Garden Whistle Apr 2012 - Sandman.org.nz
Garden Whistle Apr 2012 - Sandman.org.nz Garden Whistle Apr 2012 - Sandman.org.nz
The Garden Whistle - April 2012 9 10 11 C 1/16” 12 1/16” holes were made in the head for the coupling pin using the plan as a guide for their location. Then enlarged slightly. The bridle hoop was formed from a piece of 0.8mm wire bent over a 3/16” drill bit. This was made longer than it needed to be. The strip on the bottom of the bridle was made from 3/32 x 1/32 strip using the bottom bracket to mark the location for the o.8mm holes. It was then slid onto the bridle hoop and soldered in place. The hook will need to be made before the bridle can be fine tuned. 13 C . 0.9mm hole For an early style buffer no gussets were fitted. 1/16 coupling holes were made in the same way. A 0.9mm hole was made through the back bottom corner of the head. The bridle was made from 0.8mm square brass which was made into a hoop in the same way over a 3/16” drill bit. The ends were folded over, soldered and shaped to form eyes with a 0.8mm hole made in both eyes. A 0.8mm piece of brass wire was then passed through a bridle eye through the buffer and out through the other eye ,soldered and trimmed. The bridle should move freely. 14 15 1/16” collar 0.5mm 0.5mm . The coupling pins were made from 1/16” hollow tube. 1/16 solid would have worked just as well. A slot was formed on the end and tidied up. Using some 1/16 aluminium hollow rod one end was crimped and filed flea and shaped until it fitted into the slot of the previous piece. When all fitted well a 0.5mm hole was made through the brass rod ,across the slot through the aluminium rod and out the other side. A 0.5mm brass wire was passed through the hole and soldered in place, trimmed and tidied up . A collar was made for the other end. After making sure that the pin was long enough to fit through the head a collar was soldered in place. A small chain was then soldered to this end which will later be attached to the head. Page 20
The Garden Whistle - April 2012 15 A B C 1.8mm 5.4mm 9.3mm 16 The hook was made from of 1/2 x 1/16 strip by reducing the drawing that I was using to 1/24th scale on the photo copier . I t was then glued to the brass with PVA . When it was dry ,the hook was cut out and shaped with files. The hook still needed to be fine tuned when fitted to the buffer to ensure that when coupling to other rolling stock there weren’t going to be problems. It wasn’t too difficult to style an early type of hook from this same cut out. The side chain hooks were made in much the same way as the hook was made ,by reducing a photo to size, making copies and gluing them to the brass, cutting them out and filing them to shape. The chain was from Spotlight. These hooks should be about 1/24 th scale 23mm 25mm Cut slot in headstock to fit 17 2mm Nut To mount the buffers, a carrier was formed from 3/8 x 3/16 rectangle stock. The buffer was trimmed to 25mm. A small piece of 5/32 square was slid over the rear of the shank and soldered in place. A 1.6mm hole was drilled 23mm from the face and threaded with a 2mm tap. The rear of the shank was rounded off to allow it to move freely. A 2mm hole was made in the centre of the carrier at the rear for a 2mm screw to pass through in to the shank. Washers were soldered to 2mm screws to form eyebolts. 2mm holes were made in the front of the carrier to allow for mounting to the headstock. A centring spring was made from phosphor bronze strip and soldered to the rear of the carrier. 2mm Screw Washer soldered to screw to form eyebolt Slot cut for washer 18 19 20 21 Page 21
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The <strong>Garden</strong> <strong>Whistle</strong> - <strong>Apr</strong>il <strong>2012</strong><br />
9 10 11<br />
C<br />
1/16”<br />
12<br />
1/16” holes were made in the head for the coupling pin using the<br />
plan as a guide for their location. Then enlarged slightly.<br />
The bridle hoop was formed from a piece of 0.8mm wire bent over<br />
a 3/16” drill bit. This was made longer than it needed to be. The<br />
strip on the bottom of the bridle was made from 3/32 x 1/32 strip<br />
using the bottom bracket to mark the location for the o.8mm holes.<br />
It was then slid onto the bridle hoop and soldered in place. The<br />
hook will need to be made before the bridle can be fine tuned.<br />
13<br />
C<br />
.<br />
0.9mm hole<br />
For an early style buffer no gussets were<br />
fitted. 1/16 coupling holes were made in the<br />
same way. A 0.9mm hole was made through<br />
the back bottom corner of the head. The bridle<br />
was made from 0.8mm square brass<br />
which was made into a hoop in the same<br />
way over a 3/16” drill bit. The ends were<br />
folded over, soldered and shaped to form<br />
eyes with a 0.8mm hole made in both eyes.<br />
A 0.8mm piece of brass wire was then<br />
passed through a bridle eye through the<br />
buffer and out through the other<br />
eye ,soldered and trimmed. The bridle<br />
should move freely.<br />
14<br />
15<br />
1/16”<br />
collar<br />
0.5mm<br />
0.5mm<br />
.<br />
The coupling pins were made from 1/16” hollow tube.<br />
1/16 solid would have worked just as well.<br />
A slot was formed on the end and tidied up. Using some 1/16 aluminium<br />
hollow rod one end was crimped and filed flea and shaped<br />
until it fitted into the slot of the previous piece. When all fitted<br />
well a 0.5mm hole was made through the brass rod ,across the slot<br />
through the aluminium rod and out the other side. A 0.5mm brass<br />
wire was passed through the hole and soldered in place, trimmed<br />
and tidied up .<br />
A collar was made for the other end. After making sure that the<br />
pin was long enough to fit through the head a collar was soldered<br />
in place. A small chain was then soldered to this end which will<br />
later be attached to the head.<br />
Page 20
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