TAH-TAH FORD - Rackspace Hosting

REDUCE - RE-USE - RE-FLAP
Living in Vermont, we experience one of the most corrosive
environments in the country. Harsh winters mean tons of road salt
and with more dirt roads than paved roads, our Land Rovers receive
a good abrasive blast of gravel to enhance the salt’s penetration. It is
documented that salt will increase the rate of corrosion by a factor of
900 times the normal rate. Unfortunately, it does not end with winter.
To combat the loss of road surface from dust, estimated at over 2.5
inches on average per year, towns liberally apply highly corrosive
liquid chloride to their dirt roads to ensure you will continue rusting
right on through the summer.
In this never-ending fight against corrosion, front mud flaps play
a key role protecting the underbody and chassis of our Land Rovers.
Because they literally take a beating and are often saddled with
built-up ice and snow, their life span is generally limited to about 3
years before they begin to crack along their flex line. Unlike most
failed parts, a broken mud flap can be assigned a new, and vital role
in the underside protection of your Land Rover.
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Torn front mud flap is replaced with a new one, and is cut square below
its metal bracket.
Planned Obsolescence? Defender inner wheel well is galvanized steel and
offers a high level of corrosion protection except for the area left open in
front of the toe box. This was not always the case. Early Land Rover 90
and 110 wheel wells were built to protect the steel toe box and doorpost
area from debris and corrosion. Only Land Rover can explain why it was
cut out on later Defenders to expose this vulnerable area.
Place the trimmed old mud flap in front of the toe box. Notice how it
nicely fits into this space with its edge fitting into the stepped edge of the
flexible eyebrow. Mark on the mud flap the location of the 2 self-tapping
screws that secure the inner wheel well near the top of the cut out area.
An easy way to do this is to dab paint, or white out on to the screw heads
and press the mud flap into position. Then with a hole punch or drill, put
2 holes into the mud flap were it is marked by the paint.
Screw the mud flap into place. Ideally, the factory self-tapping screws and
washers are replaced with stainless steel screws and large stainless
fender washers, as shown.
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