02.11.2014 Views

Download - Audley Travel

Download - Audley Travel

Download - Audley Travel

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

C HINA, RUSSIA<br />

& CENTRAL A SIA<br />

CHINA<br />

HONG KONG<br />

TIBET<br />

TAIWAN<br />

SILK ROUTE<br />

IRAN<br />

UKRAINE<br />

RUSSIA<br />

MONGOLIA<br />

TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER


Dear <strong>Travel</strong>ler<br />

In a region as culturally diverse and<br />

geographically vast as China, Russia and<br />

Central Asia, where experiences range from<br />

strolling around the booming city of<br />

Shanghai right the way through to camping<br />

beneath the stars on the Mongolian steppe,<br />

it can be difficult to know where to start.<br />

Distances are huge and infrastructure can<br />

be poor, making careful planning absolutely<br />

crucial – these are for the most part not places<br />

where you can just turn up. Thankfully,<br />

our knowledgeable specialists, with their<br />

first-hand experience, are able to guide you<br />

through the highlights and potential pitfalls,<br />

and help you plan your perfect trip. Many<br />

of the team have studied, lived and worked<br />

in the region. Their deep cultural<br />

appreciation combined with a genuine<br />

enthusiasm to share their knowledge is<br />

what makes us different.<br />

Whether you are travelling here for the first<br />

time, or returning to explore in more depth,<br />

I hope our passion for this region shines<br />

through on the pages of this brochure,<br />

inspiring you to visit this fascinating and<br />

beautiful part of the world.<br />

Craig Burkinshaw<br />

Managing Director


Introducing <strong>Audley</strong><br />

After developing a real passion for travel in the early 1990s Craig Burkinshaw founded<br />

<strong>Audley</strong>, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. Craig wanted to make it possible for<br />

others to share the same experiences and, from these small beginnings, the company was born.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s<br />

interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity<br />

and a passion for travel. Today <strong>Audley</strong> is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour<br />

operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin<br />

America, Australasia, Antarctica and the Arctic, Canada and Alaska.<br />

Tailor-made journeys<br />

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip<br />

is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or<br />

luxurious accommodation, have great guides on<br />

hand or explore under your own steam, travel for<br />

one week or five, we can create a trip to match<br />

your tastes and budget. We can also design trips<br />

for a special occasion, where added touches can<br />

change an adventurous journey into a spectacular<br />

honeymoon, anniversary or birthday celebration.<br />

Your trip can be tailored to suit your particular<br />

interests, such as wildlife, photography or diving,<br />

and we have the specialist knowledge to match.<br />

Throughout the brochure you will find suggested<br />

itineraries and some of our favourite places to<br />

stay. These are included purely to offer inspiration<br />

and give you a flavour of what is possible, as each<br />

journey is created individually to give you the<br />

opportunity to experience a destination in<br />

exactly the way you choose.<br />

Specialist knowledge<br />

Our China, Russia and Central Asia specialists<br />

have all travelled extensively throughout the<br />

region and in many cases lived there, so you can<br />

rely on their extensive first-hand knowledge. They<br />

regularly return to see the accommodation, meet<br />

our guides – many of whom are firm friends –<br />

experience all the excursions and activities, and<br />

keep up-to-date with local developments. They<br />

pride themselves on having an honest ‘tell it how<br />

it is’ approach to planning your trip and, as well as<br />

their own extensive knowledge, are able to draw<br />

on the considerable collective experience of their<br />

colleagues. We believe this approach is unique to<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> and the only way we can genuinely offer<br />

you a tailor-made service.<br />

Financial security<br />

All travel arrangements in this brochure that<br />

include a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil<br />

Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817.<br />

Please see our booking conditions for more<br />

information. If your arrangements do not include<br />

any flights they are protected by a separate<br />

financial scheme, for further details please visit<br />

www.audleytravel.com/protect<br />

Planning your trip<br />

Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if<br />

you just want some general guidance, call one<br />

of our China, Russia, and Central Asia specialists<br />

on 01993 838 200. They can offer advice and<br />

discuss your plans with you, before creating a<br />

detailed itinerary, which will be forwarded to you<br />

together with maps, accommodation information,<br />

colour photographs and a price. Your specialist<br />

can then continue to refine the plans until you are<br />

completely satisfied. They will be on hand from<br />

the start of the planning process to your return<br />

and are always available to answer questions<br />

and offer sound advice.<br />

Ceramics on sale, Uzbekistan<br />

Contents<br />

Introduction 2-7<br />

China 8-41<br />

Classic China 10-27<br />

Yunnan 28-37<br />

Hong Kong 38-41<br />

Tibet 42-49<br />

Taiwan 50-51<br />

Silk Route 52-61<br />

Iran 62-67<br />

Ukraine 68-69<br />

Russia 70-81<br />

The Trans-Siberian Railway 80-81<br />

Mongolia 82-86<br />

Useful Information 87


<strong>Audley</strong> in China,<br />

Russia and Central Asia<br />

The countries in our China, Russia and Central Asia brochure are a diverse range of<br />

destinations, encompassing many different peoples and cultures. Perhaps what they<br />

all have in common though is just how ancient they all are. These are cultural giants and<br />

places that, at various points in their history, have ruled over vast swathes of the known<br />

world. Exploring the monuments, temples, monasteries, mosques and palaces that they’ve<br />

left behind as their power waxed and waned is what makes a visit to these parts of the<br />

world so interesting.<br />

A history of empires<br />

Kremlin domes, Moscow<br />

Chairman Mao badge<br />

Persepolis, Iran<br />

‘With Heaven’s aid I have conquered for you a<br />

huge empire. But my life was too short to achieve<br />

the conquest of the world. That task is left for<br />

you’. Genghis Khan to his successor.<br />

The history of these countries is one of empires<br />

rising and falling, jostling for supremacy with one<br />

another. The world’s oldest continuous one, the<br />

Chinese empire, has been about in one form or<br />

another since 221 BC, when the emperor Qin<br />

united various warring tribes and imposed a<br />

unified system of measurements as well as a<br />

standardised language.<br />

Lasting from 550 to 330 BC, the ancient Persian<br />

empire was the largest of its time, spanning<br />

present day Iran, large parts of Central Asia, as<br />

well as northern India, and most of the Middle<br />

East. Known for their tolerance of other cultures<br />

and enlightened statesmanship, the Persians<br />

eventually succumbed to Alexander the Great,<br />

leaving behind the mighty city of Persepolis, as<br />

well as an enormous sense of pride and a<br />

distinctive national identity in modern day Iran.<br />

Roaring out of Mongolia in the 13th century,<br />

Genghis Khan and his warriors ruled over most<br />

of present-day Asia and Eastern Europe, for a<br />

short time, before the vast empire disintegrated<br />

because of infighting. Today there is little evidence<br />

of the Mongols in the countries they conquered –<br />

but large numbers of Genghis Khan’s successors<br />

live a similar nomadic lifestyle to the one he<br />

would have lived.<br />

Picking up some of the pieces from the collapse<br />

of the Mongol empire, the Timurid dynasty<br />

reached its peak in the 15th century. Centred on<br />

Samarkand in present-day Uzbekistan, it was<br />

established by Tamerlane, a controversial ruler<br />

whose legacy is bittersweet. As well as wreaking<br />

great destruction – some estimate that he was<br />

responsible for the deaths of 17 million people –<br />

he also bequeathed some of the world’s most<br />

beautiful monuments and buildings, many of them<br />

in Samarkand.<br />

Several hundred years later, it was the turn of the<br />

Russians who, having subdued the vastness of<br />

Siberia in the 16th century, turned their attention<br />

to Central Asia in the late 18th and 19th<br />

centuries, pushing right up to the Iranian and<br />

Chinese borders. With the coming of communism<br />

the Russian empire was substituted for the Soviet<br />

empire, orthodox churches for Soviet tower<br />

blocks. These days Russian remains the lingua<br />

franca of the Central Asian region, and significant<br />

proportions of the population are ethnically<br />

Russian.<br />

In the 21st century it is once again the turn of the<br />

Chinese to be dominant as the Middle Kingdom<br />

rises, with huge changes in people’s way of life<br />

within the space of a generation. Witnessing a<br />

society in flux, with the tensions between ancient<br />

and modern ways of life is one of the reasons for<br />

visiting. Inevitably there are controversies too –<br />

between the expansionist demands of an empire<br />

and the right to self-determination of indigenous<br />

peoples, and between traditional ideas and<br />

modern technology.<br />

Seeing the historical and cultural remnants of<br />

all these empires dotted throughout the region<br />

is what makes a trip to this part of the world<br />

truly fascinating – with mosques in China and<br />

orthodox churches in Central Asia marking the<br />

high points of each wave of empire across the<br />

region. It remains to be seen where the high<br />

point of the current Chinese ascension will be,<br />

there being no signs of Chinese dominance in<br />

the region receding.<br />

4


Contrasting landscapes<br />

Spanning a quarter of the earth’s surface China,<br />

Russia and Central Asia contain many differing<br />

landscapes. From vast deserts in Mongolia and<br />

the north of China to lush forests in the south of<br />

China; from never-ending grass steppe in Siberia<br />

to awe inspiring mountain peaks in Tibet; from<br />

mighty rivers spanning the whole of China to<br />

ancient rice terraces built countless generations<br />

ago, there really is a landscape for every taste<br />

in these lands.<br />

Diverse cultures and peoples<br />

With a quarter of the world’s population,<br />

there is a huge variety of peoples and cultures.<br />

Hip urbanites in Beijing’s 798 art district,<br />

nomadic herders in Mongolia, devout Ayatollahs<br />

in Iran, wealthy Oligarchs in Russia – there is an<br />

endless variety of peoples, personalities, cultures<br />

and traditions to experience. Seeing the changes<br />

in the faces as you travel from east to west<br />

(or vice versa) is one of the most interesting<br />

facets of the many great journeys you can make<br />

in the region.<br />

Trans-Siberian train, Mongolia<br />

Great Journeys<br />

With such contrasting landscapes and<br />

cultures, there are a number of<br />

inspirational journeys that can be<br />

undertaken. Take the Trans-Siberian<br />

railway for a journey from European<br />

Moscow to Asian Beijing. Retrace the<br />

steps of the ancient Silk Road, crossing<br />

deserts and mountain passes. Take the<br />

highest railway in the world from<br />

Beijing to Lhasa. <strong>Travel</strong> overland from<br />

Lhasa to Kathmandu to experience the<br />

roof of the world. Follow in the<br />

footsteps of ancient tea traders in<br />

Yunnan. There are endless permutations<br />

and possibilities – the only limit is your<br />

imagination (and the number of pages<br />

left in your passport!).<br />

Mongolian nomads<br />

01993 838 200 ● Introduction 5


<strong>Audley</strong> in China,<br />

Russia and Central Asia<br />

Babushka selling cakes, Trans-Siberian Railway<br />

Accommodation<br />

With most of China, Russia and Central Asia<br />

having been staunch communist countries until<br />

relatively recently, there is sadly not much of a<br />

tradition of small, locally owned hotels and<br />

guesthouses. This is changing slowly though, and<br />

there are some genuine gems that we’ve<br />

discovered on our research trips. Some of the<br />

more popular destinations such as Beijing,<br />

Shanghai and St Petersburg have some smaller,<br />

more characterful options. For a truly unique<br />

experience, we can even arrange a stay in a ger<br />

tent in Central Asia or Mongolia. Elsewhere<br />

business orientated hotels tend to dominate.<br />

While these may be a little uninspiring, they are<br />

generally of a good standard.<br />

Responsible travel<br />

We're passionate about travel but also deeply<br />

aware of the responsibility we have to the people<br />

and places we visit. We believe that a visit from<br />

an <strong>Audley</strong> traveller should have a positive impact<br />

on the destination and, wherever possible, bring<br />

real benefits. We always endeavour to use locally<br />

owned hotels, work with local guides and<br />

operators, and promote community and wildlife<br />

projects. Our <strong>Travel</strong>ler's Code offers tips and<br />

advice you can use to ensure your trip does not<br />

threaten the sustainability of the places you visit.<br />

We carbon offset all our staff flights and you can<br />

choose to do the same, please speak to your<br />

specialist about this or follow the link on our<br />

website www.audleytravel.com/offset. Our<br />

commitment to responsible travel has been<br />

audited by AITO (Association of Independent<br />

Tour Operators) and we have been awarded five<br />

stars, the maximum achievable. We also support<br />

a variety of social and environmental charities and<br />

projects around the world.<br />

In the past the team have raised money to<br />

purchase ger tents and support projects that help<br />

orphans and street children in Ulaan Baatar,<br />

Mongolia. We continue to organise fund-raising<br />

events to support similar projects.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>ling around<br />

Within China, Russia and Central Asia we will<br />

always recommend the most convenient and<br />

appropriate means of transport for the region in<br />

which you are travelling. Given the vast distances<br />

in these parts of the world, this often means<br />

flying. For those with a little more time, rail<br />

journeys can be a great way of enjoying the<br />

scenery of the region, though standards can vary<br />

from country to country and from route to route.<br />

When a road journey is necessary or worthwhile<br />

we use well maintained, air-conditioned vehicles,<br />

you are accompanied by a local driver, and in<br />

most case an English-speaking guide to illuminate<br />

your journey.<br />

St Isaac's Cathedral, Russia<br />

6<br />

Rice terraces, China


Yi minority women, China<br />

Cuisine<br />

The food in China, Russia and Central Asia is as<br />

diverse as the culture. Chinese food is famous<br />

throughout the world, of course. What is not so<br />

well known is how much it varies from region to<br />

region. With most Chinese food in the UK<br />

originating from Hong Kong and the south of<br />

China, it can be very different to what you may<br />

have had at home. Russian and Central Asian<br />

cuisine has a poor reputation but has improved<br />

markedly since the fall of communism, especially<br />

in Moscow and St Petersburg in Russia where<br />

there are many excellent restaurants (both<br />

Russian and European).<br />

Off the beaten track<br />

For those that are looking for something a little<br />

different, the region offers a plethora of<br />

opportunities to really get out there and<br />

experience something truly different. Each country<br />

has its ‘must-see’ sites but beyond these there are<br />

often many interesting places which receive very<br />

few visitors. Whether you’re looking to have<br />

fantastic scenery all to yourself, take an epic<br />

overland journey or experience rural life in the<br />

country you’re visiting, our specialists will be able<br />

to put together a unique trip tailored to your<br />

interests and requirements.<br />

Mosque decoration, Iran<br />

Catching up at the market, Yunnan<br />

Ulughbek Medressa, Uzbekistan<br />

01993 838 200 ● Introduction 7


China<br />

China, the Middle Kingdom; for<br />

centuries the world’s richest and most<br />

advanced civilisation and, at the beginning<br />

of the 21st century, well on its way to<br />

reclaiming that title. This is a land of<br />

myriad landscapes, of ancient wonders and<br />

a billion people of diverse cultures, spread<br />

across an area larger than Europe. Journey<br />

through lands where the ancient past has<br />

been rediscovered, through mountainous<br />

realms and rural landscapes whose sublime<br />

beauty has captivated artists and travellers<br />

for centuries, and visit cities where the<br />

architectural marvels of the past vie for<br />

attention with the 21st century’s grandest<br />

extravagances. Here the frenetic modern<br />

world, despite encroaching further and<br />

further into Chinese life, still manages to<br />

coexist with the timeless rural rhythms of<br />

the emerald rice paddies and ancient sacred<br />

mountains. There are Taoist and Buddhist<br />

temples, classic teahouses, labyrinthine<br />

canals and majestic palaces to explore,<br />

providing harbours of calm in the midst<br />

of a bustling, sometimes crowded country.<br />

China is truly a country of thrilling<br />

contrasts, bursting with energy and magic.<br />

8


Classic China<br />

As you might expect, there are some definite<br />

‘must-sees’ for anyone who hasn’t been to China<br />

before contained in this region. The exciting city<br />

of Beijing, once home to emperors and their<br />

many wives (and concubines) acts as a culturesteeped<br />

introduction to the country and an ideal<br />

base to see the mighty Great Wall. Once the<br />

capital, Xian is now a major visitor destination<br />

thanks to the extraordinary Terracotta Army,<br />

which was first unearthed by a farmer in the<br />

1970s. Shanghai combines glittering modern<br />

architecture with colonial-era buildings, and gives<br />

an idea of just how fast China is changing.<br />

To the south, the Guilin region provides some of<br />

China’s most spectacular scenery – craggy<br />

limestone karst pinnacles looming above the<br />

meandering Li River. In this part of China life runs<br />

at a slightly slower pace, so a few days in this area<br />

makes a nice contrast to the bustling cities of<br />

Beijing, Xian and Shanghai. Splitting the country in<br />

two, the Yangtze River is arguably the source of<br />

China’s greatness. Its wide and fertile floodplain<br />

allowed the development of settled, productive<br />

agriculture which in turn led to the flowering of<br />

Chinese civilisation. A four day cruise can be a<br />

great way to break a China trip, allowing time to<br />

relax and absorb what you’ve seen so far.<br />

Yunnan Province<br />

Tucked away in the southwest corner of the<br />

country and bordering Tibet, Burma, Vietnam<br />

and Laos, Yunnan province has an extraordinary<br />

diversity of both culture and landscapes. Being at<br />

the crossroads of so many different countries has<br />

led to it becoming a real melting pot of different<br />

tribes and minorities. With Beijing and the Han<br />

heartland so far away, many people have proudly<br />

held onto their own language, traditions and<br />

customs. Timeless villages that haven’t changed<br />

for centuries and stunning mountain scenery<br />

such as the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge are just<br />

some of the reasons to come to this fascinating<br />

and still undeveloped part of China.<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Hong Kong enthrals with its breathtaking skyline<br />

and intriguing cultural fusion of east and west.<br />

As one of Asia’s busiest hubs, it is extremely<br />

well connected to and influenced by, not only<br />

China, but the rest of the world as well.<br />

Western China and the<br />

Silk Route<br />

To the west of Beijing, the Gobi desert gives<br />

way to the mountains and passes of Central Asia.<br />

This part of China is predominantly Muslim, and<br />

the faces look a little different from those in the<br />

rest of the country. From here, merchants and<br />

traders journeyed along the fabled 3000-year old<br />

Silk Route, crossing continents. Many people visit<br />

western China in conjunction with Central Asia,<br />

so we have included this part of China in the Silk<br />

Route section of our brochure on page 52.<br />

Tibet and Taiwan<br />

Most people don’t see Tibet and Taiwan as being<br />

part of China, though the Chinese government<br />

would argue otherwise. We have separate<br />

sections on these very different places, but it’s<br />

worth noting that the thawing of relations<br />

between China and Taiwan means that there are<br />

now regular scheduled flights between the capital<br />

Taipei and many mainland Chinese cities. This<br />

offers the possibility of combining Taiwan as part<br />

of a longer trip to China. Tibet can also be<br />

combined with other places in China and arriving<br />

on the Beijing to Lhasa railway makes for a<br />

spectacular entrance to Tibet. For more<br />

information see the Taiwan and Tibet pages.<br />

China 9


Classic China<br />

Over the course of its 5,000 year history<br />

China has developed one of the<br />

world’s richest and most sophisticated<br />

cultures, creating fabulous monuments to<br />

great Emperors, breathtaking manifestations<br />

of religious devotion and arts and crafts of<br />

all description that remain to this day the<br />

pinnacle of man’s creative achievements.<br />

As empires have waxed and waned China’s<br />

borders have expanded and contracted, but<br />

constant throughout have been the traditional<br />

Chinese heartlands of Beijing and Xian; the<br />

scenic splendour of the Yangtze gorges and<br />

Guilin; and the modern marvels of Shanghai<br />

and Hong Kong. These are the lands where<br />

the great philosophers – Confucius, Laozi<br />

and Zhuangzi – expounded their theories<br />

on life and governance, shaping society<br />

not only in China but across the entire<br />

Southeast Asian region. Many of our<br />

Classic China trips take in these celebrated<br />

destinations, featuring the world-renowned<br />

sights of the Great Wall, the Terracotta<br />

Army and the Forbidden City, with options<br />

to see the giant pandas, take a cruise on the<br />

mighty Yangtze river or relax amongst the<br />

limestone karst scenery of the Guilin region.<br />

10


I<br />

I<br />

I<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Classic China<br />

LAOS<br />

MONGOLIA<br />

CHINA<br />

Yangtze<br />

VIETNAM<br />

1 Beijing<br />

Visiting the Forbidden City<br />

gives an idea of the unbridled<br />

power and wealth of<br />

generations of emperors.<br />

2 The Great Wall<br />

For many, the symbol of China<br />

and one of the world’s greatest<br />

feats of construction.<br />

3 The Terracotta Army<br />

Discovered by a farmer in the<br />

1970s, this lifesize army of<br />

warriors, horses, cooks and<br />

more besides was intended to<br />

help the emperor continue his<br />

rule in the afterlife.<br />

8<br />

Terracotta warrior, Xian<br />

5<br />

3<br />

6<br />

I I<br />

I<br />

7<br />

I I<br />

2<br />

I<br />

I<br />

I<br />

Hainan<br />

Island<br />

I<br />

I I<br />

I<br />

I<br />

I I<br />

Yellow River<br />

I IBEIJING<br />

Huang<br />

Shan<br />

4 Shanghai<br />

One of the world’s most<br />

exciting cities, the scale of<br />

Shanghai and the pace of<br />

change make it a must.<br />

5 Yangtze River<br />

A cruise down the Yangtze<br />

makes for a relaxing and<br />

scenically rewarding trip.<br />

Skyline, Shanghai<br />

6 Guilin’s limestone<br />

karst scenery<br />

These craggy pinnacles dot the<br />

landscape in the Guilin area.<br />

There are options to go<br />

boating, cycling or walking in<br />

this scenic and laid back area.<br />

7 Yangshuo’s cormorant<br />

fishermen<br />

Canny fishermen in China’s<br />

south have trained cormorants<br />

birds to catch fish.<br />

9<br />

1<br />

NORTH<br />

KOREA<br />

TAIPEI<br />

TAIWAN<br />

0 500 miles<br />

0 805 kilometres<br />

4<br />

SOUTH<br />

KOREA<br />

Zhong woman, Longji<br />

8 Chengdu’s panda<br />

sanctuary<br />

Seeing pandas in the wild is nigh<br />

on impossible, but at Chengdu’s<br />

panda sanctuary they can be<br />

seen in as close to their natural<br />

habitat as possible.<br />

9 Hong Kong<br />

Cosmopolitan Hong Kong<br />

makes for a great start or<br />

finish to a trip.<br />

China’s culinary delights<br />

China’s food is as varied as<br />

life itself, with countless<br />

regional dishes.<br />

Panda, Chengdu<br />

As China has developed, the Chinese have<br />

become increasingly interested in discovering<br />

the sights of their own country. This means<br />

that in peak season, crowds are unavoidable<br />

at some of the key sites, such as at the<br />

Terracotta Army. We can help you to<br />

escape these though. For instance, at the<br />

Great Wall, we will arrange to take you to a<br />

lesser visited section; in Xian there are some<br />

far less busy burial pits we know of that will<br />

compliment a visit to the Terracotta Army.<br />

Using the services of a private guide and<br />

driver will also give you the flexibility to avoid<br />

large groups of visitors, enabling you to get<br />

the most out of your time in China. The<br />

quality of guides can be patchy in China, so<br />

we use a trusted network of local guides and<br />

private transport arrangements.<br />

Accommodation<br />

We offer a range of places to stay within<br />

this part of China, ranging from simple<br />

guesthouses to luxurious hotels. Almost all<br />

destinations have a good standard of<br />

accommodation and new hotels are opening<br />

all the time. In some places the hotels<br />

available may be functional Western branded<br />

ones, geared more towards the business<br />

market – not especially inspiring but<br />

comfortable and generally well run.<br />

In other places a wider range of<br />

accommodation is available. Beijing in<br />

particular has some attractive traditional style<br />

properties, built around historic courtyards<br />

that have changed little in decades. Shanghai<br />

in contrast has a number of boutique hotels,<br />

as befits China’s city of the future. A number<br />

of luxury properties have also recently<br />

become available, located away from city<br />

centres – these are ideal for those who<br />

want to relax and unwind in comfort at the<br />

end of a trip.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in China, please<br />

see page 26.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our China<br />

specialists 01993 838 220<br />

China 11


Forbidden City, Beijing<br />

Beijing<br />

China’s modern capital, Beijing, is a true<br />

microcosm of a fascinating country with all its<br />

intriguing contradictions and is an excellent place<br />

to begin your exploration of China’s rich history,<br />

scenery and sights. The lofty modernist spread<br />

of Tiananmen Square, with its monolithic<br />

monuments to Communist glory, faces that most<br />

imposing of sights, the Forbidden City, while the<br />

crowds and bustle of the city fade away in the<br />

serene spaces of the Temple of Heaven and the<br />

Summer Palace. The traditional ‘hutongs’ –<br />

narrow busy backstreets which are fast<br />

disappearing – evoke a more traditional side to<br />

Chinese life, while the Olympic Park and the<br />

urbane restaurants and hotels speak of a different<br />

China. Both offer the chance to immerse yourself<br />

in this rich and complex society – and we<br />

suggest spending at least three whole days here<br />

to do so.<br />

Card players, Temple of Heaven<br />

12<br />

In front of the Forbidden City, Beijing<br />

Forbidden City<br />

Home to several dynasties of Chinese Emperors,<br />

the palace known as the Forbidden City is so<br />

named as it was off limits to anyone but the<br />

Emperor, his family and their courtesans. Anyone<br />

who transgressed this rule and entered without<br />

the Emperor’s permission was condemned to<br />

instant execution. These days the Forbidden City<br />

is one of the key sites in the capital, giving visitors<br />

an insight into the power and wealth of the rulers<br />

of the Middle Kingdom. The series of nearly<br />

1,000 buildings is the largest and best preserved<br />

ensemble in China, and a visit here and to the<br />

adjacent Tiananmen Square is a must.<br />

THE HAOYUAN GUESTHOUSE,<br />

BEIJING<br />

Set around two peaceful and pretty courtyards,<br />

The Haoyuan Guesthouse, in the former<br />

residence of a wealthy Beijing banker, offers very<br />

good value. While the hotel is located well apart<br />

from the crowds, Tiananmen Square is just a<br />

15-20 minutes walk away. The 16 rooms are<br />

decorated in the traditional Chinese style, and the<br />

rear courtyard in particular is peaceful and tranquil<br />

– you will certainly feel like you are in China<br />

when staying here.<br />

Haoyuan Guesthouse, Beijing


Summer Palace, Beijing<br />

Temple of Heaven and the<br />

Summer Palace<br />

Built along strict Confucian lines, the Temple of<br />

Heaven, fully restored for the 2008 Beijing<br />

Olympics, served as a vast stage for the<br />

performance of solemn rites to ensure a bountiful<br />

harvest. The exquisitely realised halls and altars<br />

are all loaded with symbolism. The Summer<br />

Palace, a pretty oasis of palaces, temples, lakes<br />

and decorative bridges is where the Emperor and<br />

his family retreated to during the dry and dusty<br />

summer months. Its huge recreational park and<br />

classic gardens, popular with both visitors and<br />

residents, was described by UNESCO as ‘a<br />

masterpiece of Chinese landscape design’.<br />

Constructed over a number of years, at one point<br />

over 100,000 labourers toiled to dig out a huge<br />

artificial lake, which today can be crossed by boat.<br />

AMAN AT SUMMER PALACE,<br />

BEIJING<br />

Located right next to the east gate of the<br />

Emperor’s Summer Palace, Aman at Summer<br />

Palace offers some of Beijing’s most luxurious and<br />

charismatic accommodation. Most of the rooms<br />

and suites are housed in a series of dwellings<br />

which date back over one hundred years. There is<br />

a private entrance to the grounds of the Summer<br />

Palace so guests can enter first thing in the<br />

morning and see local residents practising Tai-Chi.<br />

The Great Wall<br />

Snaking infinitely across China’s landscape,<br />

the Great Wall remains China’s most potent<br />

symbol and one of the world’s most<br />

awe-inspiring sights. Construction began in<br />

the 5th century BC, and continued, along with<br />

constant renovations, until the 16th century.<br />

Built to keep out the warlike tribes to the<br />

north of China, it is estimated that over two<br />

million people died in its construction. Our<br />

favourite place to see the wall is Jinshanling –<br />

one of the quieter and more dramatic<br />

sections. Although further from Beijing, the<br />

location means that it is mercifully free from<br />

the large groups that can crowd other areas.<br />

Here you can walk peacefully along the wall<br />

Aman at Summer Palace, Beijing<br />

Great Wall, Jinshanling<br />

and breathe in the fabulous vistas that unfold<br />

before you. For those who enjoy walking, we<br />

can also organise an excellent day walk along<br />

a portion of the wall. There are even<br />

possibilities for an extended five day trek.<br />

The Long Corridor, Summer Palace<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 13


Xian and the Terracotta Army<br />

Terracotta Army, Xian<br />

Xian<br />

For centuries the city of Xian (or Chang’An)<br />

was the heart of the Chinese Empire and the<br />

seat of its most glorious dynasties. The city and<br />

surrounding countryside is honeycombed with<br />

fascinating archaeological remnants of those<br />

halcyon days, but the biggest draw by far<br />

remains the Terracotta Army of the First<br />

Emperor Qin Shi Huang. There are, however,<br />

many other reasons for spending time here.<br />

As well as numerous ancient pagodas, there is<br />

the Shaanxi History Museum, arguably the best<br />

Muslim Hui family, Xian<br />

in the country, which houses a remarkable<br />

array of artefacts spanning China’s entire<br />

history. Xian also has a significant Islamic<br />

population – a result of its heritage as the<br />

starting point of the ancient Silk Route. For a<br />

taste of this, you can visit the lively Muslim<br />

quarter, home to the country’s oldest mosque<br />

and rich with the aromas of street cooking.<br />

The Terracotta Army<br />

Famous the world over, the Terracotta Army<br />

was discovered in the 1970s by a local farmer<br />

digging for a well. Since then, well over 8,000<br />

figures, as well as countless other artefacts<br />

have been unearthed. Dating back to 200 BC,<br />

the ranked life-size statues, each unique<br />

and many mounted on horseback, make an<br />

awe-inspiring sight in their three excavated<br />

pits. The figures are complemented by<br />

a display of equally stunning bronze<br />

craftsmanship discovered nearby. The man<br />

behind the army was Qin Shi Huang – the<br />

first Emperor to unite China in 221 BC. He<br />

expected to rule in the afterlife as he had on<br />

earth, and so constructed a huge army to assist<br />

him. To understand the historical context of<br />

the warriors, there is a short film shown in a<br />

purpose built theatre, which explains how the<br />

warriors were made, and a little about the<br />

emperor Qin.<br />

Hanyanling Tombs<br />

The Terracotta Army understandably can get<br />

a little crowded. The more recently discovered<br />

Hanyanling tombs don’t yet receive anything<br />

like the same number of visitors. These tombs<br />

are from a later Emperor, the Emperor Jingdi<br />

who ruled from 188 to 141 BC. He was<br />

notable for being a relatively progressive<br />

ruler – lowering taxes, cutting punishments<br />

for criminals and using diplomacy rather than<br />

force in foreign relations. His tombs are<br />

interesting as they contain more day to day<br />

artefacts than the Terracotta Army. There are<br />

still many thousands of figurines, some<br />

exquisitely carved – though none life size,<br />

perhaps reflecting the decline in power and<br />

wealth of this more modest emperor.<br />

Terracotta animals, Hanyanling tombs<br />

14


Chengdu<br />

Red panda, Chengdu<br />

Chengdu<br />

The laid-back city of Chengdu is the capital of<br />

fiery Sichuan Province, isolated from the rest of<br />

the country by an encircling ring of wild peaks.<br />

The food is super-spicy, the locals friendly, and<br />

the temples and teahouses provide some of the<br />

best opportunities for people-watching in the<br />

whole of China. To the west, misty mountains<br />

Giant panda, Chengdu<br />

range for hundreds of miles to the Tibetan<br />

Plateau, and the north, clad in swaying bamboo<br />

forests, is the final stronghold of China’s national<br />

symbol, the reclusive giant panda. Sightings in<br />

the wild are extremely rare, but a visit to the<br />

panda reserve or research centre close to<br />

Chengdu guarantees a close-up encounter with<br />

these magnificent animals – see page 16 for<br />

more information.<br />

Teahouse, Chengdu<br />

Hainan island<br />

Beach, Hainan Island<br />

Seen by the Chinese as their very own Hawaii,<br />

Hainan is on the same latitude as the north of<br />

Vietnam. It therefore benefits from pleasantly<br />

warm temperatures for most of the year, as well<br />

as clear, sunny days. There are clean, sandy<br />

shorelines and a number of good quality hotels<br />

and resorts, many with their own private beaches.<br />

Away from the coast, it's possible to arrange day<br />

treks through tropical woodlands, or to visit a<br />

monkey sanctuary, though most people come to<br />

just relax by the sea. Hainan is easily accessible<br />

from most mainland Chinese cities. It has been<br />

developed at breakneck speed, and lost a little of<br />

its charm in the process, but nevertheless is<br />

perfect for those looking for a few days of<br />

relaxation at the end of a trip to China.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 15


Family China<br />

There’s something of interest in China for<br />

families of all ages – younger children will love<br />

seeing giant pandas lolling around munching on<br />

bamboo, while older children will enjoy learning<br />

about Chinese cuisine during a cookery lesson.<br />

With an excellent standard of hotels in most of<br />

the major cities, a family holiday to China is<br />

highly recommended and is sure to be<br />

memorable. Here we present a few of our<br />

favourite family activities – but our specialists<br />

have many more ideas up their sleeves.<br />

Young Chinese children, Guilin<br />

Cycling in Yangshuo<br />

The laid back town of Yangshuo has a<br />

spectacular setting amongst the craggy limestone<br />

peaks of the Guilin area. While the town has<br />

grown more popular with visitors over the<br />

years, it is still a small friendly place, and with<br />

the aid of bikes makes the perfect base for<br />

exploring the surrounding countryside. With<br />

its unspoilt villages and quiet roads this will<br />

give a small but fascinating taste of rural life in<br />

China. We can either arrange for you to be<br />

accompanied by a guide, or, alternatively, it is<br />

easy to arrange bike hire locally and just hit the<br />

trails on your own.<br />

Mother panda with her cub, Chengdu<br />

Cormorant fisherman, Yangshuo<br />

Giant pandas<br />

Symbol of China the world over, the giant<br />

panda is a fascinating, beguiling animal. There are<br />

several well funded and well maintained panda<br />

research institutes near the southern city of<br />

Chengdu (see page 15). Here children and<br />

adults can learn about the panda and its habitat,<br />

have their picture taken with panda cubs, or<br />

even volunteer for a day at the institute. For<br />

those with less time who aren’t able to make it<br />

to Chengdu, Beijing Zoo also has a number of<br />

well cared for pandas.<br />

Cyclists, Yangshuo<br />

16


Beijing<br />

Beijing is the first port of call for most visitors<br />

to China. The Forbidden City, Temple of<br />

Heaven and other ‘must-see’ sites are fabulous,<br />

but there are also a number of other places<br />

ideal for those with younger children. We<br />

recommend the Sony ExploraScience centre, a<br />

modern and extremely well designed museum<br />

that offers interactive exploration of science and<br />

technology. Beijing’s aquarium is also one of the<br />

world’s largest, with colourful aquatic life from<br />

China and the whole world. Alternatively simply<br />

take a rickshaw ride in Beijing’s hutong district<br />

(the narrow, ancient streets of the city) for an<br />

authentic local experience.<br />

Kung Fu students, Shaolin<br />

Family China Itinerary<br />

This itinerary combines some of the classic sites of<br />

China in a family friendly way. As with all our<br />

itineraries, we can tailor this to make the ideal trip<br />

for your family.<br />

Beijing<br />

Day 1<br />

Fly overnight to Beijing.<br />

Xian<br />

Day 2<br />

Recover from your flight and in the<br />

afternoon begin exploring the city.<br />

Shanghai<br />

Shark tank, Beijing aquarium<br />

Beach fun and relaxation<br />

China is not somewhere that most people<br />

associate with beaches. China’s island of Hainan,<br />

not far off the coast of Vietnam, has clean, sandy<br />

beaches, and a number of good quality hotels<br />

and resorts. Our hotels of choice all have<br />

private, supervised beaches and are well set-up<br />

for families of all ages. See page 15 for a little<br />

more information about Hainan island.<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Take in Tiananmen Square and the<br />

Forbidden City. In the afternoon, take a<br />

bike ride around the hutongs district.<br />

Leave the city to take a walk along the<br />

Great Wall.<br />

Visit the Sony ExploraScience centre<br />

in the morning, and in the afternoon<br />

see the magnificent Temple of Heaven.<br />

Take in a Kung Fu show in the evening.<br />

Fly on to Xian. In the afternoon take a<br />

cycle ride around Xian’s city walls.<br />

Guilin<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Day 15 Spend the day exploring Hong Kong –<br />

there’s a Disneyland for those so<br />

inclined – before returning to the UK<br />

in the evening.<br />

Day 16<br />

Longi<br />

Yangshuo<br />

Early arrival into the UK.<br />

Cookery lessons<br />

Most children will have tasted Chinese food and<br />

for older children and teenagers, a Chinese<br />

cookery lesson can be a great way to bring<br />

something back from your time in China.<br />

Chinese cooking is extraordinarily varied, with a<br />

range of flavours, ingredients and cooking styles<br />

to suit all tastes and skill levels. Lessons are in<br />

English, and can also involve a hands-on trip to<br />

the local market to choose some ingredients.<br />

Kung Fu<br />

Kung Fu is an ancient skill that has long held a<br />

fascination for teenagers (and adults) the world<br />

over. We can arrange a trip to an electrifying<br />

and incredibly impressive display in either Beijing<br />

or Shanghai. For those who want to delve a<br />

little deeper into this elegant martial art, we can<br />

also arrange Kung Fu lessons with an English<br />

speaking teacher. For the ultimate fan, it’s also<br />

possible to visit Shaolin, home to one of the<br />

most famous Kung Fu temples, where monks<br />

still teach the art of Kung Fu to this day.<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Head out to Xian’s star attraction – the<br />

Terracotta Army. In the afternoon fly<br />

on to Shanghai.<br />

Spend the day exploring Shanghai under<br />

your own steam, perhaps taking a stroll<br />

around the French Concession.<br />

Visit Shanghai’s aquarium in the<br />

morning. In the evening see Shanghai’s<br />

amazing acrobats.<br />

After a last morning in Shanghai fly on<br />

to Guilin.<br />

Take a cruise up the Li River to the<br />

town of Yangshuo. In the afternoon<br />

explore some of the countryside<br />

around Yangshuo by bike.<br />

Learn about Chinese cookery in the<br />

morning, or if you prefer, take a Kung<br />

Fu lesson. Spend the afternoon bamboo<br />

rafting on a tributary of the River Li.<br />

Transfer to the village of Longji.<br />

Spend the morning walking among the<br />

pretty rice terraces. In the afternoon<br />

transfer back to Guilin to fly on to<br />

Hong Kong.<br />

Stay longer<br />

You could easily extend this itinerary to spend more<br />

time in Hong Kong. Alternatively, if you wanted to<br />

see the pandas, add on a few days to visit Chengdu.<br />

For Kung Fu fans, add on two nights to see the<br />

famous Shaolin temple. You could also finish the trip<br />

with a few days on the beach – China’s tropical<br />

Hainan Island is easily accessible, as are the beaches<br />

of Thailand.<br />

Playing at the seaside, Hainan island<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 17


The Bund, Shanghai<br />

Shanghai<br />

Contrasting images fuse to form Shanghai, the<br />

epitome of a self-confident, 21st century China.<br />

The cosmopolitan atmosphere here seems far<br />

removed from many of the country’s other cities.<br />

Surrounded by classic 1930’s colonial architecture,<br />

take a stroll along the waterfront Bund, the<br />

dazzling jewel in East Asia’s pre-war crown, with<br />

views across the river to the towering skyscrapers<br />

of Pudong. This is the new Shanghai, with shards<br />

of glass and steel seemingly growing like grass.<br />

Further back from the river is the French<br />

Concession – with tree lined streets and an<br />

excellent choice of bars and restaurants, this part<br />

of town is more laid back than others. We can<br />

provide suggestions to help you to explore on<br />

your own or organise a guided tour.<br />

Anting Villa, Shanghai<br />

18<br />

ANTING VILLA, SHANGHAI<br />

Situated in the heart of Shanghai’s French<br />

Concession, the Anting Villa offers excellent value<br />

accommodation for your stay in Shanghai.<br />

Housed in a building that blends in well with the<br />

surrounding colonial era architecture, rooms are<br />

well appointed. There is both a Chinese and<br />

Western restaurant – but the best feature of<br />

the hotel is the lush green grounds, which<br />

provide a welcome respite from the hustle and<br />

bustle of Shanghai.<br />

Peninsula, Shanghai<br />

THE PENINSULA, SHANGHAI<br />

With a prime location on the Bund, The Peninsula<br />

is one of Shanghai’s grandest and most luxurious<br />

hotels and a welcome addition to a city with a<br />

surfeit of hotels aimed at the business market.<br />

Housed in an art-deco style building, the rooms<br />

and suites here are amongst the biggest in the<br />

city, some with views over the river to the<br />

glittering buildings of Pudong.<br />

Mansion, French Concession<br />

The French Concession<br />

Shanghai was little more than a fishing<br />

village until Western trade with China<br />

really started to take off in the 19th<br />

century. Following the infamous Opium<br />

Wars, a weakened China allowed a<br />

number of foreign powers, including the<br />

French, to open free-trade concessions.<br />

During the early 20th century, the<br />

concession developed into the premier<br />

residential district of the city, with grand<br />

villas and leafy boulevards. These days<br />

the French are long gone, but the area<br />

retains a laid back feel to it and it is a<br />

charming place to stroll in the evenings.


Temple, near Suzhou<br />

Master of the Nets Garden, Suzhou<br />

Autumn colours, Hangzhou<br />

Tea picker, near Hangzhou<br />

Suzhou<br />

The water town of Tongli, near Suzhou<br />

Hangzhou<br />

Criss-crossed by canals and blooming with<br />

exquisite landscaped gardens, Suzhou is a<br />

delightful destination only an hour by train from<br />

Shanghai. The waterways and tree-lined avenues<br />

lattice an area famed for silk weaving, with<br />

techniques brought to vivid life at its renowned<br />

Silk Museum. In the region there are picturesque<br />

water towns such as Tongli, Zhouzhuang and Zhu<br />

Jia Jiao, where ancient stone bridges cross winding<br />

canals and old merchants’ houses line narrow<br />

cobbled streets. At their best these small towns<br />

offer a rare and fascinating insight into a bygone<br />

China, but can be busy in the high season; we<br />

plan early starts to avoid the crowds.<br />

Amanfayun, Hangzhou<br />

Chinese tourists consider the former capital of<br />

Hangzhou one of the country’s finest destinations,<br />

thanks largely to the picturesque expanse of West<br />

Lake, a scene immortalised over the centuries by<br />

countless Chinese artists. While the gentle rolling<br />

scenery around Hangzhou is less dramatic than<br />

elsewhere, the relaxed atmosphere and greenery<br />

of the city makes a welcome change from many<br />

better known destinations. After the frantic bustle<br />

of Shanghai or Beijing, this is the perfect place<br />

to hire a bike and ride around the lake and into<br />

the nearby hills. You can also visit the local tea<br />

plantations, where the produce is of such high<br />

quality that it is routinely presented to visiting<br />

heads of state, including Queen Elizabeth. This,<br />

combined with the recent addition of some<br />

characterful and very comfortable accommodation<br />

options, make Hangzhou an ideal stop for a few<br />

days towards the end of a trip.<br />

AMANFAYUN, HANGZHOU<br />

Surrounded by tea fields, woodland and small<br />

unspoilt villages, Amanfayun is an ideal place to<br />

relax, unwind and pamper yourself. Designed in<br />

the spirit of a traditional village, each of the 47<br />

rooms is housed in a typical dwelling of the area,<br />

some of which are over a hundred years old.<br />

There is a teahouse, a number of restaurants as<br />

well as a spa on site. The temples, lakes and vistas<br />

of Hangzhou are only a 20 minute drive away.<br />

Huang Shan mountains<br />

Huang Shan<br />

With jagged peaks entwined in cloud, Huang<br />

Shan is China’s foremost sacred mountain. It is<br />

increasingly popular with Chinese visitors, but<br />

if you stay overnight in one of the hotels at the<br />

summit, you may find that you have the peaks<br />

to yourself. Sunrises up here can be truly<br />

magnificent, as the sun slowly comes up to reveal<br />

a series of jagged peaks poking through a sea of<br />

clouds. Huang Shan is a three hour drive from<br />

Hangzhou, and so combines well with this often<br />

overlooked part of China.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 19


Cruising on the Yangtze<br />

Traditional Sampan under sail in the Three Gorges<br />

Most people’s first trip to China lasts just two or<br />

three weeks – a relatively short amount of time<br />

to try and take in over 4,000 years of history,<br />

56 different minority groups and the third<br />

largest country in the world. A cruise on the<br />

mighty Yangtze River is a great way to have a<br />

break from the temples and museums, and<br />

digest what you’ve seen so far. For those so<br />

inclined, it’s an opportunity to perhaps tackle<br />

one of the many readable histories of China, to<br />

give some context to what you’ve seen. For<br />

others it’s a good chance to relax on the sun<br />

deck and soak up the scenery. Either way, a<br />

Yangtze cruise is a highly recommended option<br />

as part of a first trip to China.<br />

Carving detail, Fengdu<br />

Fisherman, Yangtze river<br />

The route<br />

The majority of boats ply the Yangtze between<br />

the cities of Chongqing and Yichang. The scenery<br />

on the downstream route, from Chongqing to<br />

Yichang, gets better and better, culminating in<br />

the spectacular Three Gorges. The upstream<br />

route takes a little longer, four nights as opposed<br />

to three downstream, and so is better suited to<br />

those with more time. A small number of boats<br />

continue all the way to Shanghai – not<br />

recommended unless you are a diehard cruise<br />

enthusiast, as you’ll have witnessed the best of<br />

the area’s scenery before Yichang.<br />

Chongqing<br />

Gateway to the Yangtze, Chongqing has grown<br />

hugely over the last decade or so. It’s not an<br />

especially attractive city, but for those arriving<br />

from elsewhere with time to spare before<br />

boarding a Yangtze boat in the evening, there<br />

are some beautifully preserved Buddhist<br />

grottoes in the vicinity. You should also leave<br />

time to try the local speciality – Chongqing<br />

hotpot, a spicy dish adored by the locals!<br />

Qutang gorge, Yangtze River<br />

20


Local people, Yangtze river<br />

Fengdu<br />

The ‘ghost city’ of Fengdu takes its name from<br />

two Chinese officials who became bored of<br />

court life, and moved to the area to practice<br />

Taoist teachings. They reputably became so<br />

good at it that they both became immortal –<br />

hence the name ghost city. There are a number<br />

of temples here, and it’s a good place to learn<br />

some of the tenets of Taoism.<br />

The Three Gorges<br />

The scenic highlight of the cruise, the Three<br />

Gorges of Qutang, Wu and Xiling are each<br />

markedly different. Qutang is the first one that<br />

you come to if travelling downstream. At eight<br />

kilometres long it is the shortest, but arguably<br />

the most spectacular. At its narrowest point it is<br />

just 100 metres across, and the huge vertical<br />

sheets of rock are majestically imposing. Wu<br />

(‘witches’) gorge, around 20 kilometres further<br />

downstream, is more verdant, with the jagged<br />

peaks sometimes hidden in a swirling,<br />

atmospheric mist. Xiling, the longest gorge, is<br />

the least spectacular, but used to be the most<br />

dangerous before the river was tamed. You can<br />

still see beacons glowing on the banks at night,<br />

to warn captains away from the shallows.<br />

Yangtze tributaries<br />

All of the Yangtze cruises spend some time<br />

visiting one of the smaller tributaries of the<br />

Yangtze. These have their own gorges, some<br />

of which are as impressive as the Three Gorges<br />

themselves. Smaller boats are used for these<br />

side trips, and most land on shore to explore<br />

some of the local villages on the river banks.<br />

The Three Gorges Dam<br />

The controversial Three Gorges Dam project is<br />

known the world over. Whatever your views on<br />

it, it’s difficult not to be awed by the sheer scale<br />

of the achievement. It’s the world’s longest dam,<br />

at 2,335 metres, as well as the world’s largest<br />

hydroelectric power station by output. The<br />

project is a great source of pride to most<br />

Chinese people. You’ll see the huge dam from<br />

a viewing platform, and continue around the<br />

surprisingly interesting visitors centre.<br />

Yichang<br />

Yichang is where most boats turn around and<br />

head back up the river to Chongqing. There is<br />

little to detain you here, and most people<br />

transfer from their boat to the airport, for an<br />

onward flight.<br />

Guide to the boats<br />

Three Gorges Dam, Yangtze River<br />

We offer a range of boats, from the luxurious<br />

Yangtze Explorer to the great value Victoria<br />

Cruise boats. All boats are of a good<br />

standard, with reasonably sized, en suite<br />

cabins. On shore excursions are in groups,<br />

led by generally excellent local guides. Here<br />

we present a selection of our favourites.<br />

M/S YANGTZE EXPLORER<br />

The smallest and most luxurious Yangtze<br />

boat, the Yangtze Explorer offers the most<br />

intimate experience on the river, with just<br />

124 guests on board. Each of the 62 cabins<br />

are spacious (for a river boat), and all have a<br />

MS Yangtze Explorer, Yangtze River<br />

Victoria Cruises, Yangtze River<br />

balcony. On board facilities include a spa with<br />

six treatment rooms, espresso bar, sauna, bar<br />

and observation deck. Lunch and dinner are<br />

both à la carte.<br />

VICTORIA CRUISES<br />

The American-managed Victoria Cruises have<br />

the largest fleet of boats on the Yangtze,<br />

offering sailings most days of the week. Boats<br />

range in size, carrying from 206 to 378<br />

passengers. All seven boats are very well<br />

managed, with a range of (optional) on board<br />

activities. Facilities include an à la carte<br />

restaurant, a small gym, as well as a bar and<br />

observation deck. Cabins all have balconies,<br />

and all meals are served buffet style.<br />

M/S CENTURY DIAMOND<br />

Newly launched in 2008 and the flagship of<br />

the Century Fleet, the M/S Century Diamond<br />

offers fantastic value for money for sailings<br />

along the Yangtze. The ship boasts some of<br />

the largest standard cabins available amongst<br />

cruise ships of the same class and each of<br />

these has their own private balcony. The boat<br />

carries 264 passengers and offers a range of<br />

facilities including à la carte (available at an<br />

extra daily charge) and buffet restaurants, a<br />

spacious bar area and observation deck.<br />

Yangtze tributary<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 21


Cormorant fisherman with his birds<br />

Children with buffalo, near Yangshuo<br />

Guilin<br />

Guilin, in the south of China, has a more laid back<br />

feel than the more developed cities of the north.<br />

The sheer limestone peaks rearing from the flat<br />

plain around the city form a strikingly beautiful<br />

landscape that has, since classical times, formed<br />

a key motif of Chinese art and literature. Guilin<br />

itself is a pleasant enough city, but acts more as<br />

a gateway to the surrounding region. Yangshuo<br />

and Longji are easily accessible places to take in<br />

the scenery. Further afield, the region also has<br />

some beautifully unspoilt villages and interesting<br />

minority festivals.<br />

22<br />

SHANGRI-LA, GUILIN<br />

Guilin’s best hotel, the Shangri-La’s rooms are<br />

large and well-apportioned, some with views<br />

over the pituresque Li River. There’s a wide<br />

selection of restaurants and indoor and outdoor<br />

pools to relax in at the end of the day, as well<br />

as spa and jacuzzi facilities.<br />

Yangshuo<br />

A cruise downriver from Guilin to the small<br />

market town of Yangshuo is a popular and<br />

relaxing way to see the jagged limestone peaks.<br />

As you float downstream you’re likely to see<br />

water buffalo, farmers tending their fields, and<br />

fishermen trying to land the day’s catch. The town<br />

itself has become more popular with visitors in<br />

recent years, but remains a relaxed, friendly place<br />

in a stunning location. It’s also a fabulous base<br />

from which to explore the local countryside. This<br />

can be done by bike, car, or in a more limited<br />

way, on foot. The many tributaries of the river<br />

also offer opportunities to take a gentle rafting<br />

ride – a relaxing way to see some of the scenery.<br />

Evenings can be spent watching cormorant<br />

fishermen at work, or dining at one of the many<br />

local restaurants in the town. There is also a<br />

spectacular sound and light show, Yangshuo<br />

Impressions, choreographed by Zhang Yimao,<br />

who went on to direct the opening ceremony of<br />

the 2008 Olympic Games in Beijing.<br />

Karst scenery, Guilin<br />

Yangshuo Riverside Resort<br />

YANGSHUO RIVERSIDE RESORT<br />

Set amongst Yangshuo’s beautiful limestone karst<br />

scenery, the Yangshuo Riverside Resort offers<br />

some of the best quality accommodation in the<br />

area, with a peaceful riverside setting. Many<br />

rooms have views of the river, and all are<br />

spacious and furnished to a high standard.


Farmer ploughing field, near Yangshuo<br />

Longji<br />

Only two hours north of Guilin, the ancient rice<br />

terraces of Longji, the ‘Dragon’s Backbone’, offer<br />

an awe-inspiring location to experience Zhuang<br />

minority culture first-hand. A night amongst the<br />

terraces offers a great opportunity to escape<br />

the bustle of modern China and experience a<br />

traditional rural way of life. Guided walks of all<br />

lengths can also be organised between the many<br />

villages that dot the hillsides. Although the local<br />

villagers are increasingly used to seeing Western<br />

faces, this is still a great way to experience a<br />

different side of China.<br />

Miao men, Lusheng festival<br />

Beyond Longji<br />

Heading beyond Longji, the terrain becomes<br />

more mountainous, and the roads bumpier. This<br />

part of China is amongst the least developed in<br />

the country. Those who are happy with quite<br />

basic accommodation and rough roads are<br />

rewarded with fantastic scenery, a huge variety of<br />

different minority cultures, and unspoilt villages<br />

such as Chengyang. This is a great place to come<br />

to track down local festivals, which occur<br />

throughout the year. An interesting one is the<br />

Lusheng festival, held in early October. The<br />

Lusheng is a reed instrument, which varies from<br />

one to seven metres in length, and the festival<br />

involves performances, dancing, bullfighting<br />

and horseracing.<br />

Lian Lodge, Longji<br />

Zhuang minority, Longji<br />

LIAN LODGE, LONGJI<br />

Perched amongst the rice terraces of Longji, the<br />

Lian Lodge has fantastic views over the famous<br />

Dragon’s Backbone terraces, constructed by the<br />

forefathers of the current villagers. The 16<br />

individually designed rooms offer comfortable<br />

accommodation in an unspoilt setting.<br />

Wind and rain bridge, Chengyang<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 23


21st Century China<br />

Skyline, Shanghai<br />

Many visitors to China are attracted by the<br />

ancient temples and timeless villages, or visions<br />

of the Great Wall snaking across the vast<br />

landscape. However, as China has developed it<br />

has embraced modernity in a big way. Some of<br />

the world’s most cutting edge art, architecture,<br />

design and engineering can be found in the<br />

Middle Kingdom.<br />

The Maglev<br />

The fastest running commercial train in the<br />

world, Shanghai’s Maglev train speeds between<br />

the city’s Pudong airport and the city centre,<br />

reaching a top speed of 431 kilometres per<br />

hour. The train operates using magnetic<br />

levitation – a series of ultra powerful magnets<br />

which propel it. If you are leaving or arriving in<br />

the city via Pudong airport, we can arrange for<br />

you to take a ride on the Maglev. Each carriage<br />

has a speedometer so you can see when top<br />

speed is achieved!<br />

Maglev high speed train, Shanghai<br />

Young people, Shanghai<br />

88 Xintiandi, Shanghai<br />

88 XINTIANDI, SHANGHAI<br />

On the edge of the French Concession, the<br />

Xintiandi district of Shanghai is the place to be,<br />

where Shanghainese come to see and be seen.<br />

88 Xintiandi is a small contemporary boutique<br />

hotel with just 53 rooms, each with a modern<br />

take on traditional Chinese design. Some rooms<br />

have pleasant views over an adjacent lake and<br />

park. While there is no in-house bar or<br />

restaurant, there is plenty of choice within a<br />

few minute’s walk of the hotel.<br />

THE PULI, SHANGHAI<br />

Billing itself as ‘the world’s first urban resort’<br />

The Puli impresses with its ambition. The hotel<br />

aims to combine the convenience of a city<br />

centre location with the peace and tranquillity of<br />

a luxury out of town resort – the best of both<br />

worlds. There are extensive spa facilities as well<br />

as discreet, impeccable service. Rooms are some<br />

of Shanghai’s largest, extremely well equipped<br />

and thoughtfully designed. These and the public<br />

spaces are all finished with the highest quality of<br />

materials and, in a nod to China’s past, the<br />

reception area’s floor tiles are made by the<br />

same company that made the tiles of the<br />

Forbidden City in Beijing.<br />

The Puli, Shanghai<br />

24


Bird’s Nest Stadium<br />

Artist’s studio, 798 Art District, Beijing<br />

798 Art Zone, Beijing<br />

Not something that most visitors necessarily<br />

associate with China, Beijing has a thriving<br />

modern art movement that is becoming<br />

increasingly significant on the world stage. The<br />

scene’s epicentre is a vast industrial complex<br />

built in the 1950s as a joint venture between<br />

East Germany, Russia and China (798 refers to<br />

factory 798, part of the complex). Following the<br />

removal of state subsidies, most of the factories<br />

in the complex were shut, and in the mid 1990s,<br />

Beijing’s artistic community moved in. Since then,<br />

the area’s popularity has exploded, and the<br />

former industrial zone is now home to hundreds<br />

of galleries, lofts, studios, and designers, as well<br />

as the associated upmarket boutiques and cafes.<br />

In addition to seeing some fantastic art, a visit<br />

to 798 Art Zone will really underline the<br />

complexities and contradictions of modern China.<br />

The Olympic Park<br />

For many in China, the hosting of the Olympic<br />

Games in 2008 signalled the nation's arrival back<br />

on the world stage. The cutting edge designs of<br />

the Olympic Park buildings in Beijing are unlike<br />

any in the world, let alone in China. Chinese<br />

visitors to the capital flock to the Olympic<br />

Village to marvel at these masterpieces of<br />

modern architecture. Whilst decidedly 21st<br />

century in design, some of the buildings<br />

nevertheless still offer a nod to Chinese<br />

traditions and heritage – the stadium’s shape has<br />

been likened to a Bird’s Nest, in homage to that<br />

special delicacy of Chinese cuisine. We can<br />

arrange a trip out to the Olympic Park,<br />

alternatively it’s possible to combine a visit to<br />

the park with the Summer Palace.<br />

National Grand Theatre Opera House, Beijing<br />

Opposite House, Beijing<br />

THE OPPOSITE HOUSE, BEIJING<br />

One of Beijing’s most cutting edge hotels, The<br />

Opposite House is a stylish place for your stay<br />

in the city. With just 98 rooms, the hotel has a<br />

boutique, intimate feel to it, but with three<br />

restaurants, a beautiful cocktail bar, as well as a<br />

pool and spa facilities, guests are spoilt for<br />

choice. The strikingly designed emerald green<br />

building (by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma)<br />

resembles a vast wooden lattice. The glass<br />

construction makes for light, airy rooms, which<br />

are all of a generous size. Located in the<br />

embassy district of the city, there is a great<br />

selection of restaurants, bars and cafes within<br />

a short stroll of the hotel.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 25


Beijing<br />

Xian<br />

Shanghai<br />

Guilin<br />

Longi<br />

Yangshuo<br />

Old men playing cards, Beijing<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our China specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 220<br />

Getting around<br />

Most visitors to China arrive in one city and fly<br />

home from another, with Beijing, Shanghai and<br />

Hong Kong being the major entry and exit points.<br />

We generally structure an itinerary starting in<br />

the north and working south, or vice versa.<br />

Once in China, its vast size generally necessitates<br />

flying between the different regions. China’s<br />

domestic airlines have been transformed in<br />

recent years, and though schedules remain a little<br />

unreliable, the quality of the aircraft, service and<br />

overall experience has improved immeasurably.<br />

Train travel is an option between some<br />

destinations, but given the distances this is<br />

almost always overnight.<br />

Great Wall, Beijing<br />

26<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

China is a huge country with a wide range of<br />

climates. Spring and autumn are the best times<br />

of year to visit, when you are most likely to have<br />

clear blue skies and comfortable temperatures,<br />

though you might see a little rain in the south in<br />

spring. In summer, sites are less busy and prices<br />

are better value – but it can be a little humid,<br />

especially in the south. Air conditioning is<br />

offered in most hotels and vehicles though.<br />

Winter is cold, especially in the more northerly<br />

cities of Beijing and Xian, though Shanghai is<br />

more temperate.<br />

Time difference: GMT+7 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 10 hours<br />

Beach extensions<br />

If you’re looking to finish your trip to China with<br />

some time to relax on a beach, there are a<br />

number of options. China’s tropical island of<br />

Hainan is easily accessible from many Chinese<br />

cities, and can be visited more or less year round.<br />

Alternatively, the beaches of Thailand are easily<br />

reached from Hong Kong.<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />

prices for your trip to China on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Classic China<br />

This two week itinerary takes in some of the<br />

classic sites of China, ideal for the first time visitor.<br />

As well as seeing some of China’s icons such as<br />

the Great Wall and the Terracotta Warriors, you’ll<br />

also take in the beautiful scenery of the Guilin area,<br />

and get a taste of life in rural China in the village of<br />

Longji. You’ll also spend time in Shanghai, very<br />

much the city of China’s future.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />

Relax and recover from your flight, in<br />

the afternoon take in the Forbidden<br />

City and Tiananmen Square.<br />

See the Temple of Heaven and the<br />

Summer Palace.<br />

Leave the city to see one of China’s<br />

iconic sites – the Great Wall.<br />

In the morning take a rickshaw ride<br />

around Beijing’s Hutong districts,<br />

before flying onto Xian.<br />

Day 6 Head out to Xian’s star attraction –<br />

the Terracotta Army.<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Stay longer<br />

Fly to Guilin.<br />

Take a cruise up the River Li to the<br />

pretty town of Yangshuo.<br />

Head to the village of Longji.<br />

After a walk amongst the rice<br />

terraces return to the airport and fly<br />

to Shanghai.<br />

A day in Shanghai.<br />

Continue to explore Shanghai.<br />

Fly back to the UK, arriving later the<br />

same day.<br />

If you have more time, you could spend a few<br />

nights in Hong Kong. Alternatively add on time in<br />

Chengdu to see the Pandas.


Suggested itineraries<br />

Beijing<br />

Beijing<br />

Beijing<br />

Xian<br />

Xian<br />

Chongqing<br />

Yichang<br />

Shanghai<br />

Chengdu<br />

Zhongdian<br />

Lijiang<br />

Kunming<br />

Guilin<br />

Longji<br />

Yangshuo<br />

Xian<br />

Shanghai<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Yangtze Classic<br />

This itinerary combines China’s classic sites of<br />

Beijing, Xian and Shanghai with a journey along the<br />

great Yangtze River. A cruise on the Yangtze is a<br />

great way to break up the journey and<br />

contemplate some of the world class sites that you<br />

will have seen at the start of your trip.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Days 8-9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Stay longer<br />

Fly from London to Beijing.<br />

Relax and recover from your flight,<br />

in the afternoon take in Tiananmen<br />

Square and the Forbidden City.<br />

See the Temple of Heaven. In the<br />

afternoon, visit the Summer Palace.<br />

Leave the city to see one of China’s<br />

iconic sites – the Great Wall.<br />

Take a rickshaw ride around Beijing’s<br />

Hutong districts, then fly to Xian.<br />

Explore the incredible Terracotta<br />

Army, and visit the Shaanxi Museum<br />

in the afternoon.<br />

Fly to Chongqing for your<br />

Yangtze cruise<br />

Float down the Yangtze and take in<br />

the beautiful scenery.<br />

Arrive into Yichang, from where you<br />

fly on to Shanghai.<br />

Explore the metropolis of Shanghai<br />

at your own pace.<br />

A final day at leisure in Shanghai.<br />

Fly back to the UK, arriving later the<br />

same day.<br />

With three more nights, you could also see some<br />

of the beautiful scenery of the Guilin region; for<br />

those that prefer cities you could also finish with<br />

time in Hong Kong.<br />

Magnificent China<br />

This comprehensive, 19 day itinerary takes in many<br />

different and contrasting parts of the Middle<br />

Kingdom, including time in Yunnan province. It is<br />

ideally suited to those with a little more time to<br />

really get under the skin of this vast country.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />

Relax and recover from your flight,<br />

in the afternoon take in Tiananmen<br />

Square and the Forbidden City.<br />

See the Temple of Heaven and in the<br />

afternoon the Summer Palace.<br />

Visit the Great Wall.<br />

Take a rickshaw ride around<br />

Beijing’s Hutong districts before<br />

flying on to Chengdu.<br />

Visit Chengdu’s panda research<br />

station before flying to Xian.<br />

Day 7 Head out to Xian’s star attraction –<br />

the Terracotta Warriors.<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Day 18<br />

Fly on to Guilin.<br />

Take a cruise up the River Li to the<br />

pretty town of Yangshuo.<br />

Take a tour of the surrounding<br />

countryside by foot, car or bike.<br />

Head to the village of Longji.<br />

After a walk amongst rice terraces,<br />

fly on to Lijiang.<br />

Explore the old town of Lijiang, and<br />

the picturesque Black Dragon Pond.<br />

Visit Jade Dragon Mountain.<br />

Drive to Zhongdian with your guide,<br />

stopping at Tiger Leaping Gorge on<br />

the way.<br />

Visit Songzanlin Monastery.<br />

Fly to Hong Kong, via Kunming.<br />

After a day to explore Hong Kong,<br />

take an evening flight back to the UK.<br />

China City Sling<br />

This itinerary mixes the ancient and the modern in<br />

three of China’s best known cities. Start in Beijing<br />

and take in some of the contrasts here – such as<br />

the ancient Forbidden City and the decidedly 21st<br />

century Bird’s Nest stadium. Move on to Xian to<br />

see the Terracotta Warriors, before finishing up<br />

in Shanghai.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />

Relax and recover from your flight,<br />

in the afternoon take in Tiananmen<br />

Square and the Forbidden City.<br />

In the morning see the Summer<br />

Palace and the Olympic Park. In the<br />

afternoon, visit Beijing’s up and<br />

coming 798 district of modern art.<br />

Leave the city to see one of<br />

China’s iconic sites – the Great Wall.<br />

Take a walk along a section to truly<br />

appreciate it’s magnitude.<br />

Fly to Xian. Visit the Shaanxi Museum<br />

for an overview of China’s history<br />

and in the evening take a walk in<br />

Xian’s vibrant Muslim quarter.<br />

Visit the incredible Terracotta Army,<br />

before flying to Shanghai.<br />

Spend the day exploring China’s<br />

fastest growing city.<br />

Contrast the modern metropolis<br />

of Shanghai with a day trip to the<br />

town of Suzhou, with its pretty<br />

formal gardens.<br />

Take the fastest train in the world,<br />

the Maglev, to the airport for your<br />

return flight, touching down in the<br />

UK later the same day.<br />

Stay longer<br />

There are many ways to extend this taste of China<br />

if you have more time. Spend a few days in Hong<br />

Kong to finish the trip off, or alternatively take in<br />

some of the scenic highlights of the Guilin region.<br />

Day 19<br />

Early arrival into the UK.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 27


Yunnan<br />

Tucked away in the southwest corner<br />

of the country, Yunnan province is a<br />

long way from Beijing, and it shows.<br />

There’s a different atmosphere here, and the<br />

onward march of progress has not quite<br />

permeated this region to the same extent as<br />

elsewhere in China. Neighbouring Tibet,<br />

Laos and Vietnam have exerted more of an<br />

influence than the capital, making for a<br />

rich mix of different minority cultures<br />

whose traditions are still very much alive.<br />

Here it’s not unusual to see people wearing<br />

traditional costume, not for the benefit of<br />

visitors, but just because that’s the way<br />

they’ve always dressed. This variety of<br />

cultures is matched by an extraordinary<br />

climatic and scenic diversity. The south of<br />

the province, near the Vietnamese border<br />

has semi-tropical forest, and year round<br />

warm temperatures. In the north the<br />

altitude rapidly increases towards the<br />

Tibetan plateau, which lies partly in<br />

Yunnan at 3,000 metres. You are<br />

surrounded by enormous craggy mountain<br />

peaks of over 6,000 metres as you near the<br />

border with Tibet – these giants are the<br />

foothills of the Himalayas.<br />

28


<strong>Audley</strong> in Yunnan<br />

4<br />

5<br />

2<br />

3<br />

1<br />

6<br />

7<br />

We have long been fans of Yunnan and<br />

while other operators may cover the<br />

destination, none know it as we do. Some<br />

of the key places to visit in Yunnan have<br />

become more popular over the years,<br />

especially with Chinese visitors. However,<br />

we have travelled to places a little more off<br />

the beaten track, discovering the best routes<br />

to take, and the most comfortable places to<br />

stay. Our pioneering knowledge will ensure<br />

you truly get under the skin of this beguiling<br />

part of China. We also have experience of<br />

combining Yunnan with the neighbouring<br />

countries of Vietnam, Laos and Burma.<br />

Furthermore, with so many different<br />

minorities in the region, having a local guide<br />

to explain the heritage and traditions of<br />

each can really bring a trip to life. Where<br />

possible we offer guides who are members<br />

of the minority group of the area in which<br />

you are staying.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Erhai lake, Dali<br />

1 Dali<br />

Marvel at the pretty white<br />

headdresses of the Bai minority<br />

and take in ancient pagodas.<br />

2 Lijiang<br />

A remarkably well preserved<br />

Naxi minority town, with a<br />

lively old town.<br />

3 Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />

One of the world’s deepest<br />

gorges, can be tackled as a day<br />

trip or as an overnight trek.<br />

Town square, Shaxi<br />

4 Tibetan culture in<br />

Zhongdian<br />

5 Shaxi<br />

Tibetan people form the<br />

majority in this part of Yunnan.<br />

Visit ancient monasteries and<br />

stop for a cup of yak butter tea<br />

6<br />

at a Tibetan family’s house.<br />

Tibetan chorten, Zhongdian<br />

Rice terraces, Yuanyang<br />

Once a stop on tea trading<br />

routes, this village is best visited<br />

on market day.<br />

Lake Lugu<br />

The centre of the Mosu<br />

minority, the last practising<br />

matriarchal society in the world,<br />

this beautiful lake glistens on the<br />

Yunnan – Sichuan border.<br />

7 Yuanyang rice terraces<br />

These centuries old rice<br />

terraces unfold as far as the<br />

eye can see, hewn from the<br />

rolling topography by the local<br />

Hani minority.<br />

This part of China has a number of small,<br />

characterful guesthouses – all clean and<br />

comfortable with en suite facilities, but not<br />

offering the full range of services of a hotel.<br />

At the other end of the scale, there are<br />

some extremely luxurious hotels for those<br />

looking to indulge themselves. In between<br />

these two options there is not so much<br />

choice – but new establishments are opening<br />

all the time, so ask your specialist for the<br />

most up to date information.<br />

Naxi women, Lijiang<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Yunnan, please<br />

see pages 36-37.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our China<br />

specialists 01993 838 220<br />

China 29


Three Pagodas, Dali<br />

Bai lady, Dali<br />

Kunming<br />

Renowned for its delicious noodles and delightful<br />

teahouses, Kunming, the ‘City of Eternal Spring’ is<br />

likely to be your entry and exit point into Yunnan<br />

Province. It’s a pleasant enough city, but if you’re<br />

pushed for time, you might consider just passing<br />

through here. For those who do have the time,<br />

there are some bustling regional markets. Near<br />

Kunming is the stone forest, Shilin, a bizarre<br />

landscape of strange karst geology. This is very<br />

popular with Chinese visitors though and can<br />

be busy at times.<br />

30<br />

Dali<br />

Nestling beside picturesque Erhai lake is the<br />

town of Dali. As capital of the great Bai kingdom,<br />

this was the city that ruled over much of the<br />

surrounding region. Although its significance has<br />

waned, the area has retained a wealth of<br />

traditional Bai architecture set amongst pretty<br />

scenery. The lake is alive with small wooden<br />

fishing boats, and has picturesque shores dotted<br />

with villages and local markets. Nearby, the small<br />

town of Xizhou, on Dali’s fertile plain, is a perfect<br />

example of Bai architecture and culture, its superb<br />

market bright with Bai women beautifully attired<br />

in colourful traditional costume, old men drawing<br />

on long wooden pipes and elderly women selling<br />

traditional medicines. Behind Dali and overlooking<br />

the lake, the beautiful Three Pagodas have been<br />

watching over the town for well over a thousand<br />

years – surviving earthquakes, landslides,<br />

revolutions and modernisation.<br />

Fisherman on Erhai Lake, Dali<br />

Linden Centre rooftop, near Dali<br />

Linden Centre, near Dali<br />

LINDEN CENTRE, NEAR DALI<br />

Located in the small Bai village of Xizhou, The<br />

Linden Centre is a unique place to stay. Away<br />

from the centre of Dali, you can really get a feel<br />

for a different side of China in this small, unspoilt<br />

village. Set in a traditional Bai house around a<br />

number of courtyards, the 14 rooms are<br />

comfortable, with designs inspired by Bai culture.<br />

There is a pleasant rooftop terrace with views<br />

over the surrounding fields – perfect for relaxing<br />

on with a drink at the end of the day.


Old town, Lijiang<br />

Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />

Card players, Lijiang old town<br />

Shaxi<br />

The area around Dali and Lijiang is rich with<br />

villages unchanged for centuries, sleepy market<br />

towns and pretty, rural country scenes. The jewel<br />

in the crown is the village of Shaxi – an important<br />

stopping point on the fabled ‘tea-horse road’. This<br />

was a trade route from the south of Yunnan to<br />

present day Tibet, through central China, Burma,<br />

India and beyond, along which ‘black gold’ (tea)<br />

was transported. The village grew rich during the<br />

14th century Ming dynasty, which is when many<br />

of the village buildings date from. These days<br />

Shaxi is mercifully free of visitors, and Friday's<br />

market sees a plethora of different minorities trek<br />

into town to sell their wares and stock up on<br />

provisions. You can stay in one of a handful of<br />

small, traditional guesthouses, or alternatively visit<br />

as a day trip from Dali or Lijiang.<br />

Lijiang<br />

Nestled beneath the snowy peaks of the Jade<br />

Dragon Mountain, the narrow cobbled streets of<br />

Old Lijiang run with the clear waters of mountain<br />

streams. This region is the stronghold<br />

of the Naxi people, whose culture combines<br />

shamanism with a unique pictographic alphabet.<br />

The remarkably well preserved old town is<br />

popular with Chinese visitors – but by sticking<br />

more to the backstreets and by waking early in<br />

the morning the crowds can be easily avoided.<br />

Buddhist temple, Shaxi<br />

Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />

Tiger Leaping<br />

Gorge trek<br />

One of the natural wonders of the<br />

world, Tiger Leaping Gorge was formed<br />

by the Jinsha River forcing its way<br />

between the towering Jade Dragon and<br />

Haba Mountains. According to tradition a<br />

tiger once leapt across the gorge, which<br />

is only 30 metres wide at its narrowest<br />

point. The gorge can be visited as a great<br />

day trip, though those with the time and<br />

energy for a two-day hike can explore<br />

the region in much greater depth.<br />

Staying overnight in a local guesthouse<br />

in the centre of the gorge itself is an<br />

unforgettable experience.<br />

BANYAN TREE, LIJIANG<br />

With the snow-capped Jade Dragon Mountain as<br />

its backdrop, the Banyan Tree Lijiang offers a<br />

restful, tranquil base for exploring the delights of<br />

Lijiang. We especially recommend the beautiful<br />

private villas inspired by local Naxi architecture,<br />

many with their own plunge pools and private<br />

gardens with views towards the mountains. There<br />

is a well equipped oriental themed spa, as well as<br />

numerous Chinese and Western restaurants.<br />

The centre of Lijiang is easily reached by taxi –<br />

a number are always waiting outside the hotel.<br />

View from Banyan Tree, Lijiang<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 31


The minority peoples of Yunnan<br />

Dai people haggling at Xizhou market, near Dali<br />

Yunnan’s location as the crossroads of Asia<br />

means that it is a melting pot of different<br />

cultures, containing well over half of China’s<br />

minority population. Its sheer size and relative<br />

geographic isolation means that each minority<br />

group has its own distinct language, custom and<br />

culture. The colourful headdresses, local markets<br />

and distinct dishes of each different minority are<br />

a joy to discover and one of the main reasons<br />

for visiting Yunnan.<br />

Bai<br />

The Bai people are long established in the<br />

region and ruled over parts of present day<br />

southwestern China, before eventually<br />

succumbing to the invading Mongol hordes in<br />

the 14th century. Bai means white in the Bai<br />

people’s language, a name they give themselves<br />

because of their reverence of the colour white.<br />

The Bai number around 1.5 million in total,<br />

with most living in or around Dali.<br />

Naxi<br />

The Naxi are descended from Tibetan tribes<br />

who came to settle in the area around 1,400<br />

years ago. They are centred around the town<br />

of Lijiang, but are spread throughout the north<br />

of Yunnan and up towards Tibet. Naxi culture<br />

is dominated by Dongba, shamans who preach<br />

harmony between nature and mankind, and<br />

who act as mediators between the Naxi and the<br />

spirit world. Until relatively recently, the Naxi<br />

lived along matriarchal lines, and the dominance<br />

of women is evident in their language. Nouns<br />

with the word female added implies something<br />

bigger or more important, while nouns with the<br />

word male added implies something smaller or<br />

less important. Thus the Naxi word for ‘stone’<br />

plus female means boulder; ‘stone’ plus male<br />

means pebble.<br />

Tibetan<br />

The Tibetan people are spread far outside<br />

Tibet’s present day borders, into the provinces<br />

of Sichuan, Qinghai and Yunnan. In the north<br />

of Yunnan, around the city of Zhongdian<br />

(or Gyalthang in Tibetan, also known as<br />

Shangri-La) and beyond, Tibetans form the<br />

majority. You will see signs in Tibetan, Chinese,<br />

and English up here, but the language most<br />

widely spoken is Tibetan. There is a devoutness<br />

of belief to be found among the Tibetans that<br />

is rarely found elsewhere in Yunnan, let alone<br />

China. Monasteries and stupas abound,<br />

especially in the countryside, and monks are<br />

to be seen everywhere.<br />

Mosu<br />

One of the last matriarchal societies in the<br />

world, the Mosu are centred around Lugu Lake,<br />

on the border between Sichuan and Yunnan<br />

provinces. Seen by some as a subset of the<br />

Naxi, they nevertheless have their own distinct<br />

culture and customs. Property passes through<br />

the female line, the woman is the head of the<br />

household, and business decisions are generally<br />

made by the woman of the house. Political<br />

power, however, remains with men, so strictly<br />

speaking the Mosu are best described as<br />

matrilineal rather than matriarchal.<br />

Mosu woman, Lake Lugu<br />

32


Tibetan ladies building a house, Zhongdian<br />

Hani girl, Yuangyang<br />

Yi lady, en route to Lake Lugu<br />

Naxi lady, Lijiang<br />

Pumi ladies visiting the market, Shaxi<br />

Yi<br />

The Yi people are one of the largest minority<br />

groups in China, numbering around eight million.<br />

Unlike other minorities they have no distinct<br />

centre, and so are less visible. You are likely to<br />

encounter them on journeys between towns<br />

as they mostly live in rural, mountainous areas,<br />

carving out a living away from population<br />

centres.<br />

Until the 1950s, the Yi were a slave society,<br />

made up of Black Li, who owned most of the<br />

land, White Li who didn’t have freedom of<br />

movement, and around 40% Ajia and Gaxi Li,<br />

who were slaves. Until the region was subdued,<br />

the Yi went on frequent raids into Han territory<br />

to capture slaves. With the coming of<br />

communism, the Yi were forced to give up<br />

their slave society, and these days most Yi are<br />

farmers or nomadic hunters. Only around a<br />

third are literate, and most are extremely<br />

poor. As a result they tend to face prejudice<br />

and discrimination.<br />

Dai, Pumi and Hani<br />

There are 25 different recognised minorities in<br />

Yunnan. Some other notable ones include: the<br />

Dai who are closely related to Thai people,<br />

centred around Xishuangbanna in the south of<br />

Yunnan, and known for their extremely spicy<br />

food; the Pumi who are heavily influenced by<br />

Tibetan culture and centred around Lijiang; and<br />

the Hani. Centred around the far south of<br />

Yunnan, the Hani built the famous rice terraces<br />

of Yuanyang and have a striking blue costume.<br />

Dai grandmother, Xishuangbanna<br />

Naxi men, Lijiang<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 33


Songzanlin Monastery, Zhongdian<br />

Walking near Zhongdian<br />

Walking and trekking<br />

around Zhongdian<br />

High on the Tibetan plateau, studded<br />

with a plethora of peaks over 6,000<br />

metres, the area around Zhongdian has<br />

some great trekking opportunities.<br />

There are a variety of options, from an<br />

easy half day’s stroll through gently<br />

rolling hills dotted with Tibetan villages,<br />

to more rigorous full day treks. For<br />

those of a hardy nature, two or three<br />

day treks staying in local houses or<br />

simple guesthouses take you right up<br />

near the Tibetan border. Whichever you<br />

choose, you are likely to pass through<br />

Tibetan villages at some point, and may<br />

even be invited in to a villager’s house<br />

for a cup of yak butter tea, something<br />

of an acquired taste!<br />

Zhongdian<br />

Nestling at 3,200 metres on the edge of the<br />

Tibetan plateau is one of the most important<br />

Lamaist monasteries outside Tibet. The 300 year<br />

old Songzanlin Monastery, home to around 600<br />

monks, dominates the outskirts of the town of<br />

Zhongdian. Renamed ‘Shangri-la’ after James<br />

Hilton’s mythical mountain paradise, the city is<br />

also known by its Tibetan name of Gyalthang.<br />

The surrounding countryside is dotted with<br />

Tibetan villages and, with the majority of the<br />

population being Tibetan, this really feels like a<br />

different country. It’s certainly as close as you can<br />

get to Tibet (both culturally and geographically)<br />

without the rigours of travelling there.<br />

BANYAN TREE, RINGHA<br />

To the north, in a secluded valley on the<br />

edge of the Tibetan plateau, the Banyan Tree<br />

Ringha has reconstructed original Tibetan<br />

farmhouses to create sumptuous lodges and<br />

suites in one of the most glorious regions of<br />

the country. Around a 20 minute drive from the<br />

city of Zhongdian, the resort is a unique place<br />

from which to explore local Tibetan culture.<br />

For the active, hiking and horse-riding can be<br />

arranged into the spectacular surrounding<br />

mountains; for the not so active there are<br />

luxurious spa facilities.<br />

Dhondrupling Monastery<br />

and the road to Deqin<br />

There are numerous sites of interest which can<br />

be combined into a day trip from Zhongdian.<br />

Dhondrupling Monastery houses around 300<br />

monks and receives few visitors, making it more<br />

peaceful and tranquil than the main Songzanlin<br />

Monastery in Zhongdian. The monks are happy<br />

to receive visitors and show them around. On the<br />

way to the monastery is the village of Nixi, famed<br />

for its production of pottery and well worth a<br />

stop. You’ll be following a tributary of the Yangtze<br />

for much of the journey, with superb scenery and<br />

many opportunities for photo stops. Continuing<br />

on this road brings you to Deqin, the last town<br />

before Tibet. The town itself has little of interest<br />

but is a starting point for those looking to do<br />

some trekking in the area, and has stunning views<br />

of Mt Kawa Karpo – at 6,740 metres one of the<br />

highest mountains in the area.<br />

34<br />

Banyan Tree, Ringha, Zhongdian


Lake Lugu<br />

Yuanyang and the south<br />

of Yunnan<br />

Lige village, Lake Lugu<br />

Lake Lugu<br />

Lake Lugu sparkles like a jewel on the border<br />

between Yunnan province and neighbouring<br />

Sichuan. At 2,685 metres the air is clear and<br />

the views pristine. The lake is home to the<br />

Mosu people, one of the world’s last practising<br />

matriarchal societies. There are numerous villages<br />

dotted around the lake, one or two of which are<br />

starting to attract Chinese visitors. We suggest<br />

staying in one of the quieter villages, where there<br />

are simple guesthouses with en suite facilities.<br />

Once at the lake we can arrange gentle walks<br />

to other Mosu villages in the area, trips to local<br />

markets, boat trips on the lake in a traditional<br />

dugout canoe, or you can just relax and take in<br />

the beautiful views. This area is remote and<br />

unspoilt by development, for now. The journey<br />

winding through the mountains from Lijiang is a<br />

spectacular one, with a good paved road.<br />

In the southeast of Yunnan you pass through<br />

one of China’s most dramatic landscapes. Sculpted<br />

rice terraces cling to the undulating hillsides, their<br />

glittering waters dancing with the brilliant reflected<br />

sunlight. This is the remote area of Yuanyang,<br />

home to the Hani people whose distinctive<br />

triangular thatched homes are clustered in villages<br />

which are fascinating to visit. To the southwest<br />

is the region of Xishuangbanna, with its capital<br />

Jinghong. The name Xishuangbanna derives from<br />

the Thai ‘Sip Sawng Panna’, meaning the ‘12 Rice-<br />

Growing Districts’, demonstrating the cultural and<br />

geographical links between this part of China and<br />

its neighbours. There are countless colourful<br />

temples to visit on the roads between Menghai,<br />

Mengla and Menghun, with plenty of opportunities<br />

to drop in at local markets and minority villages to<br />

gain an insight into the people and the cultures of<br />

this remote and unique part of China.<br />

Local market, Menghun<br />

Rice terraces, Yuanyang<br />

Overland journeys<br />

from Yunnan<br />

For the adventurous, there are numerous<br />

possibilities for overland journeys from or to<br />

Yunnan province. <strong>Travel</strong> to Lake Lugu from<br />

Xichang in Sichuan province, passing remote,<br />

untouched villages. Alternatively, the journey from<br />

Zhongdian to Tibet is for the more hardened<br />

traveller, but you will be rewarded with<br />

spectacular scenery. A more popular overland<br />

journey is to travel south through Yunnan and<br />

cross the border into Vietnam. There are also<br />

options to travel along the historic World War II<br />

supply route, the Burma Road, into Burma, or to<br />

cross into Laos at the border in the<br />

Xishuangbanna region.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 35


Zhongdian<br />

CHINA<br />

BURMA<br />

Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />

Shaxi<br />

Lijiang<br />

Dali<br />

Kunming<br />

Yunnan Discovered<br />

This 14 day trip takes you to some of the main<br />

highlights of pretty Yunnan province, including Dali,<br />

Lijiang, and the Tibetan town of Zhongdian, as<br />

well as exploring some of the minority villages<br />

in the region.<br />

Two generations of Naxi women, Lijiang<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

When to go<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Fly to Hong Kong overnight.<br />

Arrive into Hong Kong in the<br />

morning and connect with a flight<br />

to Kunming.<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our China specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 220<br />

Getting around<br />

Flights to the region all go through Kunming, the<br />

provincal capital, connecting on to the rest of<br />

China, including Hong Kong. Within Yunnan, we<br />

generally make use of a private car to enjoy the<br />

fantastic scenery. Roads within and between the<br />

main cities are of good quality, well maintained<br />

and smooth. The more remote you get the more<br />

the roads deteriorate, but new roads are being<br />

built all the time, and for most destinations<br />

mentioned here, roads are of a reasonable quality.<br />

Children playing, Kunming<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Yunnan has a diverse climate to match its diverse<br />

geography. Dali, and especially Lijiang, tend to<br />

receive a lot of rain from June to mid-September,<br />

so spring and autumn are the best times of year<br />

to visit. Zhongdian, in the north can be chilly in<br />

the months of April and September, and is<br />

snowbound over the winter months. Visits to the<br />

south are possible at any time of year, though in<br />

the summer months it will be hot and sticky with<br />

rain. The rice terraces of Yuanyang are at their<br />

most spectacular between December and<br />

February, when there is no rice growing.<br />

Time difference: GMT+7 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 10 hours<br />

Beach extensions<br />

If you’re looking to finish your trip to China with<br />

some time to relax on a beach, there are a<br />

number of options. China’s tropical island of<br />

Hainan is easily accessible, with direct flights from<br />

Kunming. Alternatively, the beaches of Thailand<br />

can be reached via Hong Kong.<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />

prices for your trip to China on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to<br />

discuss your plans.<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Drive or fly to Dali, with the rest of<br />

the day to relax.<br />

Explore Dali’s old town, as well as<br />

the Three Pagodas, which overlook<br />

the town.<br />

Take a cruise on Lake Erhai.<br />

Drive out to the village of Shaxi,<br />

passing through pretty rural<br />

countryside on the way.<br />

Spend time in the village, before<br />

driving further north to Lijiang,<br />

stopping off at the holy Buddhist<br />

mountain of Shibaoshan on the way.<br />

Spend the morning exploring Lijiang’s<br />

old town. In the afternoon stroll<br />

around the picturesque Black<br />

Dragon Pond.<br />

Take in the views from the Jade<br />

Dragon Mountain. In the afternoon<br />

stop off in the small village of Baisha<br />

to see some ancient frescos.<br />

Drive on to Zhongdian, stopping at<br />

the spectacular Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />

on the way.<br />

Visit the Songzanlin Monastery<br />

before taking a walk in the hills<br />

outside Zhongdian.<br />

See the pretty monastery of<br />

Dhondrupling; on the way back stop<br />

off in a Tibetan village for a cup of<br />

yak butter tea.<br />

Fly back to Hong Kong via Kunming,<br />

where you connect with your<br />

UK flight.<br />

Early morning arrival in London.<br />

36


Suggested itineraries<br />

Beijing<br />

CHINA<br />

Zhongdian<br />

Lake Lugu<br />

Xian<br />

BURMA<br />

Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />

Zhongdian<br />

Lijiang<br />

Kunming<br />

Guilin<br />

Longji<br />

Yangshuo<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Shaxi<br />

Dali<br />

Lijiang<br />

Lijiang<br />

Dali<br />

Kunming<br />

Guilin<br />

Guiyang<br />

Kaili<br />

Longji<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Kunming<br />

Classic China and Yunnan<br />

This 19 day trip combines some of the classic sites<br />

of China – Beijing, Xian, and the karst scenery<br />

around Guilin, with a taste of Yunnan, for a trip<br />

that will be varied both culturally and scenically.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Day 18<br />

Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />

Relax and recover from your flight,<br />

and take in Tiananmen Square and<br />

the Forbidden City.<br />

Take a day trip to the Great Wall.<br />

See the Temple of Heaven and in the<br />

afternoon, visit the Summer Palace.<br />

Fly on to Xian. Visit the Shaanxi<br />

Museum and in the evening take a<br />

walk in Xian’s vibrant Muslim quarter.<br />

Visit the Terracotta warriors. In the<br />

afternoon fly to Lijiang via Kunming.<br />

Explore Lijiang’s old town and the<br />

picturesque Black Dragon Pond.<br />

Take in the views from the top of<br />

Jade Dragon Mountain. In the<br />

afternoon stop off in the small village<br />

of Baisha.<br />

Drive on to Zhongdian, via the Tiger<br />

Leaping Gorge on the way.<br />

Visit the Songzanlin Monastery before<br />

taking a walk in the hills.<br />

See the pretty monastery of<br />

Dhondrupling.<br />

Fly to Guilin via Kunming.<br />

Take a cruise up the River Li to the<br />

pretty town of Yangshuo.<br />

Take a tour of the surrounding<br />

countryside by foot, car or bike.<br />

Head to the village of Longji.<br />

After a walk amongst rice terraces, fly<br />

to Hong Kong.<br />

Spend the day exploring Hong Kong<br />

before taking an overnight flight back<br />

to the UK.<br />

Early arrival into the UK.<br />

Yunnan Explorer<br />

This comprehensive trip around China’s Yunnan<br />

province is ideal for those who want to really get<br />

under the skin of this diverse province. Taking in<br />

Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Lake Lugu, and the Tibetan<br />

town of Zhongdian, you’ll see many different<br />

minorities and a variety of beautiful scenery.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Day 18<br />

Fly to Hong Kong overnight.<br />

Arrive in Hong Kong in the morning<br />

and fly on to Kunming.<br />

Drive or fly to Dali.<br />

Spend today exploring Dali’s old town,<br />

as well as the Three Pagodas, which<br />

overlook the town.<br />

Take a cruise on Erhai lake.<br />

Drive out to the village of Shaxi.<br />

This drive will take you into the<br />

countryside, through villages and<br />

rice paddies.<br />

Spend time in the village, before<br />

driving further north to Lijiang.<br />

Spend the morning exploring Lijiang.<br />

In the afternoon stroll around the<br />

picturesque Black Dragon Pond.<br />

Take in the views from the Jade<br />

Dragon Mountain, and see the well<br />

preserved frescos in the small village<br />

of Baisha.<br />

Drive on to Lake Lugu – a stunningly<br />

picturesque journey.<br />

Have time around Lake Lugu – visit<br />

some minority villages, go walking or<br />

even horseriding.<br />

Return to Lijiang, retracing your steps.<br />

Drive to the village of Daju to start<br />

your Tiger Leaping Gorge trek.<br />

Finish the trek and drive on to<br />

Zhongdian.<br />

Visit the Songzanlin Monastery. In the<br />

afternoon take a short walk in the hills<br />

outside Zhongdian.<br />

Drive out into the mountains to see<br />

the pretty monastery of Dhondrupling.<br />

Fly back to Hong Kong via Kunming,<br />

where you connect back to the UK.<br />

Early morning arrival into London.<br />

Villages of the Southwest<br />

This fascinating trip takes you to the lesser visited<br />

villages of Guangxi and Guizhou, before flying on<br />

to Yunnan province. You’ll see a whole host of<br />

different minorities, and get a real taste of life in<br />

rural China. While accommodation is basic in some<br />

places, you’ll be rewarded by experiencing a side<br />

of China that few visitors get to see.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Stay longer<br />

Fly from London to Hong Kong<br />

overnight.<br />

Fly on to Guilin.<br />

Drive to the pretty village of Longji.<br />

After time to explore the pretty rice<br />

terraces, drive on to Chengyang to<br />

see the famous Wind and Rain<br />

Bridge. Continue on to Zhaoxing.<br />

Spend the morning walking in the<br />

area, with the afternoon at leisure.<br />

Continue to Rongjiang, via a Miao<br />

minority village.<br />

Drive to Kaili, stopping at various<br />

minority villages on the way.<br />

Transfer to Guiyang airport, and fly<br />

to Lijiang.<br />

Spend the day exploring Lijiang<br />

old town.<br />

Leave the town to see the village of<br />

Shigu and the first bend of the<br />

Yangtze River, as well as the Tiger<br />

Leaping Gorge.<br />

Drive from Lijiang to the pretty<br />

village of Shaxi.<br />

See market day in Shaxi, before<br />

driving on to Dali.<br />

Spend the day exploring Dali’s<br />

old town.<br />

Fly to the UK via Kunming and<br />

Hong Kong.<br />

Early arrival into the UK.<br />

You could easily spend a further night in both Dali<br />

and Lijiang. The town of Yangshuo near Guilin is a<br />

relaxing place to spend a few days. You could also<br />

start or end the trip with time in Beijing, Shanghai<br />

or Hong Kong.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/china ● 01993 838 220 ● China 37


Hong Kong<br />

Since the colonial era Hong Kong<br />

has been Asia’s commercial and<br />

cultural hub, making it one of the<br />

world’s most cosmopolitan, spectacular<br />

and thrilling cities. The wonder of<br />

Hong Kong lies in its contrasts, –<br />

it’s a place where true multicultural<br />

modernity mixes seamlessly with<br />

ancient Chinese traditions. Beneath<br />

the towering skyscrapers of the Central<br />

District you’ll find traditional wet<br />

markets where locals come for fresh<br />

vegetables and live, flapping seafood.<br />

Follow a feast of traditional Cantonese<br />

dim-sum with a wander round the<br />

chic shopping districts of Wanchai and<br />

Causeway Bay, packed full of<br />

international brands and designer<br />

labels. Or follow the locals instead<br />

and head to the bustling night markets<br />

of Nathan Road. If you have time,<br />

we’d recommend a trip to the former<br />

Portuguese colony of Macau nearby,<br />

with its relaxed European atmosphere,<br />

for a very different experience.<br />

Skyline at night, Hong Kong<br />

1 Victoria Peak<br />

Take a ride on the Peak Tram<br />

and get a bird’s eye view of the<br />

Hong Kong skyline.<br />

1<br />

3<br />

2<br />

2 Hong Kong harbour<br />

Ride one of Hong Kong’s<br />

famous Star Ferries for views<br />

of one of the world’s most<br />

impressive cityscapes.<br />

3 Symphony of lights<br />

laser show<br />

Every night, the city puts on a<br />

stunning laser show, using the<br />

skyline as a canvas.<br />

Shopping<br />

Whether your tastes are for<br />

chic designer boutiques, valuable<br />

antiques or local markets, Hong<br />

Kong is a shopper’s paradise.<br />

Feast yourself<br />

From top gourmet restaurants<br />

serving food from all around the<br />

world to weird and wonderful<br />

street food, there’s something<br />

for everyone in Hong Kong.<br />

38


Trams, Hong Kong Island<br />

Star Ferry, Hong Kong<br />

48 hours in Hong Kong<br />

We’d suggest a stay of at least 48 hours to<br />

experience Hong Kong, although there is<br />

plenty to see and do over the course of<br />

several days (see the following page for<br />

further suggestions if you have longer). A<br />

great place to start your explorations is to<br />

take in some of the classic views of the<br />

harbour on one of the old Star Ferry cruises,<br />

which date back to the 1800s. Then, do a<br />

spot of shopping at one of the Chinese<br />

markets along Nathan Road, stopping for a<br />

dim sum lunch in one of the many street side<br />

stalls. Later, take the tram up to Victoria Peak<br />

and watch as the sun sets over the skyline<br />

and the glittering lights of the skyscrapers<br />

begin to illuminate the night sky.<br />

Market stallholders, Hong Kong<br />

St John’s Cathedral, Hong Kong Island<br />

Chinese medicine, Hong Kong markets<br />

On your second day try an early morning<br />

Tai Chi class, provided free of charge by the<br />

Hong Kong tourist board. After breakfast<br />

venture a little further afield to Stanley, a<br />

port town on the beach front, with a relaxed<br />

and friendly atmosphere. Return to Kowloon<br />

for afternoon tea in the lobby of the iconic<br />

Peninsula hotel and then end your time in<br />

Hong Kong by watching the daily light show<br />

at the harbour front.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Hong Kong<br />

Hong Kong makes a great start or end to a<br />

trip to China or elsewhere in the region.<br />

Having been a British territory for well over<br />

a hundred years, street signs are all in English,<br />

and most taxi drivers and shop assistants<br />

speak at least some English. This, combined<br />

with the outstanding public transport system<br />

means that we rarely arrange scheduled<br />

excursions. Instead we will make suggestions<br />

as to what to do with your time in Hong<br />

Kong, and give you guidance on how to use<br />

Hong Kong’s transportation. We have spent<br />

time finding some of the best markets and<br />

shopping districts, away from the main tourist<br />

drag, which will allow you a glimpse into the<br />

everyday life of Hong Kong’s inhabitants.<br />

To describe Hong Kong as the crossroads of<br />

Asia is something of a cliché, but it’s an apt<br />

description. There are regular, direct flights to<br />

most major (and plenty of minor) cities in<br />

mainland China, Southeast Asia and Japan.<br />

Hong Kong is also a major hub for flights to<br />

Australia and New Zealand. It’s therefore<br />

possible to spend a few days in Hong Kong<br />

as a part of itineraries to any of these places.<br />

For China, Hong Kong makes a great start or<br />

end to a Classic China trip, and is also the<br />

gateway to Yunnan province.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Hong Kong’s accommodation options are<br />

exhaustive, with a range of hotels to suit<br />

every taste and budget. There is very little in<br />

the way of characterful or boutique<br />

accommodation in Hong Kong, however,<br />

there are several iconic and well established<br />

hotels on both Kowloon and Hong Kong<br />

Island, which boast rooms with views over<br />

the harbour. Whether you choose to stay on<br />

the island or Kowloon depends very much<br />

on personal preference, but if you do want a<br />

spectacular harbour view from your room<br />

then we recommend staying in Kowloon.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries including Hong<br />

Kong, please see any of our China itineraries,<br />

on pages 17, 27 and 37.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our China<br />

specialists 01993 838 220<br />

Hong Kong 39


Peak tram, Hong Kong<br />

40<br />

Another day in<br />

Hong Kong<br />

The outlying islands surrounding Hong<br />

Kong offer a tranquil escape from the<br />

frenetic pace of the city and make for a<br />

good day trip. Lantau Island is home to<br />

the giant Bronze Buddha, reputedly the<br />

largest seated Buddha in the world and<br />

is a good place for walks. Younger<br />

visitors will be pleased to know it’s<br />

also home to Hong Kong Disneyland!<br />

Lamma Island has a small population<br />

of fishermen and expats and is a great<br />

spot for fresh seafood, fine beaches<br />

and countryside walks.<br />

Macau is just an hour from Hong Kong<br />

by jetfoil yet feels a whole world away.<br />

A relaxed blend of Portuguese colonial<br />

architecture and cobbled streets, Macau<br />

is famed for its cathedral ruins, superb<br />

food and extensive casinos. Covering<br />

just 18 kilometres in total, the territory<br />

has always had a distinctively different<br />

atmosphere from Hong Kong, with<br />

public squares, outdoor cafes offering al<br />

fresco dining and swaying palm trees<br />

giving a cosmopolitan, southern<br />

European ambience.<br />

Fruit market, Hong Kong<br />

METROPARK, HONG KONG ISLAND<br />

A good value hotel in an expensive city, this<br />

brightly decorated hotel is well-located, about five<br />

minutes walk from Victoria Park in the Causeway<br />

Bay area. Tin Hau MTR stop is a two minute walk<br />

away, giving excellent access to the rest of Hong<br />

Kong. As is usual with hotels in Hong Kong the<br />

rooms are small, but they are well decorated and<br />

comfortable. The rooftop pool provides an<br />

excellent area to relax with nice views of the city<br />

and the bay.<br />

THE LANGHAM, KOWLOON<br />

Considering the level of service, range of facilities<br />

and location, the Langham offers surprisingly good<br />

value for money. The flagship property of this<br />

internationally renowned chain, it exudes elegant<br />

European style and provides a refreshing<br />

sanctuary with superb facilities and a distinctly<br />

contemporary flair. The charming Mediterraneanthemed<br />

rooftop pool area has a fully equipped<br />

health club and range of massage treatments<br />

providing the perfect opportunity to unwind. It is<br />

situated in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui - one of<br />

the liveliest and most popular areas of the city,<br />

with a vast array of shopping, entertainment and<br />

dining opportunities right on your doorstep. The<br />

Star Ferry terminal and an MTR station are less<br />

than five minutes walk away for easy access to<br />

Hong Kong Island.<br />

The Langham


Dim sum snacks<br />

The Intercontinental Grand Stanford<br />

Street scene, Hong Kong<br />

The Park Lane, Hong Kong Island<br />

The Peninsula<br />

THE PENINSULA, KOWLOON<br />

The Peninsula is the ‘Grand Old Lady’ of Hong<br />

Kong - and the most historical hotel, having<br />

opened her doors in 1928. All these years later,<br />

the hotel retains its elegance and opulence and<br />

remains ‘the’ place to stay when in town. There<br />

are 300 nostalgically decorated rooms and suites,<br />

many with superb harbour views. The hotel has<br />

extensive spa and fitness facilities, including a full<br />

harbour view Roman-style swimming pool. The<br />

fleet of Rolls-Royce limousines parked in front of<br />

the elegant lobby, with immaculately dressed bellboys<br />

in close attendance, is one of the classic<br />

images of Hong Kong. Some of the city’s best<br />

restaurants are within the hotel, for a special<br />

occasion we would recommend the Philippe<br />

Starck designed Felix restaurant at the top of the<br />

building, which has stunning harbour views.<br />

THE INTERCONTINENTAL,<br />

KOWLOON<br />

The Intercontinental is excellently located on the<br />

harbour front, only a few minutes walk from the<br />

Star Ferry and Nathan Road, and is one of Hong<br />

Kong’s most prestigious landmarks. Famous for its<br />

fantastic views over to Hong Kong Island, the<br />

hotel offers an excellent standard of service and<br />

facilities including landscaped gardens overlooking<br />

the harbour. The hotel’s spa is renowned as one<br />

of Hong Kong’s best and we can reserve<br />

treatments for you if you require. The hotel also<br />

has two of Hong Kong’s most fashionable<br />

restaurants – Nobu and Spoon. Both have<br />

outstanding service, and the view from the<br />

lobby is truly breathtaking.<br />

The Intercontinental, harbour view room<br />

THE PARK LANE,<br />

HONG KONG ISLAND<br />

Located in Causeway Bay, one of Hong Kong’s<br />

liveliest shopping and entertainment districts,<br />

the Park Lane Hotel overlooks the city’s largest<br />

park, offering spectacular views of both the<br />

famous harbour and Victoria Park. Comfortable,<br />

elegantly decorated guest rooms together with<br />

a comprehensive range of food and beverage<br />

outlets and impeccable service make the<br />

Park Lane an excellent option for the<br />

discerning traveller.<br />

THE INTERCONTINENTAL<br />

GRAND STANFORD, KOWLOON<br />

Situated on the harbour front, ten minute’s<br />

walk from Kowloon’s major shopping and<br />

entertainment district, the Grand Stanford is a<br />

good base for your stay in Hong Kong. Tsim Sha<br />

Tsui MTR station is around ten minute’s walk<br />

away, meaning that Hong Kong Island is easily<br />

accessible. Some rooms have full or partial views<br />

of the famed harbour, which although not as<br />

good as some of its rivals still manage to impress,<br />

especially given the hotel’s great value rates.<br />

The hotel has excellent facilities with a recently<br />

refurbished rooftop pool area. High levels of<br />

efficient and discreet service are the trademarks<br />

of this reliable hotel.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/hongkong ● 01993 838 220 ● Hong Kong 41


Tibet<br />

Lying majestically in the shadows of the<br />

towering Himalayas, the great<br />

expanse of Tibet is a land of mystical<br />

monasteries, soaring mountains and ancient<br />

traditions. Despite the pressures exerted by<br />

Chinese rule, the Tibetan people cling<br />

proudly to their traditions and cultural<br />

identity and offer a warm welcome to all<br />

who come to marvel at this special place.<br />

Although long exiled in northern India, the<br />

Dalai Lama’s influence remains undimmed<br />

and is evident in Tibet’s countless<br />

monasteries and places of worship. Pilgrims<br />

still flock to Barkhor Square and the<br />

Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, and to reaffirm<br />

their devotion beneath the sheer walls of<br />

the Potala Palace. Beyond the capital<br />

breathtaking scenery awaits – the road to<br />

Kathmandu leads past ice blue lakes beneath<br />

the gaze of Mt Everest to the winding road<br />

that descends into Nepal. The Beijing to<br />

Lhasa Express offers another way to witness<br />

the superb scenery of Tibet, whilst also<br />

taking one of the world’s great rail journeys.<br />

Whatever experience you seek there are<br />

wonders beyond measure to discover here on<br />

the ‘Roof of the World’.<br />

42


<strong>Audley</strong> in Tibet<br />

4<br />

5<br />

3<br />

2<br />

1<br />

Since the ‘liberation’ of Tibet in 1951 the<br />

country has been officially designated an<br />

autonomous region of China. This<br />

controversial status and the subsequent<br />

relocation of large numbers of Han Chinese<br />

has led to the gradual dilution of Tibetan<br />

culture. We use only Tibetan guides and<br />

focus your itinerary on Tibetan culture and<br />

traditions, giving you an insight into the<br />

country and everyday life. Some of the<br />

more remote areas involve adventurous<br />

journeys, but we will tailor your itinerary to<br />

suit your preferences. Whereas most<br />

operators will only take you to Tibet as part<br />

of a fixed-itinerary group, our tours are fully<br />

tailor-made to your own specifications.<br />

Accommodation<br />

1 Lhasa<br />

Place of pilgrimage for Tibetans<br />

and the cultural and religious<br />

centre of Tibet.<br />

2 Tsetang<br />

Remote and isolated home to<br />

Samye, Tibet’s oldest monastery.<br />

The scenery here is spectacular.<br />

3 Lake Namtso<br />

Outstanding natural scenery<br />

and the opportunity for a night<br />

under canvas, a wonderfully<br />

rewarding experience.<br />

Prayer wheels, Tsetang Monastery<br />

Monk praying, Potala Palace, Lhasa<br />

4 Everest Base Camp 5 The Friendship Highway<br />

The awesome sight of the<br />

world’s highest mountain is<br />

simply stunning, and a highlight<br />

of any overland journey.<br />

With pristine lake views and a<br />

breathtaking mountain backdrop,<br />

this is a truly memorable journey<br />

into South Asia.<br />

Luxury hotels have yet to make it onto the<br />

Tibetan Plateau, and some would say this<br />

adds to Tibet’s charm. There is a mixture of<br />

characterful guesthouses and more functional<br />

Chinese hotels. Lhasa has some of our<br />

favourite choices, with several central hotels<br />

decorated beautifully in the Tibetan style.<br />

Two examples are the Dhood Ghu, which<br />

offers excellent Potala views, and Yabshi<br />

Phunkhang, a fabulous Tibetan experience<br />

which has a history of its own. Outside of<br />

Lhasa the hotels are clean and comfortable,<br />

though without frills. The finest view of<br />

perhaps any accommodation in the world is<br />

found at the basic Rongbuk Monastery<br />

Guesthouse, in the very shadow of Everest,<br />

which is ample compensation for an outside<br />

tap and toilet. Catch up on travel stories in<br />

the cosy restaurant here with other travellers<br />

by the stove over tea. For the adventurous,<br />

a night under canvas on the shore of<br />

breathtaking Lake Namtso is also a possibility.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Tibet, please<br />

see page 48-49.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Tibet<br />

specialists 01993 838 215<br />

Lake Namtso, north of Lhasa<br />

Tibet 43


Young monks, Lhasa<br />

Lhasa<br />

Dominating the skyline with its immense walls of<br />

white and ochre, the famous Potala Palace greets<br />

you as you reach the capital of Tibet. In its maze<br />

of corridors, chapels and galleries, you will<br />

discover the former living quarters of the Dalai<br />

Lama and many sacred tombs. In the old Tibetan<br />

quarter you can walk through the narrow streets<br />

and explore nearby Barkhor Square and the<br />

spectacular golden-roofed Jokhang, the country’s<br />

holiest temple.<br />

Just outside Lhasa there are two monasteries of<br />

particular interest: Sera is set around a busy<br />

courtyard where monks spend heated afternoons<br />

debating philosophical questions, whilst Drepung<br />

was once the world’s largest monastery, housing<br />

up to 10,000 monks in its heyday. A day trip into<br />

the countryside also reveals the monastic ruins<br />

and restorations of Ganden, passing monks on<br />

the way to isolated shrines and enjoying fantastic<br />

panoramas across the valley.<br />

Yabshi Phunkhang Hotel, Lhasa<br />

The Lhasa Express<br />

In July 2006, to much official fanfare, the<br />

inaugural Beijing to Lhasa train service plied<br />

the new Qinghai-Tibet rail line linking Tibet<br />

with the Chinese rail network. This staggering<br />

feat of engineering is officially the world’s<br />

highest railway line, carrying passengers to a<br />

dizzying 5,072 metres. The journey across<br />

the northern Tibetan Plateau passes through<br />

some of Tibet’s most isolated and desolate<br />

regions, which would be almost impossible by<br />

any other means. Mountain views are superb<br />

here, and snow lies on the ground as late as<br />

July. This is one of the world’s great railway<br />

journeys, and is very much a working train<br />

with local Tibetans and Chinese people on<br />

board. As well as enjoying some fabulously<br />

remote scenery from your window, you’ll also<br />

YABSHI PHUNKANG HOTEL, LHASA<br />

Yabshi Phunkang, a home of the Dali Lama’s<br />

family in years past, is built in the traditional<br />

Tibetan style and is full of history. Now one of<br />

Lhasa’s most characterful hotels, Yabshi enjoys a<br />

prime location, just a short walk from<br />

the bustling markets of Barkhor Square. Rooms<br />

are tastefully decorated and very comfortable,<br />

with attentive staff and a relaxed atmosphere.<br />

View from Lhasa Express<br />

spot wandering nomads. The train itself is<br />

similar to the standard Chinese trains, with<br />

four berth sleeper compartments, though<br />

oxygen masks are available for those who feel<br />

the effects of the altitude. On arrival in Lhasa<br />

most travellers are well adjusted to altitude<br />

and ready to start their travels in Tibet, making<br />

the train an excellent way to arrive.<br />

Sculpture, Jokhang temple, Lhasa<br />

44


Future Buddha, Maitreya Chapel, Shigatse Group of nuns, Lhasa Wall painting, Samye Monastery<br />

Gyantse fort at dawn<br />

Kumbum, Pelkor Chode Monastery, Gyantse<br />

Gyantse<br />

Gyantse is full of Tibetan character, a great place<br />

to explore historic streets and markets. Discover<br />

the shadowy chambers of Pelkor Chode<br />

Monastery and the splendid four-tier Gyantse<br />

Kumbum, with its impressive murals and statues<br />

filling many chapels and topped by a golden<br />

dome. En route to Gyantse you pass through<br />

stunning Himalayan scenery, the Kamba-La Pass<br />

providing sweeping panoramas and leading down<br />

to the turquoise waters of Yamdrok-tso.<br />

Local woman, Gyantse<br />

Tsetang<br />

A half-day drive from Lhasa along the<br />

Brahmaputra River valley brings you to the fabled<br />

birthplace of the Tibetan people. The modern<br />

town of Tsetang has a fascinating old Tibetan<br />

quarter and is a good base for exploring the area.<br />

To the south, lose yourself in the eerie<br />

Yumbulagang Fort, its 11 metre tower dark<br />

against the sky. Set on a jagged ridge fluttering<br />

with prayer flags, it is a great viewpoint<br />

overlooking the verdant Yarlung Valley. Northeast<br />

of Tsetang, the road crosses the mighty<br />

Brahmaputra River en route to the remarkable<br />

Samye Monastery, oldest of all Tibet’s<br />

monasteries. Under the protective gaze of the<br />

spectacular Utse building, countless stupas and<br />

temples still attract many devout Buddhists.<br />

Yumbulagang fort, near Tsetang<br />

Tashilunpo Monastery, Shigatse<br />

Shigatse<br />

A two-hour drive from Gyantse, Shigatse is home<br />

to the Tashilhunpo Monastery. This former seat<br />

of the Panchen Lama (the highest ranking after<br />

the Dalai Lama) is famed for its striking buildings,<br />

including the Maitreya Chapel, dominated by a<br />

26 metre statue of the Future Buddha, and the<br />

Tomb of the fourth Panchen Lama. The town is<br />

renowned for its skilled carpet weavers and we<br />

also suggest a walk around the colourful fruit and<br />

vegetable markets.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tibet ● 01993 838 215 ● Tibet 45


Overland to Kathmandu<br />

Pausing to take in the views, Friendship Highway<br />

The overland journey on the Friendship<br />

Highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu in Nepal is<br />

one of the finest travel experiences in Asia and<br />

one rich in culture and scenery. The road takes<br />

you past Tibet’s key towns and monasteries,<br />

over 5,000 metre passes that offer jaw-dropping<br />

views over lakes and green valleys below,<br />

and the chance to spend the night at the foot<br />

of Everest.<br />

The journey<br />

From Lhasa the journey through Tibet begins in<br />

earnest as you leave the city behind and head<br />

south over the Plateau. The first day’s drive<br />

takes you up to 5,000 metres over the high<br />

passes, allowing for excellent views of the crystal<br />

clear Lake Yamdrok-tso.<br />

A day in Gyantse is enough to spend time at<br />

Pelkor Chode Monastery and to have a free<br />

afternoon to wander through the traditional<br />

Tibetan streets and buildings. The next day’s<br />

drive on to Shigatse, Tibet’s second largest<br />

town, is not a long one and is well rewarded in<br />

the afternoon with time browsing in the markets<br />

and perhaps seeking out Sakya Monastery.<br />

As you leave Shigatse the views of the Himalaya<br />

become better and better and, leaving the tarmac<br />

of the Friendship Highway behind, the journey<br />

passes through desert-like terrain until the<br />

unmistakeable sight of Everest appears in front of<br />

you. Accommodation here is at 5,100 metres so<br />

it’s wise to take things easy as you acclimatise.<br />

It’s a good idea to wake early on a morning at<br />

Rongbuk Monastery, not only for a chance to<br />

see the robed monks going about their routine<br />

but, more importantly, for the most<br />

unforgettable views of Everest in the early light.<br />

Once the sun is up it is possible to walk up to<br />

the closest vantage point to Base Camp on a<br />

nearby hill. In the distance can be seen the<br />

orange dots of climbers’ tents as they make<br />

camp at the foot of Everest. The afternoon<br />

journey back to the Friendship Highway ends at<br />

the small town of Tingre, which has just a few<br />

buildings and has a ‘Wild West’ feel to it.<br />

The final day’s drive is a stunning one, as you<br />

descend from the Tibetan Plateau and its lifeless<br />

landscape through gradually emerging woodland<br />

and greenery at the border with Nepal, before<br />

the road levels out and you pass through subtropical<br />

greenery, finally arriving in Kathmandu<br />

in the evening.<br />

Yamdrok Tso lake, Friendship Highway<br />

46


Holy man, Kathmandu<br />

Patan museum, Kathmandu<br />

Yaks, Friendship Highway<br />

View of Everest, Rongbuk monastery<br />

Everest Base Camp<br />

While Base Camp on the Nepal side of Everest<br />

sees more visitors, Base Camp in Tibet is in<br />

comparison a lot more isolated, and the views of<br />

Everest arguably finer. There is a tangible sense<br />

of adventure on arrival, after a bumpy five hour<br />

journey south from the Friendship Highway.<br />

As China has opened up to the world it has<br />

become easier for climbers to attempt to climb<br />

Everest from within Tibet. The region, however,<br />

is still as remote as ever and accommodation<br />

(aside from tents) is found at Rongbuk<br />

Monastery, the world’s highest at 5,100 metres.<br />

This remains a functioning monastery and the<br />

small funds that they receive from travellers<br />

enables the monks to maintain the buildings.<br />

For those who stay at Rongbuk Monastery, the<br />

basic facilities, which include outdoor taps and<br />

toilets, is more than compensated for by the<br />

dramatic vews of Everest itself from the bedroom<br />

windows. It’s a breathtaking sight in the morning<br />

or evening as the sunlight shifts over the snows.<br />

Nuns and monks, Rongbuk Monastery<br />

Durbar square, Kathmandu<br />

Kathmandu<br />

Arriving in Kathmandu from Tibet is an<br />

assault on the senses. The climate is hot and<br />

humid, the streets noisy, chaotic and typically<br />

South Asian, and the religious architecture<br />

distinctly Hindu in appearance.<br />

Durbar Square is a delight to wander<br />

through, with its temples and palaces, while<br />

Thamel is excellent for shopping or browsing.<br />

This a great area for eating out as well, and<br />

a curry can be extremely welcome after a<br />

week or two in Tibet. Swayambhunath is one<br />

of the most revered temples in Nepalese<br />

Buddhism, and home to the country’s oldest<br />

stupa. The temple has great views over the<br />

city and the valley beyond and is a pleasant<br />

escape from the traffic and bustle outside.<br />

This is a city with long and rich history and is<br />

a fascinating place to spend a couple of days.<br />

For longer journeys through Nepal, please<br />

see our Indian Subcontinent brochure or<br />

www.audleytravel.com/nepal<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tibet ● 01993 838 215 ● Tibet 47


Prayer wheels, Lhasa<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Tibet specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 215<br />

Getting there<br />

Tibet can be approached either from its<br />

Himalayan cousin, Nepal, with several flights a<br />

week linking Kathmandu with Lhasa, or from<br />

China, with daily flights from Beijing, or the Lhasa<br />

Express train. At certain times of year it is also<br />

possible to take the superb overland journey<br />

between Tibet and Nepal, skirting Mt Everest and<br />

passing through awe-inspiring Himalayan scenery.<br />

Allow for 15 days to make the overland journey<br />

in comfort, including a four night stay in Lhasa.<br />

48<br />

Getting around<br />

In Tibet, we suggest using private vehicles to get<br />

around, to ensure maximum comfort and<br />

flexibility. Roads around Lhasa and the main<br />

towns of Tibet are generally of a reasonable<br />

standard. However, if travelling overland between<br />

Tibet and Nepal, we recommend the use of a<br />

4X4 vehicle – the roads out here start to get<br />

pretty bumpy.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✕ ✕ ✕ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ~ ✕<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Tibet is only practical between the<br />

months of April and November, as inclement<br />

weather prevents the majority of flights entering<br />

the region at other times. Despite the altitude it<br />

is surprisingly warm during this climatic window,<br />

although some rain is likely in July and August. For<br />

their largely clear, azure skies May and October<br />

are generally considered the finest months for<br />

travel, while September is also excellent for<br />

making the overland journey to Nepal.<br />

Time difference: GMT+8 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 16 hours<br />

Altitude<br />

With the entire Tibetan plateau lying above<br />

3,500 metres, the effect of altitude is a factor<br />

we consider when planning your itinerary.<br />

Most travellers only suffer mild and temporary<br />

symptoms such as headaches and breathlessness,<br />

but with this in mind, we always try to build<br />

in time to acclimatise at the beginning of<br />

your journey.<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Tibet on our website, alternatively<br />

please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />

Tibetan lady


Suggested itineraries<br />

TIBET<br />

TIBET<br />

CHINA<br />

Beijing<br />

NEPAL<br />

Kathmandu<br />

Shigatse<br />

Gyantse<br />

Mount<br />

Everest<br />

BHUTAN<br />

Lhasa<br />

Tsetang<br />

NEPAL<br />

Kathmandu<br />

Tingri<br />

Shigatse<br />

Gyantse<br />

Mount<br />

Everest<br />

BHUTAN<br />

Lhasa<br />

Tsetang<br />

Lhasa<br />

Gyantse<br />

Tsetang<br />

INDIA<br />

INDIA<br />

Classic Tibet<br />

This relaxed touring itinerary takes you to the<br />

main highlights of Tibet, travelling via Kathmandu.<br />

You will experience the culture and religion of the<br />

Tibetan people as you visit the most sacred<br />

monasteries and temples, and enjoy breathtaking<br />

scenery and mountain views as you travel on the<br />

Friendship Highway.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Extensions<br />

Fly from the UK to Kathmandu,<br />

via Qatar.<br />

Transit in Doha and fly on to<br />

Kathmandu. The rest of the day is<br />

at leisure to acclimatise.<br />

A day tour of Kathmandu’s key<br />

sights, including a visit to<br />

Swayambhunath Temple.<br />

Fly into Tibet and drive to Tsetang.<br />

Full day at Samye Monastery and<br />

Yambulagang Monastery.<br />

Drive to Gyantse via the Kamba<br />

La Pass.<br />

A full day in Gyantse.<br />

Drive to Shigatse to explore<br />

Tashilunpo Monastery and the<br />

local markets.<br />

Drive back to Lhasa.<br />

A full day exploring the Jokhang<br />

Temple, Sera Monastery and the<br />

Dalai Lama’s Summer Palace.<br />

Visit the Potala Palace and<br />

Drepung Monastery.<br />

Fly back to Kathmandu for an<br />

overnight stay.<br />

Return to the UK via the Gulf,<br />

arriving the same day.<br />

Tibet combines well with Nepal for those<br />

interested in exploring the region further. Please<br />

see our Indian Subcontinent brochure for more<br />

information about Nepal. Alternatively, time in<br />

Tibet can be combined with some of the sights<br />

of Classic China, or of China’s Yunnan province.<br />

Overland from Lhasa to<br />

Kathmandu<br />

This itinerary makes for a rewarding overland<br />

journey from Lhasa to Nepal, experiencing ancient<br />

culture and awesome mountain scenery. This is<br />

one of the world’s great travel experiences.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Fly from London to Kathmandu<br />

via Qatar.<br />

Transfer in Doha for your flight to<br />

Kathmandu. Spend the rest of the<br />

day at leisure in Kathmandu.<br />

See the highlights of Kathmandu,<br />

including Swayambunath temple.<br />

Fly to Lhasa's Gongkar Airport, from<br />

where you drive to Tsetang.<br />

Visit Samye Monastery. Continue<br />

on to Yambulagang Palace, home<br />

of the first 32 kings of Tibet.<br />

Drive to Lhasa.<br />

Visit the Potala Palace and in the<br />

afternoon explore Sera Monastery.<br />

Enjoy a tour of Lhasa’s most<br />

important temple, the Jokhang,<br />

and afterwards travel to the seat<br />

of the State Oracle, at Drepung.<br />

Drive to Gyantse on the Southern<br />

Friendship Highway.<br />

Visit the Pelkor Chode Monastery<br />

and the Kumbum.<br />

Drive to Shigatse via Shalu Monastery<br />

and Tashilunpo monastery.<br />

Enjoy the passing scenery on the<br />

full day drive towards the Himalayas,<br />

spending the night at Rongbuk<br />

Monastery.<br />

Walk to Base Camp for staggering<br />

views of Everest, before making the<br />

journey back to Tingri.<br />

Continue on towards Kathmandu.<br />

Fly back to London, via the Gulf.<br />

The Lhasa Express<br />

The Lhasa Express is the highest railway line in the<br />

world and one of the world’s great rail journeys.<br />

You’ll have time in Beijing before spending two<br />

days crossing China and ascending to Lhasa, taking<br />

in some fantastic scenery on the way. Once in<br />

Tibet you’ll see some of the main highlights, before<br />

returning to the UK via Beijing.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Days 6-7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Fly from London to Beijing overnight.<br />

Relax and recover from your flight,<br />

perhaps beginning to explore Beijing<br />

in the afternoon.<br />

Take in Tiananmen Square and the<br />

Forbidden City. In the afternoon,<br />

visit the Summer Palace.<br />

Leave the city to see one of China’s<br />

iconic sites – The Great Wall.<br />

See the Temple of Heaven, and in<br />

the afternoon take a rickshaw ride<br />

around Beijing’s Hutong districts<br />

before boarding the Lhasa Express<br />

in the evening.<br />

Drink in the stunning scenery,<br />

arriving into Lhasa in the evening<br />

of day seven.<br />

Visit the superb Potala Palace<br />

and in the afternoon explore<br />

Sera Monastery and see the<br />

monks debating.<br />

Enjoy a tour of Lhasa’s most<br />

important temple, the Jokhang,<br />

and afterwards travel to the seat<br />

of the State Oracle, at Drepung.<br />

Drive to Gyantse via the Kamba<br />

La Pass.<br />

A full day in Gyantse.<br />

Drive to Tsetang.<br />

Full day at Samye Monastery and<br />

Yambulagang Monastery.<br />

Fly back to Beijing for a night’s stay.<br />

Return to the UK, arriving later the<br />

same day.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tibet ● 01993 838 215 ● Tibet 49


Taiwan<br />

From the bustling, high-tech<br />

capital in the north to the<br />

breathtaking gorges and mountain<br />

scenery of the central highlands,<br />

Taiwan is North Asia’s surprise<br />

jewel, often regrettably overlooked<br />

in favour of its larger neighbours.<br />

Early Portuguese sailors gave<br />

Taiwan the name ‘Ihla Formosa’<br />

which means ‘Beautiful Island’, and<br />

it’s easy to see why. Sheer cliffs drop<br />

vertically into the ocean, deep canyons<br />

cut through her middle and thick<br />

forest stretches across a mountainous<br />

region, covering two thirds of the<br />

island in green. Taiwan is also home<br />

to some of the most welcoming people<br />

in all of Asia, the world’s finest<br />

collection of Chinese artefacts, and a<br />

colourful and dynamic culture<br />

distinctly different from its neighbour<br />

across the Taiwan Strait.<br />

Sun Moon Lake<br />

3<br />

5 6<br />

1 Taroko Gorge<br />

Translated as ‘Magnificent and<br />

Beautiful’, the name says it all.<br />

2 Sun Moon Lake<br />

Taiwan’s largest lake, home<br />

to one of Taiwan’s<br />

indigenous tribes.<br />

Wufei temple, Tainan<br />

1<br />

5 Taipei’s night markets<br />

Grab yourself a bargain and<br />

some great local food at one<br />

of the capital’s lively markets.<br />

4<br />

7<br />

2<br />

Ladies, Sun Moon Lake<br />

3 Yangmingshan’s<br />

hot springs<br />

Purify yourself the traditional<br />

Taiwanese way.<br />

4 Temples of Tainan<br />

The highest concentration of<br />

temples in Taiwan can be<br />

found here.<br />

6 National Palace Museum<br />

Taiwan’s best museum, detailing<br />

not just the history of Taiwan,<br />

but of mainland China as well.<br />

7 Alishan Mountain<br />

Alishan is Taiwan’s highest<br />

mountain, perfect for walking<br />

and other outdoor pursuits.<br />

Tea pickers, Alishan Mountains<br />

50


Central Taiwan<br />

Central Taiwan offers such a diverse range of<br />

landscapes – from jagged peaks, to banana palm<br />

plantations and golden sand beaches, that it is<br />

hard to know where to start. Located almost<br />

exactly in the centre of the country, Sun Moon<br />

Lake is the most beautiful lake in Taiwan,<br />

resplendent with sparkling blue water and an<br />

impressive mountain backdrop. It’s also home to<br />

the sumptuous Lalu Hotel, which is a real treat<br />

and Taiwan’s finest accommodation. <strong>Travel</strong> south<br />

along the breathtaking New Island Highway and<br />

you arrive at Alishan Mountain. This is Taiwan’s<br />

most famous mountain resort, perfect for those<br />

in search of fresh mountain air and impressive<br />

vistas over the surrounding countryside.<br />

Southern Taiwan<br />

To the south of the country – an hour’s drive<br />

from the swarming metropolis of Kaohsiung – is<br />

the little-known village of Maolin, a peaceful oasis<br />

of rivers, waterfalls, babbling brooks, mountains,<br />

and some of Taiwan’s less explored hiking trails.<br />

Night market, Taipei<br />

Skyline, Taipei<br />

Taipei, northern Taiwan<br />

and Taroko Gorge<br />

From one of the tallest buildings in the world to<br />

the thick plumes of incense swirling up from<br />

Buddhist and Taoist temples, Taipei is a city of old<br />

and new. It is the thriving heart of Taiwan, the<br />

bustling centre of commerce, government and<br />

culture, and for most people the first stop on a<br />

tour of the island. Most visitors make a beeline<br />

for the National Palace Museum, the world’s<br />

largest museum of Chinese artefacts, filled with<br />

the country’s finest artistic and cultural objects<br />

from a period spanning three millennia. Take time<br />

to explore Taipei’s parks and gardens, bustling<br />

night markets and traditional teahouses. Take a<br />

day trip to the cobblestone alleys of Keelung, or<br />

venture into the Yangmingshan National Park,<br />

only thirty minutes from Taipei yet boiling with<br />

hot springs, fumaroles and volcanic craters. A<br />

short journey along the scenic eastern coast<br />

brings you to the island’s premier attraction –<br />

the majestic, marble-walled Taroko Gorge.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Taiwan<br />

Few people treat themselves to more than<br />

a fleeting glimpse of Taiwan, and even fewer<br />

venture out of the capital. Although only<br />

around half the size of Ireland, Taiwan boasts<br />

a public transport network to rival her<br />

Japanese neighbour, with an excellent train<br />

and bus network between major towns<br />

and domestic air links for those in a hurry.<br />

We recommend taking advantage of this,<br />

and also delving further into the country<br />

by road to explore Taiwan’s mountainous<br />

interior and numerous national parks. If you<br />

have the time, we’d strongly suggest spending<br />

some time in the south – this is the more<br />

Taiwanese part of Taiwan, the north being<br />

more dominated by Han Chinese that<br />

came over with Chiang Kai Shek after the<br />

communist revolution. For the train<br />

enthusiast, there are a couple of fine journeys<br />

that stand out: the old steam train which<br />

chugs out of the Alishan National Park and<br />

the new high speed train that speeds<br />

between Taipei and Kaohsiung in the far<br />

south. For those who want to combine a<br />

taste of Taiwan with China, there are now<br />

direct flights from many Chinese cities.<br />

Practicalities<br />

Taiwan has a good standard of<br />

accommodation throughout, though hotels<br />

tend to be slanted towards the business<br />

market and there are few character options.<br />

Taiwan’s weather is as varied as its landscape,<br />

but can be generally termed as sub-tropical.<br />

Its two distinct seasons, hot and cool, run<br />

predictably from May to October and<br />

November to March respectively, and the<br />

typhoon season runs from mid-August to<br />

early October. Aside from those who are<br />

looking to conquer one of its mountainous<br />

peaks, it is best to aim for the spring and<br />

the autumn when the air is fresh, the<br />

flowers are in bloom and travel is at its<br />

most comfortable.<br />

Alishan Mountain<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Taiwan, please<br />

see our website.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

suggested itineraries, accommodation,<br />

climate information and articles written<br />

by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Taiwan<br />

specialists 01993 838 260<br />

Taiwan 51


Silk Route<br />

The Silk Route, a complex network of<br />

ancient trading routes that snake from<br />

Xian in China through the high passes of<br />

Central Asia into Persia, Arabia and Europe<br />

has inspired travellers and scholars for<br />

centuries. Before it was surpassed by seaborne<br />

trade it was the main artery for the exchange<br />

of goods and information between east and<br />

west. Though silk was one of the most<br />

important commodities transported along<br />

it, many other goods were traded in both<br />

directions – perfumes, jewels, glassware, and<br />

spices to mention just a few. The flow of ideas<br />

was just as important – with Islam spreading<br />

as far east as China. Xian, traditionally<br />

seen as the start of the Silk Route still has<br />

a significant Muslim population. In the<br />

opposite direction, Europe received the<br />

inventions of irrigation wheels and paper<br />

from China. Today, the fascinating mix of<br />

diverse cultures, breathtaking landscapes and<br />

intricate history makes for some of the most<br />

rewarding travelling in the world. Vast<br />

deserts, ancient ruins, towering mountains,<br />

imposing architecture and bustling markets<br />

all await the adventurous traveller along the<br />

ancient Silk Route.<br />

52


<strong>Audley</strong> along the<br />

Silk Route<br />

7<br />

1 Kashgar Sunday Market<br />

One of the world’s great<br />

markets and the very essence of<br />

the Silk Route at the crossroads<br />

between the Far East, the Indian<br />

Subcontinent and Central Asia.<br />

2 The Karakoram Highway<br />

Some of the most breathtaking<br />

mountain scenery in the world<br />

with many peaks well over<br />

7,000 metres bordering<br />

Pakistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan<br />

and Kyrgyzstan.<br />

3<br />

8<br />

2<br />

1<br />

4<br />

Tile detail, Registan, Samarkand<br />

3 The Torugart Pass<br />

At 3,752 metres high this pass<br />

between China and Kyrgyzstan<br />

is legendary.<br />

4 The Tian Shan<br />

mountains<br />

Separating China and Central<br />

Asia, the jagged Tian Shan<br />

mountain range boasts some<br />

spectacular peaks that tower<br />

over the grasslands and deserts<br />

at their feet.<br />

5 Xian<br />

An ancient capital of China and<br />

the eastern-most point of the<br />

ancient Silk Route.<br />

6 Dunhuang<br />

Home to the Mogao Thousand<br />

Buddha caves and some of the<br />

highest sand dunes in the world.<br />

6<br />

5<br />

We have been operating trips in this<br />

challenging part of the world for many years<br />

now. Our specialists have been to many<br />

corners of these little visited parts, so we<br />

really can talk from personal experience<br />

when organising trips here. Whether you<br />

have days or weeks to spend following in<br />

the footsteps of some of the world’s most<br />

resilient traders, there is plenty to explore<br />

along the Silk Route. A shorter, one week<br />

trip may focus on the incredible architecture<br />

of Uzbekistan or the beautiful scenery of<br />

neighbouring Kyrgyzstan while a longer trip<br />

might encompass a number of countries such<br />

as Western China, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan<br />

and many of the key points of interest along<br />

the way. For the ultimate Silk Route<br />

experience, it’s even possible to travel all the<br />

way from China to Istanbul, via Kyrgyzstan,<br />

Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Iran on a<br />

truely unforgettable journey.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Accommodation along the Silk Route is<br />

invariably simple and each country offers a<br />

distinctly different style; Western China tends<br />

to offer international hotels, Kyrgyzstan<br />

offers guesthouses and Uzbekistan offers<br />

caravanserai-style courtyard properties.<br />

Unless you are staying in yurts in Kyrgyzstan,<br />

the majority of accommodation along the<br />

Silk Route is en suite and quite comfortable.<br />

There are few luxury hotels in the region –<br />

the best available are in the capitals of<br />

Tashkent and Bishkek, though these tend<br />

to be focused on business travellers.<br />

7<br />

Registan Square,<br />

Samarkand<br />

Samarkand’s centre piece, here<br />

three medressas form a truly<br />

humbling sight.<br />

8<br />

Traditional yurt stay,<br />

Lake Song Kol<br />

A night on the edge of the lake<br />

gives a real taste for the<br />

nomadic way of life.<br />

Walking in Kyrgyzstan<br />

Kyrgyzstan is a walker’s paradise<br />

and some of the alpine trails<br />

between Lake Karakol and the<br />

Tian Shan mountains are the<br />

best in the country.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travelling along the Silk<br />

Route, please see pages 60-61.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Central Asia<br />

specialists 01993 838 205<br />

Torugart pass, between China and Kyrgyzstan<br />

Silk Route 53


Karakoram highway, Kashgar<br />

Xinjiang province and the<br />

west of China<br />

The far western provinces of China, at the fringes<br />

of the country, feel a world away from the<br />

modern metropolises of Beijing and Shanghai.<br />

The people here are distinctive – many of them<br />

are Muslims Uighurs, and the faces you see on<br />

the streets will look markedly different to those<br />

in the towns and cities in the rest of China.<br />

Scenically the region is distinct too, with the vast<br />

Taklamakan desert giving way to the craggy<br />

Tian Shan mountains near the borders with<br />

Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.<br />

Local muslim man, Xian<br />

54<br />

Labrang Monastery, Xiahe<br />

Xian<br />

Xian, capital of ancient China under several of<br />

the country’s most important dynasties was the<br />

eastern-most point on the ancient Silk Route.<br />

It was from Xian that Chinese silk began its epic<br />

journey overland through the sands of the Gobi<br />

and Taklamakan deserts to the high passes of<br />

Central Asia and beyond. Xian soon rose to<br />

become one of the great cities in the vast but<br />

fragmented China. Its old name – Chang’an meant<br />

‘long or perpetual peace’ and this is testament to<br />

the city’s undisputed greatness. To this day, Xian<br />

maintains a vibrant Muslim Quarter at the heart<br />

of which lies the Grand Mosque – a reflection of<br />

the city’s cosmopolitan history. For more about<br />

Xian see page 14.<br />

Xiahe<br />

Set in a picturesque mountain valley and home<br />

to one of the leading Tibetan monasteries outside<br />

Lhasa, Xiahe offers those unable to visit Tibet the<br />

chance to experience the unique Lamaist<br />

Buddhism and Tibetan culture. The thriving<br />

Labrang monastery, built in 1709, is the heart of<br />

the town and attracts thousands of Tibetan<br />

pilgrims each year, dressed in their finest and<br />

most colourful clothing. Join the pilgrims on their<br />

devotional prayer-wheel circuit around the<br />

monastery or visit the high grassland steppe close<br />

to town where Tibetan nomads graze their yaks<br />

and skylark’s song fills the air.<br />

Lamas, Xiahe


Buddhist cave painting, Mogao caves, near Turpan Uigur girl, Kashgar old town Traditional house, Kashgar<br />

Mingsha singing sand dunes, Dunhuang<br />

Dunhuang<br />

The city of Dunhuang has been a centre for<br />

Buddhist art and sculpture for over 1,500 years.<br />

There is nowhere along the Silk Route quite like<br />

it, with cave frescoes that have withstood the<br />

test of time nestled between massive sand dunes<br />

and barren mountains. The splendid paintings<br />

date back to the Tang dynasty and have stood<br />

sentinel to the changing times ever since. A visit<br />

here is richly rewarding, showing not only the<br />

extraordinary mix of cultures but also the<br />

brilliance of the artists themselves.<br />

SILK ROAD HOTEL, DUNHUANG<br />

The Silk Road Hotel is one of the most attractive<br />

places to stay along the Chinese section of the<br />

Silk Route. The hotel sits in the shadow of the<br />

Mingsha singing sand dunes which are said to be<br />

the highest in the world. Watching the sun set<br />

behind this magnificent backdrop from your<br />

vantage point on the hotel’s rooftop terraces with<br />

the heat of the Gobi warming the air is a fine way<br />

to end a day of exploration. Rooms here are<br />

tastefully, if simply, decorated and are en suite<br />

making this the perfect stopping off point in the<br />

Gobi desert.<br />

Haggling at the market, Kashgar<br />

Kashgar<br />

The great city of Kashgar, a base for commerce<br />

and cultural exchange for countless centuries, is<br />

perhaps the most interesting and exciting in<br />

western China. Its celebrated Sunday market, a<br />

chaotic mix of people and animals, is a captivating<br />

event. Farmers and traders from all over southern<br />

Xinjiang and beyond converge here once a week,<br />

with cries of ‘bosh bosh!’ (‘coming through!’), to<br />

buy or sell anything from horses to hats, and a<br />

great deal besides. The bizarre and wonderful<br />

sight of young men test-driving donkeys and<br />

horses, checking teeth and hooves, is one that will<br />

stay with you forever. Getting here is also part of<br />

the fun. There are daily flights from Urumqi that<br />

pass directly over the stunning Tian Shan<br />

mountains, or a train that winds its way into the<br />

peaks and on through the desert. Whichever way<br />

you come, Kashgar will not disappoint.<br />

Silk Road Hotel, Dunhuang<br />

Ruined city of Jiahe, near Turpan<br />

Turpan<br />

This town, nestling in the world’s second lowest<br />

valley, is an improbable success story. For over<br />

2,000 years it has been inhabited by various<br />

peoples despite receiving almost no rain at all.<br />

It owes its curious longevity to an ingenious<br />

irrigation system once prevalent throughout<br />

Central Asia. Here 5,000 kilometres of<br />

underground tunnels channel glacier water from<br />

the high mountains down to the valley, sustaining<br />

a population of over 250,000 people and the<br />

grapes for which the area is famed. Surrounding<br />

the town are numerous fascinating sites, including<br />

the ruined desert city of Jiahe and the ancient<br />

Mogao Thousand Buddha caves.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/silkroute ● 01993 838 205 ● Silk Route 55


<strong>Travel</strong>ling along the great Silk Route<br />

Detail, wooden pavillion, Samarkand<br />

What to expect<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>ling along the Silk Route should be seen<br />

as a journey and not a holiday, and you should<br />

have a reasonable level of fitness. There is<br />

very little in the way of luxury en route and<br />

travelling conditions can be demanding. In<br />

addition, hotel and guesthouse owners in this<br />

part of the world can have a somewhat<br />

cavalier attitude to reservations, and we may<br />

sometimes need to make changes to where<br />

you stay at relatively short notice, though this<br />

would always be to a hotel of the same<br />

standard. There are some long drives and<br />

rough roads, and toilet facilities en route are<br />

not always of the highest standards. However,<br />

these are all small compromises when coupled<br />

with some truly outstanding scenery and the<br />

fascinating cultures you encounter en route.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> options<br />

Traders originally moved their goods along the<br />

Silk Route by camel and pack horse. Although<br />

in theory it’s possible to complete the journey<br />

entirely overland, you would need a lot of<br />

time and thick skin. Instead we suggest a<br />

mixture of domestic flights and road journeys,<br />

with perhaps an overnight train journey or two<br />

for those who enjoy rail travel.<br />

Crossing the border<br />

The Torugart Pass is perhaps the most<br />

famous of the Central Asian border crossings<br />

and links Kyrgyzstan with Western China.<br />

At 3,752 metres, the Torugart is considerably<br />

lower than the nearby Khunjerab which<br />

connects China to Pakistan, but its rugged<br />

inhospitable beauty is not to be<br />

underestimated. Starting just outside Kashgar,<br />

the unpaved road to the border winds amongst<br />

the Tian Shan mountains through stunning<br />

scenery, but it is the Kyrgyz side that hosts the<br />

most breathtaking views of all. Wherever your<br />

destination, this is a long day, but once the dust<br />

has settled, also one of the most rewarding.<br />

Group tours<br />

For those who prefer to tackle this journey in<br />

the company of others, we also run a group<br />

tour, Along the Silk Route, taking in the main<br />

highlights of this epic trip. Starting in Beijing,<br />

China, we follow the ancient trade routes out<br />

to Kashgar, before crossing the Torugart Pass<br />

into Kyrgyzstan, finishing up in Uzbekistan. You’ll<br />

be accompanied by an experienced guide the<br />

whole way. For more details please contact<br />

one of our Central Asia specialists.<br />

56


Herders, Lake Song Kol<br />

Horses, Tian Shan mountains<br />

Kyrgyzstan<br />

Perched between two of the greatest deserts on<br />

Earth, remote and mountainous Kyrgyzstan glows<br />

in lush contrast to its dusty neighbours. Within<br />

only a hundred miles of the scorched plains you<br />

can be high on the grasslands, listening to larksong<br />

and contemplating the majesty of the mountain<br />

scenery as you watch nomads herd their yaks.<br />

The Kyrgyz themselves, especially the nomadic<br />

families of the high steppe, are disarmingly<br />

friendly and welcoming to visitors. Bishkek, the<br />

leafy capital, makes for a pleasant night or two’s<br />

stay, but the beautiful scenery is the real reason<br />

to come here.<br />

Yurt stay, Karakol<br />

Elders, Karokol<br />

Issyk Kul and Song Kol<br />

To the east of the capital Bishkek is the deep and<br />

imposing Lake Issyk-Kul. On all sides, mountains<br />

rise almost sheer from the water, jagged peaks<br />

capped with snow for most of the year. On the<br />

southeastern shore is Karakol, a pretty old Russian<br />

settlement with gingerbread houses and a<br />

photogenic bazaar. The town is an excellent base<br />

for Kyrgyzstan’s best and most accessible hiking,<br />

with Altyn Arashan – possibly the most beautiful<br />

place in a very beautiful country – only a short<br />

drive away. To the north and east of Issyk Kul<br />

are the highest peaks of the Tian Shan mountains,<br />

either side of the massive Inylchek Glacier. Further<br />

west, set in a high alpine valley is Lake Song Kol.<br />

During the summer months nomadic herdsmen<br />

set up yurt camps in the fertile pastures<br />

surrounding the lake, and visitors diverting from<br />

the road from the Chinese border can soak up<br />

the splendour of the region before making the<br />

final push for the capital, Bishkek.<br />

Offering bread, Lake Song Kol<br />

YURT STAYS, KYRGYZSTAN<br />

Central Asians have been using the yurt for<br />

literally thousands of years. Portable, light, cool in<br />

summer, warm in winter, they personify the<br />

unfussy and seasonal life of the nomad. The basic<br />

structure, layers of felt stretched over a wooden<br />

frame, could not be simpler, yet it manages to<br />

support entire families through the summer<br />

months. The best area to see them is the<br />

meadows in Kyrgyzstan, where, in July, it can seem<br />

as though half the population has disappeared<br />

into the hills. You can of course stay in them as<br />

well, something we heartily recommend. The<br />

welcome is always warm and, though the facilities<br />

are akin to camping, the locations of many yurts<br />

mean marvellous views at sunrise and sunset and<br />

what feels like the freshest air in the world. Our<br />

favourite locations are at Lake Song Kol and in<br />

the stunning valleys along the southern shore<br />

of Issyk-Kul.<br />

Lake Issyk Kul<br />

www.audleytravel.com/silkroute ● 01993 838 205 ● Silk Route 57


Kalta Minor and the west gate, Khiva<br />

Old ladies, Khiva<br />

Uzbekistan<br />

This barren, landlocked country, for so long<br />

invisible to Western eyes, contains within its<br />

borders three of Central Asia’s most brilliant<br />

cities: Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand. The wealth<br />

and strategic importance of the region has<br />

attracted covetous invaders across the ages:<br />

Macedonians, Russians, Arabs and Turks have all<br />

left their indelible marks throughout the country,<br />

with countless dazzling monuments to power,<br />

strength, wealth and piety. The capital, Tashkent<br />

is the hub of Central Asia – not the most<br />

attractive city, but one where it may be necessary<br />

to spend at least a night.<br />

58<br />

Khiva<br />

Eight hundred kilometres across the desert from<br />

Tashkent lies Khiva, a well-preserved and<br />

fascinating city, its azure-glazed tiles glinting in<br />

the midday sun. The city was well known to the<br />

Victorians, who were shocked at tales of the<br />

barbarity of the local rulers, the Khans of<br />

Khorezm. Within the redoubtable city walls,<br />

however, a parallel history of scholarship and<br />

study, typified by the wondrous medressas and<br />

mosques, with their intricate majolica patterns,<br />

is waiting to be discovered. Northwest of Khiva,<br />

at Nukus, visitors can witness the tragic remnants<br />

of the Aral Sea, where rusting trawlers are<br />

marooned far from the receding waters. A visit<br />

to this desolate region contrasts sharply with the<br />

pomp and majesty elsewhere in the country.<br />

City walls, Khiva<br />

The Great Game<br />

‘The Great Game’ refers to the strategic<br />

enmity between the British and Russian<br />

empires for control of Central Asia and<br />

India. The phrase was coined by the<br />

British Army officer Arthur Connolly<br />

(1807–1842), who was eventually<br />

captured and beheaded at The Ark in<br />

Bukhara by the emir of Uzbekistan on<br />

charges of spying for the British Empire.<br />

With both sides eyeing the bounty that<br />

was India, competition for power in this<br />

desolate part of the world was often<br />

intense and bloody and ironically,<br />

without a discernable winner. The tactics<br />

used by both sides were often dirty,<br />

and frequently underhand in this vast<br />

power play between two huge empires<br />

that were officially at peace with one<br />

another. The intrigue reached a peak in<br />

the period between 1813 and the 1907<br />

Anglo-Russian Convention. The Great<br />

Game helped to shape the recent<br />

history of Central Asia and lead to some<br />

of the region’s most famous characters.


Dome of Tilla Kari mosque, Samarkand<br />

Schoolboys, Samarkand<br />

The Ark, Bukhara Detail, Divan Begi Madrassa, Bukhara Goods at market, Samarkand<br />

Bukhara<br />

One of the holiest places of Islam, the venerable<br />

and captivating city of Bukhara was also one of<br />

the key stops along the Silk Route. In the Middle<br />

Ages, when the region was at its zenith, scholars<br />

travelled from all over the Islamic world to<br />

study here, including two giants of Persian<br />

culture, Ibn Sina and Firdausi. The monuments<br />

on show are truly impressive, from the astonishing<br />

Kalon minaret, spared by an awestruck Genghis<br />

Khan and bombed by the Red Army, to the<br />

diminutive but exquisite Ismail Samani<br />

Mausoleum, with its Zoroastrian motifs and<br />

intricate brickwork. The main sights can be seen<br />

in a day but this is a place where little seems to<br />

have changed from the medieval era, and taking<br />

things a little slower lets you absorb the thrillingly<br />

authentic atmosphere.<br />

Registan at dusk, Samarkand<br />

Samarkand, Jewel of the Silk Route<br />

“Sweet to ride forth at evening from the wells<br />

When shadows pass gigantic on the sand<br />

And softly through the silence beat the bells<br />

Along the Golden Road to Samarkand.”<br />

James Elroy Flecker<br />

Few names invoke such romance as that of<br />

Samarkand, for countless centuries a glorious<br />

magnet for travellers, scholars, tyrants and<br />

poets. Evidence of the city’s extraordinary<br />

2,500 year history is everywhere, from the<br />

crumbling remains of Marakanda – the old<br />

Greek city – to the grand imposing<br />

monuments of the Islamic Renaissance. Take<br />

an afternoon stroll through Registan Square,<br />

and absorb the same atmosphere of opulence<br />

and grandeur that has drawn visitors to the<br />

city for so long.<br />

South of Samarkand, across the Zerafshan<br />

Mountains is the small town of Shakhrisabz.<br />

As the birthplace of Tamerlane it became a<br />

symbol of the tyrant’s enormous, though<br />

transient, power. The remains of some<br />

gargantuan buildings can still be seen, including<br />

the 45 metre high portal of the Ak Saray<br />

Palace with a Kufic inscription proclaiming<br />

The Sultan is the Shadow of God.<br />

Melon seller, Samarkand<br />

www.audleytravel.com/silkroute ● 01993 838 205 ● Silk Route 59


Spice trader, Xiahe<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Central Asia specialists to<br />

start planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 205<br />

Getting around<br />

To cover the vast distances along this ancient<br />

trade route, we suggest taking some internal<br />

flights, especially in the west of China. These are<br />

on modern planes, run by reputable Chinese<br />

airlines. There is also a railway line that runs all<br />

the way from Beijing to Kashgar for those who<br />

are fans of rail journeys. Elsewhere, we suggest<br />

private vehicles which offer the greatest flexibility<br />

when travelling between places.<br />

60<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✕ ✕ ✕ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Central Asia and Western China’s continental<br />

climate is characterised by very hot and dry<br />

summers and bitterly cold winters. In general<br />

spring and autumn are the ideal times to visit the<br />

region, when the flowers blossom and local<br />

bazaars throng with life. In summer travel is<br />

possible, but expect it to be uncomfortably<br />

hot at times.<br />

Time difference:<br />

GMT+5 hours (Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan)<br />

GMT+8 hours (Western China)<br />

Flight time from UK:<br />

7.5 hours (Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan)<br />

10 hours (China)<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip along the Silk Route on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Trucks on the Torugart pass


Suggested itineraries<br />

KAZAKHSTAN<br />

MONGOLIA<br />

KAZAKHSTAN<br />

UZBEKISTAN KYRGYZSTAN<br />

Urumqi<br />

Khiva<br />

Bishkek<br />

Turpan<br />

Karakol<br />

Tashkent<br />

Bukhara<br />

Samarkand Kashgar<br />

CHINA<br />

Torugart pass<br />

Dunhuang<br />

Railway line<br />

Beijing<br />

I<br />

I<br />

I<br />

I I<br />

I<br />

Xian<br />

I I<br />

I I<br />

I<br />

I<br />

UZBEKISTAN<br />

Khiva<br />

Bukhara<br />

TURKMENISTAN<br />

KYRGYZSTAN<br />

Tashkent<br />

Samarkand<br />

I<br />

AFGHANISTAN<br />

TIBET<br />

AFGHANISTAN<br />

Classic Silk Route<br />

A classic journey and one of the most beautiful<br />

in the world, taking you along the Silk Route of<br />

Western China, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Fly overnight to Beijing.<br />

Arriving into Beijing, transfer to a<br />

flight on to Xian, with the rest of the<br />

day to relax.<br />

Fly to the oasis town of Dunhuang in<br />

the Gobi desert.<br />

Visit Mogao, site of the Thousand<br />

Buddha Caves. In the afternoon, visit<br />

the towering Mingsha sand dunes.<br />

Take an overnight train to Turpan.<br />

Arrive in Turpan in the morning.<br />

Visit the ransacked caves at Bezeklik<br />

before visiting a traditional Uighur<br />

village, the ruins of Gaochang and the<br />

tombs of Astana.<br />

Visit the ruined city of Jiaohe. Return<br />

to Turpan via the karez irrigation<br />

system museum.<br />

Drive to Urumqi to take a flight to<br />

Kashgar, China’s westernmost city.<br />

Take a daytrip along the breathtaking<br />

Karakoram Highway to Lake Karakul.<br />

Visit the world famous Kashgar<br />

Sunday market. In the afternoon,<br />

explore the main bazaar in the<br />

city centre.<br />

Cross the 3,752m Torugart Pass<br />

into Kyrgyzstan.<br />

Uighur children, Kashgar<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Day 18<br />

Day 19<br />

Day 20<br />

Day 21<br />

Continue your journey deeper into<br />

Kyrgyzstan, to the town of Karakol.<br />

En route, skirt the southern edge of<br />

picturesque Lake Issyk Kul.<br />

Do some walking in the gorgeous<br />

alpine valley of Jeti Oghuz.<br />

Drive around the northern edge of<br />

Lake Issyk Kul to the Kyrgyz capital<br />

of Bishkek.<br />

Fly to Tashkent in neighbouring<br />

Uzbekistan.<br />

Fly to the walled city of Khiva.<br />

Explore the city in the afternoon.<br />

Drive from Khiva on to Bukhara.<br />

Explore the highlights of Bukhara,<br />

including the ominous Ark where<br />

Connolly and Stoddart famously met<br />

their fate in June 1842.<br />

A day at leisure to people-watch or<br />

continue your exploration of Bukhara.<br />

Drive to the legendary city of<br />

Samarkand, stopping at Tamerlane’s<br />

former hometown of Shakhrisabz<br />

en route.<br />

Visit the mighty Registan, Avenue of<br />

Tombs, Bibi Khanym mosque and<br />

Tamerlane’s mausoleum.<br />

Return to Tashkent in time for your<br />

flight back to the UK in the<br />

afternoon, arriving later in the day.<br />

Stay longer<br />

For those looking for a truly epic trip, this itinerary<br />

could be extended through Turkmenistan to Iran,<br />

and even on to Istanbul from there.<br />

Uzbekistan Discovered<br />

This shorter itinerary will see you standing in the<br />

shadows of some of the best architecture along<br />

the Silk Route including the legendary cities of<br />

Samarkand and Bukhara. Starting and ending in<br />

Tashkent, you’ll visit the walled city of Khiva, the<br />

‘Holy City’ of Bukhara and the incredible<br />

architecture of Samarkand.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Fly overnight to Tashkent.<br />

Arrive into Tashkent, after time to<br />

rest take a half-day tour of the<br />

Uzbek capital city.<br />

Fly to Khiva and explore the<br />

old town.<br />

A further day in Khiva.<br />

Drive to the ‘Holy City’ of Bukhara.<br />

Explore the highlights of Bukhara<br />

with your guide.<br />

At leisure in Bukhara.<br />

Drive to Samarkand breaking the<br />

journey at Tamerlane’s former home<br />

town of Shakhrisabz on the way.<br />

Visit the main sights of Samarkand.<br />

At leisure to explore Samarkand as<br />

you wish.<br />

Return to Tashkent for your<br />

afternoon flight back to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Neighbouring Kyrgyzstan can easily be combined<br />

with this itinerary to make for a great two<br />

week trip.<br />

Traditional embroidery, Uzbekistan<br />

Necropolis, Samarkand<br />

www.audleytravel.com/silkroute ● 01993 838 205 ● Silk Route 61


Iran<br />

Prepare to be surprised. This huge<br />

country, three times the size of France,<br />

contains a bewildering array of world-class<br />

sites, lasting testament to a tumultuous<br />

5,000 year history that has left an indelible<br />

mark on both East and West. The country’s<br />

bounty of historic places is without equal in<br />

the Islamic world. The jewel in the crown is<br />

Esfahan, a beautiful city and shining<br />

example of glorious Islamic architecture and<br />

Persian culture, it has one of the biggest and<br />

most spectacular city squares in the world.<br />

Together with Shiraz and nearby Persepolis,<br />

this triumvirate forms the core of any<br />

journey to the country. Away from these<br />

highlights, there is much else to drink in. In<br />

the northwest the city of Tabriz has been<br />

famous for the manufacture of carpets for a<br />

thousand years. In the far south are the<br />

ancient remains of the Elamite civilisation<br />

at Choqa Zanbil. In the centre are the<br />

picturesque villages of the Zagros<br />

Mountains, giving way to the deserts of<br />

Eastern Iran and the cities of Kerman.<br />

To the east is the city of Mashhad, home to<br />

the mausoleum of Imam Reza, a direct<br />

descendant of the Prophet Mohammed.<br />

62


<strong>Audley</strong> in Iran<br />

7<br />

5<br />

2<br />

6<br />

1<br />

4<br />

3<br />

We feel that Iran is a greatly underrated<br />

destination and much misunderstood. We<br />

have taken the time to go and visit ourselves,<br />

to see what the situation is truly like. Every<br />

one of us who has been has come back<br />

enamoured with the friendliness of the<br />

people, the diversity of the culture and the<br />

sheer unexpectedness of it all. For those<br />

who want to really discover every nook and<br />

cranny, we suggest having a national guide,<br />

who would accompany you throughout your<br />

time in the country. For those who prefer a<br />

little more independence, we can arrange a<br />

driver to accompany you – he or she would<br />

speak enough English to communicate, but<br />

would leave you to discover the sights.<br />

Whichever style of travel you choose –<br />

you can be sure of a memorable visit to<br />

this fascinating country.<br />

Political situation<br />

Wind towers, Yazd<br />

1 Esfahan<br />

Iran’s masterpiece, an exquisite<br />

city and one of the most<br />

beautiful in the Islamic world.<br />

4 Yazd<br />

This desert city has winding<br />

lanes and wind towers.<br />

5 Abyaneh<br />

Experience rural Iran in this<br />

picturesque, verdant village.<br />

6 Tehran<br />

Iran’s capital is difficult to love –<br />

but it has some great museums<br />

and impressive palaces.<br />

7 Kashan<br />

A majestic bazaar and some<br />

beautiful Qajar era mansions.<br />

Teahouse, Esfahan<br />

Iran’s image in the West is a predominently<br />

political one and fails to paint the full picture<br />

of this remarkable country. Where we ought<br />

to see a complex and diverse nation born of<br />

Empire and conquest, we more usually see a<br />

one-dimensional, sclerotic theocracy in a<br />

perpetual state of defiance. This should not<br />

deter anyone from visiting. On the contrary,<br />

ordinary people that you encounter on your<br />

trip will treat you in the manner of an<br />

honoured guest. As with all countries in<br />

which <strong>Audley</strong> operates, the UK Foreign &<br />

Commonwealth Office acts as an arbiter of<br />

whether countries are safe to visit, and we<br />

will always follow their advice.<br />

2<br />

Shiraz<br />

A relaxed city and the final<br />

resting place of many of Iran’s<br />

great poets, Shiraz is an ideal<br />

base from which to explore the<br />

region’s antiquities.<br />

3<br />

Persepolis<br />

Find out more<br />

Marvel at this ancient city, once<br />

the heart of one of the world’s<br />

mightiest empires, hidden under<br />

the sands for thousands of years.<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Iran, please see<br />

page 67.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Iran<br />

specialists 01993 838 265<br />

Tomb of Hafez, Shiraz<br />

Statue, Persepolis<br />

Iran 63


Bazaar, Shiraz<br />

Tehran<br />

There is nowhere better in Iran than Tehran to<br />

get an overview of Persian history and culture.<br />

The museums here are amongst the best in the<br />

Middle East and are an essential part of any visit.<br />

The pick of them is probably the Golestan Palace,<br />

though the National Museum of Iran and the<br />

National Jewels Museum are fantastic to stroll<br />

through. Like any other capital Tehran has its<br />

fair share of problems. On some days the traffic<br />

can seem like a glacial flow, but try not to let<br />

this negative image blot out the many positives<br />

of a visit here.<br />

Shiraz<br />

There’s no wine here. If there were this would<br />

be the most convivial city in the Middle East. The<br />

locals are friendly, liberal and literate; the climate<br />

is pleasant for most of the year; and the nearby<br />

attractions of Persepolis and Naqsh-e-Rostam are<br />

the equal of anything in Athens or Rome. If you<br />

like bazaars then welcome to the best one in Iran,<br />

selling everything from carpets to cake under a<br />

vaulted ceiling dating back 250 years. Shiraz also<br />

excels in architecture – indeed many of its finest<br />

buildings were built to rival Esfahan.<br />

Detail, Golestan Palace, Tehran<br />

Persepolis and the<br />

Persian Empire<br />

Beneath the searing heat of the Persian sun,<br />

backed by Mt Rahmat, lie the ruins of the<br />

once-great Achaemenid Empire. Smothered<br />

in sand and rock until the 1930s, this amazing<br />

site was once a religious and cultural<br />

powerhouse, dominating peoples as disparate<br />

as the Scythians of Siberia and the Copts of<br />

Ethiopia. It is this ancient empire that<br />

has given today’s Iranians a distinctly<br />

un-Arabic culture and character. Whilst most<br />

Iranians see themselves as Islamic, they do<br />

not consider themselves as Arabic, but as<br />

distinctly Iranian or Persian. This is a direct<br />

consequence of the vast empire once<br />

controlled from Persepolis, which continues<br />

to loom large in the national psyche.<br />

Columns of the Great Hall, Persepolis<br />

Carving detail, Persepolis<br />

Persepolis succumbed finally to Alexander<br />

the Great, whose thirst for conquest was so<br />

thoroughly slaked here that he left only<br />

rubble – though this alone is supremely<br />

impressive, reminding the casual visitor<br />

of the sheer depth and longevity of Persian<br />

history and culture. Anyone with even a<br />

passing interest in antiquity should make a<br />

visit here their first priority.<br />

64


Bridge of 33 arches, Esfahan Iman Mosque, Esfahan Ceiling of Iman Mosque, Esfahan<br />

Shah Abbas, who made Esfahan his capital<br />

Esfahan<br />

Imagine an architectural portfolio so astonishing<br />

in its craftsmanship that it epitomises the best of<br />

five hundred years of Islamic culture, and you<br />

have imagined Esfahan. There are at least a dozen<br />

sights of dazzling quality here, including three of<br />

the finest religious buildings anywhere – the Jame,<br />

Imam and Sheikh Lotfollah Mosques. These would<br />

rank alongside the glories of Damascus,<br />

Samarkand and Istanbul in any list of the mustsees<br />

of the Islamic world. Nothing can prepare<br />

you for the heart-stopping moment when you<br />

first see the scale and grandeur of Imam Square,<br />

the world’s second largest public space, containing<br />

within it the zenith of Persian art and architecture.<br />

Walking along the banks of the Zayandeh River,<br />

exploring the Armenian quarter or simply<br />

relaxing in a teahouse, Esfahan is an unmitigated<br />

delight and one of the best places in Iran to<br />

meet local people, for whom this city is their<br />

proudest achievement.<br />

Schoolgirls playing, Esfahan<br />

THE ABBASI, ESFAHAN<br />

Built around the remains of a caravanserai<br />

originally established by Shah Abbas, The Abbasi<br />

is Esfahan’s, if not Iran’s, best and most<br />

characterful hotel – though as with the rest of<br />

Iran, do not expect outstanding service. In many<br />

respects, The Abbasi is like a museum. Everything<br />

is on a grand scale, and walking into the huge<br />

courtyard cannot fail to impress. There is a<br />

swimming pool and sauna (single sex only,<br />

available on a rotational basis) and a choice of<br />

attractive restaurants, with outdoor dining in the<br />

central courtyard a real treat in spring and<br />

summer. The location, within walking distance of<br />

Imam Square, cannot be faulted. The ornate<br />

breakfast room is remarkable and may just be<br />

the grandest room you’ll ever have breakfast in!<br />

Courtyard at The Abbasi, Esfahan<br />

Carpet shop, Esfahan<br />

Iman Square, Esfahan<br />

www.audleytravel.com/iran ● 01993 838 265 ● Iran 65


Badgirs, Yazd<br />

Mosaic at Friday mosque, Yazd<br />

Woman with her donkey, Abyaneh<br />

Old town, Yazd<br />

Yazd<br />

The centre of Iran is dominated by the Zagros<br />

mountains and the Dasht-e Kavir desert.<br />

Squeezed between the two is Yazd, the centre<br />

of Zoroastrianism and an excellent place to<br />

walk through and explore. The architecture<br />

here is unique in Iran, particularly the traditional<br />

badgir towers – providing an ancient form of<br />

air-conditioning to the adobe houses below.<br />

Yazd is also home to some excellent, characterful<br />

accommodation options tucked away in the<br />

corners of the bazaar.<br />

Courtyard hotel, Yazd<br />

COURTYARD HOTELS, YAZD<br />

Yazd has always been a wealthy town owing to<br />

its location on key trade routes. In the 18th and<br />

19th centuries, merchants in the town built grand<br />

homes, set around several courtyards. Some of<br />

these have now been converted into hotels, and<br />

offer some of the country’s most characterful<br />

accommodation. Many are in the heart of the<br />

old town, amongst winding lanes, adding to the<br />

atmosphere. Two of our favourites are the Hotel<br />

Dad and the Fahadan, but there are many others.<br />

Village of Abyaneh<br />

Further afield<br />

Most visitors to Iran take in the key cities of<br />

Esfahan, Shiraz and Yazd, but this is a large,<br />

diverse country, with much else to offer. An<br />

easy place to add on to an itinerary is the village<br />

of Abyaneh, close to Esfahan. This pretty village<br />

is unspoilt, accessible, and gives a taste of rural<br />

life in Iran. To the north of the capital are the<br />

Alborz Mountains and the Caspian Sea. Heading<br />

west, Kurds and Azaris start to dominate, and<br />

the landscape is surprisingly verdant. The city<br />

of Tabriz, home to some of the world’s greatest<br />

carpet makers is a great base to explore the<br />

surrounding region – including the village of<br />

Kandovan, where the entire population lives<br />

in caves.<br />

Between Tehran and the Iraqi border are the<br />

Kurdish provinces, full of precipitous mountain<br />

villages, stark and haunting scenery and a culture<br />

that has weathered the vicissitudes of history for<br />

thousands of years. East of Tehran, the landscape<br />

becomes much drier and desert like. The city of<br />

Mashhad, near the Turkmenistan border is home<br />

to Iran’s holiest shrine, the tomb of Shia Islam’s<br />

eighth Imam, Imam Reza. A visit here is to truly<br />

enter the heart of the Shia, and therefore the<br />

heart of the Iranian experience.<br />

Building for performing of rituals, Yazd<br />

66<br />

Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Yazd


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Iran specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Esfahan<br />

Tehran<br />

Abyaneh<br />

Yazd<br />

Tehran<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 265<br />

Shiraz<br />

Persepolis<br />

Esfahan<br />

Getting around<br />

Yazd<br />

Once in Iran, we suggest using private vehicles to<br />

give you the maximum flexibility. These are of a<br />

western standard, air conditioned and will be<br />

driven by experienced, safe drivers used to<br />

dealing with the sometimes hectic traffic<br />

conditions in Iranian cities.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Considering its location, Iran has unusually<br />

diverse weather. The north is very hot in summer<br />

and cold in winter. In the south you’re in the<br />

Persian Gulf, so expect pretty warm days even in<br />

December and January. Broadly speaking the best<br />

times of year to visit are in spring and autumn,<br />

when there are no extremes of temperature in<br />

most places.<br />

Time difference: GMT+3.5 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 6 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Iran on our website, alternatively<br />

please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />

Classic Iran<br />

This 13 day trip is a comprehensive visit to this<br />

most fascinating of countries. Starting in Tehran,<br />

you’ll visit the desert town of Yazd, Persepolis, as<br />

well as the incredible city of Esfahan. Giving you a<br />

taste of rural life in Iran, you’ll also spend a night<br />

in the pretty village of Abyaneh.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Extensions<br />

Fly from London to Tehran overnight.<br />

After time to relax, start exploring<br />

the Iranian capital.<br />

Visit the Qajar era Golestan Palace,<br />

the Carpet Museum and take in the<br />

impressive National Jewels Museum.<br />

Drive to the village of Abyaneh.<br />

Spend the afternoon walking in<br />

the village.<br />

Drive to Yazd, stopping en-route at<br />

Nain, centre of carpet production.<br />

Spend the day exploring Yazd, in the<br />

afternoon visit ancient Zoroastrian<br />

sights including the Towers of Silence.<br />

Continue to Shiraz, via Pasargadae,<br />

location of the tomb of Cyrus<br />

the Great.<br />

Leave the city to see Persepolis, in<br />

the evening explore Shiraz’s bazaars.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Esfahan. Take a sunset stroll<br />

along the Zayandeh River.<br />

Take in Imam Square and the<br />

spectacular Imam and Sheikh Lotfallah<br />

Mosques, and Ali Qapu and Chehel<br />

Sotun Palaces.<br />

A day at leisure to continue<br />

exploring Esfahan.<br />

Return to Tehran via the Fin Gardens<br />

in Kashan and Qom, the heartland of<br />

the Islamic Revolution in Iran.<br />

An early start for your return flight<br />

back to the UK.<br />

Iran can potentially be combined with the<br />

countries of Central Asia and the Silk Route,<br />

to make a unique and memorable trip.<br />

Iran Uncovered<br />

This trip is designed to give you an overview of<br />

the major sites and is perfect for those with less<br />

time. Starting in Tehran, you drive to the intriguing<br />

desert city of Yazd. From here you continue to<br />

Esfahan to savour the stunning architecture and<br />

beauty of Iman Square, before returning to Tehran<br />

for a final night.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Stay longer<br />

Fly from London to Tehran arriving<br />

the following morning.<br />

Transfer to your hotel for a few<br />

hours to relax and unwind, then<br />

explore the Iranian capital.<br />

Drive to Yazd via Qom and Nain.<br />

Spend the day exploring the desert<br />

city of Yazd.<br />

Drive onto Esfahan, arriving at<br />

lunchtime.<br />

A full day tour of Esfahan.<br />

After a morning in Esfahan, return<br />

to Tehran.<br />

Return to the UK, with a late<br />

afternoon arrival.<br />

If you have a few extra days you can include<br />

Shiraz and Persepolis as in our Classic Iran trip.<br />

Carving detail, Persepolis<br />

Mosque, Shiraz<br />

www.audleytravel.com/iran ● 01993 838 265 ● Iran 67


Ukraine<br />

Often overlooked as a destination,<br />

wherever you choose to travel to<br />

in this huge country you'll be richly<br />

rewarded by experiencing a part of the<br />

world that few people choose to go to.<br />

It has been the stage for many<br />

historical events: The Yalta Conference<br />

in World War II, when Churchill,<br />

Stalin and Roosevelt met to decide<br />

the fate of post-war Europe, was<br />

hosted here, and it was the site of the<br />

fateful Charge of the Light Brigade<br />

in the Crimean War, seared into<br />

British folklore by Tennyson's poem.<br />

Culturally, Ukraine has a verve and<br />

vibrancy unique to a newly<br />

independent country, while historical<br />

influences remain. Scenically, the Black<br />

Sea coast offers the beautiful rolling<br />

coastline of the Crimean peninsula<br />

and the unique and precious wetlands<br />

of the Danube river delta. Elsewhere,<br />

the countryside is dotted with castles<br />

and pretty villages that have remained<br />

unchanged for centuries.<br />

Market square, Lviv<br />

1<br />

Kiev<br />

Capital of a newly independent<br />

Ukraine, spiritual home of the<br />

Russian people.<br />

2<br />

Livadia palace, Yalta<br />

Rich in atmosphere, this is<br />

where Stalin, Churchill and<br />

Roosevelt met to carve up<br />

Europe between them in the<br />

dying days of World War II.<br />

3<br />

The Crimea<br />

5<br />

1<br />

Pretty coastal scenery, warm<br />

pleasant weather and many<br />

sites of cultural interest make<br />

this one of Ukraine’s most<br />

attractive regions.<br />

St Andrew’s Church, Kiev<br />

4 Sevastopol<br />

Site of the Crimean war and<br />

home to the Russian fleet, this<br />

city has a long naval history.<br />

5<br />

Lviv<br />

6<br />

3<br />

Cultural capital of Ukraine,<br />

this undiscovered gem is<br />

reminiscent of Prague before<br />

the stag parties and tourist<br />

hordes arrived.<br />

4<br />

2<br />

Coastline, Crimea<br />

6 Odessa<br />

A grand, crumbling city by<br />

the sea.<br />

68


Kiev<br />

Ukraine’s bustling capital, Kiev, has a wealth of<br />

history far greater than its current importance<br />

today would suggest. It is from here that the<br />

neighbouring countries of Russia and Belarus<br />

descended, and the significance of Kiev in the<br />

history of art, architecture and religion of these<br />

areas is clear in the beautiful old town and<br />

stunning churches. The 11th century St Sophia’s<br />

Cathedral is an exquisite jewel, while the<br />

Andrievsky Ascent has a pretty collection of<br />

17th and 18th century dwellings, some of which<br />

are now small art galleries. A visit to the famous<br />

Caves Monastery is also a must – founded in<br />

1051 by Greek monks after Ukraine adopted<br />

Christianity as its religion, this is the home of<br />

the Ukrainian and Russian orthodox churches.<br />

Lviv<br />

At various times part of Poland, the Austro-<br />

Hungarian Empire and the Soviet Union, Lviv<br />

(or Lvov in Russian) is a charming, much<br />

underrated destination. Despite (or perhaps<br />

because of) this multicultural history, it is the<br />

centre of Ukrainian culture. Unlike in Kiev, little<br />

Russian is heard on the streets, and the city is<br />

home to the more fervent Ukrainian nationalists.<br />

The old town is a delight to wander round,<br />

with grand old buildings reminiscent of<br />

Budapest or Prague.<br />

Ukrainian lady with needlework, Lviv<br />

Swallow’s Nest Castle, near Yalta<br />

Odessa and Yalta<br />

The southern city of Odessa on the Black Sea is<br />

well worth a visit, offering museums, architecture<br />

and the grand spectacle of the Potemkin Steps,<br />

made famous in Eisenstein’s classic film ‘Battleship<br />

Potemkin’. Further down the Black Sea coast on<br />

the Crimean peninsula, the long-established resort<br />

of Yalta, sits between the brooding Crimean<br />

Mountains and the Black Sea. The nearby Livadia<br />

Palace is rich in atmosphere, having hosted the<br />

famous Yalta Conference of 1945 where Stalin,<br />

Roosevelt and Churchill decided the direction of<br />

the post-World War II world. Also within reach<br />

of Yalta is the town of Sevastopol – site of the<br />

key battles of the Crimean War, as well as the<br />

ill-fated Charge of the Light Brigade.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Ukraine<br />

Ukraine is easily accessible, with direct flights<br />

linking London and Kiev. At the time of going<br />

to print, no visa is required for EU citizens,<br />

making arrival simple and hassle free. Once<br />

there, we make use of the reliable train<br />

network and domestic flights to cover the<br />

longer distances. Ukraine can easily be<br />

combined with Russia, and a trip to ‘The<br />

Three Capitals’ of Kiev, Moscow and St<br />

Petersburg is highly recommended.<br />

Practicalities<br />

A week in Ukraine is long enough to see<br />

Kiev and one or two other places. To see<br />

Kiev, Lviv, Odessa and Yalta, you would need<br />

at least ten days, ideally two weeks. If you<br />

want to combine Kiev with Moscow and<br />

St Petersburg, allow at least 10 days. Kiev is<br />

a popular city with business travellers and<br />

has a reasonable range of good quality hotels,<br />

with one or two smaller boutique style<br />

places. Outside of Kiev, the choice is a little<br />

more limited but there are more and more<br />

places opening.<br />

The best time to travel in the Ukraine is<br />

springtime, when the weather is clement and<br />

blossom is on the trees, and autumn when<br />

the weather is also most pleasant. Summer is<br />

enjoyable in the north, but the south can be<br />

extremely hot and the beaches crowded.<br />

Livadia Palace, near Yalta<br />

Caves Monastery, Kiev<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Ukraine, please<br />

see our website.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Ukraine<br />

specialists 01993 838 245<br />

Ukraine 69


Russia<br />

Stretching from the Black Sea across the<br />

vast central expanses of Siberia to fiery<br />

Kamchatka and the Bering Straits, Russia is<br />

a country of epic proportions. Long hidden<br />

behind the Soviet curtain, and still much<br />

misunderstood, a visit here will confound<br />

your stereotypes. It is its history that captures<br />

the imagination – the taming of this vast<br />

land, the rise and fall of one of the world’s<br />

greatest imperial empires, and the<br />

replacement of this with a vast communist<br />

one. In the west, Moscow and St Petersburg<br />

offer tremendous monuments to the grandeur<br />

of the Tsars and the imposing ambition<br />

of the communist days. Beyond the cities,<br />

amongst the canals and waterways,<br />

exquisite onion-domed wooden churches and<br />

traditional kremlin remain in a land where<br />

the rise and fall of communism changed<br />

little. Crossing the Urals to Asia, the great<br />

lakes and taiga forest of Siberia await. The<br />

trains chug endlessly across this vast expanse,<br />

connecting remote villages and towns to the<br />

outside world. To travel along this great<br />

Trans-Siberian railway is to experience one<br />

of the world’s greatest journeys, crossing<br />

continents and connecting east and west.<br />

70


<strong>Audley</strong> in Russia<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />

Lake Baikal<br />

5<br />

Russia can be experienced in countless ways.<br />

St Petersburg makes for an ideal city break<br />

for those with limited time. Moscow and<br />

St Petersburg can be combined into a one<br />

week trip. Kiev in the Ukraine can easily be<br />

added to make for a fascinating trip tracing<br />

the entire history of the region. The epic<br />

Trans-Siberian rail journey linking Russia with<br />

China and Mongolia is one of the world’s<br />

greatest journeys. For those who prefer to<br />

take things at a more leisurely pace, a cruise<br />

between Moscow and St Petersburg is a<br />

relaxing way to see some of the smaller<br />

towns and villages of Russia. We have<br />

travelled extensively in the region, seeking<br />

out the best located hotels, the most<br />

comfortable and convenient trains, and the<br />

best order in which to see things.<br />

3<br />

Kremlin Cathedrals, Moscow<br />

1 The Hermitage<br />

3 The Kremlin<br />

One of the world’s most<br />

impressive collections, all<br />

housed in the splendour of the<br />

former residence of the Tsar.<br />

2 St Petersburg’s<br />

summer palaces<br />

Built by the tsars to escape the<br />

heat of the city in summer, a<br />

visit here gives you an idea of<br />

the unlimited wealth and power<br />

of Russia’s imperial rulers.<br />

Tsar's Gold Train, Lake Baikal<br />

The powerhouse of world<br />

communism, and where<br />

Russia’s rulers still hold sway<br />

over the largest country in<br />

the world.<br />

4 Lake Baikal<br />

‘The pearl of Siberia’,<br />

containing around 20% of<br />

the world’s fresh water.<br />

Changing of the guards, Kremlin<br />

5 Suzdal<br />

A pretty little town unspoilt<br />

by Soviet era architecture,<br />

seemingly with a church on<br />

every corner.<br />

Train journeys<br />

Russia has one of the largest<br />

networks of railways in the<br />

world, including the famous<br />

Trans-Siberian route. A train<br />

journey is a great way to meet<br />

some of the locals.<br />

Take in a ballet<br />

Both Moscow and St Petersburg<br />

have world-famous ballet<br />

companies.<br />

Accommodation<br />

In the Soviet era, hotels in Russia had a<br />

reputation for having pokey rooms, poor<br />

service, and even worse food. These days<br />

things have moved on, and in all the major<br />

cities there are now well managed hotels<br />

offering good service and a wide range of<br />

facilities. St Petersburg has the best range of<br />

accommodation, with some beautiful historic<br />

five star hotels, as well as better value smaller<br />

boutique style establishments. Moscow is a<br />

popular business destination, so hotels tend<br />

to be less characterful.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Russia, please<br />

see pages 78-79.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Russia<br />

specialists 01993 838 230<br />

Russia 71


Canal scene, St Petersburg<br />

St Petersburg<br />

St Petersburg rivals Venice and Paris as one of the<br />

world’s most romantic cities. Built to order by<br />

Peter the Great in 1703, the city boasts a<br />

magnificent profusion of grand palaces, galleries<br />

and theatres including the magnificent Hermitage,<br />

once a winter palace to the Tsars and now home<br />

to one of the world’s finest art collections. This<br />

was the heart of the Russian Empire at its most<br />

glorious and extravagant, a period of wealth and<br />

sophistication that bequeathed the city such a fine<br />

cultural legacy. Great writers and composers<br />

including Dostoevsky, Tchaikovsky and Rimsky<br />

Korsakov produced their finest works here, and<br />

today the Kirov Ballet, based at the Mariinsky<br />

theatre, continues to rival Moscow’s more<br />

celebrated Bolshoi. Thanks to its northerly<br />

latitudes the city throngs with life during the<br />

famous White Nights of midsummer. For those<br />

who prefer a quieter experience, spring and<br />

autumn offer magnificent colours, and in the<br />

depths of winter the snow-covered landscapes<br />

transform St Petersburg into its Dr Zhivago<br />

best. Whether admiring the glorious palaces<br />

from a canal boat cruise, exploring the fabulous<br />

treasures of the Hermitage or Russian Museum,<br />

or simply taking a stroll down Nevsky Prospekt,<br />

St Petersburg offers an unforgettable introduction<br />

to Russia with a distinctly European twist.<br />

Navel cadets, St Petersburg<br />

St Petersburg’s<br />

Summer Palaces<br />

Many of Russia’s rulers built sumptuous<br />

summer palaces around the city. During the<br />

summer months the entire court would<br />

decamp here to escape the heat, the dust,<br />

and the smell. There are around half a dozen<br />

palaces in differing states of repair, most of<br />

which can be visited. The oldest is that of<br />

Peter the Great. Built overlooking the Gulf of<br />

Finland, Peterhof is known for its Grand<br />

Cascade – a series of over 140 different<br />

fountains, engineered by Peter himself.<br />

Perhaps the most impressive palace is that<br />

associated with Catherine the Great, another<br />

of Russia’s most revered rulers. Designed by<br />

Rastrelli (architect of the Hermitage as well),<br />

it glitters like a jewel in the landscaped<br />

HELVETIA HOTEL, ST PETERSBURG<br />

Located a short stroll from St Petersburg’s main<br />

thoroughfare, Nevsky Prospect, the Helvetia offers<br />

good value accommodation in the heart of the city.<br />

Rooms, which are clean, comfortable and of a<br />

reasonable size, are all set around a pleasant<br />

courtyard. The hotel is in a charming 19th century<br />

building and has several restaurants available for<br />

guests, or there are many options available nearby.<br />

Catherine Palace, St Petersburg<br />

grounds. The amber room contains more<br />

than six tonnes of amber, and is the palace’s<br />

centrepiece. The nearby Pavlovsk Palace was<br />

built by Catherine the Great’s son. Although<br />

not nearly as richly decorated as others, the<br />

grounds are a delight to wander round, with<br />

countless slightly crumbling statues, chapels<br />

and follies to be discovered.<br />

72


The Hermitage<br />

The Hermitage (also known as the Winter<br />

Palace) appeals on many levels. From here a<br />

succession of Romanov Tsars ruled over<br />

Russia for over two hundred years. It was the<br />

storming of this building that ushered in the<br />

Bolshevik revolution of 1917. Many rooms<br />

are richly decorated, filled with gifts to one<br />

Tsar or another, along with beautiful<br />

antique furniture.<br />

The Hermitage is also, famously, one of the<br />

world’s premier art galleries. The collection<br />

was started by Catherine the Great, and<br />

grew substantially following the 1917<br />

revolution, when the state seized the<br />

collections of many of Russia’s noble families<br />

and leading industrialists. The collection<br />

contains impressive pieces from most<br />

periods, with especially notable paintings by<br />

Rubens, Rembrandt, Matisse and Picasso, to<br />

mention but a few. To see all of the pieces<br />

would take weeks – we suggest a half-day<br />

visit to see the highlights. It is also possible<br />

to take a fascinating behind the scenes trip<br />

around the Hermitage storage facilities,<br />

where the bulk of the museum’s three<br />

million exhibits are stored.<br />

Novgorod<br />

Peter and Paul Fortress, St Petersburg<br />

Mushroom seller, Novgorod<br />

Grand Hotel Europe, St Petersburg<br />

GRAND HOTEL EUROPE,<br />

ST PETERSBURG<br />

Russia’s oldest hotel, the Grand Hotel Europe is<br />

something of a legend. A bastion of European<br />

culture throughout the years of communism, the<br />

Grand Hotel Europe stands proudly on Nevsky<br />

Prospect, opposite the Gostini Dvor luxury<br />

market. Visited by Tchaikovsky and his wife for<br />

their honeymoon, a string quartet plays every<br />

Friday evening in the restaurant. Now under the<br />

renowned management of Orient Express Hotels,<br />

the Grand Hotel Europe boasts a level of<br />

excellence that has made it one of the ‘Leading<br />

Hotels of the World’. Stroll out along Nevsky and<br />

find yourself alongside the Kazan Cathedral,<br />

Fontanka Embankment, or the Church on Spilt<br />

Blood. We especially like the Terrace rooms, each<br />

of which has an individual terrace with excellent<br />

views over the city – perfect for relaxing on after<br />

a day spent taking in the sights!<br />

Just three hours’ drive south of St Petersburg,<br />

Novgorod is one of the most significant historical<br />

centres in the whole of Russia, still famed for its<br />

diverse and beautiful architecture. Though its<br />

name means ‘new town’ Novgorod’s origins date<br />

back to the 9th century, when it developed into<br />

one of Russia’s principle trading and ecclesiastical<br />

hubs. The reconstructed kremlin, the centrepiece<br />

of the town, contains the beautiful St Sophia’s<br />

cathedral, perhaps the oldest building in Russia<br />

with frescoes dating back to the 12th century.<br />

The city overflows with cultural relics, including<br />

the Palace of Facets, a 15th century clock tower,<br />

and numerous impressive churches, museums<br />

and galleries. Novgorod can be visited as a day<br />

trip from St Petersburg, or you can spend a<br />

night or two there en route between Moscow<br />

and St Petersburg.<br />

Fortress, Novgorod<br />

www.audleytravel.com/russia ● 01993 838 230 ● Russia 73


Russian river cruises<br />

Church of the Transfiguration, Kizhi Island<br />

A river cruise between Moscow and St<br />

Petersburg is a relaxing way to see a little more<br />

of Russia than just these two primary cities. With<br />

Russia being an expensive destination, it can also<br />

be a more cost effective way to see some of the<br />

villages, churches and monasteries of the pretty<br />

Russian countryside. The boats that ply the route<br />

are not super-luxurious, but all the ones we use<br />

are clean and comfortable with en suite cabins.<br />

The route<br />

The two cities are connected by a series of<br />

canals, as well as the mighty River Volga. The<br />

boats also cross the two largest lakes in Europe<br />

– Lake Onega and Lake Ladoga. You can travel<br />

in either direction. Boats generally stop at some<br />

of the so called Golden Ring towns – ancient<br />

towns and cities surrounding the capital, some of<br />

which predate Moscow. The longer cruises tend<br />

to spend more time here; the shorter ones just<br />

give you a taster.<br />

Kizhi Island and Goritsy Convent<br />

Kizhi Island in the middle of Lake Onega is<br />

home to one of Russia’s most iconic sites –<br />

the Church of the Transfiguration. With thirty<br />

domes, the church looks like something from a<br />

fairytale, all the more remarkable for being built<br />

entirely of wood in 1714 – no nails were used<br />

in its construction at all. There are a number<br />

of other notable wooden buildings on Kizhi<br />

that have been brought from the surrounding<br />

area to make for an interesting display.<br />

Roughly half way between Moscow and St<br />

Petersburg is Goritsy convent, famed as the<br />

place where Ivan the Terrible exiled not one,<br />

but two of his wives. Nearby is the Kirillov<br />

Belozersky Monastery, once one of the<br />

country’s most powerful.<br />

Yaroslavl and Uglich<br />

Legend has it that Yaroslavl was founded on the<br />

spot where Yaroslavl the Wise killed a bear set<br />

upon him by suspicious locals. The fine frescoes<br />

of the Church of Elijah the Prophet are amongst<br />

the best in the country and the heavily fortified<br />

Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour<br />

holds some of Russia’s oldest and finest religious<br />

icons. Uglich is a quaint if slightly shabby town,<br />

noted as the place where one of Ivan the<br />

Terrible’s sons was murdered by his successor.<br />

Interior of Church of Elijah the Prophet, Yaroslavl<br />

The M/S Tolstoy<br />

Religious procession, Yaroslavl<br />

74


Church of Dmitry, Uglich<br />

Classic Russia River Cruise<br />

This short itinerary is a great way to see some of<br />

the highlights of Russia, with the option to extend<br />

at either end for those that want to see more of<br />

Moscow and/or St Petersburg. As well as time in<br />

the two main cities, you’ll also visit the island of Kizhi,<br />

with its fairy tale wooden church and the historic<br />

convent of Goritsy. The cruise can also be taken<br />

from St Petersburg to Moscow.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Fly to Moscow.<br />

A full day tour of Moscow, including<br />

the Kremlin.<br />

Depart Moscow, arriving into Uglich in<br />

the afternoon.<br />

Cruise on to Goritsy.<br />

Continue on to the island of Kizhi.<br />

You’ll arrive in the village of Mandrogui<br />

in time for lunch on shore, before<br />

continuing to St Petersburg.<br />

Arrive in St Petersburg, where you will<br />

have a full day tour of the city.<br />

Return flight to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Both Moscow and St Petersburg have much to offer,<br />

and we can easily extend your time in either city.<br />

There are longer cruises available which visit<br />

Yaroslavl as well. For those that want to trace the<br />

history of Russia back to its beginnings, Kiev can<br />

potentially be added to the itinerary.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/russia ● 01993 838 230 ● Russia 75


Red Square and St Basil’s Cathedral, Moscow<br />

Moscow<br />

Medieval capital, heart of Soviet domination and<br />

powerhouse of the capitalist revolution, Moscow<br />

has for centuries acted as the fulcrum of Russian<br />

political, cultural and economic life. Though<br />

influence has shifted at times to St Petersburg,<br />

only Moscow can boast the legacy of these three<br />

distinct eras of Russian history. Amongst the<br />

medieval onion-domes of St Basil’s and the stark<br />

Soviet-era high-rise blocks, gleaming skyscrapers<br />

bear testimony to the excitement and opportunity<br />

of a 21st century, modern city. The list of worldrenowned<br />

historic sites, great buildings and galleries<br />

here is immense: Red Square, the Kremlin, the<br />

Pushkin Museum and Tretyakov Galleries, Arbat<br />

Street and the Bolshoi Theatre to name but a few.<br />

The Kremlin and Red Square<br />

Icons of Russia, the first glimpse of the Kremlin<br />

and Red Square cannot fail to inspire awe. The<br />

Kremlin was the heart of world communism for<br />

decades, and continues to be the President’s<br />

official residence. Perhaps surprisingly, it is notable<br />

for its collection of churches and cathedrals, many<br />

of which date back to the 15th century. As well as<br />

being the burial place of many of Russia’s rulers,<br />

the Kremlin also has a stunning collection of riches<br />

– from the Imperial Crown Jewels to the biggest<br />

single collection of Fabergé eggs in the world.<br />

Interestingly, the red in Red Square derives not<br />

76<br />

from the connection of red to communism, but<br />

as a corruption of the Russian word for ‘beautiful’,<br />

which is close to the word for red. Seeing it in<br />

the flesh, it’s easy to see why it was originally<br />

described as beautiful. With the Kremlin on one<br />

side and the chocolate box St Basil’s cathedral at<br />

the far end, this is one of the most impressive<br />

vistas in the world.<br />

MARRIOTT TVERSKAYA, MOSCOW<br />

Good value accommodation in Moscow is<br />

hard to come by, as the city is so popular with<br />

business travellers. The Marriott Tverskaya, whilst<br />

not especially characterful offers some great value<br />

over the weekend period. Conveniently located<br />

on Moscow’s famous Tverskaya Boulevard, Red<br />

Square and the Kremlin are around twenty<br />

minutes walk away. The 118 rooms are well<br />

appointed, and service is efficient and attentive.<br />

There’s a good quality restaurant on site,<br />

alternatively there are a range of restaurants in<br />

the immediate vicinity.<br />

Metro station, Moscow<br />

The Golden Ring<br />

Scattered amidst the plains, lakes and marshes<br />

northeast of Moscow are a collection of ancient<br />

Russian towns known collectively as the Golden<br />

Ring. This region played a significant role in the<br />

early days of the Russian state, and the splendid<br />

churches, monasteries and kremlins (city forts)<br />

that remain provide a wonderful architectural<br />

chronicle of this period. One of our favourite<br />

Golden Ring towns is the picturesque riverside<br />

town of Suzdal. Blessedly escaping much of the<br />

development that has blighted other Russian<br />

regions, the tranquil collection of wooden<br />

cottages, churches and monasteries makes this a<br />

delightful place to experience the atmosphere of<br />

pre-Soviet Russia. Suzdal can be visited as a (long)<br />

day trip from Moscow, or as part of a few days<br />

exploring more of the Golden Ring.<br />

Kamchatka<br />

Kamchatka – the Land of Fire and Ice – an apt<br />

title for one of the world’s most remote,<br />

forbidding yet spectacular destinations. This<br />

volcano-spined peninsula, jutting into the icy<br />

Bering Sea in Russia’s Far East, is home to hardy<br />

reindeer-herding peoples, huge grizzly bears and<br />

Steller’s Sea Eagle, all set to a seething backdrop<br />

of boiling hot springs and spouting geysers.<br />

With infrastructure limited, many destinations<br />

are accessible only by helicopter, making this a


Wooden house detail, Suzdal<br />

Monastery, Solovetsky Islands<br />

Babushka, Suzdal<br />

more expensive but infinitely fascinating region<br />

for the adventurous traveller. Flights from<br />

Moscow cross Siberia to distant Petropavlosk,<br />

from where the adventure begins by helicopter,<br />

boat or six-wheel drive truck. Kamchatka’s harsh<br />

climate makes June to September the best time<br />

to travel to this region.<br />

Solovetsky Islands<br />

In the far north of Russia, just shy of the Arctic<br />

Circle are the remote and beautiful Solovetski<br />

Islands. Home to a monastery since the<br />

15th century, the islands are a testament to<br />

human endurance, as well as human suffering.<br />

The monks who originally populated the islands<br />

overcame the harsh environment to establish one<br />

of the most important and richest monasteries<br />

in Russia. After the revolution, it became a<br />

notorious prison camp, with forced labourers<br />

being incarcerated in tortuous conditions.<br />

Recently re-established as a working monastery,<br />

the islands exude peace, and despite their grim<br />

history, feel like a special, spiritual place. Visitors<br />

can also relax, explore the islands by bike, go<br />

whale-watching, and enjoy being in a unique,<br />

unspoilt setting that few westerners experience.<br />

A trip here can easily be combined with a visit<br />

to Moscow and St Petersburg.<br />

Reindeer herd, Kamchatka<br />

The Three Capitals<br />

A trip to Kiev in Ukraine, Moscow and<br />

St Petersburg is to venture right through the<br />

history of the Russian peoples, visiting three<br />

contrasting capitals. Kiev, the modern-day<br />

Ukrainian capital was established sometime<br />

in the 6th century. Back then it was the<br />

ancient capital of the so called Rus (early<br />

Russians), who were most likely descended<br />

from Viking traders.<br />

In the 15th century, it was Moscow that<br />

emerged as the strongest regional power,<br />

defeating the descendents of Ghengis Khan,<br />

who had overrun the whole region. Rulers<br />

such as Ivan the Terrible expanded Russian<br />

territory and built iconic buildings like the<br />

Kremlin and St Basil’s cathedral. In 1703,<br />

Peter the Great founded the city of St<br />

Petersburg as his modern ‘window on the<br />

west’, making it his capital. From here a<br />

succession of Romanovs further expanded<br />

Russia into a huge empire, turning it into a<br />

major world power and financing the building<br />

of countless grand palaces, churches and<br />

monuments. In 1918 Lenin moved the capital<br />

back to Moscow, fearing a German assault<br />

on St Petersburg. Moscow has been the<br />

capital of Russia ever since.<br />

Kremlin, Moscow<br />

Caves Monastery, Kiev<br />

www.audleytravel.com/russia ● 01993 838 230 ● Russia 77


St Petersburg<br />

RUSSIA<br />

Moscow<br />

BELARUS<br />

Kremlin and Moscow skyline<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Russia specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 230<br />

Getting around<br />

With regular scheduled flights linking the UK<br />

with Moscow and St Petersburg in less than four<br />

hours, getting to Russia is simplicity itself. Once on<br />

the ground we can provide guidance to help you<br />

explore under your own steam, or alternatively<br />

we can arrange walking tours within the cities or<br />

private cars for journeys into the countryside. The<br />

efficient rail network is best for longer journeys –<br />

and certainly between St Petersburg and Moscow,<br />

this is a better option than flying. For those<br />

heading out east the great Trans-Siberian railway<br />

can be undertaken in its entirety, or alternatively<br />

experienced in sections, with domestic flights used<br />

to cover the great distances quickly and efficiently.<br />

Boarding a train, Siberia<br />

78<br />

Wooden House, Irkutsk<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✓ ✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Summer, with its long, light evenings and balmy<br />

temperatures, is the classic time to visit these<br />

northerly climes. However, we would suggest the<br />

autumn months of September and early October<br />

as being a great time to visit – the weather is not<br />

yet cold, and sites less busy. Winter is also a<br />

much underrated time. If you can bear the<br />

freezing temperatures, you will be rewarded with<br />

wonderful snowy vistas, reduced prices, and far<br />

fewer visitors.<br />

Time difference: GMT+3 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 4 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />

prices for your trip to Russia on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Classic Russia<br />

Moscow and St Petersburg are must-sees for any<br />

first time visitor to Russia. Moscow has a real buzz<br />

and swagger about it, while St Petersburg is a little<br />

more refined and aristocratic. Taking the train<br />

between the two cities is a good option, with<br />

overnight or day trains available.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Fly from the UK to Moscow.<br />

See Red Square and the Kremlin,<br />

travelling by Moscow’s ornate<br />

metro system.<br />

Continue to explore Moscow,<br />

taking in Novodevichy convent.<br />

Have more time in Moscow,<br />

exploring some of the many world<br />

class museums, before taking a train<br />

to St Petersburg – day trains or<br />

overnight trains are available.<br />

Start exploring St Petersburg, with<br />

a guided tour of the Hermitage in<br />

the afternoon.<br />

A day at leisure to continue exploring<br />

the city, perhaps visiting the Russian<br />

museum, or take a stroll along the<br />

city’s beautiful canals.<br />

A further day to either see the palace<br />

of Peterhof, or drink in more of the<br />

beautiful city centre.<br />

Visit the Summer Palace of<br />

Catherine the Great, before flying<br />

back to London.<br />

Stay longer<br />

You can easily spend a day or two more in<br />

St Petersburg. Alternatively, the Baltic capitals<br />

of Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius can be visited as part<br />

of a trip to the region.<br />

Fountains, Peterhof Summer Palace


Suggested itineraries<br />

St Petersburg<br />

St Petersburg<br />

ESTONIA<br />

St Petersburg<br />

LATVIA<br />

RUSSIA<br />

RUSSIA<br />

Kostroma<br />

Yaroslavl<br />

LITHUANIA<br />

Moscow<br />

Moscow<br />

Sergiev<br />

Posad<br />

Suzdal<br />

Sergiev Posad<br />

Moscow<br />

Suzdal<br />

BELARUS<br />

RUSSIA<br />

BELARUS<br />

BELARUS<br />

Kiev<br />

UKRAINE<br />

Moscow, St Petersburg and<br />

the Golden Ring<br />

As well as taking in the main highlights of Moscow<br />

and St Petersburg, this itinerary also includes time<br />

spent in the historic Golden Ring towns of Vladimir<br />

and Suzdal. These towns offer a glimpse of a<br />

slower pace of life and affords the opportunity to<br />

view some of the world’s most sumptuous and<br />

ornate Orthodox churches and cathedrals, many<br />

of which have been awarded UNESCO status.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Fly to Moscow.<br />

Take a walking tour of the Kremlin<br />

complex.<br />

Explore Moscow under your own<br />

steam, perhaps visiting the Tretyakov<br />

gallery, the country’s most important<br />

gallery for Russian art.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> out of the city to the pretty<br />

town of Suzdal via Vladimir.<br />

Half day guided tour of Suzdal and its<br />

pretty wooden buildings.<br />

Return to Moscow in time for an<br />

overnight sleeper train to<br />

St Petersburg.<br />

Arrive in St Petersburg in the<br />

morning, with the rest of the day<br />

at leisure.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> out to the spectacular Palace<br />

of Peter the Great by hydrofoil.<br />

Morning tour of the Hermitage.<br />

Visit the Summer Palace of<br />

Catherine the Great before flying<br />

back to London.<br />

Stay longer<br />

You can easily spend a day or two more in<br />

St Petersburg. There are also many other historic<br />

Golden Ring towns that could be visited as part<br />

of this trip, such as Yaroslavl.<br />

Historic Russia<br />

This itinerary is perfect for those looking to delve a<br />

little deeper into Russia’s history. Starting in<br />

Moscow, you’ll then move on to the Golden Ring<br />

towns that surround the capital – historic, pretty<br />

places, many of which predate Moscow.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Fly from the UK to Moscow.<br />

Take a walking tour of the Kremlin<br />

and Novodevichy Convent.<br />

Day at leisure to continue exploring<br />

Moscow, perhaps taking in some of<br />

Moscow’s world-class museums.<br />

Leave Moscow and head to Suzdal,<br />

stopping at the historic city of<br />

Vladimir enroute.<br />

A half day tour of Suzdal, with the<br />

afternoon at leisure.<br />

Drive on to Yaroslavl, passing<br />

through Kostroma on the way.<br />

See the highlights of Yaroslavl,<br />

including the Church of Elijah the<br />

Prophet with its beautifully<br />

preserved frescoes.<br />

Return to Moscow via the town of<br />

Rostov and the monastery of Sergiev<br />

Posad. In the evening fly back to<br />

the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

An additional night in Moscow at the end would<br />

make for a more relaxing itinerary. St Petersburg<br />

could easily be added at the end of the trip<br />

as well.<br />

The Three Capitals<br />

A great introduction to the culture and history of<br />

the Ukraine and Russia, this 10 day itinerary covers<br />

the three major cities – Kiev, Moscow and St.<br />

Petersburg. You start in Kiev – the ancient capital<br />

of the Kievan Rus and mother of all Russian cities,<br />

and continue to explore the historical sites of<br />

Moscow – the communist powerhouse, finishing<br />

your journey in St Petersburg – Russia’s ‘window<br />

to the west’.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Fly from the UK to Kiev.<br />

Take an introductory tour of the city,<br />

including St Sophia’s Cathedral and<br />

the Caves Monastery.<br />

A further day to explore Kiev. In the<br />

evening take an overnight train to<br />

Moscow.<br />

Enjoy a walking tour of Red Square,<br />

the Kremlin and the Armoury. The<br />

afternoon is at leisure to explore.<br />

See the Novodevichy convent and<br />

cemetery – burial place of many<br />

famous Russians.<br />

A day at leisure to explore Moscow<br />

under your own steam.<br />

Take an afternoon train to<br />

St Petersburg.<br />

Have an introductory tour of<br />

St Petersburg, including a visit to the<br />

Peter and Paul fortress, where the<br />

city was founded.<br />

See the treasures of the Hermitage.<br />

Visit the Summer Palace of<br />

Catherine the Great before flying<br />

back to London.<br />

Stay longer<br />

You can easily spend a day or two more in<br />

St Petersburg. Alternatively, the Baltic capitals of<br />

Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius can be visited as part of<br />

a trip to the region.<br />

Monk and church goer, Moscow<br />

www.audleytravel.com/russia ● 01993 838 230 ● Russia 79


The Trans-Siberian Railway<br />

Trans-Siberian train, Lake Baikal<br />

The Trans-Siberian is one of the world’s truly<br />

great journeys. Crossing eight time zones and<br />

stretching for 9,340 kilometres, the railway is<br />

what stitches the largest country in the world<br />

together – for some stretches in Siberia there<br />

are no roads between settlements, just the<br />

railway line.<br />

The routes<br />

It’s important to stress that the Trans-Siberian<br />

refers not to a particular train, but to a series of<br />

routes. There are three routes that can be taken,<br />

all of which can be done in either direction.<br />

The classic Trans-Siberian route stretches from<br />

Moscow to Vladivostok, on Russia’s Pacific coast.<br />

This is the purist’s choice since this is the only<br />

route that truly does cross Siberia completely.<br />

On the downside, it is scenically and culturally<br />

less varied, though taking this route opens up<br />

the possibility of continuing by ferry (or plane)<br />

to Japan.<br />

The most popular route is the Trans-Mongolian.<br />

Cutting south from Siberia, the line runs through<br />

Mongolia and the Gobi desert, before finishing<br />

up in Beijing. Following this route really gives<br />

you the experience of crossing continents and<br />

of travelling from west to east (or vice versa).<br />

It is also scenically more varied, crossing the<br />

Mongolian steppe, the Gobi desert and even<br />

the Great Wall at one point.<br />

The lesser known Trans-Manchurian route<br />

bypasses Mongolia, cutting down through<br />

Manchuria, a part of China.<br />

When to Go<br />

May to September is the best time of year to<br />

tackle the Trans-Siberian, when the weather<br />

in all countries along the way isn’t too cold.<br />

The optimum time to travel is mid-August to<br />

mid-September, when the weather in Beijing<br />

is especially clear.<br />

The Public Trains<br />

These are working trains that criss-cross Russia,<br />

Mongolia and China. On board, there are two<br />

or four berth sleeping compartments, with a<br />

toilet and washbasin at each end of the carriage.<br />

There are no shower facilities available. All trains<br />

have a restaurant car which serves breakfast,<br />

lunch and dinner – quality is not bad, though<br />

don’t expect gourmet cuisine!<br />

Private Trains<br />

There are several private trains which cover<br />

the routes. While these are perhaps a less<br />

‘authentic’ and adventurous way of doing the<br />

trip, they are generally more comfortable –<br />

there are showers on board, and some cabins<br />

are en suite. Food is all served on board and<br />

is generally of a high quality. Departures are<br />

available from Moscow through to Beijing or<br />

through to Vladivostok and vice versa.<br />

Tsar’s Gold dining car<br />

Tsar’s Gold<br />

The private Tsar’s Gold train is one of the<br />

more comfortable ways to travel along the<br />

Trans-Siberian. There are a range of cabins,<br />

some of which have en suite facilities. Cabins<br />

which are not en suite have access to a<br />

shower and washing facilities, unlike the<br />

public trains, and the food served in the<br />

convivial restaurant car is of a high standard.<br />

Days on board can be spent taking in the<br />

scenery or enjoying a variety of lectures and<br />

talks from learned speakers as you cross the<br />

great expanses of Siberia. The train operates<br />

a number of set itineraries from Moscow to<br />

Beijing (or vice versa), via Mongolia, stopping<br />

at many of the fascinating and beautiful<br />

destinations along the way. The wide choice<br />

of cabins means this is an option to suit a<br />

range of budgets.<br />

80


Where to stop<br />

It is possible to take a train non-stop from<br />

Moscow to Beijing or Vladivostok (or vice versa),<br />

but we wouldn’t recommend it – spending six<br />

continuous days on the train is liable to lead<br />

to cabin fever!<br />

Ekaterinburg<br />

1,770 kilometres from Moscow<br />

Capital of the Urals, Ekaterinburg is a town with<br />

something of a grisly history. It was here that<br />

the last Tsar Nicholas II was murdered, along<br />

with his wife, their five children, their doctor<br />

and three of their servants. The city also marks<br />

the ‘border’ between Europe and Asia.<br />

Irkutsk and Lake Baikal<br />

5,210 kilometres from Moscow<br />

Established in 1651, Irkutsk grew to become<br />

the administrative and cultural centre of Siberia,<br />

and has interesting small museums, a charming<br />

riverside setting, and many fine examples of<br />

traditional Russian wooden architecture. Around<br />

an hour from Irkutsk is Lake Baikal, the ‘Pearl of<br />

Siberia’. This is a place of breathtaking beauty<br />

and mind-boggling statistics: at 1,637 metres it is<br />

the world’s deepest lake, containing an incredible<br />

fifth of the world’s fresh water resources.<br />

Carriage attendents<br />

Ger tent, Mongolia<br />

Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia<br />

6,340 kilometres from Moscow<br />

The capital of Mongolia is not the prettiest city<br />

in the world, but it can be used as a base to see<br />

some of the surrounding countryside, and to get<br />

a small taste of the traditional nomadic way of<br />

life. There are national parks within easy reach<br />

which can be visited as a day trip, or where you<br />

can stay for a night in a traditional ger tent – a<br />

memorable experience. See page 82 for more<br />

information about Mongolia.<br />

Beijing, China<br />

7,900 kilometres from Moscow<br />

To truly experience the Chinese capital, we’d<br />

suggest a stay of at least four days to allow<br />

sufficient time to see The Forbidden City, The<br />

Great Wall as well as the other key sights. For<br />

more about Beijing, see page 12.<br />

Vladivostok<br />

9,340 kilometres from Moscow<br />

At the end of the classic route, the longest<br />

continuous railroad in the world, is Vladivostok.<br />

A bustling port home to the Russian Pacific fleet,<br />

it’s a pleasant city spread across a series of<br />

peaks, peninsulas, and islands.<br />

Train driver<br />

Classic Trans-Siberian<br />

Spanning eight time zones, this epic itinerary is ideal<br />

for those looking for a real adventure through some<br />

of the world’s most fascinating countries. Taking in<br />

the highlights of all that the Trans Mongolian branch<br />

of this journey has to offer the itinerary begins in<br />

Beijing and travels westbound through Mongolia and<br />

Siberian Russia to Moscow.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Fly to Beijing.<br />

See The Forbidden City and<br />

Tiananmen Square.<br />

Leave the city for the day to see the<br />

Great Wall.<br />

Visit the Temple of Heaven and<br />

Summer Palace.<br />

Board your train to Mongolia.<br />

Arriving into Mongolia in the afternoon,<br />

head out of the city to Khustai Nuruu<br />

National Park.<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Enjoy the park before returning to<br />

Ulaan Baatar.<br />

Morning tour of the city. In the<br />

afternoon board the train to Irkutsk.<br />

Arrive in Irkutsk and transfer to<br />

Lake Baikal.<br />

At leisure to enjoy the lake.<br />

Transfer back to Irkutsk for the<br />

afternoon train to Moscow.<br />

Days 12-13 On board the train.<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Arrive into Moscow.<br />

Walking tour of the Kremlin.<br />

Return flight back to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

It’s easy to spend an extra day or two in Moscow,<br />

and you could also continue on to St Petersburg.<br />

The city of Ekaterinburg makes for an interesting<br />

additional stop.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/russia ● 01993 838 230 ● Russia 81


Mongolia<br />

Mongolia, the ‘Land of Blue Sky’, was<br />

home to one of the largest empires<br />

the world has ever known, the Ghengis<br />

Khan-ruled Mongol empire of the 13th<br />

century. Today it is undoubtedly Asia’s last<br />

undiscovered wilderness. Awesome expanses<br />

of rolling steppe, home to Mongolia’s famous<br />

horses and herdsmen, meet high glacier clad<br />

mountains, impenetrable forests and deep,<br />

crystal lakes. To the south the great Gobi<br />

Desert stretches to the horizon; empty save<br />

for deep canyons and sweeping dunes – one<br />

of the least populated regions on earth.<br />

Across much of this vast land, the nomadic<br />

lifestyle has remained unchanged since the<br />

days of Genghis Khan. These days, modern<br />

life is starting to encroach, and a series of<br />

harsh winters has made nomadic life<br />

increasingly difficult. Nevertheless, around<br />

half of Mongolia's population still live in<br />

the traditional way, and if you venture<br />

beyond the capital you will be bound to<br />

encounter them. A visit here is truly beyond<br />

imagination, from the magnificent spectacle<br />

of the country’s annual Naadam Festival to<br />

the unspoilt, breathtaking natural beauty<br />

that awaits at every turn.<br />

82


<strong>Audley</strong> in Mongolia<br />

1 The Gandan Monastery,<br />

Ulaan Baatar<br />

One of the most important<br />

working monasteries in<br />

Mongolia, Gandan Khiid is<br />

home to an increasingly active<br />

community of Buddhist monks<br />

who live and study within the<br />

monastery grounds.<br />

2 The Gobi<br />

A vast and beautiful section<br />

of the country with stunning<br />

scenery including the<br />

magnificent ‘singing’ sand<br />

dunes at Khongoryn Els.<br />

5<br />

5 Karakorum<br />

Once the political and cultural<br />

capital of the Mongol empire,<br />

Karakorum still holds enormous<br />

significance for many Mongolians<br />

and is home to the country’s<br />

first Buddhist Monastery,<br />

Erdene Zuu.<br />

Stay in a traditional<br />

Mongolian Ger<br />

At the heart of Mongolia’s<br />

nomadic lifestyle, a stay in a<br />

traditional ger or tented<br />

dwelling is often the highlight<br />

of a trip to the country.<br />

4<br />

Takhi Horse, Khustai National Park<br />

3<br />

1<br />

2<br />

The Nadaam Festival<br />

The highlight of the year for<br />

all Mongolians, Nadaam<br />

celebrates the three ‘manly’<br />

sports of wrestling, archery<br />

and horse racing.<br />

Nomadic life<br />

Meeting a Mongolian family in<br />

their ger home is the only true<br />

way to understand this very<br />

different way of life.<br />

Nomad outside his ger<br />

The great expanses of Mongolia offer<br />

incredible opportunities to explore one of<br />

the world’s last true wildernesses. This is a<br />

land three times the size of France with a<br />

population less than that of Wales. The<br />

Mongols are naturally a nomadic people, and<br />

it was only during the Communist years of<br />

the 20th century that urbanisation began in<br />

earnest. Over a third of the population now<br />

lives in the capital, Ulaan Baatar, the political<br />

and cultural hub for the region and entry<br />

and exit point for those visiting the country.<br />

We suggest getting out of the capital and<br />

seeing some of the countryside. With such<br />

vast distances, you inevitably spend a large<br />

amount of your time travelling, but we know<br />

which routes work best, and have the most<br />

spectacular scenery. With no direct flights<br />

from the UK, connecting flights via Beijing or<br />

Seoul are the most convenient and frequent<br />

option, while a slower but more atmospheric<br />

journey brings you to Ulaan Baatar on the<br />

famous Trans-Siberian railway.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Mongolia’s capital Ulaan Baatar offers a<br />

range of modern, international hotels with<br />

standards approaching those of more<br />

developed nations. Head beyond the city,<br />

however, and the lack of developed<br />

infrastructure means camping in traditional<br />

nomadic gers (traditional felt yurt tents)<br />

is often the only option. These are cosy<br />

and offer a true Mongolian style of<br />

accommodation, giving you an insight into<br />

the Nomadic way of life. Most popular<br />

destinations offer semi-permanent<br />

encampments with modern facilities, though<br />

the further you venture off the beaten track<br />

the more basic conditions become.<br />

Find out more<br />

Gers on the steppe<br />

3 Yol Am Canyon<br />

A striking gorge deep in the<br />

desert, remarkable for the<br />

microclimate that its<br />

presence creates.<br />

4 Khustai National Park<br />

See the world’s last surviving<br />

species of wild horse in this<br />

beautiful and easily accessible<br />

national park.<br />

Herdsman with his charges<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Mongolia, please<br />

see page 86.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Mongolia<br />

specialists 01993 838 225<br />

Mongolia 83


Khongoryn Els, Gobi Desert<br />

Ulaan Baatar and around<br />

As urban capital of a nomadic nation Ulaan Baatar<br />

is something of a paradox, but with the modern<br />

world rapidly sweeping away the monolithic<br />

remnants of the Soviet era the city has become<br />

a forward-looking, if laid-back, base from which<br />

to explore this remarkable country. A number of<br />

impressive and atmospheric sights are dotted<br />

around the town, including Mongolia’s largest<br />

Buddhist Monastery, the Gandan Khiid, and the<br />

extraordinary Winter Palace of Bogd Khaan.<br />

For those with a little more time to explore the<br />

surrounding area we thoroughly recommend<br />

sampling the wonders of Mongolia’s natural<br />

heritage and traditional hospitality with an<br />

overnight visit to the beautiful Khustai National<br />

Park, just a couple of hours’ drive west of the city.<br />

Here you can see the Takhi, Mongolia’s rare and<br />

much-loved wild horses which had become<br />

extinct in the wild until they were reintroduced<br />

using stock from foreign zoos in the 1990s. This<br />

is also an ideal opportunity to spend a night in a<br />

traditional nomadic felt tent or ‘ger’, a surprisingly<br />

comfortable form of accommodation.<br />

Gobi and the South<br />

The great Gobi Desert stretches across much<br />

of southern Mongolia and its border with<br />

neighbouring China, ranging from the towering<br />

sand dunes at Khongoryn Els to more forgiving<br />

terrain home to numerous herds of gazelle and<br />

camel. The Flaming Cliffs of Bayanzag, a stunning<br />

natural formation which glow with the intensity<br />

of fire, are a must see. Also nearby is the<br />

extraordinary Yol Am Canyon, a series of gorges<br />

so sheer that thick ice remains in their depths<br />

throughout the scorching summer months. The<br />

area has regular flight connections with the capital<br />

or can be visited as part of an overland journey<br />

to Karakorum and beyond.<br />

Wrestlers, Naadam festival<br />

The Nadaam festival<br />

The annual gathering of the tribes at<br />

the great Naadam Festival dates back to<br />

the times of Genghis Khan and gives the<br />

menfolk, once the most feared warriors<br />

on the planet, the opportunity to<br />

demonstrate their considerable prowess<br />

in the ‘Three Manly Sports’ of wrestling,<br />

archery and horse racing. Even if the<br />

sports do not appeal, this is the biggest<br />

event in the Mongolian calendar and<br />

the colourful crowds and general<br />

atmosphere of excitement make it a<br />

fine focus for a visit to the country.<br />

Festivals throughout the country run<br />

annually from the 10th to the 13th July<br />

and attract visitors from across the<br />

globe – accommodation can be scarce<br />

so it is worth booking well in advance.<br />

84<br />

Gandan Khiid, Ulaan Baatar


Ger tent<br />

Mongolian children near Lake Khuvsgul<br />

Horses grazing, Lake Khuvsgul<br />

Karakorum<br />

In 1220 Genghis Khan chose to move his capital<br />

west from Khentii to Karakorum. Though the city<br />

was not completed until after his death it was, for<br />

a time, the political, economic and cultural centre<br />

of the vast Mongol Empire, housing great palaces,<br />

mosques, churches and monasteries representing<br />

many of the world’s religions. Barely a stone of<br />

the original Empire now remains, but the sense<br />

of history is palpable, and the nearby Erdene Zuu<br />

Khiid, the oldest Buddhist monastery in Mongolia,<br />

offers a reminder of the region’s glorious past.<br />

Khuvsgul and the north<br />

Mongolia’s northernmost province, hugging the<br />

border of Siberia, is perhaps its wildest and most<br />

beautiful: high mountains, great forests of pine and<br />

larch, lush grazing meadows, and crystal streams<br />

and lakes teeming with fish. In the heart of the<br />

province is the sublime alpine scenery of Lake<br />

Khuvsgul, the deepest lake in Central Asia and<br />

surrounded by woodland alive with bear, moose<br />

and ibex. This is Mongolia’s finest natural<br />

attraction, now protected as part of the Khuvsgul<br />

National Park, offering wonderful opportunities<br />

for boating, horse riding, fishing and hiking. The<br />

region is reached by plane from Ulaan Baatar via<br />

the provincial capital, Mörön, from where it’s a<br />

rough 100 kilometre drive to Khatgal, the town at<br />

the southern tip of the lake.<br />

Erdene Zuu Khiid, Karakorum<br />

Ger camps<br />

Despite the Soviet occupation of Mongolia<br />

the traditional nomadic way of life has<br />

survived remarkably intact, with about half<br />

the population still making their homes<br />

outside of the main cities in traditional<br />

encampments. As such, the ger has remained<br />

at the centre of Mongolian family life and<br />

often houses several generations of family,<br />

along with all of their possessions.<br />

Lightweight and well insulated this<br />

remarkable home can be quickly dismantled,<br />

packed away and moved to better grazing<br />

lands as and when seasons change.<br />

Generally visitors to Mongolia who travel<br />

outside of the capital stay in larger ger camps<br />

which offer the opportunity to experience<br />

Inside a ger tent<br />

Nomadic children outside their ger<br />

nomadic living. Facilities usually include shared<br />

toilets and showers. Individual gers are kitted<br />

out cosily with two, three or four wooden<br />

beds with bedding, a small table and chairs.<br />

These traditional nomadic tents are<br />

remarkably warm and weatherproof, with<br />

the felt walls providing excellent insulation<br />

against outside elements.<br />

The ger is heated by a central wood-burning<br />

stove, which will be started for you each<br />

evening and can be replenished on request.<br />

Camps generally have a personable<br />

restaurant, where long evenings can be spent<br />

enjoying the nomadic atmosphere and<br />

listening to stories from fellow travellers or<br />

the local people.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/mongolia ● 01993 838 225 ● Mongolia 85


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Mongolia specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 225<br />

Getting around<br />

With no direct flights from the UK, connecting<br />

flights via Beijing or Seoul are the most<br />

convenient and frequent option, while a slower<br />

but more atmospheric journey brings you to<br />

Ulaan Baatar on the famous Trans-Siberian<br />

railway, offering the ideal opportunity to<br />

disembark and explore the city and beyond.<br />

Flights radiate from the capital to the provinces<br />

(aimags), which cut down on some of the vast<br />

distances. Much of the infrastructure beyond the<br />

capital is very basic, so we suggest travelling by<br />

private jeep with a guide, which allows you to<br />

stop and meet any locals you might come across,<br />

whilst travelling in as much comfort as possible.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✕ ✕ ~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✕ ✕<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Mongolia’s landlocked location gives rise to an<br />

extreme continental climate, giving an average of<br />

260 sunny days a year, but with wide variations in<br />

temperature between summer and winter. Ulaan<br />

Baatar is the world’s coldest capital, and across<br />

the country winter temperatures regularly drop<br />

to -30C and below. Only the southern Gobi is<br />

truly hot in the summer months, though this is<br />

also when the little rain that does fall each year<br />

is most likely. Given the severity of the winter<br />

months travel beyond Ulaan Baatar is only really<br />

feasible during the warmer months between<br />

May and October.<br />

Time difference: GMT+8 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 13 hours, with an overnight<br />

stop in Beijing usually required.<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />

prices for your trip to Mongolia on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to<br />

discuss your plans.<br />

86<br />

Mongolia uncovered<br />

A fantastic itinerary which makes for a perfect<br />

introduction to this fantastic country. Beginning in<br />

Ulaan Bataar you explore some of the main sights<br />

before taking a spectacular flight south to the Gobi,<br />

home to dinosaur fossils, singing sand dunes and<br />

vast panoramas. After some time spent exploring<br />

here you drive back up towards the capital taking<br />

in the ancient city of Karakorum and the famed<br />

Khustaii National Park, home to the last surviving<br />

pre historic horse species, the Takhi.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Karakorum<br />

Ongi Khiid<br />

Khongoryn Els<br />

CHINA<br />

MONGOLIA<br />

Khustaii<br />

National Park<br />

Yol Am<br />

Bayanzag<br />

Fly to Beijing overnight.<br />

Transfer to your hotel with a day<br />

to explore Beijing or relax.<br />

Fly to Ulaan Bataar. Explore the<br />

Museum of Mongolian National<br />

History.<br />

Full day city tour with the afternoon<br />

at the Winter Palace.<br />

Fly south to the Gobi, see the<br />

Flaming Cliffs at Bayanzag.<br />

See Yol Am, known as a wonderful<br />

spot to view eagles and other wildlife.<br />

Drive across the desert to the<br />

‘Singing’ sand dunes at Khongoryn Els.<br />

Drive to Ongi Khiid, home to some<br />

interesting monastery ruins.<br />

Continue to the ancient Mongolian<br />

capital of Karakorum.<br />

Explore the monastery of Erdene<br />

Zuu, before continuing on to Khustaii<br />

National Park.<br />

Continue back to Ulaan Baatar via<br />

the monastery ruins at Manzushir.<br />

Fly back to Beijing with an afternoon<br />

at leisure.<br />

Fly back to the UK.<br />

RUSSIA<br />

Gobi desert<br />

Ulaan Baatar<br />

Lake Khuvsgul<br />

Land of Blue Sky<br />

A comprehensive itinerary which sees you visit<br />

many of the scenic highlights of this vast country.<br />

You drive out to the west of the country, seeing<br />

the Takhi horses in Khustaii National Park before<br />

heading up to pretty Lake Khuvsgul. From there<br />

you’ll fly down to the Gobi to witness a completely<br />

contrasting landscape, before<br />

returning to the capital Ulaan Baatar.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Days 9-10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Fly to Beijing overnight.<br />

Have the day to relax or<br />

explore Beijing.<br />

Fly to Ulaan Bataar. Explore the<br />

Museum of Mongolian National<br />

History.<br />

Full day city tour with the afternoon<br />

at the Winter Palace.<br />

Drive out from Ulaan Bataar to<br />

Khustaii National Park.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> on to Karakorum<br />

Continue on to Khorgo<br />

National Park.<br />

Your journey continues as you travel<br />

on into the Tsenkher Valley.<br />

Drive on to White Lake and spend<br />

time at the lake.<br />

Continue north to the hot spring<br />

town of Jargalant.<br />

Drive on to the ancient deer stones<br />

at Uushigiin Uver.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> up to the magnificent Lake<br />

Khuvsgul, via the provincial capital<br />

of Moron.<br />

Days 14-15 Time to relax and explore the sights<br />

in and around the lake.<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Day 18<br />

Day 19<br />

Day 20<br />

Day 21<br />

Day 22<br />

Karakorum<br />

Khongoryn Els<br />

Moron<br />

Khorgo and White Lake<br />

CHINA<br />

Khustaii<br />

National Park<br />

MONGOLIA<br />

Bayanzag<br />

Yol Am<br />

Fly back to the capital.<br />

Fly down to the Gobi National Park.<br />

In the evening visit the ‘Flaming Cliffs’<br />

at Bayanzag.<br />

Drive across the desert to the<br />

‘singing’ sand dunes at Khongoryn Els.<br />

Take in the ‘Eagle’ Canyon at Yol Am.<br />

Fly back to Ulaan Bataar where the<br />

rest of your day is spent at leisure.<br />

Fly back to Beijing.<br />

RUSSIA<br />

Gobi desert<br />

Return flight to the UK.<br />

Ulaan Baatar


Useful information<br />

St Basil’s, Cathedral, Moscow Local men, Kashgar, Silk Route Rural scene, China<br />

Contact us<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong>, New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney,<br />

Oxfordshire, OX29 9SX.<br />

nca@audleytravel.com<br />

Useful telephone numbers:<br />

China: 01993 838 220<br />

Tibet: 01993 838 215<br />

Taiwan: 01993 838 260<br />

The Silk Route: 01993 838 205<br />

Iran: 01993 838 265<br />

Ukraine: 01993 838 245<br />

Russia: 01993 838 230<br />

Mongolia: 01993 838 225<br />

Terms & Conditions and<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> Insurance<br />

Your booking is subject to the Terms and<br />

Conditions of <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong>, which we will<br />

include with your personalised itinerary and can<br />

also be found on our website. It is vital that you<br />

have adequate travel insurance and we are able<br />

to suggest a number of policies either for the<br />

duration of your trip or on an annual basis.<br />

Group <strong>Travel</strong><br />

In addition to our tailor-made tours, we offer a<br />

small programme of guided small group tours,<br />

typically no more than 16 travellers. Not only<br />

does this make for a much more sociable group<br />

but it also enables us to use smaller and more<br />

characterful accommodation and venture away<br />

from the large tour groups. We offer regular<br />

tours to several countries in this brochure which<br />

have become very popular and are an alternative<br />

to a tailor-made itinerary.<br />

We can also arrange private tours, whether this is<br />

for a group of friends, those with a special interest<br />

or a fundraising trip for charity. For larger groups<br />

we may be able to offer discounts or a free place<br />

to the organiser. See our website or call us to<br />

discuss your plans.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/groups<br />

Honeymoons<br />

A honeymoon to Russia, China or Central Asia<br />

would make for a memorable trip. For most<br />

destinations, it’s possible to combine some of<br />

the cultural highlights with time to relax. China<br />

in particular has an increasing number of good<br />

quality resorts in a variety of locations. The<br />

beaches of Southeast Asia are also easily<br />

combined with a trip to this region.<br />

Flights<br />

There are a variety of airlines that fly directly to<br />

China, Russia and Central Asia from London<br />

Heathrow, with British Airways currently offering<br />

the greatest coverage. We choose from these<br />

airlines based on current airfares and taxes,<br />

your preference for travel and your itinerary.<br />

Connecting flights from regional UK airports can<br />

also be arranged. There are also several airlines<br />

which fly indirectly to many destinations via<br />

European cities, which often offer convenient<br />

connections from regional airports.<br />

AITO Membership<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> is a member of the<br />

Association of Independent Tour<br />

Operators. The Association<br />

represents Britain’s leading independent tour<br />

operators and encourages high standards of<br />

quality and service. <strong>Audley</strong> abides by the<br />

Association’s Code of Conduct and adheres<br />

to the AITO Quality Charter which can be<br />

viewed on www.aito.com.<br />

Photography in this brochure<br />

We would like to thank the following<br />

photographers for the images used in this<br />

brochure: Peter Branch, Bill Hobdell, Steve Allen,<br />

Jamie Marshall, Simon Spicknell, Lee Dalton,<br />

Simon Irwin, Alamy, Lonely Planet Images,<br />

ASLA <strong>Travel</strong> Group, AWL Images, Tips Images,<br />

Istockphoto, Taiwan Tourist Board, and<br />

members of the <strong>Audley</strong> China, Russia and<br />

Central Asia team.<br />

All images used in this brochure were obtained<br />

in good faith by <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Group Limited<br />

and in the belief that all necessary consents and<br />

clearances were obtained for their use. However,<br />

if you believe that unauthorised use has been<br />

made of an image belonging to you please<br />

contact us on 01993 838 040.<br />

Visit our offices<br />

If you would like to discuss your<br />

travel arrangements in person we<br />

welcome personal visits, please<br />

call in advance to arrange an<br />

appointment with one or more of<br />

our country specialists. Our offices<br />

are at the New Mill, a 17th century<br />

converted wool mill on the outskirts<br />

of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford<br />

on the edge of the Cotswolds.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/visit-us<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Our website is packed with<br />

information, features and advice<br />

covering all our destinations across<br />

the globe. On the site you can browse by<br />

theme, special interest or region as well as<br />

viewing additional accommodation options<br />

and itineraries that are not featured in<br />

this brochure. You can download all our<br />

brochures online or contact us via the<br />

website where you can fill in the details of<br />

your plans so that we can start tailoring<br />

your itinerary.<br />

Useful information 87


New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 200 • Fax: 01993 838 010<br />

Email: nca@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com<br />

This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forestry Stewardship Council, using vegetable inks.<br />

Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC environmental accreditations. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!