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far laboratories - Astronomy Technology Today

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My observatory<br />

control scheme<br />

is not slick or<br />

powerful, and<br />

it’s definitely<br />

not suitable for<br />

true remote<br />

operation, but it<br />

pleases me to<br />

no end!<br />

SIMPLE REMOTE<br />

OBSERVATORY<br />

OPERATION<br />

By John Crilly<br />

A quick search through the magazines<br />

or on the Internet will reveal that there are<br />

some very impressive amateur observatory<br />

installations out there. Some incorporate a<br />

very high degree of automation and system<br />

integration involving not only mounts and<br />

cameras, but also roofs, domes, weather stations,<br />

rain detectors and other ancillary<br />

equipment. Some such installations are sufficiently<br />

automated to permit true remote<br />

control, with no physical visit to the site<br />

required for normal operation.<br />

I’d like to describe some of the tools<br />

and techniques that I have found useful in<br />

my much less ambitious implementation of<br />

remote observatory control. For my purposes,<br />

I need to be able to operate the mount<br />

and cameras from within my house, about<br />

30 feet from the observatory. Because it’s so<br />

near, I don’t mind going out and manually<br />

operating the roof opening mechanism and<br />

powering up and initializing the mount and<br />

cameras to begin a session (and, of course, a<br />

second visit to shut everything down and<br />

close the roof when I’m finished). What I do<br />

want is a way to sit inside, safe and warm,<br />

and take images. To achieve this, I need to<br />

be able to slew the mount to the desired target,<br />

check and correct camera focus, and<br />

capture a series of images using selected filters.<br />

Finally, I need to be able to transfer the<br />

resulting image files into my home computer<br />

for processing. I need a setup which permits<br />

frequent gear changes without having<br />

to redo cables or software setups (I switch<br />

things around frequently).<br />

Step one was to install a telescope<br />

mount capable of being controlled by a PC.<br />

The first such mount installed here was a<br />

CGE by Celestron. Like all subsequent<br />

mounts I’ve used, its slews were controlled<br />

by a serial connection to the PC and it was<br />

autoguided either directly from an SBIG<br />

camera or from the PC via a Shoestring<br />

<strong>Astronomy</strong> GPUSB adaptor (more about<br />

this and the other Shoestring products that<br />

made this project possible will appear later).<br />

I’ve also used Meade LX200 Classic and<br />

LX200GPS mounts in this system, as well<br />

as an RCX400 and an LXD750. The<br />

LXD750 is in there now; I’m in the process<br />

of updating to a Takahashi EM-200 mount.<br />

Thanks to ASCOM, all of the various<br />

mounts integrate painlessly with Software<br />

Bisque’s TheSky software for telescope control.<br />

I’ve also used Starry Night Pro and<br />

Cartes du Ceil with no problems.<br />

If the mount is a GEM, as I currently<br />

use, I also install optical tubes. My<br />

preference these days is two (or three) APO<br />

refractors of differing focal lengths, mounted<br />

side by side. I’ve also used a 7-inch<br />

Maksutov-Cassegrain, a 6-inch Maksutov-<br />

Newtonian, Schmidt-Cassegrains from 10<br />

inches to 14 inches, and a 12-inch Meade<br />

RCX – but always with an APO refractor.<br />

The current setup is a TMB130SS and an<br />

<strong>Astronomy</strong> TECHNOLOGY TODAY 59

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