her doors in 1928. All these years later,<br />
the hotel retains its elegance and opulence and<br />
remains ‘the’ place to stay when in town. There<br />
are 300 nostalgically decorated rooms and suites,<br />
many with superb harbour views. The hotel has<br />
extensive spa and fitness facilities, including a full<br />
harbour view Roman-style swimming pool. The<br />
fleet of Rolls-Royce limousines parked in front of<br />
the elegant lobby, with immaculately dressed bellboys<br />
in close attendance, is one of the classic<br />
images of Hong Kong. Some of the city’s best<br />
restaurants are within the hotel, for a special<br />
occasion we would recommend the Philippe<br />
Starck designed Felix restaurant at the top of the<br />
building, which has stunning harbour views.<br />
THE INTERCONTINENTAL,<br />
KOWLOON<br />
The Intercontinental is excellently located on the<br />
harbour front, only a few minutes walk from the<br />
Star Ferry and Nathan Road, and is one of Hong<br />
Kong’s most prestigious landmarks. Famous for its<br />
fantastic views over to Hong Kong Island, the<br />
hotel offers an excellent standard of service and<br />
facilities including landscaped gardens overlooking<br />
the harbour. The hotel’s spa is renowned as one<br />
of Hong Kong’s best and we can reserve<br />
treatments for you if you require. The hotel also<br />
has two of Hong Kong’s most fashionable<br />
restaurants – Nobu and Spoon. Both have<br />
outstanding service, and the view from the<br />
lobby is truly breathtaking.<br />
The Intercontinental, harbour view room<br />
THE PARK LANE,<br />
HONG KONG ISLAND<br />
Located in Causeway Bay, one of Hong Kong’s<br />
liveliest shopping and entertainment districts,<br />
the Park Lane Hotel overlooks the city’s largest<br />
park, offering spectacular views of both the<br />
famous harbour and Victoria Park. Comfortable,<br />
elegantly decorated guest rooms together with<br />
a comprehensive range of food and beverage<br />
outlets and impeccable service make the<br />
Park Lane an excellent option for the<br />
discerning traveller.<br />
THE INTERCONTINENTAL<br />
GRAND STANFORD, KOWLOON<br />
Situated on the harbour front, ten minute’s<br />
walk from Kowloon’s major shopping and<br />
entertainment district, the Grand Stanford is a<br />
good base for your stay in Hong Kong. Tsim Sha<br />
Tsui MTR station is around ten minute’s walk<br />
away, meaning that Hong Kong Island is easily<br />
accessible. Some rooms have full or partial views<br />
of the famed harbour, which although not as<br />
good as some of its rivals still manage to impress,<br />
especially given the hotel’s great value rates.<br />
The hotel has excellent facilities with a recently<br />
refurbished rooftop pool area. High levels of<br />
efficient and discreet service are the trademarks<br />
of this reliable hotel.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/hongkong ● 01993 838 220 ● Hong Kong 41
Tibet<br />
Lying majestically in the shadows of the<br />
towering Himalayas, the great<br />
expanse of Tibet is a land of mystical<br />
monasteries, soaring mountains and ancient<br />
traditions. Despite the pressures exerted by<br />
Chinese rule, the Tibetan people cling<br />
proudly to their traditions and cultural<br />
identity and offer a warm welcome to all<br />
who come to marvel at this special place.<br />
Although long exiled in northern India, the<br />
Dalai Lama’s influence remains undimmed<br />
and is evident in Tibet’s countless<br />
monasteries and places of worship. Pilgrims<br />
still flock to Barkhor Square and the<br />
Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, and to reaffirm<br />
their devotion beneath the sheer walls of<br />
the Potala Palace. Beyond the capital<br />
breathtaking scenery awaits – the road to<br />
Kathmandu leads past ice blue lakes beneath<br />
the gaze of Mt Everest to the winding road<br />
that descends into Nepal. The Beijing to<br />
Lhasa Express offers another way to witness<br />
the superb scenery of Tibet, whilst also<br />
taking one of the world’s great rail journeys.<br />
Whatever experience you seek there are<br />
wonders beyond measure to discover here on<br />
the ‘Roof of the World’.<br />
42
<strong>Audley</strong> in Tibet<br />
4<br />
5<br />
3<br />
2<br />
1<br />
Since the ‘liberation’ of Tibet in 1951 the<br />
country has been officially designated an<br />
autonomous region of China. This<br />
controversial status and the subsequent<br />
relocation of large numbers of Han Chinese<br />
has led to the gradual dilution of Tibetan<br />
culture. We use only Tibetan guides and<br />
focus your itinerary on Tibetan culture and<br />
traditions, giving you an insight into the<br />
country and everyday life. Some of the<br />
more remote areas involve adventurous<br />
journeys, but we will tailor your itinerary to<br />
suit your preferences. Whereas most<br />
operators will only take you to Tibet as part<br />
of a fixed-itinerary group, our tours are fully<br />
tailor-made to your own specifications.<br />
Accommodation<br />
1 Lhasa<br />
Place of pilgrimage for Tibetans<br />
and the cultural and religious<br />
centre of Tibet.<br />
2 Tsetang<br />
Remote and isolated home to<br />
Samye, Tibet’s oldest monastery.<br />
The scenery here is spectacular.<br />
3 Lake Namtso<br />
Outstanding natural scenery<br />
and the opportunity for a night<br />
under canvas, a wonderfully<br />
rewarding experience.<br />
Prayer wheels, Tsetang Monastery<br />
Monk praying, Potala Palace, Lhasa<br />
4 Everest Base Camp 5 The Friendship Highway<br />
The awesome sight of the<br />
world’s highest mountain is<br />
simply stunning, and a highlight<br />
of any overland journey.<br />
With pristine lake views and a<br />
breathtaking mountain backdrop,<br />
this is a truly memorable journey<br />
into South Asia.<br />
Luxury hotels have yet to make it onto the<br />
Tibetan Plateau, and some would say this<br />
adds to Tibet’s charm. There is a mixture of<br />
characterful guesthouses and more functional<br />
Chinese hotels. Lhasa has some of our<br />
favourite choices, with several central hotels<br />
decorated beautifully in the Tibetan style.<br />
Two examples are the Dhood Ghu, which<br />
offers excellent Potala views, and Yabshi<br />
Phunkhang, a fabulous Tibetan experience<br />
which has a history of its own. Outside of<br />
Lhasa the hotels are clean and comfortable,<br />
though without frills. The finest view of<br />
perhaps any accommodation in the world is<br />
found at the basic Rongbuk Monastery<br />
Guesthouse, in the very shadow of Everest,<br />
which is ample compensation for an outside<br />
tap and toilet. Catch up on travel stories in<br />
the cosy restaurant here with other travellers<br />
by the stove over tea. For the adventurous,<br />
a night under canvas on the shore of<br />
breathtaking Lake Namtso is also a possibility.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Tibet, please<br />
see page 48-49.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Tibet<br />
specialists 01993 838 215<br />
Lake Namtso, north of Lhasa<br />
Tibet 43
Young monks, Lhasa<br />
Lhasa<br />
Dominating the skyline with its immense walls of<br />
white and ochre, the famous Potala Palace greets<br />
you as you reach the capital of Tibet. In its maze<br />
of corridors, chapels and galleries, you will<br />
discover the former living quarters of the Dalai<br />
Lama and many sacred tombs. In the old Tibetan<br />
quarter you can walk through the narrow streets<br />
and explore nearby Barkhor Square and the<br />
spectacular golden-roofed Jokhang, the country’s<br />
holiest temple.<br />
Just outside Lhasa there are two monasteries of<br />
particular interest: Sera is set around a busy<br />
courtyard where monks spend heated afternoons<br />
debating philosophical questions, whilst Drepung<br />
was once the world’s largest monastery, housing<br />
up to 10,000 monks in its heyday. A day trip into<br />
the countryside also reveals the monastic ruins<br />
and restorations of Ganden, passing monks on<br />
the way to isolated shrines and enjoying fantastic<br />
panoramas across the valley.<br />
Yabshi Phunkhang Hotel, Lhasa<br />
The Lhasa Express<br />
In July 2006, to much official fanfare, the<br />
inaugural Beijing to Lhasa train service plied<br />
the new Qinghai-Tibet rail line linking Tibet<br />
with the Chinese rail network. This staggering<br />
feat of engineering is officially the world’s<br />
highest railway line, carrying passengers to a<br />
dizzying 5,072 metres. The journey across<br />
the northern Tibetan Plateau passes through<br />
some of Tibet’s most isolated and desolate<br />
regions, which would be almost impossible by<br />
any other means. Mountain views are superb<br />
here, and snow lies on the ground as late as<br />
July. This is one of the world’s great railway<br />
journeys, and is very much a working train<br />
with local Tibetans and Chinese people on<br />
board. As well as enjoying some fabulously<br />
remote scenery from your window, you’ll also<br />
YABSHI PHUNKANG HOTEL, LHASA<br />
Yabshi Phunkang, a home of the Dali Lama’s<br />
family in years past, is built in the traditional<br />
Tibetan style and is full of history. Now one of<br />
Lhasa’s most characterful hotels, Yabshi enjoys a<br />
prime location, just a short walk from<br />
the bustling markets of Barkhor Square. Rooms<br />
are tastefully decorated and very comfortable,<br />
with attentive staff and a relaxed atmosphere.<br />
View from Lhasa Express<br />
spot wandering nomads. The train itself is<br />
similar to the standard Chinese trains, with<br />
four berth sleeper compartments, though<br />
oxygen masks are available for those who feel<br />
the effects of the altitude. On arrival in Lhasa<br />
most travellers are well adjusted to altitude<br />
and ready to start their travels in Tibet, making<br />
the train an excellent way to arrive.<br />
Sculpture, Jokhang temple, Lhasa<br />
44
Future Buddha, Maitreya Chapel, Shigatse Group of nuns, Lhasa Wall painting, Samye Monastery<br />
Gyantse fort at dawn<br />
Kumbum, Pelkor Chode Monastery, Gyantse<br />
Gyantse<br />
Gyantse is full of Tibetan character, a great place<br />
to explore historic streets and markets. Discover<br />
the shadowy chambers of Pelkor Chode<br />
Monastery and the splendid four-tier Gyantse<br />
Kumbum, with its impressive murals and statues<br />
filling many chapels and topped by a golden<br />
dome. En route to Gyantse you pass through<br />
stunning Himalayan scenery, the Kamba-La Pass<br />
providing sweeping panoramas and leading down<br />
to the turquoise waters of Yamdrok-tso.<br />
Local woman, Gyantse<br />
Tsetang<br />
A half-day drive from Lhasa along the<br />
Brahmaputra River valley brings you to the fabled<br />
birthplace of the Tibetan people. The modern<br />
town of Tsetang has a fascinating old Tibetan<br />
quarter and is a good base for exploring the area.<br />
To the south, lose yourself in the eerie<br />
Yumbulagang Fort, its 11 metre tower dark<br />
against the sky. Set on a jagged ridge fluttering<br />
with prayer flags, it is a great viewpoint<br />
overlooking the verdant Yarlung Valley. Northeast<br />
of Tsetang, the road crosses the mighty<br />
Brahmaputra River en route to the remarkable<br />
Samye Monastery, oldest of all Tibet’s<br />
monasteries. Under the protective gaze of the<br />
spectacular Utse building, countless stupas and<br />
temples still attract many devout Buddhists.<br />
Yumbulagang fort, near Tsetang<br />
Tashilunpo Monastery, Shigatse<br />
Shigatse<br />
A two-hour drive from Gyantse, Shigatse is home<br />
to the Tashilhunpo Monastery. This former seat<br />
of the Panchen Lama (the highest ranking after<br />
the Dalai Lama) is famed for its striking buildings,<br />
including the Maitreya Chapel, dominated by a<br />
26 metre statue of the Future Buddha, and the<br />
Tomb of the fourth Panchen Lama. The town is<br />
renowned for its skilled carpet weavers and we<br />
also suggest a walk around the colourful fruit and<br />
vegetable markets.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tibet ● 01993 838 215 ● Tibet 45
Overland to Kathmandu<br />
Pausing to take in the views, Friendship Highway<br />
The overland journey on the Friendship<br />
Highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu in Nepal is<br />
one of the finest travel experiences in Asia and<br />
one rich in culture and scenery. The road takes<br />
you past Tibet’s key towns and monasteries,<br />
over 5,000 metre passes that offer jaw-dropping<br />
views over lakes and green valleys below,<br />
and the chance to spend the night at the foot<br />
of Everest.<br />
The journey<br />
From Lhasa the journey through Tibet begins in<br />
earnest as you leave the city behind and head<br />
south over the Plateau. The first day’s drive<br />
takes you up to 5,000 metres over the high<br />
passes, allowing for excellent views of the crystal<br />
clear Lake Yamdrok-tso.<br />
A day in Gyantse is enough to spend time at<br />
Pelkor Chode Monastery and to have a free<br />
afternoon to wander through the traditional<br />
Tibetan streets and buildings. The next day’s<br />
drive on to Shigatse, Tibet’s second largest<br />
town, is not a long one and is well rewarded in<br />
the afternoon with time browsing in the markets<br />
and perhaps seeking out Sakya Monastery.<br />
As you leave Shigatse the views of the Himalaya<br />
become better and better and, leaving the tarmac<br />
of the Friendship Highway behind, the journey<br />
passes through desert-like terrain until the<br />
unmistakeable sight of Everest appears in front of<br />
you. Accommodation here is at 5,100 metres so<br />
it’s wise to take things easy as you acclimatise.<br />
It’s a good idea to wake early on a morning at<br />
Rongbuk Monastery, not only for a chance to<br />
see the robed monks going about their routine<br />
but, more importantly, for the most<br />
unforgettable views of Everest in the early light.<br />
Once the sun is up it is possible to walk up to<br />
the closest vantage point to Base Camp on a<br />
nearby hill. In the distance can be seen the<br />
orange dots of climbers’ tents as they make<br />
camp at the foot of Everest. The afternoon<br />
journey back to the Friendship Highway ends at<br />
the small town of Tingre, which has just a few<br />
buildings and has a ‘Wild West’ feel to it.<br />
The final day’s drive is a stunning one, as you<br />
descend from the Tibetan Plateau and its lifeless<br />
landscape through gradually emerging woodland<br />
and greenery at the border with Nepal, before<br />
the road levels out and you pass through subtropical<br />
greenery, finally arriving in Kathmandu<br />
in the evening.<br />
Yamdrok Tso lake, Friendship Highway<br />
46
Holy man, Kathmandu<br />
Patan museum, Kathmandu<br />
Yaks, Friendship Highway<br />
View of Everest, Rongbuk monastery<br />
Everest Base Camp<br />
While Base Camp on the Nepal side of Everest<br />
sees more visitors, Base Camp in Tibet is in<br />
comparison a lot more isolated, and the views of<br />
Everest arguably finer. There is a tangible sense<br />
of adventure on arrival, after a bumpy five hour<br />
journey south from the Friendship Highway.<br />
As China has opened up to the world it has<br />
become easier for climbers to attempt to climb<br />
Everest from within Tibet. The region, however,<br />
is still as remote as ever and accommodation<br />
(aside from tents) is found at Rongbuk<br />
Monastery, the world’s highest at 5,100 metres.<br />
This remains a functioning monastery and the<br />
small funds that they receive from travellers<br />
enables the monks to maintain the buildings.<br />
For those who stay at Rongbuk Monastery, the<br />
basic facilities, which include outdoor taps and<br />
toilets, is more than compensated for by the<br />
dramatic vews of Everest itself from the bedroom<br />
windows. It’s a breathtaking sight in the morning<br />
or evening as the sunlight shifts over the snows.<br />
Nuns and monks, Rongbuk Monastery<br />
Durbar square, Kathmandu<br />
Kathmandu<br />
Arriving in Kathmandu from Tibet is an<br />
assault on the senses. The climate is hot and<br />
humid, the streets noisy, chaotic and typically<br />
South Asian, and the religious architecture<br />
distinctly Hindu in appearance.<br />
Durbar Square is a delight to wander<br />
through, with its temples and palaces, while<br />
Thamel is excellent for shopping or browsing.<br />
This a great area for eating out as well, and<br />
a curry can be extremely welcome after a<br />
week or two in Tibet. Swayambhunath is one<br />
of the most revered temples in Nepalese<br />
Buddhism, and home to the country’s oldest<br />
stupa. The temple has great views over the<br />
city and the valley beyond and is a pleasant<br />
escape from the traffic and bustle outside.<br />
This is a city with long and rich history and is<br />
a fascinating place to spend a couple of days.<br />
For longer journeys through Nepal, please<br />
see our Indian Subcontinent brochure or<br />
www.audleytravel.com/nepal<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tibet ● 01993 838 215 ● Tibet 47
Prayer wheels, Lhasa<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Tibet specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 215<br />
Getting there<br />
Tibet can be approached either from its<br />
Himalayan cousin, Nepal, with several flights a<br />
week linking Kathmandu with Lhasa, or from<br />
China, with daily flights from Beijing, or the Lhasa<br />
Express train. At certain times of year it is also<br />
possible to take the superb overland journey<br />
between Tibet and Nepal, skirting Mt Everest and<br />
passing through awe-inspiring Himalayan scenery.<br />
Allow for 15 days to make the overland journey<br />
in comfort, including a four night stay in Lhasa.<br />
48<br />
Getting around<br />
In Tibet, we suggest using private vehicles to get<br />
around, to ensure maximum comfort and<br />
flexibility. Roads around Lhasa and the main<br />
towns of Tibet are generally of a reasonable<br />
standard. However, if travelling overland between<br />
Tibet and Nepal, we recommend the use of a<br />
4X4 vehicle – the roads out here start to get<br />
pretty bumpy.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✕ ✕ ✕ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ~ ✕<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Tibet is only practical between the<br />
months of April and November, as inclement<br />
weather prevents the majority of flights entering<br />
the region at other times. Despite the altitude it<br />
is surprisingly warm during this climatic window,<br />
although some rain is likely in July and August. For<br />
their largely clear, azure skies May and October<br />
are generally considered the finest months for<br />
travel, while September is also excellent for<br />
making the overland journey to Nepal.<br />
Time difference: GMT+8 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 16 hours<br />
Altitude<br />
With the entire Tibetan plateau lying above<br />
3,500 metres, the effect of altitude is a factor<br />
we consider when planning your itinerary.<br />
Most travellers only suffer mild and temporary<br />
symptoms such as headaches and breathlessness,<br />
but with this in mind, we always try to build<br />
in time to acclimatise at the beginning of<br />
your journey.<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Tibet on our website, alternatively<br />
please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />
Tibetan lady
Suggested itineraries<br />
TIBET<br />
TIBET<br />
CHINA<br />
Beijing<br />
NEPAL<br />
Kathmandu<br />
Shigatse<br />
Gyantse<br />
Mount<br />
Everest<br />
BHUTAN<br />
Lhasa<br />
Tsetang<br />
NEPAL<br />
Kathmandu<br />
Tingri<br />
Shigatse<br />
Gyantse<br />
Mount<br />
Everest<br />
BHUTAN<br />
Lhasa<br />
Tsetang<br />
Lhasa<br />
Gyantse<br />
Tsetang<br />
INDIA<br />
INDIA<br />
Classic Tibet<br />
This relaxed touring itinerary takes you to the<br />
main highlights of Tibet, travelling via Kathmandu.<br />
You will experience the culture and religion of the<br />
Tibetan people as you visit the most sacred<br />
monasteries and temples, and enjoy breathtaking<br />
scenery and mountain views as you travel on the<br />
Friendship Highway.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Extensions<br />
Fly from the UK to Kathmandu,<br />
via Qatar.<br />
Transit in Doha and fly on to<br />
Kathmandu. The rest of the day is<br />
at leisure to acclimatise.<br />
A day tour of Kathmandu’s key<br />
sights, including a visit to<br />
Swayambhunath Temple.<br />
Fly into Tibet and drive to Tsetang.<br />
Full day at Samye Monastery and<br />
Yambulagang Monastery.<br />
Drive to Gyantse via the Kamba<br />
La Pass.<br />
A full day in Gyantse.<br />
Drive to Shigatse to explore<br />
Tashilunpo Monastery and the<br />
local markets.<br />
Drive back to Lhasa.<br />
A full day exploring the Jokhang<br />
Temple, Sera Monastery and the<br />
Dalai Lama’s Summer Palace.<br />
Visit the Potala Palace and<br />
Drepung Monastery.<br />
Fly back to Kathmandu for an<br />
overnight stay.<br />
Return to the UK via the Gulf,<br />
arriving the same day.<br />
Tibet combines well with Nepal for those<br />
interested in exploring the region further. Please<br />
see our Indian Subcontinent brochure for more<br />
information about Nepal. Alternatively, time in<br />
Tibet can be combined with some of the sights<br />
of Classic China, or of China’s Yunnan province.<br />
Overland from Lhasa to<br />
Kathmandu<br />
This itinerary makes for a rewarding overland<br />
journey from Lhasa to Nepal, experiencing ancient<br />
culture and awesome mountain scenery. This is<br />
one of the world’s great travel experiences.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Fly from London to Kathmandu<br />
via Qatar.<br />
Transfer in Doha for your flight to<br />
Kathmandu. Spend the rest of the<br />
day at leisure in Kathmandu.<br />
See the highlights of Kathmandu,<br />
including Swayambunath temple.<br />
Fly to Lhasa's Gongkar Airport, from<br />
where you drive to Tsetang.<br />
Visit Samye Monastery. Continue<br />
on to Yambulagang Palace, home<br />
of the first 32 kings of Tibet.<br />
Drive to Lhasa.<br />
Visit the Potala Palace and in the<br />
afternoon explore Sera Monastery.<br />
Enjoy a tour of Lhasa’s most<br />
important temple, the Jokhang,<br />
and afterwards travel to the seat<br />
of the State Oracle, at Drepung.<br />
Drive to Gyantse on the Southern<br />
Friendship Highway.<br />
Visit the Pelkor Chode Monastery<br />
and the Kumbum.<br />
Drive to Shigatse via Shalu Monastery<br />
and Tashilunpo monastery.<br />
Enjoy the passing scenery on the<br />
full day drive towards the Himalayas,<br />
spending the night at Rongbuk<br />
Monastery.<br />
Walk to Base Camp for staggering<br />
views of Everest, before making the<br />
journey back to Tingri.<br />
Continue on towards Kathmandu.<br />
Fly back to London, via the Gulf.<br />
The Lhasa Express<br />
The Lhasa Express is the highest railway line in the<br />
world and one of the world’s great rail journeys.<br />
You’ll have time in Beijing before spending two<br />
days crossing China and ascending to Lhasa, taking<br />
in some fantastic scenery on the way. Once in<br />
Tibet you’ll see some of the main highlights, before<br />
returning to the UK via Beijing.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Days 6-7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />
Relax and recover from your flight,<br />
perhaps beginning to explore Beijing<br />
in the afternoon.<br />
Take in Tiananmen Square and the<br />
Forbidden City. In the afternoon,<br />
visit the Summer Palace.<br />
Leave the city to see one of China’s<br />
iconic sites – The Great Wall.<br />
See the Temple of Heaven, and in<br />
the afternoon take a rickshaw ride<br />
around Beijing’s Hutong districts<br />
before boarding the Lhasa Express<br />
in the evening.<br />
Drink in the stunning scenery,<br />
arriving into Lhasa in the evening<br />
of day seven.<br />
Visit the superb Potala Palace<br />
and in the afternoon explore<br />
Sera Monastery and see the<br />
monks debating.<br />
Enjoy a tour of Lhasa’s most<br />
important temple, the Jokhang,<br />
and afterwards travel to the seat<br />
of the State Oracle, at Drepung.<br />
Drive to Gyantse via the Kamba<br />
La Pass.<br />
A full day in Gyantse.<br />
Drive to Tsetang.<br />
Full day at Samye Monastery and<br />
Yambulagang Monastery.<br />
Fly back to Beijing for a night’s stay.<br />
Return to the UK, arriving later the<br />
same day.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tibet ● 01993 838 215 ● Tibet 49
Taiwan<br />
From the bustling, high-tech<br />
capital in the north to the<br />
breathtaking gorges and mountain<br />
scenery of the central highlands,<br />
Taiwan is North Asia’s surprise<br />
jewel, often regrettably overlooked<br />
in favour of its larger neighbours.<br />
Early Portuguese sailors gave<br />
Taiwan the name ‘Ihla Formosa’<br />
which means ‘Beautiful Island’, and<br />
it’s easy to see why. Sheer cliffs drop<br />
vertically into the ocean, deep canyons<br />
cut through her middle and thick<br />
forest stretches across a mountainous<br />
region, covering two thirds of the<br />
island in green. Taiwan is also home<br />
to some of the most welcoming people<br />
in all of Asia, the world’s finest<br />
collection of Chinese artefacts, and a<br />
colourful and dynamic culture<br />
distinctly different from its neighbour<br />
across the Taiwan Strait.<br />
Sun Moon Lake<br />
3<br />
5 6<br />
1 Taroko Gorge<br />
Translated as ‘Magnificent and<br />
Beautiful’, the name says it all.<br />
2 Sun Moon Lake<br />
Taiwan’s largest lake, home<br />
to one of Taiwan’s<br />
indigenous tribes.<br />
Wufei temple, Tainan<br />
1<br />
5 Taipei’s night markets<br />
Grab yourself a bargain and<br />
some great local food at one<br />
of the capital’s lively markets.<br />
4<br />
7<br />
2<br />
Ladies, Sun Moon Lake<br />
3 Yangmingshan’s<br />
hot springs<br />
Purify yourself the traditional<br />
Taiwanese way.<br />
4 Temples of Tainan<br />
The highest concentration of<br />
temples in Taiwan can be<br />
found here.<br />
6 National Palace Museum<br />
Taiwan’s best museum, detailing<br />
not just the history of Taiwan,<br />
but of mainland China as well.<br />
7 Alishan Mountain<br />
Alishan is Taiwan’s highest<br />
mountain, perfect for walking<br />
and other outdoor pursuits.<br />
Tea pickers, Alishan Mountains<br />
50
Central Taiwan<br />
Central Taiwan offers such a diverse range of<br />
landscapes – from jagged peaks, to banana palm<br />
plantations and golden sand beaches, that it is<br />
hard to know where to start. Located almost<br />
exactly in the centre of the country, Sun Moon<br />
Lake is the most beautiful lake in Taiwan,<br />
resplendent with sparkling blue water and an<br />
impressive mountain backdrop. It’s also home to<br />
the sumptuous Lalu Hotel, which is a real treat<br />
and Taiwan’s finest accommodation. <strong>Travel</strong> south<br />
along the breathtaking New Island Highway and<br />
you arrive at Alishan Mountain. This is Taiwan’s<br />
most famous mountain resort, perfect for those<br />
in search of fresh mountain air and impressive<br />
vistas over the surrounding countryside.<br />
Southern Taiwan<br />
To the south of the country – an hour’s drive<br />
from the swarming metropolis of Kaohsiung – is<br />
the little-known village of Maolin, a peaceful oasis<br />
of rivers, waterfalls, babbling brooks, mountains,<br />
and some of Taiwan’s less explored hiking trails.<br />
Night market, Taipei<br />
Skyline, Taipei<br />
Taipei, northern Taiwan<br />
and Taroko Gorge<br />
From one of the tallest buildings in the world to<br />
the thick plumes of incense swirling up from<br />
Buddhist and Taoist temples, Taipei is a city of old<br />
and new. It is the thriving heart of Taiwan, the<br />
bustling centre of commerce, government and<br />
culture, and for most people the first stop on a<br />
tour of the island. Most visitors make a beeline<br />
for the National Palace Museum, the world’s<br />
largest museum of Chinese artefacts, filled with<br />
the country’s finest artistic and cultural objects<br />
from a period spanning three millennia. Take time<br />
to explore Taipei’s parks and gardens, bustling<br />
night markets and traditional teahouses. Take a<br />
day trip to the cobblestone alleys of Keelung, or<br />
venture into the Yangmingshan National Park,<br />
only thirty minutes from Taipei yet boiling with<br />
hot springs, fumaroles and volcanic craters. A<br />
short journey along the scenic eastern coast<br />
brings you to the island’s premier attraction –<br />
the majestic, marble-walled Taroko Gorge.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> in Taiwan<br />
Few people treat themselves to more than<br />
a fleeting glimpse of Taiwan, and even fewer<br />
venture out of the capital. Although only<br />
around half the size of Ireland, Taiwan boasts<br />
a public transport network to rival her<br />
Japanese neighbour, with an excellent train<br />
and bus network between major towns<br />
and domestic air links for those in a hurry.<br />
We recommend taking advantage of this,<br />
and also delving further into the country<br />
by road to explore Taiwan’s mountainous<br />
interior and numerous national parks. If you<br />
have the time, we’d strongly suggest spending<br />
some time in the south – this is the more<br />
Taiwanese part of Taiwan, the north being<br />
more dominated by Han Chinese that<br />
came over with Chiang Kai Shek after the<br />
communist revolution. For the train<br />
enthusiast, there are a couple of fine journeys<br />
that stand out: the old steam train which<br />
chugs out of the Alishan National Park and<br />
the new high speed train that speeds<br />
between Taipei and Kaohsiung in the far<br />
south. For those who want to combine a<br />
taste of Taiwan with China, there are now<br />
direct flights from many Chinese cities.<br />
Practicalities<br />
Taiwan has a good standard of<br />
accommodation throughout, though hotels<br />
tend to be slanted towards the business<br />
market and there are few character options.<br />
Taiwan’s weather is as varied as its landscape,<br />
but can be generally termed as sub-tropical.<br />
Its two distinct seasons, hot and cool, run<br />
predictably from May to October and<br />
November to March respectively, and the<br />
typhoon season runs from mid-August to<br />
early October. Aside from those who are<br />
looking to conquer one of its mountainous<br />
peaks, it is best to aim for the spring and<br />
the autumn when the air is fresh, the<br />
flowers are in bloom and travel is at its<br />
most comfortable.<br />
Alishan Mountain<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Taiwan, please<br />
see our website.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
suggested itineraries, accommodation,<br />
climate information and articles written<br />
by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Taiwan<br />
specialists 01993 838 260<br />
Taiwan 51
Silk Route<br />
The Silk Route, a complex network of<br />
ancient trading routes that snake from<br />
Xian in China through the high passes of<br />
Central Asia into Persia, Arabia and Europe<br />
has inspired travellers and scholars for<br />
centuries. Before it was surpassed by seaborne<br />
trade it was the main artery for the exchange<br />
of goods and information between east and<br />
west. Though silk was one of the most<br />
important commodities transported along<br />
it, many other goods were traded in both<br />
directions – perfumes, jewels, glassware, and<br />
spices to mention just a few. The flow of ideas<br />
was just as important – with Islam spreading<br />
as far east as China. Xian, traditionally<br />
seen as the start of the Silk Route still has<br />
a significant Muslim population. In the<br />
opposite direction, Europe received the<br />
inventions of irrigation wheels and paper<br />
from China. Today, the fascinating mix of<br />
diverse cultures, breathtaking landscapes and<br />
intricate history makes for some of the most<br />
rewarding travelling in the world. Vast<br />
deserts, ancient ruins, towering mountains,<br />
imposing architecture and bustling markets<br />
all await the adventurous traveller along the<br />
ancient Silk Route.<br />
52
<strong>Audley</strong> along the<br />
Silk Route<br />
7<br />
1 Kashgar Sunday Market<br />
One of the world’s great<br />
markets and the very essence of<br />
the Silk Route at the crossroads<br />
between the Far East, the Indian<br />
Subcontinent and Central Asia.<br />
2 The Karakoram Highway<br />
Some of the most breathtaking<br />
mountain scenery in the world<br />
with many peaks well over<br />
7,000 metres bordering<br />
Pakistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan<br />
and Kyrgyzstan.<br />
3<br />
8<br />
2<br />
1<br />
4<br />
Tile detail, Registan, Samarkand<br />
3 The Torugart Pass<br />
At 3,752 metres high this pass<br />
between China and Kyrgyzstan<br />
is legendary.<br />
4 The Tian Shan<br />
mountains<br />
Separating China and Central<br />
Asia, the jagged Tian Shan<br />
mountain range boasts some<br />
spectacular peaks that tower<br />
over the grasslands and deserts<br />
at their feet.<br />
5 Xian<br />
An ancient capital of China and<br />
the eastern-most point of the<br />
ancient Silk Route.<br />
6 Dunhuang<br />
Home to the Mogao Thousand<br />
Buddha caves and some of the<br />
highest sand dunes in the world.<br />
6<br />
5<br />
We have been operating trips in this<br />
challenging part of the world for many years<br />
now. Our specialists have been to many<br />
corners of these little visited parts, so we<br />
really can talk from personal experience<br />
when organising trips here. Whether you<br />
have days or weeks to spend following in<br />
the footsteps of some of the world’s most<br />
resilient traders, there is plenty to explore<br />
along the Silk Route. A shorter, one week<br />
trip may focus on the incredible architecture<br />
of Uzbekistan or the beautiful scenery of<br />
neighbouring Kyrgyzstan while a longer trip<br />
might encompass a number of countries such<br />
as Western China, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan<br />
and many of the key points of interest along<br />
the way. For the ultimate Silk Route<br />
experience, it’s even possible to travel all the<br />
way from China to Istanbul, via Kyrgyzstan,<br />
Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Iran on a<br />
truely unforgettable journey.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Accommodation along the Silk Route is<br />
invariably simple and each country offers a<br />
distinctly different style; Western China tends<br />
to offer international hotels, Kyrgyzstan<br />
offers guesthouses and Uzbekistan offers<br />
caravanserai-style courtyard properties.<br />
Unless you are staying in yurts in Kyrgyzstan,<br />
the majority of accommodation along the<br />
Silk Route is en suite and quite comfortable.<br />
There are few luxury hotels in the region –<br />
the best available are in the capitals of<br />
Tashkent and Bishkek, though these tend<br />
to be focused on business travellers.<br />
7<br />
Registan Square,<br />
Samarkand<br />
Samarkand’s centre piece, here<br />
three medressas form a truly<br />
humbling sight.<br />
8<br />
Traditional yurt stay,<br />
Lake Song Kol<br />
A night on the edge of the lake<br />
gives a real taste for the<br />
nomadic way of life.<br />
Walking in Kyrgyzstan<br />
Kyrgyzstan is a walker’s paradise<br />
and some of the alpine trails<br />
between Lake Karakol and the<br />
Tian Shan mountains are the<br />
best in the country.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travelling along the Silk<br />
Route, please see pages 60-61.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Central Asia<br />
specialists 01993 838 205<br />
Torugart pass, between China and Kyrgyzstan<br />
Silk Route 53
Karakoram highway, Kashgar<br />
Xinjiang province and the<br />
west of China<br />
The far western provinces of China, at the fringes<br />
of the country, feel a world away from the<br />
modern metropolises of Beijing and Shanghai.<br />
The people here are distinctive – many of them<br />
are Muslims Uighurs, and the faces you see on<br />
the streets will look markedly different to those<br />
in the towns and cities in the rest of China.<br />
Scenically the region is distinct too, with the vast<br />
Taklamakan desert giving way to the craggy<br />
Tian Shan mountains near the borders with<br />
Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.<br />
Local muslim man, Xian<br />
54<br />
Labrang Monastery, Xiahe<br />
Xian<br />
Xian, capital of ancient China under several of<br />
the country’s most important dynasties was the<br />
eastern-most point on the ancient Silk Route.<br />
It was from Xian that Chinese silk began its epic<br />
journey overland through the sands of the Gobi<br />
and Taklamakan deserts to the high passes of<br />
Central Asia and beyond. Xian soon rose to<br />
become one of the great cities in the vast but<br />
fragmented China. Its old name – Chang’an meant<br />
‘long or perpetual peace’ and this is testament to<br />
the city’s undisputed greatness. To this day, Xian<br />
maintains a vibrant Muslim Quarter at the heart<br />
of which lies the Grand Mosque – a reflection of<br />
the city’s cosmopolitan history. For more about<br />
Xian see page 14.<br />
Xiahe<br />
Set in a picturesque mountain valley and home<br />
to one of the leading Tibetan monasteries outside<br />
Lhasa, Xiahe offers those unable to visit Tibet the<br />
chance to experience the unique Lamaist<br />
Buddhism and Tibetan culture. The thriving<br />
Labrang monastery, built in 1709, is the heart of<br />
the town and attracts thousands of Tibetan<br />
pilgrims each year, dressed in their finest and<br />
most colourful clothing. Join the pilgrims on their<br />
devotional prayer-wheel circuit around the<br />
monastery or visit the high grassland steppe close<br />
to town where Tibetan nomads graze their yaks<br />
and skylark’s song fills the air.<br />
Lamas, Xiahe
Buddhist cave painting, Mogao caves, near Turpan Uigur girl, Kashgar old town Traditional house, Kashgar<br />
Mingsha singing sand dunes, Dunhuang<br />
Dunhuang<br />
The city of Dunhuang has been a centre for<br />
Buddhist art and sculpture for over 1,500 years.<br />
There is nowhere along the Silk Route quite like<br />
it, with cave frescoes that have withstood the<br />
test of time nestled between massive sand dunes<br />
and barren mountains. The splendid paintings<br />
date back to the Tang dynasty and have stood<br />
sentinel to the changing times ever since. A visit<br />
here is richly rewarding, showing not only the<br />
extraordinary mix of cultures but also the<br />
brilliance of the artists themselves.<br />
SILK ROAD HOTEL, DUNHUANG<br />
The Silk Road Hotel is one of the most attractive<br />
places to stay along the Chinese section of the<br />
Silk Route. The hotel sits in the shadow of the<br />
Mingsha singing sand dunes which are said to be<br />
the highest in the world. Watching the sun set<br />
behind this magnificent backdrop from your<br />
vantage point on the hotel’s rooftop terraces with<br />
the heat of the Gobi warming the air is a fine way<br />
to end a day of exploration. Rooms here are<br />
tastefully, if simply, decorated and are en suite<br />
making this the perfect stopping off point in the<br />
Gobi desert.<br />
Haggling at the market, Kashgar<br />
Kashgar<br />
The great city of Kashgar, a base for commerce<br />
and cultural exchange for countless centuries, is<br />
perhaps the most interesting and exciting in<br />
western China. Its celebrated Sunday market, a<br />
chaotic mix of people and animals, is a captivating<br />
event. Farmers and traders from all over southern<br />
Xinjiang and beyond converge here once a week,<br />
with cries of ‘bosh bosh!’ (‘coming through!’), to<br />
buy or sell anything from horses to hats, and a<br />
great deal besides. The bizarre and wonderful<br />
sight of young men test-driving donkeys and<br />
horses, checking teeth and hooves, is one that will<br />
stay with you forever. Getting here is also part of<br />
the fun. There are daily flights from Urumqi that<br />
pass directly over the stunning Tian Shan<br />
mountains, or a train that winds its way into the<br />
peaks and on through the desert. Whichever way<br />
you come, Kashgar will not disappoint.<br />
Silk Road Hotel, Dunhuang<br />
Ruined city of Jiahe, near Turpan<br />
Turpan<br />
This town, nestling in the world’s second lowest<br />
valley, is an improbable success story. For over<br />
2,000 years it has been inhabited by various<br />
peoples despite receiving almost no rain at all.<br />
It owes its curious longevity to an ingenious<br />
irrigation system once prevalent throughout<br />
Central Asia. Here 5,000 kilometres of<br />
underground tunnels channel glacier water from<br />
the high mountains down to the valley, sustaining<br />
a population of over 250,000 people and the<br />
grapes for which the area is famed. Surrounding<br />
the town are numerous fascinating sites, including<br />
the ruined desert city of Jiahe and the ancient<br />
Mogao Thousand Buddha caves.<br />
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<strong>Travel</strong>ling along the great Silk Route<br />
Detail, wooden pavillion, Samarkand<br />
What to expect<br />
<strong>Travel</strong>ling along the Silk Route should be seen<br />
as a journey and not a holiday, and you should<br />
have a reasonable level of fitness. There is<br />
very little in the way of luxury en route and<br />
travelling conditions can be demanding. In<br />
addition, hotel and guesthouse owners in this<br />
part of the world can have a somewhat<br />
cavalier attitude to reservations, and we may<br />
sometimes need to make changes to where<br />
you stay at relatively short notice, though this<br />
would always be to a hotel of the same<br />
standard. There are some long drives and<br />
rough roads, and toilet facilities en route are<br />
not always of the highest standards. However,<br />
these are all small compromises when coupled<br />
with some truly outstanding scenery and the<br />
fascinating cultures you encounter en route.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> options<br />
Traders originally moved their goods along the<br />
Silk Route by camel and pack horse. Although<br />
in theory it’s possible to complete the journey<br />
entirely overland, you would need a lot of<br />
time and thick skin. Instead we suggest a<br />
mixture of domestic flights and road journeys,<br />
with perhaps an overnight train journey or two<br />
for those who enjoy rail travel.<br />
Crossing the border<br />
The Torugart Pass is perhaps the most<br />
famous of the Central Asian border crossings<br />
and links Kyrgyzstan with Western China.<br />
At 3,752 metres, the Torugart is considerably<br />
lower than the nearby Khunjerab which<br />
connects China to Pakistan, but its rugged<br />
inhospitable beauty is not to be<br />
underestimated. Starting just outside Kashgar,<br />
the unpaved road to the border winds amongst<br />
the Tian Shan mountains through stunning<br />
scenery, but it is the Kyrgyz side that hosts the<br />
most breathtaking views of all. Wherever your<br />
destination, this is a long day, but once the dust<br />
has settled, also one of the most rewarding.<br />
Group tours<br />
For those who prefer to tackle this journey in<br />
the company of others, we also run a group<br />
tour, Along the Silk Route, taking in the main<br />
highlights of this epic trip. Starting in Beijing,<br />
China, we follow the ancient trade routes out<br />
to Kashgar, before crossing the Torugart Pass<br />
into Kyrgyzstan, finishing up in Uzbekistan. You’ll<br />
be accompanied by an experienced guide the<br />
whole way. For more details please contact<br />
one of our Central Asia specialists.<br />
56
Herders, Lake Song Kol<br />
Horses, Tian Shan mountains<br />
Kyrgyzstan<br />
Perched between two of the greatest deserts on<br />
Earth, remote and mountainous Kyrgyzstan glows<br />
in lush contrast to its dusty neighbours. Within<br />
only a hundred miles of the scorched plains you<br />
can be high on the grasslands, listening to larksong<br />
and contemplating the majesty of the mountain<br />
scenery as you watch nomads herd their yaks.<br />
The Kyrgyz themselves, especially the nomadic<br />
families of the high steppe, are disarmingly<br />
friendly and welcoming to visitors. Bishkek, the<br />
leafy capital, makes for a pleasant night or two’s<br />
stay, but the beautiful scenery is the real reason<br />
to come here.<br />
Yurt stay, Karakol<br />
Elders, Karokol<br />
Issyk Kul and Song Kol<br />
To the east of the capital Bishkek is the deep and<br />
imposing Lake Issyk-Kul. On all sides, mountains<br />
rise almost sheer from the water, jagged peaks<br />
capped with snow for most of the year. On the<br />
southeastern shore is Karakol, a pretty old Russian<br />
settlement with gingerbread houses and a<br />
photogenic bazaar. The town is an excellent base<br />
for Kyrgyzstan’s best and most accessible hiking,<br />
with Altyn Arashan – possibly the most beautiful<br />
place in a very beautiful country – only a short<br />
drive away. To the north and east of Issyk Kul<br />
are the highest peaks of the Tian Shan mountains,<br />
either side of the massive Inylchek Glacier. Further<br />
west, set in a high alpine valley is Lake Song Kol.<br />
During the summer months nomadic herdsmen<br />
set up yurt camps in the fertile pastures<br />
surrounding the lake, and visitors diverting from<br />
the road from the Chinese border can soak up<br />
the splendour of the region before making the<br />
final push for the capital, Bishkek.<br />
Offering bread, Lake Song Kol<br />
YURT STAYS, KYRGYZSTAN<br />
Central Asians have been using the yurt for<br />
literally thousands of years. Portable, light, cool in<br />
summer, warm in winter, they personify the<br />
unfussy and seasonal life of the nomad. The basic<br />
structure, layers of felt stretched over a wooden<br />
frame, could not be simpler, yet it manages to<br />
support entire families through the summer<br />
months. The best area to see them is the<br />
meadows in Kyrgyzstan, where, in July, it can seem<br />
as though half the population has disappeared<br />
into the hills. You can of course stay in them as<br />
well, something we heartily recommend. The<br />
welcome is always warm and, though the facilities<br />
are akin to camping, the locations of many yurts<br />
mean marvellous views at sunrise and sunset and<br />
what feels like the freshest air in the world. Our<br />
favourite locations are at Lake Song Kol and in<br />
the stunning valleys along the southern shore<br />
of Issyk-Kul.<br />
Lake Issyk Kul<br />
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Kalta Minor and the west gate, Khiva<br />
Old ladies, Khiva<br />
Uzbekistan<br />
This barren, landlocked country, for so long<br />
invisible to Western eyes, contains within its<br />
borders three of Central Asia’s most brilliant<br />
cities: Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand. The wealth<br />
and strategic importance of the region has<br />
attracted covetous invaders across the ages:<br />
Macedonians, Russians, Arabs and Turks have all<br />
left their indelible marks throughout the country,<br />
with countless dazzling monuments to power,<br />
strength, wealth and piety. The capital, Tashkent<br />
is the hub of Central Asia – not the most<br />
attractive city, but one where it may be necessary<br />
to spend at least a night.<br />
58<br />
Khiva<br />
Eight hundred kilometres across the desert from<br />
Tashkent lies Khiva, a well-preserved and<br />
fascinating city, its azure-glazed tiles glinting in<br />
the midday sun. The city was well known to the<br />
Victorians, who were shocked at tales of the<br />
barbarity of the local rulers, the Khans of<br />
Khorezm. Within the redoubtable city walls,<br />
however, a parallel history of scholarship and<br />
study, typified by the wondrous medressas and<br />
mosques, with their intricate majolica patterns,<br />
is waiting to be discovered. Northwest of Khiva,<br />
at Nukus, visitors can witness the tragic remnants<br />
of the Aral Sea, where rusting trawlers are<br />
marooned far from the receding waters. A visit<br />
to this desolate region contrasts sharply with the<br />
pomp and majesty elsewhere in the country.<br />
City walls, Khiva<br />
The Great Game<br />
‘The Great Game’ refers to the strategic<br />
enmity between the British and Russian<br />
empires for control of Central Asia and<br />
India. The phrase was coined by the<br />
British Army officer Arthur Connolly<br />
(1807–1842), who was eventually<br />
captured and beheaded at The Ark in<br />
Bukhara by the emir of Uzbekistan on<br />
charges of spying for the British Empire.<br />
With both sides eyeing the bounty that<br />
was India, competition for power in this<br />
desolate part of the world was often<br />
intense and bloody and ironically,<br />
without a discernable winner. The tactics<br />
used by both sides were often dirty,<br />
and frequently underhand in this vast<br />
power play between two huge empires<br />
that were officially at peace with one<br />
another. The intrigue reached a peak in<br />
the period between 1813 and the 1907<br />
Anglo-Russian Convention. The Great<br />
Game helped to shape the recent<br />
history of Central Asia and lead to some<br />
of the region’s most famous characters.
Dome of Tilla Kari mosque, Samarkand<br />
Schoolboys, Samarkand<br />
The Ark, Bukhara Detail, Divan Begi Madrassa, Bukhara Goods at market, Samarkand<br />
Bukhara<br />
One of the holiest places of Islam, the venerable<br />
and captivating city of Bukhara was also one of<br />
the key stops along the Silk Route. In the Middle<br />
Ages, when the region was at its zenith, scholars<br />
travelled from all over the Islamic world to<br />
study here, including two giants of Persian<br />
culture, Ibn Sina and Firdausi. The monuments<br />
on show are truly impressive, from the astonishing<br />
Kalon minaret, spared by an awestruck Genghis<br />
Khan and bombed by the Red Army, to the<br />
diminutive but exquisite Ismail Samani<br />
Mausoleum, with its Zoroastrian motifs and<br />
intricate brickwork. The main sights can be seen<br />
in a day but this is a place where little seems to<br />
have changed from the medieval era, and taking<br />
things a little slower lets you absorb the thrillingly<br />
authentic atmosphere.<br />
Registan at dusk, Samarkand<br />
Samarkand, Jewel of the Silk Route<br />
“Sweet to ride forth at evening from the wells<br />
When shadows pass gigantic on the sand<br />
And softly through the silence beat the bells<br />
Along the Golden Road to Samarkand.”<br />
James Elroy Flecker<br />
Few names invoke such romance as that of<br />
Samarkand, for countless centuries a glorious<br />
magnet for travellers, scholars, tyrants and<br />
poets. Evidence of the city’s extraordinary<br />
2,500 year history is everywhere, from the<br />
crumbling remains of Marakanda – the old<br />
Greek city – to the grand imposing<br />
monuments of the Islamic Renaissance. Take<br />
an afternoon stroll through Registan Square,<br />
and absorb the same atmosphere of opulence<br />
and grandeur that has drawn visitors to the<br />
city for so long.<br />
South of Samarkand, across the Zerafshan<br />
Mountains is the small town of Shakhrisabz.<br />
As the birthplace of Tamerlane it became a<br />
symbol of the tyrant’s enormous, though<br />
transient, power. The remains of some<br />
gargantuan buildings can still be seen, including<br />
the 45 metre high portal of the Ak Saray<br />
Palace with a Kufic inscription proclaiming<br />
The Sultan is the Shadow of God.<br />
Melon seller, Samarkand<br />
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Spice trader, Xiahe<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Central Asia specialists to<br />
start planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 205<br />
Getting around<br />
To cover the vast distances along this ancient<br />
trade route, we suggest taking some internal<br />
flights, especially in the west of China. These are<br />
on modern planes, run by reputable Chinese<br />
airlines. There is also a railway line that runs all<br />
the way from Beijing to Kashgar for those who<br />
are fans of rail journeys. Elsewhere, we suggest<br />
private vehicles which offer the greatest flexibility<br />
when travelling between places.<br />
60<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✕ ✕ ✕ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Central Asia and Western China’s continental<br />
climate is characterised by very hot and dry<br />
summers and bitterly cold winters. In general<br />
spring and autumn are the ideal times to visit the<br />
region, when the flowers blossom and local<br />
bazaars throng with life. In summer travel is<br />
possible, but expect it to be uncomfortably<br />
hot at times.<br />
Time difference:<br />
GMT+5 hours (Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan)<br />
GMT+8 hours (Western China)<br />
Flight time from UK:<br />
7.5 hours (Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan)<br />
10 hours (China)<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip along the Silk Route on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Trucks on the Torugart pass
Suggested itineraries<br />
KAZAKHSTAN<br />
MONGOLIA<br />
KAZAKHSTAN<br />
UZBEKISTAN KYRGYZSTAN<br />
Urumqi<br />
Khiva<br />
Bishkek<br />
Turpan<br />
Karakol<br />
Tashkent<br />
Bukhara<br />
Samarkand Kashgar<br />
CHINA<br />
Torugart pass<br />
Dunhuang<br />
Railway line<br />
Beijing<br />
I<br />
I<br />
I<br />
I I<br />
I<br />
Xian<br />
I I<br />
I I<br />
I<br />
I<br />
UZBEKISTAN<br />
Khiva<br />
Bukhara<br />
TURKMENISTAN<br />
KYRGYZSTAN<br />
Tashkent<br />
Samarkand<br />
I<br />
AFGHANISTAN<br />
TIBET<br />
AFGHANISTAN<br />
Classic Silk Route<br />
A classic journey and one of the most beautiful<br />
in the world, taking you along the Silk Route of<br />
Western China, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Fly overnight to Beijing.<br />
Arriving into Beijing, transfer to a<br />
flight on to Xian, with the rest of the<br />
day to relax.<br />
Fly to the oasis town of Dunhuang in<br />
the Gobi desert.<br />
Visit Mogao, site of the Thousand<br />
Buddha Caves. In the afternoon, visit<br />
the towering Mingsha sand dunes.<br />
Take an overnight train to Turpan.<br />
Arrive in Turpan in the morning.<br />
Visit the ransacked caves at Bezeklik<br />
before visiting a traditional Uighur<br />
village, the ruins of Gaochang and the<br />
tombs of Astana.<br />
Visit the ruined city of Jiaohe. Return<br />
to Turpan via the karez irrigation<br />
system museum.<br />
Drive to Urumqi to take a flight to<br />
Kashgar, China’s westernmost city.<br />
Take a daytrip along the breathtaking<br />
Karakoram Highway to Lake Karakul.<br />
Visit the world famous Kashgar<br />
Sunday market. In the afternoon,<br />
explore the main bazaar in the<br />
city centre.<br />
Cross the 3,752m Torugart Pass<br />
into Kyrgyzstan.<br />
Uighur children, Kashgar<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Day 16<br />
Day 17<br />
Day 18<br />
Day 19<br />
Day 20<br />
Day 21<br />
Continue your journey deeper into<br />
Kyrgyzstan, to the town of Karakol.<br />
En route, skirt the southern edge of<br />
picturesque Lake Issyk Kul.<br />
Do some walking in the gorgeous<br />
alpine valley of Jeti Oghuz.<br />
Drive around the northern edge of<br />
Lake Issyk Kul to the Kyrgyz capital<br />
of Bishkek.<br />
Fly to Tashkent in neighbouring<br />
Uzbekistan.<br />
Fly to the walled city of Khiva.<br />
Explore the city in the afternoon.<br />
Drive from Khiva on to Bukhara.<br />
Explore the highlights of Bukhara,<br />
including the ominous Ark where<br />
Connolly and Stoddart famously met<br />
their fate in June 1842.<br />
A day at leisure to people-watch or<br />
continue your exploration of Bukhara.<br />
Drive to the legendary city of<br />
Samarkand, stopping at Tamerlane’s<br />
former hometown of Shakhrisabz<br />
en route.<br />
Visit the mighty Registan, Avenue of<br />
Tombs, Bibi Khanym mosque and<br />
Tamerlane’s mausoleum.<br />
Return to Tashkent in time for your<br />
flight back to the UK in the<br />
afternoon, arriving later in the day.<br />
Stay longer<br />
For those looking for a truly epic trip, this itinerary<br />
could be extended through Turkmenistan to Iran,<br />
and even on to Istanbul from there.<br />
Uzbekistan Discovered<br />
This shorter itinerary will see you standing in the<br />
shadows of some of the best architecture along<br />
the Silk Route including the legendary cities of<br />
Samarkand and Bukhara. Starting and ending in<br />
Tashkent, you’ll visit the walled city of Khiva, the<br />
‘Holy City’ of Bukhara and the incredible<br />
architecture of Samarkand.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Fly overnight to Tashkent.<br />
Arrive into Tashkent, after time to<br />
rest take a half-day tour of the<br />
Uzbek capital city.<br />
Fly to Khiva and explore the<br />
old town.<br />
A further day in Khiva.<br />
Drive to the ‘Holy City’ of Bukhara.<br />
Explore the highlights of Bukhara<br />
with your guide.<br />
At leisure in Bukhara.<br />
Drive to Samarkand breaking the<br />
journey at Tamerlane’s former home<br />
town of Shakhrisabz on the way.<br />
Visit the main sights of Samarkand.<br />
At leisure to explore Samarkand as<br />
you wish.<br />
Return to Tashkent for your<br />
afternoon flight back to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Neighbouring Kyrgyzstan can easily be combined<br />
with this itinerary to make for a great two<br />
week trip.<br />
Traditional embroidery, Uzbekistan<br />
Necropolis, Samarkand<br />
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Iran<br />
Prepare to be surprised. This huge<br />
country, three times the size of France,<br />
contains a bewildering array of world-class<br />
sites, lasting testament to a tumultuous<br />
5,000 year history that has left an indelible<br />
mark on both East and West. The country’s<br />
bounty of historic places is without equal in<br />
the Islamic world. The jewel in the crown is<br />
Esfahan, a beautiful city and shining<br />
example of glorious Islamic architecture and<br />
Persian culture, it has one of the biggest and<br />
most spectacular city squares in the world.<br />
Together with Shiraz and nearby Persepolis,<br />
this triumvirate forms the core of any<br />
journey to the country. Away from these<br />
highlights, there is much else to drink in. In<br />
the northwest the city of Tabriz has been<br />
famous for the manufacture of carpets for a<br />
thousand years. In the far south are the<br />
ancient remains of the Elamite civilisation<br />
at Choqa Zanbil. In the centre are the<br />
picturesque villages of the Zagros<br />
Mountains, giving way to the deserts of<br />
Eastern Iran and the cities of Kerman.<br />
To the east is the city of Mashhad, home to<br />
the mausoleum of Imam Reza, a direct<br />
descendant of the Prophet Mohammed.<br />
62
<strong>Audley</strong> in Iran<br />
7<br />
5<br />
2<br />
6<br />
1<br />
4<br />
3<br />
We feel that Iran is a greatly underrated<br />
destination and much misunderstood. We<br />
have taken the time to go and visit ourselves,<br />
to see what the situation is truly like. Every<br />
one of us who has been has come back<br />
enamoured with the friendliness of the<br />
people, the diversity of the culture and the<br />
sheer unexpectedness of it all. For those<br />
who want to really discover every nook and<br />
cranny, we suggest having a national guide,<br />
who would accompany you throughout your<br />
time in the country. For those who prefer a<br />
little more independence, we can arrange a<br />
driver to accompany you – he or she would<br />
speak enough English to communicate, but<br />
would leave you to discover the sights.<br />
Whichever style of travel you choose –<br />
you can be sure of a memorable visit to<br />
this fascinating country.<br />
Political situation<br />
Wind towers, Yazd<br />
1 Esfahan<br />
Iran’s masterpiece, an exquisite<br />
city and one of the most<br />
beautiful in the Islamic world.<br />
4 Yazd<br />
This desert city has winding<br />
lanes and wind towers.<br />
5 Abyaneh<br />
Experience rural Iran in this<br />
picturesque, verdant village.<br />
6 Tehran<br />
Iran’s capital is difficult to love –<br />
but it has some great museums<br />
and impressive palaces.<br />
7 Kashan<br />
A majestic bazaar and some<br />
beautiful Qajar era mansions.<br />
Teahouse, Esfahan<br />
Iran’s image in the West is a predominently<br />
political one and fails to paint the full picture<br />
of this remarkable country. Where we ought<br />
to see a complex and diverse nation born of<br />
Empire and conquest, we more usually see a<br />
one-dimensional, sclerotic theocracy in a<br />
perpetual state of defiance. This should not<br />
deter anyone from visiting. On the contrary,<br />
ordinary people that you encounter on your<br />
trip will treat you in the manner of an<br />
honoured guest. As with all countries in<br />
which <strong>Audley</strong> operates, the UK Foreign &<br />
Commonwealth Office acts as an arbiter of<br />
whether countries are safe to visit, and we<br />
will always follow their advice.<br />
2<br />
Shiraz<br />
A relaxed city and the final<br />
resting place of many of Iran’s<br />
great poets, Shiraz is an ideal<br />
base from which to explore the<br />
region’s antiquities.<br />
3<br />
Persepolis<br />
Find out more<br />
Marvel at this ancient city, once<br />
the heart of one of the world’s<br />
mightiest empires, hidden under<br />
the sands for thousands of years.<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Iran, please see<br />
page 67.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Iran<br />
specialists 01993 838 265<br />
Tomb of Hafez, Shiraz<br />
Statue, Persepolis<br />
Iran 63
Bazaar, Shiraz<br />
Tehran<br />
There is nowhere better in Iran than Tehran to<br />
get an overview of Persian history and culture.<br />
The museums here are amongst the best in the<br />
Middle East and are an essential part of any visit.<br />
The pick of them is probably the Golestan Palace,<br />
though the National Museum of Iran and the<br />
National Jewels Museum are fantastic to stroll<br />
through. Like any other capital Tehran has its<br />
fair share of problems. On some days the traffic<br />
can seem like a glacial flow, but try not to let<br />
this negative image blot out the many positives<br />
of a visit here.<br />
Shiraz<br />
There’s no wine here. If there were this would<br />
be the most convivial city in the Middle East. The<br />
locals are friendly, liberal and literate; the climate<br />
is pleasant for most of the year; and the nearby<br />
attractions of Persepolis and Naqsh-e-Rostam are<br />
the equal of anything in Athens or Rome. If you<br />
like bazaars then welcome to the best one in Iran,<br />
selling everything from carpets to cake under a<br />
vaulted ceiling dating back 250 years. Shiraz also<br />
excels in architecture – indeed many of its finest<br />
buildings were built to rival Esfahan.<br />
Detail, Golestan Palace, Tehran<br />
Persepolis and the<br />
Persian Empire<br />
Beneath the searing heat of the Persian sun,<br />
backed by Mt Rahmat, lie the ruins of the<br />
once-great Achaemenid Empire. Smothered<br />
in sand and rock until the 1930s, this amazing<br />
site was once a religious and cultural<br />
powerhouse, dominating peoples as disparate<br />
as the Scythians of Siberia and the Copts of<br />
Ethiopia. It is this ancient empire that<br />
has given today’s Iranians a distinctly<br />
un-Arabic culture and character. Whilst most<br />
Iranians see themselves as Islamic, they do<br />
not consider themselves as Arabic, but as<br />
distinctly Iranian or Persian. This is a direct<br />
consequence of the vast empire once<br />
controlled from Persepolis, which continues<br />
to loom large in the national psyche.<br />
Columns of the Great Hall, Persepolis<br />
Carving detail, Persepolis<br />
Persepolis succumbed finally to Alexander<br />
the Great, whose thirst for conquest was so<br />
thoroughly slaked here that he left only<br />
rubble – though this alone is supremely<br />
impressive, reminding the casual visitor<br />
of the sheer depth and longevity of Persian<br />
history and culture. Anyone with even a<br />
passing interest in antiquity should make a<br />
visit here their first priority.<br />
64
Bridge of 33 arches, Esfahan Iman Mosque, Esfahan Ceiling of Iman Mosque, Esfahan<br />
Shah Abbas, who made Esfahan his capital<br />
Esfahan<br />
Imagine an architectural portfolio so astonishing<br />
in its craftsmanship that it epitomises the best of<br />
five hundred years of Islamic culture, and you<br />
have imagined Esfahan. There are at least a dozen<br />
sights of dazzling quality here, including three of<br />
the finest religious buildings anywhere – the Jame,<br />
Imam and Sheikh Lotfollah Mosques. These would<br />
rank alongside the glories of Damascus,<br />
Samarkand and Istanbul in any list of the mustsees<br />
of the Islamic world. Nothing can prepare<br />
you for the heart-stopping moment when you<br />
first see the scale and grandeur of Imam Square,<br />
the world’s second largest public space, containing<br />
within it the zenith of Persian art and architecture.<br />
Walking along the banks of the Zayandeh River,<br />
exploring the Armenian quarter or simply<br />
relaxing in a teahouse, Esfahan is an unmitigated<br />
delight and one of the best places in Iran to<br />
meet local people, for whom this city is their<br />
proudest achievement.<br />
Schoolgirls playing, Esfahan<br />
THE ABBASI, ESFAHAN<br />
Built around the remains of a caravanserai<br />
originally established by Shah Abbas, The Abbasi<br />
is Esfahan’s, if not Iran’s, best and most<br />
characterful hotel – though as with the rest of<br />
Iran, do not expect outstanding service. In many<br />
respects, The Abbasi is like a museum. Everything<br />
is on a grand scale, and walking into the huge<br />
courtyard cannot fail to impress. There is a<br />
swimming pool and sauna (single sex only,<br />
available on a rotational basis) and a choice of<br />
attractive restaurants, with outdoor dining in the<br />
central courtyard a real treat in spring and<br />
summer. The location, within walking distance of<br />
Imam Square, cannot be faulted. The ornate<br />
breakfast room is remarkable and may just be<br />
the grandest room you’ll ever have breakfast in!<br />
Courtyard at The Abbasi, Esfahan<br />
Carpet shop, Esfahan<br />
Iman Square, Esfahan<br />
www.audleytravel.com/iran ● 01993 838 265 ● Iran 65
Badgirs, Yazd<br />
Mosaic at Friday mosque, Yazd<br />
Woman with her donkey, Abyaneh<br />
Old town, Yazd<br />
Yazd<br />
The centre of Iran is dominated by the Zagros<br />
mountains and the Dasht-e Kavir desert.<br />
Squeezed between the two is Yazd, the centre<br />
of Zoroastrianism and an excellent place to<br />
walk through and explore. The architecture<br />
here is unique in Iran, particularly the traditional<br />
badgir towers – providing an ancient form of<br />
air-conditioning to the adobe houses below.<br />
Yazd is also home to some excellent, characterful<br />
accommodation options tucked away in the<br />
corners of the bazaar.<br />
Courtyard hotel, Yazd<br />
COURTYARD HOTELS, YAZD<br />
Yazd has always been a wealthy town owing to<br />
its location on key trade routes. In the 18th and<br />
19th centuries, merchants in the town built grand<br />
homes, set around several courtyards. Some of<br />
these have now been converted into hotels, and<br />
offer some of the country’s most characterful<br />
accommodation. Many are in the heart of the<br />
old town, amongst winding lanes, adding to the<br />
atmosphere. Two of our favourites are the Hotel<br />
Dad and the Fahadan, but there are many others.<br />
Village of Abyaneh<br />
Further afield<br />
Most visitors to Iran take in the key cities of<br />
Esfahan, Shiraz and Yazd, but this is a large,<br />
diverse country, with much else to offer. An<br />
easy place to add on to an itinerary is the village<br />
of Abyaneh, close to Esfahan. This pretty village<br />
is unspoilt, accessible, and gives a taste of rural<br />
life in Iran. To the north of the capital are the<br />
Alborz Mountains and the Caspian Sea. Heading<br />
west, Kurds and Azaris start to dominate, and<br />
the landscape is surprisingly verdant. The city<br />
of Tabriz, home to some of the world’s greatest<br />
carpet makers is a great base to explore the<br />
surrounding region – including the village of<br />
Kandovan, where the entire population lives<br />
in caves.<br />
Between Tehran and the Iraqi border are the<br />
Kurdish provinces, full of precipitous mountain<br />
villages, stark and haunting scenery and a culture<br />
that has weathered the vicissitudes of history for<br />
thousands of years. East of Tehran, the landscape<br />
becomes much drier and desert like. The city of<br />
Mashhad, near the Turkmenistan border is home<br />
to Iran’s holiest shrine, the tomb of Shia Islam’s<br />
eighth Imam, Imam Reza. A visit here is to truly<br />
enter the heart of the Shia, and therefore the<br />
heart of the Iranian experience.<br />
Building for performing of rituals, Yazd<br />
66<br />
Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Yazd
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Iran specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Esfahan<br />
Tehran<br />
Abyaneh<br />
Yazd<br />
Tehran<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 265<br />
Shiraz<br />
Persepolis<br />
Esfahan<br />
Getting around<br />
Yazd<br />
Once in Iran, we suggest using private vehicles to<br />
give you the maximum flexibility. These are of a<br />
western standard, air conditioned and will be<br />
driven by experienced, safe drivers used to<br />
dealing with the sometimes hectic traffic<br />
conditions in Iranian cities.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Considering its location, Iran has unusually<br />
diverse weather. The north is very hot in summer<br />
and cold in winter. In the south you’re in the<br />
Persian Gulf, so expect pretty warm days even in<br />
December and January. Broadly speaking the best<br />
times of year to visit are in spring and autumn,<br />
when there are no extremes of temperature in<br />
most places.<br />
Time difference: GMT+3.5 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 6 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Iran on our website, alternatively<br />
please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />
Classic Iran<br />
This 13 day trip is a comprehensive visit to this<br />
most fascinating of countries. Starting in Tehran,<br />
you’ll visit the desert town of Yazd, Persepolis, as<br />
well as the incredible city of Esfahan. Giving you a<br />
taste of rural life in Iran, you’ll also spend a night<br />
in the pretty village of Abyaneh.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Extensions<br />
Fly from London to Tehran overnight.<br />
After time to relax, start exploring<br />
the Iranian capital.<br />
Visit the Qajar era Golestan Palace,<br />
the Carpet Museum and take in the<br />
impressive National Jewels Museum.<br />
Drive to the village of Abyaneh.<br />
Spend the afternoon walking in<br />
the village.<br />
Drive to Yazd, stopping en-route at<br />
Nain, centre of carpet production.<br />
Spend the day exploring Yazd, in the<br />
afternoon visit ancient Zoroastrian<br />
sights including the Towers of Silence.<br />
Continue to Shiraz, via Pasargadae,<br />
location of the tomb of Cyrus<br />
the Great.<br />
Leave the city to see Persepolis, in<br />
the evening explore Shiraz’s bazaars.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Esfahan. Take a sunset stroll<br />
along the Zayandeh River.<br />
Take in Imam Square and the<br />
spectacular Imam and Sheikh Lotfallah<br />
Mosques, and Ali Qapu and Chehel<br />
Sotun Palaces.<br />
A day at leisure to continue<br />
exploring Esfahan.<br />
Return to Tehran via the Fin Gardens<br />
in Kashan and Qom, the heartland of<br />
the Islamic Revolution in Iran.<br />
An early start for your return flight<br />
back to the UK.<br />
Iran can potentially be combined with the<br />
countries of Central Asia and the Silk Route,<br />
to make a unique and memorable trip.<br />
Iran Uncovered<br />
This trip is designed to give you an overview of<br />
the major sites and is perfect for those with less<br />
time. Starting in Tehran, you drive to the intriguing<br />
desert city of Yazd. From here you continue to<br />
Esfahan to savour the stunning architecture and<br />
beauty of Iman Square, before returning to Tehran<br />
for a final night.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Stay longer<br />
Fly from London to Tehran arriving<br />
the following morning.<br />
Transfer to your hotel for a few<br />
hours to relax and unwind, then<br />
explore the Iranian capital.<br />
Drive to Yazd via Qom and Nain.<br />
Spend the day exploring the desert<br />
city of Yazd.<br />
Drive onto Esfahan, arriving at<br />
lunchtime.<br />
A full day tour of Esfahan.<br />
After a morning in Esfahan, return<br />
to Tehran.<br />
Return to the UK, with a late<br />
afternoon arrival.<br />
If you have a few extra days you can include<br />
Shiraz and Persepolis as in our Classic Iran trip.<br />
Carving detail, Persepolis<br />
Mosque, Shiraz<br />
www.audleytravel.com/iran ● 01993 838 265 ● Iran 67
Ukraine<br />
Often overlooked as a destination,<br />
wherever you choose to travel to<br />
in this huge country you'll be richly<br />
rewarded by experiencing a part of the<br />
world that few people choose to go to.<br />
It has been the stage for many<br />
historical events: The Yalta Conference<br />
in World War II, when Churchill,<br />
Stalin and Roosevelt met to decide<br />
the fate of post-war Europe, was<br />
hosted here, and it was the site of the<br />
fateful Charge of the Light Brigade<br />
in the Crimean War, seared into<br />
British folklore by Tennyson's poem.<br />
Culturally, Ukraine has a verve and<br />
vibrancy unique to a newly<br />
independent country, while historical<br />
influences remain. Scenically, the Black<br />
Sea coast offers the beautiful rolling<br />
coastline of the Crimean peninsula<br />
and the unique and precious wetlands<br />
of the Danube river delta. Elsewhere,<br />
the countryside is dotted with castles<br />
and pretty villages that have remained<br />
unchanged for centuries.<br />
Market square, Lviv<br />
1<br />
Kiev<br />
Capital of a newly independent<br />
Ukraine, spiritual home of the<br />
Russian people.<br />
2<br />
Livadia palace, Yalta<br />
Rich in atmosphere, this is<br />
where Stalin, Churchill and<br />
Roosevelt met to carve up<br />
Europe between them in the<br />
dying days of World War II.<br />
3<br />
The Crimea<br />
5<br />
1<br />
Pretty coastal scenery, warm<br />
pleasant weather and many<br />
sites of cultural interest make<br />
this one of Ukraine’s most<br />
attractive regions.<br />
St Andrew’s Church, Kiev<br />
4 Sevastopol<br />
Site of the Crimean war and<br />
home to the Russian fleet, this<br />
city has a long naval history.<br />
5<br />
Lviv<br />
6<br />
3<br />
Cultural capital of Ukraine,<br />
this undiscovered gem is<br />
reminiscent of Prague before<br />
the stag parties and tourist<br />
hordes arrived.<br />
4<br />
2<br />
Coastline, Crimea<br />
6 Odessa<br />
A grand, crumbling city by<br />
the sea.<br />
68
Kiev<br />
Ukraine’s bustling capital, Kiev, has a wealth of<br />
history far greater than its current importance<br />
today would suggest. It is from here that the<br />
neighbouring countries of Russia and Belarus<br />
descended, and the significance of Kiev in the<br />
history of art, architecture and religion of these<br />
areas is clear in the beautiful old town and<br />
stunning churches. The 11th century St Sophia’s<br />
Cathedral is an exquisite jewel, while the<br />
Andrievsky Ascent has a pretty collection of<br />
17th and 18th century dwellings, some of which<br />
are now small art galleries. A visit to the famous<br />
Caves Monastery is also a must – founded in<br />
1051 by Greek monks after Ukraine adopted<br />
Christianity as its religion, this is the home of<br />
the Ukrainian and Russian orthodox churches.<br />
Lviv<br />
At various times part of Poland, the Austro-<br />
Hungarian Empire and the Soviet Union, Lviv<br />
(or Lvov in Russian) is a charming, much<br />
underrated destination. Despite (or perhaps<br />
because of) this multicultural history, it is the<br />
centre of Ukrainian culture. Unlike in Kiev, little<br />
Russian is heard on the streets, and the city is<br />
home to the more fervent Ukrainian nationalists.<br />
The old town is a delight to wander round,<br />
with grand old buildings reminiscent of<br />
Budapest or Prague.<br />
Ukrainian lady with needlework, Lviv<br />
Swallow’s Nest Castle, near Yalta<br />
Odessa and Yalta<br />
The southern city of Odessa on the Black Sea is<br />
well worth a visit, offering museums, architecture<br />
and the grand spectacle of the Potemkin Steps,<br />
made famous in Eisenstein’s classic film ‘Battleship<br />
Potemkin’. Further down the Black Sea coast on<br />
the Crimean peninsula, the long-established resort<br />
of Yalta, sits between the brooding Crimean<br />
Mountains and the Black Sea. The nearby Livadia<br />
Palace is rich in atmosphere, having hosted the<br />
famous Yalta Conference of 1945 where Stalin,<br />
Roosevelt and Churchill decided the direction of<br />
the post-World War II world. Also within reach<br />
of Yalta is the town of Sevastopol – site of the<br />
key battles of the Crimean War, as well as the<br />
ill-fated Charge of the Light Brigade.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> in Ukraine<br />
Ukraine is easily accessible, with direct flights<br />
linking London and Kiev. At the time of going<br />
to print, no visa is required for EU citizens,<br />
making arrival simple and hassle free. Once<br />
there, we make use of the reliable train<br />
network and domestic flights to cover the<br />
longer distances. Ukraine can easily be<br />
combined with Russia, and a trip to ‘The<br />
Three Capitals’ of Kiev, Moscow and St<br />
Petersburg is highly recommended.<br />
Practicalities<br />
A week in Ukraine is long enough to see<br />
Kiev and one or two other places. To see<br />
Kiev, Lviv, Odessa and Yalta, you would need<br />
at least ten days, ideally two weeks. If you<br />
want to combine Kiev with Moscow and<br />
St Petersburg, allow at least 10 days. Kiev is<br />
a popular city with business travellers and<br />
has a reasonable range of good quality hotels,<br />
with one or two smaller boutique style<br />
places. Outside of Kiev, the choice is a little<br />
more limited but there are more and more<br />
places opening.<br />
The best time to travel in the Ukraine is<br />
springtime, when the weather is clement and<br />
blossom is on the trees, and autumn when<br />
the weather is also most pleasant. Summer is<br />
enjoyable in the north, but the south can be<br />
extremely hot and the beaches crowded.<br />
Livadia Palace, near Yalta<br />
Caves Monastery, Kiev<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Ukraine, please<br />
see our website.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Ukraine<br />
specialists 01993 838 245<br />
Ukraine 69
Russia<br />
Stretching from the Black Sea across the<br />
vast central expanses of Siberia to fiery<br />
Kamchatka and the Bering Straits, Russia is<br />
a country of epic proportions. Long hidden<br />
behind the Soviet curtain, and still much<br />
misunderstood, a visit here will confound<br />
your stereotypes. It is its history that captures<br />
the imagination – the taming of this vast<br />
land, the rise and fall of one of the world’s<br />
greatest imperial empires, and the<br />
replacement of this with a vast communist<br />
one. In the west, Moscow and St Petersburg<br />
offer tremendous monuments to the grandeur<br />
of the Tsars and the imposing ambition<br />
of the communist days. Beyond the cities,<br />
amongst the canals and waterways,<br />
exquisite onion-domed wooden churches and<br />
traditional kremlin remain in a land where<br />
the rise and fall of communism changed<br />
little. Crossing the Urals to Asia, the great<br />
lakes and taiga forest of Siberia await. The<br />
trains chug endlessly across this vast expanse,<br />
connecting remote villages and towns to the<br />
outside world. To travel along this great<br />
Trans-Siberian railway is to experience one<br />
of the world’s greatest journeys, crossing<br />
continents and connecting east and west.<br />
70
<strong>Audley</strong> in Russia<br />
1<br />
2<br />
4<br />
Lake Baikal<br />
5<br />
Russia can be experienced in countless ways.<br />
St Petersburg makes for an ideal city break<br />
for those with limited time. Moscow and<br />
St Petersburg can be combined into a one<br />
week trip. Kiev in the Ukraine can easily be<br />
added to make for a fascinating trip tracing<br />
the entire history of the region. The epic<br />
Trans-Siberian rail journey linking Russia with<br />
China and Mongolia is one of the world’s<br />
greatest journeys. For those who prefer to<br />
take things at a more leisurely pace, a cruise<br />
between Moscow and St Petersburg is a<br />
relaxing way to see some of the smaller<br />
towns and villages of Russia. We have<br />
travelled extensively in the region, seeking<br />
out the best located hotels, the most<br />
comfortable and convenient trains, and the<br />
best order in which to see things.<br />
3<br />
Kremlin Cathedrals, Moscow<br />
1 The Hermitage<br />
3 The Kremlin<br />
One of the world’s most<br />
impressive collections, all<br />
housed in the splendour of the<br />
former residence of the Tsar.<br />
2 St Petersburg’s<br />
summer palaces<br />
Built by the tsars to escape the<br />
heat of the city in summer, a<br />
visit here gives you an idea of<br />
the unlimited wealth and power<br />
of Russia’s imperial rulers.<br />
Tsar's Gold Train, Lake Baikal<br />
The powerhouse of world<br />
communism, and where<br />
Russia’s rulers still hold sway<br />
over the largest country in<br />
the world.<br />
4 Lake Baikal<br />
‘The pearl of Siberia’,<br />
containing around 20% of<br />
the world’s fresh water.<br />
Changing of the guards, Kremlin<br />
5 Suzdal<br />
A pretty little town unspoilt<br />
by Soviet era architecture,<br />
seemingly with a church on<br />
every corner.<br />
Train journeys<br />
Russia has one of the largest<br />
networks of railways in the<br />
world, including the famous<br />
Trans-Siberian route. A train<br />
journey is a great way to meet<br />
some of the locals.<br />
Take in a ballet<br />
Both Moscow and St Petersburg<br />
have world-famous ballet<br />
companies.<br />
Accommodation<br />
In the Soviet era, hotels in Russia had a<br />
reputation for having pokey rooms, poor<br />
service, and even worse food. These days<br />
things have moved on, and in all the major<br />
cities there are now well managed hotels<br />
offering good service and a wide range of<br />
facilities. St Petersburg has the best range of<br />
accommodation, with some beautiful historic<br />
five star hotels, as well as better value smaller<br />
boutique style establishments. Moscow is a<br />
popular business destination, so hotels tend<br />
to be less characterful.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Russia, please<br />
see pages 78-79.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Russia<br />
specialists 01993 838 230<br />
Russia 71
Canal scene, St Petersburg<br />
St Petersburg<br />
St Petersburg rivals Venice and Paris as one of the<br />
world’s most romantic cities. Built to order by<br />
Peter the Great in 1703, the city boasts a<br />
magnificent profusion of grand palaces, galleries<br />
and theatres including the magnificent Hermitage,<br />
once a winter palace to the Tsars and now home<br />
to one of the world’s finest art collections. This<br />
was the heart of the Russian Empire at its most<br />
glorious and extravagant, a period of wealth and<br />
sophistication that bequeathed the city such a fine<br />
cultural legacy. Great writers and composers<br />
including Dostoevsky, Tchaikovsky and Rimsky<br />
Korsakov produced their finest works here, and<br />
today the Kirov Ballet, based at the Mariinsky<br />
theatre, continues to rival Moscow’s more<br />
celebrated Bolshoi. Thanks to its northerly<br />
latitudes the city throngs with life during the<br />
famous White Nights of midsummer. For those<br />
who prefer a quieter experience, spring and<br />
autumn offer magnificent colours, and in the<br />
depths of winter the snow-covered landscapes<br />
transform St Petersburg into its Dr Zhivago<br />
best. Whether admiring the glorious palaces<br />
from a canal boat cruise, exploring the fabulous<br />
treasures of the Hermitage or Russian Museum,<br />
or simply taking a stroll down Nevsky Prospekt,<br />
St Petersburg offers an unforgettable introduction<br />
to Russia with a distinctly European twist.<br />
Navel cadets, St Petersburg<br />
St Petersburg’s<br />
Summer Palaces<br />
Many of Russia’s rulers built sumptuous<br />
summer palaces around the city. During the<br />
summer months the entire court would<br />
decamp here to escape the heat, the dust,<br />
and the smell. There are around half a dozen<br />
palaces in differing states of repair, most of<br />
which can be visited. The oldest is that of<br />
Peter the Great. Built overlooking the Gulf of<br />
Finland, Peterhof is known for its Grand<br />
Cascade – a series of over 140 different<br />
fountains, engineered by Peter himself.<br />
Perhaps the most impressive palace is that<br />
associated with Catherine the Great, another<br />
of Russia’s most revered rulers. Designed by<br />
Rastrelli (architect of the Hermitage as well),<br />
it glitters like a jewel in the landscaped<br />
HELVETIA HOTEL, ST PETERSBURG<br />
Located a short stroll from St Petersburg’s main<br />
thoroughfare, Nevsky Prospect, the Helvetia offers<br />
good value accommodation in the heart of the city.<br />
Rooms, which are clean, comfortable and of a<br />
reasonable size, are all set around a pleasant<br />
courtyard. The hotel is in a charming 19th century<br />
building and has several restaurants available for<br />
guests, or there are many options available nearby.<br />
Catherine Palace, St Petersburg<br />
grounds. The amber room contains more<br />
than six tonnes of amber, and is the palace’s<br />
centrepiece. The nearby Pavlovsk Palace was<br />
built by Catherine the Great’s son. Although<br />
not nearly as richly decorated as others, the<br />
grounds are a delight to wander round, with<br />
countless slightly crumbling statues, chapels<br />
and follies to be discovered.<br />
72
The Hermitage<br />
The Hermitage (also known as the Winter<br />
Palace) appeals on many levels. From here a<br />
succession of Romanov Tsars ruled over<br />
Russia for over two hundred years. It was the<br />
storming of this building that ushered in the<br />
Bolshevik revolution of 1917. Many rooms<br />
are richly decorated, filled with gifts to one<br />
Tsar or another, along with beautiful<br />
antique furniture.<br />
The Hermitage is also, famously, one of the<br />
world’s premier art galleries. The collection<br />
was started by Catherine the Great, and<br />
grew substantially following the 1917<br />
revolution, when the state seized the<br />
collections of many of Russia’s noble families<br />
and leading industrialists. The collection<br />
contains impressive pieces from most<br />
periods, with especially notable paintings by<br />
Rubens, Rembrandt, Matisse and Picasso, to<br />
mention but a few. To see all of the pieces<br />
would take weeks – we suggest a half-day<br />
visit to see the highlights. It is also possible<br />
to take a fascinating behind the scenes trip<br />
around the Hermitage storage facilities,<br />
where the bulk of the museum’s three<br />
million exhibits are stored.<br />
Novgorod<br />
Peter and Paul Fortress, St Petersburg<br />
Mushroom seller, Novgorod<br />
Grand Hotel Europe, St Petersburg<br />
GRAND HOTEL EUROPE,<br />
ST PETERSBURG<br />
Russia’s oldest hotel, the Grand Hotel Europe is<br />
something of a legend. A bastion of European<br />
culture throughout the years of communism, the<br />
Grand Hotel Europe stands proudly on Nevsky<br />
Prospect, opposite the Gostini Dvor luxury<br />
market. Visited by Tchaikovsky and his wife for<br />
their honeymoon, a string quartet plays every<br />
Friday evening in the restaurant. Now under the<br />
renowned management of Orient Express Hotels,<br />
the Grand Hotel Europe boasts a level of<br />
excellence that has made it one of the ‘Leading<br />
Hotels of the World’. Stroll out along Nevsky and<br />
find yourself alongside the Kazan Cathedral,<br />
Fontanka Embankment, or the Church on Spilt<br />
Blood. We especially like the Terrace rooms, each<br />
of which has an individual terrace with excellent<br />
views over the city – perfect for relaxing on after<br />
a day spent taking in the sights!<br />
Just three hours’ drive south of St Petersburg,<br />
Novgorod is one of the most significant historical<br />
centres in the whole of Russia, still famed for its<br />
diverse and beautiful architecture. Though its<br />
name means ‘new town’ Novgorod’s origins date<br />
back to the 9th century, when it developed into<br />
one of Russia’s principle trading and ecclesiastical<br />
hubs. The reconstructed kremlin, the centrepiece<br />
of the town, contains the beautiful St Sophia’s<br />
cathedral, perhaps the oldest building in Russia<br />
with frescoes dating back to the 12th century.<br />
The city overflows with cultural relics, including<br />
the Palace of Facets, a 15th century clock tower,<br />
and numerous impressive churches, museums<br />
and galleries. Novgorod can be visited as a day<br />
trip from St Petersburg, or you can spend a<br />
night or two there en route between Moscow<br />
and St Petersburg.<br />
Fortress, Novgorod<br />
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Russian river cruises<br />
Church of the Transfiguration, Kizhi Island<br />
A river cruise between Moscow and St<br />
Petersburg is a relaxing way to see a little more<br />
of Russia than just these two primary cities. With<br />
Russia being an expensive destination, it can also<br />
be a more cost effective way to see some of the<br />
villages, churches and monasteries of the pretty<br />
Russian countryside. The boats that ply the route<br />
are not super-luxurious, but all the ones we use<br />
are clean and comfortable with en suite cabins.<br />
The route<br />
The two cities are connected by a series of<br />
canals, as well as the mighty River Volga. The<br />
boats also cross the two largest lakes in Europe<br />
– Lake Onega and Lake Ladoga. You can travel<br />
in either direction. Boats generally stop at some<br />
of the so called Golden Ring towns – ancient<br />
towns and cities surrounding the capital, some of<br />
which predate Moscow. The longer cruises tend<br />
to spend more time here; the shorter ones just<br />
give you a taster.<br />
Kizhi Island and Goritsy Convent<br />
Kizhi Island in the middle of Lake Onega is<br />
home to one of Russia’s most iconic sites –<br />
the Church of the Transfiguration. With thirty<br />
domes, the church looks like something from a<br />
fairytale, all the more remarkable for being built<br />
entirely of wood in 1714 – no nails were used<br />
in its construction at all. There are a number<br />
of other notable wooden buildings on Kizhi<br />
that have been brought from the surrounding<br />
area to make for an interesting display.<br />
Roughly half way between Moscow and St<br />
Petersburg is Goritsy convent, famed as the<br />
place where Ivan the Terrible exiled not one,<br />
but two of his wives. Nearby is the Kirillov<br />
Belozersky Monastery, once one of the<br />
country’s most powerful.<br />
Yaroslavl and Uglich<br />
Legend has it that Yaroslavl was founded on the<br />
spot where Yaroslavl the Wise killed a bear set<br />
upon him by suspicious locals. The fine frescoes<br />
of the Church of Elijah the Prophet are amongst<br />
the best in the country and the heavily fortified<br />
Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour<br />
holds some of Russia’s oldest and finest religious<br />
icons. Uglich is a quaint if slightly shabby town,<br />
noted as the place where one of Ivan the<br />
Terrible’s sons was murdered by his successor.<br />
Interior of Church of Elijah the Prophet, Yaroslavl<br />
The M/S Tolstoy<br />
Religious procession, Yaroslavl<br />
74
Church of Dmitry, Uglich<br />
Classic Russia River Cruise<br />
This short itinerary is a great way to see some of<br />
the highlights of Russia, with the option to extend<br />
at either end for those that want to see more of<br />
Moscow and/or St Petersburg. As well as time in<br />
the two main cities, you’ll also visit the island of Kizhi,<br />
with its fairy tale wooden church and the historic<br />
convent of Goritsy. The cruise can also be taken<br />
from St Petersburg to Moscow.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Fly to Moscow.<br />
A full day tour of Moscow, including<br />
the Kremlin.<br />
Depart Moscow, arriving into Uglich in<br />
the afternoon.<br />
Cruise on to Goritsy.<br />
Continue on to the island of Kizhi.<br />
You’ll arrive in the village of Mandrogui<br />
in time for lunch on shore, before<br />
continuing to St Petersburg.<br />
Arrive in St Petersburg, where you will<br />
have a full day tour of the city.<br />
Return flight to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Both Moscow and St Petersburg have much to offer,<br />
and we can easily extend your time in either city.<br />
There are longer cruises available which visit<br />
Yaroslavl as well. For those that want to trace the<br />
history of Russia back to its beginnings, Kiev can<br />
potentially be added to the itinerary.<br />
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Red Square and St Basil’s Cathedral, Moscow<br />
Moscow<br />
Medieval capital, heart of Soviet domination and<br />
powerhouse of the capitalist revolution, Moscow<br />
has for centuries acted as the fulcrum of Russian<br />
political, cultural and economic life. Though<br />
influence has shifted at times to St Petersburg,<br />
only Moscow can boast the legacy of these three<br />
distinct eras of Russian history. Amongst the<br />
medieval onion-domes of St Basil’s and the stark<br />
Soviet-era high-rise blocks, gleaming skyscrapers<br />
bear testimony to the excitement and opportunity<br />
of a 21st century, modern city. The list of worldrenowned<br />
historic sites, great buildings and galleries<br />
here is immense: Red Square, the Kremlin, the<br />
Pushkin Museum and Tretyakov Galleries, Arbat<br />
Street and the Bolshoi Theatre to name but a few.<br />
The Kremlin and Red Square<br />
Icons of Russia, the first glimpse of the Kremlin<br />
and Red Square cannot fail to inspire awe. The<br />
Kremlin was the heart of world communism for<br />
decades, and continues to be the President’s<br />
official residence. Perhaps surprisingly, it is notable<br />
for its collection of churches and cathedrals, many<br />
of which date back to the 15th century. As well as<br />
being the burial place of many of Russia’s rulers,<br />
the Kremlin also has a stunning collection of riches<br />
– from the Imperial Crown Jewels to the biggest<br />
single collection of Fabergé eggs in the world.<br />
Interestingly, the red in Red Square derives not<br />
76<br />
from the connection of red to communism, but<br />
as a corruption of the Russian word for ‘beautiful’,<br />
which is close to the word for red. Seeing it in<br />
the flesh, it’s easy to see why it was originally<br />
described as beautiful. With the Kremlin on one<br />
side and the chocolate box St Basil’s cathedral at<br />
the far end, this is one of the most impressive<br />
vistas in the world.<br />
MARRIOTT TVERSKAYA, MOSCOW<br />
Good value accommodation in Moscow is<br />
hard to come by, as the city is so popular with<br />
business travellers. The Marriott Tverskaya, whilst<br />
not especially characterful offers some great value<br />
over the weekend period. Conveniently located<br />
on Moscow’s famous Tverskaya Boulevard, Red<br />
Square and the Kremlin are around twenty<br />
minutes walk away. The 118 rooms are well<br />
appointed, and service is efficient and attentive.<br />
There’s a good quality restaurant on site,<br />
alternatively there are a range of restaurants in<br />
the immediate vicinity.<br />
Metro station, Moscow<br />
The Golden Ring<br />
Scattered amidst the plains, lakes and marshes<br />
northeast of Moscow are a collection of ancient<br />
Russian towns known collectively as the Golden<br />
Ring. This region played a significant role in the<br />
early days of the Russian state, and the splendid<br />
churches, monasteries and kremlins (city forts)<br />
that remain provide a wonderful architectural<br />
chronicle of this period. One of our favourite<br />
Golden Ring towns is the picturesque riverside<br />
town of Suzdal. Blessedly escaping much of the<br />
development that has blighted other Russian<br />
regions, the tranquil collection of wooden<br />
cottages, churches and monasteries makes this a<br />
delightful place to experience the atmosphere of<br />
pre-Soviet Russia. Suzdal can be visited as a (long)<br />
day trip from Moscow, or as part of a few days<br />
exploring more of the Golden Ring.<br />
Kamchatka<br />
Kamchatka – the Land of Fire and Ice – an apt<br />
title for one of the world’s most remote,<br />
forbidding yet spectacular destinations. This<br />
volcano-spined peninsula, jutting into the icy<br />
Bering Sea in Russia’s Far East, is home to hardy<br />
reindeer-herding peoples, huge grizzly bears and<br />
Steller’s Sea Eagle, all set to a seething backdrop<br />
of boiling hot springs and spouting geysers.<br />
With infrastructure limited, many destinations<br />
are accessible only by helicopter, making this a
Wooden house detail, Suzdal<br />
Monastery, Solovetsky Islands<br />
Babushka, Suzdal<br />
more expensive but infinitely fascinating region<br />
for the adventurous traveller. Flights from<br />
Moscow cross Siberia to distant Petropavlosk,<br />
from where the adventure begins by helicopter,<br />
boat or six-wheel drive truck. Kamchatka’s harsh<br />
climate makes June to September the best time<br />
to travel to this region.<br />
Solovetsky Islands<br />
In the far north of Russia, just shy of the Arctic<br />
Circle are the remote and beautiful Solovetski<br />
Islands. Home to a monastery since the<br />
15th century, the islands are a testament to<br />
human endurance, as well as human suffering.<br />
The monks who originally populated the islands<br />
overcame the harsh environment to establish one<br />
of the most important and richest monasteries<br />
in Russia. After the revolution, it became a<br />
notorious prison camp, with forced labourers<br />
being incarcerated in tortuous conditions.<br />
Recently re-established as a working monastery,<br />
the islands exude peace, and despite their grim<br />
history, feel like a special, spiritual place. Visitors<br />
can also relax, explore the islands by bike, go<br />
whale-watching, and enjoy being in a unique,<br />
unspoilt setting that few westerners experience.<br />
A trip here can easily be combined with a visit<br />
to Moscow and St Petersburg.<br />
Reindeer herd, Kamchatka<br />
The Three Capitals<br />
A trip to Kiev in Ukraine, Moscow and<br />
St Petersburg is to venture right through the<br />
history of the Russian peoples, visiting three<br />
contrasting capitals. Kiev, the modern-day<br />
Ukrainian capital was established sometime<br />
in the 6th century. Back then it was the<br />
ancient capital of the so called Rus (early<br />
Russians), who were most likely descended<br />
from Viking traders.<br />
In the 15th century, it was Moscow that<br />
emerged as the strongest regional power,<br />
defeating the descendents of Ghengis Khan,<br />
who had overrun the whole region. Rulers<br />
such as Ivan the Terrible expanded Russian<br />
territory and built iconic buildings like the<br />
Kremlin and St Basil’s cathedral. In 1703,<br />
Peter the Great founded the city of St<br />
Petersburg as his modern ‘window on the<br />
west’, making it his capital. From here a<br />
succession of Romanovs further expanded<br />
Russia into a huge empire, turning it into a<br />
major world power and financing the building<br />
of countless grand palaces, churches and<br />
monuments. In 1918 Lenin moved the capital<br />
back to Moscow, fearing a German assault<br />
on St Petersburg. Moscow has been the<br />
capital of Russia ever since.<br />
Kremlin, Moscow<br />
Caves Monastery, Kiev<br />
www.audleytravel.com/russia ● 01993 838 230 ● Russia 77
St Petersburg<br />
RUSSIA<br />
Moscow<br />
BELARUS<br />
Kremlin and Moscow skyline<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Russia specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 230<br />
Getting around<br />
With regular scheduled flights linking the UK<br />
with Moscow and St Petersburg in less than four<br />
hours, getting to Russia is simplicity itself. Once on<br />
the ground we can provide guidance to help you<br />
explore under your own steam, or alternatively<br />
we can arrange walking tours within the cities or<br />
private cars for journeys into the countryside. The<br />
efficient rail network is best for longer journeys –<br />
and certainly between St Petersburg and Moscow,<br />
this is a better option than flying. For those<br />
heading out east the great Trans-Siberian railway<br />
can be undertaken in its entirety, or alternatively<br />
experienced in sections, with domestic flights used<br />
to cover the great distances quickly and efficiently.<br />
Boarding a train, Siberia<br />
78<br />
Wooden House, Irkutsk<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✓ ✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Summer, with its long, light evenings and balmy<br />
temperatures, is the classic time to visit these<br />
northerly climes. However, we would suggest the<br />
autumn months of September and early October<br />
as being a great time to visit – the weather is not<br />
yet cold, and sites less busy. Winter is also a<br />
much underrated time. If you can bear the<br />
freezing temperatures, you will be rewarded with<br />
wonderful snowy vistas, reduced prices, and far<br />
fewer visitors.<br />
Time difference: GMT+3 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 4 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />
prices for your trip to Russia on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Classic Russia<br />
Moscow and St Petersburg are must-sees for any<br />
first time visitor to Russia. Moscow has a real buzz<br />
and swagger about it, while St Petersburg is a little<br />
more refined and aristocratic. Taking the train<br />
between the two cities is a good option, with<br />
overnight or day trains available.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Fly from the UK to Moscow.<br />
See Red Square and the Kremlin,<br />
travelling by Moscow’s ornate<br />
metro system.<br />
Continue to explore Moscow,<br />
taking in Novodevichy convent.<br />
Have more time in Moscow,<br />
exploring some of the many world<br />
class museums, before taking a train<br />
to St Petersburg – day trains or<br />
overnight trains are available.<br />
Start exploring St Petersburg, with<br />
a guided tour of the Hermitage in<br />
the afternoon.<br />
A day at leisure to continue exploring<br />
the city, perhaps visiting the Russian<br />
museum, or take a stroll along the<br />
city’s beautiful canals.<br />
A further day to either see the palace<br />
of Peterhof, or drink in more of the<br />
beautiful city centre.<br />
Visit the Summer Palace of<br />
Catherine the Great, before flying<br />
back to London.<br />
Stay longer<br />
You can easily spend a day or two more in<br />
St Petersburg. Alternatively, the Baltic capitals<br />
of Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius can be visited as part<br />
of a trip to the region.<br />
Fountains, Peterhof Summer Palace
Suggested itineraries<br />
St Petersburg<br />
St Petersburg<br />
ESTONIA<br />
St Petersburg<br />
LATVIA<br />
RUSSIA<br />
RUSSIA<br />
Kostroma<br />
Yaroslavl<br />
LITHUANIA<br />
Moscow<br />
Moscow<br />
Sergiev<br />
Posad<br />
Suzdal<br />
Sergiev Posad<br />
Moscow<br />
Suzdal<br />
BELARUS<br />
RUSSIA<br />
BELARUS<br />
BELARUS<br />
Kiev<br />
UKRAINE<br />
Moscow, St Petersburg and<br />
the Golden Ring<br />
As well as taking in the main highlights of Moscow<br />
and St Petersburg, this itinerary also includes time<br />
spent in the historic Golden Ring towns of Vladimir<br />
and Suzdal. These towns offer a glimpse of a<br />
slower pace of life and affords the opportunity to<br />
view some of the world’s most sumptuous and<br />
ornate Orthodox churches and cathedrals, many<br />
of which have been awarded UNESCO status.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Fly to Moscow.<br />
Take a walking tour of the Kremlin<br />
complex.<br />
Explore Moscow under your own<br />
steam, perhaps visiting the Tretyakov<br />
gallery, the country’s most important<br />
gallery for Russian art.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> out of the city to the pretty<br />
town of Suzdal via Vladimir.<br />
Half day guided tour of Suzdal and its<br />
pretty wooden buildings.<br />
Return to Moscow in time for an<br />
overnight sleeper train to<br />
St Petersburg.<br />
Arrive in St Petersburg in the<br />
morning, with the rest of the day<br />
at leisure.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> out to the spectacular Palace<br />
of Peter the Great by hydrofoil.<br />
Morning tour of the Hermitage.<br />
Visit the Summer Palace of<br />
Catherine the Great before flying<br />
back to London.<br />
Stay longer<br />
You can easily spend a day or two more in<br />
St Petersburg. There are also many other historic<br />
Golden Ring towns that could be visited as part<br />
of this trip, such as Yaroslavl.<br />
Historic Russia<br />
This itinerary is perfect for those looking to delve a<br />
little deeper into Russia’s history. Starting in<br />
Moscow, you’ll then move on to the Golden Ring<br />
towns that surround the capital – historic, pretty<br />
places, many of which predate Moscow.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Fly from the UK to Moscow.<br />
Take a walking tour of the Kremlin<br />
and Novodevichy Convent.<br />
Day at leisure to continue exploring<br />
Moscow, perhaps taking in some of<br />
Moscow’s world-class museums.<br />
Leave Moscow and head to Suzdal,<br />
stopping at the historic city of<br />
Vladimir enroute.<br />
A half day tour of Suzdal, with the<br />
afternoon at leisure.<br />
Drive on to Yaroslavl, passing<br />
through Kostroma on the way.<br />
See the highlights of Yaroslavl,<br />
including the Church of Elijah the<br />
Prophet with its beautifully<br />
preserved frescoes.<br />
Return to Moscow via the town of<br />
Rostov and the monastery of Sergiev<br />
Posad. In the evening fly back to<br />
the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
An additional night in Moscow at the end would<br />
make for a more relaxing itinerary. St Petersburg<br />
could easily be added at the end of the trip<br />
as well.<br />
The Three Capitals<br />
A great introduction to the culture and history of<br />
the Ukraine and Russia, this 10 day itinerary covers<br />
the three major cities – Kiev, Moscow and St.<br />
Petersburg. You start in Kiev – the ancient capital<br />
of the Kievan Rus and mother of all Russian cities,<br />
and continue to explore the historical sites of<br />
Moscow – the communist powerhouse, finishing<br />
your journey in St Petersburg – Russia’s ‘window<br />
to the west’.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Fly from the UK to Kiev.<br />
Take an introductory tour of the city,<br />
including St Sophia’s Cathedral and<br />
the Caves Monastery.<br />
A further day to explore Kiev. In the<br />
evening take an overnight train to<br />
Moscow.<br />
Enjoy a walking tour of Red Square,<br />
the Kremlin and the Armoury. The<br />
afternoon is at leisure to explore.<br />
See the Novodevichy convent and<br />
cemetery – burial place of many<br />
famous Russians.<br />
A day at leisure to explore Moscow<br />
under your own steam.<br />
Take an afternoon train to<br />
St Petersburg.<br />
Have an introductory tour of<br />
St Petersburg, including a visit to the<br />
Peter and Paul fortress, where the<br />
city was founded.<br />
See the treasures of the Hermitage.<br />
Visit the Summer Palace of<br />
Catherine the Great before flying<br />
back to London.<br />
Stay longer<br />
You can easily spend a day or two more in<br />
St Petersburg. Alternatively, the Baltic capitals of<br />
Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius can be visited as part of<br />
a trip to the region.<br />
Monk and church goer, Moscow<br />
www.audleytravel.com/russia ● 01993 838 230 ● Russia 79
The Trans-Siberian Railway<br />
Trans-Siberian train, Lake Baikal<br />
The Trans-Siberian is one of the world’s truly<br />
great journeys. Crossing eight time zones and<br />
stretching for 9,340 kilometres, the railway is<br />
what stitches the largest country in the world<br />
together – for some stretches in Siberia there<br />
are no roads between settlements, just the<br />
railway line.<br />
The routes<br />
It’s important to stress that the Trans-Siberian<br />
refers not to a particular train, but to a series of<br />
routes. There are three routes that can be taken,<br />
all of which can be done in either direction.<br />
The classic Trans-Siberian route stretches from<br />
Moscow to Vladivostok, on Russia’s Pacific coast.<br />
This is the purist’s choice since this is the only<br />
route that truly does cross Siberia completely.<br />
On the downside, it is scenically and culturally<br />
less varied, though taking this route opens up<br />
the possibility of continuing by ferry (or plane)<br />
to Japan.<br />
The most popular route is the Trans-Mongolian.<br />
Cutting south from Siberia, the line runs through<br />
Mongolia and the Gobi desert, before finishing<br />
up in Beijing. Following this route really gives<br />
you the experience of crossing continents and<br />
of travelling from west to east (or vice versa).<br />
It is also scenically more varied, crossing the<br />
Mongolian steppe, the Gobi desert and even<br />
the Great Wall at one point.<br />
The lesser known Trans-Manchurian route<br />
bypasses Mongolia, cutting down through<br />
Manchuria, a part of China.<br />
When to Go<br />
May to September is the best time of year to<br />
tackle the Trans-Siberian, when the weather<br />
in all countries along the way isn’t too cold.<br />
The optimum time to travel is mid-August to<br />
mid-September, when the weather in Beijing<br />
is especially clear.<br />
The Public Trains<br />
These are working trains that criss-cross Russia,<br />
Mongolia and China. On board, there are two<br />
or four berth sleeping compartments, with a<br />
toilet and washbasin at each end of the carriage.<br />
There are no shower facilities available. All trains<br />
have a restaurant car which serves breakfast,<br />
lunch and dinner – quality is not bad, though<br />
don’t expect gourmet cuisine!<br />
Private Trains<br />
There are several private trains which cover<br />
the routes. While these are perhaps a less<br />
‘authentic’ and adventurous way of doing the<br />
trip, they are generally more comfortable –<br />
there are showers on board, and some cabins<br />
are en suite. Food is all served on board and<br />
is generally of a high quality. Departures are<br />
available from Moscow through to Beijing or<br />
through to Vladivostok and vice versa.<br />
Tsar’s Gold dining car<br />
Tsar’s Gold<br />
The private Tsar’s Gold train is one of the<br />
more comfortable ways to travel along the<br />
Trans-Siberian. There are a range of cabins,<br />
some of which have en suite facilities. Cabins<br />
which are not en suite have access to a<br />
shower and washing facilities, unlike the<br />
public trains, and the food served in the<br />
convivial restaurant car is of a high standard.<br />
Days on board can be spent taking in the<br />
scenery or enjoying a variety of lectures and<br />
talks from learned speakers as you cross the<br />
great expanses of Siberia. The train operates<br />
a number of set itineraries from Moscow to<br />
Beijing (or vice versa), via Mongolia, stopping<br />
at many of the fascinating and beautiful<br />
destinations along the way. The wide choice<br />
of cabins means this is an option to suit a<br />
range of budgets.<br />
80
Where to stop<br />
It is possible to take a train non-stop from<br />
Moscow to Beijing or Vladivostok (or vice versa),<br />
but we wouldn’t recommend it – spending six<br />
continuous days on the train is liable to lead<br />
to cabin fever!<br />
Ekaterinburg<br />
1,770 kilometres from Moscow<br />
Capital of the Urals, Ekaterinburg is a town with<br />
something of a grisly history. It was here that<br />
the last Tsar Nicholas II was murdered, along<br />
with his wife, their five children, their doctor<br />
and three of their servants. The city also marks<br />
the ‘border’ between Europe and Asia.<br />
Irkutsk and Lake Baikal<br />
5,210 kilometres from Moscow<br />
Established in 1651, Irkutsk grew to become<br />
the administrative and cultural centre of Siberia,<br />
and has interesting small museums, a charming<br />
riverside setting, and many fine examples of<br />
traditional Russian wooden architecture. Around<br />
an hour from Irkutsk is Lake Baikal, the ‘Pearl of<br />
Siberia’. This is a place of breathtaking beauty<br />
and mind-boggling statistics: at 1,637 metres it is<br />
the world’s deepest lake, containing an incredible<br />
fifth of the world’s fresh water resources.<br />
Carriage attendents<br />
Ger tent, Mongolia<br />
Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia<br />
6,340 kilometres from Moscow<br />
The capital of Mongolia is not the prettiest city<br />
in the world, but it can be used as a base to see<br />
some of the surrounding countryside, and to get<br />
a small taste of the traditional nomadic way of<br />
life. There are national parks within easy reach<br />
which can be visited as a day trip, or where you<br />
can stay for a night in a traditional ger tent – a<br />
memorable experience. See page 82 for more<br />
information about Mongolia.<br />
Beijing, China<br />
7,900 kilometres from Moscow<br />
To truly experience the Chinese capital, we’d<br />
suggest a stay of at least four days to allow<br />
sufficient time to see The Forbidden City, The<br />
Great Wall as well as the other key sights. For<br />
more about Beijing, see page 12.<br />
Vladivostok<br />
9,340 kilometres from Moscow<br />
At the end of the classic route, the longest<br />
continuous railroad in the world, is Vladivostok.<br />
A bustling port home to the Russian Pacific fleet,<br />
it’s a pleasant city spread across a series of<br />
peaks, peninsulas, and islands.<br />
Train driver<br />
Classic Trans-Siberian<br />
Spanning eight time zones, this epic itinerary is ideal<br />
for those looking for a real adventure through some<br />
of the world’s most fascinating countries. Taking in<br />
the highlights of all that the Trans Mongolian branch<br />
of this journey has to offer the itinerary begins in<br />
Beijing and travels westbound through Mongolia and<br />
Siberian Russia to Moscow.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Fly to Beijing.<br />
See The Forbidden City and<br />
Tiananmen Square.<br />
Leave the city for the day to see the<br />
Great Wall.<br />
Visit the Temple of Heaven and<br />
Summer Palace.<br />
Board your train to Mongolia.<br />
Arriving into Mongolia in the afternoon,<br />
head out of the city to Khustai Nuruu<br />
National Park.<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Enjoy the park before returning to<br />
Ulaan Baatar.<br />
Morning tour of the city. In the<br />
afternoon board the train to Irkutsk.<br />
Arrive in Irkutsk and transfer to<br />
Lake Baikal.<br />
At leisure to enjoy the lake.<br />
Transfer back to Irkutsk for the<br />
afternoon train to Moscow.<br />
Days 12-13 On board the train.<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Day 16<br />
Arrive into Moscow.<br />
Walking tour of the Kremlin.<br />
Return flight back to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
It’s easy to spend an extra day or two in Moscow,<br />
and you could also continue on to St Petersburg.<br />
The city of Ekaterinburg makes for an interesting<br />
additional stop.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/russia ● 01993 838 230 ● Russia 81
Mongolia<br />
Mongolia, the ‘Land of Blue Sky’, was<br />
home to one of the largest empires<br />
the world has ever known, the Ghengis<br />
Khan-ruled Mongol empire of the 13th<br />
century. Today it is undoubtedly Asia’s last<br />
undiscovered wilderness. Awesome expanses<br />
of rolling steppe, home to Mongolia’s famous<br />
horses and herdsmen, meet high glacier clad<br />
mountains, impenetrable forests and deep,<br />
crystal lakes. To the south the great Gobi<br />
Desert stretches to the horizon; empty save<br />
for deep canyons and sweeping dunes – one<br />
of the least populated regions on earth.<br />
Across much of this vast land, the nomadic<br />
lifestyle has remained unchanged since the<br />
days of Genghis Khan. These days, modern<br />
life is starting to encroach, and a series of<br />
harsh winters has made nomadic life<br />
increasingly difficult. Nevertheless, around<br />
half of Mongolia's population still live in<br />
the traditional way, and if you venture<br />
beyond the capital you will be bound to<br />
encounter them. A visit here is truly beyond<br />
imagination, from the magnificent spectacle<br />
of the country’s annual Naadam Festival to<br />
the unspoilt, breathtaking natural beauty<br />
that awaits at every turn.<br />
82
<strong>Audley</strong> in Mongolia<br />
1 The Gandan Monastery,<br />
Ulaan Baatar<br />
One of the most important<br />
working monasteries in<br />
Mongolia, Gandan Khiid is<br />
home to an increasingly active<br />
community of Buddhist monks<br />
who live and study within the<br />
monastery grounds.<br />
2 The Gobi<br />
A vast and beautiful section<br />
of the country with stunning<br />
scenery including the<br />
magnificent ‘singing’ sand<br />
dunes at Khongoryn Els.<br />
5<br />
5 Karakorum<br />
Once the political and cultural<br />
capital of the Mongol empire,<br />
Karakorum still holds enormous<br />
significance for many Mongolians<br />
and is home to the country’s<br />
first Buddhist Monastery,<br />
Erdene Zuu.<br />
Stay in a traditional<br />
Mongolian Ger<br />
At the heart of Mongolia’s<br />
nomadic lifestyle, a stay in a<br />
traditional ger or tented<br />
dwelling is often the highlight<br />
of a trip to the country.<br />
4<br />
Takhi Horse, Khustai National Park<br />
3<br />
1<br />
2<br />
The Nadaam Festival<br />
The highlight of the year for<br />
all Mongolians, Nadaam<br />
celebrates the three ‘manly’<br />
sports of wrestling, archery<br />
and horse racing.<br />
Nomadic life<br />
Meeting a Mongolian family in<br />
their ger home is the only true<br />
way to understand this very<br />
different way of life.<br />
Nomad outside his ger<br />
The great expanses of Mongolia offer<br />
incredible opportunities to explore one of<br />
the world’s last true wildernesses. This is a<br />
land three times the size of France with a<br />
population less than that of Wales. The<br />
Mongols are naturally a nomadic people, and<br />
it was only during the Communist years of<br />
the 20th century that urbanisation began in<br />
earnest. Over a third of the population now<br />
lives in the capital, Ulaan Baatar, the political<br />
and cultural hub for the region and entry<br />
and exit point for those visiting the country.<br />
We suggest getting out of the capital and<br />
seeing some of the countryside. With such<br />
vast distances, you inevitably spend a large<br />
amount of your time travelling, but we know<br />
which routes work best, and have the most<br />
spectacular scenery. With no direct flights<br />
from the UK, connecting flights via Beijing or<br />
Seoul are the most convenient and frequent<br />
option, while a slower but more atmospheric<br />
journey brings you to Ulaan Baatar on the<br />
famous Trans-Siberian railway.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Mongolia’s capital Ulaan Baatar offers a<br />
range of modern, international hotels with<br />
standards approaching those of more<br />
developed nations. Head beyond the city,<br />
however, and the lack of developed<br />
infrastructure means camping in traditional<br />
nomadic gers (traditional felt yurt tents)<br />
is often the only option. These are cosy<br />
and offer a true Mongolian style of<br />
accommodation, giving you an insight into<br />
the Nomadic way of life. Most popular<br />
destinations offer semi-permanent<br />
encampments with modern facilities, though<br />
the further you venture off the beaten track<br />
the more basic conditions become.<br />
Find out more<br />
Gers on the steppe<br />
3 Yol Am Canyon<br />
A striking gorge deep in the<br />
desert, remarkable for the<br />
microclimate that its<br />
presence creates.<br />
4 Khustai National Park<br />
See the world’s last surviving<br />
species of wild horse in this<br />
beautiful and easily accessible<br />
national park.<br />
Herdsman with his charges<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Mongolia, please<br />
see page 86.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Mongolia<br />
specialists 01993 838 225<br />
Mongolia 83
Khongoryn Els, Gobi Desert<br />
Ulaan Baatar and around<br />
As urban capital of a nomadic nation Ulaan Baatar<br />
is something of a paradox, but with the modern<br />
world rapidly sweeping away the monolithic<br />
remnants of the Soviet era the city has become<br />
a forward-looking, if laid-back, base from which<br />
to explore this remarkable country. A number of<br />
impressive and atmospheric sights are dotted<br />
around the town, including Mongolia’s largest<br />
Buddhist Monastery, the Gandan Khiid, and the<br />
extraordinary Winter Palace of Bogd Khaan.<br />
For those with a little more time to explore the<br />
surrounding area we thoroughly recommend<br />
sampling the wonders of Mongolia’s natural<br />
heritage and traditional hospitality with an<br />
overnight visit to the beautiful Khustai National<br />
Park, just a couple of hours’ drive west of the city.<br />
Here you can see the Takhi, Mongolia’s rare and<br />
much-loved wild horses which had become<br />
extinct in the wild until they were reintroduced<br />
using stock from foreign zoos in the 1990s. This<br />
is also an ideal opportunity to spend a night in a<br />
traditional nomadic felt tent or ‘ger’, a surprisingly<br />
comfortable form of accommodation.<br />
Gobi and the South<br />
The great Gobi Desert stretches across much<br />
of southern Mongolia and its border with<br />
neighbouring China, ranging from the towering<br />
sand dunes at Khongoryn Els to more forgiving<br />
terrain home to numerous herds of gazelle and<br />
camel. The Flaming Cliffs of Bayanzag, a stunning<br />
natural formation which glow with the intensity<br />
of fire, are a must see. Also nearby is the<br />
extraordinary Yol Am Canyon, a series of gorges<br />
so sheer that thick ice remains in their depths<br />
throughout the scorching summer months. The<br />
area has regular flight connections with the capital<br />
or can be visited as part of an overland journey<br />
to Karakorum and beyond.<br />
Wrestlers, Naadam festival<br />
The Nadaam festival<br />
The annual gathering of the tribes at<br />
the great Naadam Festival dates back to<br />
the times of Genghis Khan and gives the<br />
menfolk, once the most feared warriors<br />
on the planet, the opportunity to<br />
demonstrate their considerable prowess<br />
in the ‘Three Manly Sports’ of wrestling,<br />
archery and horse racing. Even if the<br />
sports do not appeal, this is the biggest<br />
event in the Mongolian calendar and<br />
the colourful crowds and general<br />
atmosphere of excitement make it a<br />
fine focus for a visit to the country.<br />
Festivals throughout the country run<br />
annually from the 10th to the 13th July<br />
and attract visitors from across the<br />
globe – accommodation can be scarce<br />
so it is worth booking well in advance.<br />
84<br />
Gandan Khiid, Ulaan Baatar
Ger tent<br />
Mongolian children near Lake Khuvsgul<br />
Horses grazing, Lake Khuvsgul<br />
Karakorum<br />
In 1220 Genghis Khan chose to move his capital<br />
west from Khentii to Karakorum. Though the city<br />
was not completed until after his death it was, for<br />
a time, the political, economic and cultural centre<br />
of the vast Mongol Empire, housing great palaces,<br />
mosques, churches and monasteries representing<br />
many of the world’s religions. Barely a stone of<br />
the original Empire now remains, but the sense<br />
of history is palpable, and the nearby Erdene Zuu<br />
Khiid, the oldest Buddhist monastery in Mongolia,<br />
offers a reminder of the region’s glorious past.<br />
Khuvsgul and the north<br />
Mongolia’s northernmost province, hugging the<br />
border of Siberia, is perhaps its wildest and most<br />
beautiful: high mountains, great forests of pine and<br />
larch, lush grazing meadows, and crystal streams<br />
and lakes teeming with fish. In the heart of the<br />
province is the sublime alpine scenery of Lake<br />
Khuvsgul, the deepest lake in Central Asia and<br />
surrounded by woodland alive with bear, moose<br />
and ibex. This is Mongolia’s finest natural<br />
attraction, now protected as part of the Khuvsgul<br />
National Park, offering wonderful opportunities<br />
for boating, horse riding, fishing and hiking. The<br />
region is reached by plane from Ulaan Baatar via<br />
the provincial capital, Mörön, from where it’s a<br />
rough 100 kilometre drive to Khatgal, the town at<br />
the southern tip of the lake.<br />
Erdene Zuu Khiid, Karakorum<br />
Ger camps<br />
Despite the Soviet occupation of Mongolia<br />
the traditional nomadic way of life has<br />
survived remarkably intact, with about half<br />
the population still making their homes<br />
outside of the main cities in traditional<br />
encampments. As such, the ger has remained<br />
at the centre of Mongolian family life and<br />
often houses several generations of family,<br />
along with all of their possessions.<br />
Lightweight and well insulated this<br />
remarkable home can be quickly dismantled,<br />
packed away and moved to better grazing<br />
lands as and when seasons change.<br />
Generally visitors to Mongolia who travel<br />
outside of the capital stay in larger ger camps<br />
which offer the opportunity to experience<br />
Inside a ger tent<br />
Nomadic children outside their ger<br />
nomadic living. Facilities usually include shared<br />
toilets and showers. Individual gers are kitted<br />
out cosily with two, three or four wooden<br />
beds with bedding, a small table and chairs.<br />
These traditional nomadic tents are<br />
remarkably warm and weatherproof, with<br />
the felt walls providing excellent insulation<br />
against outside elements.<br />
The ger is heated by a central wood-burning<br />
stove, which will be started for you each<br />
evening and can be replenished on request.<br />
Camps generally have a personable<br />
restaurant, where long evenings can be spent<br />
enjoying the nomadic atmosphere and<br />
listening to stories from fellow travellers or<br />
the local people.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/mongolia ● 01993 838 225 ● Mongolia 85
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Mongolia specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 225<br />
Getting around<br />
With no direct flights from the UK, connecting<br />
flights via Beijing or Seoul are the most<br />
convenient and frequent option, while a slower<br />
but more atmospheric journey brings you to<br />
Ulaan Baatar on the famous Trans-Siberian<br />
railway, offering the ideal opportunity to<br />
disembark and explore the city and beyond.<br />
Flights radiate from the capital to the provinces<br />
(aimags), which cut down on some of the vast<br />
distances. Much of the infrastructure beyond the<br />
capital is very basic, so we suggest travelling by<br />
private jeep with a guide, which allows you to<br />
stop and meet any locals you might come across,<br />
whilst travelling in as much comfort as possible.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✕ ✕ ~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✕ ✕<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Mongolia’s landlocked location gives rise to an<br />
extreme continental climate, giving an average of<br />
260 sunny days a year, but with wide variations in<br />
temperature between summer and winter. Ulaan<br />
Baatar is the world’s coldest capital, and across<br />
the country winter temperatures regularly drop<br />
to -30C and below. Only the southern Gobi is<br />
truly hot in the summer months, though this is<br />
also when the little rain that does fall each year<br />
is most likely. Given the severity of the winter<br />
months travel beyond Ulaan Baatar is only really<br />
feasible during the warmer months between<br />
May and October.<br />
Time difference: GMT+8 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 13 hours, with an overnight<br />
stop in Beijing usually required.<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />
prices for your trip to Mongolia on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to<br />
discuss your plans.<br />
86<br />
Mongolia uncovered<br />
A fantastic itinerary which makes for a perfect<br />
introduction to this fantastic country. Beginning in<br />
Ulaan Bataar you explore some of the main sights<br />
before taking a spectacular flight south to the Gobi,<br />
home to dinosaur fossils, singing sand dunes and<br />
vast panoramas. After some time spent exploring<br />
here you drive back up towards the capital taking<br />
in the ancient city of Karakorum and the famed<br />
Khustaii National Park, home to the last surviving<br />
pre historic horse species, the Takhi.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Karakorum<br />
Ongi Khiid<br />
Khongoryn Els<br />
CHINA<br />
MONGOLIA<br />
Khustaii<br />
National Park<br />
Yol Am<br />
Bayanzag<br />
Fly to Beijing overnight.<br />
Transfer to your hotel with a day<br />
to explore Beijing or relax.<br />
Fly to Ulaan Bataar. Explore the<br />
Museum of Mongolian National<br />
History.<br />
Full day city tour with the afternoon<br />
at the Winter Palace.<br />
Fly south to the Gobi, see the<br />
Flaming Cliffs at Bayanzag.<br />
See Yol Am, known as a wonderful<br />
spot to view eagles and other wildlife.<br />
Drive across the desert to the<br />
‘Singing’ sand dunes at Khongoryn Els.<br />
Drive to Ongi Khiid, home to some<br />
interesting monastery ruins.<br />
Continue to the ancient Mongolian<br />
capital of Karakorum.<br />
Explore the monastery of Erdene<br />
Zuu, before continuing on to Khustaii<br />
National Park.<br />
Continue back to Ulaan Baatar via<br />
the monastery ruins at Manzushir.<br />
Fly back to Beijing with an afternoon<br />
at leisure.<br />
Fly back to the UK.<br />
RUSSIA<br />
Gobi desert<br />
Ulaan Baatar<br />
Lake Khuvsgul<br />
Land of Blue Sky<br />
A comprehensive itinerary which sees you visit<br />
many of the scenic highlights of this vast country.<br />
You drive out to the west of the country, seeing<br />
the Takhi horses in Khustaii National Park before<br />
heading up to pretty Lake Khuvsgul. From there<br />
you’ll fly down to the Gobi to witness a completely<br />
contrasting landscape, before<br />
returning to the capital Ulaan Baatar.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Days 9-10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Fly to Beijing overnight.<br />
Have the day to relax or<br />
explore Beijing.<br />
Fly to Ulaan Bataar. Explore the<br />
Museum of Mongolian National<br />
History.<br />
Full day city tour with the afternoon<br />
at the Winter Palace.<br />
Drive out from Ulaan Bataar to<br />
Khustaii National Park.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> on to Karakorum<br />
Continue on to Khorgo<br />
National Park.<br />
Your journey continues as you travel<br />
on into the Tsenkher Valley.<br />
Drive on to White Lake and spend<br />
time at the lake.<br />
Continue north to the hot spring<br />
town of Jargalant.<br />
Drive on to the ancient deer stones<br />
at Uushigiin Uver.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> up to the magnificent Lake<br />
Khuvsgul, via the provincial capital<br />
of Moron.<br />
Days 14-15 Time to relax and explore the sights<br />
in and around the lake.<br />
Day 16<br />
Day 17<br />
Day 18<br />
Day 19<br />
Day 20<br />
Day 21<br />
Day 22<br />
Karakorum<br />
Khongoryn Els<br />
Moron<br />
Khorgo and White Lake<br />
CHINA<br />
Khustaii<br />
National Park<br />
MONGOLIA<br />
Bayanzag<br />
Yol Am<br />
Fly back to the capital.<br />
Fly down to the Gobi National Park.<br />
In the evening visit the ‘Flaming Cliffs’<br />
at Bayanzag.<br />
Drive across the desert to the<br />
‘singing’ sand dunes at Khongoryn Els.<br />
Take in the ‘Eagle’ Canyon at Yol Am.<br />
Fly back to Ulaan Bataar where the<br />
rest of your day is spent at leisure.<br />
Fly back to Beijing.<br />
RUSSIA<br />
Gobi desert<br />
Return flight to the UK.<br />
Ulaan Baatar
Useful information<br />
St Basil’s, Cathedral, Moscow Local men, Kashgar, Silk Route Rural scene, China<br />
Contact us<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong>, New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney,<br />
Oxfordshire, OX29 9SX.<br />
nca@audleytravel.com<br />
Useful telephone numbers:<br />
China: 01993 838 220<br />
Tibet: 01993 838 215<br />
Taiwan: 01993 838 260<br />
The Silk Route: 01993 838 205<br />
Iran: 01993 838 265<br />
Ukraine: 01993 838 245<br />
Russia: 01993 838 230<br />
Mongolia: 01993 838 225<br />
Terms & Conditions and<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> Insurance<br />
Your booking is subject to the Terms and<br />
Conditions of <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong>, which we will<br />
include with your personalised itinerary and can<br />
also be found on our website. It is vital that you<br />
have adequate travel insurance and we are able<br />
to suggest a number of policies either for the<br />
duration of your trip or on an annual basis.<br />
Group <strong>Travel</strong><br />
In addition to our tailor-made tours, we offer a<br />
small programme of guided small group tours,<br />
typically no more than 16 travellers. Not only<br />
does this make for a much more sociable group<br />
but it also enables us to use smaller and more<br />
characterful accommodation and venture away<br />
from the large tour groups. We offer regular<br />
tours to several countries in this brochure which<br />
have become very popular and are an alternative<br />
to a tailor-made itinerary.<br />
We can also arrange private tours, whether this is<br />
for a group of friends, those with a special interest<br />
or a fundraising trip for charity. For larger groups<br />
we may be able to offer discounts or a free place<br />
to the organiser. See our website or call us to<br />
discuss your plans.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/groups<br />
Honeymoons<br />
A honeymoon to Russia, China or Central Asia<br />
would make for a memorable trip. For most<br />
destinations, it’s possible to combine some of<br />
the cultural highlights with time to relax. China<br />
in particular has an increasing number of good<br />
quality resorts in a variety of locations. The<br />
beaches of Southeast Asia are also easily<br />
combined with a trip to this region.<br />
Flights<br />
There are a variety of airlines that fly directly to<br />
China, Russia and Central Asia from London<br />
Heathrow, with British Airways currently offering<br />
the greatest coverage. We choose from these<br />
airlines based on current airfares and taxes,<br />
your preference for travel and your itinerary.<br />
Connecting flights from regional UK airports can<br />
also be arranged. There are also several airlines<br />
which fly indirectly to many destinations via<br />
European cities, which often offer convenient<br />
connections from regional airports.<br />
AITO Membership<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> is a member of the<br />
Association of Independent Tour<br />
Operators. The Association<br />
represents Britain’s leading independent tour<br />
operators and encourages high standards of<br />
quality and service. <strong>Audley</strong> abides by the<br />
Association’s Code of Conduct and adheres<br />
to the AITO Quality Charter which can be<br />
viewed on www.aito.com.<br />
Photography in this brochure<br />
We would like to thank the following<br />
photographers for the images used in this<br />
brochure: Peter Branch, Bill Hobdell, Steve Allen,<br />
Jamie Marshall, Simon Spicknell, Lee Dalton,<br />
Simon Irwin, Alamy, Lonely Planet Images,<br />
ASLA <strong>Travel</strong> Group, AWL Images, Tips Images,<br />
Istockphoto, Taiwan Tourist Board, and<br />
members of the <strong>Audley</strong> China, Russia and<br />
Central Asia team.<br />
All images used in this brochure were obtained<br />
in good faith by <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Group Limited<br />
and in the belief that all necessary consents and<br />
clearances were obtained for their use. However,<br />
if you believe that unauthorised use has been<br />
made of an image belonging to you please<br />
contact us on 01993 838 040.<br />
Visit our offices<br />
If you would like to discuss your<br />
travel arrangements in person we<br />
welcome personal visits, please<br />
call in advance to arrange an<br />
appointment with one or more of<br />
our country specialists. Our offices<br />
are at the New Mill, a 17th century<br />
converted wool mill on the outskirts<br />
of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford<br />
on the edge of the Cotswolds.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/visit-us<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Our website is packed with<br />
information, features and advice<br />
covering all our destinations across<br />
the globe. On the site you can browse by<br />
theme, special interest or region as well as<br />
viewing additional accommodation options<br />
and itineraries that are not featured in<br />
this brochure. You can download all our<br />
brochures online or contact us via the<br />
website where you can fill in the details of<br />
your plans so that we can start tailoring<br />
your itinerary.<br />
Useful information 87
New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 200 • Fax: 01993 838 010<br />
Email: nca@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com<br />
This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forestry Stewardship Council, using vegetable inks.<br />
Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC environmental accreditations. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.