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A FRICA<br />
&<br />
T HE I NDIAN O CEAN<br />
NAMIBIA<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
MALAWI<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
TANZANIA<br />
KENYA<br />
UGANDA<br />
RWANDA<br />
MADAGASCAR<br />
SEYCHELLES<br />
MAURITIUS<br />
TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER
Dear <strong>Travel</strong>ler<br />
Africa is one of the earth’s most exciting<br />
continents, with some of the world’s greatest<br />
wildernesses, richest cultures and most<br />
awe-inspiring wildlife. Our Africa team<br />
and <strong>Audley</strong> travellers never tire of visiting,<br />
and it seems that the more people see, the<br />
more they want to see, for Africa represents<br />
a never-ending source of adventure.<br />
Keeping up with developments is always a<br />
challenge in Africa. Not only do camps and<br />
lodges change regularly, but game fluctuates<br />
in and out of areas depending on the rains<br />
and vegetation available.<br />
There have recently been a lot of exciting<br />
changes in Africa. Of particular note is<br />
the opening up of the eastern country of<br />
Mozambique as a safari destination.<br />
Zambia’s South Luangwa is becoming more<br />
accessible in the rains – a wonderful time to<br />
see nurseries of tottering impala, birds in<br />
bright breeding plumage and increased<br />
predator action. Namibia remains a<br />
spectacular self-drive destination and new<br />
camps along the Caprivi have made possible<br />
an excellent two week self-drive safari.<br />
Finally, many of the islands we feature in<br />
Tanzania, Mozambique and Madagascar<br />
are nesting sites for turtles. What better way<br />
to finish a trip to Africa than on a sandy<br />
beach littered with turtle tracks?<br />
Our Africa team is highly experienced and<br />
we travel to the reserves frequently, keeping<br />
abreast of not only the accommodation but<br />
also the game and birdlife in a particular<br />
region. Whether your interest lies in seeing<br />
leopard, wild dog or ring-tailed lemurs, we<br />
can suggest the best places to find them.<br />
Craig Burkinshaw<br />
Managing Director<br />
2
Introducing <strong>Audley</strong><br />
After developing a real passion for travel in the early 1990s Craig Burkinshaw founded<br />
<strong>Audley</strong>, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. Craig wanted to make it possible for<br />
others to share the same experiences and, from these small beginnings, the company was born.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> offers a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s<br />
interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity<br />
and a passion for travel. Today <strong>Audley</strong> is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour<br />
operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin<br />
America, Australasia, Antarctica and the Arctic, Canada and Alaska.<br />
Tailor-made journeys<br />
The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip<br />
is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or<br />
luxurious accommodation, have great guides on<br />
hand or explore under your own steam, travel for<br />
one week or five, we can create a trip to match<br />
your tastes and budget. We can also design trips<br />
for a special occasion, where added touches can<br />
change an adventurous journey into a spectacular<br />
honeymoon, anniversary or birthday celebration.<br />
Your trip can be tailored to suit your particular<br />
interests, such as wildlife, photography or diving,<br />
and we have the specialist knowledge to match.<br />
Throughout the brochure you will find suggested<br />
itineraries and some of our favourite places to<br />
stay. These are included purely to offer inspiration<br />
and give you a flavour of what is possible, as each<br />
journey is created individually to give you the<br />
opportunity to experience a destination in<br />
exactly the way you choose.<br />
Specialist knowledge<br />
Our Africa and Indian Ocean specialists have all<br />
travelled extensively throughout the countries we<br />
feature and in many cases lived there, so you can<br />
rely on their extensive first-hand knowledge. They<br />
regularly return to see the accommodation, meet<br />
our guides – many of whom are firm friends –<br />
experience all the excursions and activities, and<br />
keep up-to-date with local developments. They<br />
pride themselves on having an honest ‘tell it how<br />
it is’ approach to planning your trip and, as well<br />
as their own extensive knowledge, are able to<br />
draw on the considerable collective experience<br />
of their colleagues. We believe this approach is<br />
unique to <strong>Audley</strong> and the only way we can<br />
genuinely offer you a tailor-made service.<br />
Financial security<br />
All travel arrangements in this brochure that<br />
include a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil<br />
Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817.<br />
Please see our booking conditions for more<br />
information. If your arrangements do not include<br />
any flights they are protected by a separate<br />
financial scheme, for further details please visit<br />
www.audleytravel.com/protect<br />
Planning your trip<br />
Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if<br />
you just want some general guidance, call one<br />
of our Africa and Indian Ocean specialists on<br />
01993 838 500. They can offer advice and discuss<br />
your plans with you, before creating a detailed<br />
itinerary, which will be forwarded to you together<br />
with maps, accommodation information, colour<br />
photographs and a price. Your specialist can then<br />
continue to refine the plans until you are<br />
completely satisfied. They will be on hand from<br />
the start of the planning process to your return<br />
and are always available to answer questions<br />
and offer sound advice.<br />
Contents<br />
Introduction 2-9<br />
Namibia 10-25<br />
South Africa 26-27<br />
Botswana 28-41<br />
Zambia 42-55<br />
Malawi 56-61<br />
Mozambique 62-71<br />
Tanzania 72-91<br />
Zanzibar 84-87<br />
Kenya 92-105<br />
Kenya’s beaches 102-104<br />
Uganda 106-107<br />
Gorilla tracking 108-109<br />
Rwanda 110-111<br />
Madagascar 112-127<br />
Madagascar’s beaches 122-126<br />
Seychelles 128-137<br />
Mauritius 138-142<br />
Useful information 143<br />
Introduction 3
Choosing where to go<br />
Choosing a trip in Africa can be confusing given the array of countries, lodges and camps<br />
on offer. Below you will find an overview of each country giving the highlights and<br />
types of safari and other experiences they offer the traveller. For further details, please browse<br />
the individual country sections of this brochure or call our Africa specialists.<br />
4<br />
Boat trip from Chiawa Camp, Zambia<br />
Viewing wild dog in Botswana<br />
Children in Malawi<br />
Namibia<br />
Namibia offers desert scenery as well as big game.<br />
The network of gravel roads is easy to navigate<br />
and most people drive themselves around. It is a<br />
good country for first-time visitors to Africa thanks<br />
to the variety of scenery, wildlife and activities to<br />
enjoy. Namibia is one of the least expensive<br />
African countries to visit and trips can be tailored<br />
to suit all budgets. See pages 10-25.<br />
South Africa<br />
South Africa is well-suited to first-time visitors to<br />
Africa, as well as families. The majority of visitors<br />
combine Cape Town with time in the Wine<br />
Regions, Garden Route and Kruger National Park.<br />
We have an extensive South Africa programme,<br />
covered in a separate brochure. For a copy<br />
please call our South Africa specialists on<br />
01993 838 550. See pages 26-27<br />
Botswana<br />
Botswana is often viewed as the ultimate safari<br />
destination. Wildlife here is some of the best on<br />
the continent and camps are small and exclusive.<br />
Many camps are set in private reserves and you<br />
will see few other vehicles on game drives.<br />
Botswana is famous for its Okavango Delta, a<br />
beautiful wetland area with colourful birds as well<br />
as big game. Botswana is one of the most<br />
expensive countries to visit in high season, but you<br />
certainly get what you pay for. See pages 28-41.<br />
Zambia<br />
Zambia is one of our favourite countries as the<br />
parks are wild and game concentrations good.<br />
The camps are small, many with only three or<br />
four rooms, and ingeniously constructed. It is the<br />
best place in Africa for walking safaris and night<br />
drives are rewarding for leopard sightings. It will<br />
not suit nervous travellers but is ideal for those<br />
looking for a wild safari. Zambia combines well<br />
with Lake Malawi, providing a safari and ‘beach’<br />
option. See pages 42-55.<br />
Malawi<br />
Malawi is a small country dominated by the<br />
glittering Lake Malawi, which can either be<br />
enjoyed as a ‘beach’ add-on to Zambia or as a<br />
destination in its own right. Visitors are normally<br />
driven around the country exploring the lake<br />
and Liwonde National Park and perhaps enjoying<br />
hiking in the mountains in Southern Malawi.<br />
See pages 56-61.<br />
Mozambique<br />
Mozambique has an idyllic coastline. There are<br />
two archipelagos, Bazaruto in the south and<br />
Quirimba in the north, both of which have a small<br />
number of boutique hotels. These can be added<br />
on to safaris in Namibia, Botswana and Zambia<br />
or used for a beach only stay. The two national<br />
parks of Niassa and Gorongosa would not be<br />
suited to people wanting to tick off big game but<br />
are ideal for experienced safari hands looking for<br />
a wilderness experience. See pages 62-71.<br />
Tanzania<br />
Tanzania has some of Africa’s most famous parks<br />
such as the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.<br />
It also has lesser-known reserves including the<br />
Selous and Ruaha which offer equally good game<br />
viewing. Due to its terrific wildlife densities and<br />
Indian Ocean islands such as Zanzibar and Mafia<br />
it makes an ideal safari and beach combination.<br />
We prefer to stay away from the busier areas<br />
and make use of quieter parks and islands.<br />
See pages 72-91.<br />
Ring tailed lemur, Madagascar
Kenya<br />
People often imagine minibuses and busy beaches<br />
when they think of Kenya. This is true in the<br />
eastern Mara and Mombasa, but outside these<br />
spots, the country offers large wilderness areas.<br />
The western side of the Mara is much quieter<br />
with excellent game densities and is ideal for<br />
first-time visitors to Africa. In the north of the<br />
country you can walk with Samburu tribesmen<br />
on the Laikipia Plateau. Time on safari is easily<br />
combined with the Kenyan coast or the island<br />
of Zanzibar. See pages 92-105.<br />
Uganda & Rwanda<br />
Uganda and Rwanda are famous for their<br />
mountain gorillas which you can track in the<br />
Virunga Mountains. Both countries are relatively<br />
small and a week in Rwanda and ten days in<br />
Uganda is normally sufficient to see the highlights.<br />
See pages 106-111.<br />
Madagascar<br />
Madagascar is unique and offers an experience<br />
that is quite unlike other African countries. The<br />
main attraction is the lemurs which are viewed<br />
on foot. Walking in Madagascar’s virgin rainforest,<br />
you see chameleons, frogs and all sorts of weird<br />
and wonderful insects, and the forest is easily<br />
combined with the beach. Hotels are not very<br />
luxurious on Madagascar so it will not suit<br />
everyone, but for those who love an adventure,<br />
we cannot recommend it highly enough.<br />
See pages 112-127.<br />
Seychelles<br />
The Seychelles are well-known as an idyllic set<br />
of islands and their picture-perfect beaches with<br />
white sand and palm trees do not disappoint.<br />
You can tailor an island-hopping holiday or<br />
visit as an add-on to a safari. There are a range<br />
of properties from simple guesthouses to<br />
luxury hotels so trips can be tailored to suit<br />
most budgets. See pages 128-137.<br />
Sossusvlei at sunrise<br />
Mauritius<br />
Mauritius is a large island ringed by sandy beaches.<br />
There are a number of hotels and guest houses<br />
on the island and it can be hard to know which<br />
to choose. We have selected a few properties on<br />
quiet stretches of beach as well as some in the<br />
mountains to create an original itinerary. Whilst<br />
service levels are high, prices are competitive and<br />
offer value for money. Mauritius is easy to<br />
combine with a safari in either Southern or<br />
Eastern Africa. See pages 138-142.<br />
01993 838 500 ● Introduction 5
Wildlife<br />
The focus of most trips to Africa is the wildlife. Whilst game is found across the<br />
continent, there are some specific areas that are particularly good for certain species.<br />
We have included a rough guide here to get you started on where to find some of Africa’s<br />
bigger game. Do call our specialists who can advise you in much greater depth.<br />
Red lechwe, Okavango Delta<br />
Tree climbing lion in Uganda<br />
Klipspringer, Namibia<br />
Lion<br />
Lion are usually not hard to find on any safari as<br />
they tend to enjoy lying around for large parts of<br />
the day. Of particular note are Kenya’s Masai<br />
Mara, where the stars of the Big Cat Diary series<br />
can be seen, and Botswana’s Duba Plains where<br />
you can watch lion stalking buffalo on an almost<br />
daily basis. We also always find the Ruaha in<br />
Tanzania rewarding for large prides.<br />
Leopard<br />
The best place for leopard is Zambia. Night drives<br />
have been operating in both the South Luangwa<br />
and Lower Zambezi National Parks for many<br />
years and the guides know a number of leopards<br />
and the places they tend to frequent. Other good<br />
areas for leopard include Tanzania’s Selous Game<br />
Reserve and the Masai Mara in Kenya.<br />
Cheetah<br />
With open plains and an arid environment,<br />
Namibia holds 40% of Africa’s cheetah<br />
population. They can be found in Etosha, or for<br />
a close-up experience you can visit the Africat<br />
Foundation based in Namibia’s Northern<br />
Highlands. Tanzania’s Serengeti Game Reserve is<br />
also well suited to cheetah.<br />
Elephant<br />
Elephant can be found in large numbers in most<br />
of the reserves we feature. Of special interest are<br />
the desert-adapted elephant which roam freely in<br />
Namibia’s Damaraland region – seeing them<br />
against a backdrop of dunes and gravel plains is<br />
spectacular. Chobe in Botswana is known for its<br />
huge population and hundreds come to the<br />
Chobe River to drink. Finally, the Ngorongoro<br />
Crater in Tanzania has some large bulls with<br />
impressive tusks.<br />
Buffalo<br />
Buffalo are at their most spectacular in large herds<br />
and Katavi National Park in Western Tanzania<br />
and Duba Plains in Botswana have probably the<br />
biggest concentrations. From June to October,<br />
Katavi’s herds number around 3,000, making for<br />
an impressive sight of snorting, dust and fluttering<br />
oxpeckers. Duba Plains has a herd of around<br />
1,000, hounded every day by lions, giving rise to<br />
spectacular photographic opportunities.<br />
Rhino<br />
Both black and white rhino have been heavily<br />
poached in Africa, but thanks to increased<br />
protection many are thriving. Black rhino can<br />
be found roaming freely in northwest Namibia<br />
and guests can track them on foot with Save<br />
The Rhino trackers. Namibia’s Etosha National<br />
Park also has good numbers of both black and<br />
white rhino.<br />
Mountain gorilla<br />
Mountain gorillas are found in the Virunga<br />
Mountains which straddle Rwanda and Uganda.<br />
On the Rwandan side the mountains are<br />
protected by the Volcanoes National Park and on<br />
the Ugandan side by the Mgahinga National Park.<br />
We feel that gorilla tracking is best from the<br />
Rwandan side as there are a greater number of<br />
gorilla groups and walks are shorter.<br />
6<br />
Mountain gorilla
Young elephant<br />
Chimpanzee<br />
Chimpanzees can be found in the Mahale<br />
Mountains in Western Tanzania and Kibale<br />
Forest in Uganda. In both places they are<br />
tracked on foot.<br />
Lemurs<br />
Lemurs are endemic to Madagascar and once<br />
you are in the country’s national parks, they are<br />
not hard to find. There are a number of both<br />
diurnal and nocturnal species which can be seen<br />
on day and night walks. Lemurs can often be<br />
observed from close quarters as they are<br />
naturally curious animals.<br />
Whales<br />
Humpback whales can be seen migrating up<br />
Africa’s east coast from June to early September.<br />
They are particularly easily seen on boat trips<br />
from Ile Ste Marie in Madagascar and the<br />
Quirimba Archipelago in Mozambique.<br />
Mongoose<br />
Responsible travel<br />
We’re passionate about travel but also<br />
deeply aware of the responsibility we have<br />
to the people and places we visit. We believe<br />
that a visit from an <strong>Audley</strong> traveller should<br />
have a positive impact on the destination<br />
and, wherever possible, bring real benefits.<br />
We always endeavour to use locally owned<br />
hotels, work with local guides and operators,<br />
and promote community and wildlife projects.<br />
Our <strong>Travel</strong>ler’s Code offers tips and advice<br />
you can use to ensure your trip does not<br />
threaten the sustainability of the places you<br />
visit. We carbon offset all our staff flights and<br />
you can choose to do the same, please speak<br />
to your specialist about this or follow the link<br />
on our website www.audleytravel.com/offset.<br />
Our commitment to responsible travel has<br />
been audited by AITO (Association of<br />
Independent Tour Operators) and we have<br />
Spotted hyena<br />
been awarded five stars, the maximum<br />
achievable. We also support a variety of<br />
social and environmental charities and<br />
projects around the world. Our Africa safari<br />
team has funded a water pump for Aitong<br />
Village in Kenya, supports a tree-planting<br />
project in Zambia’s Luangwa Valley and<br />
sponsors two elephants in the Daphne<br />
Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage. In addition<br />
to this we funded the building of a bio-gas<br />
until, which turns manure into cooking fuel<br />
for a village on the outskirts of the Masai<br />
Mara, eliminating the need for villagers to<br />
venture into the bush to collect firewood,<br />
where predators are present, and also<br />
helping to prevent deforestation. Should<br />
you wish to visit one of these projects<br />
during your trip, please speak to one of<br />
our Africa specialists.<br />
Cheetah in Botswana<br />
01993 838 500 ● Wildlife 7
Choosing a Safari<br />
A special family meal at Kapani Lodge<br />
The majority of visitors to Africa will want to experience a typical wildlife safari on<br />
which you enjoy seeing lots of big game as well as Africa’s smaller mammals and birds.<br />
Game viewing can be enjoyed from open vehicles, in boats, canoes, on foot or even from hot<br />
air balloons. Exploring the bush in a variety of ways allows you to focus on different elements<br />
– walking safaris are good for examining tracks and listening to bird calls; game drives for<br />
approaching elephant, lion and buffalo from close quarters; and boats are best for hippo,<br />
crocodile and waterbirds. Whatever your interest, be it a particular animal or bird or a way<br />
of exploring, we can suggest the right parks and activities. As well as typical wildlife safaris,<br />
here is a flavour of some of the more specialist safaris we can arrange.<br />
The Luangwa House, Zambia<br />
Learning about meerkats in Botswana<br />
Safari & beach combinations<br />
Combining a safari with some relaxation on the<br />
beach is very popular. This could not be easier in<br />
Africa, as many game reserves are just a short<br />
flight from the coast. Tanzania’s Selous Game<br />
Reserve is a short light aircraft flight from<br />
Zanzibar, making it possible to enjoy a morning<br />
game drive followed by lunch on the island. Kenya<br />
has an idyllic coastline just a few hours’ journey<br />
from the Mara, or if you want to go further afield<br />
it is easy to combine Kenya with the Seychelles.<br />
In Southern Africa, Zambia’s South Luangwa Park<br />
is a morning’s journey from Lake Malawi so this<br />
makes an ideal combination. Namibia and<br />
Botswana combine well with Mauritius and<br />
Mozambique, however due to flight times a night<br />
en route in Johannesburg is required. Finally, many<br />
of Madagascar’s reserves stretch right down to<br />
the beach, so it is possible to enjoy a hike in the<br />
forest followed by a swim in the sea. It doesn’t<br />
get much better than kicking off your hiking<br />
boots on the sand and running into the Indian<br />
Ocean to cool off.<br />
Family safaris<br />
If you think your children would like to learn to<br />
track game, pick mangos from a wild mango tree<br />
or bake crocodile cakes in the kitchen with a<br />
friendly chef, then a family safari might be just the<br />
answer. In recent years many camps have built<br />
special family tents and houses in order to<br />
accommodate every member of the family<br />
comfortably. Activities can be enjoyed in private<br />
vehicles, or parents and children can head off in<br />
separate directions under the watchful eyes of<br />
professional guides. Dining can be early or late,<br />
together or apart, in the house or on a sandbank<br />
in the middle of the river. There are swimming<br />
pools to enjoy, wildlife certificates to be achieved<br />
and relaxation for parents. Speak to our Africa<br />
specialists who have visited all the family houses<br />
and can discuss the options with you.<br />
Honeymoons<br />
Africa has a number of fabulous places to explore<br />
on honeymoon. You can sleep out under the<br />
African night sky on a star-bed in Northern<br />
Kenya, enjoy a bush-breakfast on a sandbank in<br />
the heart of the Okavango Delta or simply<br />
snooze on the deep-cushioned sofas of your<br />
private villa in Mozambique. Our country<br />
specialists have travelled all over Africa to find<br />
the best places for a honeymoon and will give<br />
you lots of ideas and suggestions. We offer a<br />
specialised service for those who would like to<br />
have their honeymoon as a wedding list, and<br />
wedding guests can contribute via our website<br />
or by telephone.<br />
8<br />
Snorkelling at Nkwichi Lodge, Mozambique
Walking in the South Luangwa National Park<br />
Walking safaris<br />
A wonderful way to explore Africa’s wildlife is on<br />
foot. Walking safaris can vary from gentle morning<br />
rambles to two or three day hikes. They were<br />
pioneered in Zambia in the 1960s and this is still<br />
one of the best countries for walking. Small<br />
groups are escorted by guides and scouts and<br />
explore areas with no roads. On a typical<br />
morning walk you might track elephant, listen to<br />
birds, or have a picnic above a lagoon full of<br />
hippo. Madagascar is another excellent place for<br />
keen walkers as all of the activities are done on<br />
foot here. Walks explore virgin rainforest, alive<br />
with lemurs, chameleons, frogs and geckos.<br />
Finally, for walks in dramatic desert scenery,<br />
Namibia is the place to go. You can climb sand<br />
dunes at Sossusvlei, scramble up rocky hillsides in<br />
the Naukluft Mountains and track black rhino<br />
across desert plains in Damaraland.<br />
Photographing elephant in the Luangwa Valley<br />
Lovebird<br />
Photographic safaris<br />
With its dramatic landscapes, exciting wildlife<br />
and beautiful sunrises and sunsets, Africa is a<br />
photographer’s dream. Whilst the whole<br />
continent offers superb opportunities, Zambia is<br />
one of the best places for the keen photographer.<br />
In the South Luangwa there are several camps<br />
that have specialist guides and hides above busy<br />
waterholes. There are also a number of guided<br />
photographic safaris each year, lead by<br />
professional photographers.<br />
Birdwatching<br />
There are thousands of bird species in Africa of<br />
every shape and size, from secretary birds to<br />
hammerkops and saddle billed storks to pygmy<br />
kingfishers. In Southern Africa, keen ornithologists<br />
will enjoy the Green Season (November to<br />
March) when birds are in bright breeding plumage<br />
and courtship displays are common. Also worthy<br />
of note is June in Zambia’s South Luangwa when<br />
large parties of spoonbills, yellow-billed storks,<br />
saddle billed storks and fish eagles gather into<br />
‘fishing parties’ to scoop fish out of drying lagoons.<br />
October sees the arrival of beautiful carmine<br />
bee-eaters which nest in Botswana’s Kwando and<br />
Zambia’s Luangwa riverbanks. East Africa is no less<br />
spectacular with the Selous river and lake system<br />
home to a myriad of brightly coloured waterbirds<br />
all year round. Of particular note is Lake Nakuru<br />
in Kenya which is home to more than a million<br />
flamingos at certain times of year. Finally, in the<br />
southeast trade wind (May to October) around<br />
800,000 pairs of sooty terns arrive to nest on<br />
Bird Island in the Seychelles. This is just a<br />
fraction of what Africa has to offer the keen<br />
ornithologist – please speak to our specialists<br />
for further details of specialist birding safaris.<br />
Yellow-billed stork fishing<br />
01993 838 500 ● Safaris 9
Namibia<br />
Namibia is a country of vast blue skies<br />
and endless horizons. It contains one of<br />
the world’s oldest deserts, its highest dunes<br />
and its second largest canyon. In the north of<br />
the country, Etosha’s silvery salt pan and<br />
surrounding plains teem with game.<br />
Damaraland’s desert-adapted elephant and<br />
black rhino roam freely and can be tracked<br />
on foot or in open vehicles. Flying along the<br />
Skeleton Coast, you will find hundredthousand<br />
strong seal colonies, skeletal<br />
shipwrecks and flocks of pelicans and<br />
flamingos. Some of the most spectacular<br />
scenery is found in the south. Climbing a<br />
dune at Sossuslvei at sunrise, it is easy to see<br />
why Namibia is a photographer’s dream.<br />
The dunes are enchanting, totally unspoilt,<br />
and best of all you have them to yourself.<br />
Whilst Namibia’s scenery is some of the most<br />
dramatic in Africa getting around the<br />
country could not be easier as there is an<br />
excellent network of gravel roads. Set off at<br />
dawn and spot gemsbok and kudu from your<br />
car, stop for a snack under an acacia tree<br />
and arrive at your destination by lunchtime.<br />
With virtually no traffic and spectacular<br />
scenery this is a wonderful way to explore.<br />
10
<strong>Audley</strong> in Namibia<br />
7 8<br />
5<br />
6<br />
4<br />
1<br />
9<br />
2<br />
3<br />
10<br />
Namibia is an easy country to explore with<br />
well maintained roads, a variety of<br />
comfortable properties and good food. A<br />
good way to get around is on a self-drive trip<br />
with a reliable car, clear set of directions and<br />
a map. Traffic is light and you can always pull<br />
over to enjoy the view. We have driven<br />
around Namibia many times and know the<br />
roads and lodges well from first-hand<br />
experience. As distances are large, it is crucial<br />
to plan a trip carefully so that you spend only<br />
a part of your time driving and the majority<br />
of it enjoying what the country has to offer. If<br />
you don’t want to drive, you can fly by light<br />
aircraft or be driven from lodge to lodge.<br />
Both are good options and suit different<br />
travellers and budgets. Namibia works well as<br />
a stand-alone destination, however it can be<br />
combined easily with Cape Town or the<br />
Okavango Delta in Botswana. If you would<br />
like to end your trip on a tropical beach, we<br />
recommend Mozambique or Mauritius.<br />
Accommodation<br />
1 Sossusvlei<br />
The world’s highest sand<br />
dunes and a place of<br />
spectacular beauty.<br />
2 NamibRand<br />
Nature Reserve<br />
One of Africa’s largest private<br />
reserves encompassing plains,<br />
vegetated dunes and the<br />
Numib Mountains.<br />
3 Fish River Canyon<br />
The world’s second largest<br />
canyon and a good place<br />
for hiking.<br />
4 Lüderitz<br />
A colonial town in the south,<br />
close to the deserted<br />
diamond mining settlements of<br />
Kolmanskop and Elizabeth Bay.<br />
Picnic at the Skeleton Coast<br />
Lion in Etosha<br />
5 Swakopmund<br />
7 The Skeleton Coast<br />
A quaint German colonial<br />
town where the desert meets<br />
the Atlantic.<br />
With desolate beaches,<br />
mountains and canyons this area<br />
is home to seals, jackals, giraffe<br />
6 Pelican Point<br />
and desert-adapted elephant.<br />
A sandy peninsula with a colony<br />
of around 300 Cape fur seals,<br />
accessible by kayak.<br />
8 Damaraland<br />
The place to track desertadapted<br />
elephant and rhino<br />
and home to some of Africa’s<br />
finest rock art.<br />
9 Etosha National Park<br />
Namibia’s key wildlife area,<br />
centred around the shimmering<br />
Etosha salt pan.<br />
10 Caprivi Strip<br />
Fringing the Okavango Delta,<br />
this region has rivers,<br />
waterways and swamps as<br />
well as prolific elephant,<br />
buffalo, hippo and crocodile.<br />
Namibia has probably the widest choice of<br />
accommodation in Southern Africa. In the<br />
towns there are hotels, boutique properties<br />
and guesthouses. Out of town you will<br />
find remote tented camps, lodges and<br />
farmhouses. One of our favourite properties,<br />
Wolwedans Dune Lodge, is built on top of<br />
a sand dune. On any itinerary we would<br />
recommend that you stay in a mixture of<br />
properties to make your trip varied and<br />
interesting. Staying at an owner-run guestfarm<br />
gives a fascinating insight into farming<br />
in Namibia whilst tented camps allow you<br />
to explore remote areas. If you are a keen<br />
walker we can recommend trails where you<br />
stay in dome tents or camp beds under the<br />
stars. Simply let us know the sort of<br />
accommodation you like and we will make<br />
suggestions to suit you.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Namibia, please<br />
see pages 24-25.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Namibia<br />
specialists 01993 838 525<br />
Namibia 11
Dead Vlei<br />
Sossusvlei & Sesriem<br />
In southern Namibia at Sesriem, the Tsauchab<br />
River has carved a wide path into the dunes<br />
towards the coast. The river never reaches the<br />
sea as its path is blocked by mountains of sand.<br />
Instead it spreads into pans, surrounded by<br />
curving dunes. This area is known as Sossusvlei;<br />
the towering dunes are apricot at sunrise, crimson<br />
at sunset and all colours of the spectrum in<br />
between. Near Sossusvlei are other ‘vleis’ (valleys<br />
or pans) – Dead Vlei with a silver floor and<br />
skeletal trees and Hidden Vlei with dusty acacias.<br />
It’s superb for photography and a place of<br />
spectacular beauty. Many think deserts are lifeless,<br />
but walk amongst the dunes and you will soon<br />
see the tracks of tok tokkie beetles criss-crossing<br />
the sand, shovel-snouted lizards darting into nara<br />
bushes and perhaps even the spoor of a wildcat.<br />
We recommend arriving at Sossusvlei early in<br />
the morning so that you can climb one of the<br />
hundreds of dunes and watch as the colour of<br />
the sunrise is blazed onto the magical landscape.<br />
Desert Homestead<br />
12<br />
Sossus Dune Lodge<br />
SOSSUS DUNE LODGE,<br />
SOSSUSVLEI<br />
Sossus Dune Lodge is situated within the<br />
Namib Naukluft Park close to Sossusvlei. The<br />
lodge comprises 25 thatched chalets. Each is<br />
canvas sided, with wood floors and large glass<br />
windows to make the most of the views of the<br />
dunes. As the lodge is within the park, guests can<br />
reach Sossusvlei before sunrise and stay after<br />
sunset giving the opportunity to experience the<br />
dunes with few other people.<br />
DESERT HOMESTEAD, SOSSUSVLEI<br />
The Desert Homestead is a pretty lodge on a<br />
grassy plain in the shadow of the Tsaris and<br />
Naukluft Mountains. There are 20 stone and<br />
thatch cottages, a cosy living area with comfortable<br />
leather sofas, soft African fabrics and a cool, shady<br />
dining veranda where farmhouse cooking is served.<br />
As well as trips to Sossusvlei it is possible to go<br />
horse riding or camping for a night.<br />
LITTLE KULALA, KULALA<br />
WILDERNESS RESERVE<br />
Little Kulala is located in the dry Auab river bed<br />
on the Kulala Wilderness Reserve, a 35-minute<br />
4x4 trip from Sossusvlei. Sandy paths lead<br />
through skeletal trees to eight luxurious and<br />
spacious chalets, each decorated in a desert style<br />
with clay pots full of dune grass and outdoor<br />
showers in twisted trees. There is a plunge pool<br />
for the heat of the day and a star-gazing platform<br />
on the roof. Views of the dunes shimmering in<br />
the distance can be enjoyed from everywhere.<br />
Little Kulala<br />
Barking gecko
Wolwedans Dune Camp Wolwedans Dune Lodge Sossussvlei Mountain Lodge<br />
Sunrise in the NamibRand Nature Reserve<br />
The NamibRand<br />
Nature Reserve<br />
The NamibRand Nature Reserve lies to the south<br />
of Sesriem and borders the Namib Naukluft Park.<br />
Covering over 2,000 square kilometres, it is one<br />
of Africa’s largest private reserves and is certainly<br />
one of its most beautiful. A place of contrast, it<br />
encompasses vegetated dunes, yellow plains and<br />
the Numib Mountains where Hartmann’s<br />
mountain zebra can be found. The NamibRand<br />
has some of Namibia’s best guides and is<br />
therefore a good place in which to learn about<br />
the flora, fauna and history of the desert. We<br />
recommend the full-day drives, on which you<br />
explore many parts of the reserve and have a<br />
large picnic lunch. On your return to camp at<br />
night you’ll find the lanterns lit, the fire roaring<br />
and a delicious dinner prepared.<br />
WOLWEDANS DUNE LODGE,<br />
NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE<br />
Wolwedans Dune Lodge has six chalets which<br />
are built on top of a vegetated sand dune. All of<br />
them are open on one side allowing you to<br />
watch the sunrise from your bed. The lapa has<br />
leather sofas and chairs, a library and a cellar<br />
built deep into the sand. There is also a small<br />
pool set back in the dunes. As with all the<br />
Wolwedans properties, the food is excellent<br />
and the camp guides some of the most<br />
knowledgeable in Namibia.<br />
SOSSUSVLEI MOUNTAIN LODGE,<br />
NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE<br />
This lodge has ten suites, built into natural rock<br />
at the foot of a mountain, each one looking onto<br />
an expansive plain leading to a dune sea. Raised<br />
bedrooms with skylights overhead enable guests<br />
to gaze at the stars from their bed, and steps lead<br />
down from the bedroom to a lounge. Activities<br />
from the lodge include drives and walks in the<br />
reserve as well as excursions to Sossusvlei. At<br />
the end of the day the night sky can be viewed<br />
through the lodge’s high-powered telescope.<br />
WOLWEDANS DUNE CAMP,<br />
NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE<br />
This beautiful tented camp is built on a dune and<br />
has spectacular views of the plains and mountains.<br />
The six tents are simple but stylish with rush mats,<br />
comfortable beds, tables and private bathrooms.<br />
The main lapa (dining area and lounge) is open<br />
on one side with far reaching views. The food<br />
is excellent and the camp staff warm and<br />
welcoming. Wolwedans has some of Namibia’s<br />
best guides and they will lead you on half and<br />
full day excursions to explore the reserve.<br />
Hartebeest in the NamibRand Nature Reserve<br />
www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 13
Gemsbok in the Naukluft Mountains<br />
The Naukluft Mountains<br />
The Naukluft Mountains are about an hour’s drive<br />
to the northeast of Sossusvlei and make an ideal<br />
stop on the way to or from the dunes. This is<br />
superb walking country with rocky outcrops, deep<br />
river valleys with wild olive trees, sycamore figs<br />
and freshwater springs where you can swim when<br />
the weather is hot. There are lots of wild animals<br />
including baboon, steenbok, kudu, Hartmann’s<br />
mountain zebra and klipspringer. Leopard are<br />
present but rarely seen. Over 200 bird species<br />
have been recorded and the Naukluft is the<br />
southernmost limit of many species of the<br />
northern Namib, including Ruppell’s parrot and<br />
the pretty rosy-faced lovebirds. The air is crystal<br />
clear, you won’t meet another person all day,<br />
and sunsets over the mountains are spectacular.<br />
Zebra River Lodge<br />
Walking in the Naukluft<br />
ZEBRA RIVER LODGE,<br />
NAUKLUFT MOUNTAINS<br />
This small stone lodge – a converted farm – is<br />
set high up in the mountains. There are just nine<br />
rooms, some of which lead off a wide veranda<br />
covered in flowers. Inside, the rooms are large<br />
and have cool stone floors, large beds with<br />
African print covers and en suite bathrooms. The<br />
main building houses a cosy dining room where<br />
dinner is served. Activities include nature drives,<br />
sundowner excursions and visits to the local<br />
natural springs. There are also several walking<br />
trails which can be explored at your own pace.<br />
Corona Guestfarm<br />
14<br />
CORONA GUESTFARM,<br />
NAUKLUFT MOUNTAINS<br />
Corona Guestfarm is surrounded by mountains<br />
in a remote wilderness area. Driving to the farm,<br />
you pass a number of dry river beds where kudu<br />
and springbok are often found. Accommodation<br />
consists of ten en suite rooms and four safari<br />
style tents, all individually decorated. Apart from<br />
relaxing by the swimming pool or under the<br />
jacaranda trees, there are a number of optional<br />
activities including game drives, horse riding and<br />
self guided walks, one of which visits some<br />
interesting rock art.<br />
The Naukluft Mountains
Kolmaskop, ghost town in the desert<br />
Fish River Lodge Houses in Lüderitz Klein Aus Vista<br />
Fish River Canyon<br />
In the far south of the country, the Fish River<br />
Canyon, second only to the Grand Canyon in<br />
size, is spectacular and deserted. At its base, the<br />
Fish River twists and turns, its clear water<br />
tumbling over rocks. We recommend taking an<br />
early morning ramble along the canyon where the<br />
bark of baboons echoes around the rocks and<br />
klipspringers dart up gullies. The view from the<br />
top is breathtaking and there are no shops or<br />
kiosks here, just a bench in the shade. On a busy<br />
day you may meet someone else, but the chance<br />
of finding a rock to sit on and of having the view<br />
to yourself is high.<br />
Lüderitz<br />
On the coast, the town of Lüderitz is fascinating,<br />
a real outpost with turn of the century<br />
architecture and the ghost towns of the diamond<br />
boom nearby, preserved by the sands of the<br />
desert. There’s also the penguin colony at Halifax<br />
Island to visit and we recommend walking with<br />
the flamingos on the beaches south of Lüderitz.<br />
There, you will find shells and ghost crabs and<br />
are unlikely to see another soul.<br />
KLEIN AUS VISTA, AUS<br />
An hour outside Lüderitz, the little Klein Aus Vista<br />
guesthouse has a wonderful location. Small rock<br />
chalets are tucked away amongst granite boulders<br />
with views of the desert. As well as trips to<br />
Lüderitz, guests can explore the gentle hiking<br />
trails, climb the extinct volcanic mountain or<br />
search for the wild Namib feral horses, present in<br />
this area for seven generations. With welcoming<br />
hosts and plentiful food, this is a tranquil and<br />
comfortable place to stay.<br />
FISH RIVER LODGE, FISH<br />
RIVER CANYON<br />
Fish River Lodge has a stunning situation on the<br />
lip of the Canyon with far reaching views. The<br />
20 contemporary stone chalets are stylishly<br />
decorated inside; stepping outside, you are<br />
immediately in the desert, an area of gravel plains<br />
dotted with quivertrees. This lodge is the only<br />
one in the area that offers guided hikes in the<br />
Canyon. After a morning walk, return to the pool<br />
to cool off before enjoying a big lunch on the<br />
shady veranda.<br />
Fish River Canyon<br />
www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 15
Kayaking at Pelican Point<br />
Swakopmund<br />
The old town of Swakopmund perches between<br />
the sands of the Namib Desert and the waves of<br />
the Atlantic Ocean. With misty morning fog, its<br />
climate is a contrast to the inland areas and<br />
refreshing after days in the south. The streets are<br />
wide and lined with palm trees, the buildings<br />
fascinating examples of old German architecture.<br />
There’s an array of curio and antique shops as well<br />
as some particularly good seafood restaurants<br />
serving fresh crayfish and Skeleton Coast mussels.<br />
A couple of hours’ drive north of Swakopmund<br />
you will find the seal colony at Cape Cross, home<br />
to around 200,000 Cape fur seals. South of<br />
Swakopmund – and equally worth a day’s trip – is<br />
Walvis Bay. Pelicans sweep over the dunes to the<br />
sea, whilst hundreds of flamingos, avocets and<br />
other waders can be found in the water.<br />
Pelican Point<br />
One excellent way to spend a morning is on a<br />
gentle kayaking trip around Pelican Point. Run<br />
by Jean Meintjies, these trips start early in the<br />
morning when she drives you out to Pelican<br />
Point, a sandbar near Walvis Bay. Jean has a<br />
number of sturdy sea kayaks and she guides you<br />
to three colonies of up to 300 Cape fur seals<br />
each. The seals love to swim around the kayaks<br />
and sometimes even jump over them! It is<br />
possible to see dolphins, and flocks of gulls and<br />
cormorants are often overhead. There is a<br />
stop on a beach for warm rolls and coffee for<br />
elevenses. No previous kayaking experience<br />
is needed.<br />
SWAKOPMUND GUESTHOUSE,<br />
SWAKOPMUND<br />
This upmarket guesthouse is located in the heart<br />
of Swakopmund, only five minutes’ walk from the<br />
main shopping streets and beach. There are<br />
plenty of quiet areas in the garden and the main<br />
house in which to relax and read a book. The<br />
twelve rooms have been individually furnished<br />
with crisp linens, large canvas wall art and en suite<br />
bathrooms decorated with beach pebbles to<br />
add a little character. The Borgs can help you to<br />
arrange excursions as well as giving you ideas for<br />
exploring at your own pace.<br />
Swakopmund Guesthouse<br />
CORNERSTONE GUESTHOUSE,<br />
SWAKOPMUND<br />
This small and friendly guesthouse occupies a<br />
quiet corner of the old town near the marine<br />
museum and the old brewery. It is a few minutes’<br />
walk to the Atlantic Ocean and The Tug, one of<br />
Swakopmund’s best restaurants. There are five en<br />
suite rooms and an airy breakfast room where a<br />
choice of fresh fruit, juices, yoghurts and eggs and<br />
bacon is served. On warm days, breakfast can be<br />
enjoyed on the sunny veranda.<br />
Pelicans at Walvis Bay<br />
16<br />
Cornerstone Guesthouse
Exploring the Great Dune Sea in the Northern Skeleton Coast<br />
Skeleton Coast Safaris<br />
Himba girls<br />
The Skeleton Coast<br />
North of Swakopmund the Skeleton Coast<br />
National Park stretches up to the Kunene River.<br />
It is a barren area and particularly aptly named.<br />
Strong currents, treacherous fog and shifting<br />
underwater sandbanks ensured that many early<br />
explorers’ ships were wrecked here, their<br />
remains still visible many metres from the shore.<br />
The landscape of the Skeleton Coast, whilst stark,<br />
is stunning and rock formations such as the Ugab<br />
Formations defy belief. There are clay castles at<br />
the Hoarusib Canyon, dunes that roar and<br />
reverberate, and gravel plains covered with<br />
ancient welwitschia plants. Dry river valleys are<br />
home to desert-adapted elephant, giraffe and<br />
brown hyena. The majority of the park is not<br />
accessible to vehicles, but there are two<br />
companies that operate fly-in safaris to the area.<br />
Lasting three to four days, these are regarded by<br />
experienced safari-goers as some of the best<br />
trips in Africa.<br />
Started in the sixties by Louw Schoeman and<br />
now run by his family, Skeleton Coast Safaris<br />
run three night flying safaris to the Skeleton<br />
Coast. The Schoeman brothers do most of<br />
the guiding, and it is hard to find better<br />
guides anywhere. Using light aircraft, trusty<br />
Land Rovers and your own two feet, you will<br />
explore the Skeleton Coast’s fragile<br />
ecosystem. There’s the chance to slide down<br />
roaring dunes, explore ancient bushman<br />
settlements and walk along inaccessible<br />
beaches past the skeletal remains of longwrecked<br />
ships. Each night you will stay in a<br />
different camp, of which there are three. All<br />
are tiny, but though this safari is not about<br />
Serra Cafema<br />
Flying over the Skeleton Coast<br />
accommodation, your comfort is never<br />
compromised. More often than not you will<br />
dine under a tree, hot bucket showers will<br />
be filled for you and there will be a roaring<br />
camp fire in the evening.<br />
SERRA CAFEMA, SKELETON COAST<br />
Serra Cafema is a beautiful camp situated under<br />
large albida trees on the banks of the Kunene<br />
River. The camp is in a wild area frequented by<br />
gemsbok, ostrich, desert-adapted elephant and<br />
nomadic prides of lion. Time is spent exploring<br />
the beautiful Hartmann Valley in 4x4s, the Great<br />
Dune Sea on quad-bikes and the mountains on<br />
foot. Boat trips on the Kunene River are relaxing<br />
as you float along watching birds overhead and<br />
large crocodiles basking on sandbanks.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 17
Rhino tracking in Northern Damaraland<br />
Damaraland<br />
Damaraland has a wild and rugged landscape<br />
and is one of Namibia’s least populated areas.<br />
Southern Damaraland’s great attractions include<br />
the Gross Spitzkoppe and Brandberg Mountain,<br />
both home to a wealth of rock art. Twfelfontein<br />
has hundreds of engravings (mostly depicting<br />
animals) and is perfect for a few hours’<br />
exploration. Driving to and from these you will<br />
often encounter donkey carts and tiny roadside<br />
stalls that sell gemstones and seed pod mobiles.<br />
In Northern Damaraland there are thriving<br />
populations of wild game including gemsbok,<br />
kudu, springbok, Hartmann’s zebra, desertadapted<br />
elephant and black rhino. Here, tracts<br />
of land have been designated ‘concession areas’.<br />
These areas are huge, dotted only with the<br />
Dinner at Desert Rhino Camp<br />
occasional village and visitors are strictly limited.<br />
Operators work in conjunction with the local<br />
communities, creating camps with local guides<br />
and giving a proportion of all income straight to<br />
the community. They are excellent initiatives and<br />
give you the opportunity to explore the area<br />
with those who know it best.<br />
DESERT RHINO CAMP, NORTHERN<br />
DAMARALAND<br />
Desert Rhino Camp is situated in the impressive<br />
Palmwag Concession, an area of flat-topped<br />
mountains, huge yellow plains and wild river<br />
valleys. Save the Rhino Trust are monitoring a<br />
population of black rhino here, and guests at<br />
Rhino Camp are able to go out and help with<br />
their research work. Lion frequent the Agab<br />
riverbed (and are often heard roaring at night),<br />
mountain zebra are numerous and vultures seem<br />
to roost in every tree. The camp itself is<br />
comfortable, with six large en suite tents and<br />
good food that tastes even better<br />
Doro Nawas<br />
18<br />
DORO NAWAS, SOUTHERN<br />
DAMARALAND<br />
Doro Nawas is built on a small kopje on the edge<br />
of the dry Aba-Huab River. From camp you can<br />
see the Etendeka Mountains to the north and the<br />
red cliffs of Twyfelfontein to the south. There are<br />
16 beautiful rooms with polished stone floors,<br />
large windows and en suite bathrooms. Outside,<br />
shady terraces with deep squishy chairs allow you<br />
to relax and enjoy the views.<br />
Shovel snouted lizard
Khoraan<br />
Desert adapted elephant in Northern Damaraland<br />
Camp Kipwe<br />
Damaraland road<br />
CAMP KIPWE, SOUTHERN<br />
DAMARALAND<br />
Camp Kipwe is located in a superb position in<br />
Damaraland with panoramic views over rocky<br />
kopjes, valleys and hills. The eight rooms are<br />
situated amongst the boulders giving you total<br />
privacy but you will also have plenty of<br />
opportunity to meet your fellow guests in the<br />
camp lounge area. For a spectacular sunset, make<br />
your way up the 100 steps to the sundowner<br />
view point – having a cold beer or glass of wine<br />
and watching the sun set over Damaraland is an<br />
experience not to be missed.<br />
MOWANI MOUNTAIN CAMP,<br />
SOUTHERN DAMARALAND<br />
Mowani Mountain Camp is stylish and<br />
comfortable. There are 12 safari tents that have<br />
been built unobtrusively to ensure minimum<br />
impact on the natural environment. Inside,<br />
tents have double beds, soft cream fabrics,<br />
whitewashed floors and stylish bathrooms. All the<br />
tents face east so you can see the sunrise from<br />
your bed. The main lodge has a pool carved out<br />
of the rock and a sundowner bar on top of the<br />
kopje with sweeping views. Just an hour from<br />
Twyfelfontein and with plenty of guides, it’s a<br />
luxurious base from which to explore.<br />
Mowani Mountain Camp<br />
ETENDEKA CAMP, ETENDEKA<br />
CONCESSION, NORTHERN<br />
DAMARALAND<br />
Lying on the open Etendeka lava plains, Etendeka<br />
Camp is small, simple and set in dramatic scenery.<br />
Owned by Dennis Leibenberg – who pioneered<br />
community involvement in tourism initiatives –<br />
this is a thriving camp whose excellent guides<br />
know all the birds, plants and insects as well as<br />
the mammals. Days often consist of nature walks,<br />
afternoon drives and perhaps a short trip up to<br />
a mountain top to enjoy a sundowner.<br />
Giraffe in Northern Damaraland<br />
www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 19
Self-driving in Namibia<br />
Road in Southern Namibia<br />
A self-drive trip is a wonderful way to explore<br />
Namibia as the roads are well maintained, they<br />
wind through spectacular scenery, and there is<br />
little traffic. You can explore entirely at your<br />
own pace and drive to the camps and lodges<br />
we have prearranged for you.<br />
Namibia’s roads<br />
Namibia’s main roads have tar surfaces. These<br />
include the roads from Windhoek to South<br />
Africa, Swakopmund and north to Etosha and<br />
the Caprivi. The rest of the network is gravel.<br />
The gravel roads are well graded and generally<br />
in good condition in the dry season. In the rainy<br />
season, however, rivers can occasionally flood<br />
across the road. All the gravel roads are well<br />
signposted and as there are only a few roads<br />
to choose from, it is very hard to get lost.<br />
As you drive along, you will find a number of<br />
designated picnic spots. These have an area to<br />
park, picnic table and benches – set in the<br />
shade of large trees where possible. As there<br />
is very little traffic, however, you will find that<br />
you can always stop at the side of the road<br />
whenever you wish, to enjoy the view or to<br />
take a picture.<br />
Driving distances and times<br />
Distances are large in Namibia and we<br />
recommend you set off early in the morning and<br />
drive at a leisurely pace, enjoying the journey as<br />
you go. By leaving early you can enjoy the first<br />
part of your drive in the cool of the day, and we<br />
have often seen animals on or beside the road<br />
at this time. You can aim to arrive at your next<br />
lodge in time for lunch and then have the<br />
afternoon either to relax, explore at your own<br />
pace or join a guided activity. We will give you a<br />
guide to distances and times with your itinerary<br />
so you can plan your days accordingly.<br />
Cars<br />
It is possible to drive around the country in an<br />
ordinary car however we usually recommend a<br />
4x4. We will discuss with you what type of car<br />
you’d like, taking into account the number of<br />
people in your party, how much luggage you<br />
have and the route you are taking. In the rainy<br />
season we would always recommend a 4x4.<br />
Etosha<br />
Self-driving is a great way to see Etosha’s big<br />
game as you can decide which waterholes you<br />
want to head for and can spend as long as<br />
you like viewing the wildlife. The speed limit is<br />
60 kilometres per hour as you could encounter<br />
game of all sizes on the roads. You will find<br />
many of the animals are accustomed to vehicles<br />
and you will get some superb photographs from<br />
your car. If you prefer not to self-drive, we can<br />
arrange organised game drives for you.<br />
Road sign in Damaraland<br />
Game viewing in Etosha<br />
20
Driving in Damaraland<br />
Transparent Namib dune gecko<br />
Seal at Cape Cross<br />
Donkey cart on the road<br />
Traffic is light in Windhoek<br />
Self-driving with <strong>Audley</strong><br />
We have been arranging self-drive trips to<br />
Namibia for years and offer a few small touches<br />
to make your trip easier and more comfortable.<br />
Planning<br />
All our specialists have driven extensively<br />
around Namibia. We will plan a route<br />
carefully taking into account what you’d like<br />
to do and keeping an eye on the driving<br />
distances and times.<br />
Maps<br />
On arrival in Namibia you will be given a fully<br />
annotated map with your route highlighted<br />
and your lodges marked.<br />
Phones<br />
It is always useful to have a mobile phone and<br />
Namibia’s network coverage is improving each<br />
year. We can provide you with a phone with all<br />
the numbers of your lodges programmed into<br />
it as well as our contact numbers. We provide<br />
a phone card for you which you can top up<br />
as you need.<br />
Cool boxes<br />
We always recommend that you carry water<br />
and a few snacks in the car. To enable you to<br />
keep your drinks cool, we will supply you with<br />
a cool box at the start of your trip which we<br />
ask you to return at the end.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 21
Breeding herd of elephant in Etosha<br />
Etosha National Park<br />
Etosha is one of Africa’s largest game parks. Much<br />
of it is covered by the silver Etosha salt pan that<br />
shimmers in the heat, but to the south are open<br />
grasslands, woodland and waterholes that act as<br />
magnets for game. In the dry season the game<br />
congregates around the water sources, leading to<br />
some phenomenal game viewing. On Etosha’s<br />
grassveld it is easy to find grazers, including<br />
Burchell’s zebra, blue wildebeest, red hartebeest<br />
and black-faced impala. Kudu are found on the<br />
margins of the woodland, whilst giraffe nibble the<br />
acacias and eland come to drink. Etosha’s cats are<br />
thriving, with large populations of lion, leopard<br />
and cheetah. Elephant are found in hundred<br />
strong herds whilst black and white rhino are also<br />
found, particularly in the west of the park. Etosha<br />
Zebra at a waterhole in Etosha<br />
22<br />
has over 340 bird species and it is common to<br />
see ostrich and secretary birds on the open plains.<br />
There are over 35 species of raptor, including the<br />
yellowbilled kite, steppe eagle and pygmy falcon.<br />
To explore Etosha you can either self-drive from<br />
camps inside the park or enjoy both self-drive and<br />
guided trips from one of the private reserves<br />
outside the park gates.<br />
Ongava Lodge<br />
ONGAVA LODGE, ONGAVA<br />
RESERVE, SOUTHERN ETOSHA<br />
Ongava Lodge is situated within the private<br />
Ongava Reserve adjacent to Etosha. The lodge<br />
comprises of 14 en suite air-conditioned chalets,<br />
attractively built out of rock and thatch. Every<br />
chalet has a deck for afternoon reading or<br />
enjoying the view, if you’re not inclined to take<br />
a dip in the pool. Activities include walks, night<br />
drives and rhino tracking on the reserve as well<br />
as game drives into Etosha.<br />
Lion on the road from Okaukuejo<br />
ONGAVA TENTED CAMP, ONGAVA<br />
RESERVE, SOUTHERN ETOSHA<br />
Small, intimate and comfortable, the Ongava<br />
Tented Camp has eight tastefully decorated tents<br />
with en suite bathrooms with an indoor and<br />
outdoor shower. Each tent overlooks the busy<br />
waterhole, which attracts a wide variety of<br />
mammals and birds and is floodlit at night. Tasty<br />
home-cooked meals are served in the open-sided<br />
dining room and guests sit together at a large table.<br />
There is a friendly and relaxed atmosphere with<br />
guests chatting late into the night around the fire.<br />
Ongava Tented Camp
Secretary bird<br />
Mushara Outpost<br />
Giraffe on Etosha’s grasslands<br />
Namutoni Restcamp Mushara Bush Camp The pool at Onguma Tented Camp<br />
OKAUKUEJO, HALALI AND<br />
NAMUTONI RESTCAMPS, ETOSHA<br />
These three restcamps are run by the<br />
government and offer accommodation with basic<br />
facilities within the park. Okaukuejo is in the west<br />
of the park, Halali in the centre and Namutoni in<br />
the east. Surrounded by game fences, each camp<br />
has an array of bungalows, a restaurant, shop and<br />
pool. Whilst the accommodation is simple, the<br />
real attraction is the waterholes beside which<br />
the camps are built. These are exciting at night<br />
when elephant, rhino, giraffe and lion appear<br />
out of the dark to drink.<br />
MUSHARA BUSH CAMP,<br />
EASTERN ETOSHA<br />
Mushara Bush Camp offers a down-to-earth<br />
tented experience which is well suited to<br />
independent travellers exploring Etosha. The 16<br />
custom-made tents are spacious and airy and each<br />
has a shower looking into the bush. The main area<br />
is thatched and has a true camp feel to it, as early<br />
evenings see a fire lit around which guests sit and<br />
exchange stories of the day’s wildlife sightings.<br />
Dinners are served outside on the veranda and<br />
food is both plentiful and delicious.<br />
ONGUMA TENTED CAMP,<br />
ONGUMA RESERVE, EASTERN ETOSHA<br />
Onguma Tented Camp is situated in the private<br />
Onguma Reserve around a natural waterhole that<br />
attracts giraffe, zebra, oryx and occasionally lion<br />
and rhino. The camp has seven luxury tents built<br />
out of wood and stone and furnished with natural<br />
textiles. The infinity pool looks over the waterhole<br />
and has comfortable sunloungers where you can<br />
relax and read a book or watch the game coming<br />
to drink. Guests can either drive into the reserve<br />
or enjoy guided game drives.<br />
MUSHARA OUTPOST,<br />
EASTERN ETOSHA<br />
This luxury tented camp is situated on the<br />
banks of a dry riverbed on Mushara’s private<br />
land. Each en suite tent is built on a wooden<br />
deck and has glass windows and doors with<br />
built in fly-screens to keep some of the smaller<br />
local residents outside. For the hottest days, there<br />
is air-conditioning. The main building has the style<br />
of an old farmhouse with tall walls, an iron roof<br />
and wrap around veranda. Both scheduled and<br />
private game drives into Etosha are possible.<br />
Gemsbok and ostrich at a waterhole<br />
www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 23
Hippo in Caprivi<br />
Kudu in Mudumu National Park<br />
The Caprivi Strip<br />
In northern Namibia the Caprivi Strip stretches<br />
east along the top of Botswana and is quite<br />
unlike the rest of the country. Thanks to its<br />
relatively high rainfall it has lush vegetation, and<br />
many small villages with children herding goats<br />
and cows. Game parks support high densities<br />
of elephant, buffalo, lion and hippo, and<br />
crocodile are ever-present in the wetland<br />
areas. The permanent rivers, reedbeds and<br />
riverine forest host a large number of bird<br />
species, including those not commonly found<br />
in other parts of Namibia, such as kingfishers,<br />
darters, herons and gallinules. As a trip across<br />
the Caprivi takes around two weeks, we<br />
recommend that you only drive one way,<br />
ending your trip at Victoria Falls.<br />
NDHOVU SAFARI LODGE,<br />
MAHANGU GAME RESERVE<br />
This lodge is situated two kilometres from the<br />
Mahangu Game Reserve, which is ideal for<br />
game viewing and a birder’s paradise. There<br />
are eight safari tents overlooking the river,<br />
where elephant often come to drink. All the<br />
tents have twin beds and en suite facilities. At<br />
night you can hear the hippo grazing close by.<br />
Activities from the lodge include boat trips,<br />
game drives and birdwatching.<br />
24<br />
Lianshulu Lodge<br />
LIANSHULU LODGE, MUDUMU<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Lianshulu Lodge is situated on the banks of<br />
the Kwando River in the Mudumu National<br />
Park. The surrounding area is a wilderness of<br />
riverine forest, marsh and open woodland,<br />
and game densities are high. The lodge has<br />
11 thatched chalets, stylishly furnished with<br />
polished wooden floors, large beds with crisp<br />
linen, inside and outside showers and viewing<br />
decks overlooking the river and flood plains.<br />
There is also a small pool which is perfect<br />
for hot afternoons.<br />
Elephant in the Chobe River<br />
Ndhovu Safari Lodge<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Namibia specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 525<br />
Getting around<br />
The main way to explore Namibia is on a selfdrive<br />
safari. You will collect your car in Windhoek<br />
and our agents will brief you fully on your<br />
journey, providing maps and driving directions.<br />
The majority of roads are gravel but they are<br />
usually well graded and always well signposted –<br />
with a good map it is hard to get lost. A 4x4 is<br />
essential in the rainy season, however, at other<br />
times of year an ordinary car can be used. When<br />
you reach your destination you can leave your car<br />
and set out to explore on guided excursions. We<br />
have suggested two self-drive itineraries here but<br />
these are a tiny fraction of the trips we can<br />
arrange. An alternative to driving is flying around<br />
the country using the scheduled light aircraft<br />
flights that go to the Sossusvlei, Damaraland and<br />
Etosha regions. You can choose how many days<br />
you’d like to stay in each place and we can tailor<br />
the trip to this.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Namibia has a sub-tropical desert climate,<br />
characterised by low rainfall and large<br />
temperature fluctuations between day and night.<br />
During the dry season, which runs broadly from<br />
April to October, the skies are blue with rarely a<br />
cloud in sight. In November the rain clouds start<br />
to build but rain tends not to fall until early<br />
December. Then, through the rainy period there<br />
will typically be a downpour for around an hour<br />
on some days, before the skies and the<br />
atmosphere clear again.<br />
Time difference: GMT+1 hour<br />
Flight time from UK: 12 hours and 30 minutes<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Namibia on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.
Suggested itineraries<br />
Southern<br />
Damaraland<br />
ANGOLA<br />
Etosha National Park<br />
Northern<br />
Damaraland<br />
ANGOLA<br />
Etosha National Park<br />
ANGOLA<br />
Etosha National Park<br />
Central Highlands<br />
Rundu<br />
Mahangu<br />
Game<br />
Reserve<br />
Livingstone<br />
Mudumu<br />
National<br />
Park<br />
Kasane<br />
Swakopmund<br />
Windhoek<br />
Swakopmund<br />
Windhoek<br />
Windhoek<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
Sossusvlei<br />
NAMBIA<br />
Sossusvlei<br />
NamibRand Nature Reserve<br />
NAMBIA<br />
NAMBIA<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
Highlights of Namibia<br />
This itinerary is a self-drive circular trip of<br />
Namibia’s highlights. You will have the chance to<br />
enjoy the dunes at Sossusvlei, kayak to the seal<br />
colony at Pelican Point, track desert elephant in<br />
Damaraland and enjoy Etosha’s big game. Many of<br />
the lodges have guides who will take you out to<br />
explore. We will provide you with maps and<br />
information so all you have to do is hop in the<br />
car and go.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Days 3-4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Days 7-8<br />
Days 9-10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Fly from the UK to Windhoek<br />
via Frankfurt.<br />
Arrive in Windhoek. Road transfer<br />
into Windhoek for one night at The<br />
Elegant Guesthouse.<br />
Collect car and self-drive to<br />
Sossusvlei for two nights at the<br />
Sossus Dune Lodge. Explore the<br />
dunes at Sossusvlei.<br />
Drive to Swakopmund for two nights<br />
at Cornerstone Guesthouse.<br />
Morning kayak trip to Pelican Point.<br />
Drive to Southern Damaraland for<br />
two nights at Camp Kipwe. Explore<br />
Damaraland on guided game drives.<br />
Drive to Etosha National Park<br />
for two nights at Okaukuejo<br />
Restcamp. Game viewing in Etosha<br />
National Park.<br />
Drive to Windhoek and leave the<br />
car at Windhoek Airport. Fly from<br />
Windhoek to Frankfurt<br />
Fly from Frankfurt to London. Arrive<br />
back in the UK in the early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
If you would like to end your trip with some<br />
relaxing time on a beach then we suggest adding<br />
on a week in Mauritius. A lush tropical island,<br />
Mauritius is quite a contrast to Namibia. We can<br />
recommend a handful of delightful hotels with<br />
good food in quiet locations. All are set above<br />
picture perfect beaches and have beautiful pools,<br />
small spas and extensive water and land based<br />
activities. After time in Mauritius you can take a<br />
direct flight back to the UK.<br />
Desert Flying<br />
See Namibia’s spectacular scenery from the air.<br />
On the trip you can explore the NamibRand<br />
Nature Reserve before heading up to Sossusvlei<br />
to climb the world’s highest dunes. In northern<br />
Namibia you will track rhino in Damaraland before<br />
ending your trip in Etosha. This trip is suited to<br />
those looking to enjoy Namibia’s highlights from<br />
luxurious camps with expert guides.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Days 3-4<br />
Days 5-6<br />
Days 7-8<br />
Days 9-10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Fly from the UK to Windhoek<br />
via Frankfurt.<br />
Transfer into Windhoek for one<br />
night at The Olive Grove.<br />
Fly to the NamibRand Nature<br />
Reserve for two nights at<br />
Wolwedans Dune Lodge. Explore<br />
the NamibRand on game drives and<br />
walking safaris.<br />
Fly to the Kulala Wilderness Reserve<br />
for two nights at the Kulala Desert<br />
Lodge. Explore Sossusvlei on nature<br />
drives and on foot.<br />
Fly to Northern Damaraland for<br />
two nights at Rhino Camp. Rhino<br />
tracking and game viewing on foot<br />
and by vehicle.<br />
Fly to the Ongava Reserve for two<br />
nights at Ongava Tented Camp.<br />
Game viewing on the Ongava<br />
Reserve and in Etosha National Park.<br />
Fly to Windhoek and connect with<br />
your flight to Frankfurt.<br />
Fly from Frankfurt to the UK, arriving<br />
in the early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Fly from Windhoek to Maun in Botswana and<br />
spend four nights in the heart of the Okavango<br />
Delta. In contrast to Namibia, here you will be<br />
surrounded by twinkling rivers, waterlilies, birds<br />
and butterflies. Spend the days exploring by boat<br />
or mokoro and on morning and afternoon game<br />
drives to seek out Botswana’s big game. At night,<br />
enjoy drinks around the campfire before a dinner<br />
lit by lanterns and candles.<br />
Caprivi Explorer<br />
The Caprivi Explorer starts in Windhoek and ends<br />
at Livingstone in Zambia and would suit wildlife<br />
enthusiasts. There is the chance to see big cats at<br />
Okonjima before heading into Etosha. In the<br />
Caprivi, the environment changes, with rivers and<br />
wetlands alive with water birds. Game here can be<br />
viewed from boats as well as open 4x4s. The trip<br />
ends in Livingstone, from where you can visit the<br />
Victoria Falls.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Days 4-5<br />
Day 6<br />
Days 7-9<br />
Fly from the UK to Windhoek via<br />
Frankfurt.<br />
Road transfer into Windhoek for one<br />
night at The Elegant Guesthouse.<br />
Self-drive to the Central Highlands<br />
for one night at Okonjima Lodge.<br />
View cheetah on guided drives.<br />
Drive to Eastern Etosha for two<br />
nights at Mushara Bushcamp. Game<br />
viewing in Etosha National Park.<br />
Drive to Rundu for one night at<br />
Hakusembe River Lodge. Afternoon<br />
boat trip.<br />
Drive to the Mahangu National Park<br />
for three nights at Ndhovu Safari<br />
Lodge. Game viewing in the Park.<br />
Day 10-12 Drive to Mudumu National Park for<br />
three nights at Lianshulu Lodge.<br />
Further time on safari.<br />
Days 13-15 Drive to Kasane and leave car. Road<br />
transfer to Livingstone for three<br />
nights at Waterberry Lodge. Enjoy<br />
boat trips on the Zambezi River.<br />
Day 16<br />
Day 17<br />
Fly to Johannesburg and then the UK.<br />
Arrive back in the UK in the early<br />
morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
From Ndhovu Safari Lodge, drive south into<br />
Botswana and stay at Nxamaseri Lodge in<br />
Botswana’s Panhandle region for three days. In this<br />
wetland Delta environment, you can enjoy walking<br />
safaris as well as boat trips on which you will be<br />
surrounded by hippos, crocodiles and waterbirds.<br />
After three days, drive back into Namibia and<br />
continue your trip along the Caprivi.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 25
South Africa<br />
South Africa is a diverse and<br />
beautiful country with a huge<br />
amount to offer from cosmopolitan<br />
cities and superb safaris to historic<br />
battlegrounds and picturesque<br />
vineyards producing excellent wines.<br />
Among the highlights are the lagoons<br />
and dunes of the Garden Route, the<br />
iconic outline of Table Mountain, the<br />
aloes and cracked rocks of the Klein<br />
Karoo and expansive battlefields of<br />
KwaZulu-Natal. South Africa has<br />
excellent wildlife with the big five<br />
resident in the Kruger National Park.<br />
Other lesser known reserves such as<br />
Madikwe, Phinda, and the private<br />
reserves of the Eastern Cape offer just<br />
as good game viewing with fewer<br />
visitors. Those interested in marine<br />
life can enjoy whale watching off the<br />
Cape Coast from July to November.<br />
Due to excellent flight connections<br />
with the UK and variety of<br />
accommodation, trips can be tailored<br />
to suit all interests and budgets.<br />
Table Mountain<br />
1 Cape Town<br />
The iconic Table Mountain and<br />
Cape Point are two dramatic<br />
features of this culturally<br />
diverse city.<br />
mountain passes, pretty towns<br />
and beautiful wilderness areas.<br />
5 Kruger National Park<br />
Home to the Big Five and a<br />
wide range of safari camps.<br />
6<br />
5<br />
7<br />
8<br />
2 Winelands<br />
Stellenbosch and Franschhoek<br />
are the heart of the wine<br />
region, famous for food<br />
and drink.<br />
3 Whale Coast<br />
From July to November,<br />
Hermanus offers the best<br />
land-based whale watching in<br />
the world.<br />
4 Garden Route<br />
A route winding through<br />
6 Drakensberg Mountains<br />
The highest mountain range<br />
in Southern Africa, excellent<br />
for hiking.<br />
7 Battlefields<br />
Professional tours to the sites of<br />
the Anglo-Zulu and Anglo-Boer<br />
Wars are spell-binding.<br />
8 Elephant Coast<br />
In KwaZulu-Natal, this coastline<br />
has beautiful beaches and<br />
excellent diving.<br />
1<br />
2<br />
4<br />
3<br />
26<br />
Cape Dutch Farmhouse
Leopard in the Kruger National Park<br />
The Cape Region<br />
Cape Town is a city on everyone’s must-see list.<br />
As well as being a vibrant hub with great<br />
shopping and restaurants, it is also a good base<br />
for exploration of the region, particularly the<br />
Cape Peninsula. The nearby Winelands can either<br />
be visited from Cape Town, or a few days can be<br />
spent based at a vineyard in Franschhoek or<br />
Stellenbosch. East of Cape Town, Walker and<br />
Gans Bay are two of the best locations in which<br />
to see whales, in season. The Garden Route is<br />
ideal for a few days spent exploring the lagoons,<br />
wandering along sandy beaches, or walking<br />
through forested hills. Towards the end of the<br />
Garden Route you encounter the Wild Coast, an<br />
unspoilt area of deserted beaches fringed with<br />
mangrove jungle – arguably the most beautiful<br />
area of South Africa.<br />
KwaZulu-Natal<br />
The province of KwaZulu-Natal justifies a trip in<br />
its own right. The towering Drakensberg<br />
Mountains are within easy reach of Durban and<br />
are popular with those keen on hiking and<br />
photography. Nearby, the famous battlefields of<br />
Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift are a must for<br />
history enthusiasts. There are a few lovely, homely<br />
lodges complete with expert guides to recount<br />
tales on the sites of the battles themselves. If<br />
birding and safari are of interest then the region<br />
does not disappoint, as it contains the wetland<br />
ecosystem of Lake St Lucia, full of aquatic birds,<br />
and the surrounding bush is home to the big five.<br />
No trip to this area would be complete without a<br />
few days’ relaxation on some of the dramatic<br />
beaches that stretch north from Durban to the<br />
Mozambique border.<br />
Safari<br />
Safari is a huge draw in South Africa. There are<br />
four key areas: the Greater Kruger Park, the<br />
Eastern Cape, Madikwe and the reserves in<br />
KwaZulu-Natal. With the exception of the Kruger,<br />
all are malaria-free making them excellent options,<br />
particularly for families. The Kruger is the largest<br />
of all the parks with fantastic game viewing. It<br />
offers every type of accommodation from basic<br />
self-catering chalets to some of Africa’s most<br />
opulent lodges. The Eastern Cape reserves work<br />
well for those exploring the Garden Route as<br />
they are within easy reach. These areas are<br />
especially well suited to families, and offer safari<br />
activities for children. The Madikwe Reserve<br />
bordering Botswana is a wild reserve with few<br />
lodges; it offers a quieter experience and is suited<br />
to the safari purist. Finally, the reserves in<br />
KwaZulu-Natal offer everything from the oldest<br />
game park in Africa to award-winning parks with<br />
stunning accommodation and the big five.<br />
Zulu girl<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> in South Africa<br />
South Africa has a good road network, traffic<br />
is generally light, and driving is on the left –<br />
all of which make it an ideal self-drive<br />
destination. Many of our travellers choose<br />
this option, and we provide good quality<br />
cars with comprehensive sets of maps and<br />
directions. For those who don’t want to<br />
drive, we work closely with a number of<br />
guides and drivers who can drive you around<br />
the country. A fun way to explore is on a rail<br />
journey, and we can book seats on both the<br />
Blue Train and Rovos Rail. Our specialists<br />
have explored the country every possible<br />
way themselves and can advise on the best<br />
option to suit you.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Accommodation in South Africa is varied and<br />
there are endless options. We have travelled<br />
extensively throughout the country and have<br />
hand-picked a selection of properties for<br />
their character, hospitality and service. We<br />
tend to avoid the large chain hotels and<br />
prefer lodges and guesthouses. These are<br />
small – normally about five to ten rooms –<br />
and are owned and run by people we know<br />
personally. We find that this ensures the<br />
utmost attention to detail for our travellers,<br />
with the added advantage that the owners<br />
themselves are a wealth of local information.<br />
We also work with some of South Africa’s<br />
leading hotels, as well as safari properties<br />
ranging from simple tented camps to<br />
opulent lodges.<br />
Our South<br />
Africa Brochure<br />
We have a brochure<br />
dedicated to South Africa.<br />
Please call our specialists<br />
on 01993 838 550 for<br />
your copy.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in South Africa,<br />
please see see our website or request<br />
our South Africa brochure.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features, further<br />
suggested itineraries, accommodation,<br />
climate information and articles written<br />
by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our South Africa<br />
specialists 01993 838 550<br />
South Africa 27
Botswana<br />
Over a thousand miles from Botswana,<br />
rain falls in Central Africa. Big drops<br />
drip from trees, rush into streams, down<br />
gullies and into rivers. Slowly the<br />
Okavango River forms, and flows, not to<br />
the sea, but into the rippling sands of the<br />
Kalahari where it disperses in a myriad<br />
of waterways and twinkling lagoons,<br />
creating a delicate web of life. This is the<br />
Okavango Delta, a world of glittering<br />
water. Whispering palm islands are<br />
criss-crossed with animal tracks, the<br />
surrounding lagoons carpeted with lilies<br />
beneath which silver fish dart to and fro.<br />
Iridescent kingfishers dive, hippos grunt<br />
and papyrus rustles in the breeze. Elephant<br />
and giraffe feed in the shade of waterberries<br />
whilst on open grasslands buffalo, tsessebe,<br />
zebra and wildebeest are watched by the<br />
eyes of lion. Red lechwe fly across emerald<br />
green floodplains and in the distance a<br />
fish eagle cries. As night falls the clink of<br />
the reedfrogs begins. Fruitbats squeak and<br />
spirals of wood smoke rise from the glowing<br />
embers of a fire. The ink black sky is<br />
littered with stars and the shining haze<br />
of the milky way.<br />
28
<strong>Audley</strong> in Botswana<br />
2<br />
7<br />
6<br />
1<br />
9<br />
3<br />
5<br />
4<br />
10<br />
8<br />
Botswana is often viewed as the ultimate<br />
safari destination in Africa. Game is excellent,<br />
there are a small number of camps and the<br />
scenery is unparalleled. The country is famous<br />
for its beautiful Okavango Delta and we<br />
would recommend spending time here. The<br />
central Okavango has deep water areas with<br />
papyrus-lined channels, floodplains and palm<br />
islands. It is an ideal environment to enjoy<br />
boat and mokoro trips in search of hippo,<br />
crocodile and birds. At the fringes of the<br />
Delta the water meets the dry plains. Here<br />
some of Botswana’s most impressive game<br />
can be enjoyed from open 4x4s as well as<br />
boats and on foot. Whilst the Okavango<br />
Delta is often top of the list for travellers to<br />
Botswana, other regions such as the Linyanti<br />
Wetlands, Chobe National Park, Makgadikgadi<br />
Pans and Central Kalahari, should not be<br />
overlooked. It is also easy to visit the Victoria<br />
Falls either before or after a safari.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Meerkats in the Makgadikgadi Pans<br />
1 Central Okavango Delta<br />
An area of tranquil waterways<br />
and lagoons lined by papyrus<br />
and covered with waterlilies,<br />
best enjoyed from a mokoro.<br />
2 The Okavango Fringes<br />
Waterways meet dry land areas<br />
and give rise to prolific game.<br />
A good range of safari activities<br />
includes walks, mokoro trips and<br />
game drives.<br />
3 Moremi Game Reserve<br />
At the heart of the Delta<br />
encompassing Chief’s Island this<br />
is one of Africa’s finest big game<br />
areas.<br />
4 Chobe National Park<br />
Famed for huge herds of<br />
elephant and buffalo, this is also<br />
a good area for big cats.<br />
5 Chobe River<br />
This large river is renowned for<br />
providing drinking water to large<br />
herds of elephant. Giraffe,<br />
buffalo, zebra and big cats are<br />
often found on the floodplains.<br />
6 The Duba Plains<br />
Known for the thousand-strong<br />
herd of buffalo and five large<br />
lion prides that hunt them on a<br />
daily basis.<br />
7 Linyanti Wetlands<br />
A beautiful area encompassing<br />
plains and lagoons. One of the<br />
best places in Africa to see<br />
wild dog.<br />
Game viewing in Chitabe Concession<br />
Flying over the Delta<br />
8 Makgadikgadi Pans<br />
Stunning other-worldly scenery,<br />
unrivalled remoteness and clans<br />
of meerkat make this a unique<br />
place to explore.<br />
9 Central Kalahari<br />
The desert blooms after the<br />
rains and attracts large numbers<br />
of zebra and other plains game<br />
as well as hyena and blackmaned<br />
lion.<br />
10 Nxai Pan<br />
This stark desert environment<br />
supports good game densities<br />
and is home to one of<br />
Botswana’s most iconic sights,<br />
the Baines Baobabs.<br />
Botswana has been extremely careful in the<br />
development of its camps and as a result<br />
there are only a small number of properties<br />
in the country. All the camps are unique in<br />
both character and location - some built up<br />
in trees and others on stilts above the<br />
floodplains. None of the camps are fenced<br />
so don’t be surprised to find elephant outside<br />
your tent. Botswana has a reputation for<br />
being expensive and the most luxurious<br />
lodges are not cheap. However you do get<br />
what you pay for – a beautiful camp in a<br />
pristine environment. If you do not have the<br />
budget for the higher end camps we know<br />
lots of other ways to explore the country.<br />
Mobile camping safaris are an excellent<br />
option, as are some of the lesser-known<br />
camps in the national parks. We know all<br />
the camps from personal experience and<br />
can tailor an itinerary to match both your<br />
interests and budget.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Botswana, please<br />
see page 41.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Botswana<br />
specialists 01993 838 530<br />
Botswana 29
Mokoro trip in the Central Okavango<br />
The Central Okavango<br />
The Central Okavango has some of Africa’s most<br />
beautiful scenery. There are deep blue channels,<br />
emerald-green floodplains and palm islands. The<br />
waters are covered in thousands of flowers, with<br />
carpets of orange riverlilies, pink waterlilies and<br />
water lettuce. Tiny reed frogs cling to papyrus and<br />
in open lagoons only the flick of a hippo’s ear or<br />
the corrugated back of a crocodile stirs the water.<br />
The waterways are home to some spectacular<br />
birdlife. As the mist rises from the water in the<br />
early morning it is possible to see little bee-eaters<br />
perched in fluffy groups on the papyrus. Malachite,<br />
pied, woodland and pygmy are just some of the<br />
kingfishers you may see, whilst on the floodplains,<br />
wattled cranes, saddlebilled storks and slaty egrets<br />
catch tiny silver fish and frogs.<br />
From the deep channels, squashed reeds indicate<br />
a hippo track leading up to the dry land of a palm<br />
island. Here you will find elephant, giraffe, zebra,<br />
tsessebe, bushbuck and baboon. At night,<br />
fruit-bats squeak and bushbabies leap in the trees.<br />
The Central Okavango is spanned by the Moremi<br />
Game Reserve as well as private reserves<br />
including the Jao, Xigera, Nxabega and Xudum<br />
Reserves. These have a number of small camps<br />
ranging from luxury chalets to tree top houses.<br />
All offer a variety of activities including game<br />
drives, walks and night drives, but boating and<br />
mokoro (dug out canoe) trips are the highlights.<br />
30<br />
Arriving at Kanana airstrip<br />
Elephant in the Okavango<br />
Lilac breasted roller<br />
KANANA CAMP, NXABEGA<br />
RESERVE, CENTRAL OKAVANGO<br />
Kanana Camp is set in the Nxabega Reserve<br />
near the Xudum River. The area is dotted with<br />
fig, palm and waterberry trees, providing valuable<br />
shade and lookout points for predators, who<br />
gather to spot their prey on the floodplains.<br />
Kanana has eight en suite safari tents which can<br />
be opened up completely, giving a lovely airy feel<br />
during the heat of the day. Outside on the<br />
shaded veranda there are a couple of safari chairs,<br />
ideal for sitting with your binoculars and a book.<br />
The camp is built around a large tree with steps<br />
down to a sandy boma where a fire blazes at<br />
night. Activities from Kanana include mokoro trips,<br />
boating, walking and game drives.<br />
Kanana Camp
BOTSWANA<br />
Frog on a lily pad<br />
Nxabega Okavango Camp<br />
NXABEGA OKAVANGO SAFARI<br />
CAMP, NXABEGA RESERVE,<br />
CENTRAL OKAVANGO<br />
Flying into the Nxabega Reserve, you see the<br />
deep winding Bora River and twinkling channels<br />
crisscrossed with a network of hippo paths.<br />
Though you won’t spot it from the air, Nxabega<br />
Camp is tucked into the riverine vegetation,<br />
overlooking a shallow channel. There are ten<br />
tents, spaced well apart in the trees, each<br />
containing beds with fluffy duvets, desks with<br />
porcupine-quill lamps and big white candles for<br />
lighting at night. Food is particularly good at<br />
Nxabega with dining outside under the stars.<br />
Whilst game drives are possible it’s the boat and<br />
mokoro trips that are the highlights of a stay here,<br />
accompanied by an expert guide to help you<br />
explore the Xou Lagoon and perhaps even try<br />
a spot of fishing.<br />
XIGERA CAMP, XIGERA RESERVE,<br />
CENTRAL OKAVANGO<br />
Xigera is built in one of the most beautiful<br />
corners of the Okavango. The camp is<br />
surrounded by deep water and offers mokoro<br />
and boat trips as well as walks and drives on<br />
nearby islands. There are eight spacious tents with<br />
large beds, rush matting on the floors, wooden<br />
wardrobes and en suite bathrooms with indoor<br />
and outdoor showers. The rooms are built within<br />
a shady grove and overlook a floodplain and a<br />
waterhole which is frequented by elephant,<br />
lechwe, buffalo and lots of birds. Meals are<br />
enjoyed in an open-sided dining room with<br />
views of the river. There’s a plunge pool for hot<br />
afternoons and a roaring campfire at night. In an<br />
area with no other camps, Xigera is an ideal base<br />
in the heart of the Okavango.<br />
Xigera Camp<br />
Xudum Delta Lodge<br />
XUDUM DELTA LODGE, XUDUM<br />
RESERVE, CENTRAL OKAVANGO<br />
Xudum Delta Lodge offers privacy and exclusivity<br />
and is one of the most luxurious properties in the<br />
Delta. The nine split-level safari suites have large<br />
bedrooms with king-sized beds and bathrooms<br />
with bathtubs and outdoor showers. A private<br />
plunge pool and a lofty viewing platform offer<br />
magnificent Delta views. During your stay at<br />
Xudum you can enjoy walking safaris and game<br />
drives. Night drives are good for spotting owls,<br />
civet, wild cats and bushbabies. As the lodge is in<br />
a permanent water area you can enjoy water<br />
activities all year round. Sit back and relax as<br />
you are gently poled through the lily and reed<br />
waterways in a traditional mokoro.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 31
Buffalo on the Duba Plains<br />
The Northern Okavango<br />
Fringes<br />
At the northern fringes of the Delta the waters<br />
of the Okavango meet the dry plains and give<br />
rise to an area of both spectacular beauty and<br />
extraordinary game. The environment<br />
encompasses sweeping floodplains, islands of<br />
strangler figs, forests of tall mangosteen and open<br />
grassland where game congregates. Plains game<br />
such as zebra, tsessebe, impala, giraffe, wildebeest<br />
and large herds of buffalo are found in large<br />
numbers in the dryer areas. On one plain, known<br />
as Duba, there are hundreds of buffalo that are<br />
hunted daily by large prides of lion.<br />
Lagoons such as the Kaparota are spectacular at<br />
sunset when herds of elephant come to drink,<br />
moving their feet to create waves that keep<br />
crocodiles at bay. Forests are home to leopard<br />
and hyena, and jackal and wild dog can also be<br />
found. The seasonal channels and glassy pools<br />
are magical, with crystal clear water and tiny silver<br />
fish darting below. Pied kingfishers flit above the<br />
waters and black crakes dart into the reeds. The<br />
northern fringes of the Delta are shared by the<br />
Moremi Game Reserve and a number of private<br />
reserves including the Shinde, Kwara, Vumbura<br />
and Duba. With seasonal flood waters flowing in<br />
and out of these areas, game drives are possible<br />
all year round and boat trips begin when the<br />
floodwaters have arrived, from May onwards.<br />
32<br />
SHINDE CAMP, SHINDE RESERVE,<br />
NORTHERN OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />
Shinde Camp is situated on a large palm island in<br />
the northern Okavango Delta. It is surrounded by<br />
clear waterways bursting with birdlife and plains<br />
where game can be found. The camp has eight<br />
spacious safari tents raised up on decks<br />
overlooking a large plain. The open sided central<br />
lounge is built on raised wooden decking on<br />
various levels, rising towards a bowed canvas roof,<br />
a little like an old ox-wagon. Shinde boasts a wide<br />
variety of activities, including game drives in open<br />
4x4s and walking safaris. Mokoro trips are also a<br />
highlight and boat trips to Gadikwe Island heronry<br />
can be enjoyed during the nesting season.<br />
Dining at Shinde Camp<br />
Duba Plains Camp<br />
DUBA PLAINS, DUBA RESERVE,<br />
NORTHERN OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />
The focus at Duba is game drives which follow<br />
the battle between the huge resident buffalo herd<br />
and prides of lion. The guides know every lion<br />
and can tell you about them in depth. This is an<br />
excellent camp for photographers. The camp has<br />
six tents situated on a shady woodland island,<br />
each with lovely views over the floodplains. The<br />
main boma is raised up on stilts and houses a<br />
small lounge and bar area. The adjoining dining<br />
area has a communal dining table and there’s<br />
usually a sociable and lively atmosphere at meals.<br />
At night the camp comes alive with noises of fruit<br />
bats, cicadas and reed-frogs.
Hyena pup<br />
Waterlily flower<br />
Malachite kingfisher<br />
Cheetah in the Vumbura Concession<br />
LITTLE VUMBURA,<br />
VUMBURA RESERVE, NORTHERN<br />
OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />
On a tiny island surrounded by floodplains, Little<br />
Vumbura is a real hideaway accessed by boat<br />
through channels flanked by towering papyrus.<br />
When in camp, shaded by wild date palms and<br />
overhung with long creepers, you feel as though<br />
you are tucked away in a jungle. There are seven<br />
tents, a central lounge and a small pool, all<br />
surrounded by bush.<br />
At night the whole camp reverberates with the<br />
sound of reed frogs and hippos. The outdoor<br />
deck is a wonderful place in which to sit around<br />
the fire and gaze up at the stars. Activities at Little<br />
Vumbura include game drives in the dry land<br />
areas and mokoro excursions which offer<br />
particularly good birding. Night drives allow you<br />
to spot bushbabies, honeybadgers and leopard.<br />
Dusk at Little Vumbura<br />
Bathtub in Kwara’s honeymoon suite<br />
KWARA CAMP, KWARA RESERVE,<br />
NORTHERN OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />
Kwara is a compact camp with eight tents situated<br />
on a small palm island. Each tent is raised on a<br />
wooden platform and has a deck at the front and<br />
en suite bathroom with outdoor shower to the<br />
rear. The main lodge is under thatch and houses<br />
a dining room, lounge and bar. There is always a<br />
camp fire lit at night. This area has good game<br />
densities and the lodge offers lots of activities<br />
from power boat trips into the Delta to mokoro<br />
trips along tranquil waterways. These adventures<br />
are in addition to the land based activities which<br />
include game drives and nature walks.<br />
CAMP OKUTI, MOREMI<br />
GAME RESERVE, NORTHERN<br />
OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />
Camp Okuti is positioned under shady trees at<br />
the edge of Xakanaxa Lagoon and within close<br />
range of shallow floodplains, papyrus swamp and<br />
dense riverine forest. The design of the seven<br />
chalets is unique, with large domed reed roofs,<br />
polished wooden floors with cowhide mats and<br />
local art on the walls. The main area is built of<br />
mud and thatch and has the feel of a traditional<br />
house from the outside but is luxuriously kitted<br />
out on the inside. There is a large mahogany<br />
dining table and fire deck with safari chairs<br />
allowing you ample opportunity to swap stories<br />
with fellow guests. A telescope is set up for<br />
viewing birds and distant game. Guests can enjoy<br />
a variety of activities from Okuti including game<br />
drives, boat and mokoro trips.<br />
A room at Camp Okuti<br />
www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 33
Game viewing from Chitabe Lediba Camp<br />
The Southern Okavango<br />
Fringes<br />
The southern fringes of the Okavango are home<br />
to some large islands with rich game densities.<br />
Huge elephant bulls trundle through pink hippo<br />
grass to thick forests of real fan palms. Here they<br />
shake the trees, trunks raised, until palm nuts rain<br />
down. Troops of baboon pick through the<br />
leftovers, yellow mongoose run under wild sage<br />
bushes and sometimes in the first light of morning<br />
you can see honey-badgers darting into the tall<br />
grass. Many grazers such as tsessebe, impala,<br />
zebra and buffalo can be found on the open<br />
plains whilst giraffe and kudu are found on the<br />
forest fringes.<br />
Though lion are often seen, it is the leopard and<br />
wild dog that hold perhaps the greatest attraction.<br />
Leopard sightings are frequent, with some relaxed<br />
cats happy to be followed by flurries of squawking<br />
guineafowl and quiet vehicles. When the<br />
floodwaters arrive in June the Santantadibe River<br />
swells and spills over into floodplains that are<br />
quickly carpeted with water gentians and<br />
colonised by frogs to the delight of the saddle<br />
billed storks. Lechwe fly through the water, spray<br />
in their wake and fish eagles screech from the<br />
trees. The southern fringes of the Delta are<br />
protected by the Moremi Game Reserve as well<br />
as the Chitabe and Stanley’s private reserves,<br />
where game drives are the main focus.<br />
34<br />
CHITABE LEDIBA CAMP,<br />
CHITABE RESERVE, SOUTHERN<br />
OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />
Chitabe Lediba Camp is located on a palm island<br />
overlooking a natural waterhole. Sandy paths lead<br />
through the trees to five large tents with en suite<br />
bathrooms and shady verandas with views of the<br />
savannah. The main dining and bar area overlooks<br />
the waterhole where elephant come regularly to<br />
drink. Meals are always social and fun at Chitabe<br />
with many being taken outdoors under the stars.<br />
During the day game drives offer superb<br />
photographic opportunities and walks are exciting.<br />
With a small plunge pool for the heat of the day<br />
the camp has everything you need.<br />
Sandibe Safari Lodge<br />
Chitabe Lediba Camp<br />
SANDIBE SAFARI LODGE,<br />
CHITABE RESERVE, SOUTHERN<br />
OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />
Sandibe Camp has been built in a grove of<br />
jackalberry, fig tree and ilala palms. In the main<br />
boma, thick tree branches extend through the<br />
walls, and tree trunks hold up the high thatched<br />
roof. It’s not unusual to look up from lunch and<br />
find an inquisitive baboon high above having a<br />
good look at you, while fruit bats roost up in the<br />
beams in the evenings. Paths meander through<br />
the forest to eight clay and thatch chalets, each<br />
with a North African feel. Outside each chalet,<br />
steps lead up to a raised deck with table and<br />
chairs and views of the Santantadibe River and<br />
floodplains. At night the plains light up with<br />
thousands of flickering fireflies.
Zebra in the Linyanti region<br />
Spotted hyena on a kill<br />
Observing white backed vultures<br />
The Linyanti Wetlands<br />
The Linyanti Wetlands lie northeast of the<br />
Okavango Delta, on the border with Namibia’s<br />
Caprivi Strip. This huge wilderness area stretches<br />
from the winding Linyanti River and encompasses<br />
papyrus swamps, shady forests and open<br />
grasslands fragrant with wild sage. Such diverse<br />
habitats support varied and prolific game. The<br />
region is superb for elephant, at their most<br />
spectacular along the Linyanti River, where<br />
breeding herds in their hundreds can frequently<br />
be seen crossing.<br />
There are some pretty drives along the<br />
floodplains where red lechwe, impala, zebra,<br />
waterbuck and giraffe can be found amongst a<br />
wealth of colourful birdlife including little beeeaters,<br />
glossy ibis and pinkbacked pelicans. Away<br />
Lebala Camp<br />
Lioness and cubs, Linyanti Wetlands<br />
from the river, forests of jackalberry and birdplum<br />
trees are alive with large troops of baboon.<br />
Roan, sable, kudu, impala and buffalo can be seen<br />
shading under apple-leaf trees and warthogs<br />
forage in the grass. Predators are ever-present,<br />
with large resident prides of lion, hyena, leopard<br />
and cheetah, and several packs of wild dog. The<br />
Linyanti Wetlands are protected by three of<br />
Botswana’s most exciting reserves. The Kwando<br />
Reserve stretches along the northern reach of the<br />
Linyanti River and is renowned for its large packs<br />
of wild dog. The Selinda Reserve stretches<br />
towards the Delta and has cheetah as well as lion<br />
that hunt hippo. The Linyanti Reserve has the<br />
Savute Channel running through it and is known<br />
for large herds of elephant as well as predators.<br />
LEBALA CAMP, KWANDO<br />
RESERVE, LINYANTI WETLANDS<br />
Lebala is located on a peninsula of land jutting<br />
into the Linyanti marshes and is accessed by a<br />
small wooden bridge leading over a permanent<br />
channel of water. The attractive main boma is<br />
raised up on stilts above the waters and has a<br />
large lounge area with a high ceiling and views<br />
of floodplains. Game often grazes near camp,<br />
especially in the dry season. Lebala’s eight large<br />
tents are connected by sandy paths and set<br />
amongst the shady riverine trees. Each has an<br />
outdoor shower to the rear of the tent and a<br />
large sunny veranda at the front. Activities focus<br />
on day and night game drives in open 4x4s.<br />
Duma Tau<br />
DUMA TAU, LINYANTI RESERVE,<br />
LINYANTI WETLANDS<br />
This camp is built up on high decks so that hippo<br />
can pass undisturbed underneath. Wooden<br />
walkways (which squirrels run along) lead to ten<br />
thatch and canvas rooms where there are<br />
thoughtful touches such as wildlife books, flowers,<br />
and animal check lists. The main lodge is an open<br />
sided tented structure with squishy sofas set by<br />
the wooden bar and a communal dining room.<br />
A sandy area beneath the trees has a camp fire<br />
which is lit every night when guests return from<br />
game drives. The numerous activities include<br />
morning and afternoon game drives, boat trips in<br />
the middle of the day, walks and a choice of two<br />
hides to watch game from.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 35
Mobile camping safaris<br />
Khwai Adventurer Camp<br />
If lying in bed watching the tent shake because<br />
an elephant is scratching itself on it, or waking<br />
up to the sound of hyena eating a saucepan<br />
appeals to you, then you are probably the<br />
perfect candidate for a mobile camping safari.<br />
Not for the faint-hearted, mobile camping safaris<br />
are a ‘back-to-basics’ way of exploring Africa.<br />
As safari camps get ever more luxurious, we<br />
find that many travellers want to escape from<br />
the cut glass, fluffy towels and butler service and<br />
are keen to immerse themselves in the true<br />
spirit of safari. Leave behind the plush tents and<br />
get back to camping on the ground, dust in your<br />
hair and proper bush around you!<br />
A tent on a mobile camping safari.<br />
Lunch on a mobile camping safari<br />
Scheduled Departures<br />
We work closely with two mobile operators in<br />
Botswana who run scheduled trips across the<br />
country. There are a number of departure<br />
dates – usually a couple a week – thus offering<br />
flexibility to fit into your travel dates. The<br />
mobile safaris as a general rule start in Maun and<br />
explore the Okavango Delta, Linyanti Wetlands<br />
and Chobe National Park, ending at Livingstone<br />
from where you can enjoy the Victoria Falls.<br />
Similar trips run in the opposite direction. Trips<br />
tend to last for around ten days, and it is easy<br />
to add on more time either at the start or<br />
end of your trip.<br />
Guides, Vehicles & Camp Crew<br />
On a scheduled departure the group sizes are<br />
restricted to eight people. When driving from<br />
camp to camp or on game drives you will travel<br />
in a modified land cruiser with four rows of<br />
seats and open sides. Each trip is led by a<br />
professional guide and backed up by a full camp<br />
crew. The crew are the masters of the mobile<br />
camp, erecting tents in minutes, producing three<br />
course meals from a kitchen under an acacia<br />
tree and heating water for bucket showers over<br />
an open fire. They are incredibly good at looking<br />
after your every need, from a hot-chocolate<br />
outside your tent on a chilly morning to a glass<br />
of red wine around the campfire at night.<br />
Campfires are lit each night<br />
36
Watching elephant from a mokoro<br />
Hot water bucket shower<br />
Camping<br />
Each night you stay in a mobile tented camp in<br />
a private campsite. One of our favourite sites<br />
is under a huge jackalberry tree beside the<br />
Linyanti Lagoon. At night the sound of the frogs<br />
is deafening and you often have a hippo near<br />
your tent.<br />
Whilst wild, the mobile camps are by no means<br />
uncomfortable. A full camp crew builds the<br />
camp which consists of large dome tents with<br />
camp beds and duvets. A small bedside table<br />
gives space for your book and torch. Basic en<br />
suite facilities are provided with a canvas basin<br />
of water, en suite bush loo and bucket shower,<br />
which will be filled with hot water when you<br />
return from game drives. A word of warning<br />
though – don’t leave your sponge bag outside<br />
the tent as hyenas can be rather partial to soap<br />
and toothpaste!<br />
Private departures<br />
If you are a family or travelling in a group of four<br />
or more it is often both cost-effective and great<br />
fun to take a private mobile safari across the<br />
country. The beauty of this is that you can tailor<br />
the trip exactly to your interests, staying in<br />
private wilderness spots across Botswana. You<br />
will have a private guide and vehicle as well as<br />
camp crew to erect camp, cook and look after<br />
you. There is nothing quite like having a tiny<br />
camp on a palm island in the middle of the<br />
Okavango all to yourself.<br />
A walking safari<br />
Zebra on the floodplains<br />
A typical mobile<br />
camping safari<br />
Days 1-3<br />
Days 4-5<br />
Days 6-8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Fly from Maun to the Xigera Reserve,<br />
Central Okavango Delta for three<br />
nights. Game viewing on foot and<br />
by mokoro.<br />
Fly from the Xigera Reserve to the<br />
Moremi Game Reserve for two nights.<br />
Game viewing in open 4x4s.<br />
Game drive to the Linyanti Reserve for<br />
three nights. Further time on safari.<br />
Game drive to the Chobe River, boat<br />
cruise on the Chobe River. Afternoon<br />
drive to Livingstone for one night.<br />
Morning trip to Victoria Falls. Your<br />
safari ends at lunchtime for onward<br />
arrangements.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 37
Elephant in the Chobe River<br />
with herds of both seeing mammoth proportions.<br />
Elephant numbers are estimated at 40,000 to<br />
60,000, so you are constantly surrounded by<br />
these gentle giants. In the dry season, thousands<br />
line the banks and cross the Chobe River, and<br />
boat trips at this time provide excellent<br />
photographic opportunities.<br />
Crocodile on the banks of the Chobe<br />
The Chobe National Park<br />
Encompassing an impressive 10,700 square<br />
kilometres of wilderness, the Chobe National<br />
Park stretches from the tip of Northern Botswana<br />
to the fringes of the Okavango Delta. It has a<br />
wide range of distinctive landscapes, from the<br />
emerald floodplains of the Chobe River to the<br />
sweeping grasslands of the Savuti Marsh and the<br />
skeletal leadwood trees of the Savuti Channel.<br />
In a region with such varied environments and<br />
habitats, there is a magnificent array of wildlife.<br />
A profusion of palatable grass species attracts a<br />
variety of herbivores, including wildebeest,<br />
impala, kudu, waterbuck, giraffe and tsessebe.<br />
The puku is found here, as is the endemic<br />
Chobe bushbuck. Predator sightings are good,<br />
with leopard, cheetah, wild dog and large prides<br />
of lion that hunt elephant. From servals to<br />
side-striped jackals, the list is endless. Chobe is<br />
famous for its elephant and buffalo populations,<br />
38<br />
CHOBE UNDER CANVAS,<br />
CHOBE NATIONAL PARK<br />
Chobe Under Canvas is a semi-permanent camp<br />
with five spacious walk-in tents, each with en suite<br />
bathroom facilities. While the accommodation at<br />
the camp is fairly simple, the service, quality of<br />
safari guiding and standard of food are absolutely<br />
superb and equal to those found at any of<br />
Botswana’s more luxurious permanent lodges.<br />
The camp is ideal for those seeking a return to<br />
the more traditional safari without compromising<br />
on quality. However camping is an adventurous<br />
way to experience Botswana and is not<br />
recommended for the faint-hearted!<br />
Chobe Under Canvas<br />
The viewing deck at Muchenje<br />
MUCHENJE SAFARI LODGE,<br />
CHOBE NATIONAL PARK<br />
Muchenje Safari Lodge is perched high on the<br />
forested escarpment overlooking the plains of<br />
western Chobe. The lodge accommodates 22<br />
guests in 11 thatched chalets, all sited on the<br />
escarpment edge with unique views. There is a<br />
pool built amongst natural rock formations which<br />
provides a perfect setting for chilling out during<br />
the heat of the day. Activities at Muchenje include<br />
walking safaris where you can learn more about<br />
the bush and study the behaviour of animals,<br />
plants and insects. Game drives are rewarding and<br />
the lunchtime river cruises are good opportunities<br />
for watching elephant, hippo, crocodiles and birds.
Brown hyena and pups Watching meerkats in the Makgadikgadi Bushmen<br />
Flying over the Makgadikgadi Pans<br />
The Makgadikgadi Pans,<br />
Kalahari<br />
The Makgadikgadi Pans are a place like no other.<br />
Mile upon mile of shimmering white salt pan<br />
stretches endlessly to the horizon, fringed with<br />
coarse grasses blowing in the wind, ancient<br />
baobabs reaching to the sky and vultures soaring<br />
on the thermals. There are prehistoric beaches,<br />
Stone Age remains and salty whirlwinds spinning<br />
over cracked earth. The pans are the relics of<br />
Africa’s ‘super-lake’ that covered the Kalahari<br />
several million years ago, and are littered with the<br />
fossils of the changing ecosystems that followed.<br />
Nowadays, the wildlife is both hardy and highly<br />
nomadic. Meerkat, mongooses, brown hyena,<br />
aardvark and aardwolf are present all year round.<br />
Secretary birds, ostrich and korhaans step through<br />
the grass and bateleurs soar overhead. When the<br />
rains arrive, a dramatic change takes place. Pink<br />
clouds of flamingo come to feed, herds of zebra<br />
and wildebeest are found on the savannah and<br />
the sound of frogs fills the air. There are only a<br />
few camps in the Makgadikgadi, and whether you<br />
stay in the dry or rainy season they all offer an<br />
experience that is unique and unforgettable.<br />
The mess tent at Jack’s Camp<br />
JACK’S CAMP,<br />
MAKGADIKGADI PANS<br />
Jack’s Camp has nine eclectic tents located on a<br />
small palm island near the Pans. With Persian<br />
rugs, antique chests inlaid with brass, four-poster<br />
beds and panelled bathrooms, the camp is one<br />
of a kind. The main dining tent has antique glass<br />
cabinets full of stone tools and fossils, there are<br />
photos of Bushmen, silver jugs of iced lime juice,<br />
and a library of old books. Activities from Jack’s<br />
are led both by guides and researchers. There’s<br />
the chance to sit surrounded by meerkats, walk<br />
with the Bushmen, explore by quad bike and lie<br />
on a salt pan watching the stars.<br />
CAMP KALAHARI,<br />
MAKGADIKGADI PANS<br />
Camp Kalahari is nestled amongst the acacias and<br />
mokolwane palms of Brown Hyena Island, on the<br />
edge of the Makgadikgadi Pans. The camp offers<br />
an excellent Makgadikgadi experience for those<br />
who want a bit of adventure without sacrificing<br />
comfort and style. The six simple meru tents have<br />
comfy beds, crisp cotton sheets and hot water<br />
bottles in the winter. The lack of electricity means<br />
that the camp retains a rustic edge. Activities<br />
include walking with Bushman trackers, exploring<br />
the pans on quad bikes and visiting the famous<br />
Chapman’s Baobab. You can also meet the<br />
habituated meerkats and enjoy sleeping out<br />
under the stars.<br />
Camp Kalahari<br />
www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 39
Game viewing in the Kalahari<br />
The Central Kalahari<br />
Game Reserve<br />
The Central Kalahari Game Reserve is one of<br />
the world’s largest. It dominates the centre of<br />
Botswana and is Africa at its most remote and<br />
esoteric; a vast sand sheet punctuated by a few<br />
huge open plains, occasional salt pans, and fossil<br />
remains on ancient riverbeds. The Kalahari comes<br />
into its own during the rains from January to<br />
March. At this time the fresh grass attracts<br />
hundreds of migratory grazers such as springbok,<br />
zebra and wildebeest. Predators such as lion,<br />
cheetah, leopard and jackal follow. On rare<br />
occasions, wild dog and the secretive brown<br />
hyena are also observed.<br />
Birdlife is varied, with the world’s heaviest flying<br />
bird, the kori bustard, frequently spotted and the<br />
amusingly coiffed secretary birds regularly seen<br />
strutting across the plains. Later in the year the<br />
animals tend to move away from the open valley<br />
Tau Pan Camp<br />
40<br />
Black backed jackals<br />
areas, making game viewing more challenging.<br />
However, it is at this time of year that you<br />
experience the true wilderness of the Central<br />
Kalahari, with other visitors few and far between.<br />
TAU PAN CAMP, CENTRAL<br />
KALAHARI GAME RESERVE<br />
Tau Pan Camp has eight custom built desert<br />
chalets, constructed under thatch in order to<br />
remain cool even during the heat of the day. The<br />
rooms are large and spacious, positioned on a<br />
ridge so that they catch the breeze and have<br />
magnificent views down to the man-made<br />
waterhole and Tau Pan beyond. Each room<br />
comes with either a twin or double bed, an<br />
indoor and outdoor shower and outside deck<br />
with comfy chairs. The camp also has a small<br />
swimming pool and a lovely central lodge area<br />
where you will generally sit down with your<br />
fellow guests and enjoy communal dining at the<br />
end of an adventurous day.<br />
KALAHARI PLAINS CAMP,<br />
CENTRAL KALAHARI GAME RESERVE<br />
Kalahari Plains Camp is set in the remote<br />
northern sector of the Central Kalahari Game<br />
Reserve. There are ten en suite tents with<br />
outstanding views across open grassy plains,<br />
vegetated dunes and seasonal pans. Each tent is<br />
comfortably furnished inside and has a unique<br />
rooftop sleeping platform. With no light pollution<br />
the night skies in the Kalahari are stunning, so you<br />
can lie in a cosy bed looking at the stars of the<br />
Southern Cross and Milky Way above you.<br />
Kalahari Plains Camp<br />
Gemsbok on the plains
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Botswana specialists to<br />
start planning your itinerary.<br />
NAMIBIA<br />
Shinde<br />
Reserve<br />
Nxabega<br />
Reserve<br />
Kasane Livingstone<br />
Victoria Falls<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
Moremi Game Reserve<br />
Maun<br />
NAMIBIA<br />
Kwara<br />
Reserve<br />
Kwando Reserve<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
Maun<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 530<br />
BOTSWANA<br />
Getting around<br />
Central Kalahari Game Reserve<br />
There are two main ways to get around<br />
Botswana; flying by light aircraft or travelling in a<br />
4x4 on a mobile safari. There are a number of<br />
light aircraft flights originating in Maun and Kasane<br />
and zipping to, from and between Botswana’s<br />
camps. Flights between camps tend to be in the<br />
middle of the day meaning you can enjoy an early<br />
morning game drive, fly to your next camp and<br />
be there in time for a cup of tea and evening<br />
game drive. If flying is not your thing then you can<br />
either take road transfers to the more accessible<br />
parks such as Chobe or take a private or shared<br />
mobile safari. These use 4x4s to navigate<br />
Botswana’s sandy tracks and each journey is a<br />
game drive in itself. Botswana is easy to combine<br />
with a trip to the Victoria Falls.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Botswana has a subtropical desert climate<br />
characterised by low rainfall and wide<br />
temperature fluctuations between day and night.<br />
It has a dry season from May to October and a<br />
rainy season from November to April. When<br />
planning a trip to the Okavango Delta, flood<br />
levels must be considered. The floods tend to<br />
arrive in June creating flooded plains, deeper<br />
lagoons and hundreds of channels. The waters<br />
recede around November and more dry land is<br />
exposed. These affect some boating activities at<br />
camps. Our specialists can advise you on the best<br />
camps to go to during the different seasons of the<br />
year.<br />
Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 13.5 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Botswana on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Classic Okavango<br />
This trip is ideal for those who want to enjoy<br />
some of Africa’s best game viewing. You will have<br />
the chance to stay deep within the Okavango<br />
Delta as well as on its fringes. Mokoro trips are<br />
the highlight of the Central Okavango as you can<br />
glide down peaceful channels and into lagoons.<br />
The dry land area of the Delta fringes provide a<br />
total contrast and you’ll enjoy drives in search of<br />
big game. Lion, elephant and buffalo abound, as do<br />
many other species. The trip ends with a couple<br />
of nights at Victoria Falls, one of the natural<br />
wonders of the world and a perfect end to an<br />
exciting safari.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-3<br />
Days 4-5<br />
Days 6-8<br />
Days 9-10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Fly from the UK to Maun via<br />
Johannesburg.<br />
Arrive in Maun and fly to the<br />
Northern Fringes of the Okavango<br />
Delta for two nights at Camp Okuti.<br />
Enjoy game drives, boat and<br />
mokoro trips.<br />
Fly to the Nxabega Reserve for two<br />
nights at Kanana Camp. Enjoy game<br />
drives and boat trips.<br />
Fly to the Shinde Reserve for three<br />
nights at Shinde Camp. Further time<br />
on safari.<br />
Light aircraft flight to Livingstone for<br />
two nights at Tongabezi Lodge.<br />
Explore the Victoria Falls, visit local<br />
village and take boat trips on the<br />
Zambezi River.<br />
Fly from Livingstone to the UK via<br />
Johannesburg.<br />
Arrive in the UK in the early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
A week on the beach is a great way to end a<br />
safari, and Botswana combines well with the<br />
Quirimba Archipelago in Northern Mozambique.<br />
This string of coral islands has hidden coves and<br />
soft sandy beaches where green turtles nest. You<br />
could stay on a private island with nothing more<br />
to do than relax on the sand or could choose to<br />
explore Ibo Island and wander in its ruined Swahili<br />
city. With just a handful of characterful lodges and<br />
excellent seafood cuisine, these islands are ideal<br />
for a week of luxury and total relaxation.<br />
Emerald Season Explorer<br />
This trip is tailored to be at its best during<br />
Botswana’s green season from November through<br />
to March. It starts in the Central Kalahari which<br />
comes to life at this time of year with zebra<br />
migrating into the area, followed by lion, hyena and<br />
leopard. From here you head into the Delta to an<br />
area of water and dry land. You can explore rivers<br />
and lagoons by boat and the plains in open 4x4s.<br />
The trip ends in the Linyanti region, an area<br />
renowned for large elephant herds and packs of<br />
wild dog. All the camps have been chosen for their<br />
excellent guides, meaning that you will get the<br />
absolute maximum out of your safari.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-4<br />
Days 5-7<br />
Days 8-10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Fly from the UK to Maun via<br />
Johannesburg.<br />
Arrive in Maun and fly to the Central<br />
Kalahari Game Reserve for three<br />
nights at Tau Camp. Enjoy game<br />
drives and walking safaris.<br />
Fly to the Kwara Reserve for three<br />
nights at Kwara Camp. Further time<br />
on safari.<br />
Fly to the Kwando Reserve for three<br />
nights at Lebala Camp. Enjoy game<br />
viewing in open 4x4s.<br />
Fly to Maun and fly to the UK via<br />
Johannesburg.<br />
Arrive in the UK in the early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
A good way to start a trip to Botswana is with<br />
a few nights at Victoria Falls. After a long<br />
international flight there is nothing nicer than<br />
arriving in Livingstone and going straight to a<br />
small lodge on the banks of the Zambezi River.<br />
By lunchtime you can be enjoying a meal with the<br />
sounds of the hippos in the river. You can enjoy<br />
sunset boat trips, a morning visit to the Victoria<br />
Falls and perhaps even take a picnic to an island in<br />
the middle of the river. After a couple of nights of<br />
real relaxation you can head off, fully refreshed,<br />
for your safari.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 41
Zambia<br />
Chattering and throwing palmnuts onto<br />
the roof of your cottage, the monkeys<br />
start your day before the sun does. Emerging<br />
into the misty morning, a cup of coffee in<br />
hand, you watch as the sun rises over a<br />
broad snaking river. A breeding herd of<br />
elephant soundlessly descends the dusty bank<br />
to drink. The sun turns the glassy water<br />
pink, crocodiles stir and a fish eagle’s screech<br />
pierces the air. Welcome to Zambia – you<br />
have arrived in the wild heart of Africa.<br />
Zambia is the home of the walking safari,<br />
and its prolific game is especially<br />
exhilarating when encountered on foot.<br />
Elephant, lion, wild dog, spotted hyena,<br />
giraffe and puku are just some of the game<br />
you will see. Beware: once you’ve approached<br />
a hundred-strong herd of buffalo on foot,<br />
game-viewing from a vehicle may never<br />
give quite the same thrill. At night there are<br />
drives to search for leopard, the spotlight<br />
seeking the reflection of feline eyes in the<br />
undergrowth. From the tree-climbing lions<br />
of the Busanga Plains to the hundred-strong<br />
hippo pods of the South Luangwa, Zambia<br />
is untamed, little-explored and as wild as<br />
it has ever been.<br />
42
<strong>Audley</strong> in Zambia<br />
4<br />
5<br />
6<br />
3<br />
8<br />
7<br />
1<br />
2<br />
Zambia is one of our favourite countries<br />
in Southern Africa and our extensive<br />
knowledge of it comes from many years of<br />
travelling and operating safaris in the region.<br />
Our chosen camps are small and run by<br />
friendly and capable Zambians whose<br />
welcome is always warm. They are also<br />
delightfully close to nature – you might have<br />
a vervet monkey on the roof of your banda<br />
or a hippo grazing the lodge lawn at night.<br />
The country’s main game areas; the Luangwa<br />
Valley, Lower Zambezi and Kafue, are all<br />
reached by a good network of flights.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong>lers usually spend time in one or two<br />
areas to enjoy the contrasting scenery and<br />
game. There are several good trip extension<br />
options: a few days in Livingstone to see the<br />
Victoria Falls, or Lake Malawi is a short flight<br />
away. Zambia is easy to travel around but<br />
don’t let this persuade you that it is a tame<br />
country – it is one of the wildest in<br />
southern Africa.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Dusk at Busanga Bushcamp<br />
1 South Luangwa<br />
National Park<br />
The home of the walking safari<br />
and one of the best parks in<br />
Africa for leopard sightings.<br />
2<br />
North Luangwa<br />
National Park<br />
5 Busanga Plains<br />
Vast floodplains and the<br />
centrepiece of the Kafue. Home<br />
to plains game, tree climbing<br />
lions and cheetah.<br />
6 Livingstone<br />
Livingstone offers beautiful<br />
riverside lodges from which to<br />
see the Victoria Falls.<br />
7 Shiwa Ng’andu<br />
An incongruous stately home<br />
built in the remote north by<br />
eccentric Englishman Stewart<br />
Gore Browne.<br />
African hoopoe<br />
8 Bangweulu Wetlands<br />
Seasonally flooded grass plains<br />
that support a rich diversity of<br />
water birds. Shoebill stork and<br />
black lechwe are found here.<br />
In the national parks, a lodge and a handful<br />
of satellite bushcamps are usually owned by<br />
one safari operator, often a family business.<br />
The lodge will have around six rooms and is<br />
often a good place in which to start your<br />
safari. The satellite bush camps tend to be in<br />
remote areas and focus on walking safaris.<br />
Typically, they have three simple chalets<br />
made of reed and thatch. Overlooking rivers<br />
or waterholes, the dining room might be<br />
under a sausage tree and the open air<br />
bathrooms visited by a tree frog or two.<br />
All accommodation is unfenced so it’s<br />
common for wildlife to wander through<br />
camp. Livingstone’s beautiful riverside lodges<br />
are the ideal place in which to start or end<br />
a safari; from here you can enjoy Victoria<br />
Falls and fall asleep to the sound of hippos<br />
grunting in the water.<br />
A wild park with only two camps<br />
and numerous lion and buffalo,<br />
excellent for walking safaris.<br />
Find out more<br />
3 Lower Zambezi<br />
National Park<br />
One of Africa’s most scenic<br />
wildlife areas, concentrated<br />
around the Zambezi River. The<br />
park supports high densities of<br />
big game.<br />
4 Kafue National Park<br />
A huge wilderness encompassing<br />
rivers, picturesque woodland and<br />
open floodplains.<br />
Elephant in the Lower Zambezi<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Zambia, please<br />
see page 55.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Zambia<br />
specialists 01993 838 505<br />
Zambia 43
Watching elephant on a walking safari<br />
South Luangwa National Park<br />
The South Luangwa National Park is tropical, wild<br />
and beautiful. Situated in a wide rift valley, the<br />
park is flanked by the Muchinga escarpment to<br />
the west and the meandering Luangwa River to<br />
the east. Its lush and diverse vegetation is home<br />
to a wide variety of game and rich birdlife. Much<br />
of the game is found near the river, with herds of<br />
elephant and buffalo descending the banks to<br />
drink. Large crocodiles laze on sandbanks and at<br />
dusk hundreds of hippo leave their pools and<br />
lumber up the banks to graze. Impala and puku<br />
are common and Thornicroft’s giraffe can be seen<br />
in the forests. Cookson’s wildebeest, Crawshay’s<br />
zebra, waterbuck, bushbuck, grysbok and oribi are<br />
also found. Predators abound, with lion and<br />
spotted hyena common, while the leopards are<br />
always a highlight. Finally, there are over 400<br />
species of bird, with specialities including flocks of<br />
crowned cranes, colonies of carmine bee-eaters<br />
and a breeding colony of yellowbilled stork.<br />
Walking safaris are a speciality in the Luangwa.<br />
Accompanied by guides and scouts, walks explore<br />
the riverbanks and pretty dambos with their<br />
green Nile cabbage and crocodiles. There are<br />
also day and night drives in open 4x4s.<br />
KAPANI LODGE, SOUTH<br />
LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Kapani Lodge is a welcoming lodge located in a<br />
wildlife area adjacent to the South Luangwa<br />
National Park. It has six cottages overlooking a<br />
pretty lagoon which attracts a wide variety of<br />
game. With shady gardens, a small pool and<br />
chattering vervet monkeys, it’s a perfect start to<br />
a safari. Walks and drives in the park are led by<br />
experienced guides. Kapani works well in<br />
combination with a few of its satellite bushcamps<br />
(Luwi, Nsolo and Kakuli), which are located<br />
deep within the park.<br />
LUWI, NSOLO AND KAKULI<br />
BUSHCAMPS, SOUTH LUANGWA<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
These three bushcamps are situated along the<br />
Luwi and Luangwa rivers and you can ramble<br />
from one to the other on a guided walk. Luwi is<br />
tiny and delightful, with four simple reed rooms<br />
under mahogany trees. Nsolo has beautiful raised<br />
chalets with polished wooden floors and open<br />
air bathrooms. Finally, Kakuli overlooks the<br />
confluence of the Luwi and Luangwa rivers and<br />
a noisy pod of hippos in the water below.<br />
Dining at Nsolo Bushcamp<br />
44<br />
MCHENJA BUSHCAMP, SOUTH<br />
LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Mchenja Bushcamp stands in an ancient ebony<br />
grove – a favourite of baboons – on the banks<br />
of the Luangwa. It is one of the most picturesque<br />
sites in the park for a camp. There are four<br />
spacious tents, with polished wooden floors, large<br />
decks and en suite bathrooms. Activities from<br />
camp include walking safaris and game drives.
Young male lion in the Luangwa<br />
Watching puku on a game drive<br />
Leopard in the South Luangwa<br />
CHAMILANDU BUSHCAMP,<br />
SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Chamilandu is situated in a remote spot on the<br />
Luangwa River. The décor of the two-metre<br />
high tree house chalets is a tasteful blend of<br />
wrought iron and brass. Open to a 180° vista,<br />
the front of each tree house chalet provides the<br />
frame for all of the Luangwa Valley’s wildlife, and<br />
the four poster beds enjoy a bird’s eye view over<br />
the waters of the Luangwa River. A series of<br />
seven ox-bow lagoons around Chamilandu yield<br />
diverse habitats and attract abundant wildlife.<br />
This is a wonderful place to explore both on<br />
foot and in 4x4s.<br />
KAPAMBA BUSHCAMP, SOUTH<br />
LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Kapamba Bushcamp is a beautiful camp with<br />
views over the Kapamba River. There are four<br />
stone and thatch chalets, which are open on one<br />
side allowing you to step out into the bush from<br />
your bedroom. Each chalet has an en suite<br />
bathroom with large tub. At night your bathroom<br />
is sometimes shared by a couple of small frogs,<br />
who will sit and watch you clean your teeth!<br />
There is a large deck in the centre of camp where<br />
you can sit and enjoy breakfast in the sun and<br />
campfires in the evening.<br />
Chamilandu Bushcamp<br />
CHINDENI BUSHCAMP, SOUTH<br />
LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Chindeni has one of the most stunning locations<br />
in the South Luangwa, nestled on the apex of a<br />
permanent oxbow lagoon in the shadow of the<br />
magnificent Nchindeni Hills. Watching the<br />
sunrise over the hills in the morning is a<br />
wonderful way to start the day. Sitting on<br />
wooden decking, Chindeni’s four en suite tents<br />
have raised verandas, ideal platforms from which<br />
to view the resident game. Chindeni is only six<br />
kilometres from one of its sister camps,<br />
Bilimungwe, so you can enjoy an early morning<br />
walk between the two.<br />
KUYENDA BUSHCAMP, SOUTH<br />
LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Kuyenda sits on the banks of the Manzi River.<br />
The accommodation consists of three rondavels<br />
made entirely of local material – reed, thatch and<br />
wood. The chalets are rustic but comfortable and<br />
offer an authentic bush home. En suite bathrooms<br />
have bucket showers and guests can order hot<br />
water in advance – this is a true safari experience.<br />
Kuyenda is in a good walking area and some<br />
walks are guided by Phil Berry, who has<br />
unmatched knowledge of the Luangwa Valley,<br />
having spent the last 30 years here.<br />
Kapamba Bushcamp<br />
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Lioness beside the Luangwa River<br />
TAFIKA CAMP, SOUTH LUANGWA<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Tafika Camp stands on high banks above the<br />
Luangwa River. Owned by John and Carol<br />
Coppinger, it prides itself on having some of the<br />
most experienced guides in the park. The camp<br />
itself is comfortable, with five large bungalows.<br />
Once across the river, you are in a pristine wildlife<br />
area of the park where there are no roads or<br />
other camps, so it is well suited to walking safaris.<br />
John owns a microlight and will take guests up<br />
into the air at dawn. Skimming low over the<br />
Luangwa River and watching crocodile splash into<br />
the water is an exhilarating experience. Tafika<br />
combines well with a walking safari to its satellite<br />
bushcamps, Chikoko and Crocodile.<br />
LION CAMP, SOUTH LUANGWA<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Lion Camp is located in an area away from other<br />
camps so guests enjoy a private and wild safari<br />
experience. The camp overlooks a lagoon and is<br />
unfenced so it is not unusual for antelope,<br />
elephant and hippo to wander through the camp<br />
during the day. Linked by raised wooden<br />
walkways are nine luxurious canvas and thatch<br />
chalets. The centre of camp has a large deck<br />
where dinner is often eaten under the stars. It is<br />
one of the few camps in the park to have a small<br />
pool, very welcome in the hot summer months.<br />
A chalet at Tafika<br />
NKWALI CAMP, SOUTH<br />
LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Nkwali Camp is located in an area of ebony<br />
woodland and open grass plains. Elephant often<br />
cross the Luangwa River near to the lodge and<br />
crocodiles can be seen lazing on the sandbanks.<br />
Nkwali has six luxurious chalets overlooking the<br />
river and a large bar built around an ebony tree.<br />
Dining is often outside under a tree, and<br />
sometimes on a sandbank in the middle of the<br />
river! Nkwali combines well with its sister camps<br />
Tena Tena and Nsefu.<br />
Mobile walking safaris<br />
Zambia is renowned for its walking<br />
safaris, which were pioneered in the<br />
Luangwa Valley. There are two ways to<br />
enjoy walking safaris – either on morning<br />
and afternoon rambles out and back to<br />
the same camp or on a three or four<br />
day dedicated walking trail.<br />
One of our favourite places to start a<br />
three day walking trail is Tafika Camp.<br />
On a typical trail you would set out<br />
from Tafika for a morning’s walk through<br />
a pristine wilderness area to the first<br />
camp, Crocodile Camp, only accessible<br />
on foot. A day or so can be spent at<br />
Crocodile before taking a morning walk<br />
to Chikoko Bushcamp. After a couple of<br />
nights at Chikoko, you can then enjoy a<br />
walk back to Tafika.<br />
The beauty of this trail is that it can be<br />
tailored to your interests and pace,<br />
whether you enjoy long or short walks,<br />
or a mixture of both. The camps are<br />
delightful with simple reed and thatch<br />
chalets and hot bucket showers. You will<br />
dine under sausage trees, shower under<br />
the stars and sit around campfires.<br />
46<br />
The campfire at Lion Camp
Lion pride<br />
Viewing buffalo on a walking safari<br />
Carmine bee-eaters<br />
North Luangwa National Park<br />
The North Luangwa is a wild park with virtually<br />
no roads and thus the focus is on walking safaris.<br />
The small Mwaleshi River runs through the park,<br />
with clear shallow waters and low banks, perfect<br />
for rambling along. Game gravitates towards the<br />
river, particularly in the dry season when it is<br />
common to see buffalo, lion and hyena in healthy<br />
numbers by the water. There are some<br />
particularly pretty dambos covered in brilliant<br />
Nile cabbage with a hippo or two only visible by<br />
their flickering ears. A short flight from the South<br />
Luangwa, we recommend adding this park onto<br />
the end of a safari there and suggest that you<br />
stay at least four days to fully explore this<br />
peaceful wilderness.<br />
Walking along the Mwaleshi River<br />
MWALESHI CAMP, NORTH<br />
LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Mwaleshi Camp is one of our favourite camps in<br />
Africa. Taking a maximum of six guests, its reed<br />
chalets overlook the Mwaleshi River. Early<br />
mornings and evenings are spent walking along<br />
the banks of the river, looking at everything from<br />
elephant-shrew tracks to lions, determined dung<br />
beetles to exquisite seed pods. In the heat of the<br />
day it is possible to paddle in the clear, shallow<br />
river in front of camp, which has tiny silver fish<br />
but apparently no crocodiles!<br />
Shiwa Ng’andu House<br />
Shiwa Ng’andu<br />
Shiwa Ng’andu is an old English manor<br />
house, built deep in the African bush.<br />
A flight from the South Luangwa, it is<br />
remote but well worth making the<br />
journey for. Perfect avenues of<br />
eucalyptus lead to a graceful stately<br />
home with sweeping staircases, panelled<br />
libraries, Persian rugs, muskets, chests<br />
and a clock tower topping the slate tiled<br />
roof. Built by Sir Stewart Gore Browne<br />
in the early 20th century and brought to<br />
public attention by Christina Lamb’s<br />
book ‘The Africa House’, it is steeped in<br />
history and a living memorial to the life<br />
and work of Sir Stewart. A stay here<br />
amply rewards the intrepid traveller and<br />
could not provide more of a contrast<br />
with Zambia’s safari camps.<br />
Crawshay’s zebra<br />
Sundown at Mwaleshi<br />
www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 47
Observing wild dog on a game drive<br />
The Lower Zambezi<br />
National Park<br />
Once over the Zambezi escarpment, your pilot<br />
will begin to lower the aeroplane and the vast rift<br />
valley of the Lower Zambezi will unfold before<br />
you, with curving oxbow lagoons and the sandy<br />
waters of the great Zambezi River. Pods of hippo<br />
litter the water, clumped herds of buffalo can be<br />
seen on the floodplains, and elephant move, ears<br />
flapping and trunks up, through the trees and<br />
away from the sound of the plane. With its<br />
floodplains, grasslands and tall forests, the Lower<br />
Zambezi Valley supports fantastic game densities.<br />
Impala are everywhere and kudu, eland,<br />
waterbuck, zebra and wildebeest are also<br />
common. Elephant are often seen swimming the<br />
Zambezi River to feed on the grassy islands<br />
where buffalo graze. The sandy river banks are<br />
home to iridescent carmine bee-eater colonies<br />
while kingfishers and African skimmers flit above<br />
Breakfast at Chongwe River Camp<br />
48<br />
the waters. Predators include leopard, large prides<br />
of lion and packs of wild dog. From walking safaris<br />
to drives, boating and fishing, the Zambezi has so<br />
much to offer that we recommend a stay of at<br />
least three days to explore it fully.<br />
CHONGWE RIVER CAMP,<br />
LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK<br />
Chongwe River Camp is set under a canopy of<br />
winterthorn acacias on the confluence of the<br />
Chongwe and Zambezi Rivers. The nine tents<br />
all face the river and are cool and comfortable.<br />
A pod of hippos occupy the river in front of the<br />
lodge and crocodiles often laze on the opposite<br />
riverbank alongside storks, herons and geese.<br />
Activities from camp include game drives, walking<br />
safaris, boat trips, canoeing and tiger fishing.<br />
SAUSAGE TREE CAMP,<br />
LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK<br />
Sausage Tree Camp is a luxurious camp perched<br />
on a high sandy bank where bee-eaters nest.<br />
There are seven stylish tents which have large<br />
beds, antique telephones (the network extends<br />
as far as the bar) and open air bathrooms.<br />
There is an airy living room with lots of books<br />
and a dining room where excellent meals are<br />
served. Activities from camp include game drives,<br />
walking safaris and boat trips and Sausage Tree<br />
also operates a canoe trail up the Zambezi River.<br />
Canoeing by day and sleeping on islands by night<br />
is an exciting way to experience the wildlife.<br />
The honeymoon suite at Sausage Tree Camp<br />
OLD MONDORO, LOWER ZAMBEZI<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Old Mondoro is small and simple, surrounded by<br />
good walking country, making it the ideal camp<br />
from which to enjoy walks as well as game drives.<br />
There are four chalets with double beds, en suite<br />
bathrooms and timber decks outside. At night,<br />
lanterns lead from the chalets to the dining room,<br />
where you can sit around the fire and discuss the<br />
day’s events. Set deep in the park, the camp is<br />
surrounded by excellent game densities, making<br />
drives, walks and boat trips very rewarding.<br />
Old Mondoro
Waterbuck in Mana Pools National Park<br />
Young leopard<br />
Canoe safari in Mana Pools<br />
The pool at Rukomechi Camp<br />
Mana Pools, Zimbabwe<br />
Directly across the river from the Lower Zambezi<br />
National Park is Mana Pools in Zimbabwe.<br />
Reached by a three hour road and boat transfer<br />
from Lusaka or via a short flight, this is a great<br />
alternative to a safari in the Lower Zambezi. In its<br />
heyday, Mana was one of the most sought after<br />
and exclusive parks in Zimbabwe, and as few<br />
visitors have travelled there in the last ten years,<br />
the park remains unchanged. The presence of<br />
scouts and rangers has meant that it has been<br />
unaffected by poaching, and game densities are<br />
as high as they’ve ever been. Visitors are now<br />
returning to the park, accessing it from the<br />
Zambian side and enjoying one of Southern<br />
Africa’s premier wildlife destinations, with the<br />
added bonus of having to share it with few<br />
other visitors.<br />
Mana Pools covers 2,000 square kilometres of<br />
total wilderness, much of it with no roads, so it is<br />
ideal for exploration on foot. This stretch of the<br />
Zambezi River is famous for its four pools: Main,<br />
Chine, Long and Chisambuk, which are remnants<br />
of channels of the river which stopped flowing<br />
years ago. These, and smaller seasonal pools<br />
dotted further inland, hold water all year round,<br />
drawing a wide variety of game. The area is<br />
renowned for having large numbers of elephant,<br />
buffalo, hippo and eland. Predators such as lion,<br />
leopard and wild dog are regularly sighted and the<br />
birdlife is superb. There are only a couple of small<br />
camps in the park as well as a number of guided<br />
canoe trails. It is an excellent addition to a trip to<br />
Zambia and suited to those looking for a pure<br />
safari experience.<br />
Tents on a Mana canoe trail<br />
Rukomechi Camp<br />
RUCKOMECHI CAMP,<br />
MANA POOLS<br />
Ruckomechi Camp sits in a grove of acacia and<br />
mahogany trees on the banks of the Zambezi<br />
River. There are ten spacious tents, all with<br />
double or twin beds and en suite bathrooms with<br />
hot showers. The central dining and lounge areas<br />
face the Zambezi escarpment and a separate<br />
deck has an infinity pool for the hot afternoons<br />
and a cushion-strewn star gazing deck for night.<br />
Activities from the camp include game drives,<br />
boat trips and walking safaris, although it is often<br />
unnecessary to leave the camp to see game, as<br />
elephant frequently wander in to snack on the<br />
fruit of the albida trees.<br />
MANA CANOE TRAIL,<br />
MANA POOLS<br />
This three night canoe trail explores one of the<br />
most beautiful stretches of the Zambezi River.<br />
The whole trail covers a distance of 65<br />
kilometres, and each day you’ll canoe a stretch<br />
of river before stopping for lunch on an island<br />
or sandbank. There is the chance to explore the<br />
park on foot in the afternoon before camping<br />
each night on the banks of the river. The trail is<br />
led by an experienced guide and support vehicles<br />
and staff set up camp each day on your arrival.<br />
It is an ideal trip for the fit and adventurous<br />
traveller who wants to encounter wildlife from<br />
close quarters.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 49
Dawn on the Busanga Plains<br />
zebra, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, blue wildebeest,<br />
oribi and sable antelope. Cheetah stalk through<br />
the stubbly grass and prides of lion relax along<br />
the branches of fig trees. With clouds of open<br />
billed storks overhead, you are surrounded by<br />
wildlife. This variety of environments can be<br />
explored on walking safaris, boat trips and day<br />
and night game drives.<br />
Lufupa River Lodge<br />
The Kafue National Park<br />
At over 22,000 square kilometres, the Kafue<br />
National Park is a huge magical wilderness. It has<br />
tropical rivers filled with hippo, vast floodplains<br />
with herds of grazers, and twisted fig trees among<br />
whose branches lions are found. With few<br />
visitors, it is wild and untamed. In the north, the<br />
Lufupa and Lunga Rivers twist and turn, and<br />
boating along these you will see the corrugated<br />
backs of crocodiles gliding silently under<br />
overhanging trees. Elephant come to the small<br />
sandy beaches to drink along with bushbuck,<br />
defassa waterbuck, eland and more. Deep in the<br />
park, the Busanga Plains are a highlight. Seasonal<br />
floodplains, these immense grasslands are only<br />
accessible from June to October. Here the new<br />
shoots attract large herds of puku, red lechwe,<br />
LUFUPA RIVER LODGE, KAFUE<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Situated on the banks of the Lunga River, this<br />
small lodge is welcoming and comfortable with<br />
twelve canvas chalets looking out onto the water.<br />
There’s a small pool and bar deck on stilts<br />
above the water – perfect for sundowners in<br />
the warm evenings. Lufupa offers a variety of<br />
activities including boat trips, walks, and day and<br />
night drives.<br />
BUSANGA BUSHCAMP, KAFUE<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Busanga Bushcamp sits on a fig tree island on the<br />
Busanga Plains. The four tented rooms have gauze<br />
netting walls permitting fabulous views over the<br />
Plains. There are en suite open air bathrooms<br />
which allow you to shower either with the sun<br />
beating down on your back or under the stars.<br />
Dining is under canvas and there’s always a<br />
campfire in the evenings. Activities focus on day<br />
and night drives on the Busanga Plains as well as<br />
hot air ballooning.<br />
Hot air ballooning over the Busanga Plains<br />
Hot air ballooning<br />
A fascinating way to experience the<br />
Busanga Plains is from the basket of a hot<br />
air balloon. You will take off before dawn<br />
and rise up into the air with the sun.<br />
The balloon will float where the wind<br />
takes it – over grasslands, fig tree islands,<br />
rivers and wetlands. Wildlife looks<br />
different when viewed from above –<br />
you can see birds roosting at the tops of<br />
trees, the patterns of herds on the plains<br />
and the backs of hippos and crocodiles in<br />
the water. Accompanied by the mist that<br />
often rises off the plains in the early<br />
morning, these trips are visually stunning<br />
and excellent for keen photographers.<br />
On landing, a champagne breakfast is<br />
served before a leisurely game drive<br />
back to camp.<br />
50
Zambia’s safari houses<br />
Elephant in front of the Luangwa House<br />
The concept of the safari house, now popular<br />
across Africa, was pioneered in Zambia. The<br />
country has a number of beautiful houses, all<br />
built in the middle of the bush, with spacious<br />
living areas, characterful bedrooms and<br />
luxurious bathrooms. On stepping out through<br />
the front door, however, you might encounter<br />
puku on the lawn or an elephant drinking from<br />
the swimming pool.<br />
These luxurious houses are booked exclusively<br />
and are ideal for small groups. Luangwa House<br />
and Robin’s House are located in the heart of<br />
the South Luangwa. Chongwe River House<br />
and Kigelia House are located in the Lower<br />
Zambezi and Tangala House is close to<br />
Livingstone, on the banks of the Zambezi River<br />
and near a rather noisy pod of hippos.<br />
The safari houses are ideal for families,<br />
which the Zambians welcome with open arms.<br />
The houses come complete with guides and<br />
activities that can be tailored to each specific<br />
family. Game drives can be enjoyed by<br />
parents and children together, or the children<br />
can enjoy their own special safari programme.<br />
There is a range of activities for young guests,<br />
from walking out to collect seed pods to<br />
tracking lessons. For younger children, the<br />
kitchen and gardens are a highlight and they<br />
can bake cookies, collect hens’ eggs and<br />
pick pineapples.<br />
Chongwe River House<br />
CHONGWE RIVER HOUSE,<br />
LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK<br />
Chongwe River House has a secluded setting<br />
on the banks of the Chongwe River. The house<br />
has furniture made from winterhorn trees and<br />
its ceiling contains pebbles from the Chongwe<br />
River. The four bedrooms have spectacular<br />
views, and the en suite bathrooms have taps<br />
carved from bone. Outside there is a small<br />
pool and the lawn is ideal for al fresco dining.<br />
LUANGWA HOUSE, SOUTH<br />
LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
The Luangwa House overlooks a seasonal<br />
lagoon, frequented by elephant and giraffe. It is<br />
built with ancient leadwood trees, stone and<br />
thatch. There are four bedrooms, two upstairs<br />
and two downstairs. The centre of the house is<br />
dominated by a stunning open plan living room<br />
with views out to the waterhole. Outside there<br />
is a plunge pool and a walkway out to a<br />
viewing deck above the waterhole. In the dry<br />
season this is a particularly exciting place to sit,<br />
as herds of elephant come to drink.<br />
ROBIN’S HOUSE, SOUTH<br />
LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Robin’s House is situated on the banks of the<br />
Luangwa River and shaded by ebony trees.<br />
Stone steps lead up into a cool central living<br />
room with squashy sofas and views of the<br />
river. The living room has two bedrooms<br />
leading off it, each with an en suite bathroom<br />
with shower and bathtub. A short walk away<br />
from the house there is a pool that is shared<br />
with nearby Nkwali Camp. The house comes<br />
with its own staff, including a private chef<br />
and a guide.<br />
Robin’s House<br />
A bedroom in Luangwa House<br />
www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 51
Victoria Falls<br />
Livingstone & Victoria Falls<br />
One of the natural wonders of the world,<br />
Victoria Falls is known as the ‘smoke that<br />
thunders’ in the local language. It is an apt name<br />
given the thundering roar that resounds as the<br />
sparkling Zambezi River pours great cascades of<br />
white water over the lip of the Falls. Walking<br />
along little paths to view this phenomenon of<br />
nature, you see trumpeter hornbills dart out from<br />
dripping trees to fly across the water. Vervet<br />
monkeys and baboons chatter and a rainbow<br />
forms across the spray when the sun comes out.<br />
There are excellent views from the Zambian side,<br />
where you can also cross Knife Edge Bridge to an<br />
island surrounded by water. Ten kilometres from<br />
the Victoria Falls, Livingstone town has sprung to<br />
life with lots of small guesthouses, lively markets<br />
and operators offering every possible activity<br />
from helicopter rides to exhilarating whitewater<br />
rafting trips and gentle boat cruises on the<br />
Zambezi. We recommend staying outside the<br />
A chalet at Waterberry<br />
52<br />
town in one of the quiet lodges on the Zambezi<br />
River, from where you can visit the Victoria Falls<br />
as well as go on sunset boat trips, walks and visits<br />
to village markets.<br />
TONGABEZI LODGE & SINDABEZI<br />
ISLAND CAMP, LIVINGSTONE<br />
Tongabezi is situated on the banks of the Zambezi<br />
River. Rooms are large with polished stone floors,<br />
cream fabrics and en suite bathrooms with<br />
Victorian baths and shining brass taps. There’s a<br />
pool built into the rocks and sunloungers in the<br />
shade. Tongabezi combines well with a stay at its<br />
sister camp, Sindabezi. Sitting on a little island in<br />
the middle of the river, Sindabezi is a tranquil spot<br />
with white fronted bee-eaters flitting from the<br />
trees. The rooms are luxurious and the welcome<br />
warm – it is one of our favourite camps in Zambia.<br />
WATERBERRY ZAMBEZI LODGE,<br />
LIVINGSTONE<br />
This pretty lodge is located on the banks of<br />
the Zambezi about 45 minutes’ drive from<br />
the Victoria Falls. There are seven thatched<br />
cottages overlooking either the river or gardens.<br />
A split-level main building houses a dining and<br />
lounge area and looks over the water. A great<br />
place to relax, Waterberry also offers a range of<br />
activities including a guided trip to the Victoria<br />
Falls, a sunset cruise on the river, and a particularly<br />
interesting visit to a nearby village with one of<br />
the local staff.<br />
A room at Sindabezi Island Camp<br />
TOKA LEYA, LIVINGSTONE<br />
Toka Leya has 15 canvas rooms on the banks of<br />
the Zambezi River. All rooms are connected by<br />
wooden walkways, allowing game to pass through<br />
the camp uninterrupted. The main lodge<br />
comprises of an open sided lounge with<br />
comfortable sofas and tables for private or<br />
communal dining. The bar has views onto the<br />
river, and there is a shady deck where you can<br />
enjoy lunch. The pool and small spa make this<br />
an ideal place to relax before or after a safari.<br />
Toka Leya
The Victoria Falls Hotel, Victoria Falls Town<br />
Malachite kingfisher<br />
Victoria Falls Town,<br />
Zimbabwe<br />
The small town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe is<br />
less than two kilometres south of the Zambezi<br />
River and the border to Zambia. Until<br />
Zimbabwe’s political problems surfaced, it was<br />
the place to stay to see the waterfalls and the<br />
town was buzzing and vibrant. Whilst the past<br />
few years saw troubled times for the country,<br />
Victoria Falls Town was one of the few areas<br />
that managed to retain a semblance of a tourism<br />
industry. Recently the town has begun to come<br />
to life again with hotels receiving refurbishments<br />
and new restaurants opening. The streets are<br />
now busy and everything from washing powder<br />
to wooden curios is readily available. The town<br />
has a number of hotels, including the famous<br />
Victoria Falls Hotel which was always, and still is,<br />
the place to have tea on the terrace. You can<br />
walk to the Falls from many of the hotels and<br />
enjoy a leisurely morning exploring the rainforest<br />
pathways with the backdrop of chattering<br />
monkeys. Easily reached from the parks in<br />
Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana, Victoria Falls<br />
Town is once again, a wonderful start or end<br />
to any safari.<br />
Dining at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge<br />
THE VICTORIA FALLS HOTEL,<br />
VICTORIA FALLS TOWN<br />
This historic hotel overlooks the Victoria Falls<br />
Bridge and the gorges below. Situated in acres<br />
of private garden, the charm and tranquil<br />
atmosphere has long been a favourite with<br />
visitors. A walk along the hotel’s pathway will<br />
bring guests out at the top of the gorge and<br />
provides views of the bridge. With colonial<br />
prints and antique furniture, history surrounds<br />
you at every turn. The colonial heritage extends<br />
into the 184 rooms and suites which all have<br />
four-poster or canopy beds. The hotel’s famous<br />
Stanley’s Terrace is the place to enjoy afternoon<br />
tea watching the spray rise up from the water.<br />
ILALA LODGE, VICTORIA<br />
FALLS TOWN<br />
Ilala Lodge enjoys a secluded location close to<br />
town. It is the nearest lodge to the Falls and from<br />
the gardens you can hear the roar of the water.<br />
The lodge borders the Victoria Falls National Park<br />
and it is common to see wildlife wandering across<br />
the lawn. A wide verandah wraps round the front<br />
of the hotel providing a shady area where you<br />
can relax and look out across the pretty gardens.<br />
There are 32 en suite rooms, a pool with a<br />
thatched bar area and a good restaurant that is<br />
popular with hotel residents and locals alike.<br />
VICTORIA FALLS SAFARI LODGE,<br />
VICTORIA FALLS TOWN<br />
The Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is set high on a<br />
plateau, four kilometres from town. The plateau<br />
forms a natural boundary to the unfenced<br />
Zambezi National Park and there are fantastic<br />
uninterrupted views from the hotel. A waterhole<br />
in front of the lodge attracts a variety of game<br />
during the dry season, including elephants,<br />
buffalo, impala and kudu. With the feel of a<br />
large safari lodge there are 72 en suite rooms<br />
with hardwoods, thatch and vibrant colours, all<br />
facing across the park. As well as visits to the<br />
Falls you can enjoy guided bushwalks on the<br />
surrounding reserve.<br />
Ilala Lodge, Victoria Falls Town<br />
www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 53
Zambia’s Green Season<br />
Luangwa in the Green Season<br />
Young impala<br />
In Zambia’s Luangwa Valley, the time from<br />
November to May is known as the Green<br />
Season. Heavy rains arrive, promoting lush<br />
growth that sparkles green under hot skies.<br />
Plains are carpeted with tall grasses and the<br />
land is flushed with thickets and forests in full<br />
foliage. The rains are welcomed by the locals<br />
as it is good for the surrounding farms. Days<br />
are beautiful and warm between showers,<br />
many of which occur in the afternoons or at<br />
night. With the downpour of rain the Luangwa<br />
River swells and bursts its banks, flooding<br />
lagoons which fill with hundreds of waterbirds.<br />
Herbivores give birth and birds are in breeding<br />
plumage. The only creature that is notable<br />
for its absence is the visitor. With parks empty<br />
of vehicles and prices a fraction of those in<br />
high season, this is a magical time for the<br />
safari enthusiast.<br />
Wildlife in the Green Season<br />
In the Green Season you will not see the<br />
great numbers of game congregated at water<br />
sources that you would in the dry season.<br />
However, the rains bring abundant food and<br />
many animals give birth. There are nurseries<br />
of tiny impala tottering around on wobbly legs<br />
and baby warthogs sprinting to burrows.<br />
Proliferation of vulnerable animals brings about<br />
increased predator activity and sightings can be<br />
extraordinary. In early May packs of wild dogs<br />
are seen. Birding is exceptional with an influx<br />
of migratory birds arriving in the valley. Spirals<br />
of migrating storks fill the air, heronries are<br />
formed and colonies of weavers’ nests hang<br />
over lagoons. Birds adopt colourful breeding<br />
plumage and mating displays are common.<br />
Safaris in the Green Season<br />
Because of water levels, fewer camps are<br />
open during the Green Season. Those that<br />
do remain open include Kapani Lodge, Kakuli<br />
Bushcamp, Nkwali, Nsefu, Mfuwe Lodge and<br />
Kapamba Bushcamp. These camps have a<br />
good network of all-weather roads making<br />
game drives possible. In addition to game<br />
drives many camps offer boat trips on the<br />
Luangwa River. As visitor numbers are low,<br />
you can often enjoy private guiding from<br />
some of Zambia’s top guides.<br />
Special interest safaris<br />
The Green Season lends itself to a number of<br />
specialist safaris. It is an excellent time of year<br />
for photographers as there is less dust and the<br />
air is crystal clear. The skies begin the day blue<br />
before building up in the afternoon with<br />
spectacular clouds and light. Two photographic<br />
workshops are run in the South Luangwa<br />
allowing amateur photographers to improve<br />
their skills. Two migrations arrive in Zambia<br />
at this time; blue wildebeest to the Liuwa plain<br />
in early November and ten million bats to<br />
Kasanka in late November. Mobile safaris run<br />
to each migration. Finally, around early May<br />
two wild dog safaris are run in the Luangwa<br />
to see these endangered animals.<br />
Masked weaver displaying<br />
54
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC<br />
OF CONGO<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
South Luangwa<br />
National Park<br />
DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC<br />
OF CONGO<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
South Luangwa<br />
National Park<br />
Please call one of our Zambia specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 505<br />
Lusaka<br />
Lusaka<br />
Lower Zambezi<br />
National Park<br />
Getting around<br />
Livingstone<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
Zambia’s four main game areas are the Kafue<br />
National Park, Lower Zambezi National Park and<br />
the North and South Luangwa Parks. Distances<br />
between the parks are large and roads poor. For<br />
this reason we will fly you from one to the other,<br />
using a network of light aircraft flights. On arrival<br />
at the airstrip you will be met by your guide with<br />
an open 4x4 and taken to your first camp. A<br />
typical itinerary will usually incorporate a number<br />
of camps in one park. <strong>Travel</strong>ling from one to the<br />
other can either be done by game drive or on<br />
foot, as many of Zambia’s camps are deliberately<br />
spaced at walking distance apart.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Zambia is situated in the tropics and receives<br />
strong sunlight and good rainfall. Its seasons can<br />
broadly be divided into two periods, the dry<br />
season which runs from May to the end of<br />
October and the green season which run from<br />
November to April. In the dry season you can<br />
expect clear blue skies and sunshine. The months<br />
of July and August can be cold at night but are<br />
hot during the day. As the dry season progresses<br />
the temperature rises with September and<br />
October seeing temperatures of over 30°C. From<br />
November onwards, Zambia receives high rainfall.<br />
This leads to many areas becoming inaccessible<br />
and the camps in the Kafue and Lower Zambezi<br />
close. Some camps in the South Luangwa stay<br />
open and offer good boat safaris. The vegetation<br />
explodes, animals give birth and bird numbers<br />
swell with an influx of migrants.<br />
Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 10 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Zambia on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Classic Zambia<br />
This itinerary combines a stay on an island near<br />
to the Victoria Falls with a week on a wild safari<br />
in the South Luangwa National Park. On tiny<br />
Sindabezi Island, in the middle of the Zambezi<br />
River, you can relax and enjoy boat trips on the<br />
river. A spectacular flight across Zambia takes you<br />
to the heart of the South Luangwa National Park.<br />
Here we’ve chosen a series of small camps in a<br />
remote area of the park. You can spend your days<br />
game viewing from open vehicles or on foot, and<br />
as darkness falls, there is the chance to search for<br />
leopard, honey badgers, bushbabies and<br />
porcupines on a night drive.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-4<br />
Days 5-7<br />
Days 8-9<br />
Fly from the UK to Livingstone<br />
via Johannesburg.<br />
Arrive in Livingstone for three nights<br />
at Sindabezi Island Camp. Explore the<br />
Victoria Falls, visit local village and<br />
take boat trips on the Zambezi River.<br />
Fly to the South Luangwa for three<br />
nights at Chamilandu Bushcamp.<br />
Enjoy game drives, night drives and<br />
walking safaris.<br />
Walk or game drive from<br />
Chamilandu to Chindeni Bushcamp.<br />
Further time on safari.<br />
Days 10-11 Game drive to Kapamba Bushcamp<br />
for two nights. Further time on safari.<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Game drive from Kapamba to the<br />
airstrip. Fly to Lusaka for one night.<br />
Fly from Lusaka to the UK. Arrive<br />
back in the UK in the early evening.<br />
Stay longer<br />
The South Luangwa combines easily with a beach<br />
stay on Lake Malawi. A light aircraft flight takes you<br />
straight into Lilongwe from where you can drive or<br />
fly onwards to the lake. We recommend staying<br />
on colourful Likoma Island, with its small fishing<br />
and farming villages and easy pace of life. With no<br />
traffic, the roads are ideal for cycling and there is<br />
plenty to see, from the golden beaches to the<br />
impressive cathedral on the centre of the island.<br />
Stay a week or so at Kaya Mawa, an idyllic<br />
property perched up on rocks above crystal clear<br />
waters, and spend your days relaxing beside the<br />
pool, on the beach, snorkelling, sailing and diving.<br />
Luangwa & Lower<br />
Zambezi Explorer<br />
This itinerary uses three camps with prime<br />
locations in their respective parks. Combining the<br />
Luangwa and Lower Zambezi provides a good<br />
contrast in scenery, activities and game and gives a<br />
rounded safari experience. Starting in the Luangwa<br />
at Kakuli Bushcamp you can enjoy day and night<br />
game drives before walking along the river to<br />
your next camp, Muchenja. After time here, a<br />
spectacular flight over the Zambezi escarpment<br />
brings you to the Lower Zambezi. As well as day<br />
and night game drives and walking safaris, the<br />
Lower Zambezi is particularly good for boat trips.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-4<br />
Days 5-7<br />
Days 8-11<br />
Day 12<br />
Fly from the UK to Lusaka.<br />
Arrive in Lusaka and connect with<br />
a flight to the South Luangwa for<br />
two nights at Kakuli Bushcamp.<br />
Enjoy game drives, night drives and<br />
walking safaris.<br />
Walk or game drive to Mchenja<br />
Bushcamp for two nights. Further<br />
time on safari.<br />
Game drive to the airstrip. Fly to the<br />
Lower Zambezi for four nights at<br />
Sausage Tree Camp. Enjoy game<br />
drives, night drives, walking safaris<br />
and boat trips on the Zambezi River.<br />
Fly to Lusaka and on to the UK.<br />
Arrive back in the UK in the evening.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Complete the safari with a trip to the Kafue<br />
National Park. This spectacular wildlife area has<br />
few camps and is wild and unexplored. From<br />
Lufupa Lodge enjoy boat trips, walking safaris and<br />
game drives. Then, take a trip up to the Busanga<br />
Plains to stay in Busanga Bushcamp and take to<br />
the air in a hot air balloon.<br />
Viewing hippo on a walking safari<br />
www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 55 53
Malawi<br />
In a cleft of the Great Rift Valley, Malawi<br />
is dominated by the huge sparkling<br />
waters of Lake Malawi which provide the<br />
lifeblood of this small country’s fertile lands.<br />
In addition to the lake, Malawi boasts a<br />
diversity of scenery and activities to rival<br />
those of her better known neighbours. In the<br />
south of the country, visitors will find<br />
vibrant green tea plantations and the lofty<br />
Zomba Plateau, ideal for a few days’ hiking<br />
in the clear mountain air. Here also is<br />
Liwonde National Park, home to sable<br />
antelope, waterbuck, impala and bushbuck.<br />
The palm fringed Shire River twists<br />
through the park and has noisy pods of<br />
hippos in its calm waters. Elephant come to<br />
the river to drink and colorful birds flit<br />
amongst the riverine forest. To the north,<br />
the highlands of the Nyika Plateau are<br />
grazed by zebra and roan antelope. At the<br />
heart of it all lies the ‘Lake of Stars’ whose<br />
clear waters and beautiful lakeshore are<br />
ideal for those seeking either watersports or<br />
pure relaxation. If you are looking to get<br />
off the beaten track, Malawi’s striking<br />
landscapes, warm-hearted people and rich<br />
cultural history are the answer.<br />
56
<strong>Audley</strong> in Malawi<br />
1<br />
3<br />
4<br />
The chef at Nkwichi Lodge<br />
Malawi is a small and friendly country that<br />
offers a variety of scenery and activities.<br />
Visitors can enjoy hiking in the mountains,<br />
exploring tea estates, bicycling through<br />
villages and snorkelling amongst cichlid fish.<br />
On safari you will be able to view elephant,<br />
sable antelope, waterbuck, impala, zebra,<br />
hippo and crocodile, and there is a huge<br />
diversity of bird species too. Malawi can be<br />
enjoyed as a destination in itself, and to see<br />
the country’s highlights will take around two<br />
weeks. However, for big game such as lion,<br />
leopard and buffalo, Zambia’s South Luangwa<br />
National Park is a short flight away. We think<br />
that a week’s safari in the Luangwa followed<br />
by four or five days on the beach at Lake<br />
Malawi is an ideal combination.<br />
Accommodation<br />
2<br />
5<br />
6<br />
Bohm’s Bee-eater<br />
Malawi is a fairly new travel destination and<br />
some visitors may find that its standards of<br />
accommodation are still catching up with<br />
the country’s more developed neighbours.<br />
However several new lodges have opened<br />
in recent years, while others have upgraded<br />
their facilities, and there are now some<br />
excellent options. The accommodation<br />
ranges from simple bush and beach camps,<br />
friendly guesthouses and pretty beach lodges<br />
through to more luxurious safari lodges and<br />
beach retreats. Our specialists have visited all<br />
of the hotels, lodges and camps and will be<br />
able to advise you on their favourites.<br />
1 Lake Malawi<br />
5 Liwonde National Park<br />
With sparkling waters stretching<br />
for 500 kilometres, the lake is<br />
fringed with idyllic sandy beaches.<br />
Malawi’s premier game<br />
viewing destination,<br />
dominated by the winding<br />
2 Cape Maclear<br />
Shire River.<br />
A UNESCO World Heritage Site<br />
and one of the most picturesque<br />
areas of Lake Malawi.<br />
3 Likoma Island<br />
A tiny unspoilt island with rocky<br />
promontories, golden beaches<br />
and huge baobab trees.<br />
4 Manda Wilderness<br />
On the Mozambique shores<br />
of the lake this untouched<br />
wilderness stretches down to<br />
white sand beaches.<br />
Girl selling fish at Cape Maclear<br />
6 Thyolo Region<br />
A beautiful rural area with<br />
vibrant green tea estates<br />
and Malawi’s highest peak,<br />
Mount Mulanje.<br />
Kaya Mawa, Likoma Island<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Malawi, please<br />
see page 61.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Malawi<br />
specialists 01993 838 540<br />
Malawi 57
Kaya Mawa, Likoma Island<br />
Lake Malawi<br />
The waters of Lake Malawi stretch across roughly<br />
one-fifth of Malawi making it the country’s<br />
defining feature. It is often known as the Lake of<br />
Stars due to the reflection of the night sky in its<br />
clear waters; watching the moon rise slowly over<br />
the lake or the sun dipping down into its waters<br />
at the end of the day is an unforgettable<br />
experience. The shores of the lake vary from<br />
golden beaches to steep cliffs and its waters<br />
contain brightly coloured tropical fish. There are<br />
barefoot beach lodges and tiny islands offering<br />
delightful hideaways for those seeking relaxation<br />
and watersports. Swimming in the clear water,<br />
snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking or simply<br />
swinging in a hammock and enjoying the views<br />
are just some of the ways that you can while<br />
away the peaceful hours at the Lake.<br />
A room at Kaya Mawa<br />
58<br />
Likoma Island and the<br />
Mozambique Lakeshore<br />
Towards the northeastern corner of the lake<br />
lies tiny unspoilt Likoma Island, with its rocky<br />
promontories, golden beaches and tall baobab<br />
trees. This sleepy island is steeped in colonial<br />
history and its small town is home to the<br />
impressive, and slightly incongruous, St Peter’s<br />
Cathedral, built by missionaries who came to<br />
the island inspired by the words of David<br />
Livingstone. Mozambique is only a short distance<br />
away across a stretch of water and can be<br />
reached by speedboat from Likoma Island.<br />
Here visitors will find the untouched Manda<br />
Wilderness area encompassing baobab forest<br />
and white sand beaches.<br />
KAYA MAWA, LIKOMA ISLAND<br />
Kaya Mawa means ‘maybe tomorrow’ and its<br />
name sums up the relaxed atmosphere of this<br />
unique lodge. Built on a rocky promontory, it<br />
has a maze of twisting pathways and steps leading<br />
to stone chalets with views over the water.<br />
There are two romantic honeymoon chalets,<br />
one located on its own tiny island. The main<br />
lodge is raised up overlooking the lake and has<br />
a bar, dining area and a small plunge pool. The<br />
snorkelling is superb and you can also explore<br />
the island on foot, by boat or by bicycle.<br />
The lounge at Nkwichi Lodge<br />
NKWICHI LODGE, MANDA<br />
WILDERNESS<br />
Nkwichi Lodge is an ecolodge located on a<br />
beautiful white sand beach. The lodge takes its<br />
name from the local name for the beach, Mchenja<br />
Nkwichi, meaning ‘squeaky sands’, inspired by the<br />
sound that the powdery white sands make as<br />
you walk barefoot across them. The lodge was<br />
constructed by local people from natural<br />
materials which blend with the environment.<br />
Tasty, fresh meals are eaten on the beach, or<br />
perhaps under a giant baobab tree. Guests can<br />
enjoy swimming, snorkelling, boat trips and<br />
kayaking or visits to the community projects<br />
which are sustained by the lodge.
Pounding grain Meeting local children The Mufusa<br />
Growing sunflowers at the Nkwichi Farm<br />
The Southern Lakeshore &<br />
Cape Maclear<br />
Cape Maclear is a beautiful headland that juts<br />
out into crystal clear waters on the southern<br />
lakeshore. The tree-clad cape, its surrounding<br />
waters and a miniature archipelago of twelve<br />
islands were declared a national park in 1980 in<br />
order to protect the unique diversity of tropical<br />
fish here, and later became a UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site. This remote area is reached by a<br />
rough, winding road (which can become<br />
impassable in the rainy season) or by light aircraft.<br />
Visitors to Cape Maclear can stay in Chembe, a<br />
small fishing village with golden beaches on the<br />
lake shore, on one of the headlands or on one<br />
of the tiny islands.<br />
MUMBO ISLAND, LAKE MALAWI<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Mumbo Island is a secluded camp located on a<br />
private island. The island has rocky coves and a<br />
forested interior and is accessed either by kayak<br />
or boat. There are five en suite safari tents<br />
located on a little outcrop and reached by a<br />
wooden walkway, and one family unit on the<br />
main island. The atmosphere at Mumbo is<br />
relaxed and friendly. Activities include kayaking,<br />
snorkelling, diving or, best of all, swinging in<br />
your hammock listening to the waves and the<br />
fish eagles.<br />
Mumbo Island<br />
PUMULANI, CAPE MACLEAR<br />
The luxurious Pumulani is set high up on the<br />
hillside with fabulous views out over the lake.<br />
A winding wooden pathway and steps lead down<br />
to the swimming pool area and a pretty golden<br />
sand beach where you can relax and enjoy a<br />
drink at the tiny beach bar. The ten villas are set<br />
on the hillside and have been designed to blend<br />
into the environment. They are spacious and have<br />
a bedroom, huge bathroom and airy living room<br />
all designed in a chic, modern style.<br />
Pumulani, Cape Maclear<br />
DANFORTH YACHTING,<br />
CAPE MACLEAR<br />
Danforth Yachting is a homely guesthouse run<br />
by Howard and Michelle Massey-Hickes who are<br />
excellent hosts. The guesthouse is set in pretty<br />
gardens running down to the lake, where their<br />
yacht, the Mufusa is moored. With eight rooms<br />
and a relaxed atmosphere this friendly place is<br />
ideal for families and watersports enthusiasts with<br />
lots of activities available. Day trips or sunset<br />
cruises on the yacht are a highlight of any stay<br />
and longer yacht charters can be arranged.<br />
Snorkelling from Mumbo Island<br />
Danforth Yachting<br />
www.audleytravel.com/malawi ● 01993 838 540 ● Malawi 59
Elephant in Liwonde National Park<br />
MVUU WILDERNESS LODGE,<br />
LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK<br />
Mvuu Wilderness Lodge is on the confluence of<br />
the Shire River and a small tributary. There are<br />
eight safari tents each raised up on wooden decks<br />
looking out over the water, one of which is a<br />
romantic honeymoon suite. The main lodge has a<br />
plunge pool, dining and lounge area and excellent<br />
views of hippo in the river and warthog and<br />
antelope on the plains.<br />
Mvuu Lodge<br />
Liwonde National Park<br />
Liwonde is Malawi’s premier game viewing<br />
destination and while the game here does not<br />
match Zambia’s Luangwa Valley, it is nevertheless<br />
impressive. The park is dominated by the vast<br />
borassus palm-fringed Shire River, home to large<br />
hippo pods and crocodiles who bask on its banks.<br />
The game in Liwonde includes elephant, sable<br />
antelope, waterbuck, impala, and bushbuck, and<br />
the birding is excellent. In the centre of the park<br />
is a protected area which provides a safe haven<br />
for the black rhino, buffalo and zebra which are<br />
being reintroduced to the park. Activities in<br />
Liwonde include game drives, walks and boat trips<br />
which enable you to get up close and personal<br />
with the elephant herds bathing in the river and<br />
the hippos wallowing in the shallows.<br />
60<br />
MVUU CAMP, LIWONDE<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Mvuu Camp is also located on the banks of the<br />
Shire with great views over the river. This is an<br />
ideal option for families and larger groups and<br />
offers simple but comfortable en suite<br />
accommodation in twelve chalets and rondavels,<br />
as well as a nearby campsite. The camp has a<br />
central dining and bar area and a large<br />
swimming pool.<br />
Dinner at Mvuu Camp<br />
Waterlilies in the Shire River<br />
Zomba Plateau and the<br />
Thyolo Region<br />
In the south of Malawi you will find Zomba, a<br />
magnificent table-top mountain covered with<br />
forests, streams and waterfalls. It towers above<br />
the former capital of Malawi, an old colonial town<br />
of the same name. The plateau is a lovely place to<br />
discover on foot or by bike and it makes a good<br />
base from which to explore the old town’s faded<br />
colonial splendour and bustling market. Beyond<br />
Zomba is the Thyolo Region, an area of fertile<br />
land dominated by vibrant green tea estates. Here<br />
Malawi’s highest peak, Mount Mulanje, rises over<br />
3,000 metres above the tea estates, woodlands<br />
and rivers. There are not many accommodation<br />
choices in this region, but a good option is to stay<br />
at one of the tea estates in a simple guesthouse.
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tea plantation in Thyolo<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itinerary shown is designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and is a route that<br />
works particularly well. We can use this as a basis<br />
to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
MALAWI<br />
Lake<br />
Malawi<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
Please call one of our Malawi specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Lilongwe<br />
Mumbo Island<br />
Cape Maclear<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 540<br />
Liwonde<br />
National Park<br />
Getting around<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
Satemwa Chawani Bungalow<br />
Ku Chawe Inn<br />
KU CHAWE INN,<br />
ZOMBA PLATEAU<br />
Ku Chawe Inn is located high up on the<br />
Plateau with commanding views of the valley<br />
below. It is about a twenty-minute drive from<br />
Zomba Town up a steep and winding road,<br />
surrounded by dense woodland. The brick<br />
built low-rise hotel is surrounded by lush,<br />
well-tended gardens and has comfortable en<br />
suite rooms with balconies and log fires to<br />
keep out the evening chill.<br />
SATEMWA TEA ESTATE,<br />
THYOLO REGION<br />
Satemwa is one of Malawi’s longest established<br />
tea and coffee estates, owned by the same<br />
family for three generations. The main house,<br />
Huntingdon House, and adjacent Chawani<br />
Bungalow, have been sensitively renovated to<br />
retain their historical charm and now offer<br />
characterful en suite accommodation for<br />
visitors. Outside, there are rolling manicured<br />
lawns, 100 year old trees and colourful<br />
gardens, perfect for long walks. Guests can<br />
explore the estate on foot or by mountain<br />
bike, discover the teas produced and hear the<br />
fascinating history of the Satemwa Estate.<br />
There are no direct flights from the UK to<br />
Lilongwe but daily flights go via either Nairobi or<br />
Johannesburg. As Malawi is a relatively small<br />
country, visitors have the option of exploring<br />
either by light aircraft or by road in a private<br />
vehicle with a Malawian driver-guide. While flights<br />
offer spectacular views, many choose to explore<br />
the country by road in order to have the option<br />
of stopping off at points of interest. Roads in<br />
Malawi range from smooth tarmac to rutted dirt<br />
tracks so a transfer can be an adventure, and fun<br />
with a good guide. It is easy to combine Malawi<br />
with Zambia as flights go each day between<br />
Lilongwe and Mfuwe, the airport outside<br />
Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Malawi has two broad seasons – dry and wet.<br />
The dry season is from May to October. May<br />
until August is a cooler time of year with bright<br />
sunshine and fresh evenings. Temperatures start<br />
to rise in September and remain high throughout<br />
the rainy season which runs from November<br />
until April. In recent years the heaviest rains<br />
have fallen in December, January and February.<br />
Because of Malawi’s varied landscape, regional<br />
variations in weather are significant. The lower<br />
lying lakeshore areas are warmer all year round<br />
while temperatures in the highlands are<br />
refreshingly cool with chilly evenings particularly<br />
in the winter.<br />
Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 12.5 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Malawi on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Malawi Explorer<br />
This trip is a circular one around Southern Malawi,<br />
seeing all of the country’s highlights. You will have<br />
the chance to enjoy a variety of activities including<br />
game viewing in Liwonde National Park, sailing<br />
on the Lake, kayaking around tiny islands and<br />
swimming and snorkelling. <strong>Travel</strong>ling around, you<br />
will have the opportunity to barter at local<br />
markets and meet local people, accompanied by<br />
your guide, who will give you valuable insights<br />
into the country.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Days 3-5<br />
Days 6-8<br />
Days 9-11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Fly from the UK to<br />
Johannesburg overnight.<br />
Arrive in Johannesburg and fly to<br />
Lilongwe for one night.<br />
Guided drive to Liwonde National<br />
Park for three nights at Mvuu Camp.<br />
Game viewing in Liwonde<br />
National Park.<br />
Guided drive to Cape Maclear for<br />
three nights at Danforth Lodge.<br />
Sailing, swimming, snorkelling and<br />
relaxation beside Lake Malawi.<br />
Boat trip or kayak to Mumbo Island<br />
for three nights. Kayaking, swimming<br />
and snorkelling from Mumbo.<br />
Guided drive to Lilongwe. Fly from<br />
Lilongwe to the UK via Johannesburg.<br />
Arrive back in the UK in the<br />
early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
For a big game experience, fly by light aircraft<br />
from Lilongwe to the South Luangwa National<br />
Park in Zambia and stay at Kapani Lodge. Spend<br />
the mornings and evenings exploring the park,<br />
renowned for both its plains game and its big<br />
cat populations.<br />
Coffee beans<br />
www.audleytravel.com/malawi ● 01993 838 540 ● Malawi 61
Mozambique<br />
Mozambique is wild, beautiful and<br />
undeveloped. Miles of palm-fringed<br />
white beaches stretch along the coast. Tiny<br />
villages on the edge of the sand have papaya<br />
trees shading grass huts and dhows moored<br />
up in the mangroves. Offshore, idyllic<br />
archipelagos such as Bazaruto and<br />
Quirimba are surrounded by coral reefs with<br />
beaches that are breeding sites for turtles.<br />
The islands of Ibo and Ilha de Moçambique,<br />
once bustling Swahili trading posts, now<br />
have colonial houses overtaken by strangler<br />
figs, eerie and enticing in equal measure.<br />
Until recently, the mainland has remained<br />
completely off limits for all but the most<br />
intrepid of travellers, but the two game<br />
parks of Gorongosa and Niassa are now<br />
open to visitors. Newborn lodges are finding<br />
their feet and are real gems with original<br />
ideas and outstanding service. Elephant<br />
roam unfettered by boundaries, lion can<br />
be heard roaring at night, and with no<br />
light pollution to hide them, the stars<br />
sparkle against an ink black sky. With an<br />
increasingly good network of flights,<br />
Mozambique is slowly coming to life – in<br />
our opinion, this is an ideal time to visit.<br />
62
<strong>Audley</strong> in Mozambique<br />
1<br />
4<br />
6<br />
We have been operating in Mozambique<br />
for many years and have seen it grow from<br />
a beach-only destination with two lodges to<br />
the safari circuit it offers now. It is currently<br />
one of the most exciting African countries<br />
as national parks are becoming accessible,<br />
flight networks taking shape and tented<br />
camps opening.<br />
2<br />
5<br />
We can recommend three types of<br />
itinerary: a stand-alone beach holiday, an<br />
island hopping trip or a safari and beach<br />
combination. If you’d like a week on the<br />
beach there are lots of options, from<br />
ecolodges to luxurious hotels. For island<br />
hopping, the Quirimba Archipelago is perfect,<br />
as you can combine time spent soaking up<br />
the history and culture of Ibo Island with a<br />
stay at a beach retreat such as Medjumbe.<br />
Those wanting to combine safari and beach<br />
can fly with ease between the coast and the<br />
Niassa Reserve and Gorongosa National<br />
Park. Both are wild reserves where the<br />
emphasis is on walking and exploring rather<br />
than ticking off the big five.<br />
Accommodation<br />
1 Niassa Game Reserve 4 Quirimba<br />
6 Ibo Island<br />
One of Africa’s wildest reserves. Archipelago<br />
Spectacular scenery and good<br />
walking country.<br />
2 Gorongosa<br />
National Park<br />
A legendary park in the<br />
1960s before the civil war.<br />
An extensive relocation<br />
programme is leading to<br />
increasing game numbers.<br />
3 Bazaruto Archipelago<br />
An archipelago formed by<br />
sand dunes rising from the sea.<br />
A stunning beach destination<br />
with world-class diving and<br />
snorkelling.<br />
3<br />
A breathtaking collection of coral<br />
islands. Luxury accommodation<br />
and excellent diving.<br />
5 Ilha de Moçambique<br />
The former capital of<br />
Mozambique and largely<br />
unchanged since its construction<br />
three hundred years ago. A<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Site.<br />
Quirimba beach<br />
An ancient Swahili town with<br />
now-crumbling mansions, forts,<br />
churches and markets. Eerie<br />
and atmospheric.<br />
Local Ibo lady<br />
Each year new camps and lodges are<br />
opening in Mozambique. We find this a<br />
bonus as they tend to have fresh designs,<br />
original ideas and staff with lots of<br />
enthusiasm. On the coast, accommodation<br />
ranges from exclusive private islands such as<br />
Vamizi to simple ecolodges such as Guludo.<br />
Mozambique is the master of the ‘barefoot<br />
boutique’ hotel with several properties such<br />
as Azura, Coral Lodge and Benguerra in this<br />
bracket. All offer excellent cuisine and a<br />
high standard of accommodation. The two<br />
reserves of Niassa and Gorongosa only have<br />
one tented camp in each to date although<br />
we are expecting this to change. Both camps<br />
offer knowledgeable guides, comfortable<br />
tents and are in remote wilderness areas.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Mozambique,<br />
please see page 71.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Mozambique<br />
specialists 01993 838 560<br />
Mozambique 63
Songue River wetlands, Gorongosa<br />
Gorongosa National Park<br />
In the sixties, Gorongosa was considered one<br />
of the best game viewing destinations in Africa.<br />
However, during the protracted civil war, the park<br />
suffered badly and game numbers plummeted. In<br />
2004 Gorongosa’s fortunes began to be reversed<br />
when an ambitious relocation programme started.<br />
Today the project is well underway and wildlife<br />
populations are steadily increasing.<br />
As you head out into the park on foot through<br />
fever tree forests the bush comes alive.<br />
Waterbuck, oribi and impala dart across<br />
floodplains and indented in the earth you can see<br />
lion spoor, among other tracks. Sable, reedbuck,<br />
nyala and Lichtenstein’s hartebeest all occur in<br />
good numbers as do buffalo and zebra. Leopard<br />
are present but shy, so seen infrequently.<br />
In the north of the park the Songue River and<br />
surrounding wetlands are filled with every<br />
Elephant herd in Gorongosa<br />
64<br />
Explore Gorongosa tented camp<br />
imaginable waterbird. Elephant come to drink,<br />
pods of hippos bask in the water and crocodile<br />
can be seen on the sandbanks. Sunset here is a<br />
magical way to end your day of discovery.<br />
EXPLORE GORONGOSA,<br />
GORONGOSA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Explore Gorongosa is the first camp to open<br />
in the park since the regeneration and has an<br />
excellent position above the seasonal Mussicadzi<br />
River. There are four large, semi-permanent tents<br />
with double beds and en suite bathrooms with<br />
open air hot bucket showers. This is camping in<br />
comfort without going over the top on luxury,<br />
perfect for an area that is so wild and remote.<br />
The camp places strong emphasis on personalised<br />
experiences, conservation and taking time to<br />
explore the park. Game viewing is done on foot<br />
as well as from vehicles and guests can also take<br />
mokoro boat trips at certain times of year.<br />
Walking safari in Gorongosa<br />
Impala on the floodplains
Elephant in the Niassa Reserve<br />
Grey tree frog Lugenda Camp Impala in Niassa<br />
Niassa Reserve<br />
The Niassa Reserve in northern Mozambique is<br />
one of the largest and most untamed reserves in<br />
Africa. Majestic granite hills rise from miombo<br />
woodland, and two snaking rivers, the Lugenda<br />
and Rovuma, are flanked by riverine forest. The<br />
wildlife in the reserve suffered during the civil war,<br />
but this is still home to the highest concentrations<br />
of game in the country. There are large herds<br />
of elephant and buffalo while kudu, impala,<br />
hartebeest, wildebeest, zebra, waterbuck,<br />
bushbuck and reedbuck are regularly sighted.<br />
Hyena, lion and leopard are also there, though<br />
sightings are not as common.<br />
Niassa is suited to those looking for an active<br />
safari. The excitement begins on arrival, as<br />
flying low towards the airstrip you skim over the<br />
Lugenda River and spot hippo and crocodile in<br />
the sluggish waters. Game drives are part of your<br />
stay but it is the other activities that give Niassa<br />
the edge. Paddling a canoe down the river, you<br />
glide silently past African skimmers, yellow-billed<br />
storks and all types of kingfishers. Climbing one<br />
of the granite inselbergs requires stamina but the<br />
far reaching views across the reserve make it<br />
worthwhile. Game drives allow you to spot bigger<br />
game and night drives reveal civets, genets and<br />
porcupines nosing out of their daytime hiding<br />
spots. Dozens of nightjars flit across the headlights’<br />
beams as the smell of warm dust fills the air.<br />
LUGENDA CAMP, NIASSA RESERVE<br />
Lugenda Camp is situated under sycamore figs.<br />
When the trees are in fruit, elephant enjoy<br />
coming into camp to eat the fallen figs and you<br />
often don’t have to leave your tent to enjoy some<br />
big game. There are eight luxury tents with en<br />
suite bathrooms at the back and shady verandas<br />
at the front. In the centre of camp a dining and<br />
lounge area built of wood and thatch has open<br />
sides looking out to the bush. You can also dine<br />
in the outside boma area around an open camp<br />
fire. Lots of activities including game drives, night<br />
drives, walking and canoeing keep you busy in<br />
the morning and evening. For the heat of the<br />
day, the small pool is ideal for relaxation with<br />
a good book.<br />
EXPLORE NIASSA EXPEDITIONS,<br />
NIASSA RESERVE<br />
Explore Niassa Expeditions run four to seven<br />
night mobile camping safaris in a remote area of<br />
Niassa. The trips will suit active people wanting<br />
to immerse themselves in the wilderness with an<br />
expert guide. All safaris start at Lugenda Camp<br />
and follow the Lugenda River either on foot, by<br />
canoe or occasionally by vehicle. At night, the fly<br />
camps will have been set up for you by a camp<br />
crew awaiting your arrival. Camps are unfussy<br />
but comfortable, with hot water, cold drinks,<br />
delicious meals and cosy beds. After dinner<br />
around the campfire nothing beats lying in your<br />
dome tent, listening to a distant lion roar or the<br />
whoop of a hyena.<br />
Niassa viewpoint<br />
www.audleytravel.com/mozambique ● 01993 838 560 ● Mozambique 65
Dhow in the Bazaruto Archipelago<br />
The Bazaruto Archipelago<br />
The Bazaruto Archipelago consists of five dune<br />
islands strung out in the turquoise waters of the<br />
Indian Ocean. Two of the islands, Bazaruto and<br />
Benguerra, have lodges whilst the islands of<br />
Santa Isobel, Santa Carolina and Magaruque have<br />
no accommodation. Declared a national park<br />
in 1971, these islands are idyllic, with sugar<br />
white beaches whose sands squeak underfoot.<br />
Palm trees give way to lush vegetation, in<br />
which samango monkeys, green coucals and<br />
blue-cheeked bee-eaters make their home.<br />
Little villages are tucked away, shaded beneath<br />
orange and cashew nut trees. However, it is the<br />
sea that holds perhaps the greatest attraction.<br />
Warmed by the waters of the Mozambique<br />
Stream, the waters are clear with mile upon<br />
mile of reef. It is hard to beat the diving and<br />
Bazaruto Lodge<br />
66<br />
A suite at Indigo Bay<br />
snorkelling here as the coral is pristine and variety<br />
of fish superb. You will find three species of turtle,<br />
including the loggerhead that nests on the islands,<br />
while spinner and humpback dolphins and dugong<br />
are also seen.<br />
BAZARUTO LODGE,<br />
BAZARUTO ISLAND<br />
Bazaruto Lodge is set on the edge of a long<br />
white sandy beach in the north of Bazaruto Island.<br />
It is a simple lodge, ideal for those looking for a<br />
quiet hideaway in which to focus on the beach,<br />
snorkelling and walking. The 40 thatched<br />
bungalows are dotted beneath palms in the<br />
garden and along the beach. The dining room,<br />
bar and swimming pool all have sea views. Crab,<br />
crayfish, calamari, prawns and fresh salads feature<br />
on the menu. While dinner is taken in the dining<br />
room, lunch is usually by the pool, or you can<br />
take a picnic to the beach.<br />
INDIGO BAY RESORT,<br />
BAZARUTO ISLAND<br />
Indigo Bay Resort is situated on a perfect<br />
crescent of white sand on Bazaruto Island. It is a<br />
large resort by Mozambique standards and has<br />
44 air-conditioned rooms. There are two<br />
restaurants, one serving à la carte Mozambican<br />
and Portuguese cuisine and the other dishing up<br />
African bush-style dinners under the stars. A pool<br />
bar serves snacks throughout the day. Indigo Bay<br />
has plenty to offer the active. There are two<br />
pools, and diving, snorkelling, fishing, windsurfing,<br />
sailing, horse-riding and 4x4 trips can be arranged.<br />
It is an ideal resort for families with plenty to do<br />
for the children whilst parents can enjoy a<br />
relaxing treatment in the new spa.<br />
Indigo Bay Resort
Turtle in the Bazaruto Archipelago<br />
A casita at Benguerra Lodge<br />
The beach at Benguerra Lodge<br />
Pansy Island<br />
MARLIN LODGE,<br />
BENGUERRA ISLAND<br />
On Benguerra Island, Marlin Lodge is built into<br />
the dunes above a broad sandy beach. It is a<br />
friendly and relaxed lodge with an unpretentious<br />
atmosphere. Wooden decks lead to 17 chalets<br />
which vary in size from simple rooms to luxury<br />
suites. All have spacious bedrooms, en suite<br />
bathrooms and shady verandas, with a private<br />
sandy path leading from your chalet onto the<br />
beach. Activities at the lodge include diving,<br />
snorkelling, game fishing and 4x4 trips exploring<br />
the dunes. Or, if it’s relaxation you are after, you<br />
could try their spa.<br />
BENGUERRA LODGE,<br />
BENGUERRA ISLAND<br />
This lodge has 12 beautiful casitas and cabanas<br />
shaded by milkwood trees overlooking the sandy<br />
shore. The rooms are raised on wooden platforms<br />
and have king size beds and en suite bathrooms.<br />
All have a private plunge pool. There is a North<br />
African feel to the décor and the main lounge has<br />
wide chairs with colourful cushions. The dining<br />
room has a deck overlooking the garden and<br />
meals are often served under the trees or on the<br />
beach. Activities at Benguerra include fishing, diving<br />
and snorkelling trips with stops at Pansy Island for<br />
lazing around. There’s also the chance to explore<br />
the island by 4x4 and have a picnic on a deserted<br />
beach. For the less active, the small spa is a delight.<br />
Room at Azura<br />
Marlin Lodge<br />
AZURA, BENGUERRA ISLAND<br />
Azura is a luxurious retreat on the northwest of<br />
Benguerra Island. The 14 air-conditioned villas are<br />
built in a style that combines traditional African<br />
with modern luxury. Each villa has a large<br />
bedroom, en suite bathroom and private plunge<br />
pool. On arrival a bottle of French wine will be<br />
waiting for you in your room and a butler is<br />
available to look after your every need. Spa<br />
treatments are available in the privacy of your villa.<br />
There is a main swimming pool as well as a PADI<br />
dive centre and a well equipped fishing centre.<br />
The lodge’s Azura Rainbow Fund runs a variety of<br />
local projects supporting the community as well as<br />
the Dugong Protection Foundation.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/mozambique ● 01993 838 560 ● Mozambique 67
Dhow sailing from Medjumbe Island<br />
A room at Medjumbe Island Resort<br />
The Quirimba Archipelago<br />
The Quirimba Archipelago is made up of 32 coral<br />
islands just off the coast of northern Mozambique.<br />
Some of the islands such as Medjumbe, Matemo,<br />
Vamizi and Ibo now have tiny boutique hotels,<br />
while others including Rongai, Tecmagi and<br />
Metundo are home only to nesting turtles and<br />
seabirds. Pristine and largely unknown, these<br />
islands are visited by just a handful of guests.<br />
Tangled green creepers tumble to the water<br />
from low coral cliffs and white sandy beaches are<br />
littered with shells. There are butterflies, tropical<br />
flowers, monkeys and birds, but – apart from<br />
the local fishermen there are few people. The<br />
turquoise waters are a marine sanctuary, rich with<br />
coral and fish, green and hawksbill turtles,<br />
humpback whales and the rare dugong.<br />
68<br />
MEDJUMBE ISLAND RESORT,<br />
MEDJUMBE ISLAND<br />
This boutique hotel, located on Medjumbe<br />
Private Island, which at just one kilometre long<br />
and 350 metres wide, is a tiny hideaway. There<br />
are twelve modern chalets on the edge of the<br />
beach, with private plunge pool, air-conditioning<br />
and en suite bathrooms. The active can enjoy<br />
diving, snorkeling, boating and picnics on nearby<br />
Quisanga Island whilst those seeking to relax can<br />
climb into the hammock on the veranda and<br />
have a snooze.<br />
Snorkelling from Medjumbe<br />
A chalet at Matemo Island Resort<br />
The pool at Matemo Island Resort<br />
MATEMO ISLAND RESORT,<br />
MATEMO ISLAND<br />
Matemo Island Resort sits on the corner of<br />
Matemo Island on a curving sandy beach and has<br />
24 modern air-conditioned chalets with pretty<br />
verandas overlooking the beach. The main lodge<br />
has a dining room with views of the sea and a<br />
pool set into the rocks. Many activities can be<br />
enjoyed, including snorkelling, diving, deep sea<br />
fishing and trips to Ibo Island.
Ibo Island street Quirimba girl A villa at Vamizi<br />
The beach at Vamizi Island<br />
VAMIZI ISLAND LODGE,<br />
VAMIZI ISLAND<br />
Vamizi Island is a little slice of paradise with a<br />
soft white sandy beach littered with shells. Turtles<br />
nest on the beach from December to May and<br />
humpback whales pass by in July and August.<br />
Vamizi Island Lodge is the most luxurious lodge<br />
in Mozambique and has 13 large villas. Each has<br />
a bedroom with ocean views and a living room<br />
with sofas, books and wooden chests full of cold<br />
drinks. Fresh buckets of crabs are bought from<br />
the local fishermen and prepared for dinner<br />
which is served on the beach and lit by lanterns.<br />
The days can be spent swimming, snorkelling,<br />
diving and exploring other islands.<br />
Access to the islands is by light aircraft<br />
Ibo Island Lodge<br />
IBO ISLAND LODGE, IBO ISLAND<br />
This quirky lodge is made from two refurbished<br />
mansions each over a century old, with high<br />
ceilings, wide verandas and heavy wooden doors.<br />
They are furnished with mahogany day beds and<br />
antiques and soft African fabrics, all produced by<br />
skilled local craftsmen. The fourteen rooms are<br />
individually designed and have en suite facilities<br />
and there is a pool in the pretty garden. The<br />
lodge makes good use of its waterfront location,<br />
with meals served up on the rooftop overlooking<br />
the sea. The menu features home grown organic<br />
vegetables as well as tiger prawns, game fish and<br />
crab. When staying on Ibo, you can explore the<br />
island’s town, with its crumbling colonial<br />
architecture, or can take trips to nearby<br />
sandbanks for snorkelling and picnics.<br />
GULUDO BEACH LODGE,<br />
MOZAMBIQUE MAINLAND<br />
Facing the Quirimba Archipelago, Guludo<br />
Beach Lodge is located on a 12 kilometre<br />
beach on the mainland. Its owners Amy and<br />
Neal have created a sustainable lodge that<br />
directly benefits the local communities. The lodge<br />
is simple but beautiful, all the staff are from the<br />
local villages and many community projects are<br />
underway as a result of money generated from<br />
the lodge. Accommodation is in reed and thatch<br />
bandas and dining is under thatch or on the<br />
beach. There is a wide variety of activities<br />
including diving, snorkelling, village walks, and<br />
boat trips to Rolas Island.<br />
View from Guludo Beach Lodge<br />
www.audleytravel.com/mozambique ● 01993 838 560 ● Mozambique 69
Beach at Nanantha Bay<br />
The Nacala Region<br />
On the mainland, Nacala and the surrounding<br />
area have until recently been too remote for any<br />
other than the hardiest of backpackers to reach.<br />
There is only one tarmac road leading to<br />
Nampula, where a small airport is located. Off<br />
this, rutted sandy tracks lead to villages where the<br />
Macua people live from subsistence farming. The<br />
coast is unspoilt, with endless beaches backed by<br />
mangroves and subtropical bush. Offshore there<br />
are un-dived reefs and shipwrecks underneath the<br />
waves. Humpback whales pass through on their<br />
annual migration from July to September. One of<br />
Ilha de Moçambique<br />
70<br />
A chalet at Nuarro<br />
the most exciting places to visit in this region is<br />
the Ilha de Moçambique. Once the capital of the<br />
country, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage<br />
Site. Reached by a long bridge, this tiny island is<br />
two miles long and 500 metres wide and has a<br />
city of narrow streets, beautiful churches, trading<br />
houses and a hospital. Many of the buildings are<br />
now being carefully restored. South of Ilha de<br />
Moçambique, La Varanda is a private nature<br />
reserve that encompasses mangrove forests,<br />
dunes and white beaches and has one small<br />
lodge. North of Nampula, the remote Nanantha<br />
Bay is crescent shaped and backed by baobab<br />
trees. Fishing villages are dotted along the shore<br />
and dhows are a common sight. The one small<br />
lodge here is an ideal base from which to explore.<br />
NUARRO LODGE, NANANTHA BAY<br />
Nuarro Lodge is built on the point at the end of<br />
Nanatha Bay, where the beach stretches for<br />
several miles and is backed by bush and baobab<br />
forest. The lodge is run on strong ethical principles<br />
and the community is active in building the<br />
business. Nuarro has twelve chalets tucked into<br />
the dune vegetation, each with a hammock on<br />
the veranda. There are a number of family chalets<br />
which have a mezzanine level for children. PADI<br />
diving instructors are on hand to take you on<br />
dives whilst non-divers can enjoy snorkelling,<br />
dhow sailing, fishing and whale watching, in season.<br />
On land there are eco trails to enjoy by bike or<br />
on foot as well as village visits and trips to Ilha<br />
de Moçambique.<br />
CORAL LODGE 1541,<br />
LA VARANDA NATURE RESERVE<br />
This lodge is situated at the tip of a peninsula with<br />
a lagoon on one side and the Indian Ocean on<br />
the other. The lagoon is sheltered and clear and<br />
its coral reefs make it ideal for swimming and<br />
snorkelling. There are ten villas at Coral Lodge,<br />
built on top of the dunes to maximise the views<br />
of the sea and to enable circulation of the sea<br />
breeze. Cuisine is a highlight, with only local<br />
ingredients used – fresh fish and shellfish bought<br />
from local fishermen each day. After a big meal<br />
there are plenty of land and water based activities<br />
to help you work off your lunch!
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Mozambique specialists to<br />
start planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 560<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
TANZANIA<br />
Guludo Beach Lodge<br />
Niassa Game Reserve<br />
Ibo Island<br />
Pemba<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
ZIMBABWE<br />
TANZANIA<br />
MOZAMBIQUE<br />
Benguerra Island<br />
Vilanculos<br />
Getting around<br />
As distances are large in Mozambique it is best<br />
to fly around the country. South African Airlink<br />
flies from Johannesburg to Pemba, where you<br />
can pick up light aircraft flights to access the<br />
Quirimba Islands and the Niassa Reserve.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong>ling between the islands can either be<br />
by plane or boat, depending on the distances<br />
involved. Linhas Aereas de Mocambique has<br />
services between Johannesburg, Vilanculos,<br />
Pemba, Maputo, Nacala and Beira from where<br />
you can access Gorongosa National Park. Finally,<br />
Pelican Air, a small airline, flies regularly between<br />
Johannesburg, the Kruger National Park and<br />
Vilanculos. From here you can take a light aircraft<br />
across to the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Mozambique has a warm tropical climate with<br />
significant regional variations. Northern<br />
Mozambique has a dry season that runs from May<br />
to November, although there can be a few rain<br />
showers in September. Temperatures are lowest<br />
in July when it is typically about 28C, and highest<br />
in November when it can rise to over 30C. The<br />
rains begin in December and last until the end of<br />
May, with February and April being the wettest<br />
months. Southern Mozambique has a dry season<br />
which runs from April to October. The coolest<br />
months of July and August have temperatures of<br />
about 25C whilst October can be about 30C.<br />
The rains start in November and run to the end<br />
of March with the rainiest months being January<br />
and February.<br />
Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 14 hours<br />
Prices<br />
Mozambique Explorer<br />
The Mozambique Explorer will suit those who<br />
want to do more than sit on a beach. This trip<br />
allows you to enjoy some wild game viewing,<br />
explore the ruined city on Ibo Island, integrate<br />
yourself into the community at Guludo, and, of<br />
course, swim and snorkel as much as you choose.<br />
You will hop between each location in light aircraft,<br />
enjoying spectacular views as you go. Seafood is<br />
excellent on the islands and you’ll enjoy some<br />
wonderful meals.<br />
Day 1<br />
Johannesburg<br />
Days 2-5<br />
Days 6-8<br />
Days 9-11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Fly from the UK to<br />
Johannesburg overnight.<br />
Fly from Johannesburg to Pemba.<br />
Fly to the Niassa Game Reserve for<br />
three nights at Lugenda Camp.<br />
Game viewing in the Niassa Reserve.<br />
Fly to Ibo Island for three nights at<br />
Ibo Island Lodge. Explore Ibo Island,<br />
swim and snorkel from sandbanks<br />
and coral islands.<br />
Boat transfer to Guludo Beach Lodge<br />
for three nights. Swim, snorkel and<br />
relax at Guludo.<br />
Road transfer to Pemba and fly to<br />
Johannesburg. Fly from Johannesburg<br />
to the UK overnight.<br />
Arrive in the UK in the early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Mozambique combines well with a safari in<br />
Botswana, Namibia or Zambia. You can spend a<br />
week or longer in the large game reserves in any<br />
of these countries before flying to Mozambique.<br />
A night in Johannesburg is required in between,<br />
and we minimise your time here, flying you into<br />
Jo’burg at dusk and out to Mozambique at dawn.<br />
Due to good flight connections you can be on<br />
safari in Botswana in the morning and enjoying a<br />
large seafood lunch in Mozambique the next day.<br />
Bazaruto Beaches<br />
This itinerary allows you to spend time in one of<br />
the most unspoiled beach destinations in Africa.<br />
Basing yourself at Marlin Lodge, you will be able to<br />
enjoy endless activities. Both divers and snorkellers<br />
can marvel at the diverse coral and sponges as<br />
well as a myriad of reef fish and turtles. Sunset<br />
dhow cruises with a bottle of chilled wine are very<br />
relaxing, as is time in the spa at Marlin Lodge. You<br />
may wish to visit the market at Vilanculos, climb a<br />
sand dune or take a picnic to a remote beach.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Johannesburg<br />
Fly from the UK to<br />
Johannesburg overnight.<br />
Fly from Johannesburg to Vilanculos<br />
Road and boat transfer from<br />
Vilanculos to Benguerra Island for<br />
eight nights at Marlin Lodge. Swim,<br />
snorkel and dive on the offshore<br />
reefs. Walk and enjoy<br />
picnics on Benguerra Island.<br />
Boat and road transfer to Vilanculos<br />
Airport. Fly to Johannesburg and then<br />
to the UK overnight.<br />
Arrive back in the UK in the<br />
early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
The Bazaruto Archipelago combines well with<br />
time in the Gorongosa National Park. Most<br />
people like to enjoy a safari before time on<br />
the beach so we would suggest flying from<br />
Johannesburg to Gorongosa. The tented camp,<br />
Explore Gorongosa, has outstanding guiding and<br />
service. You will be able to enjoy both game<br />
drives and walking safaris as well as learning about<br />
the game relocation project currently underway.<br />
After time in the park, you can fly directly to<br />
Bazaruto for your beach stay.<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Mozambique on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Dining on the rooftop at Ibo Island Lodge<br />
The pool at Lugenda Camp<br />
www.audleytravel.com/mozambique ● 01993 838 560 ● Mozambique 71
Tanzania<br />
Tanzania contains the very best of<br />
East Africa’s attractions, combining<br />
large national parks and dense animal<br />
populations with pristine beaches. It is vast,<br />
vibrant and a photographer’s paradise.<br />
To the north, wildebeest and zebra flood<br />
the Serengeti plains each year. Flamingos<br />
blanket the lakes in shimmering pinks,<br />
herds of elephants roam the savannah,<br />
and Maasai herders walk with their cattle.<br />
The snow-capped peak of Mount<br />
Kilimanjaro is Africa’s highest point. To the<br />
south lie remote reserves, where wild dogs<br />
make dens, thousands of buffalo graze and<br />
lakes and rivers house hippos and crocodiles.<br />
Away from the savannah, towering<br />
mountains are entangled in thick rainforest.<br />
Emerald leaves drip with dew, birds and<br />
monkeys cackle and shrieks of chimpanzees<br />
slice the air. Perfect for post-safari<br />
relaxation are the tropical islands and<br />
colourful villages of the Zanzibar and<br />
Mafia archipelagos. Miles of white sand<br />
are flanked by coconut palms, small fishing<br />
villages tucked underneath. Dhows sail over<br />
turquoise waters, whilst iridescent tropical<br />
fish swim around the rich coral reefs.<br />
72
<strong>Audley</strong> in Tanzania<br />
5<br />
6<br />
1<br />
4<br />
2<br />
7<br />
Tanzania is a vast country with a dizzying<br />
array of options. It is impossible to see<br />
everything that the country has to offer in<br />
one trip, so we recommend focusing on<br />
just one or two areas. In northern Tanzania<br />
the parks such as the Ngorongoro Crater<br />
and Serengeti are well known and can be<br />
busy. Through extensive travel in this region,<br />
we have found a way to avoid other<br />
visitors and stay in quiet areas. Whilst many<br />
visitors simply drive around, we give you<br />
the freedom to explore on foot along<br />
paths that only the Maasai know, and to<br />
camp in magical spots surrounded by game.<br />
3<br />
In southern Tanzania, we know the Selous<br />
and Ruaha inside-out. We have hand picked<br />
camps with the best locations and expert<br />
guides and can seamlessly combine all the<br />
parks with Tanzania’s beaches and islands.<br />
On Zanzibar we work with local guides and<br />
a small number of hotels whose owners we<br />
know personally. Small lodges on the Mafia<br />
Islands and the coast of northern Tanzania<br />
are ideal for those looking for a really<br />
remote place to stay on an idyllic beach.<br />
Whatever you’d like to do in Tanzania, our<br />
team can tailor a trip suited to you.<br />
1 Serengeti National Park<br />
Tanzania’s most famous<br />
national park, where the Great<br />
Migration herds roam for most<br />
of the year.<br />
2 Ngorongoro Crater<br />
A volcanic caldera where you<br />
can enjoy some of the best<br />
game viewing in Tanzania in a<br />
short timeframe.<br />
3 Selous Game Reserve<br />
With Tanzania’s largest wild dog<br />
population and huge herds of<br />
elephants, this is a superb and<br />
wild area to explore on safari.<br />
Lion in the Serengeti<br />
Mongoose<br />
4 Ruaha National Park 7 Zanzibar Archipelago<br />
Another gem in Southern<br />
Tanzania with vast open plains,<br />
huge buffalo herds and good<br />
lion populations.<br />
Beautiful spice islands with<br />
idyllic sandy beaches and<br />
accessible coral reefs for<br />
snorkelling and diving.<br />
5 Mahale Mountains<br />
On the shores of Lake<br />
Tanganyika, rainforest-clad<br />
mountains provide a refuge<br />
for chimpanzees.<br />
6 Katavi National Park<br />
One of the country’s wildest<br />
and most remote national parks.<br />
Lovebird<br />
Accommodation<br />
Throughout Tanzania, we use a variety of<br />
lodges and camps, ranging in comfort but<br />
always in a good location so that you can<br />
enjoy the wildlife and stunning views. Our<br />
preference is for the smaller properties,<br />
where you can be assured of personal<br />
service and attention to detail. We can find<br />
you an authentic safari camp in which to<br />
experience the magic of waking to the<br />
sunrise in your tent, or if you’d prefer, a<br />
luxurious tree-top lodge. On the beach, we<br />
have found simple cottages perched on vast<br />
stretches of white sand as well as stylish<br />
lodges on private islands.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Tanzania, please<br />
see pages 90-91.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Tanzania<br />
specialists 01993 838 545<br />
Tanzania 73
Sunset in the Serengeti<br />
Serengeti National Park<br />
The Serengeti is synonymous with stamping<br />
hooves of wildebeest, vast golden savannah plains,<br />
and some of Tanzania’s most prolific wildlife.<br />
This is Africa’s most famous and fabulous game<br />
reserve. Subject of countless documentaries, the<br />
Serengeti does not disappoint in reality. Each year,<br />
up to two million wildebeest, zebra and gazelle<br />
snake their way across the plains following the<br />
promise of rain, forming one of the world’s<br />
greatest wildlife spectacles. Even without the<br />
migration, the Serengeti’s wildlife is unparalleled.<br />
Lion are practically a certainty, often seen<br />
lounging on the rocky kopjes. Cheetah pace the<br />
plains or stand atop termite mounds, and leopard<br />
lounge in the dappled shade of the sausage trees.<br />
OLAKIRA MOBILE CAMP,<br />
SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK<br />
A classic mobile safari camp, Olakira moves<br />
around the Serengeti throughout the year in<br />
order to be best situated for the Great Migration<br />
herds. Large walk-in tents with proper beds,<br />
lights and en suite bathrooms with bucket<br />
showers make this a comfortable place to rest<br />
after an exhilarating day on safari. Lunches are<br />
served under the boughs of an acacia tree,<br />
enjoying uninterrupted views across the vast<br />
savannah. This is one of our favourite camps,<br />
offering great food, knowledgeable guides and,<br />
most importantly, a superb location for your<br />
safari in the Serengeti.<br />
Olakira Mobile Camp<br />
Ballooning in the Serengeti<br />
74<br />
Cheetah
Bateleur eagle<br />
Game drive in the Serengeti<br />
Giraffe browsing<br />
Leopard climbing a tree<br />
NOMAD SERENGETI SAFARI CAMP,<br />
SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK<br />
With only eight luxury tents, this specialist mobile<br />
safari camp offers a wonderfully comfortable base<br />
for exploring the Serengeti. Moving around the<br />
park throughout the year to follow the migration,<br />
it is always well placed for game viewing. The<br />
camp provides each couple or group with a<br />
private guide, allowing you to plan your days<br />
around your interests. This is particularly useful<br />
for keen photographers as it allows ample time for<br />
wildlife photography. In the evenings, stories of the<br />
day’s adventures are shared around the campfire<br />
before a hearty dinner under the African sky.<br />
KLEIN’S CAMP, SERENGETI<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Bordering the northeastern edge of the Serengeti,<br />
Klein’s camp sits on a hillside overlooking the<br />
valleys and plains that stretch to the Kenyan<br />
border. With only ten thatched chalets, this is<br />
one of the smallest and most exclusive camps in<br />
the park. It offers guests the chance to explore<br />
not only on daytime game drives, but also night<br />
drives and guided walks in the camp’s private<br />
reserve. The area is superb for elephant and large<br />
buffalo herds, and really comes into its own<br />
during July and October when the migration<br />
herds pass through.<br />
Sayari Camp<br />
Nomad Serengeti Safari Camp<br />
SAYARI CAMP, SERENGETI<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Overlooking the Mara River in the far north of<br />
the Serengeti, Sayari has a commanding position<br />
and sweeping views. The luxurious tents are vast,<br />
based on wooden platforms, and stylishly<br />
designed with real attention to detail, down to<br />
the cosy daybed on your balcony, just perfect for<br />
relaxing and enjoying the wildlife as it wanders<br />
past. This area of the national park is quiet and<br />
unspoilt, allowing you to enjoy the wildlife with<br />
only the sounds of birds to disturb you. It’s a very<br />
tranquil place to stay and ideal for those looking<br />
to really get away from it all.<br />
Klein’s Camp<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 75
The Great Migration<br />
Migrating zebra and wildebeest<br />
The savannah plains stretching from Kenya’s<br />
Masai Mara to Tanzania’s Serengeti set the scene<br />
for one of the world’s greatest wildlife spectacles;<br />
the annual migration of more than two million<br />
wildebeest, zebra and gazelle. Lion, leopard,<br />
cheetah and hyena wait in great anticipation for<br />
the arrival of the herds, ready to single out a<br />
weak or vulnerable animal for an easy dinner.<br />
This is the Africa that wildlife documentaries are<br />
made of, and no matter whether you have been<br />
on one or a dozen safaris, there is little to<br />
compare to the spectacle of the migration<br />
herds and the drama that surrounds them.<br />
Practicalities for your Great<br />
Migration safari<br />
The migration can either be viewed from Kenya<br />
from about July to October or Tanzania from<br />
November to June. Although you may think it<br />
Jackal on a wildebeest kill<br />
Game driving amongst the herds<br />
would be difficult to miss two million<br />
wildebeest, sightings of the migration herds can<br />
never be guaranteed as the herds’ movements<br />
depends on their biological clock, the level of<br />
grazing, and timing and amount of rainfall.<br />
Whilst they follow a rough annual pattern it can<br />
change all the time. That said, our team knows<br />
the parks well and can choose camps in the<br />
correct location to maximise your chances of<br />
finding the herds.<br />
Mobile camps<br />
Staying in one of the Serengeti’s mobile safari<br />
camps is one of the best ways to see the<br />
migration. Moving every couple of months to<br />
locate themselves as close as possible to the<br />
herds, these camps offer the best chance of<br />
finding them during your safari. Due to the<br />
impermanent nature of the camps, don’t<br />
expect the ultimate luxury. This is all about an<br />
authentic safari experience and getting as close<br />
as you can to the wildlife. Your tent will have a<br />
comfortable bed, en suite bathroom with a<br />
bucket shower, a basin with a jug of warm water<br />
each morning and evening and hurricane lamps<br />
at night. As well as giving you an excellent<br />
location, sleeping under canvas and waking to<br />
the sunrise is one of the best ways to enjoy the<br />
magic of the Serengeti.<br />
River crossings<br />
The wildlife documentaries make watching a<br />
river crossing look easy. In reality, filmmakers<br />
spend months and even years waiting to be in<br />
the right place at the right time to capture the<br />
moment. Whilst seeing a river crossing is really<br />
the icing on the cake for most safari-goers, it’s<br />
important to be aware that the herds often<br />
spend weeks at the riverbanks contemplating<br />
the crossing. So unless you have endless time<br />
and money to spend waiting patiently, you will<br />
have to rely on luck and good timing if you hope<br />
to catch a crossing. If you want to maximise your<br />
chances of this, we would recommend staying in<br />
the Northern Serengeti in July, or in the Masai<br />
Mara in August or September.<br />
76
Wildebeest crossing the Mara River<br />
Wildebeest waiting to cross the Mara River<br />
Lion on a kill<br />
The Migration Calendar<br />
December to May – Breeding and Calving<br />
The cycle begins each year in the warm, dusty<br />
plains of the southern Serengeti, where almost<br />
half a million wildebeest are born between<br />
December and March. Up on their feet almost<br />
the moment they hit the ground, they ready<br />
themselves for the greatest journey of their lives.<br />
During these months, the herds are not on the<br />
move, but are gathering strength, grazing on the<br />
Ndutu Plains before the long rains arrive in April<br />
and May, turning the park green overnight.<br />
June – The Journey North<br />
As June arrives and the rains cease, the herds<br />
begin to sweep steadily through the savannah.<br />
Long ribbons of wildebeest, zebra and gazelle<br />
snake their way through tall grass, weaving their<br />
way towards the Grumeti River. Here, enormous<br />
crocodiles lie in wait, snapping their jaws on the<br />
riverbanks, a terrifying prospect for the herds<br />
to overcome.<br />
July – Crossing the Mara River<br />
As the plains become increasingly parched,<br />
thousands of stampeding hooves march<br />
northwards to the Masai Mara, where the great<br />
wall of the rift valley traps any final drops of rain.<br />
By July, the front-runners of the herds are<br />
preparing to cross the Mara River, whilst the<br />
rear-guard may be as far south as the Grumeti.<br />
The Mara River brings the herds to a halt, whilst<br />
they contemplate their fate. Strong currents,<br />
crocodiles and hippos provide a serious obstacle<br />
to reaching the lush grass on the opposite<br />
riverbank – this is the ultimate test for the herds.<br />
The animals can often wait for two weeks before<br />
crossing, approaching the river and turning back<br />
at the last moment with a kick of the heels and a<br />
puff of dust. Eventually, one brave wildebeest will<br />
take the plunge, followed swiftly by thousands,<br />
swimming desperately across the river.<br />
August to October – Grazing in<br />
Kenya’s Masai Mara<br />
By August and September, the migration is<br />
safely in the Masai Mara in Kenya, where the<br />
water provides fresh grazing throughout the lean<br />
months of the dry season. The herds move<br />
around the reserve, crossing the Talek and Mara<br />
rivers constantly in search of water and grass.<br />
This is also a feasting time for the big cats of the<br />
Masai Mara, making it a truly exciting time to be<br />
on safari here.<br />
November – The Journey South<br />
November brings the short rains, and new life to<br />
the grasslands of the southern Serengeti. The<br />
wildebeest, able to detect rain from more than<br />
50 kilometres away, return south, completing the<br />
circle. The two million pairs of hooves thunder<br />
through the Loliondo, Lobo and Piaya regions of<br />
the Northern Serengeti until they finally reach the<br />
rich volcanic soil of the Ndutu Plains once again.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 77
Zebra in the Ngorongoro Crater<br />
Ngorongoro Crater<br />
The Ngorongoro Crater is the world’s largest<br />
intact volcanic caldera and one of the most<br />
evocative landmarks of the Great Rift Valley. It<br />
provides an extraordinary natural sanctuary for<br />
some of Africa’s densest populations of large<br />
mammals. This is the best place in Tanzania to<br />
see black rhino, against the dramatic backdrop of<br />
the 600 metre high crater wall. The grassy plains<br />
host thousands of zebra, buffalo, wildebeest and<br />
Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelle. Elephant roam the<br />
Lerai Forest, and lion and leopard complete the<br />
big five. The wildlife here has to be seen to be<br />
believed, and makes the Ngorongoro Crater an<br />
unmissable part of the northern safari circuit.<br />
GIBBS FARM,<br />
NGORONGORO HIGHLANDS<br />
Surrounded by coffee plantations in the heart of<br />
the Ngorongoro Highlands, this is a working farm<br />
on which acres of organic fruit, vegetables and<br />
flowers are grown. Eighteen luxurious cottages<br />
are dotted around the farm, all enjoying views of<br />
the lush vegetation and tropical flowers. Each has<br />
been tastefully decorated with bright African<br />
fabrics, fireplaces to ward off cool evenings and<br />
spacious bathrooms with outdoor showers.<br />
Aside from visits to the Crater there are plenty<br />
of activities ranging from walks in the forests to<br />
visits to local Iraqw villages.<br />
PLANTATION LODGE,<br />
NGORONGORO HIGHLANDS<br />
Plantation Lodge is a charming small property<br />
tucked away in the Ngorongoro Highlands near<br />
the colourful village of Karatu. There are 16<br />
rooms spread out amongst the pretty gardens,<br />
and all are spacious and comfortable. The staff are<br />
friendly and welcoming, and the swimming pool<br />
offers a lovely place to relax when you’re not out<br />
on safari. Food is tasty and home-cooked, and<br />
both the Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara<br />
are easily accessible as day trips from the lodge.<br />
NGORONGORO CRATER LODGE,<br />
NGORONGORO CRATER<br />
Easily one of East Africa’s most luxurious safari<br />
lodges, the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge has a<br />
commanding position perched on the edge of<br />
the crater rim. The twelve lavish suites in North<br />
and South camp and the six suites in Tree Camp<br />
are fitted with antique furniture, thick rugs,<br />
chandeliers and claw footed baths in oak panelled<br />
bathrooms. Each suite is complete with a personal<br />
butler to light the fire, put fresh water in the<br />
flowers and serve drinks. The views from every<br />
suite and the opulently designed dining rooms<br />
are simply breathtaking.<br />
The pool at Plantation Lodge<br />
78<br />
The dining room at Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
Black rhino in the Ngorongoro Crater<br />
Flamingos on Lake Manyara<br />
Game drive in Tarangire National Park<br />
Lake Manyara Tree Lodge<br />
Manyara National Park<br />
One of Northern Tanzania’s smallest but prettiest<br />
national parks, Lake Manyara is situated at the<br />
base of the Rift Valley Escarpment. The alkaline<br />
lake is often covered in clouds of pink lesser<br />
flamingos, and is surrounded by marshland<br />
where hippos and buffalo wallow in the shallows.<br />
The diversity of vegetation here is remarkable,<br />
with grassy floodplains, acacia woodland and<br />
hot springs. Manyara is most famous for its<br />
tree-climbing lions, but has plenty of other wildlife<br />
to enjoy too, including prolific elephant, buffalo,<br />
zebra and giraffe. Birdlife here is also superb, with<br />
almost 400 recorded species including iridescent<br />
bee-eaters and silvery-cheeked hornbills.<br />
LAKE MANYARA TREE LODGE,<br />
MANYARA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Tucked away in the lush forest, this small luxurious<br />
lodge is the only accommodation within the park.<br />
Guests stay in one of ten treehouses, sitting high<br />
in the mahogany trees, with large verandahs,<br />
polished hardwood floors and pure cotton linen.<br />
Service and food here are excellent, with<br />
sumptuous meals eaten by candlelight in the open<br />
air boma. This is one of our favourite properties in<br />
Tanzania and is certainly a highlight for any safari.<br />
Lovebirds<br />
Oliver’s Camp<br />
Dwarf mongoose in Tarangire<br />
Tarangire National Park<br />
Tarangire really comes to life in the dry season,<br />
with water-seeking wildlife attracted to the<br />
abundant Tarangire River. The most impressive<br />
of the migratory mammals is the elephant, which<br />
congregates in large herds along the riverbanks –<br />
it is possible to see more than 500 in a day.<br />
Buffalo, zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, eland and impala<br />
are all found in good numbers on the grassy<br />
plains and the lush swamps are a year-round<br />
attraction, particularly for birdwatchers, with<br />
more than 550 recorded species. Ancient baobab<br />
trees dot the plains and in the distance, the Ol<br />
Doinyo L’Engai volcano makes a dramatic<br />
backdrop for photographers.<br />
OLIVER’S CAMP, TARANGIRE<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Located in the heart of Tarangire, Oliver’s<br />
Camp offers an excellent base for exploration<br />
of the park. With just eight luxury tents, this is a<br />
small and intimate camp where guests enjoy<br />
dining under the stars and waking as the sun rises<br />
over the park. As well as game drives, guided<br />
walking safaris can also be arranged to fully<br />
explore this stunning park. The mess tent is full<br />
of comfortable chairs and a cup of hot tea or a<br />
glass of ice-cold gin and tonic is always on hand<br />
after a long day on safari.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 79
Lion in a tree<br />
The Selous Game Reserve<br />
The Selous stretches for over 45,000 square<br />
kilometres. It is Africa’s largest game reserve yet<br />
visited by few. Meandering through the plains<br />
and woodlands, the Rufiji River gives rise to a<br />
labyrinth of streams, channels and pretty lakes in<br />
a delicate water paradise. Skeletal leadwood<br />
trees stand in glassy lagoons where terrapins<br />
ripple the surface. There are pods of hippo,<br />
rainbow-coloured birds and flitting butterflies on<br />
yellow cassia flowers. It is a vast wilderness area<br />
and superb for photography. The reserve is home<br />
to abundant game, with Africa’s largest buffalo<br />
and lion populations, numerous leopard and<br />
thriving packs of wild dog. Wildebeest, zebra,<br />
impala, hartebeest, greater kudu and eland are<br />
all common. In the heat of the afternoon, herds<br />
of over fifty giraffe drink from the lakes whilst<br />
elephant herds cross the channels to the lush<br />
islands. Boat trips are a speciality in the Selous<br />
and floating quietly along on the water is magical.<br />
You will see yellow-billed storks nesting in<br />
borassus palms and white-crowned plovers<br />
cleaning the teeth of crocodiles. The riverine<br />
forest is perfect for gentle rambles in search of<br />
blue samango monkeys and black and white<br />
colobus. Driving in open 4x4’s you will see<br />
plenty of game but no other vehicles, as the<br />
Selous is a very peaceful park with only a<br />
handful of small camps.<br />
80<br />
Selous Impala Camp<br />
LAKE MANZE CAMP, SELOUS<br />
GAME RESERVE<br />
This camp has 12 simple tents on the shores<br />
of Lake Manze. Shaded by doum palms and<br />
terminalia trees, all are well spread out and<br />
have lake views. Inside, each tent is furnished<br />
with double or twin beds and has an en suite<br />
bathroom with flush toilet and hot shower.<br />
A patio at the front of each room is the perfect<br />
spot for reading a book in the early afternoon<br />
and watching the hippos and herons at the<br />
lakeshore. The camp is ideal for first time visitors<br />
to Africa as guests can enjoy a variety of activities<br />
including game drives, boat safaris and early<br />
morning walks.<br />
SELOUS IMPALA CAMP, SELOUS<br />
GAME RESERVE<br />
Selous Impala Camp is set among borassus palms<br />
and tamarind trees on the banks of the Rufiji<br />
River. As there are no fences, game is free to<br />
wander through the camp and therefore guests<br />
are escorted to their tents in the evenings by<br />
Maasai warriors. The camp has eight luxury tents<br />
set on high wood decking with views of the river<br />
and the forest beyond. They are furnished in a<br />
colonial style and have bedrooms, a dressing<br />
room and an en suite bathroom. In the centre of<br />
camp the thatched boma houses a dining room<br />
and bar. Nearby is a sheltered swimming pool.<br />
Activities include boat trips, game drives and<br />
walking safaris.<br />
Game drive from Lake Manze Camp
Kudu in the Selous<br />
Hyena on a buffalo carcass<br />
Hippo beside the Rufiji River<br />
Dining at Beho Beho<br />
Elephant in the Selous<br />
Selous Safari Camp<br />
SELOUS SAFARI CAMP, SELOUS<br />
GAME RESERVE<br />
Selous Safari Camp was one of the first camps<br />
in the Selous and has one of the prime positions<br />
in the park on the fringes of Lake Nzelekela.<br />
The 12 luxurious tents are some of the largest<br />
in Africa, tailored specifically for the camp with<br />
huge gauze windows looking onto the lake.<br />
Inside, the tents are elegantly furnished and have<br />
well-appointed en suite bathrooms with outdoor<br />
showers. The lounge and dining room are raised<br />
above the trees on stilts to maximise the breeze<br />
in hotter months and there is a small pool tucked<br />
into the bush. With plenty of activities on offer,<br />
this is one of our favourite camps in the Selous.<br />
BEHO BEHO CAMP, SELOUS<br />
GAME RESERVE<br />
Set up amongst the hills, Beho Beho has a unique<br />
vantage point overlooking the Beho Beho Plains.<br />
It is the most luxurious camp in the Selous with<br />
large stone cottages beautifully designed and<br />
furnished with no expense spared. At the front<br />
of each cottage a huge open window has no<br />
gauze or glass – just panoramic views. Guests can<br />
choose to leave this open to the stars at night or<br />
have thick canvas drapes tied down to feel more<br />
secure. The true magic of Beho Beho however is<br />
not the lodge but the exceptional quality of the<br />
guides. After each game drive you’ll come away<br />
knowing something new.<br />
Boat trip from Sand Rivers<br />
View from a room at Sand Rivers<br />
SAND RIVERS, SELOUS<br />
GAME RESERVE<br />
With eight rooms, Sand Rivers is the smallest<br />
camp in the Selous. Situated on a wide curve in<br />
the Rufiji River, all the rooms look over the water.<br />
Each room is open on one side and has large<br />
beds, nets and en suite bathrooms with polished<br />
stone floors. It’s not unusual for birds to flit in<br />
and out and look at themselves in the bathroom<br />
mirror. During a stay at Sand Rivers, a private<br />
guide is always provided. You can take a boat trip<br />
up to Steigler’s Gorge, walk on the open plains,<br />
swim in the Tagalala hot springs and enjoy trips<br />
by open 4x4 vehicles.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 81
Zebra on the plains<br />
The Ruaha National Park<br />
In the heart of southern Tanzania, the Ruaha<br />
National Park has a hot dry climate and<br />
dramatic scenery. The Ruaha River runs along<br />
the park’s southeast border, tumbling over<br />
boulders and flanked by riparian woodland. Lion<br />
can be seen stretched out in the sun on the<br />
sandbanks, elephant drink from the water.<br />
Flocks of yellow-collared lovebirds swoop from<br />
bush to bush. Game is prolific with many<br />
ungulates present, including impala, waterbuck,<br />
bushbuck, giraffe, zebra and buffalo. Both greater<br />
and lesser kudu are here, as are roan and sable<br />
antelope. There are large prides of lion, spotted<br />
and striped hyena, several packs of wild dog, and<br />
leopard. The birdlife is particularly colourful and<br />
it is not unusual to spot many species while<br />
sitting in camp, such as emerald spotted doves,<br />
brown parrots and crested barbets. Activities in<br />
Ruaha focus on game drives although walking<br />
is also possible.<br />
Kwihala<br />
82<br />
MWAGUSI CAMP, RUAHA<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Mwagusi Camp is a small tented camp on the<br />
banks of the dry Mwagusi River. Owned and run<br />
by naturalist Chris Fox, this camp is comfortable<br />
but the focus is not on frills and luxury. Chris’s<br />
passion is for wildlife and this is what this camp is<br />
all about – it’s ideal for experienced safari hands<br />
and animal enthusiasts. The nine tents are shaded<br />
by thatch and have beds, nets, en suite bathrooms<br />
and verandas with comfy chairs. It is lovely sitting<br />
on your veranda and watching the birds hopping<br />
about in the trees above you. Activities are well<br />
organised at Mwagusi with both guides and<br />
spotters on the game viewing vehicles, and<br />
guiding of a high standard.<br />
KWIHALA, RUAHA<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Kwihala offers luxury in Ruaha, and has six<br />
spacious safari tents. There are plenty of charming<br />
small touches in the tents, from the hand-printed<br />
baobab bedspreads to beaded door handles.<br />
Outside, a covered veranda area is insect-proofed<br />
and protected from the elements by a fly sheet.<br />
The spacious mess tent is the main social centre of<br />
the camp. Separate dining and relaxing areas create<br />
a homely feel although canvas walls and open sides<br />
leave you with no doubt that you’re in the bush.<br />
With good guides this camp is ideal for those<br />
looking to explore Ruaha from a comfortable base.<br />
Mwagusi Camp<br />
MDONYA OLD RIVER CAMP,<br />
RUAHA NATIONAL PARK<br />
This wild camp has 11 tents situated under<br />
sycamore fig and acacia trees. With no electricity,<br />
it has the feel of an original safari camp, and is lit<br />
at night by candles, paraffin lamps and a camp fire.<br />
The dining and lounge tents overlook a dry river<br />
bed which acts as a busy wildlife corridor. There<br />
are currently two prides of lion living close to<br />
camp which can often be heard at night – this<br />
camp is not therefore suited to nervous travellers.<br />
Mdonya Old River Camp
Chimpanzee with baby in the Mahale Mountains<br />
Chada Camp<br />
Katavi National Park<br />
Deep in western Tanzania, the Katavi National<br />
Park is extremely wild. Arriving by light aircraft,<br />
you’ll pass over the Katasunga Plains before<br />
landing. Spread out before you are yellow<br />
grasslands covered with thousands of zebra,<br />
topi, buffalo and giraffe. Lions lie on the fringes,<br />
watching and waiting, shaded by mahogany trees.<br />
With only two tiny camps in a million acres,<br />
Katavi sees few visitors and you can have an<br />
immense wilderness all to yourself. Katavi is a<br />
classic dry season reserve. From June to October,<br />
buffalo herds of up to 3,000 graze on the plains.<br />
Game drives offer superb photographic<br />
opportunities whilst walks beside sluggish rivers<br />
are exciting, with large crocodiles hiding in<br />
mudholes. As the sun falls low in the sky, a visit<br />
to the hippo pool, where 600 hippos live, is<br />
perfect for a sundowner.<br />
CHADA CAMP, KATAVI<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Chada Camp is hidden by sausage trees and<br />
overlooks the plains. The six safari tents have high<br />
beds, simple furniture and are decked with bright<br />
East African fabrics. Outside each, there is a<br />
simple tin basin and small washstand. A little way<br />
behind each tent is a private bathroom, made of<br />
reed, sticks and soft grass. The main dining area<br />
is under canvas and strewn with books, maps,<br />
seedpods and a big chest full of drinks. Not<br />
fenced, it’s wonderfully wild and old-fashioned.<br />
Accompanied by top guides, both walks and<br />
drives are excellent.<br />
Mahale Mountains Park<br />
Shadowing the dusky blue waters of Lake<br />
Tanganyika, the Mahale Mountains are dramatic<br />
and imposing. Jagged peaks of over 2,000 metres<br />
soar into the clouds and are covered in canopy<br />
woodland and thick montane forest. Shafts of<br />
sunlight pour through the trees into tiny gullies<br />
where pink and yellow butterflies flit and you can<br />
see each and every pebble in the crystal clear<br />
streams. The Mahale Mountains are the best<br />
place in Africa in which to track and observe wild<br />
chimpanzees. There is a population of around<br />
1,000; one troop of which, the Mimikire clan<br />
(around 70-100 individuals), have been habituated<br />
to humans and can be tracked and observed from<br />
close quarters. Climbing up the leafy tracks in the<br />
misty morning and hearing your first chimpanzee<br />
shriek is something you will never forget.<br />
Crouching low, you can watch them grooming,<br />
drinking and playing. After a morning of<br />
chimpanzee tracking you return to the shores of<br />
Lake Tanganyika, where sugar-white beaches slope<br />
into gin-clear waters. There are over 500 species<br />
of cichlid fish in the lake, and snorkelling and<br />
floating amongst them is the ultimate in relaxation.<br />
GREYSTOKE CAMP,<br />
MAHALE MOUNTAINS<br />
Greystoke Camp is situated on an idyllic white<br />
beach on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Cream<br />
safari tents under palms have deep chairs, comfy<br />
beds, tin washbasins and buckets for washing the<br />
sand off your feet. At sunrise your breakfast is<br />
cooked over a fire on the beach, after which<br />
trackers lead you into the forest in search of<br />
chimpanzees. In the afternoons you can snorkel<br />
from the camp’s beautiful dhow or enjoy a<br />
snooze on the warm deck.<br />
The dining room at Greystoke Camp<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 83
Zanzibar beach<br />
The Zanzibar Archipelago<br />
Fifty islands make up the Zanzibar archipelago,<br />
which lies in aquamarine seas under a blazing<br />
equatorial sun. Just 20 miles off the Tanzanian<br />
coast, the archipelago is easily accessible and<br />
therefore ideal for a relaxing end to a safari. The<br />
two large islands of Zanzibar and Pemba are well<br />
known and have a bustling island life, with ancient<br />
towns, small villages, spice plantations and miles<br />
of sandy beaches. Surrounding these two large<br />
islands are numerous tiny coral atolls with names<br />
such as Chumbe, Chapwani, Bawe and Mnemba.<br />
Some of these, such as Mnemba, have exclusive<br />
hotels whilst others are home only to seabirds<br />
and nesting turtles and can be reached by<br />
relaxing dhow trips. The seas are littered with<br />
reefs, with pink sea anemones swaying in warm<br />
currents and butterflyfish, angelfish and<br />
parrotfish darting between the corals.<br />
Zanzibar Island<br />
The largest of all the islands in the archipelago,<br />
Zanzibar Island is 80 kilometres long and 30<br />
kilometres wide. It is covered in coconut<br />
plantations, spice farms and lush vegetation.<br />
Pretty roads run through avenues of mangoes<br />
and the forest at Jozani, where endemic Kirk’s<br />
red colobus can be seen, while the coastline has<br />
picture perfect beaches. Miles of white sand lead<br />
into shallow turquoise water lined with offshore<br />
reefs. Small fishing villages have nets hanging from<br />
crooked wooden racks and chickens and ducks<br />
waddling about. At high tide all the dhows sail in<br />
and lively bartering for the day’s catch ensues.<br />
Zanzibar has more than just beaches, however.<br />
Monsoon winds blowing from Persia, Arabia and<br />
India have led traders to these islands for over<br />
2,000 years. In Zanzibar’s Stone Town, labyrinth<br />
alleys lead to sultans’ residences with thick stone<br />
walls and intricately carved doors. Inland, there<br />
are spice plantations where piles of curling<br />
cinnamon bark and nutmegs lie in the sun.<br />
Zanzibar is spectacular at sunset, as hundreds of<br />
dhows set sail for the night, their billowing white<br />
sails tinged pink by the sun. Relax, unwind and<br />
enjoy the view, as the warm breeze blows around<br />
you. Just a short flight from some of Tanzania’s<br />
wildest parks, Zanzibar is perhaps the ultimate<br />
finale to any safari.<br />
Seaweed farming on Zanzibar<br />
84
The game of bao The beach at Breezes Beach Club & Spa Fresh fish for sale<br />
Fishing dhows<br />
BREEZES BEACH CLUB & SPA,<br />
BWEJUU, ZANZIBAR<br />
This pretty resort has 70 rooms but manages<br />
to feel like somewhere half its size thanks to its<br />
low-key, friendly atmosphere. It stands on an<br />
idyllic stretch of beach on Zanzibar’s southeast<br />
coast. Rooms at Breezes are set in the gardens<br />
and are tastefully decorated in ivory tones, with<br />
cotton throws, teak and Zanzibari carvings. All<br />
are air-conditioned and have en suite bathrooms.<br />
There are plenty of activities on offer including<br />
diving, snorkelling, sailing and windsurfing. Those<br />
looking to relax can do so at the pool, on the<br />
beach or with a treatment in the spa. With<br />
several excellent restaurants, this hotel is very<br />
popular and many guests return year after year.<br />
Villa at The Palms<br />
BARAZA, BWEJUU, ZANZIBAR<br />
Baraza is a unique 30 villa resort built in a<br />
distinctive Zanzibari style and is an ideal place for<br />
families or groups of friends wanting to enjoy a bit<br />
of luxury. All the air-conditioned villas have one<br />
or two bedrooms, living room, dressing rooms<br />
and en suite bathrooms with a free standing tub.<br />
They are elegantly decorated with beautiful fabrics<br />
and hand-carved furniture. Outside there are<br />
shady terraces, sunloungers and a private plunge<br />
pool. Facilities at Baraza are extensive and include<br />
a swimming pool, spa, tennis court, watersports<br />
centre, PADI dive centre and boutique.<br />
Snorkelling excursions, trips to spice farms and<br />
more can all be arranged.<br />
Bar, Breezes Beach Club & Spa<br />
THE PALMS, BWEJUU, ZANZIBAR<br />
Situated in tropical gardens The Palms provides<br />
some of the most luxurious accommodation on<br />
Zanzibar. The hotel has just six villas, each<br />
wonderfully large and containing a bedroom, living<br />
room, dressing room and en suite bathroom.<br />
On the veranda, a silk-draped four-poster<br />
Zanzibari bed sits alongside a sunken plunge pool.<br />
The Palms prides itself on its cuisine and the<br />
restaurant, The Plantation House, serves excellent<br />
Swahili and international dishes. The adjacent<br />
Spice Bar is perfect for relaxing with a sundowner<br />
drink. Guests can also enjoy all the facilities at the<br />
neighbouring sister property Breezes.<br />
Baraza<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 85
Kirk’s red colobus monkey in the Jozani Forest<br />
Drying seaweed<br />
Schoolgirls walking home<br />
86<br />
Cottage at Echo Beach Hotel<br />
ECHO BEACH HOTEL,<br />
BWEJUU, ZANZIBAR<br />
Echo Beach Hotel is small, simple and will suit<br />
those looking for a quiet hideaway. It sits in five<br />
acres of gardens on Bwejuu, one of Zanzibar’s<br />
prettiest beaches, and has 12 rooms in<br />
whitewashed cottages under coconut palms.<br />
Each has a shady terrace or balcony where you<br />
can sit with a drink and watch the dhows bobbing<br />
on the horizon. The kitchen is overseen by the<br />
owner Andrew and meals are tailored to the<br />
fishermen’s daily catch, with fresh fruit and<br />
vegetables from the market also used. The lodge<br />
is ideal for those looking to relax beside a pool,<br />
although diving, dhow trips and visits to spice<br />
farms are easily arranged.<br />
UNGUJA LODGE,<br />
KIZIMKAZI, ZANZIBAR<br />
This boutique hotel is set amongst baobab and<br />
mango trees which are popular with red colobus<br />
monkeys. Run by Elies Hagedoorn along strong<br />
ethical principles, this lodge is not only welcoming<br />
but well integrated into the local Kizimkazi<br />
community. There are ten villas, a restaurant, bar,<br />
swimming pool and Five-Star PADI dive centre.<br />
All the villas have a bedroom, sitting room,<br />
en suite bathroom and a second floor where<br />
children can sleep. Private terraces overlook the<br />
sea or gardens. The lodge is ideally suited to<br />
families or those wanting to enjoy lots of activities<br />
including diving, snorkelling, dolphin watching and<br />
guided village tours.<br />
The pool at Unguja Lodge
Stone Town from the sea<br />
Fresh nutmeg Arabica Room at the Zanzibar Palace Hotel Zanzibari door<br />
Stone Town, Zanzibar<br />
Flanked on two sides by the sea, Stone Town is<br />
a place that divides opinion. Many are enchanted<br />
by the heavily laden dhows that sail in and out<br />
of port, and the tall crumbling buildings and<br />
labyrinthine streets lined with tiny shops. Others<br />
dislike the bustle of so many people, the dirt,<br />
noise and commotion. Whatever your opinion, it<br />
is likely to be a strong one – Stone Town leaves<br />
nobody ambivalent. Much of the town was built<br />
in the 19th century and remains unchanged to<br />
this day. A maze of alleyways lead between tall<br />
houses and palaces whose intricately carved<br />
wooden doors have brass studs and heavy locks.<br />
There is no room for cars in these streets so<br />
exploring is done on foot. There is plenty to see,<br />
from museums to the early morning market<br />
which is as busy as it is colourful. Hessian sacks<br />
overflow with black pepper, turmeric, cinnamon<br />
and vanilla and traders sell everything from fresh<br />
ginger to huge fish. At the end of the day, you<br />
might choose to stroll to the Forodhani Gardens.<br />
As the sun sets, street vendors light fires and<br />
braziers, on which they grill squid, octopus and<br />
lobster. Enjoy a snack or two before heading off<br />
to one of Stone Town’s excellent restaurants.<br />
ZANZIBAR PALACE HOTEL,<br />
STONE TOWN<br />
Tucked away in the Kiponda area of Stone<br />
Town this hotel is in a beautifully restored<br />
Zanzibari house. Owners Co and Frans aim to<br />
provide a personal service, getting to know<br />
guests themselves and making sure they are well<br />
looked after. Each of the nine bedrooms has its<br />
own character, but all are decorated in Swahili<br />
style. Carved dark wood, stained glass, and<br />
jewel-coloured drapes are dotted around the<br />
hotel, giving it a modern-day Arabian Nights feel.<br />
The hotel is close to the main shopping streets<br />
and is within easy walking distance of some<br />
good local restaurants.<br />
BEIT AL CHAI, STONE TOWN<br />
Beit Al Chai has been sympathetically converted<br />
from its original use as a Swahili teahouse. It is<br />
located on a corner in Stone Town’s pretty Kelele<br />
Square which is shaded by hibiscus and tamarind<br />
trees and is a peaceful spot. The hotel has six en<br />
suite bedrooms furnished with antiques dating<br />
back to the days of the Swahili Empire. There is a<br />
small breakfast courtyard, and drinks are available<br />
in the living room. If your feet are too tired from<br />
exploring to go out for dinner, the hotel has a<br />
new restaurant with an Arabic theme, offering an<br />
upmarket dining experience.<br />
Room at The Serena Inn<br />
SERENA INN, STONE TOWN<br />
The Serena occupies a prime location perched<br />
between the town and the sea. It is an attractive<br />
building converted from the old doctor’s house.<br />
There are polished marble floors, sweeping<br />
staircases, a lovely seaview restaurant and big<br />
swimming pool. The rooms are comfortable with<br />
air-conditioning, en suite bathrooms and large<br />
balconies. At sunset, dhows frequently sail past<br />
the hotel.<br />
Beit al Chai<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 87
School girls on the beach<br />
A beach suite at Fundu Lagoon<br />
Pemba Island<br />
About 80 kilometres northeast of Zanzibar,<br />
Pemba is quiet and undeveloped. It has a gentle<br />
hilly landscape and has always been seen as a<br />
more fertile place than its larger neighbour. The<br />
early Arab sailors called it ‘El Huthera’, meaning<br />
‘The Green’. <strong>Travel</strong>ling across Pemba, you are<br />
immediately struck by the number of rural farming<br />
and fishing villages. At harvest time, great swathes<br />
of cloves lie drying in the sun and fill the air with<br />
their scent. Mangos in piles over six feet high wait<br />
by the roadsides to be trucked to the port at<br />
Mkoani and then shipped over to the mainland.<br />
Fields are dotted with women in bright kangas<br />
attending to crops while wooden pirogues and<br />
dhows glide gently over the turquoise seas.<br />
Pemba has few lodges and nearly all of the<br />
beaches are deserted. Offshore, coral islands have<br />
white sand and nesting turtles at night. The deep<br />
Pemba Channel is rich with coral reefs and offers<br />
some of the best diving in East Africa.<br />
88<br />
FUNDU LAGOON, PEMBA ISLAND<br />
Fundu Lagoon is a stylish property that is ideal<br />
for honeymooners looking for a quiet hideaway.<br />
Situated on a long beach flanked by mangrove, it<br />
has a large jetty stretching over the water with a<br />
bar halfway along it. There are eighteen designer<br />
tents, set under makuti roofs on wooden decks.<br />
The rooms have stylish décor and en suite<br />
bathrooms with a selection of aromatherapy<br />
soaps and lotions. Fundu’s main areas are all built<br />
under thatch and are large and airy, overlooking<br />
the sea. There is a dive centre, small spa and<br />
infinity pool on the hillside with spectacular<br />
views over the coast.<br />
Manta Resort<br />
MANTA RESORT, PEMBA ISLAND<br />
Manta Resort is situated on the northern tip of<br />
Pemba on arguably its best beach. It is a stylish,<br />
20 bedroom property set in pretty gardens. The<br />
best rooms overlook the sea and have large airy<br />
bedrooms leading onto sunny verandas. This is a<br />
wonderful place to relax, either with an ice cold<br />
drink in the heat of the day or a glass of wine at<br />
night. In the centre of the resort, a small spa<br />
offers relaxing treatments and the good sized<br />
pool is ideal for relaxing beside with a book.<br />
There are plenty of activities including diving,<br />
snorkelling and dhow sailing. As the sun sets you<br />
can make your way to the quirky beach bar on<br />
the sand for a cocktail before dinner.
The beach at Kinasi Lodge<br />
The Mafia Archipelago<br />
The Mafia islands lie quietly in the Indian Ocean<br />
just a 40 minute flight from Dar es Salaam.<br />
Virtually unknown, the names of Bwejuu,<br />
Mbarakum, Juani, Jibondo and Mafia mean little<br />
to most people. Yet these islands make up a<br />
beautiful archipelago, tiny jewels resting in an<br />
azure sea. Covered in rich rainforest, thick<br />
grasslands and giant baobab trees, the islands are<br />
dotted with tiny villages. Sunbirds flit through the<br />
trees, five species of endemic butterflies can be<br />
found and bushbabies call at night.<br />
On the coast, sandy beaches are flanked by<br />
mangroves and fishermen sit on the white sand<br />
mending nets or making coconut coir rope.<br />
Strings of drying octopus blow in the breeze and<br />
dhows sail from island to island, carrying children<br />
to school at sunrise and back home at sunset.<br />
All that said, it is in the turquoise waters that<br />
you will find the islands’ biggest attractions.<br />
Unspoiled barrier reefs surround the islands, rich<br />
in soft corals, sea anemones and sponges and<br />
attracting a dazzling array of fish. Potato groupers,<br />
hump-headed parrotfish and giant batfish are just<br />
some of those you might see while snorkelling,<br />
and turtles, rays and dolphins are never far away.<br />
Pole Pole Lodge<br />
POLE POLE LODGE,<br />
MAFIA ISLAND<br />
The clock on the wall at Pole Pole always says<br />
a quarter to eight, and quite aptly so, for at this<br />
lodge, time is unimportant. Seven sleepy<br />
bungalows stand on a small hill, shaded by palms<br />
and overlooking white sand and the sea. Inside,<br />
the bungalows are spacious and stylish and have<br />
large beds with Italian linen, muslin nets and<br />
bathrooms with brass fittings. The main dining<br />
area is open-sided and serves excellent food, with<br />
fresh seafood, mangos and honey pancakes just<br />
some of the specialities. Activities at Pole Pole are<br />
relaxed. There is an old dhow – Sayari – that<br />
floats gently to reefs and sandbanks for lazy<br />
mornings of snorkelling, diving and swimming.<br />
KINASI LODGE, MAFIA ISLAND<br />
Kinasi Lodge has 14 rustic bungalows situated in<br />
idyllic gardens sloping down to a small sandy<br />
beach. Each bungalow has big beds, old chests,<br />
cool stone floors, spacious bathrooms and large<br />
shady verandas with big hammocks. The central<br />
lodge houses a bar, dining room and extensive<br />
library. There’s a small pool, dive centre and a<br />
few sailing boats, while activities on offer include<br />
diving, snorkelling and swimming trips.<br />
Arriving on Mafia Island<br />
Kinasi Lodge<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 89
TANZANIA<br />
Zanzibar<br />
Dar es<br />
Salaam<br />
Selous Game Reserve<br />
Viewing lion on a game drive<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Tanzania specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 545<br />
Getting around<br />
Tanzania’s safari areas can be divided into the<br />
northern, southern and western ‘circuits’ and<br />
there are different ways to explore each. The<br />
‘northern circuit’ comprises the Serengeti,<br />
Ngorongoro, Tarangire and Lake Manyara parks.<br />
Tar and dirt roads connect them all and a typical<br />
way to explore is with a guide driving you from<br />
one to another in a modified Landrover. A typical<br />
one week itinerary would explore Lake Manyara,<br />
the Ngorongoro Crater and end in the Serengeti.<br />
Rather than retracing your steps afterwards, we<br />
would then recommend flying out to the coast<br />
or on to further wildlife areas.<br />
The ‘southern circuit’ comprises Selous and Ruaha<br />
and as distances are large and roads poor, the<br />
best way to combine them is by flying between<br />
the two. Light aircraft fly to these reserves each<br />
day and operate a ‘bus stop’ system, picking up<br />
and dropping off at camp airstrips. A typical safari<br />
in the south might include four or five days in the<br />
Selous followed by three in the Ruaha. Numerous<br />
flights go from both parks to Zanzibar and the<br />
Mafia Islands, making it easy to combine the south<br />
with the coast. The ‘western circuit’ comprises<br />
Katavi National Park and the Mahale Mountains.<br />
They are hundreds of miles from anywhere so<br />
access is always by light aircraft. Planes are<br />
scheduled each week to access these parks.<br />
90<br />
Cheetah in the Serengeti<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✓ ✓ ✓ ✕ ✕ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Tanzania has a pleasant tropical climate. As it is<br />
near the equator, there is little temperature<br />
fluctuation between summer and winter, with<br />
temperatures ranging from about 25C to 30C<br />
all year round. There are regional variations,<br />
however, with the coastal belt being hotter<br />
and more humid, inland areas dryer and cooler,<br />
and the mountains sometimes chilly at night.<br />
Tanzania has two rainy seasons, the short rains<br />
in November and December and the long rains<br />
from February to March. The heaviest downpours<br />
occur in April and May and many lodges close<br />
during this time.<br />
Time difference: GMT+3 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 9 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Tanzania on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Selous & Zanzibar Explorer<br />
This itinerary combines a wild safari with time on<br />
the beach. It is ideal for first time visitors to Africa<br />
or those looking for a relaxing trip with plenty of<br />
wildlife but minimal travel. Four nights in the Selous<br />
Game Reserve enable you to enjoy game viewing<br />
and a number of activities including boat trips,<br />
game drives and walking safaris. The Selous is a<br />
short flight from Zanzibar, where your beach time<br />
begins. Seven days is an ideal length of stay on<br />
Zanzibar as it gives you plenty of time to relax and<br />
to enjoy the activities that the island has to offer.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-5<br />
Days 6-10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Fly from the UK to Dar es<br />
Salaam overnight.<br />
Arrive in Dar es Salaam. Fly to the<br />
Selous Game Reserve for four nights<br />
at Lake Manze Camp. Explore the<br />
Selous on game drives, walking safaris<br />
and boat trips.<br />
Fly to Zanzibar for five nights at<br />
Echo Beach. Swim, snorkel and relax<br />
beside the pool or on the beach.<br />
Road transfer to Stone Town for<br />
one night at the Zanzibar Palace,<br />
Stone Town.<br />
Fly to Dar es Salaam and then in<br />
to the UK. Arrive in the UK in the<br />
early evening.<br />
Stay longer<br />
If you would like to extend your trip, one of the<br />
easiest ways to do it is by adding three nights in<br />
the Ruaha National Park at the start or midway<br />
through. Ruaha is a good contrast to Selous as it is<br />
largely a dry reserve with big herds of buffalo and<br />
particularly large prides of lion. The game in the<br />
dry season congregates along the Ruaha River<br />
making drives on the river banks rewarding.<br />
Zebra in the sunlight
Suggested itineraries<br />
Serengeti<br />
National Park<br />
Ngorongoro Crater<br />
Arusha<br />
Lake Manyara<br />
Zanzibar<br />
Dar es Salaam<br />
TANZANIA<br />
TANZANIA<br />
Ruaha National Park<br />
Selous Game Reserve<br />
Dar es Salaam<br />
Mafia<br />
Island<br />
Mahale<br />
Mountains<br />
Airstrip<br />
Mahale Mountains<br />
Katavi National Park<br />
TANZANIA<br />
Arusha<br />
Zanzibar<br />
Dar es Salaam<br />
ZAMBIA<br />
Classic Northern Tanzania<br />
This trip is a classic exploration of Tanzania’s most<br />
famous parks. It is ideal for a first time visitor to<br />
Africa as it encompasses dramatic landscapes,<br />
prolific wildlife and a variety of different activities.<br />
A guide will drive you in a modified Landrover<br />
into Lake Manyara National Park, the Ngorongoro<br />
Crater and the Serengeti Game Reserve. Each<br />
reserve is different both in terms of landscape<br />
and the wildlife found there. En route you’ll have<br />
the chance to stop off at local towns, barter in<br />
markets and visit Maasai in their traditional villages.<br />
After an adventurous safari in the north, you fly to<br />
Zanzibar where you can spend a week relaxing<br />
on the beach.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Days 5-7<br />
Days 8-14<br />
Day 15<br />
Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />
Arrive in Nairobi and fly to Arusha.<br />
Meet your guide and drive to Onsea<br />
House for one night.<br />
Guided drive to Lake Manyara<br />
National Park for a full day game<br />
viewing. Onward drive to Plantation<br />
Lodge for two nights.<br />
Full day’s game viewing trip to the<br />
Ngorongoro Crater.<br />
Drive to the Serengeti Game<br />
Reserve for three nights at Olakira<br />
Camp. Explore the Serengeti on<br />
game drives.<br />
Fly to Zanzibar for seven nights at<br />
Breezes Beach Club & Spa, Zanzibar.<br />
Swim, snorkel and relax beside the<br />
pool or on the beach.<br />
Fly to Dar es Salaam and then on<br />
to the UK. Arrive in the UK in the<br />
early evening.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Instead of ending your trip on Zanzibar, you could<br />
fly to the Mafia Islands instead. These islands are<br />
ideal for a really peaceful hideaway. Whilst the<br />
beaches are not as spectacular as those on<br />
Zanzibar, the snorkelling and diving is some of the<br />
best on the East African coast. You can immerse<br />
yourself in village life, meeting the residents or<br />
watching the local dhow builders at work. At night,<br />
look across Chole Bay where fuzzy faced fruitbats<br />
leave their roost on Chole Island to feed on the<br />
fruit trees of Mafia and other islands.<br />
Classic Southern Tanzania<br />
This trip explores Selous and Ruaha in Southern<br />
Tanzania and is suited to wildlife enthusiasts.<br />
The camps have been chosen for their locations<br />
in the heart of the parks and their excellent<br />
guiding. The Selous offers fabulous birding and<br />
boat trips whilst the main focus of Ruaha is big<br />
game viewed from open 4x4s. The trip ends at<br />
Kinasi Lodge on Mafia Island which is particularly<br />
good for snorkelling. Sail out to the reefs in Chole<br />
Bay by dhow and see parrotfish, potato groupers,<br />
batfish, butterflyfish, angelfish and more. This is a<br />
wonderful trip for those looking to immerse<br />
themselves in the wilderness.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2-4<br />
Day 5-7<br />
Day 8-13<br />
Day 14<br />
Fly from the UK to Dar es Salaam<br />
overnight.<br />
Arrive in Dar es Salaam and fly to the<br />
Selous Game Reserve for three nights<br />
at Selous Safari Camp. Explore the<br />
Selous on game drives and boat trips.<br />
Fly to Ruaha National Park for three<br />
nights at Kwihala. Game viewing in<br />
Ruaha National Park.<br />
Fly to Mafia Island for six nights at<br />
Kinasi Lodge. Time relaxing or<br />
enjoying activities on Mafia Island.<br />
Fly to Dar es Salaam and on to<br />
the UK. Arrive in the UK in the<br />
early evening.<br />
Stay longer<br />
One way to extend this itinerary would be to<br />
add three nights at a beautiful beach lodge on the<br />
Tanzanian mainland. Ras Kutani is a 20 minute<br />
flight south of Dar es Salaam and is the ideal place<br />
in which to recover from an international flight.<br />
The lodge has beautiful rooms with ocean views,<br />
and a long sandy beach. Cuisine is excellent at<br />
Ras Kutani, with an emphasis on seafood. and<br />
fresh lobster, crab, squid and prawns are often<br />
on the menu.<br />
Chimpanzees of<br />
Western Tanzania<br />
Western Tanzania is extremely wild and well<br />
suited to people who have been to Africa before.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to the west is not cheap, but a trip here<br />
is a once in a lifetime experience. Katavi has herds<br />
of thousands of buffalo, rivers with mud holes full<br />
of enormous crocodiles, and pods of hippo by the<br />
hundred. The beauty of Mahale defies belief: virgin<br />
rainforests filled with chimpanzees drop to white<br />
sand beaches and the clear waters of Lake<br />
Tanganyika. After time in the west we have<br />
suggested four nights at one of Zanzibar’s luxurious<br />
beach retreats – a perfect end to the trip.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Days 3-5<br />
Day 6-9<br />
Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />
Connect with a flight to Arusha and<br />
drive to Onsea House for one night.<br />
Fly to Katavi National Park for three<br />
nights at Chada Camp. Explore Katavi<br />
on game drives and walking safaris.<br />
Fly to Mahale Mountains Airstrip and<br />
take a boat to Greystoke Camp for<br />
four nights. Chimpanzee tracking in<br />
Mahale Mountains.<br />
Days 10-13 Fly to Zanzibar for four nights at<br />
Matemwe Bungalows. Swim,<br />
snorkel and relax beside the pool<br />
or on the beach.<br />
Day 14<br />
Fly to Dar es Salaam and on to the<br />
UK, arriving in the early evening.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Before flying to the west of Tanzania, enjoy some<br />
time on safari in the Serengeti. From December<br />
to May thousands of wildebeest converge on the<br />
southern plains of the park to breed and calve<br />
before starting the long journey north to the<br />
Masai Mara. Watch this spectacular sight from a<br />
mobile tented camp placed in the heart of the<br />
migration. The Serengeti provides a real contrast<br />
to both parks in the west and makes an ideal<br />
addition to this trip.<br />
Wild dog in the Selous<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 91
Kenya<br />
Kenya is the country of wildlife<br />
documentaries and the home of the<br />
safari. It is everything you imagine Africa<br />
to be, with vast plains covered in thousands<br />
of wildebeest and gazelle, cheetah sitting on<br />
termite mounds, lions flat on their back in<br />
the sun and giraffe in the shade of acacias.<br />
Mingling with the animals Maasai<br />
herdsmen, clad in bright red shukas lead<br />
cattle across the plains to dusty waterholes<br />
to drink. Over recent years Kenya has<br />
gained a reputation for being a mass-market<br />
destination, but while there are busy areas,<br />
these are few and easily circumvented. Kenya<br />
has huge tracts of wilderness where vehicles<br />
are scarce and safaris are on foot or even by<br />
camel. Samburu warriors herd cattle across<br />
desolate plains, the huge reserves of Laikipia<br />
protect a number of endangered species and<br />
the grasslands of the Mara are traversed by<br />
Maasai herders. Kenya has a beautiful<br />
coastline with beaches stretching for miles.<br />
Offshore, the islands of Lamu and Funzi are<br />
a delight. With old Swahili towns, dhows<br />
sailing across the water, donkeys pulling old<br />
wooden carts and quiet beaches to enjoy, these<br />
are ideal places in which to end a safari.<br />
92
<strong>Audley</strong> in Kenya<br />
4<br />
Kenya has a reputation as a mass-market<br />
destination. True, there are some busy<br />
areas, but with expert advice and insider<br />
knowledge, they are easily avoided. With<br />
our years of experience in Kenya, personal<br />
friendships with lodge owners, and love of<br />
the wilderness, we have made it our goal to<br />
seek out some of Kenya’s most remote<br />
camps and charming beach lodges. The vast<br />
majority of our trips involve light aircraft<br />
flights, making even the most distant areas<br />
accessible. In each lodge or camp a<br />
professional safari guide will introduce you<br />
to the wildlife of the area, showing you the<br />
sights, sounds and smells of the bush.<br />
7<br />
Accommodation<br />
1<br />
2<br />
6<br />
5<br />
3<br />
The range of accomodation in Kenya is<br />
varied, from Robinson Crusoe hideaways at<br />
the beach to deluxe tented camps. As Kenya<br />
is famed for its stunning natural environment,<br />
the primary focus is on bringing the outside<br />
in. Each lodge or camp makes the most of its<br />
location, be it a luxury camp overlooking a<br />
waterhole, or a rustic beach lodge just yards<br />
from the Indian Ocean. Creature comforts<br />
are not overlooked, and even the simplest of<br />
camps will have a good bed, and a bathroom<br />
with a toilet and bucket shower.<br />
8<br />
Pelican in Lake Nakuru<br />
1 Masai Mara<br />
5 Lake Naivasha<br />
Africa’s most famous reserve,<br />
with large numbers of<br />
leopard, lion and cheetah<br />
and the location for the BBC’s<br />
One of the three permanent lakes<br />
in the Rift Valley, Lake Naivasha<br />
is a beautiful and peaceful place<br />
to start or end your trip.<br />
Big Cat Diary.<br />
6 Lake Nakuru<br />
2 Mara River<br />
Thousands of wildebeest, zebra<br />
and gazelle cross the Mara River<br />
on their great migration.<br />
3 Lamu archipelago<br />
A cluster of exotic islands<br />
with a small Swahili town and<br />
plentiful donkeys, dhows and<br />
sandy beaches.<br />
4 Samburu Reserve<br />
Home to some of Kenya’s<br />
rarer species including Grevy’s<br />
zebra, Beisa oryx, reticulated<br />
giraffe and gerenuk.<br />
Often carpeted with clouds of<br />
pink flamingos, the lake is<br />
surrounded by a national park<br />
with good black and white<br />
rhino populations.<br />
7 Laikipia Plateau<br />
A wilderness area dotted with<br />
Samburu villages and traversed<br />
by elephant and other game.<br />
8 Funzi Keys<br />
A tiny island tucked in the<br />
mangroves with white sandy<br />
beaches and offshore reefs<br />
excellent for snorkelling.<br />
Topi in the Masai Mara<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Kenya, please<br />
see page 105.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Kenya<br />
specialists 01993 838 510<br />
Lunch in the Mara<br />
Kenya 93
Elephants in Governors' Camp<br />
Little Governors' Camp<br />
Masai Mara National Reserve<br />
The Masai Mara National Reserve covers an area<br />
of 1,800 square kilometres and is Africa’s most<br />
famous wildlife area. The fertile grasslands,<br />
dominated by russet oat grass, are rich feeding<br />
grounds and each year millions of wildebeest and<br />
thousands of zebra, Thomson’s and Grant’s<br />
gazelle, eland and impala swarm into the area.<br />
Elephant stroll across the savannah, trunks curling<br />
to sniff the wind. Vast prides of lion stalk grazing<br />
herds, and hyena lurk behind them hoping to<br />
snatch a tasty morsel. Male topi stand sentry on<br />
termite mounds, keeping a watchful eye for<br />
predators, and pods of hippo grunt and snort in<br />
the rivers. By night, leopard stalk the silvery<br />
plains and the shrieks of startled baboons echo<br />
through the camps.<br />
94<br />
LITTLE GOVERNORS’ CAMP,<br />
MASAI MARA NATIONAL RESERVE<br />
Little Governors’ has 17 tents set on the edge of<br />
a natural wetland. For birders and wildlife lovers,<br />
the camp is paradise. Animals flood in from the<br />
surrounding area to take advantage of the water,<br />
and tiny malachite kingfishers hover on the reeds<br />
around the waterhole. Elephants are regular<br />
visitors to camp, and it’s not unusual for meals to<br />
be delayed while they pass through. Activities<br />
from Little Governors’ focus on game drives, but<br />
it’s also the base for early morning hot air balloon<br />
flights. Taking off at dawn and ending with a<br />
champagne breakfast, these are a particularly<br />
special treat.<br />
IL MORAN, MASAI MARA<br />
NATIONAL RESERVE<br />
Il Moran is one of the most luxurious options in<br />
the Mara. Set along the banks of the Mara River<br />
in the shade of the riverine forest, ten large and<br />
comfortable tents are made of sand-coloured<br />
canvas, with carved wooden beds, rugs on the<br />
floor and en suite bathrooms with traditional<br />
roll-top baths. Game viewing in the area is<br />
spectacular, so the camp includes three game<br />
drives each day, and can also arrange walking<br />
safaris in a private reserve outside the park gates.<br />
GOVERNORS’ CAMP, MASAI MARA<br />
NATIONAL RESERVE<br />
Governors’ was one of the first safari camps in<br />
the Masai Mara, and had the pick of the locations.<br />
The camp is right in the heart of the Musiara area,<br />
home to the legendary Marsh Pride of lions. The<br />
Big Cat Diaries team are based nearby and<br />
sightings of all three big cats are regular. To take<br />
advantage of this, Governors’ offer three game<br />
drives per day, although it’s not unusual to find<br />
the game coming to you. Governors’ has 38 tents,<br />
half of which overlook the Mara River and the<br />
other half the plains. With long-standing staff and<br />
a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, this camp will<br />
suit couples and families alike.<br />
Il Moran
Leopard in the morning sun<br />
A guided bushwalk from Kicheche<br />
Cheetah on a termite mound<br />
Zebra on the grasslands<br />
Naibor Camp<br />
NAIBOR CAMP, MASAI MARA<br />
NATIONAL RESERVE<br />
Naibor Camp sits in the heart of the Mara on<br />
a meander of the Talek River. The seven cream<br />
canvas tents are light, airy and spacious. The<br />
sides of the tents can be rolled up to let the<br />
breezes in, and the soft, muted colours of the<br />
fabrics echo the bush outside. The central mess<br />
of the camp houses both dining and sitting areas,<br />
and a handful of canvas safari chairs are perched<br />
on the bank, overlooking the resident pod of<br />
hippos. This is the perfect spot for a cool drink<br />
before lunch, listening to the hippos as they hiss<br />
and splutter in the water. Activities from Naibor<br />
include game drives guided by Maasai guides<br />
and walking safaris.<br />
KICHECHE BUSH CAMP, MASAI<br />
MARA NATIONAL RESERVE<br />
Located in the Olare Orok conservancy, one of<br />
the quietest and most remote areas of the park,<br />
Kicheche Bush Camp offers safari as it should be.<br />
There are just six traditional safari tents, all spread<br />
well apart from each other. The soft khakis,<br />
greens and creams of the camp ensure that it<br />
blends effortlessly into the bush, so you’ll hardly<br />
notice it until you’re upon it. The wildlife is free to<br />
come and go through the camp and eagles soar<br />
in the skies above. Game drives are in open safari<br />
vehicles and walks are also possible. For less<br />
energetic moments, there is a mess area with<br />
comfy chairs and a hammock outside each tent.<br />
Kicheche Bush Camp<br />
Karen Blixen Camp<br />
KAREN BLIXEN CAMP, GREATER<br />
MARA CONSERVATION AREA<br />
Karen Blixen Camp is one of the newer camps<br />
in the Mara, but it is quickly establishing itself as a<br />
firm favourite. It has one of the prettiest locations<br />
of any of the Masai Mara camps, on a bend of the<br />
Mara River. A resident pod of hippos floats on<br />
the water’s surface, impala graze the nearby<br />
grasslands, and elephant are regular visitors to<br />
the opposite banks. There are 19 luxury tents set<br />
along the riverfront, with a further three raised up<br />
on stilts behind. The tents themselves are very<br />
comfortable, with polished wooden floors, rugs<br />
and en suite bathrooms. This is an ideal option<br />
for first-time safari-goers, with all of the adventure<br />
and romance of sleeping under canvas, but a few<br />
creature comforts too.<br />
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Hot air balloon safaris<br />
Early morning balloon flight<br />
Ballooning over the Mara<br />
A wonderful way to see the Mara is on a hot<br />
air balloon safari. Floating in a balloon above<br />
the plains gives you a totally different<br />
perspective on the park. You can see birds<br />
roosting in the tops of trees, giraffe hiding<br />
under the forest canopy and the backs of<br />
hippo pods and crocodiles in the snaking<br />
rivers. As you balloon at sunrise you see the<br />
mist rising from the plains and light spreading<br />
over the park. Dawn in the Mara is one of<br />
the most beautiful sights in Africa.<br />
The flight<br />
You will be woken before dawn (usually<br />
around 4am) and taken from your camp to<br />
the hot air ballooning starting point at Little<br />
Governors’ Camp. On arrival at the site you<br />
can enjoy a cup of coffee and watch the<br />
balloons inflating. When they are ready you<br />
clamber into the basket and your pilot will give<br />
you a short briefing. Then, as the sun rises, so<br />
does your balloon. The direction you take will<br />
depend on the wind and you may float over<br />
forest, plains or rivers. Your pilot will point<br />
Topi<br />
out the game below and there are ample<br />
opportunities for photography. After around<br />
an hour you will land on the plains, possibly<br />
with a bump and certainly ready for breakfast.<br />
View from the basket<br />
Champagne breakfast<br />
On landing, breakfast will be set up and<br />
served for you in the middle of the Mara.<br />
You can enjoy a glass of champagne whilst<br />
the table is laid and sausages cooked for you.<br />
Sitting on a camp stool, tucking into breakfast<br />
and watching the birds soar overhead is a<br />
magical experience. After breakfast you climb<br />
into your safari vehicle and enjoy a game<br />
drive back to camp.<br />
96
Lake Nakuru<br />
Lake Nakuru, Lake Naivasha<br />
& Lake Victoria<br />
One of the three permanent lakes in the Rift<br />
Valley, Lake Naivasha’s shores are surrounded<br />
by flower farms, old colonial properties and small<br />
villages of clay and thatch houses. The birdlife<br />
is beautiful and includes fish eagles, ospreys, lilytrotters<br />
and black crakes. With a number of<br />
animals grazing by the shores, it is an ideal place<br />
to relax for a few days.<br />
A few miles further north (and within easy reach<br />
for a day trip from Naivasha) is Lake Nakuru.<br />
The first thing you will see when approaching<br />
the lake is a roseate cloud along the shoreline.<br />
As you draw near, the pink mass turns and forms<br />
the shape of millions of flamingos. This is one of<br />
the iconic sights of East Africa and a spectacle<br />
of immense beauty. A game reserve has been<br />
created around the lake where black rhino are<br />
protected and can be seen along with many<br />
antelope, giraffe, lion and hyena.<br />
Lake Victoria is the second largest body of<br />
freshwater in the world. Although only a tiny<br />
percentage of the lake is located in Kenya, there<br />
are a number of islands scattered throughout the<br />
waters. Easily accessible from the Mara, it is also a<br />
wonderful place to relax before or after a safari.<br />
Other activities include trips to local villages and<br />
nearby islands and excellent birdwatching.<br />
Rhino in Nakuru National Park<br />
LOLDIA HOUSE, LAKE NAIVASHA<br />
A few days at Loldia is the perfect way to start or<br />
end any safari. The house retains the colonial feel<br />
of its original occupants, early Kenya settlers who<br />
travelled all the way from South Africa by ox-cart.<br />
Life here continues in many ways as they lived it,<br />
with drinks in the drawing room before dinner and<br />
afternoon tea served on the lawns overlooking the<br />
water. With a charming host in Peter Njoroge,<br />
Loldia makes an excellent base for exploring Lake<br />
Nakuru National Park, taking gentle game walks<br />
and visiting the nearby farm and school.<br />
MFANGANO ISLAND LODGE,<br />
MFANGANO ISLAND, LAKE VICTORIA<br />
Mfangano Island is a peaceful hideaway on Lake<br />
Victoria among fishing villages, beautiful birdlife<br />
and large fish in the waters. Mfangano Island<br />
Lodge blends perfectly with its environment,<br />
with massive fig trees growing up around the<br />
rooms and even through them in some cases.<br />
Dinners are always special, with lake fish – caught<br />
that day – served on a table by the shore or on<br />
the jetty, lit by lanterns.<br />
Mfangano Island Lodge<br />
Loldia House<br />
Waterbuck<br />
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Game drive in the Lewa Conservancy<br />
Laikipia Plateau<br />
Stretching over a vast area from the foothills of<br />
Mount Kenya to the shores of Lake Baringo, the<br />
Laikipia Plateau is one of Kenya’s lesser-known<br />
wildlife areas, yet it harbours more endangered<br />
species than anywhere else in East Africa. This is<br />
the place to see Grevy’s zebra, sitatunga, Jackson’s<br />
hartebeest and wild dog. Many northern species<br />
are found, including reticulated giraffe, Somali<br />
ostrich, Beisa oryx and gerenuk. There are large<br />
elephant populations, thriving lion, leopard and<br />
cheetah and numerous impala and gazelle. The<br />
land on the plateau is divided into huge ranches,<br />
most of which are devoted to wildlife<br />
conservation. The large conservancies of Lewa,<br />
Ol Pejeta and Lekurruki have all been<br />
instrumental in research and education on this<br />
vital subject, and as a guest you can learn about<br />
the ongoing projects. Far from the beaten track,<br />
they are also ideal for those looking to relax in<br />
View from a room at Sabuk<br />
98<br />
Lewa Safari Camp<br />
total wilderness. You might track elephant on<br />
foot, ride a camel across rugged plains or watch<br />
the sunset from the top of a kopje. The game is<br />
wild and unfettered and the earth is brick-red,<br />
stretching as far as the eye can see.<br />
SABUK LODGE, EWASO<br />
NG’IRO RIVER<br />
Sabuk Lodge is perched above a gorge where<br />
the Ewaso Ng’iro thunders through the rocks.<br />
There are seven stone and thatch cottages, with<br />
open air baths and views across the gorge. The<br />
service is excellent and the atmosphere friendly<br />
and relaxed. The game, including greater kudu,<br />
reticulated giraffe, klipspringer, eland, lion and<br />
leopard, make for rewarding drives and walks.<br />
As you are in the heart of Samburu country,<br />
guides are often from local villages and can<br />
teach you about their culture as well as leading<br />
you on camel safaris.<br />
WILDERNESS TRAILS &<br />
LEWA SAFARI CAMP, LEWA<br />
WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY<br />
Wilderness Trails is a charming homestead run<br />
by Will and Emma Craig, whose family started the<br />
conservancy. There are eight pretty cottages, each<br />
spacious and comfortable. The food is particularly<br />
good with organic home grown fruit and<br />
vegetables. Not far away, the neighbouring camp<br />
Lewa Safari Camp has 12 tents overlooking a<br />
floodlit waterhole favoured by elephants and both<br />
black and white rhino. Both camps offer game<br />
drives, night drives and walks with the Samburu.<br />
Giraffe in front of Lewa Safari Camp
The starbeds at Loisaba<br />
Giraffe<br />
Camel safari<br />
LOISABA WILDERNESS,<br />
LAIKIPIA PLATEAU<br />
Loisaba Wilderness has a collection of little<br />
cottages perched on the edge of an escarpment<br />
with fabulous views of the bush and Mount<br />
Kenya. Its rooms are very comfortable and there<br />
is a lovely pool tucked into a sunny courtyard, as<br />
well as a tiny spa. During the day you’ll sometimes<br />
see kudu families coming into the gardens to eat<br />
the plants and even take a quick drink from the<br />
pool. Other activities include game drives,<br />
walking safaris and horseriding.<br />
LOISABA STARBEDS,<br />
LAIKIPIA PLATEAU<br />
The Loisaba Starbeds are two camps run by the<br />
local Koija community. Each camp has a simple<br />
communal dining area and three Starbeds, which<br />
are four-poster double beds placed on halfthatched,<br />
raised platforms. Each night the beds<br />
are wheeled out so that you can sleep under the<br />
night sky. Drifting off, you listen to the sound of<br />
elephants in the nearby dam or the gentle chatter<br />
of your Samburu hosts. Waking, you are greeted<br />
by an African sunrise like no other.<br />
Kicheche Laikipia Camp<br />
KICHECHE LAIKIPIA, OL PEJETA<br />
CONSERVANCY<br />
Kicheche Laikipia is a new camp in the Ol Pejeta<br />
Conservancy. This area of Kenya is one of the<br />
few places where all of the big five can be seen<br />
in one place and the excellent guiding team are<br />
on hand to help you spot most, if not all, of them.<br />
Day and night game drives take visitors across<br />
the conservancy, and for the adventurous, there’s<br />
also the chance of an early morning walk. At the<br />
end of a rewarding day in the bush, there are six<br />
luxury safari tents to return to. A campfire is lit in<br />
front of the mess, and guests recount the day’s<br />
adventures as the moon moves across the sky.<br />
Loisaba<br />
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Walking safaris in the Karisia Hills<br />
Tracking elephant on foot<br />
For those wanting to get out of a vehicle and<br />
into their walking boots, a three to five day<br />
walking safari in the Karisia Hills in Northern<br />
Kenya might appeal. Easily tailored to fit into<br />
a trip around the country, these offer a<br />
contrast to more traditional safaris and are a<br />
good way to see big game as well as<br />
examining all the smaller animals and birds.<br />
Walking through the bush, you’ll spot the signs<br />
that a leopard has recently passed by or learn<br />
to identify a dik-dik’s territory. Herds of<br />
frightened guinea-fowl scatter amongst the<br />
thorn bushes, and giraffe canter gently away<br />
from unexpected visitors.<br />
Guides & camp staff<br />
The walking safaris we recommend are lead<br />
by Kerry Glen who grew up in Africa and is<br />
now raising her own family in the bush. She is<br />
accompanied by a team of guides and camel<br />
handlers, all of whom were raised in Northern<br />
Kenya. One of the great characters of the team<br />
is Shillingi, a Maasai elder. In the past he hunted<br />
elephants on foot with a bow and arrow, and<br />
now uses these skills as a formidable tracker.<br />
Whilst many of the camel handlers and camp<br />
crew don’t speak English or Swahili they’ll<br />
always be delighted to show you a bird that<br />
has perched on a nearby bush or play (and<br />
win) a game of football when in camp.<br />
Sleeping tent<br />
A Karisia walking safari<br />
The pack camels<br />
A day on a walking safari<br />
Each safari starts with a briefing from Kerry or<br />
head guide Gabriel. You then head off on foot<br />
following the guide and five or six pack camels.<br />
Spending a morning walking is thirsty work,<br />
and there are stops under shady acacias for<br />
drinks. You’ll reach camp around lunchtime to<br />
find tents set up by an advance camp crew.<br />
After a meal and a snooze you’ll set off on an<br />
afternoon walk. More often than not you’ll<br />
climb a kopje and settle down with delicious<br />
‘bitings’, a cool drink and all of Africa spread<br />
out below you. After the sunset you amble<br />
back to camp for a hot bucket shower,<br />
dinner under the stars and a well earned<br />
sleep in your tent.<br />
Accommodation on a walking safari<br />
Accommodation is in small dome tents, large<br />
enough for a double mattress, blankets and<br />
pillows. Torches and drinking water are<br />
supplied. The tents have netting at the front<br />
so when you wake up, you can see the sun<br />
spreading across the sky. Bucket showers and<br />
toilets are to the rear of camp. Meals are<br />
taken in a central mess area, with comfortable<br />
canvas safari chairs. There is always a campfire<br />
at night. Each day the crew packs up the camp<br />
and puts it on the backs of the camels who<br />
carry it to the next spot.<br />
100
Samburu girls at a village near to Sasaab<br />
Mongoose Gazelle in Samburu Elsa’s Kopje<br />
Samburu National Reserve<br />
The Samburu Reserve stretches stark and rugged<br />
towards the Chalbi desert. The country here is<br />
empty and wild, a place of baked brown earth<br />
and parched vegetation. The silence is almost<br />
eerie and at first you might think this an empty<br />
landscape. Stay for a while, however, and you will<br />
find yourself in one of Kenya’s most rewarding<br />
reserves. Running through Samburu, the Ewaso<br />
Ng’iro River is surrounded by a permanent ribbon<br />
of green, with tamarinds, doum palms and acacia<br />
providing respite from the sweltering sun.<br />
Elephant, buffalo and waterbuck frequent the<br />
woodland, impala herds graze under the trees<br />
and Grevy’s zebra, Beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe<br />
and gerenuk can all be found. Lion, leopard and<br />
cheetah are never far away while up above,<br />
martial eagles, bateleurs and pygmy falcons<br />
patrol the skies.<br />
SaSaab<br />
Gerenuk browsing<br />
SASAAB, SAMBURU<br />
NATIONAL RESERVE<br />
SaSaab is situated just outside the park on<br />
Samburu community land. It sits on a high rocky<br />
ridge above the Ewaso Ng’iro River and has<br />
views extending to Mount Kenya on a clear day.<br />
Accommodation is in nine luxurious Moroccan<br />
tents set under makuti thatch roofs. Each has a<br />
bedroom, lounge area, en suite bathroom and<br />
private plunge pool on the outside deck. Activities<br />
include day and night drives, walking safaris, camel<br />
treks and cultural visits to the local communities.<br />
Meru National Park<br />
Meru National Park is one of Kenya’s least known<br />
reserves. A few may know of it as the home of<br />
Joy Adamson and her lioness, Elsa, but otherwise<br />
it remains relatively unheard of. With thirteen<br />
rivers running through the park the game viewing<br />
is excellent, and yet visitors largely have the park<br />
to themselves. Game in the park includes buffalo,<br />
elephant, rhino, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra,<br />
lesser kudu and gerenuk. Prides of lion snooze<br />
beneath trees, tiny dik-diks scamper amongst the<br />
acacia thorns and bataleur eagles float on<br />
thermals in the sky. The baboons and vervet<br />
monkeys are a delight and the river is a sanctuary<br />
for hippos and crocodiles.<br />
ELSA’S KOPJE, MERU<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Elsa’s Kopje sits high on a hilltop overlooking<br />
Meru National Park. It was named for Elsa the<br />
lioness, and even now it is possible to lie in bed<br />
at night and hear lions roaring across the park.<br />
There are ten stone and thatch cottages, each<br />
slightly different, but all open-fronted to take<br />
advantage of the stunning views. The pool is<br />
the real highlight of a stay at Elsa’s and guests<br />
can sit for hours with a cold drink, watching the<br />
sun go down and the eagles glide over the<br />
landscape below.<br />
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Dhows on a Kenyan beach<br />
Kenya’s beaches<br />
Kenya has an idyllic coastline, with miles of soft<br />
white sand fringed by palm trees giving way to<br />
aquamarine seas. Small fishing villages bask in<br />
the sun, nets hang to dry on bleached sticks<br />
alongside huts tucked under cashew nut trees.<br />
There are beaches backed by tall dunes into<br />
which green turtles clamber to nest, and the<br />
many offshore marine parks protect long coral<br />
reefs. A short distance from the coast there are<br />
a number of beautiful archipelagos; Lamu with<br />
its dhows and donkeys, Funzi with mangrove<br />
channels and sand banks and Kiwayu with miles<br />
of deserted sand. With temperatures averaging<br />
28C and around eight hours of sunshine a day,<br />
it is easy to see why Kenya’s beaches have<br />
become so popular.<br />
Market in Lamu Town<br />
Picnic at Funzi Keys<br />
Swahili dining<br />
102<br />
Picnic on Manda Island
Dhows of the Lamu archipelago<br />
The Lamu Archipelago<br />
The Lamu archipelago lies a few miles off the<br />
coast of Northern Kenya. Transport is by donkey<br />
or on foot, beaches are deserted and the most<br />
common sounds are the wind in the grass or the<br />
creak of a dhow. There are two main islands in<br />
the archipelago, Lamu and Manda. Sprinkled<br />
about these in the turquoise sea are tiny coral<br />
atolls and white sandbanks, while below the<br />
surface are coral reefs rich with vibrant life. Most<br />
visitors to the archipelago base themselves on<br />
Lamu. At 16 kilometres long and seven kilometres<br />
wide, it resembles a miniature version of Zanzibar<br />
but is much quieter. On the northeast coast, the<br />
magnificent Swahili settlement of Lamu Town is a<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Venturing further<br />
afield you will find a 12-kilometre beach on the<br />
south coast and the pretty fishing village of Shela.<br />
A short boat ride away, Manda Island is quieter<br />
still, with beaches just made for picnics, barbecues<br />
and relaxing in the sun.<br />
The pool at Peponi<br />
Lamu chef<br />
PEPONI HOTEL, SHELA,<br />
LAMU ISLAND<br />
Peponi is a family-run hotel on the fringes of<br />
Shela Village. Owned and run by the Korschen<br />
family since 1967, and having once been a house,<br />
it has a warm established feel. Peponi overlooks<br />
the Lamu Channel and the 24 rooms either have<br />
sea views or look onto the gardens, bursting with<br />
flowers. There is a small pool in the shade of two<br />
baobab trees and a lovely sandy beach. Peponi is<br />
renowned for its excellent cuisine, with seafood a<br />
speciality. Lobster, giant prawns and fresh rock<br />
oysters are frequently on the menu.<br />
MANDA BAY, MANDA ISLAND<br />
Manda Bay is an exclusive hideaway tucked into<br />
the shady vegetation on Manda Island. There are<br />
ten rustic chalets, each with a large bedroom and<br />
bathroom and decorated with bright East African<br />
fabrics. Although the lodge is remote and only<br />
accessible by boat, there is plenty to keep you<br />
occupied. Sail to Lamu town to explore, dive and<br />
waterski or set off to Manda Toto Island for a<br />
day of swimming and snorkelling with a large<br />
picnic lunch.<br />
The pool at Manda Bay<br />
Manda Bay<br />
www.audleytravel.com/kenya ● 01993 838 510 ● Kenya 103
Diani Beach<br />
Funzi Island<br />
Funzi is an unspoilt island at the tip of Kenya’s<br />
south coast. Though only a 15 minute flight from<br />
Mombasa it may as well be in another world.<br />
Arriving by air you see turquoise waters, slivers of<br />
white sand and dense tropical vegetation. Dhows<br />
sail on the waves and underneath the surface, a<br />
marine park harbours numerous coral reefs. Once<br />
on the ground, a grass runway has small paths<br />
winding into the trees. A wooden walkway leads<br />
onto the island, for there are no roads here. With<br />
one exclusive lodge and no neighbours for miles<br />
around, this is as remote a beach destination as<br />
you’ll find anywhere.<br />
Funzi Keys<br />
104<br />
The pool at Funzi Keys<br />
View from a Funzi Keys chalet<br />
FUNZI KEYS, FUNZI ISLAND<br />
On the southern tip of Funzi Island, Funzi Keys<br />
faces onto a small sandy beach and is one of the<br />
most exclusive hideaways on the coast. The<br />
rooms are very private and have four-poster<br />
beds, fine linen and a Jacuzzi. A 50 metre pool is<br />
set amongst the mangroves and surrounded by<br />
sunloungers and beanbags, the ideal spot to relax<br />
during a hot afternoon. The owner Alessandro<br />
prides himself on the cuisine which includes<br />
everything from Swahili dishes to sushi. There are<br />
lots of activities on offer including snorkelling,<br />
sailing and trips to sandbanks for picnic lunches.<br />
Diani Beach, Kenya Coast<br />
Diani Beach is a popular beach on Kenya’s south<br />
coast. It has a long stretch of white sand fringed<br />
by palms and other indigenous bush. Although<br />
there are a number of hotels, private homes,<br />
shops and restaurants here, most of them are<br />
low-rise and set in large properties with gardens<br />
and trees. There is still a nice sense of nature,<br />
the atmosphere is relaxed so you can walk along<br />
the sand without meeting too many people.<br />
ASHA COTTAGE, DIANI BEACH<br />
Asha Cottage is a pretty family-run guesthouse.<br />
John and Dominique have five rooms with<br />
white-washed walls, tiled floors and traditional<br />
Swahili furniture. The rooms look out onto the<br />
pool, set in tropical gardens. Cuisine is excellent<br />
with chef Kennedy deciding on the menu only<br />
once he knows what the day’s catch is. With a<br />
relaxed atmosphere, this property is particularly<br />
well suited to families.<br />
Asha Cottage
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a basis<br />
to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Masai Mara<br />
National Reserve<br />
Laikipia Plateau<br />
Nairobi<br />
KENYA<br />
Lamu<br />
Masai Mara<br />
National Reserve<br />
Nairobi<br />
KENYA<br />
Please call one of our Kenya specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 510<br />
TANZANIA<br />
TANZANIA<br />
Getting around<br />
Zanzibar<br />
Many safari companies drive their guests around<br />
Kenya in Land Rovers or mini-buses. We feel that<br />
this limits which camps you can reach and as<br />
roads are pot-holed, journeys can be long and<br />
uncomfortable. There also tend to be stops at<br />
strategically placed curio shops. We prefer to fly<br />
our travellers around the country making use of<br />
the extensive and reasonably priced flight network.<br />
Flights land at small airstrips in the heart of parks<br />
where we will have your guide waiting, ready to<br />
drive you to camp. The flight network extends to<br />
the coast with regular flights to Lamu, Diani Beach<br />
and Funzi Island. As flying is much quicker than<br />
driving, the focus of your holiday will be on game<br />
viewing, meeting local communities and relaxing,<br />
rather than on travelling.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✓ ✓ ✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Kenya is a dry country with 75% of its area classed<br />
as arid or semi-arid. The climate can be divided<br />
into two belts. ‘Inland’ Kenya (including the Rift<br />
Valley and Central Highlands) has an idyllic climate<br />
with daytime temperatures averaging 20C and<br />
cooler nights. The short rains fall from October to<br />
December and the long rains from March to May.<br />
The coastal strip is hot and humid all year round,<br />
with daytime temperatures ranging from 26C to<br />
32C and 70% humidity. However, the heat is<br />
pleasantly tempered by the monsoon winds.<br />
Due to its temperate climate, Kenya can be<br />
enjoyed nearly all year round, the only period to<br />
avoid being the long rains from the middle of<br />
March to the end of May.<br />
Time difference: GMT+3 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 8.5 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Kenya on our website, alternatively<br />
please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />
Classic Kenya<br />
Classic Kenya is a comprehensive trip around the<br />
country exploring the wild north, game-rich Masai<br />
Mara and exotic Lamu archipelago. In the north<br />
we’ve chosen Sabuk Lodge, perched on a rocky<br />
kopje. This area receives few visitors and the focus<br />
is on walking, camel trekking and meeting Samburu<br />
communities. In the Mara we suggest Little<br />
Governors’ Camp, situated on a wetland that<br />
attracts elephant and buffalo throughout the day.<br />
The trip ends with five nights of relaxation on the<br />
beaches of Lamu Island.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Days 3-5<br />
Days 6-9<br />
Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />
Arrive in Nairobi for one night at<br />
Giraffe Manor.<br />
Fly to the Laikipia Plateau for three<br />
nights at Sabuk. Explore on game<br />
drives, visit Samburu villages and<br />
enjoy walking safaris.<br />
Fly to the Masai Mara for four nights<br />
at Little Governors’ Camp. Explore<br />
the Mara on game drives and<br />
walking safaris.<br />
Days 10-14 Fly to Lamu for five nights at Peponi<br />
Hotel. Explore Lamu on foot, enjoy<br />
dhow trips and relax beside the pool<br />
or on the beach.<br />
Day 15<br />
Day 16<br />
Fly to Nairobi and on to the UK<br />
overnight.<br />
Arrive back in the UK in the<br />
early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Instead of ending your trip on Lamu Island, fly to<br />
the Seychelles for a week. Mahé is a three hour<br />
flight from Nairobi, making it easy to combine the<br />
two countries. With luxury hotels and some of the<br />
world’s most iconic beaches, the Seychelles is a<br />
breathtaking end to a wild safari.<br />
Kenya & Zanzibar Explorer<br />
This relaxing trip combines two areas; a safari in<br />
Kenya’s Masai Mara followed by a week on<br />
Zanzibar’s palm-fringed Bwejuu Beach. Naibor<br />
Camp is located above the Talek River in the<br />
Mara. There is a noisy pod of hippos in the water<br />
and morning and afternoon game drives explore<br />
the surrounding plains, rich with game. After early<br />
morning starts on safari, Zanzibar’s Echo Beach<br />
Hotel is the perfect antidote. Enjoy a lie-in<br />
followed by a breakfast of tropical fruit before<br />
setting out on relaxed snorkel trips from a<br />
traditional dhow.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-5<br />
Day 6<br />
Days 7-12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />
Arrive in Nairobi. Fly to the Masai<br />
Mara for four nights at Naibor Camp.<br />
Explore the Mara on game drives and<br />
walking safaris.<br />
Fly to Nairobi for one night.<br />
Fly to Zanzibar for six nights at Echo<br />
Beach. Swim, snorkel and relax<br />
beside the pool or on the beach.<br />
Fly to Nairobi and on to the UK<br />
overnight.<br />
Arrive back in the UK in the<br />
early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Before flying into the Masai Mara, stay at Lake<br />
Naivasha for a few days at the start of your trip.<br />
Naivasha is a scenic three hour drive from Nairobi.<br />
Stay at a converted colonial house on the shores<br />
of the lake and enjoy game drives, walks and trips<br />
to Lake Nakuru National Park..<br />
Young lion in the Masai Mara<br />
Children's activities at SaSaab<br />
www.audleytravel.com/kenya ● 01993 838 510 ● Kenya 105
Uganda<br />
Uganda is a land of diversity,<br />
with lush forests echoing with<br />
the hoots of chimpanzees, open<br />
savannah plains, vast tea plantations<br />
and the steep-sided Rwenzori<br />
Mountains. It offers the opportunity<br />
to come face to face with a mountain<br />
gorilla in the Bwindi Impenetrable<br />
Forest and boasts some of the most<br />
diverse and abundant birdlife in the<br />
continent, including the rare shoebill<br />
stork. Although the wildlife was<br />
heavily poached during Idi Amin’s<br />
era, the national parks and reserves<br />
are now providing an important<br />
sanctuary for ever-increasing<br />
populations of game, including<br />
elephant, buffalo, lion, and even<br />
leopard. If you think Africa has no<br />
surprises left for you, Uganda may<br />
well prove you wrong.<br />
Tree climbing lion in Queen Elizabeth National Park<br />
4<br />
Batwa man in Ntandi village<br />
1 Bwindi Impenetrable<br />
Forest<br />
This montane forest is home<br />
to the mountain gorilla.<br />
3 Queen Elizabeth<br />
National Park<br />
The main area for a traditional<br />
safari with populations of lion,<br />
elephant, buffalo and more.<br />
4 Murchison Falls<br />
Dramatic waterfalls where<br />
the River Nile is forced<br />
through a narrow gap in the<br />
Great Rift Valley.<br />
3<br />
5<br />
2<br />
6<br />
2 Kibale Forest<br />
One of the best places in Africa<br />
to see chimpanzees in their<br />
natural habitat.<br />
Boats on the Nile River<br />
5 Semliki Game Reserve<br />
One of the best places in East<br />
Africa to see the shoebill stork.<br />
1<br />
106<br />
Ankole cattle by the roadside<br />
6 Jinja<br />
The source of the River Nile,<br />
and Uganda’s adventure capital<br />
with white water-rafting and<br />
mountain biking trips.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest<br />
One of the most biologically diverse forests in<br />
Africa, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is home to<br />
Uganda’s largest population of mountain gorilla<br />
and is understandably a highlight of any trip to<br />
the country. Dense rainforest mixed with bamboo<br />
and nettles covers the steep ridges of the hills<br />
and valleys in this national park which forms the<br />
eastern edge of the Albertine Rift Valley. The trek<br />
to reach the gorillas is challenging and can take as<br />
long as five hours. However, your first glimpse of<br />
a gorilla is unforgettable and easily ranks as one of<br />
the world’s greatest wildlife experiences. Whilst<br />
here, keep your eyes peeled for black and white<br />
colobus monkeys whose fluffy tails stand out<br />
against the dark green canopy.<br />
Queen Elizabeth<br />
National Park<br />
The Queen Elizabeth National Park is situated in<br />
the west of Uganda and has savannah plains<br />
interspersed with euphorbia candelabra. Hippos<br />
line the Ishasha River and lions can be found<br />
lounging in the low boughs of the fig trees in the<br />
southern plains. Further north, the Kasenyi Track<br />
is home to a wide variety of antelope including<br />
Uganda kob, bushbuck, reedbuck and topi.<br />
Elephant and buffalo are prevalent throughout,<br />
and the shores of the Kazinga Channel linking<br />
Lake Edward and Lake George are lined with fish<br />
eagles, pied kingfishers and African skimmers.<br />
More than 600 species of bird can be found here,<br />
and for those keen to explore on foot, the<br />
Maramagambo Forest is a real highlight.<br />
Shoebill stork<br />
Kibale Forest<br />
Kibale Forest National Park has dense and diverse<br />
vegetation which provides food and sanctuary for<br />
13 species of primate. It is an excellent park for<br />
exploration on foot as paths lead deep into the<br />
forest. It is one of the best places in Africa to<br />
search for chimpanzees in their natural habitat,<br />
as well as blue monkey, L’Hoest’s monkey and<br />
grey-cheeked mangabey. Nearby, the Bigodi<br />
wetlands are a birder’s paradise, boasting a<br />
colourful array of marsh-dwelling birds and clouds<br />
of butterflies. Kibale is also surrounded by dozens<br />
of pretty crater lakes, which offer superb walking<br />
opportunities for the more active traveller, as well<br />
as tea plantations which blanket the countryside<br />
in verdant greens.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> in Uganda<br />
All our tours to Uganda are private, giving<br />
you the flexibility to set the pace of your<br />
safari here. A driver-guide and 4x4 vehicle<br />
will stay with you throughout your trip,<br />
allowing you to stop to explore a busy fruit<br />
market, take a photograph or introduce<br />
yourselves to the local people. Most roads<br />
are unpaved and travelling times depend on<br />
the weather, so a relaxed attitude is<br />
important. The scenery is ever-changing,<br />
making the travel from place to place a<br />
fascinating journey in itself. The majority of<br />
the national parks are located in the<br />
southwestern sector of Uganda, and we<br />
tailor trips to form a circuit so you will<br />
never retrace your steps.<br />
Accommodation<br />
The majority of accomodation in Uganda is<br />
in small lodges and safari camps in or near<br />
the national parks. In Entebbe and Kampala,<br />
however, we use a range of small<br />
guesthouses and larger international-style<br />
hotels. Visitors should bear in mind that<br />
tourism is still relatively new to Uganda, so<br />
there is not always a great choice of<br />
accommodation in each area, and standards<br />
of service and food are usually good but not<br />
exceptional, even in the more luxurious<br />
properties. We have hand picked a selection<br />
of properties where the staff are always<br />
friendly and eager to please. They may not<br />
anticipate your needs in the same way as<br />
elsewhere in Africa but if you do need<br />
something, just ask and they will gladly help.<br />
Gorilla eating a nettle<br />
Uganda kob in Queen Elizabeth National Park<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Uganda, please<br />
see our website.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Uganda<br />
specialists 01993 838 575<br />
Uganda 107
Gorilla tracking<br />
Young gorilla eating a nettle<br />
There are only 700 mountain gorillas remaining<br />
on earth. The majority live in the Virunga<br />
Mountains that straddle Rwanda, Uganda and<br />
the Democratic Republic of Congo whilst a<br />
smaller number live in the Bwindi Impenetrable<br />
Forest of Uganda. Hunted and pushed out of<br />
their dwindling habitat, the montane forest is<br />
now heavily protected. Most of the 700<br />
individuals live a wild existence, far from human<br />
reach. However, a handful of groups have been<br />
habituated and can be tracked and observed by<br />
small numbers of visitors under the watchful<br />
eyes of park scouts.<br />
Tracking mountain gorillas is one of Africa’s<br />
greatest wildlife adventures. After scrambling up<br />
muddy paths and crawling through vegetation<br />
tunnels, the first sight of a mountain gorilla takes<br />
your breath away. They observe you from nests<br />
in the misty trees and you realise that you are<br />
now guests in their world. Crouching low in the<br />
dripping vegetation, you can watch silverbacks<br />
crunching on wild celery and nettles, youngsters<br />
chasing each other around clearings, and babies<br />
leaping from low branches before being<br />
scooped up by their mothers. Looking deep into<br />
the eyes of a gorilla sends a shiver down your<br />
spine, an experience you will never forget.<br />
Trekking in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest<br />
Permits<br />
Permits must be obtained to visit the gorillas<br />
and, as only eight are granted per gorilla group<br />
each day, they are extremely limited. We will<br />
secure permits for you as far in advance as<br />
possible and at least four months before you<br />
intend to travel. The permits currently cost<br />
around US$500 per person, which entitles<br />
you to one hour with the mountain gorillas.<br />
This money goes towards conservation of the<br />
habitat, anti-poaching efforts and education of<br />
the local communities.<br />
Trekking and clothing<br />
Gorillas live in montane forest and treks to see<br />
them are at altitude and pass through varied<br />
vegetation and terrain. You will need a<br />
reasonable level of fitness and a willingness to<br />
clamber up muddy slopes and through thick<br />
growth. When setting out you should expect<br />
to get muddy and rained on, so a waterproof<br />
jacket is essential. The exertion will keep you<br />
warm, so layers are best. We have found it a<br />
good idea to wear long trousers to protect<br />
your legs against nettles, and a T-shirt with a<br />
long-sleeved shirt over the top. A waterproofed<br />
daypack is essential for your camera, water<br />
bottle and snacks. For a small fee, porters can<br />
be hired to carry your daypack and help you<br />
up the steeper slopes.<br />
Rwanda or Uganda?<br />
There are two main locations in which to view<br />
the mountain gorillas, the Volcanoes National<br />
Park in Rwanda or the Bwindi Impenetrable<br />
Forest in Uganda. In each place, a number of<br />
groups are habituated but the experience does<br />
differ significantly. Here is a guide to each, to<br />
help you select where you would like to go in<br />
order to see these fabulous animals.<br />
108
Rwanda<br />
Rwanda is a much smaller country than Uganda,<br />
so lends itself better to a short trip in<br />
combination with a safari or beach stay<br />
elsewhere in East Africa. The Volcanoes<br />
National Park is only two hours’ drive on tarmac<br />
road from Kigali and the international airport.<br />
For one visit to the gorillas, you will need a<br />
minimum of two nights’ stay, and three nights<br />
would be ideal. Rwanda has more than twice<br />
the number of habituated mountain gorilla<br />
groups than Uganda and so permits are<br />
generally more easily available.<br />
Rwanda gorilla groups<br />
There are currently seven main groups that<br />
can be tracked in Rwanda; the Susa, Sabinyo,<br />
Amahoro, Umubano, Hirwa, Kwitonda and<br />
Group Thirteen. The groups vary in number<br />
from around 9 to 39 individuals and all currently<br />
have at least one silverback male. Of the seven<br />
groups, there are a couple that tend to be<br />
found on the saddle between Mount Sabyinyo<br />
Uganda<br />
Uganda is a larger country to explore than<br />
Rwanda, and it takes two long days of driving<br />
to reach the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest from<br />
Entebbe, broken up with an overnight stay<br />
halfway at Lake Mburo. Once at Bwindi we<br />
would recommend three nights before<br />
continuing your safari around Uganda.<br />
Uganda gorilla groups<br />
There are four habituated gorilla groups in<br />
Bwindi and none tend to be found near to the<br />
park entrance. The groups are called the<br />
Mubare, Habinyanja, Rushegura and Nkuringo<br />
and range in size from 10 to 20 individuals,<br />
each with one or two silverbacks. The terrain<br />
in Bwindi means that you sometimes start your<br />
trek at the top of the hills, descend on foot into<br />
Breakfast at Sabyinyo<br />
and Mount Gahinga which is around a two hour<br />
walk from the park entrance. Whilst it is not<br />
possible to book a permit for a specific group,<br />
your chances of having a shorter walk are higher<br />
than in Uganda. Nothing is guaranteed though<br />
and you may find yourself tracking a group such<br />
as the Susa, first studied by Diane Fossey and<br />
often found on the slopes of Mount Visoke, a<br />
five hour hike away.<br />
Buhoma Lodge<br />
the valley to see the gorillas, and then climb up<br />
the slopes at the end of the day, which can be<br />
more arduous. In short, Uganda tends to be a<br />
harder option than Rwanda.<br />
SABYINYO SILVERBACK LODGE,<br />
VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK<br />
This is our favourite lodge in Rwanda, and has<br />
eight cottages perched on the lower slopes of<br />
the mighty Sabyinyo Volcano. As this is a<br />
community lodge, your stay contributes directly<br />
to the local village’s health and education<br />
projects. With spectacular views over the chain<br />
of volcanoes, spacious cottages where fires are<br />
lit before your return from a day’s trekking, and<br />
hot baths to soak your weary limbs, this is a<br />
wonderful base from which to explore.<br />
Young gorilla<br />
BUHOMA LODGE, BWINDI<br />
IMPENETRABLE FOREST<br />
Surrounded by the sights and sounds of the<br />
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Buhoma Lodge is<br />
a small, friendly lodge only five minutes’ walk<br />
from the park headquarters where you start<br />
your gorilla trekking. Built on the hillside, each<br />
of the eight cottages has a private balcony<br />
overlooking the forest canopy. This is a rustic<br />
and charming lodge with friendly staff, tasty<br />
home-cooked meals and stunning views.<br />
Gorillas in nests in the Virunga Mountains<br />
Gorilla in the Virunga Mountains<br />
Gorilla tracking 109
Rwanda<br />
Located in the heart of East Africa,<br />
Rwanda is one of the continent’s<br />
smallest and most beautiful countries.<br />
The main attraction is provided by<br />
the mountain gorillas in the Virunga<br />
Mountains but the country has so<br />
much more to offer. Rwanda’s scenery<br />
comprises rolling hills covered in a<br />
patchwork quilt of fields, the expanse<br />
of Lake Kivu and the lush montane<br />
vegetation of Nyungwe Forest. The<br />
horrors of the genocide in 1994<br />
affected every family and memorials<br />
are seen throughout the country, but<br />
the nation has repaired itself and is<br />
an astonishingly welcoming and<br />
friendly place to visit. The sense of<br />
community is overwhelming; on the<br />
monthly volunteering day, even the<br />
President helps to sweep the streets<br />
and clear litter, making Kigali one<br />
of Africa’s cleanest capital cities!<br />
Local boy at the Kings Palace<br />
1<br />
1 Volcanoes National Park<br />
Home to mountain gorillas and<br />
golden monkeys.<br />
2 Lake Kivu<br />
A beautiful lake whose sandy<br />
shores are perfect for relaxation<br />
after gorilla tracking.<br />
The outskirts of Kigali<br />
2<br />
4<br />
3<br />
Mountain gorilla<br />
3 Gisozi Genocide<br />
Memorial<br />
The museum in Kigali dedicated<br />
to the 1994 genocide.<br />
4 Nyungwe Forest<br />
Home to chimpanzees, black<br />
and white colobus monkeys and<br />
a profusion of birdlife.<br />
Village scenery between Kigali and Ruhengeri<br />
110
Volcanoes National Park<br />
The Volcanoes National Park protects the<br />
Rwandan side of the Virunga Mountains which<br />
stretch into Uganda and the Democratic Republic<br />
of Congo. The craggy peaks offer a dramatic<br />
backdrop to the surrounding farmland and are<br />
one of the most striking sights in East Africa.<br />
The rainforest which covers the slopes is home<br />
to around 300 mountain gorillas, as well as<br />
buffalo, forest elephant and several troops of<br />
golden monkey. Around half of the gorillas living<br />
in this ecosystem reside on the Rwandan side of<br />
the mountains and gorilla tracking here is one<br />
of the wildlife highlights of Africa.<br />
View of the Volcanoes National Park<br />
Lake Kivu<br />
Only two hours by road from the Volcanoes<br />
National Park is Rwanda’s largest body of water,<br />
Lake Kivu. Three towns lie along the lakeshore –<br />
Gisenyi to the North, Kibuye in the middle and<br />
Cyangugu to the South. The lake’s sandy shore<br />
stretches for miles, and is bordered by steepsided<br />
hills, making for some stunning scenery.<br />
Most people visit the lake for a couple of days<br />
of relaxation after gorilla tracking. It is possible to<br />
take boat trips out onto the lake and your guide<br />
can accompany you to explore one of the<br />
traditional, bustling Rwandan towns.<br />
Golden monkey in the Volcanoes National Park<br />
Nyungwe Forest<br />
Situated in the far south of Rwanda, Nyungwe<br />
Forest National Park protects one of Africa’s<br />
oldest forests. The dense vegetation is a refuge<br />
for thirteen species of primates including<br />
chimpanzees and L’Hoests monkeys. The birdlife<br />
is stunning, and with a little patience, many<br />
unusual forest species can be found here.<br />
Highlights include a sighting of the colourful blue<br />
turaco, and the eerie sound of the forest hornbill<br />
calling in the distance.<br />
Intore dancing at Iby’Iwachu Cultural Village<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> in Rwanda<br />
We operate completely private tours of<br />
Rwanda, tailoring them to your interests and<br />
timeframe. You are met at the airport by a<br />
driver-guide who will be with you for the<br />
duration of your stay and will take you from<br />
place to place in a 4x4, offering fascinating<br />
insights into Rwandan cultures and traditions.<br />
Because of the compact size of the country,<br />
it is easy to visit the main areas, including<br />
Kigali, the Volcanoes National Park and Lake<br />
Kivu, in a week-long trip. If time is limited it is<br />
possible to spend just a few nights in Rwanda<br />
to see the gorillas before heading on to<br />
Kenya for a safari or time on the beach.<br />
Our specialists have all tracked the gorillas,<br />
and are passionate about sharing this<br />
incredible experience with you.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Rwanda is still very much off the beaten<br />
track and it is important to recognise this<br />
when planning a trip here. The range of<br />
hotels is limited, and in some instances the<br />
only option is a simple guesthouse. At the<br />
Volcanoes National Park however, there are<br />
several options to choose from, ranging from<br />
basic camps to beautiful luxury lodges with<br />
sweeping views of the Virunga Volcanoes.<br />
Standards of service and food will vary, and<br />
visitors should bear in mind that although<br />
eager to please, hoteliers and staff in<br />
Rwanda may not have the same amount<br />
of experience as their counterparts<br />
elsewhere in Africa.<br />
Driving around Rwanda<br />
A tea plantation<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Rwanda, please<br />
see our website.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Rwanda<br />
specialists 01993 838 580<br />
Rwanda 111
Madagascar<br />
165<br />
million years ago, Madagascar<br />
broke free from Africa and<br />
drifted 400 kilometres out into the<br />
Mozambique Channel. Geological forces<br />
thrust up dramatic mountain ranges along<br />
the spine of an island a thousand miles long.<br />
Isolated from the rest of the world, wildlife<br />
evolved along its own distinct path; of<br />
Madagascar’s 200,000 species, more than<br />
80 percent are endemic. The most famous<br />
are the lemurs. This is the place to hear the<br />
eerie wail of the indri echo across misty<br />
rainforests, see sifakas leap across ochre earth<br />
and spot the outline of a bamboo lemur in<br />
the fork of a tree at night. Walks through<br />
the forests will reveal more than lemurs,<br />
however. Pushing past wild ginger ferns<br />
and over buttress roots, you will see a<br />
kaleidoscope of chameleons, frogs and<br />
butterflies. Birds screech in the trees and<br />
uncharted insects march through the leaf<br />
litter. Finally, Madagascar is surrounded<br />
by a halo of small islands. The beaches are<br />
long and sandy; small fishing villages are<br />
shaded by mango and breadfruit trees. Kick<br />
off your walking boots, lie back and watch<br />
the frigate birds soar overhead.<br />
112
<strong>Audley</strong> in Madagascar<br />
1<br />
7<br />
2<br />
3<br />
5<br />
6<br />
4<br />
There is no doubt that Madagascar’s<br />
infrastructure is a few years behind that of its<br />
African neighbours. Flights can be subject to<br />
delays, roads are rutted and accommodation<br />
in some areas can be extremely basic. Our<br />
Madagascar team is extremely experienced<br />
and, because it is a complex country to<br />
operate in, have spent years researching in<br />
the country, seeing all the possible<br />
accommodation options and finding ways<br />
around transport problems. We have<br />
carefully picked a team of guides with<br />
extensive knowledge and more than a bit of<br />
initiative. Provided a trip is planned carefully,<br />
Madagascar is a wonderful place in which to<br />
travel. You can revel in the colour and<br />
vibrancy of the villages and towns, wonder<br />
at the beauty of the rainforests, and laze on<br />
some of the pristine beaches. The country is<br />
not for everyone, but if you have a relaxed<br />
travelling attitude, it is hard not to fall in love<br />
with this beautiful island.<br />
Accommodation<br />
1 Anjajavy Nature Reserve<br />
A private reserve with deciduous<br />
forest and sandy beaches. Easily<br />
viewed lemurs and sifakas.<br />
9<br />
8<br />
4 Masoala National Park<br />
An extremely remote virgin<br />
rainforest dropping to deserted<br />
beaches. Abundant lemurs,<br />
chameleons and frogs.<br />
Accommodation in Madagascar is of a<br />
lower standard than on mainland Africa.<br />
There are no luxurious lodges, large<br />
operators or hotel chains. We love this, as<br />
it means that there is a wonderful array of<br />
places to stay, each different from the next.<br />
In the rainforest there are small camps where<br />
chickens cluck around the garden and their<br />
eggs are collected for breakfast. In villages<br />
and towns you can stay in old colonial<br />
homesteads, and on the coast you can<br />
choose from tiny guesthouses or boutique<br />
hotels. While the standards of comfort may<br />
vary, food is generally good. Madagascar has<br />
a high standard of cuisine that blends<br />
Malagasy, French and Asian influences.<br />
Zebu steaks are a speciality, as are prawns,<br />
crab and fresh fish.<br />
5<br />
Nosy Mangabe<br />
Female panther chameleon<br />
2 Nosy Komba<br />
An idyllic island off the<br />
northern tip of Madagascar.<br />
Ideal for relaxation, snorkelling<br />
and swimming.<br />
3 Amber Mountain<br />
National Park<br />
Dense rainforest with abundant<br />
lemurs, chameleons and frogs.<br />
A small island with dense<br />
rainforest, home to the aye-aye.<br />
6 Ile Sainte Marie<br />
A colourful and vibrant island<br />
with white sandy beaches.<br />
Perfect for relaxing and whale<br />
watching in season.<br />
Mantella frog<br />
Local girl<br />
7 Andasibe National Park<br />
Home to the indri as well as<br />
other easily viewed lemurs<br />
and chameleons.<br />
8 Ifotaka Forest<br />
The sacred forest of the<br />
Antandroy people with a number<br />
of tombs hidden in the trees.<br />
9 Isalo National Park<br />
A beautiful park encompassing<br />
vast savannahs and sandstone<br />
cliffs. Excellent for hiking.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Madagascar,<br />
please see page 127.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Madagascar<br />
specialists 01993 838 585<br />
Madagascar 113
Dusk in Antananarivo<br />
Mouse lemur in Andasibe<br />
Brown lemur in Andasibe National Park<br />
Andasibe National Park<br />
Andasibe, also known as Perinet, covers an area<br />
of montane rainforest at altitudes between 930<br />
metres and 1,040 metres. It is the best park in<br />
which to see the indri, the largest lemur, with two<br />
of the 62 resident groups having been habituated.<br />
There are eight other species of lemur in<br />
Andasibe and the most commonly seen include<br />
the grey bamboo lemur, brown lemur and woolly<br />
lemur. Nocturnal walks are excellent for sightings<br />
of mouse lemurs and the greater dwarf lemur.<br />
There are some wonderful chameleons in the<br />
reserve including the two-foot long Parson’s<br />
chameleon and the tiny nose-horned chameleon.<br />
Frogs are plentiful and birding highlights include<br />
blue and red-fronted coucals and the Madagascar<br />
long-eared owl. All exploring is done on foot<br />
along trails that weave through the forest:<br />
expeditions can vary in length from one hour to<br />
five. Walks are particularly rewarding in the early<br />
morning when indri calls echo through the air.<br />
A cottage at Vakona Forest Lodge<br />
114<br />
VAKONA FOREST LODGE,<br />
ANDASIBE<br />
Vakona Forest Lodge is situated on a hillside<br />
that drops down to a lake. The combination of<br />
luxuriant vegetation and fresh mountain air is<br />
wonderful, the peace disturbed only by the<br />
sound of forest frogs. Dotted around the hillside,<br />
14 basic bungalows each have their own decks.<br />
A number of marked trails leave from the lodge<br />
and thread into the heart of the primary forest.<br />
Antananarivo (Tana)<br />
Antananarivo is built on a series of hills. The King<br />
used to have his palace on the tallest hill and<br />
from there he would look down over the smaller<br />
hills where his wives lived. The city grew from<br />
these origins and modern day Tana now sprawls<br />
across the hills in a disorganised but relatively<br />
attractive fashion. Tana is a working African city<br />
with totally chaotic traffic. Taxi-brousses zip along<br />
roads that are also home to zebu-carts, people<br />
pushing homemade wheelbarrows, and street<br />
traders. There are paddy fields in the suburbs<br />
where zebu graze and cattle egrets mix with<br />
ducks and chickens. In the centre of town,<br />
colonial houses, cobbled streets and modern<br />
office blocks all sit alongside each other. Nearly<br />
all trips to Madagascar require at least one night<br />
in Tana. We recommend staying in the centre of<br />
town and enjoying a meal in one of the city’s<br />
excellent restaurants.<br />
Pavillon de l’Emyrne<br />
PAVILLON DE L’EMYRNE,<br />
ANTANANARIVO<br />
Pavillon de l’Emyrne is a charming colonial house<br />
in the Isoraka area of Tana. The house is set in<br />
pretty gardens and has lots of character, with<br />
wood-panelled corridors, high beamed ceilings,<br />
open fireplaces and antique furniture. Located<br />
near to some of Tana’s nicest restaurants, it is<br />
ideal for an overnight stop.<br />
Indri – the largest lemur species
Madagascar’s wildlife<br />
Ring-tailed lemurs<br />
One of the joys of Madagascar is that none of<br />
the wildlife is dangerous to humans, and you<br />
can explore the parks on foot. Rambling along<br />
the soft paths of a rainforest you will pass lush<br />
vegetation which, on close inspection, is alive<br />
with creatures. Chameleons the size of your<br />
thumbnail, leaf geckos camouflaged against the<br />
bark and tiny frogs the size of paper clips can<br />
all be found. Of course, the lemurs are the<br />
highlight, with numerous species readily seen.<br />
Madagascar’s wildlife is weird and wonderful –<br />
a fascinating mix of endemic creatures that<br />
have taken their own evolutionary paths<br />
over the millenia.<br />
Lemurs<br />
Madagascar is famous for its lemur species, of<br />
which there are 53 currently known varieties.<br />
Lemurs are prosimians, or pre-monkeys, and<br />
share characteristics with early primates. Whilst<br />
other prosimians are found in Africa, namely<br />
bushbabies, lemurs are endemic to Madagascar.<br />
Lemurs are particularly appealing animals, with<br />
soft fur, bright inquisitive eyes and a naturally<br />
curious nature. They are easily habituated to<br />
humans and can often be viewed at close<br />
quarters. Probably the best known are the<br />
ring-tailed lemurs which are found in southern<br />
Madagascar. Other lemurs of particular interest<br />
are the indri and the sifaka. The indri, the<br />
largest of the species, is found in Andasibe<br />
Chameleon<br />
National Park and is known for its eerie call<br />
that echoes across the forest. Sifakas are<br />
famous for their unique upright leaping across<br />
the ground, making them resemble a triple<br />
jump athlete. Effortlessly graceful in the trees,<br />
they are almost comical on the ground but<br />
provide one of Madagascar’s great sights. Aside<br />
from these, two of the most delightful groups<br />
are the dwarf and mouse lemurs. Dwarf lemurs<br />
are relatively slow moving whilst mouse lemurs<br />
are lively. The smallest of the mouse lemurs is<br />
the pygmy mouse lemur, a creature so tiny it<br />
could fit inside an egg cup. As some lemurs are<br />
diurnal and others nocturnal, walks occur in<br />
both day and night time, allowing you to see<br />
the maximum number of different animals.<br />
Reptiles & frogs<br />
Madagascar currently has 340 known reptile<br />
and frog species, 90 percent of which are<br />
endemic. Chameleons are the most striking of<br />
these and are seen incredibly easily. They range<br />
dramatically in size, with Parson’s chameleon<br />
measuring two feet long and the pygmy stumptailed<br />
chameleon reaching just 33 millimetres.<br />
With bright colours, funny noses, curly tails and<br />
rotating eyes these wonderful creatures can<br />
keep you occupied for hours.<br />
Whilst Madagascar has no lizards, it does<br />
have some interesting geckos. Of particular<br />
note are the day geckos with coats of emerald<br />
green. The most extraordinary are the leaf<br />
tailed geckos, camouflaged to look exactly like<br />
bark. Your eyes can be a foot away from one<br />
and still you will not see it. Luckily, our guides<br />
are extremely good at picking them out!<br />
The final reptile worth noting is the snake.<br />
There is a total absence of venomous snakes<br />
in Madagascar and the snake you are most<br />
likely to see is the slow moving boa.<br />
Frog on a leaf<br />
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River running through Ranomafana National Park<br />
Ranomafana National Park<br />
Ranomafana National Park is part of the lush<br />
chain of rainforest that runs down Madagascar’s<br />
east coast. The steep hills are covered in thick<br />
vegetation, occasionally broken by waterfalls and<br />
mountain streams. The park’s star attraction is<br />
the golden bamboo lemur, often found grazing<br />
amongst the bamboo thickets. Eleven other<br />
species of lemur found here include diademed<br />
sifakas that leap through the canopy during the<br />
day, and tiny mouse lemurs that race up and<br />
down tree trunks by night. Heading deep into the<br />
park, you may hear the calls of cuckoo rollers,<br />
catch a glimpse of a leaf-tailed gecko or stumble<br />
upon the graves of the Tanala, the ‘people of the<br />
forest’. It is well worth spending a few days hiking<br />
around this enchanting park.<br />
SETAM LODGE, RANOMAFANA<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Setam Lodge comprises a handful of clean and<br />
simple bungalows built into the hillside just<br />
outside Ranomafana National Park. The lodge has<br />
spectacular views over the park, so guests awake<br />
each day to the sight of the early morning mist<br />
rising from the rainforest. Setam is the closest<br />
lodge to the park gate, making it an excellent<br />
base from which to explore.<br />
The realities of travel in Madagascar<br />
A trip around Madagascar is very different<br />
from one on mainland Africa. It is important<br />
not to expect a polished safari but to<br />
approach your trip with a relaxed attitude<br />
and sense of humour. Accommodation is in<br />
all sorts of buildings from converted colonial<br />
houses to A-frame reed and thatch chalets.<br />
All are unique in character and some have<br />
more than a few quirks. Internal flights can be<br />
subject to delays and more than one<br />
member of our team has flown with a crate<br />
of noisy chickens in the back of the aircraft.<br />
The airports are small and often quite chaotic<br />
but surprisingly tasty hot samosas and cold<br />
drinks can be found in the tiny restaurants.<br />
There is rarely a dull moment in a<br />
Madagascar airport as the arrival and<br />
departure of planes often attracts local<br />
children. The Malagasy people are<br />
welcoming, but there may well be a language<br />
barrier as English is not always widely spoken.<br />
It is useful to have a basic grasp of French<br />
and we advise that you take a phrasebook.<br />
Despite the challenges of travel in<br />
Madagascar, we can’t recommend it highly<br />
enough! The guides are knowledgeable, the<br />
wildlife is exciting, and it is refreshing to be<br />
out of a vehicle and exploring on foot.<br />
Now is an excellent time to visit the country<br />
before it has been ‘discovered’ by the<br />
masses. Our advice would be to revel in the<br />
chaos, the colour and the wildlife – and just<br />
don’t bother to take your watch.<br />
116<br />
Setam Lodge<br />
Giraffe weevil
Isalo at sunset<br />
Brown lemur in Isalo<br />
Red bellied lemur<br />
Isalo National Park<br />
Isalo’s golden sandstone cliffs can be seen rising<br />
from the plains from many miles away. The<br />
national park is home to some of Madagascar’s<br />
most stunning scenery, and is a sacred place for<br />
the Bara tribe, whose burial sites are marked by<br />
countless mounds of tiny stones.<br />
Hiking up to the massif, visitors enter a barren<br />
wonderland of twisted rock formations and<br />
extraordinary plants, shimmering in the heat of<br />
the plateau. Squat elephant’s foot plants cling to<br />
the rocks, a few dry grasses blow in the wind, and<br />
succulent aloes thrive. Wildlife concentrates in the<br />
numerous shady gorges and cool running streams<br />
that carve through the massif. Deciduous<br />
woodland grows in each canyon’s higher levels,<br />
and it is here that Isalo’s lemurs are most often<br />
found. Brown lemurs feed amongst the branches,<br />
Verreaux’s sifakas leap from rock to rock, and<br />
troops of cheeky ringtails wander along the<br />
pathways. Deeper in the gorges, only a few shafts<br />
of sunlight penetrate to the streams, and dripping<br />
mosses and ferns line the walls. Occasionally the<br />
streams become blocked, forming tiny tropical<br />
pools amongst the rocks. The clear air, tumbling<br />
waterfalls, and cool water make a wonderful<br />
respite from a hot day’s hiking over the plateau.<br />
Satrana Lodge<br />
RELAIS DE LA REINE, ISALO<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Cleverly hidden amongst the rocks of Isalo,<br />
Relais de la Reine has the feel of a Mediterranean<br />
farmhouse. The thick stone walls provide a<br />
shelter from hot summer days and crackling open<br />
fires warm chilly winter nights. As is the case<br />
wherever you are in Isalo, views are magnificent.<br />
Sitting on the terrace for sundowners is a delight,<br />
as the setting sun paints darker shades on the<br />
golden-pink cliffs above.<br />
Bara tribe sacred burial site<br />
SATRANA LODGE, ISALO<br />
NATIONAL PARK<br />
Satrana Lodge is a new addition to the Isalo<br />
area and has 40 safari tents tucked beneath a<br />
sandstone massif. Each of the tents is set on a<br />
raised platform and is stylishly furnished inside.<br />
The en suite bathrooms have both indoor and<br />
outdoor showers. The dining area in the lodge<br />
makes the most of the impressive scenery via its<br />
huge bay windows and offers excellent Malagasy<br />
and French cuisine. There is a small library and<br />
a good sized swimming pool.<br />
Relais de la Reine<br />
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St Luce Bay, Manafiafy<br />
Wrestling match in Antandroy Village<br />
The Ifotaka<br />
Community Forest<br />
The Ifotaka Community Forest is as remote as it<br />
is wild. It covers a huge expanse of gallery and<br />
spiny forest and has been protected by the<br />
Antandroy, one of Madagascar’s fiercest and<br />
most traditional tribes. Their ancestors are buried<br />
in the sacred forests: guarding their graves, the<br />
Antandroy have also preserved pristine wildlife<br />
areas. Species including ring-tailed, mouse,<br />
sportive and sifaka lemurs are all readily seen,<br />
as well as many bird species. Many tombs are<br />
hidden in the forest undergrowth, and your guide<br />
will explain the traditions and rituals of ancestor<br />
worship. It is possible to visit the ombiasy<br />
(traditional healer), learn how to use the piletse,<br />
a zebu-hide slingshot, and take a zebu-cart to<br />
the colourful market at Fenaivo.<br />
MANDRARE RIVER CAMP,<br />
IFOTAKA COMMUNITY FOREST<br />
This pretty camp has six tents set under<br />
tamarind trees on the banks of the Mandrare<br />
River. Each comfortable tent has a large bedroom<br />
and en suite bathroom with hot bucket shower.<br />
The sun rises directly in front of the tents, giving<br />
breathtaking early morning views. At night, there<br />
being absolutely no light pollution, the stars are<br />
the best you’ll see anywhere in Africa. With some<br />
of Madagascar’s best guides, this camp is well<br />
suited to wildlife enthusiasts.<br />
Mandrare River Camp<br />
Manafiafy<br />
Manafiafy is a sleepy fishing village on the bay of<br />
St Luce in southern Madagascar. This was where<br />
the first Portuguese landed in Madagascar in 1613,<br />
as the bay’s sheltered waters provided safe<br />
anchorage. The village has changed little since<br />
those times and the smell of cloves and vanilla<br />
View from chalet, Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest Lodge<br />
sweeten the air. Nowadays, local fishermen paddle<br />
their dugout canoes through the calm waters to<br />
the open ocean beyond. The sandy beaches are<br />
backed by forests where lemurs, chameleons and<br />
geckos can be seen. Offshore there are coral reefs<br />
rich in marine life and humpback whales pass by<br />
from mid June until early December.<br />
MANAFIAFY BEACH AND<br />
RAINFOREST LODGE, MANAFIAFY<br />
This lodge has an idyllic setting, surrounded by<br />
azure blue seas, lush verdant forests, and distant<br />
mountains. There are six comfortable bungalows<br />
tucked into the forest overlooking the beach.<br />
Each has a large bedroom which opens onto a<br />
shady terrace with sun beds, a hammock and table<br />
and chairs for outdoor dining. The lodge prides<br />
itself on its cuisine, with seafood a speciality. Fresh<br />
mussels, oysters, crab, lobster and fish are bought<br />
from the fishermen daily and exquisitely prepared<br />
for candlelit dinners on the beach.<br />
118
Verreaux’s sifaka<br />
The beach at Ambola<br />
Baobab in Tsimanampetsotsa<br />
Anakao<br />
Anakao is a Vezo fishing village around 50<br />
kilometres south of Tulear. The terrible roads<br />
make boat the best way to reach Anakao, and<br />
fleets of pirogues line the shore. The inaccessibility<br />
of the village means that modern development<br />
has largely passed Anakao by. Most of the<br />
villagers are fishermen and shortly after dawn<br />
each morning you’ll see tens of tiny sails flutter<br />
across the water.<br />
Anakao has some pretty beaches. Offshore, the<br />
tiny island of Nosy Ve has a white sandy shoreline,<br />
and is home to hundreds of tropicbirds. The reefs<br />
offer good diving and snorkelling with a myriad of<br />
fish including surgeonfish, angelfish, butterflyfish,<br />
groupers and rays. On the outskirts of Anakao<br />
village you will find some interesting tombs and<br />
once you are clear of the populated areas you<br />
start to see wildlife including ring-tailed lemurs,<br />
tortoises, chameleons, geckos and other lizards.<br />
The village at Anakao<br />
ANAKAO OCEAN LODGE,<br />
ANAKAO<br />
Anakao Ocean Lodge is a ten minute boat ride<br />
from the village. It has 25 thatched stone<br />
rondavels built in two rows along the back of a<br />
long sandy beach. The main lodge is a large,<br />
round, stone building housing the bar and<br />
restaurant under a soaring thatched roof. From<br />
the restaurant, it’s possible to see straight into<br />
the kitchen, where the chef cooks French and<br />
Malagasy food, often using fish from the sea<br />
nearby. Outside there is a small terrace, where<br />
guests eat lazy lunches and listen to the waves.<br />
Ambola & Tsimanampetsotsa<br />
National Park<br />
Ambola is a small and typically Malagasy coastal<br />
village at the end of a magnificent stretch of<br />
white sand in a very remote and beautiful part of<br />
Madagascar. Here you can enjoy the beach and<br />
also some of the fascinating flora endemic to the<br />
south – it is a perfect little place for a short stop.<br />
Ambola is also the place from which to explore<br />
the Tsimanampetsotsa National Park. Amongst<br />
the spiny forest you will get the chance to see<br />
some extraordinary baobabs, a salt water lake<br />
full of flamingos and an endemic species of fish<br />
that is entirely blind.<br />
HOTEL AMBOLA, AMBOLA<br />
Located on one of the most majestic beaches in<br />
the region, this small hotel has just five rooms.<br />
Each is simple but is imaginatively decorated with<br />
traditional woodcarvings. En suite bathrooms<br />
have showers and hot water is available on<br />
request. The hotel has a well located restaurant<br />
overlooking the lagoon. Here you can very<br />
happily while away some time reading a book<br />
and observing the local fishermen sailing past in<br />
their pirogues. The hotel is particularly lovely<br />
from June to September when humpback whales<br />
can be seen offshore.<br />
A suite at Anakao Ocean Lodge<br />
Female panther chameleon<br />
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Red-ruffed lemur<br />
Masoala National Park<br />
Masoala National Park is Madagascar’s largest<br />
park and one of its least visited. Primary rainforest<br />
covers a range of mountains and drops down to<br />
the deserted beaches of Antongil Bay where<br />
humpback whales come to breed and calve. The<br />
Masoala rainforest is beautiful, with tall palisander<br />
trees, vines, wild ginger plants, ferns and orchids.<br />
Chameleons are easily found: the most<br />
commonly-seen species include the panther<br />
chameleon, hooded chameleon and several<br />
species of stump-tailed chameleon. Masoala is<br />
the last refuge of the red-ruffed lemur, who you<br />
will often see sunning on the tops of trees in the<br />
morning. At night, eastern woolly lemurs can<br />
frequently be seen sitting in the tree forks, and<br />
white-fronted brown lemur, brown mouse lemur<br />
and the aye-aye are also resident. On the ground<br />
a surprising number of lowland streaked tenrecs<br />
(small hedgehog-like creatures) rustle through the<br />
vegetation in their endless search for insects.<br />
Masoala Forest Camp<br />
120<br />
Tree boa<br />
MASOALA FOREST CAMP,<br />
MASOALA NATIONAL PARK<br />
Masoala Forest Camp is built on a golden-sand<br />
beach where the rainforest meets the sea. There<br />
are five tents on raised platforms, each with a<br />
hammock where you can relax on hot afternoons,<br />
watching the birds and geckos. The chef, Estrina,<br />
is particularly good, conjuring up wonderful meals<br />
using fresh, local ingredients. Activity options<br />
include wildlife walks in the rainforest, snorkelling<br />
and kayaking along the coast.<br />
Nosy Mangabe<br />
Nosy Mangabe is a small island located in<br />
Antongil Bay two kilometres offshore from<br />
Maroantsetra. The island has a rich history of<br />
piracy, and as you arrive by boat, it looks exactly<br />
like a pirates’ hang-out. Dense vegetation drops<br />
to large boulders and hidden coves – one of<br />
which has a rusty shipwreck emerging from the<br />
shallows. The island is a rainforest reserve and<br />
sanctuary for the endangered aye-aye which was<br />
introduced in 1966. This is the best place in<br />
Madagascar to see these fascinating creatures and<br />
an overnight stay is recommended to give you<br />
the chance to search by torchlight. Other lemurs<br />
on the island include black and white ruffed<br />
lemur, white-fronted brown lemur and the brown<br />
mouse lemur. As there is no accommodation on<br />
the island, the only way to stay overnight is to<br />
camp, and as paths through the forest can be<br />
steep, it’s a place for keen walkers.<br />
CAMPING SAUVAGE,<br />
NOSY MANGABE<br />
The camping on Nosy Mangabe is referred to<br />
as camping sauvage and this is an accurate<br />
description. You will stay in simple dome tents on<br />
a rudimentary campsite that has only the most<br />
basic washing facilities. Whilst the camping is wild,<br />
the experience is wonderful. At night, the forest<br />
rings with the calls of frogs and at dawn, an<br />
atmospheric mist hangs over the trees.<br />
Camping on Nosy Mangabe
Tomato frog<br />
Crowned lemur<br />
The Cascade Sacree Waterfall, Amber Mountain<br />
Amber Mountain<br />
National Park<br />
Amber Mountain National Park is situated in the<br />
far north of Madagascar, 40 kilometres south of<br />
Diego Suarez. Whilst Diego can be hot and dry,<br />
Amber Mountain is always cool and fresh with<br />
mists hanging over the huge strangler figs,<br />
quinine trees and enormous birds-nest ferns.<br />
Even non-birders are amazed by the spectacular<br />
species found here, including the Madagascar<br />
crested ibis and the paradise flycatcher, with its<br />
long trailing tail feathers.<br />
The park is rewarding for walkers, with several<br />
beautiful trails threading through the forest.<br />
Two trails lead to waterfalls, the Cascade<br />
d’Antomboka and the Cascade Sacrée. On foot<br />
you have the chance to discover all the smaller<br />
Nature Lodge<br />
wildlife such as the leaf-mimic chameleons, tree<br />
boas, leaf-tailed geckos, butterflies and pill<br />
millipedes which curl up into perfect balls. There<br />
are seven lemur species in the park, including<br />
the crowned lemur and Sanford’s brown lemur,<br />
and hikers usually see at least one if not two of<br />
the diurnal species. There is no accommodation<br />
in the Amber Mountain National Park itself, but<br />
the nearby village of Joffreville offers a flavour of<br />
rural Malagasy life and is a good base from<br />
which to explore.<br />
THE LITCHI TREE, JOFFREVILLE<br />
In 2007 a young Frenchman called Hervé Dumel<br />
began renovating the old Admiral’s House which<br />
had stood empty for years on a hill overlooking<br />
Joffreville. Hervé lovingly restored it to its former<br />
glory and turned it into an upmarket boutique<br />
hotel. Grand stairs lead up to the house and into<br />
an elegant dining area, library and lounge. At the<br />
back of the house, the stable blocks have been<br />
converted into bedrooms. With lots of character<br />
and good food this is an enjoyable place to stay.<br />
NATURE LODGE, JOFFREVILLE<br />
Nature Lodge is located on a hill two kilometres<br />
south of Joffreville, centred around a restaurant<br />
that serves local food, and a small sociable bar.<br />
Accommodation is in 12 simple thatched chalets<br />
made from local wood, each with a deck that is<br />
perfect for taking in the superb views of Diego<br />
Suarez and the Indian Ocean beyond.<br />
Female panther chameleon<br />
Tsingy at Ankarana<br />
Ankarana Special Reserve<br />
Ankarana is a four hour drive from Amber<br />
Mountain and is one of the best places in<br />
Madagascar to see limestone tsingy. The tsingy<br />
rises up from deciduous forest and although a<br />
few tiny succulent plants cling to the rocks,<br />
they are largely bare and spiky. A few pathways<br />
wind through the tsingy, and hiking is challenging<br />
but rewarding, with some spectacular views.<br />
Several caves stretch for miles into the rocks<br />
and are inhabited by colonies of hundreds of<br />
bats. Walking in the caves, you’ll see twisted<br />
limestone formations glint in the torchlight.<br />
The deciduous forest is home to crowned and<br />
Sanford’s brown lemurs. Two nocturnal lemurs;<br />
the grey mouse lemur and the northern<br />
sportive lemur are also present.<br />
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The beach at Tsarabanjina Island<br />
Madagascar’s beaches<br />
Madagascar is fringed by sandy beaches and a<br />
number of beautiful islands. Some, such as Nosy<br />
Be, are well known and others, such as Ile Sainte<br />
Marie, Nosy Komba, Tsarabanjina and the<br />
Radama Islands, are lesser known and much<br />
sleepier. Here, it is easy to find deserted beaches<br />
with soft sand and clear water. Hermit crabs<br />
scuttle through the dense undergrowth at the<br />
back of the beaches and – particularly in the<br />
north – frigate birds can be seen soaring<br />
overhead. Many of the islands have villages on<br />
or nearby them and you become accustomed to<br />
the daily sight of fishermen paddling wooden<br />
pirogues, or dhows sailing past, often so filled<br />
with thatching palms, grain and cows that they<br />
float just inches above the water.<br />
The islands are easy to access and could not be<br />
more ideal for relaxation after some strenuous<br />
hiking in the rainforest. Nothing is better than<br />
hanging up your hiking boots and sinking your<br />
toes into warm sand. Days can be spent<br />
snorkelling, diving, pottering around on a bicycle<br />
or just snoozing in a hammock.<br />
Chilli peppers at the local market<br />
Local girl on Nosy Komba<br />
122<br />
Pirogue off Ile Ste-Marie
La Crique Beach, Ile Ste Marie<br />
Ile Sainte Marie<br />
Ile Sainte Marie is a sleepy island off Madagascar’s<br />
northeast coast, ringed by deserted beaches<br />
with soft sand and palm trees, traditional fishing<br />
villages, and just a handful of small lodges. The<br />
island is renowned for its seafood and is the best<br />
place in Madagascar to eat crab. If you are brave<br />
you can also sample the island tipple – coconut<br />
milk enlivened by a large measure of Pastis.<br />
Ile Sainte Marie is about 60 kilometres long and<br />
five kilometres wide and has a colourful history:<br />
through the 17th and 18th centuries it was a<br />
popular base for the Indian Ocean’s pirates. It has<br />
just one town, Ambodifotatra, with a couple of<br />
cafés, a large church and a busy market.<br />
Numerous villages dotted around the island have<br />
bamboo huts, fat ducks crossing the road and<br />
geese swimming in rainfilled potholes. Mango,<br />
clove, cinammon and breadfruit trees line roads<br />
The jetty at Boraha Villas<br />
A villa at Princesse Bora Lodge<br />
that are never far from the beach. If you cycle<br />
through the villages in the evening, you will smell<br />
the food being cooked, hear music playing from<br />
the radios, and there is often a group of men<br />
playing boules under a tree in Volihava village.<br />
Ile Sainte Marie can be visited from April right<br />
through until December, but is particularly<br />
rewarding from July to September when groups<br />
of humpback whales come to breed and calve in<br />
the calm waters of the Indian Ocean. The cloves<br />
are harvested in November and the mangos and<br />
litchis come into season in December: only the<br />
months of January to March are marred by the<br />
cyclone season. With all these enticing features<br />
just a short flight from Antananarivo, it is<br />
surprising that this island has remained so<br />
thoroughly unspoiled.<br />
PRINCESSE BORA LODGE,<br />
ILE SAINTE MARIE<br />
Princesse Bora Lodge is situated in a grove of<br />
palm trees on the south-west side of the island.<br />
The beach has white sand shelving into a<br />
sheltered lagoon and faces west, ideal for<br />
spectacular sunsets. Accommodation is in 20 villas<br />
with decks and hammocks, there is an infinity<br />
pool and a dining room serving good French and<br />
Malagasy cuisine. The lodge is particularly pretty<br />
at night when it is lit by paraffin lanterns.<br />
BORAHA VILLAS,<br />
ILE SAINTE MARIE<br />
Boraha Villas is a small lodge located on a hilltop<br />
on the east coast of the island. The 13 bungalows<br />
have hammocks and ocean views. The lodge is<br />
well known for its food and the crab is a<br />
speciality. You can eat in the dining room or,<br />
better still, on the end of the jetty, surrounded by<br />
the clear turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.<br />
Boraha Villas<br />
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Pirogue offshore from Anjajavy<br />
Anjajavy Private<br />
Nature Reserve<br />
With an idyllically remote location on<br />
Madagascar’s northwest coast, Anjajavy is reached<br />
only by air. Flying towards the airstrip you pass<br />
thick forest that stops abruptly at the sea, shading<br />
white sand coves separated by limestone<br />
headlands. A handful of dhows and pirogues bob<br />
in the water and in small clearings you see the<br />
thatched huts of the Sakalava fishing villages.<br />
The Anjajavy Private Nature Reserve covers an<br />
area of 450 hectares and is predominantly dry<br />
deciduous forest. There are over 1,800 floral<br />
species to be found here, most endemic and<br />
several medicinal. Wildlife is prolific and a walk<br />
through the forest reveals chameleons, frogs<br />
and spore of bush-pigs and the elusive fossa.<br />
The pool at Anjajavy L’Hôtel<br />
124<br />
Sifaka<br />
There are two diurnal lemur species, the<br />
common brown lemur and Coquerel’s sifaka,<br />
both of which are easily seen. Nocturnal species<br />
include sportive and mouse lemurs.<br />
A stay at Anjajavy is as much about the coast as<br />
the forest. Boat trips explore the mysterious<br />
islands of Moramba Bay, where there are sacred<br />
baobab trees and Sakalava tombs tucked high in<br />
caves and on ledges in the limestone cliffs.<br />
Running the length of the reserve is a series of<br />
small coves, each one more beautiful than the<br />
last. Paths lead from one to the other meaning<br />
that you can take a picnic and your snorkelling<br />
equipment and spend an afternoon on your<br />
own private beach.<br />
ANJAJAVY L’HÔTEL, ANJAJAVY<br />
PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE<br />
Anjajavy is set in extensive tropical gardens,<br />
backed by thick forest and looking out over the<br />
turquoise waters of the Mozambique Channel.<br />
There are 25 air-conditioned rosewood villas, all<br />
of which face the sea and are a step away from<br />
the beach. Early in the morning, Madagascar<br />
lovebirds, red fodys and Madagascar wagtails flit<br />
about the gardens. In the afternoons, groups of<br />
brown lemurs and Coquerel’s sifakas leap through<br />
the trees to the forest behind. The atmosphere is<br />
warm and relaxed at Anjajavy and it is a perfect<br />
place to lounge by the pool, explore idyllic<br />
beaches and savour the excellent food, especially<br />
the freshly-baked pastries. There are also plenty<br />
of active options, including walks in the forest,<br />
village visits, boat trips in the mangroves, sailing,<br />
snorkelling, and kayaking. We recommend that<br />
you stay for at least five days to really explore<br />
this remote and idyllic area.<br />
A rosewood chalet at Anjajavy L’Hôtel
One of Anjajavy's beaches<br />
Baobab Beach<br />
Tsara Komba, Nosy Komba<br />
View from a chalet at Tsara Komba<br />
Nosy Komba<br />
Nosy Komba is a beautiful island a few kilometres<br />
away from the mainland, known for its population<br />
of habituated black lemurs. Hills fold dramatically<br />
into the water, creating sandy coves and sheltered<br />
harbours for fishing villages. The island’s main<br />
settlement is Ampangorinana, where the villagers<br />
now have a keen eye for business: the dusty lanes<br />
are lined with embroidered tablecloths, woven<br />
baskets and wood carvings. Outside the village,<br />
island life is quiet. There are numerous deserted<br />
coves to explore as well as paths that lead<br />
through tavy farms and into the hills where you<br />
will find birds, chameleons and black lemurs.<br />
TSARA KOMBA, NOSY KOMBA<br />
Tsara Komba is a characterful little property set<br />
above an idyllic beach on Nosy Komba. Granite<br />
pathways flanked by beautiful tropical flowers<br />
lead you from the beach up to the eight<br />
thatched bungalows dotted around the hillside.<br />
Each bungalow has a large bedroom and<br />
bathroom and shady veranda with stunning sea<br />
view. Also perched on the hillside are the<br />
restaurant and bar, shaded by thatch but open<br />
to the sea breeze. The restaurant serves excellent<br />
Malagasy and French food with the emphasis on<br />
seafood. There is a good selection of wine as well<br />
as Tsara Komba’s famous coconut rum punch.<br />
Baobab Beach<br />
Baobab Beach is a remote stretch of coastline on<br />
the furthest tip of the Anjanojano Peninsula, only<br />
accessible by boat from the small fishing village of<br />
Ankify or the island of Nosy Be. There is a long<br />
stretch of beach, backed by forest and dotted<br />
with baobab trees. The forest is home to a<br />
number of lemurs including a troop of fifty which<br />
are seen most days. Turtles use the beach to<br />
nest and visitors can often watch the young<br />
turtles hatch. Offshore, humpback whales may be<br />
seen during the seasonal migration from July to<br />
September and dolphins are present year-round.<br />
EDEN LODGE, BAOBAB BEACH<br />
Eden Lodge is built on the edge of Baobab Beach<br />
in grounds of 20 acres. It prides itself on its<br />
eco-credentials with 90% of its energy provided<br />
by solar panels. There are eight tents set under<br />
makuti thatch. At the front of each tent, a shady<br />
veranda has ocean views whilst at the back, an<br />
en suite bathroom opens onto a private massage<br />
area. An open air dining room serves good<br />
Malagasy and Oriental cuisine. Snorkelling from<br />
the beach at Eden is particularly rewarding as<br />
there is abundant healthy coral and a good<br />
number of turtles. Chameleons and lemurs are<br />
readily seen in the gardens.<br />
Eden Lodge<br />
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One of Tsarabanjina’s beautiful beaches<br />
The Nosy Mitsio Archipelago<br />
The Nosy Mitsio Archipelago is a long way from<br />
the mainland and accessible only by speedboat.<br />
Skimming over the water, you often glimpse<br />
bottle nosed dolphins and green turtles coming<br />
up for air. The arrival is breathtaking, as your boat<br />
slows amongst tiny islands, lush with tropical<br />
vegetation and ringed with powder-white<br />
beaches. Few parts of Madagascar suffer from<br />
light pollution and this is no exception: at night<br />
the stars glitter brightly over the water. The<br />
archipelago is made up of about a dozen islands.<br />
La Grande Mitsio is the largest with the small<br />
farming villages of Antakarana and Akalava on it.<br />
Tsarabanjina is beautiful with volcanic rocks, palms<br />
and badamier trees and four gently shelving<br />
beaches. Nosy Ankarea is surrounded by coral<br />
reefs, while Les Quatres Frères is made up of<br />
four imposing silver basalt rocks, covered by<br />
hundreds of nesting seabirds.<br />
Bungalow at Tsarabanjina Island<br />
126<br />
Coral, Tsarabanjina<br />
TSARABANJINA ISLAND,<br />
NOSY MITSIO ARCHIPELAGO<br />
As soon as you step off the boat from Nosy Be<br />
onto Tsarabanjina Island, you will be handed a<br />
mask, snorkel and flippers. Then you walk<br />
barefoot to your villa, hop into your hammock<br />
and relax – your stay has begun. Tsarabanjina<br />
Island covers just 22 hectares, with 18 guest<br />
bungalows linked by sandy paths that weave in<br />
and out of the coconut palms and reach four<br />
beaches, all with powder white sand and<br />
turquoise waters. Days can be spent snorkelling,<br />
diving, kayaking and enjoying the excellent<br />
French cuisine served up by the chef in the<br />
beachside restaurant.<br />
Sailing in Madagascar<br />
Chartering a yacht allows guests a<br />
unique opportunity to explore totally<br />
untouched islands off Madagascar’s<br />
northwest coast. You can sail to Nosy<br />
Komba, the Nosy Mitsio Islands or the<br />
fabulously remote Radama Islands.<br />
We will design a route to match your<br />
interests, be they snorkelling, diving,<br />
fishing or visiting private beaches. At<br />
the end of the charter, the skipper will<br />
drop you off at your next hotel.<br />
We can arrange for you to charter one<br />
of seven vessels, ranging in size from<br />
small yachts for two or four guests to<br />
catamarans sleeping eight or more.<br />
The yachts come with an experienced<br />
skipper and chef and can be chartered<br />
for anything from three days to a few<br />
weeks. The yachts are well priced<br />
making this a very affordable option.
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Madagascar specialists to<br />
start planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 585<br />
Getting around<br />
Antananarivo<br />
Antsirabe<br />
Ranomafana<br />
Ambalavao<br />
Ambola<br />
Isalo National Park<br />
Anakao<br />
Ankarana<br />
Nosy Komba<br />
Antananarivo<br />
Joffreville<br />
Ile Sainte Marie<br />
There are two main ways to get around<br />
Madagascar, by air or in a car driven by an<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> guide. As a general rule, people tend to<br />
fly around the north and drive in the south. In<br />
Northern Madagascar, distances are huge and<br />
roads poor and for this reason it is best to fly.<br />
Air Madagascar has a network of domestic flights,<br />
all of which originate in Antananarivo and radiate<br />
to airports in the north where you will meet your<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> guide and head off to explore. The main<br />
road south from Antananarivo, the Route 7, is a<br />
tar road winding through a number of villages and<br />
towns. It’s a scenic route and a trip exploring the<br />
south takes around ten days.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✕ ✕ ✕ ~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Madagascar runs across several latitudes and its<br />
climate varies. Broadly speaking, the north is hot<br />
and tropical, the west temperate, the east wet<br />
and the south dry. In April, May and June there<br />
are some heavy downpours, but these are<br />
interspersed with sunshine. The country is green<br />
and fresh after the rain and lemurs and reptiles<br />
are active and readily seen. June, July and August<br />
are cool and dry and ideal for exploring. The<br />
whales arrive on Ile Sainte-Marie in July and<br />
remain until the end of September. September,<br />
October and November are particularly lovely as<br />
the weather is warm, the jacarandas are in flower<br />
and many lemurs have young. The most rain falls<br />
from January to March and these are the only<br />
months in which we advise against travel.<br />
Time difference: GMT+3 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 12 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Madagascar on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Classic Southern<br />
Madagascar<br />
This is a journey through the towns, villages and<br />
diverse national parks of Southern Madagascar.<br />
Meeting your guide at the airport, you enjoy an<br />
evening in Antananarivo before heading south at<br />
a leisurely pace. As you travel, you will see paddy<br />
fields, zebu carts and colourful roadside stalls. In<br />
the parks you will hike in the rainforest, across<br />
plains and to rock pools and waterfalls. You should<br />
see numerous lemurs as well as chameleons and<br />
frogs. The trip ends with four days relaxing on<br />
the beach.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4-5<br />
Day 6<br />
Days 7-8<br />
Days 9-10<br />
Fly from the UK to Antananarivo via<br />
Paris overnight.<br />
Arrive in Antananarivo for one night<br />
at Pavillion de L’Emyrne.<br />
Guided drive to Antsirabe for one<br />
night. Afternoon exploring Antsirabe.<br />
Guided drive to Ranomafana for two<br />
nights at Setam Lodge. Wildlife walks<br />
in Ranomafana with your guide.<br />
Guided drive to Ambalavao for<br />
one night.<br />
Guided drive to Isalo National Park<br />
for two nights at Relais de la Reine.<br />
Wildlife walks in the Isalo with<br />
your guide.<br />
Guided drive to Anakao for two<br />
nights at Anakao Ocean Lodge.<br />
Days 11-13 Boat transfer to Ambola for three<br />
nights at Hotel Ambola.<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Fly to Antananarivo and then Paris.<br />
Fly from Paris to the UK. Arrive<br />
back in the UK in the morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
You can extend your trip by flying up to Anjajavy<br />
Private Nature Reserve. Stay for three nights and<br />
explore the forests on foot and the idyllic coastline<br />
by boat. Every afternoon, tea is taken in the ‘Oasis’,<br />
a beautiful garden where Coquerel’s sifakas and<br />
brown lemurs leap through the trees. With<br />
fabulous cuisine and unparalleled service, Anjajavy<br />
offers a luxurious end to a trip around Madagascar.<br />
Northern Madagascar<br />
Explorer<br />
The Northern Madagascar Explorer starts with<br />
a relaxing three days on the island of Ile Sainte-<br />
Marie. From here you fly to Amber Mountain to<br />
hike in the rainforest before driving to Ankarana<br />
National Park with its striking limestone tsingy.<br />
From Ankarana a beautiful drive through villages<br />
and cocoa and ylang ylang plantations takes you to<br />
the tiny port of Ankify. Leave your guide here and<br />
sail to the idyllic hideaway of Tsara Komba for<br />
three days’ relaxation on the beach.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-4<br />
Day 5<br />
Days 6-8<br />
Day 9<br />
Fly from the UK to Antananarivo via<br />
Paris overnight.<br />
Arrive in Madagascar. Fly to Ile<br />
Sainte Marie for three nights at<br />
Princesse Bora Lodge. Explore Ile<br />
Sainte Marie.<br />
Fly to Antananarivo for one night at<br />
Pavillion de L’Emyrne.<br />
Fly to Diego and meet your guide.<br />
Drive to Joffreville for three nights at<br />
The Litchi Tree. Wildlife walks in<br />
Amber Mountain with your guide.<br />
Guided drive to Ankarana for one<br />
night at Relais de Ankarana.<br />
Afternoon hike in Ankarana<br />
National Park.<br />
Days 10-12 Guided drive to Ankify. Boat transfer<br />
to Nosy Komba for three nights at<br />
Tsara Komba.<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Boat transfer to Nosy Be and fly to<br />
Antananarivo. Fly to Paris overnight.<br />
Fly to the UK. Arrive back in the UK<br />
in the morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
From Tsara Komba take a private yacht charter<br />
around the islands off Madagascar’s northwest<br />
coast. Sail to the remote Nosy Mitsio Archipelago<br />
or Radama Islands. You can spend each day as<br />
you choose; snorkelling, fishing, exploring<br />
deserted islands or visiting tiny fishing communities.<br />
At the end of each day, you can enjoy a seafood<br />
barbeque on a private beach of your choice,<br />
before enjoying a drink under the stars on the<br />
cool of your deck.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ● 01993 838 585 ● Madagascar 127
Seychelles<br />
Soft white sand squeaks underfoot as you<br />
walk along the beach. Ghost crabs scuttle<br />
to and fro and white fairy terns flutter<br />
overhead. There is no sound apart from the<br />
lapping ocean and the wind whispering in<br />
the coconut palms. Save your own, there isn’t<br />
another footprint to be seen. Pale blue skies<br />
drift overhead and azure waters stretch to<br />
the horizon: this can only be the Seychelles.<br />
This idyllic archipelago consists of 115<br />
granite and coral islands scattered just<br />
below the equator, 30 of which are<br />
inhabited, and 85 completely untouched.<br />
Here, thousands of sooty terns, white-tailed<br />
tropic birds, frigates and boobies nest,<br />
mottled eggs lying in soft sand. Turtles<br />
lumber ashore to lay their eggs before<br />
returning to the safety of the water, where<br />
vibrant coral reefs support thriving shoals<br />
of fish and visiting pelagic species. The<br />
beaches are superb, immortalised in countless<br />
films, and the Seychelles have always been<br />
a favourite for honeymooners. With new<br />
hotels ranging from simple guesthouses to<br />
luxury spa resorts these paradise islands are<br />
one of the world’s great destinations for<br />
‘barefoot luxury’.<br />
128
<strong>Audley</strong> in the Seychelles<br />
7<br />
8<br />
9<br />
2<br />
5<br />
6<br />
1<br />
3<br />
At first glance the Seychelles look like a<br />
number of similar islands. In fact, there are a<br />
number of differences between the islands<br />
and weather can have a dramatic effect on<br />
the sea and beaches. Some islands such as<br />
La Digue can only be explored by bicycle<br />
whilst others such as Praslin and Mahé are<br />
ideal for a day’s exploration in a car. Trade<br />
winds can dramatically alter east-facing<br />
beaches in Praslin and Mahé but the beaches<br />
of Denis, Desroches and Bird are the same<br />
year round. Our team have travelled around<br />
all of the islands so we understand the<br />
subtleties of each. We have discovered<br />
particularly good reefs for snorkelling, small<br />
guesthouses that are known to few, and can<br />
tell you the best place for a fresh lobster<br />
lunch. We can tailor a relaxing beach holiday,<br />
island hopping adventure or beach time<br />
after to a safari in East Africa.<br />
Accommodation<br />
1 Anse Source D’Argent<br />
The Seychelles’ most famous<br />
beach. Picture-perfect white<br />
sand and granite boulders.<br />
2 Vallée de Mai<br />
National Park<br />
A UNESCO World Heritage<br />
Site and the place to see coco<br />
de mer palms growing in<br />
magnificent profusion.<br />
4<br />
Fairy terns on Bird Island<br />
5 Praslin<br />
A granite island with lush<br />
rainforest, pretty coves and<br />
gently shelving beaches.<br />
7 Bird Island<br />
On the edge of the Seychelles<br />
Bank, Bird Island has 800,000<br />
pairs of breeding sooty terns<br />
from May to October.<br />
8 Denis Island<br />
A small idyllic flat coral island<br />
with giant tortoises, coconut<br />
plantations and sandy beaches.<br />
9<br />
Aride & Curieuse<br />
Islands<br />
There is a wide range of accommodation in<br />
the Seychelles, from small Creole<br />
guesthouses to deluxe five-star hotels with<br />
many room types and every type of facility.<br />
For those looking for a really exclusive<br />
getaway then there are a number of private<br />
islands. We have stayed in all types of<br />
accommodation and can make<br />
recommendations from personal experience.<br />
Because of the wide variety of properties on<br />
offer, we can tailor a trip to suit both style<br />
and budget. Whether you want to stay in a<br />
converted plantation house on La Digue, a<br />
luxury spa resort on Praslin or would like<br />
your own exclusive private island, we can<br />
find somewhere to suit you perfectly. Please<br />
refer to our website for in-depth details on<br />
all of the properties that we feature.<br />
Diving in the Seychelles<br />
6 La Digue<br />
A sleepy island where transport<br />
is by bicycle and ox cart. Iconic<br />
beaches with white sand and<br />
granite boulders.<br />
Nature reserve islands with<br />
thousands of seabirds and<br />
nesting turtles.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Seychelles, please<br />
see page 137.<br />
3 Iles aux Cocos<br />
Deserted small islets surrounded<br />
by reefs, excellent for snorkelling.<br />
4 Mahé<br />
A dramatic island of granite<br />
outcrops and mountains, fringed<br />
with beaches. The capital,<br />
Victoria, is on the east coast.<br />
Turtle hatching on North Island<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Seychelles<br />
specialists 01993 838 515<br />
Seychelles 129
One of the beaches at the Constance Lémuria Resort, Praslin<br />
Praslin<br />
Praslin is one of the larger islands, being 12<br />
kilometres long and five kilometres wide. It is<br />
exceptionally pretty with thick emerald vegetation,<br />
sugar white beaches and pale turquoise waters.<br />
Offshore, coral reefs surround the island and small<br />
atolls are visited by seabirds and nesting turtles.<br />
The pace of life on Praslin is gentle and unhurried.<br />
Small villages bask in the sun, rainbow-coloured<br />
shops sell banana bread and smoked sailfish<br />
sandwiches, and bulbuls babble in the trees.<br />
Whilst a sleepy island, there is plenty to see and<br />
do. In the centre of the island is the Vallée de<br />
Mai National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage<br />
Site and the place to see a profusion of coco de<br />
mer palms. Diving and snorkelling are lovely, with<br />
reefs surrounded by haloes of butterflyfish,<br />
sweetlips, damselfish and more. You might want<br />
to take a boat trip to the nature reserve islands<br />
of Cousin, Aride or Curieuse with their thousands<br />
of seabirds, or simply snooze on a beach with a<br />
picnic on the sand beside you.<br />
A room at Lemuria Resort<br />
CONSTANCE LÉMURIA RESORT,<br />
ANSE KERLAN, PRASLIN<br />
Constance Lémuria Resort is a five-star resort<br />
situated above a cluster of beaches at Anse<br />
Kerlan. The resort has been carefully designed and<br />
has 105 suites and villas, accessed by palm-lined<br />
paths. Each suite has a sense of space and is<br />
fitted with every facility including air-conditioning,<br />
television, CD players, and bath and shower in<br />
the en suite bathrooms. Facilities in the hotel<br />
include three swimming pools, floodlit tennis<br />
courts, a spa, an 18-hole golf course, sailing and<br />
diving plus several excellent restaurants.<br />
Snorkelling off Praslin<br />
130<br />
Walking in the Vallée de Mai National Park
St Pierre Island off the coast of Praslin<br />
Evening meal at the Paradise Sun<br />
Local fruit stall<br />
Paradise Sun, Coco D’Or Beach<br />
L’Archipel<br />
L’ARCHIPEL, ANSE<br />
GOUVERNMENT, PRASLIN<br />
L’Archipel is set on a palm-studded hillside<br />
above a private stretch of beach in northern<br />
Praslin. Built in colonial style, cool cream and<br />
green villas contain 30 guest rooms and suites<br />
ranging in size from large to downright<br />
enormous. All are comfortable, with king-size<br />
beds, polished tile floors, antique tables, elegant<br />
writing desks and orchids in glass vases. Breakfast<br />
is served on large private verandas with ocean<br />
views and birds hopping about in search of<br />
croissant crumbs. There is plenty to do at<br />
L’Archipel including snorkelling, diving, fishing<br />
and trips to nearby islands.<br />
LA RESERVE, ANSE PETIT COUR,<br />
PRASLIN<br />
La Reserve is set above a private beach with<br />
white sand, granite boulders and views of<br />
Curieuse Island. Snorkelling directly off the beach<br />
is particularly good with a coral reef within easy<br />
swimming distance. The hotel itself is pretty, with<br />
a cluster of two-storey Creole style buildings,<br />
each housing four rooms. Rooms are comfortable<br />
with four-poster beds, air-conditioning and<br />
spacious en suite bathrooms. Outside, the<br />
sea-facing balcony or terrace is a lovely place to<br />
relax. The restaurant at La Reserve is built on a<br />
jetty and catches the sea breeze. There is plenty<br />
to do at the hotel, from swimming in the large<br />
pool, cycling, snorkelling or enjoying boat trips<br />
to Curieuse Island.<br />
The pool at La Reserve<br />
Superior Room, Paradise Sun<br />
PARADISE SUN, ANSE VOLBERT,<br />
PRASLIN<br />
Paradise Sun is a large hotel located at the end of<br />
Anse Volbert. There are 80 rooms in two-storey<br />
bungalows arranged in crescents around the<br />
lawns. The hotel is particularly well suited to<br />
those wanting to do lots of activities. There is a<br />
swimming pool, volleyball court and watersports<br />
centre from which you can arrange snorkel trips<br />
to the island of St Pierre and dive trips further<br />
afield. There are two restaurants and each<br />
evening a small band plays, creating a sociable<br />
and fun atmosphere. The hotel is excellent for<br />
families as swimming is in a sheltered bay and<br />
there are plenty of activities for children.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/seychelles ● 01993 838 515 ● Seychelles 131
Banyan Tree, Intendance Bay<br />
Mahé<br />
Mahé is the largest island in the Seychelles and<br />
home to the capital, Victoria. 27 kilometres long<br />
and eight wide, it is a dramatic island of granite<br />
outcrops and mountains rising from the sea, the<br />
tallest of which – Morne Seychellois – is often<br />
topped by a dusting of mist. Mahé is surrounded<br />
by coral reefs which protect the beaches and<br />
ensure tranquil seas and azure lagoons. The<br />
coastline is crinkled with picturesque coves,<br />
stretches of sugar-white sand and beaches crisscrossed<br />
with bird footprints and littered with<br />
shells. Coconut palms stretch over sculpted<br />
granite boulders and fairy terns can be heard<br />
babbling in the trees.<br />
There is much to see and do on Mahé. If you<br />
ever tire of the beaches there are walking trails<br />
in the mountains and along the coast. Victoria is<br />
fun for a morning, with its vibrant markets, leafy<br />
streets and colourful harbour. Offshore, there are<br />
coral reefs for snorkelling and little islands to<br />
explore. After a day of activities there are tiny<br />
Creole restaurants waiting for you with their<br />
tables on the sand where you can enjoy a cold<br />
drink and a spicy samosa. This is the perfect<br />
island for a relaxing stay.<br />
132<br />
View from a villa at Banyan Tree<br />
BANYAN TREE SEYCHELLES,<br />
ANSE INTENDANCE, MAHÉ<br />
Situated above the beautiful beach at Anse<br />
Intendance, Banyan Tree Seychelles is stylish and<br />
luxurious. The 60 villas are dotted around the<br />
hillside and beach, ranging from hillside pool villas<br />
to presidential villas and varying in size from large<br />
to enormous. Inside, you will want for nothing<br />
with king-size beds, big sofas, fresh flowers and<br />
sunken baths in the en suite bathrooms.<br />
Outdoors, each villa has a private pavilion with<br />
sunbeds, swimming pool and (in some villas) a<br />
Jacuzzi. The hotel prides itself on its food, with<br />
three restaurants serving a variety of Creole,<br />
Asian, Thai and European cuisine. With a refined<br />
and luxurious spa and plenty of activities, Banyan<br />
Tree Seychelles provides everything you need<br />
for a luxurious stay.<br />
Banyan Tree<br />
Suite at the Banyan Tree
North Beach, Constance Ephelia Resort<br />
Frangipani flowers A villa at the Four Seasons Resort Victoria Market, Mahe<br />
CONSTANCE EPHELIA RESORT,<br />
PORT LAUNAY, MAHÉ<br />
Constance Ephelia Resort is set in 120 hectares<br />
of lush vegetation sloping gently down to two<br />
crescent shaped beaches. It overlooks the marine<br />
park of Port Launay, with its turquoise waters<br />
and coral reefs. The resort has 267 suites, but<br />
because they are spread across such a large area<br />
it feels like a hotel half its size. All the suites are<br />
spacious with a large bedroom, sitting area and<br />
en suite bathroom. They have every facility<br />
including air-conditioning, television, CD and DVD<br />
players, iPod connection, WIFI and even a pillow<br />
menu! Nearby, an extensive spa village has 18<br />
treatment rooms and a wide variety of relaxing<br />
treatments. The resort has superb facilities<br />
including five restaurants, four swimming pools,<br />
and a well-equipped watersports centre.<br />
Constance Ephelia Resort<br />
The Four Seasons Resort<br />
FOUR SEASONS RESORT<br />
SEYCHELLES, PETITE ANSE, MAHÉ<br />
This resort has 67 villas perched in lush<br />
vegetation above the bay of Petite Anse,<br />
regarded by locals as one of the most beautiful<br />
bays on Mahé. The villas are built in a traditional<br />
Creole design featuring natural timber and brick.<br />
Some are set in the gardens whilst others are<br />
perched on the rocks and have panoramic sea<br />
views. As you would expect from a Four Seasons<br />
resort, the villas have every comfort you could<br />
wish for including a private plunge pool on the<br />
veranda. Facilities at the resort are extensive and<br />
include two restaurants, a swimming pool,<br />
watersports centre, PADI dive centre and<br />
beautiful spa situated right at the top of the hill.<br />
HILTON SEYCHELLES<br />
NORTHOLME RESORT AND SPA,<br />
BEAU VALLON, MAHÉ<br />
This hotel is located on the popular Beau<br />
Vallon Bay in northern Mahé. It has a friendly<br />
atmosphere and a feeling of understated luxury.<br />
The villas are beautiful with all the facilities you<br />
need and a large balcony with sea view. Those<br />
looking for relaxation will enjoy the infinity pool<br />
and the spa, which offers a comprehensive range<br />
of treatments. For the more active, diving,<br />
snorkelling and other watersports are available<br />
from the nearby Scuba Centre. At the end of the<br />
day enjoy an al fresco drink at the Ocean View<br />
Bar, positioned to make the most of the sunset.<br />
The Hilton Notholme Resort & Spa<br />
www.audleytravel.com/seychelles ● 01993 838 515 ● Seychelles 133
Desroches Island<br />
Denis Island<br />
Denis Island is a flat coral island about two<br />
kilometres in diameter, 95 kilometres northeast<br />
of Mahé and surrounded by white sandy beaches.<br />
Protected by offshore reefs, the water is perfect<br />
for swimming and snorkelling. On the northern<br />
tip of the island there are 25 bungalows set under<br />
casuarina trees on the edge of the beach. Each<br />
one is spacious and elegant with high-beamed<br />
ceilings, four-poster beds, air-conditioning and en<br />
suite bathrooms. There is plenty to do on Denis<br />
Island, with criss-crossed pathways accessing all<br />
the beaches. Due to the island’s situation right on<br />
the edge of the Seychelles Bank, the coral walls<br />
here plummet to 2,000 metres, resulting in a wide<br />
choice of exciting dive sites. Fishing, windsurfing,<br />
sailing and kayaking are readily available, while<br />
those looking for spots to snooze on the warm<br />
sand under a palm tree will be spoilt for choice.<br />
The lounge at Denis Island<br />
Giant tortoise on Desroches<br />
Desroches Island<br />
Desroches is the ultimate get-away-from-it-all<br />
island, with palm trees, white sand and turquoise<br />
waters. There are no cars here, and on arrival<br />
your bike is waiting outside your room, complete<br />
with water bottle and a basket for your swimming<br />
things. You can cycle through the coconut<br />
plantations to deserted beaches and pretty<br />
snorkelling spots. Desroches Island Resort offers<br />
supreme comfort in this idyllic setting. There are<br />
20 suites, set just back from the beach in the<br />
shady gardens. Each room is beautiful, with<br />
expanses of polished wooden floors, cream<br />
linens and large paintings. They have every facility<br />
including king-size beds, air-conditioning, satellite<br />
television and en suite bathroom with<br />
freestanding bath and outdoor shower. In the<br />
centre of the resort, the pool, bar and restaurant<br />
all overlook the sea. There are also a number of<br />
four-bedroom villas on the opposite side of the<br />
island which are perfect for families or groups.<br />
Whilst many come to Desroches to relax,<br />
plenty of activities are available if you’d like to<br />
explore. There is a dive centre, kayaks and<br />
windsurfers and a large boat which can be<br />
chartered on a daily basis.<br />
The pool at Denis Island<br />
134<br />
A chalet at Desroches
Fairy terns<br />
Viewpoint on North Island<br />
View from Villa 11, North Island<br />
Turtles hatching on North Island<br />
Dusk at North Island<br />
North Island<br />
Located 30 kilometres northwest of Mahé,<br />
North is one of the most exclusive private islands<br />
in the Seychelles. Just over two kilometres long<br />
and one across, it has small granite hills with<br />
fabulous viewpoints, hundreds of coconut palms<br />
and takamaka trees, and giant tortoises<br />
wandering about. There are four gently sloping<br />
white beaches where both green and hawksbill<br />
turtles nest.<br />
The pool at North Island<br />
North Island is a leading example of responsible<br />
tourism. A research centre, that guests are<br />
welcome to visit, is monitoring the turtles and<br />
nurturing rare indigenous seedlings with the aim<br />
of restoring the island’s habitats. Other activities<br />
include diving, snorkelling, sailing, private picnics<br />
on deserted beaches and relaxing treatments<br />
in the spa.<br />
Bird Island<br />
On the edge of the Seychelles Bank, 105<br />
kilometres northwest of Mahé, Bird Island lives<br />
up to its name. During the southeast trade wind<br />
(May to October), around 800,000 pairs of<br />
sooty terns nest on the northern tip of the island.<br />
Large numbers of lesser and brown noddies<br />
wander around, fairy terns are in abundance and<br />
many waders can be seen on the sand spits.<br />
Hawksbill turtles come to the beaches to lay eggs<br />
and, offshore, coral reefs are rich in marine life.<br />
Bird Island Lodge is set on the southern side of<br />
the island, a friendly and relaxed place with 24<br />
simple bungalows overlooking the beach. It is a<br />
simpler property than on many of the private<br />
islands but rooms have spacious interiors, with<br />
four-poster beds, ceiling fans, separate living areas<br />
and en suite bathrooms. There are plenty of<br />
activities on Bird Island including walking,<br />
snorkelling, diving and boat trips.<br />
Situated on the eastern beach of the island are<br />
eleven villas that are arguably the most beautiful<br />
in the Indian Ocean. Palm frond roofs stretch low<br />
over stone and wood cottages with rosewood<br />
floors, driftwood designs and fabrics in cream and<br />
earth colours. Bathrooms have sunken baths and<br />
both indoor and outdoor showers. Outside there<br />
is a large deck and private plunge pool.<br />
Diving off North Island<br />
A room at Bird Island<br />
www.audleytravel.com/seychelles ● 01993 838 515 ● Seychelles 135
Arriving at La Digue by helicopter<br />
La Digue<br />
La Digue is a sleepy island where life is relaxed<br />
and nobody is ever in a hurry. Creole houses<br />
nestle under papaya trees, with flowers<br />
overflowing from window boxes and plant pots.<br />
Fishermen dawdle along the road with fish<br />
hanging from sticks, and ox carts and bicycles are<br />
the principle forms of transport. Whilst small –<br />
just five kilometres long and three kilometres<br />
wide – La Digue is not short of exquisite beaches.<br />
The coast is lined with pretty coves, the soft<br />
white sand interspersed with granite boulders that<br />
turn pink at sunset. The beaches are flanked by<br />
coconut palms, where fairy terns and white-tailed<br />
tropicbirds are a common sight. Offshore, La<br />
Digue is surrounded by coral reefs. Here,<br />
snorkelling will reveal corals, sponges, and all<br />
manner of marine life from emperor angelfish<br />
to starfish and turtles.<br />
Although La Digue is ideal for relaxation there<br />
are gentle activities to enjoy as well. Take a bike<br />
ride along the coast, visit the coconut plantation<br />
and ramble to viewpoints and deserted beaches.<br />
Hundreds of black paradise flycatchers are<br />
protected in La Digue Vev Reserve, a lovely spot<br />
to while away a few hours wandering gentle trails<br />
through takamaka and badamier trees. Finally,<br />
you can take boat trips to the islands of Iles aux<br />
Cocos, Marianne and Les Soeurs, all of which<br />
are even quieter than La Digue.<br />
136<br />
Fleur de Lys<br />
LA DOMAINE DE L’ORANGERAIE,<br />
LA DIGUE<br />
La Domaine De L’Orangeraie has a cluster of<br />
beautiful villas set in tropical gardens. Although the<br />
property does not overlook the sea, it is only a<br />
five minute stroll or a two minute bike ride away.<br />
The villas are very comfortable and contemporary<br />
in design, each with a bedroom, living room,<br />
bathroom and leafy terrace where meals can be<br />
enjoyed. Shared facilities include a pool and<br />
restaurant which serves excellent Creole cuisine.<br />
Le Domaine De L’Orangeraie<br />
FLEUR DE LYS, LA DIGUE<br />
Fleur de Lys is set back from the beach along a<br />
leafy road with tall takamaka trees. It is a two<br />
minute cycle ride from the centre of the village<br />
and a five minute ride from the beach. This tiny<br />
property has only eight pretty and spotless chalets<br />
set in a little garden. Each has a small living room<br />
with well equipped kitchenette, as well as a<br />
bedroom and en suite bathroom. The chalets can<br />
be booked on a self-catering or bed and breakfast<br />
basis according to your preferences. This is an<br />
excellent value property and is ideal for those<br />
who enjoy some independence and want to<br />
explore at their own pace.<br />
Fisherman on a bicycle
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Praslin<br />
La Digue<br />
Masai Mara<br />
KENYA<br />
Nairobi<br />
To Mahé<br />
Please call one of our Seychelles specialists to<br />
start planning your itinerary.<br />
Victoria<br />
From<br />
Nairobi<br />
Victoria<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 515<br />
Getting around<br />
MAHÉ<br />
TANZANIA<br />
Constance<br />
Ephelia Resort<br />
MAHÉ<br />
Flying to the Seychelles for an island hopping trip<br />
or relaxation after a safari is easy. Air Seychelles<br />
operates flights from London and there are daily<br />
flights from Johannesburg and Nairobi which<br />
cover Southern and Eastern Africa respectively.<br />
Once on the islands, you can base yourself at one<br />
hotel or you may wish to island hop, staying on<br />
two or three islands. <strong>Travel</strong> between the islands is<br />
simple, as there is an excellent network of flights<br />
and small ferries. We can tailor an itinerary with<br />
any combination of islands and seamlessly transfer<br />
you from one to the other.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Situated just south of the equator, the Seychelles<br />
have a warm tropical climate, with day time<br />
temperatures ranging from 24C to 31C all year<br />
round. From May to October, a southeast trade<br />
wind can bring marginally cooler weather and<br />
fresh breezes. At this time of year beaches on<br />
some islands can be affected by seaweed –<br />
speak to our specialists who know all these<br />
beaches and which ones to avoid. The northwest<br />
monsoon wind blows from November to March,<br />
typically raising temperatures and humidity.<br />
December and January are the wettest months,<br />
but the rain falls in short sharp bursts before the<br />
sun comes out again. With such consistently<br />
warm tropical weather, the Seychelles are a<br />
good year-round destination.<br />
Time difference: GMT+4 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 11 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Seychelles on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
La Digue & Praslin<br />
Island Hop<br />
This island hopping trip explores two of the larger<br />
islands in the Seychelles; La Digue and Praslin.<br />
La Digue is a very sleepy place with a relaxed pace<br />
of life. Staying in a small guesthouse, you can set<br />
out each day on your bicycle, picnic and swimsuit<br />
in the basket for lazy days on the beach. A short<br />
ferry ride takes you to Praslin where you can stay<br />
in a boutique property on a hillside with stunning<br />
sea views. Hire a car for the day to explore the<br />
island, or take a snorkel trip to a nearby reef.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-5<br />
Days 6-12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Fly from the UK to Mahé overnight.<br />
Fly from Mahé to Praslin. Ferry<br />
transfer to La Digue for four nights at<br />
Fleur de Lys. Explore La Digue by<br />
bicycle and ox-cart. Enjoy swimming<br />
and snorkelling.<br />
Ferry transfer to Praslin for seven<br />
nights at L’Archipel. Explore Praslin<br />
by car and relax at the beach or<br />
beside the pool.<br />
Road transfer to Praslin Airport. Fly<br />
to Mahé and then the UK overnight.<br />
Arrive back in the UK in the morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
The Seychelles combines well with a safari in<br />
Kenya or Tanzania. Spend a week or more in the<br />
large game reserves in either of these countries<br />
before flying to the islands. A night’s stay in Nairobi<br />
is required in between, and we minimise your time<br />
here, flying you into the city at dusk and out to<br />
Mahé at dawn. Due to good flight connections,<br />
you can be on safari in the Mara in the afternoon<br />
and enjoying a large seafood lunch on the beach<br />
in the Seychelles the next day.<br />
Mara & Mahé Explorer<br />
This itinerary gives you the very best of both<br />
worlds; a safari in Africa’s most famous game<br />
reserve followed by time on an idyllic beach in the<br />
Seychelles. Stay in the heart of the Masai Mara and<br />
enjoy the prolific game including lion, leopard,<br />
elephant, buffalo, giraffe and lots more. Moving<br />
from the Mara to Mahé, the pace of life slows<br />
considerably and you can’t avoid relaxing into<br />
island life. Stay above two crescent-shaped coves<br />
on Mahé and enjoy swimming, snorkelling,<br />
luxurious spa treatments and of course, time<br />
snoozing on the beach.<br />
Day 1<br />
Days 2-5<br />
Day 6<br />
Days 7-13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />
Arrive in Nairobi. Fly to the Masai<br />
Mara for four nights at Little<br />
Governor’s Camp. Explore the Mara<br />
on game drives and walking safaris.<br />
Fly to Nairobi for one night.<br />
Fly to Mahé for seven nights at the<br />
Constance Ephelia Resort. Explore<br />
Mahé by car and relax at the beach<br />
or beside the pool.<br />
Fly from Mahé to the UK overnight.<br />
Arrive back in the UK in the morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
End your trip in the Seychelles with a stay on a<br />
private island. Fly from Mahé to Denis Island for a<br />
Robinson Crusoe style hideaway. Take time to<br />
ramble around the island, visiting the coconut<br />
plantations, giant tortoises and deserted beaches.<br />
Sip a glass of wine on your villa terrace and admire<br />
the sea views, enjoy seafood barbecues on the<br />
beach, and fall asleep to the sound of the waves<br />
and wind in the palm trees.<br />
Arriving on Bird Island<br />
www.audleytravel.com/seychelles ● 01993 838 515 ● Seychelles 137
Mauritius<br />
Located 20 degrees south of the equator,<br />
Mauritius is a warm, welcoming and<br />
tropical island. Many visitors are surprised<br />
by the diversity of the island’s scenery, as<br />
aside from the beautiful coastline there are<br />
soaring mountains, subtropical forest and<br />
plains full of sugar cane. The island is<br />
surrounded by coral reefs offering some of<br />
the richest diving spots in the Indian Ocean.<br />
Tiny fishing villages in hidden coves<br />
wait to be discovered, and restaurants peer<br />
out over azure coastlines. The diverse<br />
cultures that have settled here have had a<br />
strong influence on the cuisine, which is of<br />
a high standard. Mauritius is a wonderful<br />
place to visit, especially when the weather<br />
in the northern hemisphere is cold and wet.<br />
The island has a superb array of hotels<br />
ranging from small mountain hideaways<br />
to coastal boutique hotels and luxurious<br />
resorts. We have found a number of<br />
beautiful properties ranging from<br />
affordable guesthouses to sumptuous villas.<br />
All have a wide variety of activities from<br />
mountain biking to snorkelling and many<br />
have spas – perfect for pampering and<br />
some serious relaxation.<br />
138
<strong>Audley</strong> in Mauritius<br />
The botanical garden of<br />
Pamplemousses<br />
4<br />
3<br />
The majority of companies featuring<br />
Mauritius will do so as a ‘fly and flop’ beach<br />
destination. However, knowing the island<br />
from personal experience as we do, our<br />
recommendations go beyond merely<br />
spending two weeks on the sunlounger.<br />
There are many undiscovered corners of<br />
this island; pretty fishing villages, sugar cane<br />
plantations with private houses on them,<br />
and mountains where you can hike amongst<br />
stunning scenery. We often suggest<br />
combining two hotels, one in the mountains<br />
and the other on the coast. This allows you<br />
time to enjoy the diversity of scenery and<br />
means that you get a greater understanding<br />
of the Mauritian culture. We choose hotels<br />
from our personal experience and tailor<br />
unique trips to suit individual tastes. As there<br />
are good flight connections to both East and<br />
Southern Africa Mauritius makes an ideal<br />
beach add-on to a safari.<br />
Accommodation<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3 Île aux Cerfs<br />
A beautiful little island off the<br />
east coast that is ideally<br />
explored by catamaran.<br />
4 Grand Baie<br />
A pretty Mauritian village with<br />
some excellent restaurants<br />
and boutiques.<br />
Port Louis, Mauritius<br />
There are two main types of hotel on<br />
Mauritius – small mountain hideaways and<br />
luxurious coastal resorts. In the mountains<br />
we have hand picked lodges tucked away in<br />
the tropical vegetation and close to walking<br />
and cycle trails. The focus here is on good<br />
food, fresh mountain air and relaxation –<br />
ideal for recovering after an international<br />
flight. On the coast there are numerous large<br />
resorts. We have carefully picked just a<br />
handful, those we believe to be the best that<br />
Mauritius has to offer. Our selected hotels<br />
are tastefully blended into the sub-tropical<br />
surroundings in quiet locations, with good<br />
food and impeccable service. Our specialists,<br />
who know Mauritius well, will speak to you<br />
about your preferences and will suggest<br />
hotels to suit you perfectly. We have<br />
extensive details about all the hotels and<br />
guest houses we recommend on our<br />
website: www.audleytravel.com/mauritius<br />
Find out more<br />
A room on stilts at Le Prince Maurice<br />
1 Le Morne Peninsula<br />
A beautiful peninsula in<br />
southwest Mauritius with lovely<br />
fishing villages in pretty coves.<br />
2 Chamarel Mountains<br />
With superb hiking and birding,<br />
these can be visited on a day<br />
trip or while staying at the<br />
Lakaz Chamarel villas.<br />
Sailing on the Magic Sails catamaran<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Mauritius, please<br />
see page 142.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Mauritius<br />
specialists 01993 838 520<br />
Mauritius 139
The beach at Maradiva Villas<br />
Chamarel Mountains<br />
In southwest Mauritius, the Chamarel Mountains<br />
are protected by the Black River Gorges National<br />
Park, and are one of the most pristine and<br />
undeveloped tracts of land on the island.<br />
Undulating subtropical forest, waterfalls and<br />
streams make this a world apart from the<br />
better-known coastline. Hiking and cycling can<br />
be enjoyed in the national park and traditional<br />
Mauritian restaurants nestle in the hills, with<br />
sublime views. Whilst radically different from the<br />
coast, this area is in fact only fifteen minutes from<br />
some of the most undeveloped beaches in<br />
Mauritius. You can therefore spend a morning<br />
hiking followed by an afternoon swim in the<br />
Indian Ocean.<br />
Lakaz Chamarel<br />
140<br />
Le Morne Mountain in southwest Mauritius<br />
LAKAZ CHAMAREL,<br />
CHAMAREL MOUNTAINS<br />
This luxurious boutique hotel has a peaceful<br />
setting in the Chamarel Mountains. It has a<br />
recently installed spa, two swimming pools and a<br />
stylish lounge area where you can sit and while<br />
away the hours with a book. The luxurious villas<br />
are thoughtfully decorated with antique French<br />
furniture and each has a private plunge pool<br />
surrounded by sub-tropical vegetation. As you sit<br />
and relax in your garden, only the sound of the<br />
birds will disturb you. Manager Frederique serves<br />
excellent food in the main lodge, and is on hand<br />
to help you make the most of your stay.<br />
Tamarin Bay<br />
On the sheltered west coast of Mauritius,<br />
Tamarin Bay sits in one of the island’s prettiest<br />
locations. The turquoise waters of the bay lap at<br />
the vast, powdery white beach, with the verdant<br />
mountains of the Chamarel Range as backdrop.<br />
As the bay is on the southwest side of the island,<br />
it is in lee of the southeast trade winds, and<br />
therefore maintains a lovely climate throughout<br />
the year. Both the mountains and the nearby Le<br />
Morne Peninsula are worth a day’s exploration<br />
either by car or taxi.<br />
MARADIVA VILLAS, TAMARIN BAY<br />
Maradiva Villas sits in large tropical gardens above<br />
one of the most iconic beaches on the island.<br />
No detail has been overlooked, with interiors<br />
inspired by French colonial, Indian and Arabic<br />
design. The 65 individual villas are sumptuous,<br />
and superbly laid-out with extensive outdoor<br />
seating areas around a lovely plunge pool.<br />
Every possible facility is provided, from walk-in<br />
wardrobes to flat-screen plasma televisions and<br />
24 hour butler service. Choose from relaxed<br />
beachside dining or refined restaurants serving<br />
Pan-Asian and Indian cuisine. There are extensive<br />
sporting facilities and the Indian spa is of world<br />
class quality.
The beach at Constance Belle Mare Plage A junior suite at Le Prince Maurice Dinner at Constance Belle Mare Plage<br />
Le Prince Maurice<br />
East Coast Mauritius<br />
Mauritius’ east coast has long white sandy beaches<br />
forming perfect half-moon coves. Sheltered<br />
lagoons and accessible reefs make for superb<br />
snorkelling and diving. Inland, you find a melting<br />
pot of Hindu and French culture; traditional<br />
villages with leafy squares, small markets, cafés<br />
and shops. The hotels in this region employ the<br />
majority of their staff from the nearby villages<br />
and as a result feel very Mauritian in character.<br />
The service is excellent and by chatting to the<br />
hotel employees you can learn about the area<br />
as well as gaining an understanding of everyday<br />
life on the island.<br />
Suite on stilts at Le Prince Maurice<br />
Junior Suite at the Belle Mare Plage<br />
LE PRINCE MAURICE, EAST<br />
COAST MAURITIUS<br />
This wonderfully designed property has all the<br />
luxuries of a five-star hotel and presents them<br />
tastefully, with an air of understated elegance.<br />
It stands in 60 acres of private land with a calm<br />
lagoon, well tended gardens and an idyllic sandy<br />
beach. There are 89 suites, housed either in<br />
thatched villas around the garden or stilted villas<br />
above the lagoon. The suites have a classy, French<br />
feel which works beautifully. They are well<br />
equipped with king-size beds, soft cream chairs,<br />
television and DVD systems and large en suite<br />
marble bathrooms. Each suite has its own private<br />
balcony or terrace. The facilities at the hotel<br />
include a pool, library, extensive boathouse, wide<br />
variety of watersports and a nearby golf course.<br />
A luxurious spa and a floating restaurant<br />
complete the list of highlights.<br />
CONSTANCE BELLE MARE PLAGE,<br />
EAST COAST MAURITIUS<br />
The Constance Belle Mare Plage is spread out<br />
amongst leafy subtropical vegetation, and is<br />
perfect for families and couples looking for<br />
extensive facilities and relaxation in the vicinity<br />
of gorgeous beaches. There are 256 rooms set<br />
in two-storey houses around lush tropical<br />
gardens, each with their own private balcony or<br />
terrace looking out onto the gardens or beach.<br />
The hotel has excellent sporting facilities<br />
including two championship golf courses, five<br />
swimming pools, floodlit tennis courts and a<br />
profusion of watersports including water skiing,<br />
windsurfing, laser sailing and snorkelling. After a<br />
day of activities, choose from a range of<br />
excellent restaurants serving Creole and<br />
international cuisine.<br />
The links course at Belle Mare Plage<br />
www.audleytravel.com/mauritius ● 01993 838 520 ● Mauritius 141
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itinerary shown is designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and is a route that<br />
works particularly well. We can use this as a basis<br />
to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
The Residence<br />
The Residence Hotel<br />
Please call one of our Mauritius specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 520<br />
Getting around<br />
Lakaz<br />
Chamarel<br />
Mauritius<br />
Airport<br />
The beach at The Residence<br />
THE RESIDENCE, EAST COAST<br />
MAURITIUS<br />
Blending tastefully finished colonial architecture<br />
with breezy, open spaces, The Residence has<br />
a lovely airy feel to it. Facing one of the most<br />
sublime east coast beaches, and with an<br />
extensive outdoor pool area, this hotel is a<br />
pleasure to wander around. Marble floors lead<br />
to the hotel’s 163 rooms and suites. All are<br />
luxurious and well equipped with king-size<br />
beds, television, telephone, air-conditioning and<br />
en suite bathrooms with bathtub and shower.<br />
Shuttered windows and French doors lead out<br />
onto large balconies. There is a lovely spa<br />
offering relaxing and soothing treatments, and<br />
tennis courts and windsurfing, waterskiing and<br />
sailing are available for the more active.<br />
Mauritius is easy to access both from the UK and<br />
Africa. There are direct flights from Heathrow to<br />
Mauritius several times a week, usually overnight.<br />
Several flights a day depart from Johannesburg to<br />
Mauritius making it simple to combine a safari in<br />
Africa with time on the island. <strong>Travel</strong> around the<br />
island’s excellent network of roads is easy and we<br />
will transfer you from one hotel to another in a<br />
private car. If you would like to explore the island<br />
yourself, car hire can be arranged.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Mauritius has a warm subtropical climate. In the<br />
dry season from May to October, temperatures<br />
range from 20C to 25C, and cooling trade<br />
winds from the southeast keep down the<br />
humidity levels. From November to April the<br />
climate becomes hotter and more humid and<br />
temperatures range from around 25C to 30C.<br />
The rains fall at this time, with the peak rains –<br />
and sometimes cyclones – occurring in<br />
January and February.<br />
Time difference: GMT+4 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 12 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Mauritius on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Mountains and Coasts<br />
This itinerary allows you to explore the best of<br />
both worlds in Mauritius. The first few days are<br />
spent in the mountains, an ideal antidote to an<br />
international flight. Stay in a villa with your own<br />
private pool and spend days hiking, cycling, reading<br />
or enjoying a pampering treatment in the spa.<br />
From the mountains, drop down to the coast and<br />
stay at one of Mauritius’ most elegant hotels, The<br />
Residence. On an idyllic crescent of white sand,<br />
this hotel has every facility necessary to make your<br />
stay supremely comfortable.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2-4<br />
Day 5-11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Fly from the UK to Mauritius.<br />
Arrive in Mauritius. Private car<br />
transfer to Lakaz Chamarel for<br />
three nights. Walk in the<br />
Chamarel Mountains.<br />
Private road transfer to The<br />
Residence for seven nights. Swim,<br />
snorkel and relax beside the pool<br />
or on the beach.<br />
Private car transfer to the airport.<br />
Fly from Mauritius to London<br />
overnight.<br />
Arrive back in the UK in the<br />
early morning.<br />
Stay longer<br />
It is easy to combine a safari with a trip to<br />
Mauritius. After a week or more in Namibia,<br />
Botswana, South Africa or Zambia, nothing beats<br />
a stay on this beautiful island. With daily flights<br />
departing from Johannesburg, you can choose the<br />
length of time you’d like on safari before heading<br />
to the beach. Speak to our specialists who can<br />
tailor a trip to suit you.<br />
Ocean Front Room at The Residence<br />
142<br />
Walking in the Chamarel Mountains<br />
Breakfast at The Residence
Useful information<br />
Snorkelling in Lake Malawi Cheetah in the Vumbura Reserve, Botswana Viewing rhino in Meru National Park<br />
Group tours<br />
We offer a comprehensive programme of<br />
guided small group tours, typically no more than<br />
16 travellers. Not only does this make for a<br />
sociable group but it also enables us to use<br />
smaller and more characterful accommodation<br />
and venture away from the large tour groups.<br />
We offer regular tours to countries across Africa<br />
which have become very popular and are an<br />
alternative to a tailor-made itinerary.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/groups<br />
We can also arrange private tours, whether this<br />
is for a group of friends, those with a special<br />
interest or a fundraising trip for charity. For larger<br />
groups we may be able to offer discounts or a<br />
free place to the organiser. See our website or<br />
call us to discuss your plans.<br />
Flights<br />
A number of airlines fly directly to Africa from<br />
London Heathrow. We choose from these<br />
airlines based on current airfares and taxes,<br />
your preference for travel and your itinerary.<br />
Connecting flights from regional UK airports can<br />
also be arranged so please tell us if you’d like to<br />
fly from your local airport as this may influence<br />
the airline we choose.<br />
East Africa is easily reached with direct flights<br />
going to Nairobi in Kenya, Dar es Salaam in<br />
Tanzania and Entebbe in Uganda. Rwanda is<br />
easily reached through good regional connections<br />
in Nairobi. Flying to East Africa usually takes<br />
around nine hours and most flights are overnight.<br />
As there is little time change, whilst tired after<br />
an international flight you will not have to<br />
grapple with jet-lag.<br />
In Southern Africa there is a direct flight into<br />
Lusaka in Zambia and numerous flights into South<br />
Africa’s Johannesburg and Cape Town airports.<br />
Namibia can be reached either via Frankfurt or<br />
through Johannesburg. Both Botswana and Malawi<br />
are usually reached by connecting through<br />
Johannesburg. Flying direct into Southern Africa<br />
usually takes around eleven hours. Nearly all<br />
flights are overnight and there is little time<br />
difference meaning jet-lag is not a problem.<br />
The Indian Ocean islands have good flight<br />
connections with direct flights to both the<br />
Seychelles and Mauritius. There are excellent<br />
connections through Paris to Antananarivo<br />
in Madagascar. Many Indian Ocean flights<br />
are overnight.<br />
However you chose to reach your African<br />
destination there are usually a number of<br />
options. Our specialists will discuss all the<br />
options with you and advise you of the best<br />
route to take for your trip.<br />
Terms & Conditions and<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> Insurance<br />
Your booking is subject to the Terms and<br />
Conditions of <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong>, which we will<br />
include with your personalised itinerary and can<br />
also be found on our website. It is vital that you<br />
have adequate travel insurance and we are able<br />
to suggest a number of policies either for the<br />
duration of your trip or on an annual basis.<br />
AITO Membership<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> is a member of the Association<br />
of Independent Tour Operators. The<br />
Association represents Britain’s leading<br />
independent tour operators and encourages high<br />
standards of quality and service. <strong>Audley</strong> abides<br />
by the Association’s Code of Conduct and<br />
adheres to the AITO Quality Charter which can<br />
be viewed on www.aito.com.<br />
Photography in this brochure<br />
We would like to thank the following<br />
photographers for the images used in this<br />
brochure:<br />
Ariadne Van Zandbergen, Afripics, Alamy, Istock,<br />
Dana Allen, David Rogers, David Fettes, Daryl<br />
Balfour, Gary Cook, Javed Jafferji, Jamie Marshall,<br />
Judy Hurd, Larry Flinner, Scott Hurd, Michael<br />
Poliza, Mike Myers, Wilderness Safaris, Russell<br />
Friedman, Michael Benadi, Caroline Culbert,<br />
Dave Hamman, James Rawdon, Thomas Savage,<br />
Raymond Sahuquet, Spike Williamson and<br />
members of the <strong>Audley</strong> Africa team.<br />
All images used in this brochure were obtained<br />
in good faith by <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Group Limited<br />
and in the belief that all necessary consents and<br />
clearances were obtained for their use. However,<br />
if you believe that unauthorised use has been<br />
made of an image belonging to you please<br />
contact us on 01993 838 040.<br />
Visit our offices<br />
If you would like to discuss your<br />
travel arrangements in person we<br />
welcome personal visits, please call<br />
in advance to arrange an<br />
appointment with one or more of<br />
our country specialists. Our offices<br />
are at the New Mill, a 17th-century<br />
converted wool mill on the outskirts<br />
of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford,<br />
on the edge of the Cotswolds.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/visit-us<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Our website is packed with<br />
information, features and advice<br />
covering all our destinations across<br />
the globe. On the site you can browse by<br />
theme, special interest or region as well as<br />
viewing additional accommodation options<br />
and itineraries that are not featured in<br />
this brochure. You can download all our<br />
brochures online or contact us via the<br />
website where there is the option to tell<br />
us about your plans so that we can start<br />
tailoring your itinerary.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/africa ● 01993 838 500 ● Useful information 143
New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 500 • Fax: 01993 838 010<br />
Email: africa@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com<br />
This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forestry Stewardship Council, using vegetable inks.<br />
Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC environmental accreditations. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.