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A FRICA<br />

&<br />

T HE I NDIAN O CEAN<br />

NAMIBIA<br />

SOUTH AFRICA<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

MALAWI<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

TANZANIA<br />

KENYA<br />

UGANDA<br />

RWANDA<br />

MADAGASCAR<br />

SEYCHELLES<br />

MAURITIUS<br />

TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER


Dear <strong>Travel</strong>ler<br />

Africa is one of the earth’s most exciting<br />

continents, with some of the world’s greatest<br />

wildernesses, richest cultures and most<br />

awe-inspiring wildlife. Our Africa team<br />

and <strong>Audley</strong> travellers never tire of visiting,<br />

and it seems that the more people see, the<br />

more they want to see, for Africa represents<br />

a never-ending source of adventure.<br />

Keeping up with developments is always a<br />

challenge in Africa. Not only do camps and<br />

lodges change regularly, but game fluctuates<br />

in and out of areas depending on the rains<br />

and vegetation available.<br />

There have recently been a lot of exciting<br />

changes in Africa. Of particular note is<br />

the opening up of the eastern country of<br />

Mozambique as a safari destination.<br />

Zambia’s South Luangwa is becoming more<br />

accessible in the rains – a wonderful time to<br />

see nurseries of tottering impala, birds in<br />

bright breeding plumage and increased<br />

predator action. Namibia remains a<br />

spectacular self-drive destination and new<br />

camps along the Caprivi have made possible<br />

an excellent two week self-drive safari.<br />

Finally, many of the islands we feature in<br />

Tanzania, Mozambique and Madagascar<br />

are nesting sites for turtles. What better way<br />

to finish a trip to Africa than on a sandy<br />

beach littered with turtle tracks?<br />

Our Africa team is highly experienced and<br />

we travel to the reserves frequently, keeping<br />

abreast of not only the accommodation but<br />

also the game and birdlife in a particular<br />

region. Whether your interest lies in seeing<br />

leopard, wild dog or ring-tailed lemurs, we<br />

can suggest the best places to find them.<br />

Craig Burkinshaw<br />

Managing Director<br />

2


Introducing <strong>Audley</strong><br />

After developing a real passion for travel in the early 1990s Craig Burkinshaw founded<br />

<strong>Audley</strong>, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. Craig wanted to make it possible for<br />

others to share the same experiences and, from these small beginnings, the company was born.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> offers a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s<br />

interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity<br />

and a passion for travel. Today <strong>Audley</strong> is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour<br />

operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin<br />

America, Australasia, Antarctica and the Arctic, Canada and Alaska.<br />

Tailor-made journeys<br />

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip<br />

is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or<br />

luxurious accommodation, have great guides on<br />

hand or explore under your own steam, travel for<br />

one week or five, we can create a trip to match<br />

your tastes and budget. We can also design trips<br />

for a special occasion, where added touches can<br />

change an adventurous journey into a spectacular<br />

honeymoon, anniversary or birthday celebration.<br />

Your trip can be tailored to suit your particular<br />

interests, such as wildlife, photography or diving,<br />

and we have the specialist knowledge to match.<br />

Throughout the brochure you will find suggested<br />

itineraries and some of our favourite places to<br />

stay. These are included purely to offer inspiration<br />

and give you a flavour of what is possible, as each<br />

journey is created individually to give you the<br />

opportunity to experience a destination in<br />

exactly the way you choose.<br />

Specialist knowledge<br />

Our Africa and Indian Ocean specialists have all<br />

travelled extensively throughout the countries we<br />

feature and in many cases lived there, so you can<br />

rely on their extensive first-hand knowledge. They<br />

regularly return to see the accommodation, meet<br />

our guides – many of whom are firm friends –<br />

experience all the excursions and activities, and<br />

keep up-to-date with local developments. They<br />

pride themselves on having an honest ‘tell it how<br />

it is’ approach to planning your trip and, as well<br />

as their own extensive knowledge, are able to<br />

draw on the considerable collective experience<br />

of their colleagues. We believe this approach is<br />

unique to <strong>Audley</strong> and the only way we can<br />

genuinely offer you a tailor-made service.<br />

Financial security<br />

All travel arrangements in this brochure that<br />

include a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil<br />

Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817.<br />

Please see our booking conditions for more<br />

information. If your arrangements do not include<br />

any flights they are protected by a separate<br />

financial scheme, for further details please visit<br />

www.audleytravel.com/protect<br />

Planning your trip<br />

Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if<br />

you just want some general guidance, call one<br />

of our Africa and Indian Ocean specialists on<br />

01993 838 500. They can offer advice and discuss<br />

your plans with you, before creating a detailed<br />

itinerary, which will be forwarded to you together<br />

with maps, accommodation information, colour<br />

photographs and a price. Your specialist can then<br />

continue to refine the plans until you are<br />

completely satisfied. They will be on hand from<br />

the start of the planning process to your return<br />

and are always available to answer questions<br />

and offer sound advice.<br />

Contents<br />

Introduction 2-9<br />

Namibia 10-25<br />

South Africa 26-27<br />

Botswana 28-41<br />

Zambia 42-55<br />

Malawi 56-61<br />

Mozambique 62-71<br />

Tanzania 72-91<br />

Zanzibar 84-87<br />

Kenya 92-105<br />

Kenya’s beaches 102-104<br />

Uganda 106-107<br />

Gorilla tracking 108-109<br />

Rwanda 110-111<br />

Madagascar 112-127<br />

Madagascar’s beaches 122-126<br />

Seychelles 128-137<br />

Mauritius 138-142<br />

Useful information 143<br />

Introduction 3


Choosing where to go<br />

Choosing a trip in Africa can be confusing given the array of countries, lodges and camps<br />

on offer. Below you will find an overview of each country giving the highlights and<br />

types of safari and other experiences they offer the traveller. For further details, please browse<br />

the individual country sections of this brochure or call our Africa specialists.<br />

4<br />

Boat trip from Chiawa Camp, Zambia<br />

Viewing wild dog in Botswana<br />

Children in Malawi<br />

Namibia<br />

Namibia offers desert scenery as well as big game.<br />

The network of gravel roads is easy to navigate<br />

and most people drive themselves around. It is a<br />

good country for first-time visitors to Africa thanks<br />

to the variety of scenery, wildlife and activities to<br />

enjoy. Namibia is one of the least expensive<br />

African countries to visit and trips can be tailored<br />

to suit all budgets. See pages 10-25.<br />

South Africa<br />

South Africa is well-suited to first-time visitors to<br />

Africa, as well as families. The majority of visitors<br />

combine Cape Town with time in the Wine<br />

Regions, Garden Route and Kruger National Park.<br />

We have an extensive South Africa programme,<br />

covered in a separate brochure. For a copy<br />

please call our South Africa specialists on<br />

01993 838 550. See pages 26-27<br />

Botswana<br />

Botswana is often viewed as the ultimate safari<br />

destination. Wildlife here is some of the best on<br />

the continent and camps are small and exclusive.<br />

Many camps are set in private reserves and you<br />

will see few other vehicles on game drives.<br />

Botswana is famous for its Okavango Delta, a<br />

beautiful wetland area with colourful birds as well<br />

as big game. Botswana is one of the most<br />

expensive countries to visit in high season, but you<br />

certainly get what you pay for. See pages 28-41.<br />

Zambia<br />

Zambia is one of our favourite countries as the<br />

parks are wild and game concentrations good.<br />

The camps are small, many with only three or<br />

four rooms, and ingeniously constructed. It is the<br />

best place in Africa for walking safaris and night<br />

drives are rewarding for leopard sightings. It will<br />

not suit nervous travellers but is ideal for those<br />

looking for a wild safari. Zambia combines well<br />

with Lake Malawi, providing a safari and ‘beach’<br />

option. See pages 42-55.<br />

Malawi<br />

Malawi is a small country dominated by the<br />

glittering Lake Malawi, which can either be<br />

enjoyed as a ‘beach’ add-on to Zambia or as a<br />

destination in its own right. Visitors are normally<br />

driven around the country exploring the lake<br />

and Liwonde National Park and perhaps enjoying<br />

hiking in the mountains in Southern Malawi.<br />

See pages 56-61.<br />

Mozambique<br />

Mozambique has an idyllic coastline. There are<br />

two archipelagos, Bazaruto in the south and<br />

Quirimba in the north, both of which have a small<br />

number of boutique hotels. These can be added<br />

on to safaris in Namibia, Botswana and Zambia<br />

or used for a beach only stay. The two national<br />

parks of Niassa and Gorongosa would not be<br />

suited to people wanting to tick off big game but<br />

are ideal for experienced safari hands looking for<br />

a wilderness experience. See pages 62-71.<br />

Tanzania<br />

Tanzania has some of Africa’s most famous parks<br />

such as the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.<br />

It also has lesser-known reserves including the<br />

Selous and Ruaha which offer equally good game<br />

viewing. Due to its terrific wildlife densities and<br />

Indian Ocean islands such as Zanzibar and Mafia<br />

it makes an ideal safari and beach combination.<br />

We prefer to stay away from the busier areas<br />

and make use of quieter parks and islands.<br />

See pages 72-91.<br />

Ring tailed lemur, Madagascar


Kenya<br />

People often imagine minibuses and busy beaches<br />

when they think of Kenya. This is true in the<br />

eastern Mara and Mombasa, but outside these<br />

spots, the country offers large wilderness areas.<br />

The western side of the Mara is much quieter<br />

with excellent game densities and is ideal for<br />

first-time visitors to Africa. In the north of the<br />

country you can walk with Samburu tribesmen<br />

on the Laikipia Plateau. Time on safari is easily<br />

combined with the Kenyan coast or the island<br />

of Zanzibar. See pages 92-105.<br />

Uganda & Rwanda<br />

Uganda and Rwanda are famous for their<br />

mountain gorillas which you can track in the<br />

Virunga Mountains. Both countries are relatively<br />

small and a week in Rwanda and ten days in<br />

Uganda is normally sufficient to see the highlights.<br />

See pages 106-111.<br />

Madagascar<br />

Madagascar is unique and offers an experience<br />

that is quite unlike other African countries. The<br />

main attraction is the lemurs which are viewed<br />

on foot. Walking in Madagascar’s virgin rainforest,<br />

you see chameleons, frogs and all sorts of weird<br />

and wonderful insects, and the forest is easily<br />

combined with the beach. Hotels are not very<br />

luxurious on Madagascar so it will not suit<br />

everyone, but for those who love an adventure,<br />

we cannot recommend it highly enough.<br />

See pages 112-127.<br />

Seychelles<br />

The Seychelles are well-known as an idyllic set<br />

of islands and their picture-perfect beaches with<br />

white sand and palm trees do not disappoint.<br />

You can tailor an island-hopping holiday or<br />

visit as an add-on to a safari. There are a range<br />

of properties from simple guesthouses to<br />

luxury hotels so trips can be tailored to suit<br />

most budgets. See pages 128-137.<br />

Sossusvlei at sunrise<br />

Mauritius<br />

Mauritius is a large island ringed by sandy beaches.<br />

There are a number of hotels and guest houses<br />

on the island and it can be hard to know which<br />

to choose. We have selected a few properties on<br />

quiet stretches of beach as well as some in the<br />

mountains to create an original itinerary. Whilst<br />

service levels are high, prices are competitive and<br />

offer value for money. Mauritius is easy to<br />

combine with a safari in either Southern or<br />

Eastern Africa. See pages 138-142.<br />

01993 838 500 ● Introduction 5


Wildlife<br />

The focus of most trips to Africa is the wildlife. Whilst game is found across the<br />

continent, there are some specific areas that are particularly good for certain species.<br />

We have included a rough guide here to get you started on where to find some of Africa’s<br />

bigger game. Do call our specialists who can advise you in much greater depth.<br />

Red lechwe, Okavango Delta<br />

Tree climbing lion in Uganda<br />

Klipspringer, Namibia<br />

Lion<br />

Lion are usually not hard to find on any safari as<br />

they tend to enjoy lying around for large parts of<br />

the day. Of particular note are Kenya’s Masai<br />

Mara, where the stars of the Big Cat Diary series<br />

can be seen, and Botswana’s Duba Plains where<br />

you can watch lion stalking buffalo on an almost<br />

daily basis. We also always find the Ruaha in<br />

Tanzania rewarding for large prides.<br />

Leopard<br />

The best place for leopard is Zambia. Night drives<br />

have been operating in both the South Luangwa<br />

and Lower Zambezi National Parks for many<br />

years and the guides know a number of leopards<br />

and the places they tend to frequent. Other good<br />

areas for leopard include Tanzania’s Selous Game<br />

Reserve and the Masai Mara in Kenya.<br />

Cheetah<br />

With open plains and an arid environment,<br />

Namibia holds 40% of Africa’s cheetah<br />

population. They can be found in Etosha, or for<br />

a close-up experience you can visit the Africat<br />

Foundation based in Namibia’s Northern<br />

Highlands. Tanzania’s Serengeti Game Reserve is<br />

also well suited to cheetah.<br />

Elephant<br />

Elephant can be found in large numbers in most<br />

of the reserves we feature. Of special interest are<br />

the desert-adapted elephant which roam freely in<br />

Namibia’s Damaraland region – seeing them<br />

against a backdrop of dunes and gravel plains is<br />

spectacular. Chobe in Botswana is known for its<br />

huge population and hundreds come to the<br />

Chobe River to drink. Finally, the Ngorongoro<br />

Crater in Tanzania has some large bulls with<br />

impressive tusks.<br />

Buffalo<br />

Buffalo are at their most spectacular in large herds<br />

and Katavi National Park in Western Tanzania<br />

and Duba Plains in Botswana have probably the<br />

biggest concentrations. From June to October,<br />

Katavi’s herds number around 3,000, making for<br />

an impressive sight of snorting, dust and fluttering<br />

oxpeckers. Duba Plains has a herd of around<br />

1,000, hounded every day by lions, giving rise to<br />

spectacular photographic opportunities.<br />

Rhino<br />

Both black and white rhino have been heavily<br />

poached in Africa, but thanks to increased<br />

protection many are thriving. Black rhino can<br />

be found roaming freely in northwest Namibia<br />

and guests can track them on foot with Save<br />

The Rhino trackers. Namibia’s Etosha National<br />

Park also has good numbers of both black and<br />

white rhino.<br />

Mountain gorilla<br />

Mountain gorillas are found in the Virunga<br />

Mountains which straddle Rwanda and Uganda.<br />

On the Rwandan side the mountains are<br />

protected by the Volcanoes National Park and on<br />

the Ugandan side by the Mgahinga National Park.<br />

We feel that gorilla tracking is best from the<br />

Rwandan side as there are a greater number of<br />

gorilla groups and walks are shorter.<br />

6<br />

Mountain gorilla


Young elephant<br />

Chimpanzee<br />

Chimpanzees can be found in the Mahale<br />

Mountains in Western Tanzania and Kibale<br />

Forest in Uganda. In both places they are<br />

tracked on foot.<br />

Lemurs<br />

Lemurs are endemic to Madagascar and once<br />

you are in the country’s national parks, they are<br />

not hard to find. There are a number of both<br />

diurnal and nocturnal species which can be seen<br />

on day and night walks. Lemurs can often be<br />

observed from close quarters as they are<br />

naturally curious animals.<br />

Whales<br />

Humpback whales can be seen migrating up<br />

Africa’s east coast from June to early September.<br />

They are particularly easily seen on boat trips<br />

from Ile Ste Marie in Madagascar and the<br />

Quirimba Archipelago in Mozambique.<br />

Mongoose<br />

Responsible travel<br />

We’re passionate about travel but also<br />

deeply aware of the responsibility we have<br />

to the people and places we visit. We believe<br />

that a visit from an <strong>Audley</strong> traveller should<br />

have a positive impact on the destination<br />

and, wherever possible, bring real benefits.<br />

We always endeavour to use locally owned<br />

hotels, work with local guides and operators,<br />

and promote community and wildlife projects.<br />

Our <strong>Travel</strong>ler’s Code offers tips and advice<br />

you can use to ensure your trip does not<br />

threaten the sustainability of the places you<br />

visit. We carbon offset all our staff flights and<br />

you can choose to do the same, please speak<br />

to your specialist about this or follow the link<br />

on our website www.audleytravel.com/offset.<br />

Our commitment to responsible travel has<br />

been audited by AITO (Association of<br />

Independent Tour Operators) and we have<br />

Spotted hyena<br />

been awarded five stars, the maximum<br />

achievable. We also support a variety of<br />

social and environmental charities and<br />

projects around the world. Our Africa safari<br />

team has funded a water pump for Aitong<br />

Village in Kenya, supports a tree-planting<br />

project in Zambia’s Luangwa Valley and<br />

sponsors two elephants in the Daphne<br />

Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage. In addition<br />

to this we funded the building of a bio-gas<br />

until, which turns manure into cooking fuel<br />

for a village on the outskirts of the Masai<br />

Mara, eliminating the need for villagers to<br />

venture into the bush to collect firewood,<br />

where predators are present, and also<br />

helping to prevent deforestation. Should<br />

you wish to visit one of these projects<br />

during your trip, please speak to one of<br />

our Africa specialists.<br />

Cheetah in Botswana<br />

01993 838 500 ● Wildlife 7


Choosing a Safari<br />

A special family meal at Kapani Lodge<br />

The majority of visitors to Africa will want to experience a typical wildlife safari on<br />

which you enjoy seeing lots of big game as well as Africa’s smaller mammals and birds.<br />

Game viewing can be enjoyed from open vehicles, in boats, canoes, on foot or even from hot<br />

air balloons. Exploring the bush in a variety of ways allows you to focus on different elements<br />

– walking safaris are good for examining tracks and listening to bird calls; game drives for<br />

approaching elephant, lion and buffalo from close quarters; and boats are best for hippo,<br />

crocodile and waterbirds. Whatever your interest, be it a particular animal or bird or a way<br />

of exploring, we can suggest the right parks and activities. As well as typical wildlife safaris,<br />

here is a flavour of some of the more specialist safaris we can arrange.<br />

The Luangwa House, Zambia<br />

Learning about meerkats in Botswana<br />

Safari & beach combinations<br />

Combining a safari with some relaxation on the<br />

beach is very popular. This could not be easier in<br />

Africa, as many game reserves are just a short<br />

flight from the coast. Tanzania’s Selous Game<br />

Reserve is a short light aircraft flight from<br />

Zanzibar, making it possible to enjoy a morning<br />

game drive followed by lunch on the island. Kenya<br />

has an idyllic coastline just a few hours’ journey<br />

from the Mara, or if you want to go further afield<br />

it is easy to combine Kenya with the Seychelles.<br />

In Southern Africa, Zambia’s South Luangwa Park<br />

is a morning’s journey from Lake Malawi so this<br />

makes an ideal combination. Namibia and<br />

Botswana combine well with Mauritius and<br />

Mozambique, however due to flight times a night<br />

en route in Johannesburg is required. Finally, many<br />

of Madagascar’s reserves stretch right down to<br />

the beach, so it is possible to enjoy a hike in the<br />

forest followed by a swim in the sea. It doesn’t<br />

get much better than kicking off your hiking<br />

boots on the sand and running into the Indian<br />

Ocean to cool off.<br />

Family safaris<br />

If you think your children would like to learn to<br />

track game, pick mangos from a wild mango tree<br />

or bake crocodile cakes in the kitchen with a<br />

friendly chef, then a family safari might be just the<br />

answer. In recent years many camps have built<br />

special family tents and houses in order to<br />

accommodate every member of the family<br />

comfortably. Activities can be enjoyed in private<br />

vehicles, or parents and children can head off in<br />

separate directions under the watchful eyes of<br />

professional guides. Dining can be early or late,<br />

together or apart, in the house or on a sandbank<br />

in the middle of the river. There are swimming<br />

pools to enjoy, wildlife certificates to be achieved<br />

and relaxation for parents. Speak to our Africa<br />

specialists who have visited all the family houses<br />

and can discuss the options with you.<br />

Honeymoons<br />

Africa has a number of fabulous places to explore<br />

on honeymoon. You can sleep out under the<br />

African night sky on a star-bed in Northern<br />

Kenya, enjoy a bush-breakfast on a sandbank in<br />

the heart of the Okavango Delta or simply<br />

snooze on the deep-cushioned sofas of your<br />

private villa in Mozambique. Our country<br />

specialists have travelled all over Africa to find<br />

the best places for a honeymoon and will give<br />

you lots of ideas and suggestions. We offer a<br />

specialised service for those who would like to<br />

have their honeymoon as a wedding list, and<br />

wedding guests can contribute via our website<br />

or by telephone.<br />

8<br />

Snorkelling at Nkwichi Lodge, Mozambique


Walking in the South Luangwa National Park<br />

Walking safaris<br />

A wonderful way to explore Africa’s wildlife is on<br />

foot. Walking safaris can vary from gentle morning<br />

rambles to two or three day hikes. They were<br />

pioneered in Zambia in the 1960s and this is still<br />

one of the best countries for walking. Small<br />

groups are escorted by guides and scouts and<br />

explore areas with no roads. On a typical<br />

morning walk you might track elephant, listen to<br />

birds, or have a picnic above a lagoon full of<br />

hippo. Madagascar is another excellent place for<br />

keen walkers as all of the activities are done on<br />

foot here. Walks explore virgin rainforest, alive<br />

with lemurs, chameleons, frogs and geckos.<br />

Finally, for walks in dramatic desert scenery,<br />

Namibia is the place to go. You can climb sand<br />

dunes at Sossusvlei, scramble up rocky hillsides in<br />

the Naukluft Mountains and track black rhino<br />

across desert plains in Damaraland.<br />

Photographing elephant in the Luangwa Valley<br />

Lovebird<br />

Photographic safaris<br />

With its dramatic landscapes, exciting wildlife<br />

and beautiful sunrises and sunsets, Africa is a<br />

photographer’s dream. Whilst the whole<br />

continent offers superb opportunities, Zambia is<br />

one of the best places for the keen photographer.<br />

In the South Luangwa there are several camps<br />

that have specialist guides and hides above busy<br />

waterholes. There are also a number of guided<br />

photographic safaris each year, lead by<br />

professional photographers.<br />

Birdwatching<br />

There are thousands of bird species in Africa of<br />

every shape and size, from secretary birds to<br />

hammerkops and saddle billed storks to pygmy<br />

kingfishers. In Southern Africa, keen ornithologists<br />

will enjoy the Green Season (November to<br />

March) when birds are in bright breeding plumage<br />

and courtship displays are common. Also worthy<br />

of note is June in Zambia’s South Luangwa when<br />

large parties of spoonbills, yellow-billed storks,<br />

saddle billed storks and fish eagles gather into<br />

‘fishing parties’ to scoop fish out of drying lagoons.<br />

October sees the arrival of beautiful carmine<br />

bee-eaters which nest in Botswana’s Kwando and<br />

Zambia’s Luangwa riverbanks. East Africa is no less<br />

spectacular with the Selous river and lake system<br />

home to a myriad of brightly coloured waterbirds<br />

all year round. Of particular note is Lake Nakuru<br />

in Kenya which is home to more than a million<br />

flamingos at certain times of year. Finally, in the<br />

southeast trade wind (May to October) around<br />

800,000 pairs of sooty terns arrive to nest on<br />

Bird Island in the Seychelles. This is just a<br />

fraction of what Africa has to offer the keen<br />

ornithologist – please speak to our specialists<br />

for further details of specialist birding safaris.<br />

Yellow-billed stork fishing<br />

01993 838 500 ● Safaris 9


Namibia<br />

Namibia is a country of vast blue skies<br />

and endless horizons. It contains one of<br />

the world’s oldest deserts, its highest dunes<br />

and its second largest canyon. In the north of<br />

the country, Etosha’s silvery salt pan and<br />

surrounding plains teem with game.<br />

Damaraland’s desert-adapted elephant and<br />

black rhino roam freely and can be tracked<br />

on foot or in open vehicles. Flying along the<br />

Skeleton Coast, you will find hundredthousand<br />

strong seal colonies, skeletal<br />

shipwrecks and flocks of pelicans and<br />

flamingos. Some of the most spectacular<br />

scenery is found in the south. Climbing a<br />

dune at Sossuslvei at sunrise, it is easy to see<br />

why Namibia is a photographer’s dream.<br />

The dunes are enchanting, totally unspoilt,<br />

and best of all you have them to yourself.<br />

Whilst Namibia’s scenery is some of the most<br />

dramatic in Africa getting around the<br />

country could not be easier as there is an<br />

excellent network of gravel roads. Set off at<br />

dawn and spot gemsbok and kudu from your<br />

car, stop for a snack under an acacia tree<br />

and arrive at your destination by lunchtime.<br />

With virtually no traffic and spectacular<br />

scenery this is a wonderful way to explore.<br />

10


<strong>Audley</strong> in Namibia<br />

7 8<br />

5<br />

6<br />

4<br />

1<br />

9<br />

2<br />

3<br />

10<br />

Namibia is an easy country to explore with<br />

well maintained roads, a variety of<br />

comfortable properties and good food. A<br />

good way to get around is on a self-drive trip<br />

with a reliable car, clear set of directions and<br />

a map. Traffic is light and you can always pull<br />

over to enjoy the view. We have driven<br />

around Namibia many times and know the<br />

roads and lodges well from first-hand<br />

experience. As distances are large, it is crucial<br />

to plan a trip carefully so that you spend only<br />

a part of your time driving and the majority<br />

of it enjoying what the country has to offer. If<br />

you don’t want to drive, you can fly by light<br />

aircraft or be driven from lodge to lodge.<br />

Both are good options and suit different<br />

travellers and budgets. Namibia works well as<br />

a stand-alone destination, however it can be<br />

combined easily with Cape Town or the<br />

Okavango Delta in Botswana. If you would<br />

like to end your trip on a tropical beach, we<br />

recommend Mozambique or Mauritius.<br />

Accommodation<br />

1 Sossusvlei<br />

The world’s highest sand<br />

dunes and a place of<br />

spectacular beauty.<br />

2 NamibRand<br />

Nature Reserve<br />

One of Africa’s largest private<br />

reserves encompassing plains,<br />

vegetated dunes and the<br />

Numib Mountains.<br />

3 Fish River Canyon<br />

The world’s second largest<br />

canyon and a good place<br />

for hiking.<br />

4 Lüderitz<br />

A colonial town in the south,<br />

close to the deserted<br />

diamond mining settlements of<br />

Kolmanskop and Elizabeth Bay.<br />

Picnic at the Skeleton Coast<br />

Lion in Etosha<br />

5 Swakopmund<br />

7 The Skeleton Coast<br />

A quaint German colonial<br />

town where the desert meets<br />

the Atlantic.<br />

With desolate beaches,<br />

mountains and canyons this area<br />

is home to seals, jackals, giraffe<br />

6 Pelican Point<br />

and desert-adapted elephant.<br />

A sandy peninsula with a colony<br />

of around 300 Cape fur seals,<br />

accessible by kayak.<br />

8 Damaraland<br />

The place to track desertadapted<br />

elephant and rhino<br />

and home to some of Africa’s<br />

finest rock art.<br />

9 Etosha National Park<br />

Namibia’s key wildlife area,<br />

centred around the shimmering<br />

Etosha salt pan.<br />

10 Caprivi Strip<br />

Fringing the Okavango Delta,<br />

this region has rivers,<br />

waterways and swamps as<br />

well as prolific elephant,<br />

buffalo, hippo and crocodile.<br />

Namibia has probably the widest choice of<br />

accommodation in Southern Africa. In the<br />

towns there are hotels, boutique properties<br />

and guesthouses. Out of town you will<br />

find remote tented camps, lodges and<br />

farmhouses. One of our favourite properties,<br />

Wolwedans Dune Lodge, is built on top of<br />

a sand dune. On any itinerary we would<br />

recommend that you stay in a mixture of<br />

properties to make your trip varied and<br />

interesting. Staying at an owner-run guestfarm<br />

gives a fascinating insight into farming<br />

in Namibia whilst tented camps allow you<br />

to explore remote areas. If you are a keen<br />

walker we can recommend trails where you<br />

stay in dome tents or camp beds under the<br />

stars. Simply let us know the sort of<br />

accommodation you like and we will make<br />

suggestions to suit you.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Namibia, please<br />

see pages 24-25.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Namibia<br />

specialists 01993 838 525<br />

Namibia 11


Dead Vlei<br />

Sossusvlei & Sesriem<br />

In southern Namibia at Sesriem, the Tsauchab<br />

River has carved a wide path into the dunes<br />

towards the coast. The river never reaches the<br />

sea as its path is blocked by mountains of sand.<br />

Instead it spreads into pans, surrounded by<br />

curving dunes. This area is known as Sossusvlei;<br />

the towering dunes are apricot at sunrise, crimson<br />

at sunset and all colours of the spectrum in<br />

between. Near Sossusvlei are other ‘vleis’ (valleys<br />

or pans) – Dead Vlei with a silver floor and<br />

skeletal trees and Hidden Vlei with dusty acacias.<br />

It’s superb for photography and a place of<br />

spectacular beauty. Many think deserts are lifeless,<br />

but walk amongst the dunes and you will soon<br />

see the tracks of tok tokkie beetles criss-crossing<br />

the sand, shovel-snouted lizards darting into nara<br />

bushes and perhaps even the spoor of a wildcat.<br />

We recommend arriving at Sossusvlei early in<br />

the morning so that you can climb one of the<br />

hundreds of dunes and watch as the colour of<br />

the sunrise is blazed onto the magical landscape.<br />

Desert Homestead<br />

12<br />

Sossus Dune Lodge<br />

SOSSUS DUNE LODGE,<br />

SOSSUSVLEI<br />

Sossus Dune Lodge is situated within the<br />

Namib Naukluft Park close to Sossusvlei. The<br />

lodge comprises 25 thatched chalets. Each is<br />

canvas sided, with wood floors and large glass<br />

windows to make the most of the views of the<br />

dunes. As the lodge is within the park, guests can<br />

reach Sossusvlei before sunrise and stay after<br />

sunset giving the opportunity to experience the<br />

dunes with few other people.<br />

DESERT HOMESTEAD, SOSSUSVLEI<br />

The Desert Homestead is a pretty lodge on a<br />

grassy plain in the shadow of the Tsaris and<br />

Naukluft Mountains. There are 20 stone and<br />

thatch cottages, a cosy living area with comfortable<br />

leather sofas, soft African fabrics and a cool, shady<br />

dining veranda where farmhouse cooking is served.<br />

As well as trips to Sossusvlei it is possible to go<br />

horse riding or camping for a night.<br />

LITTLE KULALA, KULALA<br />

WILDERNESS RESERVE<br />

Little Kulala is located in the dry Auab river bed<br />

on the Kulala Wilderness Reserve, a 35-minute<br />

4x4 trip from Sossusvlei. Sandy paths lead<br />

through skeletal trees to eight luxurious and<br />

spacious chalets, each decorated in a desert style<br />

with clay pots full of dune grass and outdoor<br />

showers in twisted trees. There is a plunge pool<br />

for the heat of the day and a star-gazing platform<br />

on the roof. Views of the dunes shimmering in<br />

the distance can be enjoyed from everywhere.<br />

Little Kulala<br />

Barking gecko


Wolwedans Dune Camp Wolwedans Dune Lodge Sossussvlei Mountain Lodge<br />

Sunrise in the NamibRand Nature Reserve<br />

The NamibRand<br />

Nature Reserve<br />

The NamibRand Nature Reserve lies to the south<br />

of Sesriem and borders the Namib Naukluft Park.<br />

Covering over 2,000 square kilometres, it is one<br />

of Africa’s largest private reserves and is certainly<br />

one of its most beautiful. A place of contrast, it<br />

encompasses vegetated dunes, yellow plains and<br />

the Numib Mountains where Hartmann’s<br />

mountain zebra can be found. The NamibRand<br />

has some of Namibia’s best guides and is<br />

therefore a good place in which to learn about<br />

the flora, fauna and history of the desert. We<br />

recommend the full-day drives, on which you<br />

explore many parts of the reserve and have a<br />

large picnic lunch. On your return to camp at<br />

night you’ll find the lanterns lit, the fire roaring<br />

and a delicious dinner prepared.<br />

WOLWEDANS DUNE LODGE,<br />

NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE<br />

Wolwedans Dune Lodge has six chalets which<br />

are built on top of a vegetated sand dune. All of<br />

them are open on one side allowing you to<br />

watch the sunrise from your bed. The lapa has<br />

leather sofas and chairs, a library and a cellar<br />

built deep into the sand. There is also a small<br />

pool set back in the dunes. As with all the<br />

Wolwedans properties, the food is excellent<br />

and the camp guides some of the most<br />

knowledgeable in Namibia.<br />

SOSSUSVLEI MOUNTAIN LODGE,<br />

NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE<br />

This lodge has ten suites, built into natural rock<br />

at the foot of a mountain, each one looking onto<br />

an expansive plain leading to a dune sea. Raised<br />

bedrooms with skylights overhead enable guests<br />

to gaze at the stars from their bed, and steps lead<br />

down from the bedroom to a lounge. Activities<br />

from the lodge include drives and walks in the<br />

reserve as well as excursions to Sossusvlei. At<br />

the end of the day the night sky can be viewed<br />

through the lodge’s high-powered telescope.<br />

WOLWEDANS DUNE CAMP,<br />

NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE<br />

This beautiful tented camp is built on a dune and<br />

has spectacular views of the plains and mountains.<br />

The six tents are simple but stylish with rush mats,<br />

comfortable beds, tables and private bathrooms.<br />

The main lapa (dining area and lounge) is open<br />

on one side with far reaching views. The food<br />

is excellent and the camp staff warm and<br />

welcoming. Wolwedans has some of Namibia’s<br />

best guides and they will lead you on half and<br />

full day excursions to explore the reserve.<br />

Hartebeest in the NamibRand Nature Reserve<br />

www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 13


Gemsbok in the Naukluft Mountains<br />

The Naukluft Mountains<br />

The Naukluft Mountains are about an hour’s drive<br />

to the northeast of Sossusvlei and make an ideal<br />

stop on the way to or from the dunes. This is<br />

superb walking country with rocky outcrops, deep<br />

river valleys with wild olive trees, sycamore figs<br />

and freshwater springs where you can swim when<br />

the weather is hot. There are lots of wild animals<br />

including baboon, steenbok, kudu, Hartmann’s<br />

mountain zebra and klipspringer. Leopard are<br />

present but rarely seen. Over 200 bird species<br />

have been recorded and the Naukluft is the<br />

southernmost limit of many species of the<br />

northern Namib, including Ruppell’s parrot and<br />

the pretty rosy-faced lovebirds. The air is crystal<br />

clear, you won’t meet another person all day,<br />

and sunsets over the mountains are spectacular.<br />

Zebra River Lodge<br />

Walking in the Naukluft<br />

ZEBRA RIVER LODGE,<br />

NAUKLUFT MOUNTAINS<br />

This small stone lodge – a converted farm – is<br />

set high up in the mountains. There are just nine<br />

rooms, some of which lead off a wide veranda<br />

covered in flowers. Inside, the rooms are large<br />

and have cool stone floors, large beds with<br />

African print covers and en suite bathrooms. The<br />

main building houses a cosy dining room where<br />

dinner is served. Activities include nature drives,<br />

sundowner excursions and visits to the local<br />

natural springs. There are also several walking<br />

trails which can be explored at your own pace.<br />

Corona Guestfarm<br />

14<br />

CORONA GUESTFARM,<br />

NAUKLUFT MOUNTAINS<br />

Corona Guestfarm is surrounded by mountains<br />

in a remote wilderness area. Driving to the farm,<br />

you pass a number of dry river beds where kudu<br />

and springbok are often found. Accommodation<br />

consists of ten en suite rooms and four safari<br />

style tents, all individually decorated. Apart from<br />

relaxing by the swimming pool or under the<br />

jacaranda trees, there are a number of optional<br />

activities including game drives, horse riding and<br />

self guided walks, one of which visits some<br />

interesting rock art.<br />

The Naukluft Mountains


Kolmaskop, ghost town in the desert<br />

Fish River Lodge Houses in Lüderitz Klein Aus Vista<br />

Fish River Canyon<br />

In the far south of the country, the Fish River<br />

Canyon, second only to the Grand Canyon in<br />

size, is spectacular and deserted. At its base, the<br />

Fish River twists and turns, its clear water<br />

tumbling over rocks. We recommend taking an<br />

early morning ramble along the canyon where the<br />

bark of baboons echoes around the rocks and<br />

klipspringers dart up gullies. The view from the<br />

top is breathtaking and there are no shops or<br />

kiosks here, just a bench in the shade. On a busy<br />

day you may meet someone else, but the chance<br />

of finding a rock to sit on and of having the view<br />

to yourself is high.<br />

Lüderitz<br />

On the coast, the town of Lüderitz is fascinating,<br />

a real outpost with turn of the century<br />

architecture and the ghost towns of the diamond<br />

boom nearby, preserved by the sands of the<br />

desert. There’s also the penguin colony at Halifax<br />

Island to visit and we recommend walking with<br />

the flamingos on the beaches south of Lüderitz.<br />

There, you will find shells and ghost crabs and<br />

are unlikely to see another soul.<br />

KLEIN AUS VISTA, AUS<br />

An hour outside Lüderitz, the little Klein Aus Vista<br />

guesthouse has a wonderful location. Small rock<br />

chalets are tucked away amongst granite boulders<br />

with views of the desert. As well as trips to<br />

Lüderitz, guests can explore the gentle hiking<br />

trails, climb the extinct volcanic mountain or<br />

search for the wild Namib feral horses, present in<br />

this area for seven generations. With welcoming<br />

hosts and plentiful food, this is a tranquil and<br />

comfortable place to stay.<br />

FISH RIVER LODGE, FISH<br />

RIVER CANYON<br />

Fish River Lodge has a stunning situation on the<br />

lip of the Canyon with far reaching views. The<br />

20 contemporary stone chalets are stylishly<br />

decorated inside; stepping outside, you are<br />

immediately in the desert, an area of gravel plains<br />

dotted with quivertrees. This lodge is the only<br />

one in the area that offers guided hikes in the<br />

Canyon. After a morning walk, return to the pool<br />

to cool off before enjoying a big lunch on the<br />

shady veranda.<br />

Fish River Canyon<br />

www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 15


Kayaking at Pelican Point<br />

Swakopmund<br />

The old town of Swakopmund perches between<br />

the sands of the Namib Desert and the waves of<br />

the Atlantic Ocean. With misty morning fog, its<br />

climate is a contrast to the inland areas and<br />

refreshing after days in the south. The streets are<br />

wide and lined with palm trees, the buildings<br />

fascinating examples of old German architecture.<br />

There’s an array of curio and antique shops as well<br />

as some particularly good seafood restaurants<br />

serving fresh crayfish and Skeleton Coast mussels.<br />

A couple of hours’ drive north of Swakopmund<br />

you will find the seal colony at Cape Cross, home<br />

to around 200,000 Cape fur seals. South of<br />

Swakopmund – and equally worth a day’s trip – is<br />

Walvis Bay. Pelicans sweep over the dunes to the<br />

sea, whilst hundreds of flamingos, avocets and<br />

other waders can be found in the water.<br />

Pelican Point<br />

One excellent way to spend a morning is on a<br />

gentle kayaking trip around Pelican Point. Run<br />

by Jean Meintjies, these trips start early in the<br />

morning when she drives you out to Pelican<br />

Point, a sandbar near Walvis Bay. Jean has a<br />

number of sturdy sea kayaks and she guides you<br />

to three colonies of up to 300 Cape fur seals<br />

each. The seals love to swim around the kayaks<br />

and sometimes even jump over them! It is<br />

possible to see dolphins, and flocks of gulls and<br />

cormorants are often overhead. There is a<br />

stop on a beach for warm rolls and coffee for<br />

elevenses. No previous kayaking experience<br />

is needed.<br />

SWAKOPMUND GUESTHOUSE,<br />

SWAKOPMUND<br />

This upmarket guesthouse is located in the heart<br />

of Swakopmund, only five minutes’ walk from the<br />

main shopping streets and beach. There are<br />

plenty of quiet areas in the garden and the main<br />

house in which to relax and read a book. The<br />

twelve rooms have been individually furnished<br />

with crisp linens, large canvas wall art and en suite<br />

bathrooms decorated with beach pebbles to<br />

add a little character. The Borgs can help you to<br />

arrange excursions as well as giving you ideas for<br />

exploring at your own pace.<br />

Swakopmund Guesthouse<br />

CORNERSTONE GUESTHOUSE,<br />

SWAKOPMUND<br />

This small and friendly guesthouse occupies a<br />

quiet corner of the old town near the marine<br />

museum and the old brewery. It is a few minutes’<br />

walk to the Atlantic Ocean and The Tug, one of<br />

Swakopmund’s best restaurants. There are five en<br />

suite rooms and an airy breakfast room where a<br />

choice of fresh fruit, juices, yoghurts and eggs and<br />

bacon is served. On warm days, breakfast can be<br />

enjoyed on the sunny veranda.<br />

Pelicans at Walvis Bay<br />

16<br />

Cornerstone Guesthouse


Exploring the Great Dune Sea in the Northern Skeleton Coast<br />

Skeleton Coast Safaris<br />

Himba girls<br />

The Skeleton Coast<br />

North of Swakopmund the Skeleton Coast<br />

National Park stretches up to the Kunene River.<br />

It is a barren area and particularly aptly named.<br />

Strong currents, treacherous fog and shifting<br />

underwater sandbanks ensured that many early<br />

explorers’ ships were wrecked here, their<br />

remains still visible many metres from the shore.<br />

The landscape of the Skeleton Coast, whilst stark,<br />

is stunning and rock formations such as the Ugab<br />

Formations defy belief. There are clay castles at<br />

the Hoarusib Canyon, dunes that roar and<br />

reverberate, and gravel plains covered with<br />

ancient welwitschia plants. Dry river valleys are<br />

home to desert-adapted elephant, giraffe and<br />

brown hyena. The majority of the park is not<br />

accessible to vehicles, but there are two<br />

companies that operate fly-in safaris to the area.<br />

Lasting three to four days, these are regarded by<br />

experienced safari-goers as some of the best<br />

trips in Africa.<br />

Started in the sixties by Louw Schoeman and<br />

now run by his family, Skeleton Coast Safaris<br />

run three night flying safaris to the Skeleton<br />

Coast. The Schoeman brothers do most of<br />

the guiding, and it is hard to find better<br />

guides anywhere. Using light aircraft, trusty<br />

Land Rovers and your own two feet, you will<br />

explore the Skeleton Coast’s fragile<br />

ecosystem. There’s the chance to slide down<br />

roaring dunes, explore ancient bushman<br />

settlements and walk along inaccessible<br />

beaches past the skeletal remains of longwrecked<br />

ships. Each night you will stay in a<br />

different camp, of which there are three. All<br />

are tiny, but though this safari is not about<br />

Serra Cafema<br />

Flying over the Skeleton Coast<br />

accommodation, your comfort is never<br />

compromised. More often than not you will<br />

dine under a tree, hot bucket showers will<br />

be filled for you and there will be a roaring<br />

camp fire in the evening.<br />

SERRA CAFEMA, SKELETON COAST<br />

Serra Cafema is a beautiful camp situated under<br />

large albida trees on the banks of the Kunene<br />

River. The camp is in a wild area frequented by<br />

gemsbok, ostrich, desert-adapted elephant and<br />

nomadic prides of lion. Time is spent exploring<br />

the beautiful Hartmann Valley in 4x4s, the Great<br />

Dune Sea on quad-bikes and the mountains on<br />

foot. Boat trips on the Kunene River are relaxing<br />

as you float along watching birds overhead and<br />

large crocodiles basking on sandbanks.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 17


Rhino tracking in Northern Damaraland<br />

Damaraland<br />

Damaraland has a wild and rugged landscape<br />

and is one of Namibia’s least populated areas.<br />

Southern Damaraland’s great attractions include<br />

the Gross Spitzkoppe and Brandberg Mountain,<br />

both home to a wealth of rock art. Twfelfontein<br />

has hundreds of engravings (mostly depicting<br />

animals) and is perfect for a few hours’<br />

exploration. Driving to and from these you will<br />

often encounter donkey carts and tiny roadside<br />

stalls that sell gemstones and seed pod mobiles.<br />

In Northern Damaraland there are thriving<br />

populations of wild game including gemsbok,<br />

kudu, springbok, Hartmann’s zebra, desertadapted<br />

elephant and black rhino. Here, tracts<br />

of land have been designated ‘concession areas’.<br />

These areas are huge, dotted only with the<br />

Dinner at Desert Rhino Camp<br />

occasional village and visitors are strictly limited.<br />

Operators work in conjunction with the local<br />

communities, creating camps with local guides<br />

and giving a proportion of all income straight to<br />

the community. They are excellent initiatives and<br />

give you the opportunity to explore the area<br />

with those who know it best.<br />

DESERT RHINO CAMP, NORTHERN<br />

DAMARALAND<br />

Desert Rhino Camp is situated in the impressive<br />

Palmwag Concession, an area of flat-topped<br />

mountains, huge yellow plains and wild river<br />

valleys. Save the Rhino Trust are monitoring a<br />

population of black rhino here, and guests at<br />

Rhino Camp are able to go out and help with<br />

their research work. Lion frequent the Agab<br />

riverbed (and are often heard roaring at night),<br />

mountain zebra are numerous and vultures seem<br />

to roost in every tree. The camp itself is<br />

comfortable, with six large en suite tents and<br />

good food that tastes even better<br />

Doro Nawas<br />

18<br />

DORO NAWAS, SOUTHERN<br />

DAMARALAND<br />

Doro Nawas is built on a small kopje on the edge<br />

of the dry Aba-Huab River. From camp you can<br />

see the Etendeka Mountains to the north and the<br />

red cliffs of Twyfelfontein to the south. There are<br />

16 beautiful rooms with polished stone floors,<br />

large windows and en suite bathrooms. Outside,<br />

shady terraces with deep squishy chairs allow you<br />

to relax and enjoy the views.<br />

Shovel snouted lizard


Khoraan<br />

Desert adapted elephant in Northern Damaraland<br />

Camp Kipwe<br />

Damaraland road<br />

CAMP KIPWE, SOUTHERN<br />

DAMARALAND<br />

Camp Kipwe is located in a superb position in<br />

Damaraland with panoramic views over rocky<br />

kopjes, valleys and hills. The eight rooms are<br />

situated amongst the boulders giving you total<br />

privacy but you will also have plenty of<br />

opportunity to meet your fellow guests in the<br />

camp lounge area. For a spectacular sunset, make<br />

your way up the 100 steps to the sundowner<br />

view point – having a cold beer or glass of wine<br />

and watching the sun set over Damaraland is an<br />

experience not to be missed.<br />

MOWANI MOUNTAIN CAMP,<br />

SOUTHERN DAMARALAND<br />

Mowani Mountain Camp is stylish and<br />

comfortable. There are 12 safari tents that have<br />

been built unobtrusively to ensure minimum<br />

impact on the natural environment. Inside,<br />

tents have double beds, soft cream fabrics,<br />

whitewashed floors and stylish bathrooms. All the<br />

tents face east so you can see the sunrise from<br />

your bed. The main lodge has a pool carved out<br />

of the rock and a sundowner bar on top of the<br />

kopje with sweeping views. Just an hour from<br />

Twyfelfontein and with plenty of guides, it’s a<br />

luxurious base from which to explore.<br />

Mowani Mountain Camp<br />

ETENDEKA CAMP, ETENDEKA<br />

CONCESSION, NORTHERN<br />

DAMARALAND<br />

Lying on the open Etendeka lava plains, Etendeka<br />

Camp is small, simple and set in dramatic scenery.<br />

Owned by Dennis Leibenberg – who pioneered<br />

community involvement in tourism initiatives –<br />

this is a thriving camp whose excellent guides<br />

know all the birds, plants and insects as well as<br />

the mammals. Days often consist of nature walks,<br />

afternoon drives and perhaps a short trip up to<br />

a mountain top to enjoy a sundowner.<br />

Giraffe in Northern Damaraland<br />

www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 19


Self-driving in Namibia<br />

Road in Southern Namibia<br />

A self-drive trip is a wonderful way to explore<br />

Namibia as the roads are well maintained, they<br />

wind through spectacular scenery, and there is<br />

little traffic. You can explore entirely at your<br />

own pace and drive to the camps and lodges<br />

we have prearranged for you.<br />

Namibia’s roads<br />

Namibia’s main roads have tar surfaces. These<br />

include the roads from Windhoek to South<br />

Africa, Swakopmund and north to Etosha and<br />

the Caprivi. The rest of the network is gravel.<br />

The gravel roads are well graded and generally<br />

in good condition in the dry season. In the rainy<br />

season, however, rivers can occasionally flood<br />

across the road. All the gravel roads are well<br />

signposted and as there are only a few roads<br />

to choose from, it is very hard to get lost.<br />

As you drive along, you will find a number of<br />

designated picnic spots. These have an area to<br />

park, picnic table and benches – set in the<br />

shade of large trees where possible. As there<br />

is very little traffic, however, you will find that<br />

you can always stop at the side of the road<br />

whenever you wish, to enjoy the view or to<br />

take a picture.<br />

Driving distances and times<br />

Distances are large in Namibia and we<br />

recommend you set off early in the morning and<br />

drive at a leisurely pace, enjoying the journey as<br />

you go. By leaving early you can enjoy the first<br />

part of your drive in the cool of the day, and we<br />

have often seen animals on or beside the road<br />

at this time. You can aim to arrive at your next<br />

lodge in time for lunch and then have the<br />

afternoon either to relax, explore at your own<br />

pace or join a guided activity. We will give you a<br />

guide to distances and times with your itinerary<br />

so you can plan your days accordingly.<br />

Cars<br />

It is possible to drive around the country in an<br />

ordinary car however we usually recommend a<br />

4x4. We will discuss with you what type of car<br />

you’d like, taking into account the number of<br />

people in your party, how much luggage you<br />

have and the route you are taking. In the rainy<br />

season we would always recommend a 4x4.<br />

Etosha<br />

Self-driving is a great way to see Etosha’s big<br />

game as you can decide which waterholes you<br />

want to head for and can spend as long as<br />

you like viewing the wildlife. The speed limit is<br />

60 kilometres per hour as you could encounter<br />

game of all sizes on the roads. You will find<br />

many of the animals are accustomed to vehicles<br />

and you will get some superb photographs from<br />

your car. If you prefer not to self-drive, we can<br />

arrange organised game drives for you.<br />

Road sign in Damaraland<br />

Game viewing in Etosha<br />

20


Driving in Damaraland<br />

Transparent Namib dune gecko<br />

Seal at Cape Cross<br />

Donkey cart on the road<br />

Traffic is light in Windhoek<br />

Self-driving with <strong>Audley</strong><br />

We have been arranging self-drive trips to<br />

Namibia for years and offer a few small touches<br />

to make your trip easier and more comfortable.<br />

Planning<br />

All our specialists have driven extensively<br />

around Namibia. We will plan a route<br />

carefully taking into account what you’d like<br />

to do and keeping an eye on the driving<br />

distances and times.<br />

Maps<br />

On arrival in Namibia you will be given a fully<br />

annotated map with your route highlighted<br />

and your lodges marked.<br />

Phones<br />

It is always useful to have a mobile phone and<br />

Namibia’s network coverage is improving each<br />

year. We can provide you with a phone with all<br />

the numbers of your lodges programmed into<br />

it as well as our contact numbers. We provide<br />

a phone card for you which you can top up<br />

as you need.<br />

Cool boxes<br />

We always recommend that you carry water<br />

and a few snacks in the car. To enable you to<br />

keep your drinks cool, we will supply you with<br />

a cool box at the start of your trip which we<br />

ask you to return at the end.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 21


Breeding herd of elephant in Etosha<br />

Etosha National Park<br />

Etosha is one of Africa’s largest game parks. Much<br />

of it is covered by the silver Etosha salt pan that<br />

shimmers in the heat, but to the south are open<br />

grasslands, woodland and waterholes that act as<br />

magnets for game. In the dry season the game<br />

congregates around the water sources, leading to<br />

some phenomenal game viewing. On Etosha’s<br />

grassveld it is easy to find grazers, including<br />

Burchell’s zebra, blue wildebeest, red hartebeest<br />

and black-faced impala. Kudu are found on the<br />

margins of the woodland, whilst giraffe nibble the<br />

acacias and eland come to drink. Etosha’s cats are<br />

thriving, with large populations of lion, leopard<br />

and cheetah. Elephant are found in hundred<br />

strong herds whilst black and white rhino are also<br />

found, particularly in the west of the park. Etosha<br />

Zebra at a waterhole in Etosha<br />

22<br />

has over 340 bird species and it is common to<br />

see ostrich and secretary birds on the open plains.<br />

There are over 35 species of raptor, including the<br />

yellowbilled kite, steppe eagle and pygmy falcon.<br />

To explore Etosha you can either self-drive from<br />

camps inside the park or enjoy both self-drive and<br />

guided trips from one of the private reserves<br />

outside the park gates.<br />

Ongava Lodge<br />

ONGAVA LODGE, ONGAVA<br />

RESERVE, SOUTHERN ETOSHA<br />

Ongava Lodge is situated within the private<br />

Ongava Reserve adjacent to Etosha. The lodge<br />

comprises of 14 en suite air-conditioned chalets,<br />

attractively built out of rock and thatch. Every<br />

chalet has a deck for afternoon reading or<br />

enjoying the view, if you’re not inclined to take<br />

a dip in the pool. Activities include walks, night<br />

drives and rhino tracking on the reserve as well<br />

as game drives into Etosha.<br />

Lion on the road from Okaukuejo<br />

ONGAVA TENTED CAMP, ONGAVA<br />

RESERVE, SOUTHERN ETOSHA<br />

Small, intimate and comfortable, the Ongava<br />

Tented Camp has eight tastefully decorated tents<br />

with en suite bathrooms with an indoor and<br />

outdoor shower. Each tent overlooks the busy<br />

waterhole, which attracts a wide variety of<br />

mammals and birds and is floodlit at night. Tasty<br />

home-cooked meals are served in the open-sided<br />

dining room and guests sit together at a large table.<br />

There is a friendly and relaxed atmosphere with<br />

guests chatting late into the night around the fire.<br />

Ongava Tented Camp


Secretary bird<br />

Mushara Outpost<br />

Giraffe on Etosha’s grasslands<br />

Namutoni Restcamp Mushara Bush Camp The pool at Onguma Tented Camp<br />

OKAUKUEJO, HALALI AND<br />

NAMUTONI RESTCAMPS, ETOSHA<br />

These three restcamps are run by the<br />

government and offer accommodation with basic<br />

facilities within the park. Okaukuejo is in the west<br />

of the park, Halali in the centre and Namutoni in<br />

the east. Surrounded by game fences, each camp<br />

has an array of bungalows, a restaurant, shop and<br />

pool. Whilst the accommodation is simple, the<br />

real attraction is the waterholes beside which<br />

the camps are built. These are exciting at night<br />

when elephant, rhino, giraffe and lion appear<br />

out of the dark to drink.<br />

MUSHARA BUSH CAMP,<br />

EASTERN ETOSHA<br />

Mushara Bush Camp offers a down-to-earth<br />

tented experience which is well suited to<br />

independent travellers exploring Etosha. The 16<br />

custom-made tents are spacious and airy and each<br />

has a shower looking into the bush. The main area<br />

is thatched and has a true camp feel to it, as early<br />

evenings see a fire lit around which guests sit and<br />

exchange stories of the day’s wildlife sightings.<br />

Dinners are served outside on the veranda and<br />

food is both plentiful and delicious.<br />

ONGUMA TENTED CAMP,<br />

ONGUMA RESERVE, EASTERN ETOSHA<br />

Onguma Tented Camp is situated in the private<br />

Onguma Reserve around a natural waterhole that<br />

attracts giraffe, zebra, oryx and occasionally lion<br />

and rhino. The camp has seven luxury tents built<br />

out of wood and stone and furnished with natural<br />

textiles. The infinity pool looks over the waterhole<br />

and has comfortable sunloungers where you can<br />

relax and read a book or watch the game coming<br />

to drink. Guests can either drive into the reserve<br />

or enjoy guided game drives.<br />

MUSHARA OUTPOST,<br />

EASTERN ETOSHA<br />

This luxury tented camp is situated on the<br />

banks of a dry riverbed on Mushara’s private<br />

land. Each en suite tent is built on a wooden<br />

deck and has glass windows and doors with<br />

built in fly-screens to keep some of the smaller<br />

local residents outside. For the hottest days, there<br />

is air-conditioning. The main building has the style<br />

of an old farmhouse with tall walls, an iron roof<br />

and wrap around veranda. Both scheduled and<br />

private game drives into Etosha are possible.<br />

Gemsbok and ostrich at a waterhole<br />

www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 23


Hippo in Caprivi<br />

Kudu in Mudumu National Park<br />

The Caprivi Strip<br />

In northern Namibia the Caprivi Strip stretches<br />

east along the top of Botswana and is quite<br />

unlike the rest of the country. Thanks to its<br />

relatively high rainfall it has lush vegetation, and<br />

many small villages with children herding goats<br />

and cows. Game parks support high densities<br />

of elephant, buffalo, lion and hippo, and<br />

crocodile are ever-present in the wetland<br />

areas. The permanent rivers, reedbeds and<br />

riverine forest host a large number of bird<br />

species, including those not commonly found<br />

in other parts of Namibia, such as kingfishers,<br />

darters, herons and gallinules. As a trip across<br />

the Caprivi takes around two weeks, we<br />

recommend that you only drive one way,<br />

ending your trip at Victoria Falls.<br />

NDHOVU SAFARI LODGE,<br />

MAHANGU GAME RESERVE<br />

This lodge is situated two kilometres from the<br />

Mahangu Game Reserve, which is ideal for<br />

game viewing and a birder’s paradise. There<br />

are eight safari tents overlooking the river,<br />

where elephant often come to drink. All the<br />

tents have twin beds and en suite facilities. At<br />

night you can hear the hippo grazing close by.<br />

Activities from the lodge include boat trips,<br />

game drives and birdwatching.<br />

24<br />

Lianshulu Lodge<br />

LIANSHULU LODGE, MUDUMU<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Lianshulu Lodge is situated on the banks of<br />

the Kwando River in the Mudumu National<br />

Park. The surrounding area is a wilderness of<br />

riverine forest, marsh and open woodland,<br />

and game densities are high. The lodge has<br />

11 thatched chalets, stylishly furnished with<br />

polished wooden floors, large beds with crisp<br />

linen, inside and outside showers and viewing<br />

decks overlooking the river and flood plains.<br />

There is also a small pool which is perfect<br />

for hot afternoons.<br />

Elephant in the Chobe River<br />

Ndhovu Safari Lodge<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Namibia specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 525<br />

Getting around<br />

The main way to explore Namibia is on a selfdrive<br />

safari. You will collect your car in Windhoek<br />

and our agents will brief you fully on your<br />

journey, providing maps and driving directions.<br />

The majority of roads are gravel but they are<br />

usually well graded and always well signposted –<br />

with a good map it is hard to get lost. A 4x4 is<br />

essential in the rainy season, however, at other<br />

times of year an ordinary car can be used. When<br />

you reach your destination you can leave your car<br />

and set out to explore on guided excursions. We<br />

have suggested two self-drive itineraries here but<br />

these are a tiny fraction of the trips we can<br />

arrange. An alternative to driving is flying around<br />

the country using the scheduled light aircraft<br />

flights that go to the Sossusvlei, Damaraland and<br />

Etosha regions. You can choose how many days<br />

you’d like to stay in each place and we can tailor<br />

the trip to this.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Namibia has a sub-tropical desert climate,<br />

characterised by low rainfall and large<br />

temperature fluctuations between day and night.<br />

During the dry season, which runs broadly from<br />

April to October, the skies are blue with rarely a<br />

cloud in sight. In November the rain clouds start<br />

to build but rain tends not to fall until early<br />

December. Then, through the rainy period there<br />

will typically be a downpour for around an hour<br />

on some days, before the skies and the<br />

atmosphere clear again.<br />

Time difference: GMT+1 hour<br />

Flight time from UK: 12 hours and 30 minutes<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Namibia on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.


Suggested itineraries<br />

Southern<br />

Damaraland<br />

ANGOLA<br />

Etosha National Park<br />

Northern<br />

Damaraland<br />

ANGOLA<br />

Etosha National Park<br />

ANGOLA<br />

Etosha National Park<br />

Central Highlands<br />

Rundu<br />

Mahangu<br />

Game<br />

Reserve<br />

Livingstone<br />

Mudumu<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Kasane<br />

Swakopmund<br />

Windhoek<br />

Swakopmund<br />

Windhoek<br />

Windhoek<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

Sossusvlei<br />

NAMBIA<br />

Sossusvlei<br />

NamibRand Nature Reserve<br />

NAMBIA<br />

NAMBIA<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

Highlights of Namibia<br />

This itinerary is a self-drive circular trip of<br />

Namibia’s highlights. You will have the chance to<br />

enjoy the dunes at Sossusvlei, kayak to the seal<br />

colony at Pelican Point, track desert elephant in<br />

Damaraland and enjoy Etosha’s big game. Many of<br />

the lodges have guides who will take you out to<br />

explore. We will provide you with maps and<br />

information so all you have to do is hop in the<br />

car and go.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Days 3-4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Days 7-8<br />

Days 9-10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Fly from the UK to Windhoek<br />

via Frankfurt.<br />

Arrive in Windhoek. Road transfer<br />

into Windhoek for one night at The<br />

Elegant Guesthouse.<br />

Collect car and self-drive to<br />

Sossusvlei for two nights at the<br />

Sossus Dune Lodge. Explore the<br />

dunes at Sossusvlei.<br />

Drive to Swakopmund for two nights<br />

at Cornerstone Guesthouse.<br />

Morning kayak trip to Pelican Point.<br />

Drive to Southern Damaraland for<br />

two nights at Camp Kipwe. Explore<br />

Damaraland on guided game drives.<br />

Drive to Etosha National Park<br />

for two nights at Okaukuejo<br />

Restcamp. Game viewing in Etosha<br />

National Park.<br />

Drive to Windhoek and leave the<br />

car at Windhoek Airport. Fly from<br />

Windhoek to Frankfurt<br />

Fly from Frankfurt to London. Arrive<br />

back in the UK in the early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

If you would like to end your trip with some<br />

relaxing time on a beach then we suggest adding<br />

on a week in Mauritius. A lush tropical island,<br />

Mauritius is quite a contrast to Namibia. We can<br />

recommend a handful of delightful hotels with<br />

good food in quiet locations. All are set above<br />

picture perfect beaches and have beautiful pools,<br />

small spas and extensive water and land based<br />

activities. After time in Mauritius you can take a<br />

direct flight back to the UK.<br />

Desert Flying<br />

See Namibia’s spectacular scenery from the air.<br />

On the trip you can explore the NamibRand<br />

Nature Reserve before heading up to Sossusvlei<br />

to climb the world’s highest dunes. In northern<br />

Namibia you will track rhino in Damaraland before<br />

ending your trip in Etosha. This trip is suited to<br />

those looking to enjoy Namibia’s highlights from<br />

luxurious camps with expert guides.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Days 3-4<br />

Days 5-6<br />

Days 7-8<br />

Days 9-10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Fly from the UK to Windhoek<br />

via Frankfurt.<br />

Transfer into Windhoek for one<br />

night at The Olive Grove.<br />

Fly to the NamibRand Nature<br />

Reserve for two nights at<br />

Wolwedans Dune Lodge. Explore<br />

the NamibRand on game drives and<br />

walking safaris.<br />

Fly to the Kulala Wilderness Reserve<br />

for two nights at the Kulala Desert<br />

Lodge. Explore Sossusvlei on nature<br />

drives and on foot.<br />

Fly to Northern Damaraland for<br />

two nights at Rhino Camp. Rhino<br />

tracking and game viewing on foot<br />

and by vehicle.<br />

Fly to the Ongava Reserve for two<br />

nights at Ongava Tented Camp.<br />

Game viewing on the Ongava<br />

Reserve and in Etosha National Park.<br />

Fly to Windhoek and connect with<br />

your flight to Frankfurt.<br />

Fly from Frankfurt to the UK, arriving<br />

in the early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Fly from Windhoek to Maun in Botswana and<br />

spend four nights in the heart of the Okavango<br />

Delta. In contrast to Namibia, here you will be<br />

surrounded by twinkling rivers, waterlilies, birds<br />

and butterflies. Spend the days exploring by boat<br />

or mokoro and on morning and afternoon game<br />

drives to seek out Botswana’s big game. At night,<br />

enjoy drinks around the campfire before a dinner<br />

lit by lanterns and candles.<br />

Caprivi Explorer<br />

The Caprivi Explorer starts in Windhoek and ends<br />

at Livingstone in Zambia and would suit wildlife<br />

enthusiasts. There is the chance to see big cats at<br />

Okonjima before heading into Etosha. In the<br />

Caprivi, the environment changes, with rivers and<br />

wetlands alive with water birds. Game here can be<br />

viewed from boats as well as open 4x4s. The trip<br />

ends in Livingstone, from where you can visit the<br />

Victoria Falls.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Days 4-5<br />

Day 6<br />

Days 7-9<br />

Fly from the UK to Windhoek via<br />

Frankfurt.<br />

Road transfer into Windhoek for one<br />

night at The Elegant Guesthouse.<br />

Self-drive to the Central Highlands<br />

for one night at Okonjima Lodge.<br />

View cheetah on guided drives.<br />

Drive to Eastern Etosha for two<br />

nights at Mushara Bushcamp. Game<br />

viewing in Etosha National Park.<br />

Drive to Rundu for one night at<br />

Hakusembe River Lodge. Afternoon<br />

boat trip.<br />

Drive to the Mahangu National Park<br />

for three nights at Ndhovu Safari<br />

Lodge. Game viewing in the Park.<br />

Day 10-12 Drive to Mudumu National Park for<br />

three nights at Lianshulu Lodge.<br />

Further time on safari.<br />

Days 13-15 Drive to Kasane and leave car. Road<br />

transfer to Livingstone for three<br />

nights at Waterberry Lodge. Enjoy<br />

boat trips on the Zambezi River.<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Fly to Johannesburg and then the UK.<br />

Arrive back in the UK in the early<br />

morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

From Ndhovu Safari Lodge, drive south into<br />

Botswana and stay at Nxamaseri Lodge in<br />

Botswana’s Panhandle region for three days. In this<br />

wetland Delta environment, you can enjoy walking<br />

safaris as well as boat trips on which you will be<br />

surrounded by hippos, crocodiles and waterbirds.<br />

After three days, drive back into Namibia and<br />

continue your trip along the Caprivi.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/namibia ● 01993 838 525 ● Namibia 25


South Africa<br />

South Africa is a diverse and<br />

beautiful country with a huge<br />

amount to offer from cosmopolitan<br />

cities and superb safaris to historic<br />

battlegrounds and picturesque<br />

vineyards producing excellent wines.<br />

Among the highlights are the lagoons<br />

and dunes of the Garden Route, the<br />

iconic outline of Table Mountain, the<br />

aloes and cracked rocks of the Klein<br />

Karoo and expansive battlefields of<br />

KwaZulu-Natal. South Africa has<br />

excellent wildlife with the big five<br />

resident in the Kruger National Park.<br />

Other lesser known reserves such as<br />

Madikwe, Phinda, and the private<br />

reserves of the Eastern Cape offer just<br />

as good game viewing with fewer<br />

visitors. Those interested in marine<br />

life can enjoy whale watching off the<br />

Cape Coast from July to November.<br />

Due to excellent flight connections<br />

with the UK and variety of<br />

accommodation, trips can be tailored<br />

to suit all interests and budgets.<br />

Table Mountain<br />

1 Cape Town<br />

The iconic Table Mountain and<br />

Cape Point are two dramatic<br />

features of this culturally<br />

diverse city.<br />

mountain passes, pretty towns<br />

and beautiful wilderness areas.<br />

5 Kruger National Park<br />

Home to the Big Five and a<br />

wide range of safari camps.<br />

6<br />

5<br />

7<br />

8<br />

2 Winelands<br />

Stellenbosch and Franschhoek<br />

are the heart of the wine<br />

region, famous for food<br />

and drink.<br />

3 Whale Coast<br />

From July to November,<br />

Hermanus offers the best<br />

land-based whale watching in<br />

the world.<br />

4 Garden Route<br />

A route winding through<br />

6 Drakensberg Mountains<br />

The highest mountain range<br />

in Southern Africa, excellent<br />

for hiking.<br />

7 Battlefields<br />

Professional tours to the sites of<br />

the Anglo-Zulu and Anglo-Boer<br />

Wars are spell-binding.<br />

8 Elephant Coast<br />

In KwaZulu-Natal, this coastline<br />

has beautiful beaches and<br />

excellent diving.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />

3<br />

26<br />

Cape Dutch Farmhouse


Leopard in the Kruger National Park<br />

The Cape Region<br />

Cape Town is a city on everyone’s must-see list.<br />

As well as being a vibrant hub with great<br />

shopping and restaurants, it is also a good base<br />

for exploration of the region, particularly the<br />

Cape Peninsula. The nearby Winelands can either<br />

be visited from Cape Town, or a few days can be<br />

spent based at a vineyard in Franschhoek or<br />

Stellenbosch. East of Cape Town, Walker and<br />

Gans Bay are two of the best locations in which<br />

to see whales, in season. The Garden Route is<br />

ideal for a few days spent exploring the lagoons,<br />

wandering along sandy beaches, or walking<br />

through forested hills. Towards the end of the<br />

Garden Route you encounter the Wild Coast, an<br />

unspoilt area of deserted beaches fringed with<br />

mangrove jungle – arguably the most beautiful<br />

area of South Africa.<br />

KwaZulu-Natal<br />

The province of KwaZulu-Natal justifies a trip in<br />

its own right. The towering Drakensberg<br />

Mountains are within easy reach of Durban and<br />

are popular with those keen on hiking and<br />

photography. Nearby, the famous battlefields of<br />

Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift are a must for<br />

history enthusiasts. There are a few lovely, homely<br />

lodges complete with expert guides to recount<br />

tales on the sites of the battles themselves. If<br />

birding and safari are of interest then the region<br />

does not disappoint, as it contains the wetland<br />

ecosystem of Lake St Lucia, full of aquatic birds,<br />

and the surrounding bush is home to the big five.<br />

No trip to this area would be complete without a<br />

few days’ relaxation on some of the dramatic<br />

beaches that stretch north from Durban to the<br />

Mozambique border.<br />

Safari<br />

Safari is a huge draw in South Africa. There are<br />

four key areas: the Greater Kruger Park, the<br />

Eastern Cape, Madikwe and the reserves in<br />

KwaZulu-Natal. With the exception of the Kruger,<br />

all are malaria-free making them excellent options,<br />

particularly for families. The Kruger is the largest<br />

of all the parks with fantastic game viewing. It<br />

offers every type of accommodation from basic<br />

self-catering chalets to some of Africa’s most<br />

opulent lodges. The Eastern Cape reserves work<br />

well for those exploring the Garden Route as<br />

they are within easy reach. These areas are<br />

especially well suited to families, and offer safari<br />

activities for children. The Madikwe Reserve<br />

bordering Botswana is a wild reserve with few<br />

lodges; it offers a quieter experience and is suited<br />

to the safari purist. Finally, the reserves in<br />

KwaZulu-Natal offer everything from the oldest<br />

game park in Africa to award-winning parks with<br />

stunning accommodation and the big five.<br />

Zulu girl<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in South Africa<br />

South Africa has a good road network, traffic<br />

is generally light, and driving is on the left –<br />

all of which make it an ideal self-drive<br />

destination. Many of our travellers choose<br />

this option, and we provide good quality<br />

cars with comprehensive sets of maps and<br />

directions. For those who don’t want to<br />

drive, we work closely with a number of<br />

guides and drivers who can drive you around<br />

the country. A fun way to explore is on a rail<br />

journey, and we can book seats on both the<br />

Blue Train and Rovos Rail. Our specialists<br />

have explored the country every possible<br />

way themselves and can advise on the best<br />

option to suit you.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Accommodation in South Africa is varied and<br />

there are endless options. We have travelled<br />

extensively throughout the country and have<br />

hand-picked a selection of properties for<br />

their character, hospitality and service. We<br />

tend to avoid the large chain hotels and<br />

prefer lodges and guesthouses. These are<br />

small – normally about five to ten rooms –<br />

and are owned and run by people we know<br />

personally. We find that this ensures the<br />

utmost attention to detail for our travellers,<br />

with the added advantage that the owners<br />

themselves are a wealth of local information.<br />

We also work with some of South Africa’s<br />

leading hotels, as well as safari properties<br />

ranging from simple tented camps to<br />

opulent lodges.<br />

Our South<br />

Africa Brochure<br />

We have a brochure<br />

dedicated to South Africa.<br />

Please call our specialists<br />

on 01993 838 550 for<br />

your copy.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in South Africa,<br />

please see see our website or request<br />

our South Africa brochure.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features, further<br />

suggested itineraries, accommodation,<br />

climate information and articles written<br />

by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our South Africa<br />

specialists 01993 838 550<br />

South Africa 27


Botswana<br />

Over a thousand miles from Botswana,<br />

rain falls in Central Africa. Big drops<br />

drip from trees, rush into streams, down<br />

gullies and into rivers. Slowly the<br />

Okavango River forms, and flows, not to<br />

the sea, but into the rippling sands of the<br />

Kalahari where it disperses in a myriad<br />

of waterways and twinkling lagoons,<br />

creating a delicate web of life. This is the<br />

Okavango Delta, a world of glittering<br />

water. Whispering palm islands are<br />

criss-crossed with animal tracks, the<br />

surrounding lagoons carpeted with lilies<br />

beneath which silver fish dart to and fro.<br />

Iridescent kingfishers dive, hippos grunt<br />

and papyrus rustles in the breeze. Elephant<br />

and giraffe feed in the shade of waterberries<br />

whilst on open grasslands buffalo, tsessebe,<br />

zebra and wildebeest are watched by the<br />

eyes of lion. Red lechwe fly across emerald<br />

green floodplains and in the distance a<br />

fish eagle cries. As night falls the clink of<br />

the reedfrogs begins. Fruitbats squeak and<br />

spirals of wood smoke rise from the glowing<br />

embers of a fire. The ink black sky is<br />

littered with stars and the shining haze<br />

of the milky way.<br />

28


<strong>Audley</strong> in Botswana<br />

2<br />

7<br />

6<br />

1<br />

9<br />

3<br />

5<br />

4<br />

10<br />

8<br />

Botswana is often viewed as the ultimate<br />

safari destination in Africa. Game is excellent,<br />

there are a small number of camps and the<br />

scenery is unparalleled. The country is famous<br />

for its beautiful Okavango Delta and we<br />

would recommend spending time here. The<br />

central Okavango has deep water areas with<br />

papyrus-lined channels, floodplains and palm<br />

islands. It is an ideal environment to enjoy<br />

boat and mokoro trips in search of hippo,<br />

crocodile and birds. At the fringes of the<br />

Delta the water meets the dry plains. Here<br />

some of Botswana’s most impressive game<br />

can be enjoyed from open 4x4s as well as<br />

boats and on foot. Whilst the Okavango<br />

Delta is often top of the list for travellers to<br />

Botswana, other regions such as the Linyanti<br />

Wetlands, Chobe National Park, Makgadikgadi<br />

Pans and Central Kalahari, should not be<br />

overlooked. It is also easy to visit the Victoria<br />

Falls either before or after a safari.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Meerkats in the Makgadikgadi Pans<br />

1 Central Okavango Delta<br />

An area of tranquil waterways<br />

and lagoons lined by papyrus<br />

and covered with waterlilies,<br />

best enjoyed from a mokoro.<br />

2 The Okavango Fringes<br />

Waterways meet dry land areas<br />

and give rise to prolific game.<br />

A good range of safari activities<br />

includes walks, mokoro trips and<br />

game drives.<br />

3 Moremi Game Reserve<br />

At the heart of the Delta<br />

encompassing Chief’s Island this<br />

is one of Africa’s finest big game<br />

areas.<br />

4 Chobe National Park<br />

Famed for huge herds of<br />

elephant and buffalo, this is also<br />

a good area for big cats.<br />

5 Chobe River<br />

This large river is renowned for<br />

providing drinking water to large<br />

herds of elephant. Giraffe,<br />

buffalo, zebra and big cats are<br />

often found on the floodplains.<br />

6 The Duba Plains<br />

Known for the thousand-strong<br />

herd of buffalo and five large<br />

lion prides that hunt them on a<br />

daily basis.<br />

7 Linyanti Wetlands<br />

A beautiful area encompassing<br />

plains and lagoons. One of the<br />

best places in Africa to see<br />

wild dog.<br />

Game viewing in Chitabe Concession<br />

Flying over the Delta<br />

8 Makgadikgadi Pans<br />

Stunning other-worldly scenery,<br />

unrivalled remoteness and clans<br />

of meerkat make this a unique<br />

place to explore.<br />

9 Central Kalahari<br />

The desert blooms after the<br />

rains and attracts large numbers<br />

of zebra and other plains game<br />

as well as hyena and blackmaned<br />

lion.<br />

10 Nxai Pan<br />

This stark desert environment<br />

supports good game densities<br />

and is home to one of<br />

Botswana’s most iconic sights,<br />

the Baines Baobabs.<br />

Botswana has been extremely careful in the<br />

development of its camps and as a result<br />

there are only a small number of properties<br />

in the country. All the camps are unique in<br />

both character and location - some built up<br />

in trees and others on stilts above the<br />

floodplains. None of the camps are fenced<br />

so don’t be surprised to find elephant outside<br />

your tent. Botswana has a reputation for<br />

being expensive and the most luxurious<br />

lodges are not cheap. However you do get<br />

what you pay for – a beautiful camp in a<br />

pristine environment. If you do not have the<br />

budget for the higher end camps we know<br />

lots of other ways to explore the country.<br />

Mobile camping safaris are an excellent<br />

option, as are some of the lesser-known<br />

camps in the national parks. We know all<br />

the camps from personal experience and<br />

can tailor an itinerary to match both your<br />

interests and budget.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Botswana, please<br />

see page 41.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Botswana<br />

specialists 01993 838 530<br />

Botswana 29


Mokoro trip in the Central Okavango<br />

The Central Okavango<br />

The Central Okavango has some of Africa’s most<br />

beautiful scenery. There are deep blue channels,<br />

emerald-green floodplains and palm islands. The<br />

waters are covered in thousands of flowers, with<br />

carpets of orange riverlilies, pink waterlilies and<br />

water lettuce. Tiny reed frogs cling to papyrus and<br />

in open lagoons only the flick of a hippo’s ear or<br />

the corrugated back of a crocodile stirs the water.<br />

The waterways are home to some spectacular<br />

birdlife. As the mist rises from the water in the<br />

early morning it is possible to see little bee-eaters<br />

perched in fluffy groups on the papyrus. Malachite,<br />

pied, woodland and pygmy are just some of the<br />

kingfishers you may see, whilst on the floodplains,<br />

wattled cranes, saddlebilled storks and slaty egrets<br />

catch tiny silver fish and frogs.<br />

From the deep channels, squashed reeds indicate<br />

a hippo track leading up to the dry land of a palm<br />

island. Here you will find elephant, giraffe, zebra,<br />

tsessebe, bushbuck and baboon. At night,<br />

fruit-bats squeak and bushbabies leap in the trees.<br />

The Central Okavango is spanned by the Moremi<br />

Game Reserve as well as private reserves<br />

including the Jao, Xigera, Nxabega and Xudum<br />

Reserves. These have a number of small camps<br />

ranging from luxury chalets to tree top houses.<br />

All offer a variety of activities including game<br />

drives, walks and night drives, but boating and<br />

mokoro (dug out canoe) trips are the highlights.<br />

30<br />

Arriving at Kanana airstrip<br />

Elephant in the Okavango<br />

Lilac breasted roller<br />

KANANA CAMP, NXABEGA<br />

RESERVE, CENTRAL OKAVANGO<br />

Kanana Camp is set in the Nxabega Reserve<br />

near the Xudum River. The area is dotted with<br />

fig, palm and waterberry trees, providing valuable<br />

shade and lookout points for predators, who<br />

gather to spot their prey on the floodplains.<br />

Kanana has eight en suite safari tents which can<br />

be opened up completely, giving a lovely airy feel<br />

during the heat of the day. Outside on the<br />

shaded veranda there are a couple of safari chairs,<br />

ideal for sitting with your binoculars and a book.<br />

The camp is built around a large tree with steps<br />

down to a sandy boma where a fire blazes at<br />

night. Activities from Kanana include mokoro trips,<br />

boating, walking and game drives.<br />

Kanana Camp


BOTSWANA<br />

Frog on a lily pad<br />

Nxabega Okavango Camp<br />

NXABEGA OKAVANGO SAFARI<br />

CAMP, NXABEGA RESERVE,<br />

CENTRAL OKAVANGO<br />

Flying into the Nxabega Reserve, you see the<br />

deep winding Bora River and twinkling channels<br />

crisscrossed with a network of hippo paths.<br />

Though you won’t spot it from the air, Nxabega<br />

Camp is tucked into the riverine vegetation,<br />

overlooking a shallow channel. There are ten<br />

tents, spaced well apart in the trees, each<br />

containing beds with fluffy duvets, desks with<br />

porcupine-quill lamps and big white candles for<br />

lighting at night. Food is particularly good at<br />

Nxabega with dining outside under the stars.<br />

Whilst game drives are possible it’s the boat and<br />

mokoro trips that are the highlights of a stay here,<br />

accompanied by an expert guide to help you<br />

explore the Xou Lagoon and perhaps even try<br />

a spot of fishing.<br />

XIGERA CAMP, XIGERA RESERVE,<br />

CENTRAL OKAVANGO<br />

Xigera is built in one of the most beautiful<br />

corners of the Okavango. The camp is<br />

surrounded by deep water and offers mokoro<br />

and boat trips as well as walks and drives on<br />

nearby islands. There are eight spacious tents with<br />

large beds, rush matting on the floors, wooden<br />

wardrobes and en suite bathrooms with indoor<br />

and outdoor showers. The rooms are built within<br />

a shady grove and overlook a floodplain and a<br />

waterhole which is frequented by elephant,<br />

lechwe, buffalo and lots of birds. Meals are<br />

enjoyed in an open-sided dining room with<br />

views of the river. There’s a plunge pool for hot<br />

afternoons and a roaring campfire at night. In an<br />

area with no other camps, Xigera is an ideal base<br />

in the heart of the Okavango.<br />

Xigera Camp<br />

Xudum Delta Lodge<br />

XUDUM DELTA LODGE, XUDUM<br />

RESERVE, CENTRAL OKAVANGO<br />

Xudum Delta Lodge offers privacy and exclusivity<br />

and is one of the most luxurious properties in the<br />

Delta. The nine split-level safari suites have large<br />

bedrooms with king-sized beds and bathrooms<br />

with bathtubs and outdoor showers. A private<br />

plunge pool and a lofty viewing platform offer<br />

magnificent Delta views. During your stay at<br />

Xudum you can enjoy walking safaris and game<br />

drives. Night drives are good for spotting owls,<br />

civet, wild cats and bushbabies. As the lodge is in<br />

a permanent water area you can enjoy water<br />

activities all year round. Sit back and relax as<br />

you are gently poled through the lily and reed<br />

waterways in a traditional mokoro.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 31


Buffalo on the Duba Plains<br />

The Northern Okavango<br />

Fringes<br />

At the northern fringes of the Delta the waters<br />

of the Okavango meet the dry plains and give<br />

rise to an area of both spectacular beauty and<br />

extraordinary game. The environment<br />

encompasses sweeping floodplains, islands of<br />

strangler figs, forests of tall mangosteen and open<br />

grassland where game congregates. Plains game<br />

such as zebra, tsessebe, impala, giraffe, wildebeest<br />

and large herds of buffalo are found in large<br />

numbers in the dryer areas. On one plain, known<br />

as Duba, there are hundreds of buffalo that are<br />

hunted daily by large prides of lion.<br />

Lagoons such as the Kaparota are spectacular at<br />

sunset when herds of elephant come to drink,<br />

moving their feet to create waves that keep<br />

crocodiles at bay. Forests are home to leopard<br />

and hyena, and jackal and wild dog can also be<br />

found. The seasonal channels and glassy pools<br />

are magical, with crystal clear water and tiny silver<br />

fish darting below. Pied kingfishers flit above the<br />

waters and black crakes dart into the reeds. The<br />

northern fringes of the Delta are shared by the<br />

Moremi Game Reserve and a number of private<br />

reserves including the Shinde, Kwara, Vumbura<br />

and Duba. With seasonal flood waters flowing in<br />

and out of these areas, game drives are possible<br />

all year round and boat trips begin when the<br />

floodwaters have arrived, from May onwards.<br />

32<br />

SHINDE CAMP, SHINDE RESERVE,<br />

NORTHERN OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />

Shinde Camp is situated on a large palm island in<br />

the northern Okavango Delta. It is surrounded by<br />

clear waterways bursting with birdlife and plains<br />

where game can be found. The camp has eight<br />

spacious safari tents raised up on decks<br />

overlooking a large plain. The open sided central<br />

lounge is built on raised wooden decking on<br />

various levels, rising towards a bowed canvas roof,<br />

a little like an old ox-wagon. Shinde boasts a wide<br />

variety of activities, including game drives in open<br />

4x4s and walking safaris. Mokoro trips are also a<br />

highlight and boat trips to Gadikwe Island heronry<br />

can be enjoyed during the nesting season.<br />

Dining at Shinde Camp<br />

Duba Plains Camp<br />

DUBA PLAINS, DUBA RESERVE,<br />

NORTHERN OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />

The focus at Duba is game drives which follow<br />

the battle between the huge resident buffalo herd<br />

and prides of lion. The guides know every lion<br />

and can tell you about them in depth. This is an<br />

excellent camp for photographers. The camp has<br />

six tents situated on a shady woodland island,<br />

each with lovely views over the floodplains. The<br />

main boma is raised up on stilts and houses a<br />

small lounge and bar area. The adjoining dining<br />

area has a communal dining table and there’s<br />

usually a sociable and lively atmosphere at meals.<br />

At night the camp comes alive with noises of fruit<br />

bats, cicadas and reed-frogs.


Hyena pup<br />

Waterlily flower<br />

Malachite kingfisher<br />

Cheetah in the Vumbura Concession<br />

LITTLE VUMBURA,<br />

VUMBURA RESERVE, NORTHERN<br />

OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />

On a tiny island surrounded by floodplains, Little<br />

Vumbura is a real hideaway accessed by boat<br />

through channels flanked by towering papyrus.<br />

When in camp, shaded by wild date palms and<br />

overhung with long creepers, you feel as though<br />

you are tucked away in a jungle. There are seven<br />

tents, a central lounge and a small pool, all<br />

surrounded by bush.<br />

At night the whole camp reverberates with the<br />

sound of reed frogs and hippos. The outdoor<br />

deck is a wonderful place in which to sit around<br />

the fire and gaze up at the stars. Activities at Little<br />

Vumbura include game drives in the dry land<br />

areas and mokoro excursions which offer<br />

particularly good birding. Night drives allow you<br />

to spot bushbabies, honeybadgers and leopard.<br />

Dusk at Little Vumbura<br />

Bathtub in Kwara’s honeymoon suite<br />

KWARA CAMP, KWARA RESERVE,<br />

NORTHERN OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />

Kwara is a compact camp with eight tents situated<br />

on a small palm island. Each tent is raised on a<br />

wooden platform and has a deck at the front and<br />

en suite bathroom with outdoor shower to the<br />

rear. The main lodge is under thatch and houses<br />

a dining room, lounge and bar. There is always a<br />

camp fire lit at night. This area has good game<br />

densities and the lodge offers lots of activities<br />

from power boat trips into the Delta to mokoro<br />

trips along tranquil waterways. These adventures<br />

are in addition to the land based activities which<br />

include game drives and nature walks.<br />

CAMP OKUTI, MOREMI<br />

GAME RESERVE, NORTHERN<br />

OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />

Camp Okuti is positioned under shady trees at<br />

the edge of Xakanaxa Lagoon and within close<br />

range of shallow floodplains, papyrus swamp and<br />

dense riverine forest. The design of the seven<br />

chalets is unique, with large domed reed roofs,<br />

polished wooden floors with cowhide mats and<br />

local art on the walls. The main area is built of<br />

mud and thatch and has the feel of a traditional<br />

house from the outside but is luxuriously kitted<br />

out on the inside. There is a large mahogany<br />

dining table and fire deck with safari chairs<br />

allowing you ample opportunity to swap stories<br />

with fellow guests. A telescope is set up for<br />

viewing birds and distant game. Guests can enjoy<br />

a variety of activities from Okuti including game<br />

drives, boat and mokoro trips.<br />

A room at Camp Okuti<br />

www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 33


Game viewing from Chitabe Lediba Camp<br />

The Southern Okavango<br />

Fringes<br />

The southern fringes of the Okavango are home<br />

to some large islands with rich game densities.<br />

Huge elephant bulls trundle through pink hippo<br />

grass to thick forests of real fan palms. Here they<br />

shake the trees, trunks raised, until palm nuts rain<br />

down. Troops of baboon pick through the<br />

leftovers, yellow mongoose run under wild sage<br />

bushes and sometimes in the first light of morning<br />

you can see honey-badgers darting into the tall<br />

grass. Many grazers such as tsessebe, impala,<br />

zebra and buffalo can be found on the open<br />

plains whilst giraffe and kudu are found on the<br />

forest fringes.<br />

Though lion are often seen, it is the leopard and<br />

wild dog that hold perhaps the greatest attraction.<br />

Leopard sightings are frequent, with some relaxed<br />

cats happy to be followed by flurries of squawking<br />

guineafowl and quiet vehicles. When the<br />

floodwaters arrive in June the Santantadibe River<br />

swells and spills over into floodplains that are<br />

quickly carpeted with water gentians and<br />

colonised by frogs to the delight of the saddle<br />

billed storks. Lechwe fly through the water, spray<br />

in their wake and fish eagles screech from the<br />

trees. The southern fringes of the Delta are<br />

protected by the Moremi Game Reserve as well<br />

as the Chitabe and Stanley’s private reserves,<br />

where game drives are the main focus.<br />

34<br />

CHITABE LEDIBA CAMP,<br />

CHITABE RESERVE, SOUTHERN<br />

OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />

Chitabe Lediba Camp is located on a palm island<br />

overlooking a natural waterhole. Sandy paths lead<br />

through the trees to five large tents with en suite<br />

bathrooms and shady verandas with views of the<br />

savannah. The main dining and bar area overlooks<br />

the waterhole where elephant come regularly to<br />

drink. Meals are always social and fun at Chitabe<br />

with many being taken outdoors under the stars.<br />

During the day game drives offer superb<br />

photographic opportunities and walks are exciting.<br />

With a small plunge pool for the heat of the day<br />

the camp has everything you need.<br />

Sandibe Safari Lodge<br />

Chitabe Lediba Camp<br />

SANDIBE SAFARI LODGE,<br />

CHITABE RESERVE, SOUTHERN<br />

OKAVANGO FRINGES<br />

Sandibe Camp has been built in a grove of<br />

jackalberry, fig tree and ilala palms. In the main<br />

boma, thick tree branches extend through the<br />

walls, and tree trunks hold up the high thatched<br />

roof. It’s not unusual to look up from lunch and<br />

find an inquisitive baboon high above having a<br />

good look at you, while fruit bats roost up in the<br />

beams in the evenings. Paths meander through<br />

the forest to eight clay and thatch chalets, each<br />

with a North African feel. Outside each chalet,<br />

steps lead up to a raised deck with table and<br />

chairs and views of the Santantadibe River and<br />

floodplains. At night the plains light up with<br />

thousands of flickering fireflies.


Zebra in the Linyanti region<br />

Spotted hyena on a kill<br />

Observing white backed vultures<br />

The Linyanti Wetlands<br />

The Linyanti Wetlands lie northeast of the<br />

Okavango Delta, on the border with Namibia’s<br />

Caprivi Strip. This huge wilderness area stretches<br />

from the winding Linyanti River and encompasses<br />

papyrus swamps, shady forests and open<br />

grasslands fragrant with wild sage. Such diverse<br />

habitats support varied and prolific game. The<br />

region is superb for elephant, at their most<br />

spectacular along the Linyanti River, where<br />

breeding herds in their hundreds can frequently<br />

be seen crossing.<br />

There are some pretty drives along the<br />

floodplains where red lechwe, impala, zebra,<br />

waterbuck and giraffe can be found amongst a<br />

wealth of colourful birdlife including little beeeaters,<br />

glossy ibis and pinkbacked pelicans. Away<br />

Lebala Camp<br />

Lioness and cubs, Linyanti Wetlands<br />

from the river, forests of jackalberry and birdplum<br />

trees are alive with large troops of baboon.<br />

Roan, sable, kudu, impala and buffalo can be seen<br />

shading under apple-leaf trees and warthogs<br />

forage in the grass. Predators are ever-present,<br />

with large resident prides of lion, hyena, leopard<br />

and cheetah, and several packs of wild dog. The<br />

Linyanti Wetlands are protected by three of<br />

Botswana’s most exciting reserves. The Kwando<br />

Reserve stretches along the northern reach of the<br />

Linyanti River and is renowned for its large packs<br />

of wild dog. The Selinda Reserve stretches<br />

towards the Delta and has cheetah as well as lion<br />

that hunt hippo. The Linyanti Reserve has the<br />

Savute Channel running through it and is known<br />

for large herds of elephant as well as predators.<br />

LEBALA CAMP, KWANDO<br />

RESERVE, LINYANTI WETLANDS<br />

Lebala is located on a peninsula of land jutting<br />

into the Linyanti marshes and is accessed by a<br />

small wooden bridge leading over a permanent<br />

channel of water. The attractive main boma is<br />

raised up on stilts above the waters and has a<br />

large lounge area with a high ceiling and views<br />

of floodplains. Game often grazes near camp,<br />

especially in the dry season. Lebala’s eight large<br />

tents are connected by sandy paths and set<br />

amongst the shady riverine trees. Each has an<br />

outdoor shower to the rear of the tent and a<br />

large sunny veranda at the front. Activities focus<br />

on day and night game drives in open 4x4s.<br />

Duma Tau<br />

DUMA TAU, LINYANTI RESERVE,<br />

LINYANTI WETLANDS<br />

This camp is built up on high decks so that hippo<br />

can pass undisturbed underneath. Wooden<br />

walkways (which squirrels run along) lead to ten<br />

thatch and canvas rooms where there are<br />

thoughtful touches such as wildlife books, flowers,<br />

and animal check lists. The main lodge is an open<br />

sided tented structure with squishy sofas set by<br />

the wooden bar and a communal dining room.<br />

A sandy area beneath the trees has a camp fire<br />

which is lit every night when guests return from<br />

game drives. The numerous activities include<br />

morning and afternoon game drives, boat trips in<br />

the middle of the day, walks and a choice of two<br />

hides to watch game from.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 35


Mobile camping safaris<br />

Khwai Adventurer Camp<br />

If lying in bed watching the tent shake because<br />

an elephant is scratching itself on it, or waking<br />

up to the sound of hyena eating a saucepan<br />

appeals to you, then you are probably the<br />

perfect candidate for a mobile camping safari.<br />

Not for the faint-hearted, mobile camping safaris<br />

are a ‘back-to-basics’ way of exploring Africa.<br />

As safari camps get ever more luxurious, we<br />

find that many travellers want to escape from<br />

the cut glass, fluffy towels and butler service and<br />

are keen to immerse themselves in the true<br />

spirit of safari. Leave behind the plush tents and<br />

get back to camping on the ground, dust in your<br />

hair and proper bush around you!<br />

A tent on a mobile camping safari.<br />

Lunch on a mobile camping safari<br />

Scheduled Departures<br />

We work closely with two mobile operators in<br />

Botswana who run scheduled trips across the<br />

country. There are a number of departure<br />

dates – usually a couple a week – thus offering<br />

flexibility to fit into your travel dates. The<br />

mobile safaris as a general rule start in Maun and<br />

explore the Okavango Delta, Linyanti Wetlands<br />

and Chobe National Park, ending at Livingstone<br />

from where you can enjoy the Victoria Falls.<br />

Similar trips run in the opposite direction. Trips<br />

tend to last for around ten days, and it is easy<br />

to add on more time either at the start or<br />

end of your trip.<br />

Guides, Vehicles & Camp Crew<br />

On a scheduled departure the group sizes are<br />

restricted to eight people. When driving from<br />

camp to camp or on game drives you will travel<br />

in a modified land cruiser with four rows of<br />

seats and open sides. Each trip is led by a<br />

professional guide and backed up by a full camp<br />

crew. The crew are the masters of the mobile<br />

camp, erecting tents in minutes, producing three<br />

course meals from a kitchen under an acacia<br />

tree and heating water for bucket showers over<br />

an open fire. They are incredibly good at looking<br />

after your every need, from a hot-chocolate<br />

outside your tent on a chilly morning to a glass<br />

of red wine around the campfire at night.<br />

Campfires are lit each night<br />

36


Watching elephant from a mokoro<br />

Hot water bucket shower<br />

Camping<br />

Each night you stay in a mobile tented camp in<br />

a private campsite. One of our favourite sites<br />

is under a huge jackalberry tree beside the<br />

Linyanti Lagoon. At night the sound of the frogs<br />

is deafening and you often have a hippo near<br />

your tent.<br />

Whilst wild, the mobile camps are by no means<br />

uncomfortable. A full camp crew builds the<br />

camp which consists of large dome tents with<br />

camp beds and duvets. A small bedside table<br />

gives space for your book and torch. Basic en<br />

suite facilities are provided with a canvas basin<br />

of water, en suite bush loo and bucket shower,<br />

which will be filled with hot water when you<br />

return from game drives. A word of warning<br />

though – don’t leave your sponge bag outside<br />

the tent as hyenas can be rather partial to soap<br />

and toothpaste!<br />

Private departures<br />

If you are a family or travelling in a group of four<br />

or more it is often both cost-effective and great<br />

fun to take a private mobile safari across the<br />

country. The beauty of this is that you can tailor<br />

the trip exactly to your interests, staying in<br />

private wilderness spots across Botswana. You<br />

will have a private guide and vehicle as well as<br />

camp crew to erect camp, cook and look after<br />

you. There is nothing quite like having a tiny<br />

camp on a palm island in the middle of the<br />

Okavango all to yourself.<br />

A walking safari<br />

Zebra on the floodplains<br />

A typical mobile<br />

camping safari<br />

Days 1-3<br />

Days 4-5<br />

Days 6-8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Fly from Maun to the Xigera Reserve,<br />

Central Okavango Delta for three<br />

nights. Game viewing on foot and<br />

by mokoro.<br />

Fly from the Xigera Reserve to the<br />

Moremi Game Reserve for two nights.<br />

Game viewing in open 4x4s.<br />

Game drive to the Linyanti Reserve for<br />

three nights. Further time on safari.<br />

Game drive to the Chobe River, boat<br />

cruise on the Chobe River. Afternoon<br />

drive to Livingstone for one night.<br />

Morning trip to Victoria Falls. Your<br />

safari ends at lunchtime for onward<br />

arrangements.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 37


Elephant in the Chobe River<br />

with herds of both seeing mammoth proportions.<br />

Elephant numbers are estimated at 40,000 to<br />

60,000, so you are constantly surrounded by<br />

these gentle giants. In the dry season, thousands<br />

line the banks and cross the Chobe River, and<br />

boat trips at this time provide excellent<br />

photographic opportunities.<br />

Crocodile on the banks of the Chobe<br />

The Chobe National Park<br />

Encompassing an impressive 10,700 square<br />

kilometres of wilderness, the Chobe National<br />

Park stretches from the tip of Northern Botswana<br />

to the fringes of the Okavango Delta. It has a<br />

wide range of distinctive landscapes, from the<br />

emerald floodplains of the Chobe River to the<br />

sweeping grasslands of the Savuti Marsh and the<br />

skeletal leadwood trees of the Savuti Channel.<br />

In a region with such varied environments and<br />

habitats, there is a magnificent array of wildlife.<br />

A profusion of palatable grass species attracts a<br />

variety of herbivores, including wildebeest,<br />

impala, kudu, waterbuck, giraffe and tsessebe.<br />

The puku is found here, as is the endemic<br />

Chobe bushbuck. Predator sightings are good,<br />

with leopard, cheetah, wild dog and large prides<br />

of lion that hunt elephant. From servals to<br />

side-striped jackals, the list is endless. Chobe is<br />

famous for its elephant and buffalo populations,<br />

38<br />

CHOBE UNDER CANVAS,<br />

CHOBE NATIONAL PARK<br />

Chobe Under Canvas is a semi-permanent camp<br />

with five spacious walk-in tents, each with en suite<br />

bathroom facilities. While the accommodation at<br />

the camp is fairly simple, the service, quality of<br />

safari guiding and standard of food are absolutely<br />

superb and equal to those found at any of<br />

Botswana’s more luxurious permanent lodges.<br />

The camp is ideal for those seeking a return to<br />

the more traditional safari without compromising<br />

on quality. However camping is an adventurous<br />

way to experience Botswana and is not<br />

recommended for the faint-hearted!<br />

Chobe Under Canvas<br />

The viewing deck at Muchenje<br />

MUCHENJE SAFARI LODGE,<br />

CHOBE NATIONAL PARK<br />

Muchenje Safari Lodge is perched high on the<br />

forested escarpment overlooking the plains of<br />

western Chobe. The lodge accommodates 22<br />

guests in 11 thatched chalets, all sited on the<br />

escarpment edge with unique views. There is a<br />

pool built amongst natural rock formations which<br />

provides a perfect setting for chilling out during<br />

the heat of the day. Activities at Muchenje include<br />

walking safaris where you can learn more about<br />

the bush and study the behaviour of animals,<br />

plants and insects. Game drives are rewarding and<br />

the lunchtime river cruises are good opportunities<br />

for watching elephant, hippo, crocodiles and birds.


Brown hyena and pups Watching meerkats in the Makgadikgadi Bushmen<br />

Flying over the Makgadikgadi Pans<br />

The Makgadikgadi Pans,<br />

Kalahari<br />

The Makgadikgadi Pans are a place like no other.<br />

Mile upon mile of shimmering white salt pan<br />

stretches endlessly to the horizon, fringed with<br />

coarse grasses blowing in the wind, ancient<br />

baobabs reaching to the sky and vultures soaring<br />

on the thermals. There are prehistoric beaches,<br />

Stone Age remains and salty whirlwinds spinning<br />

over cracked earth. The pans are the relics of<br />

Africa’s ‘super-lake’ that covered the Kalahari<br />

several million years ago, and are littered with the<br />

fossils of the changing ecosystems that followed.<br />

Nowadays, the wildlife is both hardy and highly<br />

nomadic. Meerkat, mongooses, brown hyena,<br />

aardvark and aardwolf are present all year round.<br />

Secretary birds, ostrich and korhaans step through<br />

the grass and bateleurs soar overhead. When the<br />

rains arrive, a dramatic change takes place. Pink<br />

clouds of flamingo come to feed, herds of zebra<br />

and wildebeest are found on the savannah and<br />

the sound of frogs fills the air. There are only a<br />

few camps in the Makgadikgadi, and whether you<br />

stay in the dry or rainy season they all offer an<br />

experience that is unique and unforgettable.<br />

The mess tent at Jack’s Camp<br />

JACK’S CAMP,<br />

MAKGADIKGADI PANS<br />

Jack’s Camp has nine eclectic tents located on a<br />

small palm island near the Pans. With Persian<br />

rugs, antique chests inlaid with brass, four-poster<br />

beds and panelled bathrooms, the camp is one<br />

of a kind. The main dining tent has antique glass<br />

cabinets full of stone tools and fossils, there are<br />

photos of Bushmen, silver jugs of iced lime juice,<br />

and a library of old books. Activities from Jack’s<br />

are led both by guides and researchers. There’s<br />

the chance to sit surrounded by meerkats, walk<br />

with the Bushmen, explore by quad bike and lie<br />

on a salt pan watching the stars.<br />

CAMP KALAHARI,<br />

MAKGADIKGADI PANS<br />

Camp Kalahari is nestled amongst the acacias and<br />

mokolwane palms of Brown Hyena Island, on the<br />

edge of the Makgadikgadi Pans. The camp offers<br />

an excellent Makgadikgadi experience for those<br />

who want a bit of adventure without sacrificing<br />

comfort and style. The six simple meru tents have<br />

comfy beds, crisp cotton sheets and hot water<br />

bottles in the winter. The lack of electricity means<br />

that the camp retains a rustic edge. Activities<br />

include walking with Bushman trackers, exploring<br />

the pans on quad bikes and visiting the famous<br />

Chapman’s Baobab. You can also meet the<br />

habituated meerkats and enjoy sleeping out<br />

under the stars.<br />

Camp Kalahari<br />

www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 39


Game viewing in the Kalahari<br />

The Central Kalahari<br />

Game Reserve<br />

The Central Kalahari Game Reserve is one of<br />

the world’s largest. It dominates the centre of<br />

Botswana and is Africa at its most remote and<br />

esoteric; a vast sand sheet punctuated by a few<br />

huge open plains, occasional salt pans, and fossil<br />

remains on ancient riverbeds. The Kalahari comes<br />

into its own during the rains from January to<br />

March. At this time the fresh grass attracts<br />

hundreds of migratory grazers such as springbok,<br />

zebra and wildebeest. Predators such as lion,<br />

cheetah, leopard and jackal follow. On rare<br />

occasions, wild dog and the secretive brown<br />

hyena are also observed.<br />

Birdlife is varied, with the world’s heaviest flying<br />

bird, the kori bustard, frequently spotted and the<br />

amusingly coiffed secretary birds regularly seen<br />

strutting across the plains. Later in the year the<br />

animals tend to move away from the open valley<br />

Tau Pan Camp<br />

40<br />

Black backed jackals<br />

areas, making game viewing more challenging.<br />

However, it is at this time of year that you<br />

experience the true wilderness of the Central<br />

Kalahari, with other visitors few and far between.<br />

TAU PAN CAMP, CENTRAL<br />

KALAHARI GAME RESERVE<br />

Tau Pan Camp has eight custom built desert<br />

chalets, constructed under thatch in order to<br />

remain cool even during the heat of the day. The<br />

rooms are large and spacious, positioned on a<br />

ridge so that they catch the breeze and have<br />

magnificent views down to the man-made<br />

waterhole and Tau Pan beyond. Each room<br />

comes with either a twin or double bed, an<br />

indoor and outdoor shower and outside deck<br />

with comfy chairs. The camp also has a small<br />

swimming pool and a lovely central lodge area<br />

where you will generally sit down with your<br />

fellow guests and enjoy communal dining at the<br />

end of an adventurous day.<br />

KALAHARI PLAINS CAMP,<br />

CENTRAL KALAHARI GAME RESERVE<br />

Kalahari Plains Camp is set in the remote<br />

northern sector of the Central Kalahari Game<br />

Reserve. There are ten en suite tents with<br />

outstanding views across open grassy plains,<br />

vegetated dunes and seasonal pans. Each tent is<br />

comfortably furnished inside and has a unique<br />

rooftop sleeping platform. With no light pollution<br />

the night skies in the Kalahari are stunning, so you<br />

can lie in a cosy bed looking at the stars of the<br />

Southern Cross and Milky Way above you.<br />

Kalahari Plains Camp<br />

Gemsbok on the plains


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Botswana specialists to<br />

start planning your itinerary.<br />

NAMIBIA<br />

Shinde<br />

Reserve<br />

Nxabega<br />

Reserve<br />

Kasane Livingstone<br />

Victoria Falls<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

Moremi Game Reserve<br />

Maun<br />

NAMIBIA<br />

Kwara<br />

Reserve<br />

Kwando Reserve<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

Maun<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 530<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

Getting around<br />

Central Kalahari Game Reserve<br />

There are two main ways to get around<br />

Botswana; flying by light aircraft or travelling in a<br />

4x4 on a mobile safari. There are a number of<br />

light aircraft flights originating in Maun and Kasane<br />

and zipping to, from and between Botswana’s<br />

camps. Flights between camps tend to be in the<br />

middle of the day meaning you can enjoy an early<br />

morning game drive, fly to your next camp and<br />

be there in time for a cup of tea and evening<br />

game drive. If flying is not your thing then you can<br />

either take road transfers to the more accessible<br />

parks such as Chobe or take a private or shared<br />

mobile safari. These use 4x4s to navigate<br />

Botswana’s sandy tracks and each journey is a<br />

game drive in itself. Botswana is easy to combine<br />

with a trip to the Victoria Falls.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Botswana has a subtropical desert climate<br />

characterised by low rainfall and wide<br />

temperature fluctuations between day and night.<br />

It has a dry season from May to October and a<br />

rainy season from November to April. When<br />

planning a trip to the Okavango Delta, flood<br />

levels must be considered. The floods tend to<br />

arrive in June creating flooded plains, deeper<br />

lagoons and hundreds of channels. The waters<br />

recede around November and more dry land is<br />

exposed. These affect some boating activities at<br />

camps. Our specialists can advise you on the best<br />

camps to go to during the different seasons of the<br />

year.<br />

Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 13.5 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Botswana on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Classic Okavango<br />

This trip is ideal for those who want to enjoy<br />

some of Africa’s best game viewing. You will have<br />

the chance to stay deep within the Okavango<br />

Delta as well as on its fringes. Mokoro trips are<br />

the highlight of the Central Okavango as you can<br />

glide down peaceful channels and into lagoons.<br />

The dry land area of the Delta fringes provide a<br />

total contrast and you’ll enjoy drives in search of<br />

big game. Lion, elephant and buffalo abound, as do<br />

many other species. The trip ends with a couple<br />

of nights at Victoria Falls, one of the natural<br />

wonders of the world and a perfect end to an<br />

exciting safari.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-3<br />

Days 4-5<br />

Days 6-8<br />

Days 9-10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Fly from the UK to Maun via<br />

Johannesburg.<br />

Arrive in Maun and fly to the<br />

Northern Fringes of the Okavango<br />

Delta for two nights at Camp Okuti.<br />

Enjoy game drives, boat and<br />

mokoro trips.<br />

Fly to the Nxabega Reserve for two<br />

nights at Kanana Camp. Enjoy game<br />

drives and boat trips.<br />

Fly to the Shinde Reserve for three<br />

nights at Shinde Camp. Further time<br />

on safari.<br />

Light aircraft flight to Livingstone for<br />

two nights at Tongabezi Lodge.<br />

Explore the Victoria Falls, visit local<br />

village and take boat trips on the<br />

Zambezi River.<br />

Fly from Livingstone to the UK via<br />

Johannesburg.<br />

Arrive in the UK in the early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

A week on the beach is a great way to end a<br />

safari, and Botswana combines well with the<br />

Quirimba Archipelago in Northern Mozambique.<br />

This string of coral islands has hidden coves and<br />

soft sandy beaches where green turtles nest. You<br />

could stay on a private island with nothing more<br />

to do than relax on the sand or could choose to<br />

explore Ibo Island and wander in its ruined Swahili<br />

city. With just a handful of characterful lodges and<br />

excellent seafood cuisine, these islands are ideal<br />

for a week of luxury and total relaxation.<br />

Emerald Season Explorer<br />

This trip is tailored to be at its best during<br />

Botswana’s green season from November through<br />

to March. It starts in the Central Kalahari which<br />

comes to life at this time of year with zebra<br />

migrating into the area, followed by lion, hyena and<br />

leopard. From here you head into the Delta to an<br />

area of water and dry land. You can explore rivers<br />

and lagoons by boat and the plains in open 4x4s.<br />

The trip ends in the Linyanti region, an area<br />

renowned for large elephant herds and packs of<br />

wild dog. All the camps have been chosen for their<br />

excellent guides, meaning that you will get the<br />

absolute maximum out of your safari.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-4<br />

Days 5-7<br />

Days 8-10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Fly from the UK to Maun via<br />

Johannesburg.<br />

Arrive in Maun and fly to the Central<br />

Kalahari Game Reserve for three<br />

nights at Tau Camp. Enjoy game<br />

drives and walking safaris.<br />

Fly to the Kwara Reserve for three<br />

nights at Kwara Camp. Further time<br />

on safari.<br />

Fly to the Kwando Reserve for three<br />

nights at Lebala Camp. Enjoy game<br />

viewing in open 4x4s.<br />

Fly to Maun and fly to the UK via<br />

Johannesburg.<br />

Arrive in the UK in the early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

A good way to start a trip to Botswana is with<br />

a few nights at Victoria Falls. After a long<br />

international flight there is nothing nicer than<br />

arriving in Livingstone and going straight to a<br />

small lodge on the banks of the Zambezi River.<br />

By lunchtime you can be enjoying a meal with the<br />

sounds of the hippos in the river. You can enjoy<br />

sunset boat trips, a morning visit to the Victoria<br />

Falls and perhaps even take a picnic to an island in<br />

the middle of the river. After a couple of nights of<br />

real relaxation you can head off, fully refreshed,<br />

for your safari.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/botswana ● 01993 838 530 ● Botswana 41


Zambia<br />

Chattering and throwing palmnuts onto<br />

the roof of your cottage, the monkeys<br />

start your day before the sun does. Emerging<br />

into the misty morning, a cup of coffee in<br />

hand, you watch as the sun rises over a<br />

broad snaking river. A breeding herd of<br />

elephant soundlessly descends the dusty bank<br />

to drink. The sun turns the glassy water<br />

pink, crocodiles stir and a fish eagle’s screech<br />

pierces the air. Welcome to Zambia – you<br />

have arrived in the wild heart of Africa.<br />

Zambia is the home of the walking safari,<br />

and its prolific game is especially<br />

exhilarating when encountered on foot.<br />

Elephant, lion, wild dog, spotted hyena,<br />

giraffe and puku are just some of the game<br />

you will see. Beware: once you’ve approached<br />

a hundred-strong herd of buffalo on foot,<br />

game-viewing from a vehicle may never<br />

give quite the same thrill. At night there are<br />

drives to search for leopard, the spotlight<br />

seeking the reflection of feline eyes in the<br />

undergrowth. From the tree-climbing lions<br />

of the Busanga Plains to the hundred-strong<br />

hippo pods of the South Luangwa, Zambia<br />

is untamed, little-explored and as wild as<br />

it has ever been.<br />

42


<strong>Audley</strong> in Zambia<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

3<br />

8<br />

7<br />

1<br />

2<br />

Zambia is one of our favourite countries<br />

in Southern Africa and our extensive<br />

knowledge of it comes from many years of<br />

travelling and operating safaris in the region.<br />

Our chosen camps are small and run by<br />

friendly and capable Zambians whose<br />

welcome is always warm. They are also<br />

delightfully close to nature – you might have<br />

a vervet monkey on the roof of your banda<br />

or a hippo grazing the lodge lawn at night.<br />

The country’s main game areas; the Luangwa<br />

Valley, Lower Zambezi and Kafue, are all<br />

reached by a good network of flights.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>lers usually spend time in one or two<br />

areas to enjoy the contrasting scenery and<br />

game. There are several good trip extension<br />

options: a few days in Livingstone to see the<br />

Victoria Falls, or Lake Malawi is a short flight<br />

away. Zambia is easy to travel around but<br />

don’t let this persuade you that it is a tame<br />

country – it is one of the wildest in<br />

southern Africa.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Dusk at Busanga Bushcamp<br />

1 South Luangwa<br />

National Park<br />

The home of the walking safari<br />

and one of the best parks in<br />

Africa for leopard sightings.<br />

2<br />

North Luangwa<br />

National Park<br />

5 Busanga Plains<br />

Vast floodplains and the<br />

centrepiece of the Kafue. Home<br />

to plains game, tree climbing<br />

lions and cheetah.<br />

6 Livingstone<br />

Livingstone offers beautiful<br />

riverside lodges from which to<br />

see the Victoria Falls.<br />

7 Shiwa Ng’andu<br />

An incongruous stately home<br />

built in the remote north by<br />

eccentric Englishman Stewart<br />

Gore Browne.<br />

African hoopoe<br />

8 Bangweulu Wetlands<br />

Seasonally flooded grass plains<br />

that support a rich diversity of<br />

water birds. Shoebill stork and<br />

black lechwe are found here.<br />

In the national parks, a lodge and a handful<br />

of satellite bushcamps are usually owned by<br />

one safari operator, often a family business.<br />

The lodge will have around six rooms and is<br />

often a good place in which to start your<br />

safari. The satellite bush camps tend to be in<br />

remote areas and focus on walking safaris.<br />

Typically, they have three simple chalets<br />

made of reed and thatch. Overlooking rivers<br />

or waterholes, the dining room might be<br />

under a sausage tree and the open air<br />

bathrooms visited by a tree frog or two.<br />

All accommodation is unfenced so it’s<br />

common for wildlife to wander through<br />

camp. Livingstone’s beautiful riverside lodges<br />

are the ideal place in which to start or end<br />

a safari; from here you can enjoy Victoria<br />

Falls and fall asleep to the sound of hippos<br />

grunting in the water.<br />

A wild park with only two camps<br />

and numerous lion and buffalo,<br />

excellent for walking safaris.<br />

Find out more<br />

3 Lower Zambezi<br />

National Park<br />

One of Africa’s most scenic<br />

wildlife areas, concentrated<br />

around the Zambezi River. The<br />

park supports high densities of<br />

big game.<br />

4 Kafue National Park<br />

A huge wilderness encompassing<br />

rivers, picturesque woodland and<br />

open floodplains.<br />

Elephant in the Lower Zambezi<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Zambia, please<br />

see page 55.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Zambia<br />

specialists 01993 838 505<br />

Zambia 43


Watching elephant on a walking safari<br />

South Luangwa National Park<br />

The South Luangwa National Park is tropical, wild<br />

and beautiful. Situated in a wide rift valley, the<br />

park is flanked by the Muchinga escarpment to<br />

the west and the meandering Luangwa River to<br />

the east. Its lush and diverse vegetation is home<br />

to a wide variety of game and rich birdlife. Much<br />

of the game is found near the river, with herds of<br />

elephant and buffalo descending the banks to<br />

drink. Large crocodiles laze on sandbanks and at<br />

dusk hundreds of hippo leave their pools and<br />

lumber up the banks to graze. Impala and puku<br />

are common and Thornicroft’s giraffe can be seen<br />

in the forests. Cookson’s wildebeest, Crawshay’s<br />

zebra, waterbuck, bushbuck, grysbok and oribi are<br />

also found. Predators abound, with lion and<br />

spotted hyena common, while the leopards are<br />

always a highlight. Finally, there are over 400<br />

species of bird, with specialities including flocks of<br />

crowned cranes, colonies of carmine bee-eaters<br />

and a breeding colony of yellowbilled stork.<br />

Walking safaris are a speciality in the Luangwa.<br />

Accompanied by guides and scouts, walks explore<br />

the riverbanks and pretty dambos with their<br />

green Nile cabbage and crocodiles. There are<br />

also day and night drives in open 4x4s.<br />

KAPANI LODGE, SOUTH<br />

LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Kapani Lodge is a welcoming lodge located in a<br />

wildlife area adjacent to the South Luangwa<br />

National Park. It has six cottages overlooking a<br />

pretty lagoon which attracts a wide variety of<br />

game. With shady gardens, a small pool and<br />

chattering vervet monkeys, it’s a perfect start to<br />

a safari. Walks and drives in the park are led by<br />

experienced guides. Kapani works well in<br />

combination with a few of its satellite bushcamps<br />

(Luwi, Nsolo and Kakuli), which are located<br />

deep within the park.<br />

LUWI, NSOLO AND KAKULI<br />

BUSHCAMPS, SOUTH LUANGWA<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

These three bushcamps are situated along the<br />

Luwi and Luangwa rivers and you can ramble<br />

from one to the other on a guided walk. Luwi is<br />

tiny and delightful, with four simple reed rooms<br />

under mahogany trees. Nsolo has beautiful raised<br />

chalets with polished wooden floors and open<br />

air bathrooms. Finally, Kakuli overlooks the<br />

confluence of the Luwi and Luangwa rivers and<br />

a noisy pod of hippos in the water below.<br />

Dining at Nsolo Bushcamp<br />

44<br />

MCHENJA BUSHCAMP, SOUTH<br />

LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Mchenja Bushcamp stands in an ancient ebony<br />

grove – a favourite of baboons – on the banks<br />

of the Luangwa. It is one of the most picturesque<br />

sites in the park for a camp. There are four<br />

spacious tents, with polished wooden floors, large<br />

decks and en suite bathrooms. Activities from<br />

camp include walking safaris and game drives.


Young male lion in the Luangwa<br />

Watching puku on a game drive<br />

Leopard in the South Luangwa<br />

CHAMILANDU BUSHCAMP,<br />

SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Chamilandu is situated in a remote spot on the<br />

Luangwa River. The décor of the two-metre<br />

high tree house chalets is a tasteful blend of<br />

wrought iron and brass. Open to a 180° vista,<br />

the front of each tree house chalet provides the<br />

frame for all of the Luangwa Valley’s wildlife, and<br />

the four poster beds enjoy a bird’s eye view over<br />

the waters of the Luangwa River. A series of<br />

seven ox-bow lagoons around Chamilandu yield<br />

diverse habitats and attract abundant wildlife.<br />

This is a wonderful place to explore both on<br />

foot and in 4x4s.<br />

KAPAMBA BUSHCAMP, SOUTH<br />

LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Kapamba Bushcamp is a beautiful camp with<br />

views over the Kapamba River. There are four<br />

stone and thatch chalets, which are open on one<br />

side allowing you to step out into the bush from<br />

your bedroom. Each chalet has an en suite<br />

bathroom with large tub. At night your bathroom<br />

is sometimes shared by a couple of small frogs,<br />

who will sit and watch you clean your teeth!<br />

There is a large deck in the centre of camp where<br />

you can sit and enjoy breakfast in the sun and<br />

campfires in the evening.<br />

Chamilandu Bushcamp<br />

CHINDENI BUSHCAMP, SOUTH<br />

LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Chindeni has one of the most stunning locations<br />

in the South Luangwa, nestled on the apex of a<br />

permanent oxbow lagoon in the shadow of the<br />

magnificent Nchindeni Hills. Watching the<br />

sunrise over the hills in the morning is a<br />

wonderful way to start the day. Sitting on<br />

wooden decking, Chindeni’s four en suite tents<br />

have raised verandas, ideal platforms from which<br />

to view the resident game. Chindeni is only six<br />

kilometres from one of its sister camps,<br />

Bilimungwe, so you can enjoy an early morning<br />

walk between the two.<br />

KUYENDA BUSHCAMP, SOUTH<br />

LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Kuyenda sits on the banks of the Manzi River.<br />

The accommodation consists of three rondavels<br />

made entirely of local material – reed, thatch and<br />

wood. The chalets are rustic but comfortable and<br />

offer an authentic bush home. En suite bathrooms<br />

have bucket showers and guests can order hot<br />

water in advance – this is a true safari experience.<br />

Kuyenda is in a good walking area and some<br />

walks are guided by Phil Berry, who has<br />

unmatched knowledge of the Luangwa Valley,<br />

having spent the last 30 years here.<br />

Kapamba Bushcamp<br />

www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 45


Lioness beside the Luangwa River<br />

TAFIKA CAMP, SOUTH LUANGWA<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Tafika Camp stands on high banks above the<br />

Luangwa River. Owned by John and Carol<br />

Coppinger, it prides itself on having some of the<br />

most experienced guides in the park. The camp<br />

itself is comfortable, with five large bungalows.<br />

Once across the river, you are in a pristine wildlife<br />

area of the park where there are no roads or<br />

other camps, so it is well suited to walking safaris.<br />

John owns a microlight and will take guests up<br />

into the air at dawn. Skimming low over the<br />

Luangwa River and watching crocodile splash into<br />

the water is an exhilarating experience. Tafika<br />

combines well with a walking safari to its satellite<br />

bushcamps, Chikoko and Crocodile.<br />

LION CAMP, SOUTH LUANGWA<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Lion Camp is located in an area away from other<br />

camps so guests enjoy a private and wild safari<br />

experience. The camp overlooks a lagoon and is<br />

unfenced so it is not unusual for antelope,<br />

elephant and hippo to wander through the camp<br />

during the day. Linked by raised wooden<br />

walkways are nine luxurious canvas and thatch<br />

chalets. The centre of camp has a large deck<br />

where dinner is often eaten under the stars. It is<br />

one of the few camps in the park to have a small<br />

pool, very welcome in the hot summer months.<br />

A chalet at Tafika<br />

NKWALI CAMP, SOUTH<br />

LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Nkwali Camp is located in an area of ebony<br />

woodland and open grass plains. Elephant often<br />

cross the Luangwa River near to the lodge and<br />

crocodiles can be seen lazing on the sandbanks.<br />

Nkwali has six luxurious chalets overlooking the<br />

river and a large bar built around an ebony tree.<br />

Dining is often outside under a tree, and<br />

sometimes on a sandbank in the middle of the<br />

river! Nkwali combines well with its sister camps<br />

Tena Tena and Nsefu.<br />

Mobile walking safaris<br />

Zambia is renowned for its walking<br />

safaris, which were pioneered in the<br />

Luangwa Valley. There are two ways to<br />

enjoy walking safaris – either on morning<br />

and afternoon rambles out and back to<br />

the same camp or on a three or four<br />

day dedicated walking trail.<br />

One of our favourite places to start a<br />

three day walking trail is Tafika Camp.<br />

On a typical trail you would set out<br />

from Tafika for a morning’s walk through<br />

a pristine wilderness area to the first<br />

camp, Crocodile Camp, only accessible<br />

on foot. A day or so can be spent at<br />

Crocodile before taking a morning walk<br />

to Chikoko Bushcamp. After a couple of<br />

nights at Chikoko, you can then enjoy a<br />

walk back to Tafika.<br />

The beauty of this trail is that it can be<br />

tailored to your interests and pace,<br />

whether you enjoy long or short walks,<br />

or a mixture of both. The camps are<br />

delightful with simple reed and thatch<br />

chalets and hot bucket showers. You will<br />

dine under sausage trees, shower under<br />

the stars and sit around campfires.<br />

46<br />

The campfire at Lion Camp


Lion pride<br />

Viewing buffalo on a walking safari<br />

Carmine bee-eaters<br />

North Luangwa National Park<br />

The North Luangwa is a wild park with virtually<br />

no roads and thus the focus is on walking safaris.<br />

The small Mwaleshi River runs through the park,<br />

with clear shallow waters and low banks, perfect<br />

for rambling along. Game gravitates towards the<br />

river, particularly in the dry season when it is<br />

common to see buffalo, lion and hyena in healthy<br />

numbers by the water. There are some<br />

particularly pretty dambos covered in brilliant<br />

Nile cabbage with a hippo or two only visible by<br />

their flickering ears. A short flight from the South<br />

Luangwa, we recommend adding this park onto<br />

the end of a safari there and suggest that you<br />

stay at least four days to fully explore this<br />

peaceful wilderness.<br />

Walking along the Mwaleshi River<br />

MWALESHI CAMP, NORTH<br />

LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Mwaleshi Camp is one of our favourite camps in<br />

Africa. Taking a maximum of six guests, its reed<br />

chalets overlook the Mwaleshi River. Early<br />

mornings and evenings are spent walking along<br />

the banks of the river, looking at everything from<br />

elephant-shrew tracks to lions, determined dung<br />

beetles to exquisite seed pods. In the heat of the<br />

day it is possible to paddle in the clear, shallow<br />

river in front of camp, which has tiny silver fish<br />

but apparently no crocodiles!<br />

Shiwa Ng’andu House<br />

Shiwa Ng’andu<br />

Shiwa Ng’andu is an old English manor<br />

house, built deep in the African bush.<br />

A flight from the South Luangwa, it is<br />

remote but well worth making the<br />

journey for. Perfect avenues of<br />

eucalyptus lead to a graceful stately<br />

home with sweeping staircases, panelled<br />

libraries, Persian rugs, muskets, chests<br />

and a clock tower topping the slate tiled<br />

roof. Built by Sir Stewart Gore Browne<br />

in the early 20th century and brought to<br />

public attention by Christina Lamb’s<br />

book ‘The Africa House’, it is steeped in<br />

history and a living memorial to the life<br />

and work of Sir Stewart. A stay here<br />

amply rewards the intrepid traveller and<br />

could not provide more of a contrast<br />

with Zambia’s safari camps.<br />

Crawshay’s zebra<br />

Sundown at Mwaleshi<br />

www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 47


Observing wild dog on a game drive<br />

The Lower Zambezi<br />

National Park<br />

Once over the Zambezi escarpment, your pilot<br />

will begin to lower the aeroplane and the vast rift<br />

valley of the Lower Zambezi will unfold before<br />

you, with curving oxbow lagoons and the sandy<br />

waters of the great Zambezi River. Pods of hippo<br />

litter the water, clumped herds of buffalo can be<br />

seen on the floodplains, and elephant move, ears<br />

flapping and trunks up, through the trees and<br />

away from the sound of the plane. With its<br />

floodplains, grasslands and tall forests, the Lower<br />

Zambezi Valley supports fantastic game densities.<br />

Impala are everywhere and kudu, eland,<br />

waterbuck, zebra and wildebeest are also<br />

common. Elephant are often seen swimming the<br />

Zambezi River to feed on the grassy islands<br />

where buffalo graze. The sandy river banks are<br />

home to iridescent carmine bee-eater colonies<br />

while kingfishers and African skimmers flit above<br />

Breakfast at Chongwe River Camp<br />

48<br />

the waters. Predators include leopard, large prides<br />

of lion and packs of wild dog. From walking safaris<br />

to drives, boating and fishing, the Zambezi has so<br />

much to offer that we recommend a stay of at<br />

least three days to explore it fully.<br />

CHONGWE RIVER CAMP,<br />

LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK<br />

Chongwe River Camp is set under a canopy of<br />

winterthorn acacias on the confluence of the<br />

Chongwe and Zambezi Rivers. The nine tents<br />

all face the river and are cool and comfortable.<br />

A pod of hippos occupy the river in front of the<br />

lodge and crocodiles often laze on the opposite<br />

riverbank alongside storks, herons and geese.<br />

Activities from camp include game drives, walking<br />

safaris, boat trips, canoeing and tiger fishing.<br />

SAUSAGE TREE CAMP,<br />

LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK<br />

Sausage Tree Camp is a luxurious camp perched<br />

on a high sandy bank where bee-eaters nest.<br />

There are seven stylish tents which have large<br />

beds, antique telephones (the network extends<br />

as far as the bar) and open air bathrooms.<br />

There is an airy living room with lots of books<br />

and a dining room where excellent meals are<br />

served. Activities from camp include game drives,<br />

walking safaris and boat trips and Sausage Tree<br />

also operates a canoe trail up the Zambezi River.<br />

Canoeing by day and sleeping on islands by night<br />

is an exciting way to experience the wildlife.<br />

The honeymoon suite at Sausage Tree Camp<br />

OLD MONDORO, LOWER ZAMBEZI<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Old Mondoro is small and simple, surrounded by<br />

good walking country, making it the ideal camp<br />

from which to enjoy walks as well as game drives.<br />

There are four chalets with double beds, en suite<br />

bathrooms and timber decks outside. At night,<br />

lanterns lead from the chalets to the dining room,<br />

where you can sit around the fire and discuss the<br />

day’s events. Set deep in the park, the camp is<br />

surrounded by excellent game densities, making<br />

drives, walks and boat trips very rewarding.<br />

Old Mondoro


Waterbuck in Mana Pools National Park<br />

Young leopard<br />

Canoe safari in Mana Pools<br />

The pool at Rukomechi Camp<br />

Mana Pools, Zimbabwe<br />

Directly across the river from the Lower Zambezi<br />

National Park is Mana Pools in Zimbabwe.<br />

Reached by a three hour road and boat transfer<br />

from Lusaka or via a short flight, this is a great<br />

alternative to a safari in the Lower Zambezi. In its<br />

heyday, Mana was one of the most sought after<br />

and exclusive parks in Zimbabwe, and as few<br />

visitors have travelled there in the last ten years,<br />

the park remains unchanged. The presence of<br />

scouts and rangers has meant that it has been<br />

unaffected by poaching, and game densities are<br />

as high as they’ve ever been. Visitors are now<br />

returning to the park, accessing it from the<br />

Zambian side and enjoying one of Southern<br />

Africa’s premier wildlife destinations, with the<br />

added bonus of having to share it with few<br />

other visitors.<br />

Mana Pools covers 2,000 square kilometres of<br />

total wilderness, much of it with no roads, so it is<br />

ideal for exploration on foot. This stretch of the<br />

Zambezi River is famous for its four pools: Main,<br />

Chine, Long and Chisambuk, which are remnants<br />

of channels of the river which stopped flowing<br />

years ago. These, and smaller seasonal pools<br />

dotted further inland, hold water all year round,<br />

drawing a wide variety of game. The area is<br />

renowned for having large numbers of elephant,<br />

buffalo, hippo and eland. Predators such as lion,<br />

leopard and wild dog are regularly sighted and the<br />

birdlife is superb. There are only a couple of small<br />

camps in the park as well as a number of guided<br />

canoe trails. It is an excellent addition to a trip to<br />

Zambia and suited to those looking for a pure<br />

safari experience.<br />

Tents on a Mana canoe trail<br />

Rukomechi Camp<br />

RUCKOMECHI CAMP,<br />

MANA POOLS<br />

Ruckomechi Camp sits in a grove of acacia and<br />

mahogany trees on the banks of the Zambezi<br />

River. There are ten spacious tents, all with<br />

double or twin beds and en suite bathrooms with<br />

hot showers. The central dining and lounge areas<br />

face the Zambezi escarpment and a separate<br />

deck has an infinity pool for the hot afternoons<br />

and a cushion-strewn star gazing deck for night.<br />

Activities from the camp include game drives,<br />

boat trips and walking safaris, although it is often<br />

unnecessary to leave the camp to see game, as<br />

elephant frequently wander in to snack on the<br />

fruit of the albida trees.<br />

MANA CANOE TRAIL,<br />

MANA POOLS<br />

This three night canoe trail explores one of the<br />

most beautiful stretches of the Zambezi River.<br />

The whole trail covers a distance of 65<br />

kilometres, and each day you’ll canoe a stretch<br />

of river before stopping for lunch on an island<br />

or sandbank. There is the chance to explore the<br />

park on foot in the afternoon before camping<br />

each night on the banks of the river. The trail is<br />

led by an experienced guide and support vehicles<br />

and staff set up camp each day on your arrival.<br />

It is an ideal trip for the fit and adventurous<br />

traveller who wants to encounter wildlife from<br />

close quarters.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 49


Dawn on the Busanga Plains<br />

zebra, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, blue wildebeest,<br />

oribi and sable antelope. Cheetah stalk through<br />

the stubbly grass and prides of lion relax along<br />

the branches of fig trees. With clouds of open<br />

billed storks overhead, you are surrounded by<br />

wildlife. This variety of environments can be<br />

explored on walking safaris, boat trips and day<br />

and night game drives.<br />

Lufupa River Lodge<br />

The Kafue National Park<br />

At over 22,000 square kilometres, the Kafue<br />

National Park is a huge magical wilderness. It has<br />

tropical rivers filled with hippo, vast floodplains<br />

with herds of grazers, and twisted fig trees among<br />

whose branches lions are found. With few<br />

visitors, it is wild and untamed. In the north, the<br />

Lufupa and Lunga Rivers twist and turn, and<br />

boating along these you will see the corrugated<br />

backs of crocodiles gliding silently under<br />

overhanging trees. Elephant come to the small<br />

sandy beaches to drink along with bushbuck,<br />

defassa waterbuck, eland and more. Deep in the<br />

park, the Busanga Plains are a highlight. Seasonal<br />

floodplains, these immense grasslands are only<br />

accessible from June to October. Here the new<br />

shoots attract large herds of puku, red lechwe,<br />

LUFUPA RIVER LODGE, KAFUE<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Situated on the banks of the Lunga River, this<br />

small lodge is welcoming and comfortable with<br />

twelve canvas chalets looking out onto the water.<br />

There’s a small pool and bar deck on stilts<br />

above the water – perfect for sundowners in<br />

the warm evenings. Lufupa offers a variety of<br />

activities including boat trips, walks, and day and<br />

night drives.<br />

BUSANGA BUSHCAMP, KAFUE<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Busanga Bushcamp sits on a fig tree island on the<br />

Busanga Plains. The four tented rooms have gauze<br />

netting walls permitting fabulous views over the<br />

Plains. There are en suite open air bathrooms<br />

which allow you to shower either with the sun<br />

beating down on your back or under the stars.<br />

Dining is under canvas and there’s always a<br />

campfire in the evenings. Activities focus on day<br />

and night drives on the Busanga Plains as well as<br />

hot air ballooning.<br />

Hot air ballooning over the Busanga Plains<br />

Hot air ballooning<br />

A fascinating way to experience the<br />

Busanga Plains is from the basket of a hot<br />

air balloon. You will take off before dawn<br />

and rise up into the air with the sun.<br />

The balloon will float where the wind<br />

takes it – over grasslands, fig tree islands,<br />

rivers and wetlands. Wildlife looks<br />

different when viewed from above –<br />

you can see birds roosting at the tops of<br />

trees, the patterns of herds on the plains<br />

and the backs of hippos and crocodiles in<br />

the water. Accompanied by the mist that<br />

often rises off the plains in the early<br />

morning, these trips are visually stunning<br />

and excellent for keen photographers.<br />

On landing, a champagne breakfast is<br />

served before a leisurely game drive<br />

back to camp.<br />

50


Zambia’s safari houses<br />

Elephant in front of the Luangwa House<br />

The concept of the safari house, now popular<br />

across Africa, was pioneered in Zambia. The<br />

country has a number of beautiful houses, all<br />

built in the middle of the bush, with spacious<br />

living areas, characterful bedrooms and<br />

luxurious bathrooms. On stepping out through<br />

the front door, however, you might encounter<br />

puku on the lawn or an elephant drinking from<br />

the swimming pool.<br />

These luxurious houses are booked exclusively<br />

and are ideal for small groups. Luangwa House<br />

and Robin’s House are located in the heart of<br />

the South Luangwa. Chongwe River House<br />

and Kigelia House are located in the Lower<br />

Zambezi and Tangala House is close to<br />

Livingstone, on the banks of the Zambezi River<br />

and near a rather noisy pod of hippos.<br />

The safari houses are ideal for families,<br />

which the Zambians welcome with open arms.<br />

The houses come complete with guides and<br />

activities that can be tailored to each specific<br />

family. Game drives can be enjoyed by<br />

parents and children together, or the children<br />

can enjoy their own special safari programme.<br />

There is a range of activities for young guests,<br />

from walking out to collect seed pods to<br />

tracking lessons. For younger children, the<br />

kitchen and gardens are a highlight and they<br />

can bake cookies, collect hens’ eggs and<br />

pick pineapples.<br />

Chongwe River House<br />

CHONGWE RIVER HOUSE,<br />

LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARK<br />

Chongwe River House has a secluded setting<br />

on the banks of the Chongwe River. The house<br />

has furniture made from winterhorn trees and<br />

its ceiling contains pebbles from the Chongwe<br />

River. The four bedrooms have spectacular<br />

views, and the en suite bathrooms have taps<br />

carved from bone. Outside there is a small<br />

pool and the lawn is ideal for al fresco dining.<br />

LUANGWA HOUSE, SOUTH<br />

LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

The Luangwa House overlooks a seasonal<br />

lagoon, frequented by elephant and giraffe. It is<br />

built with ancient leadwood trees, stone and<br />

thatch. There are four bedrooms, two upstairs<br />

and two downstairs. The centre of the house is<br />

dominated by a stunning open plan living room<br />

with views out to the waterhole. Outside there<br />

is a plunge pool and a walkway out to a<br />

viewing deck above the waterhole. In the dry<br />

season this is a particularly exciting place to sit,<br />

as herds of elephant come to drink.<br />

ROBIN’S HOUSE, SOUTH<br />

LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Robin’s House is situated on the banks of the<br />

Luangwa River and shaded by ebony trees.<br />

Stone steps lead up into a cool central living<br />

room with squashy sofas and views of the<br />

river. The living room has two bedrooms<br />

leading off it, each with an en suite bathroom<br />

with shower and bathtub. A short walk away<br />

from the house there is a pool that is shared<br />

with nearby Nkwali Camp. The house comes<br />

with its own staff, including a private chef<br />

and a guide.<br />

Robin’s House<br />

A bedroom in Luangwa House<br />

www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 51


Victoria Falls<br />

Livingstone & Victoria Falls<br />

One of the natural wonders of the world,<br />

Victoria Falls is known as the ‘smoke that<br />

thunders’ in the local language. It is an apt name<br />

given the thundering roar that resounds as the<br />

sparkling Zambezi River pours great cascades of<br />

white water over the lip of the Falls. Walking<br />

along little paths to view this phenomenon of<br />

nature, you see trumpeter hornbills dart out from<br />

dripping trees to fly across the water. Vervet<br />

monkeys and baboons chatter and a rainbow<br />

forms across the spray when the sun comes out.<br />

There are excellent views from the Zambian side,<br />

where you can also cross Knife Edge Bridge to an<br />

island surrounded by water. Ten kilometres from<br />

the Victoria Falls, Livingstone town has sprung to<br />

life with lots of small guesthouses, lively markets<br />

and operators offering every possible activity<br />

from helicopter rides to exhilarating whitewater<br />

rafting trips and gentle boat cruises on the<br />

Zambezi. We recommend staying outside the<br />

A chalet at Waterberry<br />

52<br />

town in one of the quiet lodges on the Zambezi<br />

River, from where you can visit the Victoria Falls<br />

as well as go on sunset boat trips, walks and visits<br />

to village markets.<br />

TONGABEZI LODGE & SINDABEZI<br />

ISLAND CAMP, LIVINGSTONE<br />

Tongabezi is situated on the banks of the Zambezi<br />

River. Rooms are large with polished stone floors,<br />

cream fabrics and en suite bathrooms with<br />

Victorian baths and shining brass taps. There’s a<br />

pool built into the rocks and sunloungers in the<br />

shade. Tongabezi combines well with a stay at its<br />

sister camp, Sindabezi. Sitting on a little island in<br />

the middle of the river, Sindabezi is a tranquil spot<br />

with white fronted bee-eaters flitting from the<br />

trees. The rooms are luxurious and the welcome<br />

warm – it is one of our favourite camps in Zambia.<br />

WATERBERRY ZAMBEZI LODGE,<br />

LIVINGSTONE<br />

This pretty lodge is located on the banks of<br />

the Zambezi about 45 minutes’ drive from<br />

the Victoria Falls. There are seven thatched<br />

cottages overlooking either the river or gardens.<br />

A split-level main building houses a dining and<br />

lounge area and looks over the water. A great<br />

place to relax, Waterberry also offers a range of<br />

activities including a guided trip to the Victoria<br />

Falls, a sunset cruise on the river, and a particularly<br />

interesting visit to a nearby village with one of<br />

the local staff.<br />

A room at Sindabezi Island Camp<br />

TOKA LEYA, LIVINGSTONE<br />

Toka Leya has 15 canvas rooms on the banks of<br />

the Zambezi River. All rooms are connected by<br />

wooden walkways, allowing game to pass through<br />

the camp uninterrupted. The main lodge<br />

comprises of an open sided lounge with<br />

comfortable sofas and tables for private or<br />

communal dining. The bar has views onto the<br />

river, and there is a shady deck where you can<br />

enjoy lunch. The pool and small spa make this<br />

an ideal place to relax before or after a safari.<br />

Toka Leya


The Victoria Falls Hotel, Victoria Falls Town<br />

Malachite kingfisher<br />

Victoria Falls Town,<br />

Zimbabwe<br />

The small town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe is<br />

less than two kilometres south of the Zambezi<br />

River and the border to Zambia. Until<br />

Zimbabwe’s political problems surfaced, it was<br />

the place to stay to see the waterfalls and the<br />

town was buzzing and vibrant. Whilst the past<br />

few years saw troubled times for the country,<br />

Victoria Falls Town was one of the few areas<br />

that managed to retain a semblance of a tourism<br />

industry. Recently the town has begun to come<br />

to life again with hotels receiving refurbishments<br />

and new restaurants opening. The streets are<br />

now busy and everything from washing powder<br />

to wooden curios is readily available. The town<br />

has a number of hotels, including the famous<br />

Victoria Falls Hotel which was always, and still is,<br />

the place to have tea on the terrace. You can<br />

walk to the Falls from many of the hotels and<br />

enjoy a leisurely morning exploring the rainforest<br />

pathways with the backdrop of chattering<br />

monkeys. Easily reached from the parks in<br />

Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana, Victoria Falls<br />

Town is once again, a wonderful start or end<br />

to any safari.<br />

Dining at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge<br />

THE VICTORIA FALLS HOTEL,<br />

VICTORIA FALLS TOWN<br />

This historic hotel overlooks the Victoria Falls<br />

Bridge and the gorges below. Situated in acres<br />

of private garden, the charm and tranquil<br />

atmosphere has long been a favourite with<br />

visitors. A walk along the hotel’s pathway will<br />

bring guests out at the top of the gorge and<br />

provides views of the bridge. With colonial<br />

prints and antique furniture, history surrounds<br />

you at every turn. The colonial heritage extends<br />

into the 184 rooms and suites which all have<br />

four-poster or canopy beds. The hotel’s famous<br />

Stanley’s Terrace is the place to enjoy afternoon<br />

tea watching the spray rise up from the water.<br />

ILALA LODGE, VICTORIA<br />

FALLS TOWN<br />

Ilala Lodge enjoys a secluded location close to<br />

town. It is the nearest lodge to the Falls and from<br />

the gardens you can hear the roar of the water.<br />

The lodge borders the Victoria Falls National Park<br />

and it is common to see wildlife wandering across<br />

the lawn. A wide verandah wraps round the front<br />

of the hotel providing a shady area where you<br />

can relax and look out across the pretty gardens.<br />

There are 32 en suite rooms, a pool with a<br />

thatched bar area and a good restaurant that is<br />

popular with hotel residents and locals alike.<br />

VICTORIA FALLS SAFARI LODGE,<br />

VICTORIA FALLS TOWN<br />

The Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is set high on a<br />

plateau, four kilometres from town. The plateau<br />

forms a natural boundary to the unfenced<br />

Zambezi National Park and there are fantastic<br />

uninterrupted views from the hotel. A waterhole<br />

in front of the lodge attracts a variety of game<br />

during the dry season, including elephants,<br />

buffalo, impala and kudu. With the feel of a<br />

large safari lodge there are 72 en suite rooms<br />

with hardwoods, thatch and vibrant colours, all<br />

facing across the park. As well as visits to the<br />

Falls you can enjoy guided bushwalks on the<br />

surrounding reserve.<br />

Ilala Lodge, Victoria Falls Town<br />

www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 53


Zambia’s Green Season<br />

Luangwa in the Green Season<br />

Young impala<br />

In Zambia’s Luangwa Valley, the time from<br />

November to May is known as the Green<br />

Season. Heavy rains arrive, promoting lush<br />

growth that sparkles green under hot skies.<br />

Plains are carpeted with tall grasses and the<br />

land is flushed with thickets and forests in full<br />

foliage. The rains are welcomed by the locals<br />

as it is good for the surrounding farms. Days<br />

are beautiful and warm between showers,<br />

many of which occur in the afternoons or at<br />

night. With the downpour of rain the Luangwa<br />

River swells and bursts its banks, flooding<br />

lagoons which fill with hundreds of waterbirds.<br />

Herbivores give birth and birds are in breeding<br />

plumage. The only creature that is notable<br />

for its absence is the visitor. With parks empty<br />

of vehicles and prices a fraction of those in<br />

high season, this is a magical time for the<br />

safari enthusiast.<br />

Wildlife in the Green Season<br />

In the Green Season you will not see the<br />

great numbers of game congregated at water<br />

sources that you would in the dry season.<br />

However, the rains bring abundant food and<br />

many animals give birth. There are nurseries<br />

of tiny impala tottering around on wobbly legs<br />

and baby warthogs sprinting to burrows.<br />

Proliferation of vulnerable animals brings about<br />

increased predator activity and sightings can be<br />

extraordinary. In early May packs of wild dogs<br />

are seen. Birding is exceptional with an influx<br />

of migratory birds arriving in the valley. Spirals<br />

of migrating storks fill the air, heronries are<br />

formed and colonies of weavers’ nests hang<br />

over lagoons. Birds adopt colourful breeding<br />

plumage and mating displays are common.<br />

Safaris in the Green Season<br />

Because of water levels, fewer camps are<br />

open during the Green Season. Those that<br />

do remain open include Kapani Lodge, Kakuli<br />

Bushcamp, Nkwali, Nsefu, Mfuwe Lodge and<br />

Kapamba Bushcamp. These camps have a<br />

good network of all-weather roads making<br />

game drives possible. In addition to game<br />

drives many camps offer boat trips on the<br />

Luangwa River. As visitor numbers are low,<br />

you can often enjoy private guiding from<br />

some of Zambia’s top guides.<br />

Special interest safaris<br />

The Green Season lends itself to a number of<br />

specialist safaris. It is an excellent time of year<br />

for photographers as there is less dust and the<br />

air is crystal clear. The skies begin the day blue<br />

before building up in the afternoon with<br />

spectacular clouds and light. Two photographic<br />

workshops are run in the South Luangwa<br />

allowing amateur photographers to improve<br />

their skills. Two migrations arrive in Zambia<br />

at this time; blue wildebeest to the Liuwa plain<br />

in early November and ten million bats to<br />

Kasanka in late November. Mobile safaris run<br />

to each migration. Finally, around early May<br />

two wild dog safaris are run in the Luangwa<br />

to see these endangered animals.<br />

Masked weaver displaying<br />

54


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC<br />

OF CONGO<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

South Luangwa<br />

National Park<br />

DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC<br />

OF CONGO<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

South Luangwa<br />

National Park<br />

Please call one of our Zambia specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 505<br />

Lusaka<br />

Lusaka<br />

Lower Zambezi<br />

National Park<br />

Getting around<br />

Livingstone<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

Zambia’s four main game areas are the Kafue<br />

National Park, Lower Zambezi National Park and<br />

the North and South Luangwa Parks. Distances<br />

between the parks are large and roads poor. For<br />

this reason we will fly you from one to the other,<br />

using a network of light aircraft flights. On arrival<br />

at the airstrip you will be met by your guide with<br />

an open 4x4 and taken to your first camp. A<br />

typical itinerary will usually incorporate a number<br />

of camps in one park. <strong>Travel</strong>ling from one to the<br />

other can either be done by game drive or on<br />

foot, as many of Zambia’s camps are deliberately<br />

spaced at walking distance apart.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Zambia is situated in the tropics and receives<br />

strong sunlight and good rainfall. Its seasons can<br />

broadly be divided into two periods, the dry<br />

season which runs from May to the end of<br />

October and the green season which run from<br />

November to April. In the dry season you can<br />

expect clear blue skies and sunshine. The months<br />

of July and August can be cold at night but are<br />

hot during the day. As the dry season progresses<br />

the temperature rises with September and<br />

October seeing temperatures of over 30°C. From<br />

November onwards, Zambia receives high rainfall.<br />

This leads to many areas becoming inaccessible<br />

and the camps in the Kafue and Lower Zambezi<br />

close. Some camps in the South Luangwa stay<br />

open and offer good boat safaris. The vegetation<br />

explodes, animals give birth and bird numbers<br />

swell with an influx of migrants.<br />

Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 10 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Zambia on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Classic Zambia<br />

This itinerary combines a stay on an island near<br />

to the Victoria Falls with a week on a wild safari<br />

in the South Luangwa National Park. On tiny<br />

Sindabezi Island, in the middle of the Zambezi<br />

River, you can relax and enjoy boat trips on the<br />

river. A spectacular flight across Zambia takes you<br />

to the heart of the South Luangwa National Park.<br />

Here we’ve chosen a series of small camps in a<br />

remote area of the park. You can spend your days<br />

game viewing from open vehicles or on foot, and<br />

as darkness falls, there is the chance to search for<br />

leopard, honey badgers, bushbabies and<br />

porcupines on a night drive.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-4<br />

Days 5-7<br />

Days 8-9<br />

Fly from the UK to Livingstone<br />

via Johannesburg.<br />

Arrive in Livingstone for three nights<br />

at Sindabezi Island Camp. Explore the<br />

Victoria Falls, visit local village and<br />

take boat trips on the Zambezi River.<br />

Fly to the South Luangwa for three<br />

nights at Chamilandu Bushcamp.<br />

Enjoy game drives, night drives and<br />

walking safaris.<br />

Walk or game drive from<br />

Chamilandu to Chindeni Bushcamp.<br />

Further time on safari.<br />

Days 10-11 Game drive to Kapamba Bushcamp<br />

for two nights. Further time on safari.<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Game drive from Kapamba to the<br />

airstrip. Fly to Lusaka for one night.<br />

Fly from Lusaka to the UK. Arrive<br />

back in the UK in the early evening.<br />

Stay longer<br />

The South Luangwa combines easily with a beach<br />

stay on Lake Malawi. A light aircraft flight takes you<br />

straight into Lilongwe from where you can drive or<br />

fly onwards to the lake. We recommend staying<br />

on colourful Likoma Island, with its small fishing<br />

and farming villages and easy pace of life. With no<br />

traffic, the roads are ideal for cycling and there is<br />

plenty to see, from the golden beaches to the<br />

impressive cathedral on the centre of the island.<br />

Stay a week or so at Kaya Mawa, an idyllic<br />

property perched up on rocks above crystal clear<br />

waters, and spend your days relaxing beside the<br />

pool, on the beach, snorkelling, sailing and diving.<br />

Luangwa & Lower<br />

Zambezi Explorer<br />

This itinerary uses three camps with prime<br />

locations in their respective parks. Combining the<br />

Luangwa and Lower Zambezi provides a good<br />

contrast in scenery, activities and game and gives a<br />

rounded safari experience. Starting in the Luangwa<br />

at Kakuli Bushcamp you can enjoy day and night<br />

game drives before walking along the river to<br />

your next camp, Muchenja. After time here, a<br />

spectacular flight over the Zambezi escarpment<br />

brings you to the Lower Zambezi. As well as day<br />

and night game drives and walking safaris, the<br />

Lower Zambezi is particularly good for boat trips.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-4<br />

Days 5-7<br />

Days 8-11<br />

Day 12<br />

Fly from the UK to Lusaka.<br />

Arrive in Lusaka and connect with<br />

a flight to the South Luangwa for<br />

two nights at Kakuli Bushcamp.<br />

Enjoy game drives, night drives and<br />

walking safaris.<br />

Walk or game drive to Mchenja<br />

Bushcamp for two nights. Further<br />

time on safari.<br />

Game drive to the airstrip. Fly to the<br />

Lower Zambezi for four nights at<br />

Sausage Tree Camp. Enjoy game<br />

drives, night drives, walking safaris<br />

and boat trips on the Zambezi River.<br />

Fly to Lusaka and on to the UK.<br />

Arrive back in the UK in the evening.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Complete the safari with a trip to the Kafue<br />

National Park. This spectacular wildlife area has<br />

few camps and is wild and unexplored. From<br />

Lufupa Lodge enjoy boat trips, walking safaris and<br />

game drives. Then, take a trip up to the Busanga<br />

Plains to stay in Busanga Bushcamp and take to<br />

the air in a hot air balloon.<br />

Viewing hippo on a walking safari<br />

www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 55 53


Malawi<br />

In a cleft of the Great Rift Valley, Malawi<br />

is dominated by the huge sparkling<br />

waters of Lake Malawi which provide the<br />

lifeblood of this small country’s fertile lands.<br />

In addition to the lake, Malawi boasts a<br />

diversity of scenery and activities to rival<br />

those of her better known neighbours. In the<br />

south of the country, visitors will find<br />

vibrant green tea plantations and the lofty<br />

Zomba Plateau, ideal for a few days’ hiking<br />

in the clear mountain air. Here also is<br />

Liwonde National Park, home to sable<br />

antelope, waterbuck, impala and bushbuck.<br />

The palm fringed Shire River twists<br />

through the park and has noisy pods of<br />

hippos in its calm waters. Elephant come to<br />

the river to drink and colorful birds flit<br />

amongst the riverine forest. To the north,<br />

the highlands of the Nyika Plateau are<br />

grazed by zebra and roan antelope. At the<br />

heart of it all lies the ‘Lake of Stars’ whose<br />

clear waters and beautiful lakeshore are<br />

ideal for those seeking either watersports or<br />

pure relaxation. If you are looking to get<br />

off the beaten track, Malawi’s striking<br />

landscapes, warm-hearted people and rich<br />

cultural history are the answer.<br />

56


<strong>Audley</strong> in Malawi<br />

1<br />

3<br />

4<br />

The chef at Nkwichi Lodge<br />

Malawi is a small and friendly country that<br />

offers a variety of scenery and activities.<br />

Visitors can enjoy hiking in the mountains,<br />

exploring tea estates, bicycling through<br />

villages and snorkelling amongst cichlid fish.<br />

On safari you will be able to view elephant,<br />

sable antelope, waterbuck, impala, zebra,<br />

hippo and crocodile, and there is a huge<br />

diversity of bird species too. Malawi can be<br />

enjoyed as a destination in itself, and to see<br />

the country’s highlights will take around two<br />

weeks. However, for big game such as lion,<br />

leopard and buffalo, Zambia’s South Luangwa<br />

National Park is a short flight away. We think<br />

that a week’s safari in the Luangwa followed<br />

by four or five days on the beach at Lake<br />

Malawi is an ideal combination.<br />

Accommodation<br />

2<br />

5<br />

6<br />

Bohm’s Bee-eater<br />

Malawi is a fairly new travel destination and<br />

some visitors may find that its standards of<br />

accommodation are still catching up with<br />

the country’s more developed neighbours.<br />

However several new lodges have opened<br />

in recent years, while others have upgraded<br />

their facilities, and there are now some<br />

excellent options. The accommodation<br />

ranges from simple bush and beach camps,<br />

friendly guesthouses and pretty beach lodges<br />

through to more luxurious safari lodges and<br />

beach retreats. Our specialists have visited all<br />

of the hotels, lodges and camps and will be<br />

able to advise you on their favourites.<br />

1 Lake Malawi<br />

5 Liwonde National Park<br />

With sparkling waters stretching<br />

for 500 kilometres, the lake is<br />

fringed with idyllic sandy beaches.<br />

Malawi’s premier game<br />

viewing destination,<br />

dominated by the winding<br />

2 Cape Maclear<br />

Shire River.<br />

A UNESCO World Heritage Site<br />

and one of the most picturesque<br />

areas of Lake Malawi.<br />

3 Likoma Island<br />

A tiny unspoilt island with rocky<br />

promontories, golden beaches<br />

and huge baobab trees.<br />

4 Manda Wilderness<br />

On the Mozambique shores<br />

of the lake this untouched<br />

wilderness stretches down to<br />

white sand beaches.<br />

Girl selling fish at Cape Maclear<br />

6 Thyolo Region<br />

A beautiful rural area with<br />

vibrant green tea estates<br />

and Malawi’s highest peak,<br />

Mount Mulanje.<br />

Kaya Mawa, Likoma Island<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Malawi, please<br />

see page 61.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Malawi<br />

specialists 01993 838 540<br />

Malawi 57


Kaya Mawa, Likoma Island<br />

Lake Malawi<br />

The waters of Lake Malawi stretch across roughly<br />

one-fifth of Malawi making it the country’s<br />

defining feature. It is often known as the Lake of<br />

Stars due to the reflection of the night sky in its<br />

clear waters; watching the moon rise slowly over<br />

the lake or the sun dipping down into its waters<br />

at the end of the day is an unforgettable<br />

experience. The shores of the lake vary from<br />

golden beaches to steep cliffs and its waters<br />

contain brightly coloured tropical fish. There are<br />

barefoot beach lodges and tiny islands offering<br />

delightful hideaways for those seeking relaxation<br />

and watersports. Swimming in the clear water,<br />

snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking or simply<br />

swinging in a hammock and enjoying the views<br />

are just some of the ways that you can while<br />

away the peaceful hours at the Lake.<br />

A room at Kaya Mawa<br />

58<br />

Likoma Island and the<br />

Mozambique Lakeshore<br />

Towards the northeastern corner of the lake<br />

lies tiny unspoilt Likoma Island, with its rocky<br />

promontories, golden beaches and tall baobab<br />

trees. This sleepy island is steeped in colonial<br />

history and its small town is home to the<br />

impressive, and slightly incongruous, St Peter’s<br />

Cathedral, built by missionaries who came to<br />

the island inspired by the words of David<br />

Livingstone. Mozambique is only a short distance<br />

away across a stretch of water and can be<br />

reached by speedboat from Likoma Island.<br />

Here visitors will find the untouched Manda<br />

Wilderness area encompassing baobab forest<br />

and white sand beaches.<br />

KAYA MAWA, LIKOMA ISLAND<br />

Kaya Mawa means ‘maybe tomorrow’ and its<br />

name sums up the relaxed atmosphere of this<br />

unique lodge. Built on a rocky promontory, it<br />

has a maze of twisting pathways and steps leading<br />

to stone chalets with views over the water.<br />

There are two romantic honeymoon chalets,<br />

one located on its own tiny island. The main<br />

lodge is raised up overlooking the lake and has<br />

a bar, dining area and a small plunge pool. The<br />

snorkelling is superb and you can also explore<br />

the island on foot, by boat or by bicycle.<br />

The lounge at Nkwichi Lodge<br />

NKWICHI LODGE, MANDA<br />

WILDERNESS<br />

Nkwichi Lodge is an ecolodge located on a<br />

beautiful white sand beach. The lodge takes its<br />

name from the local name for the beach, Mchenja<br />

Nkwichi, meaning ‘squeaky sands’, inspired by the<br />

sound that the powdery white sands make as<br />

you walk barefoot across them. The lodge was<br />

constructed by local people from natural<br />

materials which blend with the environment.<br />

Tasty, fresh meals are eaten on the beach, or<br />

perhaps under a giant baobab tree. Guests can<br />

enjoy swimming, snorkelling, boat trips and<br />

kayaking or visits to the community projects<br />

which are sustained by the lodge.


Pounding grain Meeting local children The Mufusa<br />

Growing sunflowers at the Nkwichi Farm<br />

The Southern Lakeshore &<br />

Cape Maclear<br />

Cape Maclear is a beautiful headland that juts<br />

out into crystal clear waters on the southern<br />

lakeshore. The tree-clad cape, its surrounding<br />

waters and a miniature archipelago of twelve<br />

islands were declared a national park in 1980 in<br />

order to protect the unique diversity of tropical<br />

fish here, and later became a UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site. This remote area is reached by a<br />

rough, winding road (which can become<br />

impassable in the rainy season) or by light aircraft.<br />

Visitors to Cape Maclear can stay in Chembe, a<br />

small fishing village with golden beaches on the<br />

lake shore, on one of the headlands or on one<br />

of the tiny islands.<br />

MUMBO ISLAND, LAKE MALAWI<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Mumbo Island is a secluded camp located on a<br />

private island. The island has rocky coves and a<br />

forested interior and is accessed either by kayak<br />

or boat. There are five en suite safari tents<br />

located on a little outcrop and reached by a<br />

wooden walkway, and one family unit on the<br />

main island. The atmosphere at Mumbo is<br />

relaxed and friendly. Activities include kayaking,<br />

snorkelling, diving or, best of all, swinging in<br />

your hammock listening to the waves and the<br />

fish eagles.<br />

Mumbo Island<br />

PUMULANI, CAPE MACLEAR<br />

The luxurious Pumulani is set high up on the<br />

hillside with fabulous views out over the lake.<br />

A winding wooden pathway and steps lead down<br />

to the swimming pool area and a pretty golden<br />

sand beach where you can relax and enjoy a<br />

drink at the tiny beach bar. The ten villas are set<br />

on the hillside and have been designed to blend<br />

into the environment. They are spacious and have<br />

a bedroom, huge bathroom and airy living room<br />

all designed in a chic, modern style.<br />

Pumulani, Cape Maclear<br />

DANFORTH YACHTING,<br />

CAPE MACLEAR<br />

Danforth Yachting is a homely guesthouse run<br />

by Howard and Michelle Massey-Hickes who are<br />

excellent hosts. The guesthouse is set in pretty<br />

gardens running down to the lake, where their<br />

yacht, the Mufusa is moored. With eight rooms<br />

and a relaxed atmosphere this friendly place is<br />

ideal for families and watersports enthusiasts with<br />

lots of activities available. Day trips or sunset<br />

cruises on the yacht are a highlight of any stay<br />

and longer yacht charters can be arranged.<br />

Snorkelling from Mumbo Island<br />

Danforth Yachting<br />

www.audleytravel.com/malawi ● 01993 838 540 ● Malawi 59


Elephant in Liwonde National Park<br />

MVUU WILDERNESS LODGE,<br />

LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK<br />

Mvuu Wilderness Lodge is on the confluence of<br />

the Shire River and a small tributary. There are<br />

eight safari tents each raised up on wooden decks<br />

looking out over the water, one of which is a<br />

romantic honeymoon suite. The main lodge has a<br />

plunge pool, dining and lounge area and excellent<br />

views of hippo in the river and warthog and<br />

antelope on the plains.<br />

Mvuu Lodge<br />

Liwonde National Park<br />

Liwonde is Malawi’s premier game viewing<br />

destination and while the game here does not<br />

match Zambia’s Luangwa Valley, it is nevertheless<br />

impressive. The park is dominated by the vast<br />

borassus palm-fringed Shire River, home to large<br />

hippo pods and crocodiles who bask on its banks.<br />

The game in Liwonde includes elephant, sable<br />

antelope, waterbuck, impala, and bushbuck, and<br />

the birding is excellent. In the centre of the park<br />

is a protected area which provides a safe haven<br />

for the black rhino, buffalo and zebra which are<br />

being reintroduced to the park. Activities in<br />

Liwonde include game drives, walks and boat trips<br />

which enable you to get up close and personal<br />

with the elephant herds bathing in the river and<br />

the hippos wallowing in the shallows.<br />

60<br />

MVUU CAMP, LIWONDE<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Mvuu Camp is also located on the banks of the<br />

Shire with great views over the river. This is an<br />

ideal option for families and larger groups and<br />

offers simple but comfortable en suite<br />

accommodation in twelve chalets and rondavels,<br />

as well as a nearby campsite. The camp has a<br />

central dining and bar area and a large<br />

swimming pool.<br />

Dinner at Mvuu Camp<br />

Waterlilies in the Shire River<br />

Zomba Plateau and the<br />

Thyolo Region<br />

In the south of Malawi you will find Zomba, a<br />

magnificent table-top mountain covered with<br />

forests, streams and waterfalls. It towers above<br />

the former capital of Malawi, an old colonial town<br />

of the same name. The plateau is a lovely place to<br />

discover on foot or by bike and it makes a good<br />

base from which to explore the old town’s faded<br />

colonial splendour and bustling market. Beyond<br />

Zomba is the Thyolo Region, an area of fertile<br />

land dominated by vibrant green tea estates. Here<br />

Malawi’s highest peak, Mount Mulanje, rises over<br />

3,000 metres above the tea estates, woodlands<br />

and rivers. There are not many accommodation<br />

choices in this region, but a good option is to stay<br />

at one of the tea estates in a simple guesthouse.


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tea plantation in Thyolo<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itinerary shown is designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and is a route that<br />

works particularly well. We can use this as a basis<br />

to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

MALAWI<br />

Lake<br />

Malawi<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

Please call one of our Malawi specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Lilongwe<br />

Mumbo Island<br />

Cape Maclear<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 540<br />

Liwonde<br />

National Park<br />

Getting around<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

Satemwa Chawani Bungalow<br />

Ku Chawe Inn<br />

KU CHAWE INN,<br />

ZOMBA PLATEAU<br />

Ku Chawe Inn is located high up on the<br />

Plateau with commanding views of the valley<br />

below. It is about a twenty-minute drive from<br />

Zomba Town up a steep and winding road,<br />

surrounded by dense woodland. The brick<br />

built low-rise hotel is surrounded by lush,<br />

well-tended gardens and has comfortable en<br />

suite rooms with balconies and log fires to<br />

keep out the evening chill.<br />

SATEMWA TEA ESTATE,<br />

THYOLO REGION<br />

Satemwa is one of Malawi’s longest established<br />

tea and coffee estates, owned by the same<br />

family for three generations. The main house,<br />

Huntingdon House, and adjacent Chawani<br />

Bungalow, have been sensitively renovated to<br />

retain their historical charm and now offer<br />

characterful en suite accommodation for<br />

visitors. Outside, there are rolling manicured<br />

lawns, 100 year old trees and colourful<br />

gardens, perfect for long walks. Guests can<br />

explore the estate on foot or by mountain<br />

bike, discover the teas produced and hear the<br />

fascinating history of the Satemwa Estate.<br />

There are no direct flights from the UK to<br />

Lilongwe but daily flights go via either Nairobi or<br />

Johannesburg. As Malawi is a relatively small<br />

country, visitors have the option of exploring<br />

either by light aircraft or by road in a private<br />

vehicle with a Malawian driver-guide. While flights<br />

offer spectacular views, many choose to explore<br />

the country by road in order to have the option<br />

of stopping off at points of interest. Roads in<br />

Malawi range from smooth tarmac to rutted dirt<br />

tracks so a transfer can be an adventure, and fun<br />

with a good guide. It is easy to combine Malawi<br />

with Zambia as flights go each day between<br />

Lilongwe and Mfuwe, the airport outside<br />

Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Malawi has two broad seasons – dry and wet.<br />

The dry season is from May to October. May<br />

until August is a cooler time of year with bright<br />

sunshine and fresh evenings. Temperatures start<br />

to rise in September and remain high throughout<br />

the rainy season which runs from November<br />

until April. In recent years the heaviest rains<br />

have fallen in December, January and February.<br />

Because of Malawi’s varied landscape, regional<br />

variations in weather are significant. The lower<br />

lying lakeshore areas are warmer all year round<br />

while temperatures in the highlands are<br />

refreshingly cool with chilly evenings particularly<br />

in the winter.<br />

Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 12.5 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Malawi on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Malawi Explorer<br />

This trip is a circular one around Southern Malawi,<br />

seeing all of the country’s highlights. You will have<br />

the chance to enjoy a variety of activities including<br />

game viewing in Liwonde National Park, sailing<br />

on the Lake, kayaking around tiny islands and<br />

swimming and snorkelling. <strong>Travel</strong>ling around, you<br />

will have the opportunity to barter at local<br />

markets and meet local people, accompanied by<br />

your guide, who will give you valuable insights<br />

into the country.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Days 3-5<br />

Days 6-8<br />

Days 9-11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Fly from the UK to<br />

Johannesburg overnight.<br />

Arrive in Johannesburg and fly to<br />

Lilongwe for one night.<br />

Guided drive to Liwonde National<br />

Park for three nights at Mvuu Camp.<br />

Game viewing in Liwonde<br />

National Park.<br />

Guided drive to Cape Maclear for<br />

three nights at Danforth Lodge.<br />

Sailing, swimming, snorkelling and<br />

relaxation beside Lake Malawi.<br />

Boat trip or kayak to Mumbo Island<br />

for three nights. Kayaking, swimming<br />

and snorkelling from Mumbo.<br />

Guided drive to Lilongwe. Fly from<br />

Lilongwe to the UK via Johannesburg.<br />

Arrive back in the UK in the<br />

early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

For a big game experience, fly by light aircraft<br />

from Lilongwe to the South Luangwa National<br />

Park in Zambia and stay at Kapani Lodge. Spend<br />

the mornings and evenings exploring the park,<br />

renowned for both its plains game and its big<br />

cat populations.<br />

Coffee beans<br />

www.audleytravel.com/malawi ● 01993 838 540 ● Malawi 61


Mozambique<br />

Mozambique is wild, beautiful and<br />

undeveloped. Miles of palm-fringed<br />

white beaches stretch along the coast. Tiny<br />

villages on the edge of the sand have papaya<br />

trees shading grass huts and dhows moored<br />

up in the mangroves. Offshore, idyllic<br />

archipelagos such as Bazaruto and<br />

Quirimba are surrounded by coral reefs with<br />

beaches that are breeding sites for turtles.<br />

The islands of Ibo and Ilha de Moçambique,<br />

once bustling Swahili trading posts, now<br />

have colonial houses overtaken by strangler<br />

figs, eerie and enticing in equal measure.<br />

Until recently, the mainland has remained<br />

completely off limits for all but the most<br />

intrepid of travellers, but the two game<br />

parks of Gorongosa and Niassa are now<br />

open to visitors. Newborn lodges are finding<br />

their feet and are real gems with original<br />

ideas and outstanding service. Elephant<br />

roam unfettered by boundaries, lion can<br />

be heard roaring at night, and with no<br />

light pollution to hide them, the stars<br />

sparkle against an ink black sky. With an<br />

increasingly good network of flights,<br />

Mozambique is slowly coming to life – in<br />

our opinion, this is an ideal time to visit.<br />

62


<strong>Audley</strong> in Mozambique<br />

1<br />

4<br />

6<br />

We have been operating in Mozambique<br />

for many years and have seen it grow from<br />

a beach-only destination with two lodges to<br />

the safari circuit it offers now. It is currently<br />

one of the most exciting African countries<br />

as national parks are becoming accessible,<br />

flight networks taking shape and tented<br />

camps opening.<br />

2<br />

5<br />

We can recommend three types of<br />

itinerary: a stand-alone beach holiday, an<br />

island hopping trip or a safari and beach<br />

combination. If you’d like a week on the<br />

beach there are lots of options, from<br />

ecolodges to luxurious hotels. For island<br />

hopping, the Quirimba Archipelago is perfect,<br />

as you can combine time spent soaking up<br />

the history and culture of Ibo Island with a<br />

stay at a beach retreat such as Medjumbe.<br />

Those wanting to combine safari and beach<br />

can fly with ease between the coast and the<br />

Niassa Reserve and Gorongosa National<br />

Park. Both are wild reserves where the<br />

emphasis is on walking and exploring rather<br />

than ticking off the big five.<br />

Accommodation<br />

1 Niassa Game Reserve 4 Quirimba<br />

6 Ibo Island<br />

One of Africa’s wildest reserves. Archipelago<br />

Spectacular scenery and good<br />

walking country.<br />

2 Gorongosa<br />

National Park<br />

A legendary park in the<br />

1960s before the civil war.<br />

An extensive relocation<br />

programme is leading to<br />

increasing game numbers.<br />

3 Bazaruto Archipelago<br />

An archipelago formed by<br />

sand dunes rising from the sea.<br />

A stunning beach destination<br />

with world-class diving and<br />

snorkelling.<br />

3<br />

A breathtaking collection of coral<br />

islands. Luxury accommodation<br />

and excellent diving.<br />

5 Ilha de Moçambique<br />

The former capital of<br />

Mozambique and largely<br />

unchanged since its construction<br />

three hundred years ago. A<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site.<br />

Quirimba beach<br />

An ancient Swahili town with<br />

now-crumbling mansions, forts,<br />

churches and markets. Eerie<br />

and atmospheric.<br />

Local Ibo lady<br />

Each year new camps and lodges are<br />

opening in Mozambique. We find this a<br />

bonus as they tend to have fresh designs,<br />

original ideas and staff with lots of<br />

enthusiasm. On the coast, accommodation<br />

ranges from exclusive private islands such as<br />

Vamizi to simple ecolodges such as Guludo.<br />

Mozambique is the master of the ‘barefoot<br />

boutique’ hotel with several properties such<br />

as Azura, Coral Lodge and Benguerra in this<br />

bracket. All offer excellent cuisine and a<br />

high standard of accommodation. The two<br />

reserves of Niassa and Gorongosa only have<br />

one tented camp in each to date although<br />

we are expecting this to change. Both camps<br />

offer knowledgeable guides, comfortable<br />

tents and are in remote wilderness areas.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Mozambique,<br />

please see page 71.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Mozambique<br />

specialists 01993 838 560<br />

Mozambique 63


Songue River wetlands, Gorongosa<br />

Gorongosa National Park<br />

In the sixties, Gorongosa was considered one<br />

of the best game viewing destinations in Africa.<br />

However, during the protracted civil war, the park<br />

suffered badly and game numbers plummeted. In<br />

2004 Gorongosa’s fortunes began to be reversed<br />

when an ambitious relocation programme started.<br />

Today the project is well underway and wildlife<br />

populations are steadily increasing.<br />

As you head out into the park on foot through<br />

fever tree forests the bush comes alive.<br />

Waterbuck, oribi and impala dart across<br />

floodplains and indented in the earth you can see<br />

lion spoor, among other tracks. Sable, reedbuck,<br />

nyala and Lichtenstein’s hartebeest all occur in<br />

good numbers as do buffalo and zebra. Leopard<br />

are present but shy, so seen infrequently.<br />

In the north of the park the Songue River and<br />

surrounding wetlands are filled with every<br />

Elephant herd in Gorongosa<br />

64<br />

Explore Gorongosa tented camp<br />

imaginable waterbird. Elephant come to drink,<br />

pods of hippos bask in the water and crocodile<br />

can be seen on the sandbanks. Sunset here is a<br />

magical way to end your day of discovery.<br />

EXPLORE GORONGOSA,<br />

GORONGOSA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Explore Gorongosa is the first camp to open<br />

in the park since the regeneration and has an<br />

excellent position above the seasonal Mussicadzi<br />

River. There are four large, semi-permanent tents<br />

with double beds and en suite bathrooms with<br />

open air hot bucket showers. This is camping in<br />

comfort without going over the top on luxury,<br />

perfect for an area that is so wild and remote.<br />

The camp places strong emphasis on personalised<br />

experiences, conservation and taking time to<br />

explore the park. Game viewing is done on foot<br />

as well as from vehicles and guests can also take<br />

mokoro boat trips at certain times of year.<br />

Walking safari in Gorongosa<br />

Impala on the floodplains


Elephant in the Niassa Reserve<br />

Grey tree frog Lugenda Camp Impala in Niassa<br />

Niassa Reserve<br />

The Niassa Reserve in northern Mozambique is<br />

one of the largest and most untamed reserves in<br />

Africa. Majestic granite hills rise from miombo<br />

woodland, and two snaking rivers, the Lugenda<br />

and Rovuma, are flanked by riverine forest. The<br />

wildlife in the reserve suffered during the civil war,<br />

but this is still home to the highest concentrations<br />

of game in the country. There are large herds<br />

of elephant and buffalo while kudu, impala,<br />

hartebeest, wildebeest, zebra, waterbuck,<br />

bushbuck and reedbuck are regularly sighted.<br />

Hyena, lion and leopard are also there, though<br />

sightings are not as common.<br />

Niassa is suited to those looking for an active<br />

safari. The excitement begins on arrival, as<br />

flying low towards the airstrip you skim over the<br />

Lugenda River and spot hippo and crocodile in<br />

the sluggish waters. Game drives are part of your<br />

stay but it is the other activities that give Niassa<br />

the edge. Paddling a canoe down the river, you<br />

glide silently past African skimmers, yellow-billed<br />

storks and all types of kingfishers. Climbing one<br />

of the granite inselbergs requires stamina but the<br />

far reaching views across the reserve make it<br />

worthwhile. Game drives allow you to spot bigger<br />

game and night drives reveal civets, genets and<br />

porcupines nosing out of their daytime hiding<br />

spots. Dozens of nightjars flit across the headlights’<br />

beams as the smell of warm dust fills the air.<br />

LUGENDA CAMP, NIASSA RESERVE<br />

Lugenda Camp is situated under sycamore figs.<br />

When the trees are in fruit, elephant enjoy<br />

coming into camp to eat the fallen figs and you<br />

often don’t have to leave your tent to enjoy some<br />

big game. There are eight luxury tents with en<br />

suite bathrooms at the back and shady verandas<br />

at the front. In the centre of camp a dining and<br />

lounge area built of wood and thatch has open<br />

sides looking out to the bush. You can also dine<br />

in the outside boma area around an open camp<br />

fire. Lots of activities including game drives, night<br />

drives, walking and canoeing keep you busy in<br />

the morning and evening. For the heat of the<br />

day, the small pool is ideal for relaxation with<br />

a good book.<br />

EXPLORE NIASSA EXPEDITIONS,<br />

NIASSA RESERVE<br />

Explore Niassa Expeditions run four to seven<br />

night mobile camping safaris in a remote area of<br />

Niassa. The trips will suit active people wanting<br />

to immerse themselves in the wilderness with an<br />

expert guide. All safaris start at Lugenda Camp<br />

and follow the Lugenda River either on foot, by<br />

canoe or occasionally by vehicle. At night, the fly<br />

camps will have been set up for you by a camp<br />

crew awaiting your arrival. Camps are unfussy<br />

but comfortable, with hot water, cold drinks,<br />

delicious meals and cosy beds. After dinner<br />

around the campfire nothing beats lying in your<br />

dome tent, listening to a distant lion roar or the<br />

whoop of a hyena.<br />

Niassa viewpoint<br />

www.audleytravel.com/mozambique ● 01993 838 560 ● Mozambique 65


Dhow in the Bazaruto Archipelago<br />

The Bazaruto Archipelago<br />

The Bazaruto Archipelago consists of five dune<br />

islands strung out in the turquoise waters of the<br />

Indian Ocean. Two of the islands, Bazaruto and<br />

Benguerra, have lodges whilst the islands of<br />

Santa Isobel, Santa Carolina and Magaruque have<br />

no accommodation. Declared a national park<br />

in 1971, these islands are idyllic, with sugar<br />

white beaches whose sands squeak underfoot.<br />

Palm trees give way to lush vegetation, in<br />

which samango monkeys, green coucals and<br />

blue-cheeked bee-eaters make their home.<br />

Little villages are tucked away, shaded beneath<br />

orange and cashew nut trees. However, it is the<br />

sea that holds perhaps the greatest attraction.<br />

Warmed by the waters of the Mozambique<br />

Stream, the waters are clear with mile upon<br />

mile of reef. It is hard to beat the diving and<br />

Bazaruto Lodge<br />

66<br />

A suite at Indigo Bay<br />

snorkelling here as the coral is pristine and variety<br />

of fish superb. You will find three species of turtle,<br />

including the loggerhead that nests on the islands,<br />

while spinner and humpback dolphins and dugong<br />

are also seen.<br />

BAZARUTO LODGE,<br />

BAZARUTO ISLAND<br />

Bazaruto Lodge is set on the edge of a long<br />

white sandy beach in the north of Bazaruto Island.<br />

It is a simple lodge, ideal for those looking for a<br />

quiet hideaway in which to focus on the beach,<br />

snorkelling and walking. The 40 thatched<br />

bungalows are dotted beneath palms in the<br />

garden and along the beach. The dining room,<br />

bar and swimming pool all have sea views. Crab,<br />

crayfish, calamari, prawns and fresh salads feature<br />

on the menu. While dinner is taken in the dining<br />

room, lunch is usually by the pool, or you can<br />

take a picnic to the beach.<br />

INDIGO BAY RESORT,<br />

BAZARUTO ISLAND<br />

Indigo Bay Resort is situated on a perfect<br />

crescent of white sand on Bazaruto Island. It is a<br />

large resort by Mozambique standards and has<br />

44 air-conditioned rooms. There are two<br />

restaurants, one serving à la carte Mozambican<br />

and Portuguese cuisine and the other dishing up<br />

African bush-style dinners under the stars. A pool<br />

bar serves snacks throughout the day. Indigo Bay<br />

has plenty to offer the active. There are two<br />

pools, and diving, snorkelling, fishing, windsurfing,<br />

sailing, horse-riding and 4x4 trips can be arranged.<br />

It is an ideal resort for families with plenty to do<br />

for the children whilst parents can enjoy a<br />

relaxing treatment in the new spa.<br />

Indigo Bay Resort


Turtle in the Bazaruto Archipelago<br />

A casita at Benguerra Lodge<br />

The beach at Benguerra Lodge<br />

Pansy Island<br />

MARLIN LODGE,<br />

BENGUERRA ISLAND<br />

On Benguerra Island, Marlin Lodge is built into<br />

the dunes above a broad sandy beach. It is a<br />

friendly and relaxed lodge with an unpretentious<br />

atmosphere. Wooden decks lead to 17 chalets<br />

which vary in size from simple rooms to luxury<br />

suites. All have spacious bedrooms, en suite<br />

bathrooms and shady verandas, with a private<br />

sandy path leading from your chalet onto the<br />

beach. Activities at the lodge include diving,<br />

snorkelling, game fishing and 4x4 trips exploring<br />

the dunes. Or, if it’s relaxation you are after, you<br />

could try their spa.<br />

BENGUERRA LODGE,<br />

BENGUERRA ISLAND<br />

This lodge has 12 beautiful casitas and cabanas<br />

shaded by milkwood trees overlooking the sandy<br />

shore. The rooms are raised on wooden platforms<br />

and have king size beds and en suite bathrooms.<br />

All have a private plunge pool. There is a North<br />

African feel to the décor and the main lounge has<br />

wide chairs with colourful cushions. The dining<br />

room has a deck overlooking the garden and<br />

meals are often served under the trees or on the<br />

beach. Activities at Benguerra include fishing, diving<br />

and snorkelling trips with stops at Pansy Island for<br />

lazing around. There’s also the chance to explore<br />

the island by 4x4 and have a picnic on a deserted<br />

beach. For the less active, the small spa is a delight.<br />

Room at Azura<br />

Marlin Lodge<br />

AZURA, BENGUERRA ISLAND<br />

Azura is a luxurious retreat on the northwest of<br />

Benguerra Island. The 14 air-conditioned villas are<br />

built in a style that combines traditional African<br />

with modern luxury. Each villa has a large<br />

bedroom, en suite bathroom and private plunge<br />

pool. On arrival a bottle of French wine will be<br />

waiting for you in your room and a butler is<br />

available to look after your every need. Spa<br />

treatments are available in the privacy of your villa.<br />

There is a main swimming pool as well as a PADI<br />

dive centre and a well equipped fishing centre.<br />

The lodge’s Azura Rainbow Fund runs a variety of<br />

local projects supporting the community as well as<br />

the Dugong Protection Foundation.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/mozambique ● 01993 838 560 ● Mozambique 67


Dhow sailing from Medjumbe Island<br />

A room at Medjumbe Island Resort<br />

The Quirimba Archipelago<br />

The Quirimba Archipelago is made up of 32 coral<br />

islands just off the coast of northern Mozambique.<br />

Some of the islands such as Medjumbe, Matemo,<br />

Vamizi and Ibo now have tiny boutique hotels,<br />

while others including Rongai, Tecmagi and<br />

Metundo are home only to nesting turtles and<br />

seabirds. Pristine and largely unknown, these<br />

islands are visited by just a handful of guests.<br />

Tangled green creepers tumble to the water<br />

from low coral cliffs and white sandy beaches are<br />

littered with shells. There are butterflies, tropical<br />

flowers, monkeys and birds, but – apart from<br />

the local fishermen there are few people. The<br />

turquoise waters are a marine sanctuary, rich with<br />

coral and fish, green and hawksbill turtles,<br />

humpback whales and the rare dugong.<br />

68<br />

MEDJUMBE ISLAND RESORT,<br />

MEDJUMBE ISLAND<br />

This boutique hotel, located on Medjumbe<br />

Private Island, which at just one kilometre long<br />

and 350 metres wide, is a tiny hideaway. There<br />

are twelve modern chalets on the edge of the<br />

beach, with private plunge pool, air-conditioning<br />

and en suite bathrooms. The active can enjoy<br />

diving, snorkeling, boating and picnics on nearby<br />

Quisanga Island whilst those seeking to relax can<br />

climb into the hammock on the veranda and<br />

have a snooze.<br />

Snorkelling from Medjumbe<br />

A chalet at Matemo Island Resort<br />

The pool at Matemo Island Resort<br />

MATEMO ISLAND RESORT,<br />

MATEMO ISLAND<br />

Matemo Island Resort sits on the corner of<br />

Matemo Island on a curving sandy beach and has<br />

24 modern air-conditioned chalets with pretty<br />

verandas overlooking the beach. The main lodge<br />

has a dining room with views of the sea and a<br />

pool set into the rocks. Many activities can be<br />

enjoyed, including snorkelling, diving, deep sea<br />

fishing and trips to Ibo Island.


Ibo Island street Quirimba girl A villa at Vamizi<br />

The beach at Vamizi Island<br />

VAMIZI ISLAND LODGE,<br />

VAMIZI ISLAND<br />

Vamizi Island is a little slice of paradise with a<br />

soft white sandy beach littered with shells. Turtles<br />

nest on the beach from December to May and<br />

humpback whales pass by in July and August.<br />

Vamizi Island Lodge is the most luxurious lodge<br />

in Mozambique and has 13 large villas. Each has<br />

a bedroom with ocean views and a living room<br />

with sofas, books and wooden chests full of cold<br />

drinks. Fresh buckets of crabs are bought from<br />

the local fishermen and prepared for dinner<br />

which is served on the beach and lit by lanterns.<br />

The days can be spent swimming, snorkelling,<br />

diving and exploring other islands.<br />

Access to the islands is by light aircraft<br />

Ibo Island Lodge<br />

IBO ISLAND LODGE, IBO ISLAND<br />

This quirky lodge is made from two refurbished<br />

mansions each over a century old, with high<br />

ceilings, wide verandas and heavy wooden doors.<br />

They are furnished with mahogany day beds and<br />

antiques and soft African fabrics, all produced by<br />

skilled local craftsmen. The fourteen rooms are<br />

individually designed and have en suite facilities<br />

and there is a pool in the pretty garden. The<br />

lodge makes good use of its waterfront location,<br />

with meals served up on the rooftop overlooking<br />

the sea. The menu features home grown organic<br />

vegetables as well as tiger prawns, game fish and<br />

crab. When staying on Ibo, you can explore the<br />

island’s town, with its crumbling colonial<br />

architecture, or can take trips to nearby<br />

sandbanks for snorkelling and picnics.<br />

GULUDO BEACH LODGE,<br />

MOZAMBIQUE MAINLAND<br />

Facing the Quirimba Archipelago, Guludo<br />

Beach Lodge is located on a 12 kilometre<br />

beach on the mainland. Its owners Amy and<br />

Neal have created a sustainable lodge that<br />

directly benefits the local communities. The lodge<br />

is simple but beautiful, all the staff are from the<br />

local villages and many community projects are<br />

underway as a result of money generated from<br />

the lodge. Accommodation is in reed and thatch<br />

bandas and dining is under thatch or on the<br />

beach. There is a wide variety of activities<br />

including diving, snorkelling, village walks, and<br />

boat trips to Rolas Island.<br />

View from Guludo Beach Lodge<br />

www.audleytravel.com/mozambique ● 01993 838 560 ● Mozambique 69


Beach at Nanantha Bay<br />

The Nacala Region<br />

On the mainland, Nacala and the surrounding<br />

area have until recently been too remote for any<br />

other than the hardiest of backpackers to reach.<br />

There is only one tarmac road leading to<br />

Nampula, where a small airport is located. Off<br />

this, rutted sandy tracks lead to villages where the<br />

Macua people live from subsistence farming. The<br />

coast is unspoilt, with endless beaches backed by<br />

mangroves and subtropical bush. Offshore there<br />

are un-dived reefs and shipwrecks underneath the<br />

waves. Humpback whales pass through on their<br />

annual migration from July to September. One of<br />

Ilha de Moçambique<br />

70<br />

A chalet at Nuarro<br />

the most exciting places to visit in this region is<br />

the Ilha de Moçambique. Once the capital of the<br />

country, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage<br />

Site. Reached by a long bridge, this tiny island is<br />

two miles long and 500 metres wide and has a<br />

city of narrow streets, beautiful churches, trading<br />

houses and a hospital. Many of the buildings are<br />

now being carefully restored. South of Ilha de<br />

Moçambique, La Varanda is a private nature<br />

reserve that encompasses mangrove forests,<br />

dunes and white beaches and has one small<br />

lodge. North of Nampula, the remote Nanantha<br />

Bay is crescent shaped and backed by baobab<br />

trees. Fishing villages are dotted along the shore<br />

and dhows are a common sight. The one small<br />

lodge here is an ideal base from which to explore.<br />

NUARRO LODGE, NANANTHA BAY<br />

Nuarro Lodge is built on the point at the end of<br />

Nanatha Bay, where the beach stretches for<br />

several miles and is backed by bush and baobab<br />

forest. The lodge is run on strong ethical principles<br />

and the community is active in building the<br />

business. Nuarro has twelve chalets tucked into<br />

the dune vegetation, each with a hammock on<br />

the veranda. There are a number of family chalets<br />

which have a mezzanine level for children. PADI<br />

diving instructors are on hand to take you on<br />

dives whilst non-divers can enjoy snorkelling,<br />

dhow sailing, fishing and whale watching, in season.<br />

On land there are eco trails to enjoy by bike or<br />

on foot as well as village visits and trips to Ilha<br />

de Moçambique.<br />

CORAL LODGE 1541,<br />

LA VARANDA NATURE RESERVE<br />

This lodge is situated at the tip of a peninsula with<br />

a lagoon on one side and the Indian Ocean on<br />

the other. The lagoon is sheltered and clear and<br />

its coral reefs make it ideal for swimming and<br />

snorkelling. There are ten villas at Coral Lodge,<br />

built on top of the dunes to maximise the views<br />

of the sea and to enable circulation of the sea<br />

breeze. Cuisine is a highlight, with only local<br />

ingredients used – fresh fish and shellfish bought<br />

from local fishermen each day. After a big meal<br />

there are plenty of land and water based activities<br />

to help you work off your lunch!


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Mozambique specialists to<br />

start planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 560<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

TANZANIA<br />

Guludo Beach Lodge<br />

Niassa Game Reserve<br />

Ibo Island<br />

Pemba<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

TANZANIA<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

Benguerra Island<br />

Vilanculos<br />

Getting around<br />

As distances are large in Mozambique it is best<br />

to fly around the country. South African Airlink<br />

flies from Johannesburg to Pemba, where you<br />

can pick up light aircraft flights to access the<br />

Quirimba Islands and the Niassa Reserve.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>ling between the islands can either be<br />

by plane or boat, depending on the distances<br />

involved. Linhas Aereas de Mocambique has<br />

services between Johannesburg, Vilanculos,<br />

Pemba, Maputo, Nacala and Beira from where<br />

you can access Gorongosa National Park. Finally,<br />

Pelican Air, a small airline, flies regularly between<br />

Johannesburg, the Kruger National Park and<br />

Vilanculos. From here you can take a light aircraft<br />

across to the islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Mozambique has a warm tropical climate with<br />

significant regional variations. Northern<br />

Mozambique has a dry season that runs from May<br />

to November, although there can be a few rain<br />

showers in September. Temperatures are lowest<br />

in July when it is typically about 28C, and highest<br />

in November when it can rise to over 30C. The<br />

rains begin in December and last until the end of<br />

May, with February and April being the wettest<br />

months. Southern Mozambique has a dry season<br />

which runs from April to October. The coolest<br />

months of July and August have temperatures of<br />

about 25C whilst October can be about 30C.<br />

The rains start in November and run to the end<br />

of March with the rainiest months being January<br />

and February.<br />

Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 14 hours<br />

Prices<br />

Mozambique Explorer<br />

The Mozambique Explorer will suit those who<br />

want to do more than sit on a beach. This trip<br />

allows you to enjoy some wild game viewing,<br />

explore the ruined city on Ibo Island, integrate<br />

yourself into the community at Guludo, and, of<br />

course, swim and snorkel as much as you choose.<br />

You will hop between each location in light aircraft,<br />

enjoying spectacular views as you go. Seafood is<br />

excellent on the islands and you’ll enjoy some<br />

wonderful meals.<br />

Day 1<br />

Johannesburg<br />

Days 2-5<br />

Days 6-8<br />

Days 9-11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Fly from the UK to<br />

Johannesburg overnight.<br />

Fly from Johannesburg to Pemba.<br />

Fly to the Niassa Game Reserve for<br />

three nights at Lugenda Camp.<br />

Game viewing in the Niassa Reserve.<br />

Fly to Ibo Island for three nights at<br />

Ibo Island Lodge. Explore Ibo Island,<br />

swim and snorkel from sandbanks<br />

and coral islands.<br />

Boat transfer to Guludo Beach Lodge<br />

for three nights. Swim, snorkel and<br />

relax at Guludo.<br />

Road transfer to Pemba and fly to<br />

Johannesburg. Fly from Johannesburg<br />

to the UK overnight.<br />

Arrive in the UK in the early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Mozambique combines well with a safari in<br />

Botswana, Namibia or Zambia. You can spend a<br />

week or longer in the large game reserves in any<br />

of these countries before flying to Mozambique.<br />

A night in Johannesburg is required in between,<br />

and we minimise your time here, flying you into<br />

Jo’burg at dusk and out to Mozambique at dawn.<br />

Due to good flight connections you can be on<br />

safari in Botswana in the morning and enjoying a<br />

large seafood lunch in Mozambique the next day.<br />

Bazaruto Beaches<br />

This itinerary allows you to spend time in one of<br />

the most unspoiled beach destinations in Africa.<br />

Basing yourself at Marlin Lodge, you will be able to<br />

enjoy endless activities. Both divers and snorkellers<br />

can marvel at the diverse coral and sponges as<br />

well as a myriad of reef fish and turtles. Sunset<br />

dhow cruises with a bottle of chilled wine are very<br />

relaxing, as is time in the spa at Marlin Lodge. You<br />

may wish to visit the market at Vilanculos, climb a<br />

sand dune or take a picnic to a remote beach.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Johannesburg<br />

Fly from the UK to<br />

Johannesburg overnight.<br />

Fly from Johannesburg to Vilanculos<br />

Road and boat transfer from<br />

Vilanculos to Benguerra Island for<br />

eight nights at Marlin Lodge. Swim,<br />

snorkel and dive on the offshore<br />

reefs. Walk and enjoy<br />

picnics on Benguerra Island.<br />

Boat and road transfer to Vilanculos<br />

Airport. Fly to Johannesburg and then<br />

to the UK overnight.<br />

Arrive back in the UK in the<br />

early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

The Bazaruto Archipelago combines well with<br />

time in the Gorongosa National Park. Most<br />

people like to enjoy a safari before time on<br />

the beach so we would suggest flying from<br />

Johannesburg to Gorongosa. The tented camp,<br />

Explore Gorongosa, has outstanding guiding and<br />

service. You will be able to enjoy both game<br />

drives and walking safaris as well as learning about<br />

the game relocation project currently underway.<br />

After time in the park, you can fly directly to<br />

Bazaruto for your beach stay.<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Mozambique on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Dining on the rooftop at Ibo Island Lodge<br />

The pool at Lugenda Camp<br />

www.audleytravel.com/mozambique ● 01993 838 560 ● Mozambique 71


Tanzania<br />

Tanzania contains the very best of<br />

East Africa’s attractions, combining<br />

large national parks and dense animal<br />

populations with pristine beaches. It is vast,<br />

vibrant and a photographer’s paradise.<br />

To the north, wildebeest and zebra flood<br />

the Serengeti plains each year. Flamingos<br />

blanket the lakes in shimmering pinks,<br />

herds of elephants roam the savannah,<br />

and Maasai herders walk with their cattle.<br />

The snow-capped peak of Mount<br />

Kilimanjaro is Africa’s highest point. To the<br />

south lie remote reserves, where wild dogs<br />

make dens, thousands of buffalo graze and<br />

lakes and rivers house hippos and crocodiles.<br />

Away from the savannah, towering<br />

mountains are entangled in thick rainforest.<br />

Emerald leaves drip with dew, birds and<br />

monkeys cackle and shrieks of chimpanzees<br />

slice the air. Perfect for post-safari<br />

relaxation are the tropical islands and<br />

colourful villages of the Zanzibar and<br />

Mafia archipelagos. Miles of white sand<br />

are flanked by coconut palms, small fishing<br />

villages tucked underneath. Dhows sail over<br />

turquoise waters, whilst iridescent tropical<br />

fish swim around the rich coral reefs.<br />

72


<strong>Audley</strong> in Tanzania<br />

5<br />

6<br />

1<br />

4<br />

2<br />

7<br />

Tanzania is a vast country with a dizzying<br />

array of options. It is impossible to see<br />

everything that the country has to offer in<br />

one trip, so we recommend focusing on<br />

just one or two areas. In northern Tanzania<br />

the parks such as the Ngorongoro Crater<br />

and Serengeti are well known and can be<br />

busy. Through extensive travel in this region,<br />

we have found a way to avoid other<br />

visitors and stay in quiet areas. Whilst many<br />

visitors simply drive around, we give you<br />

the freedom to explore on foot along<br />

paths that only the Maasai know, and to<br />

camp in magical spots surrounded by game.<br />

3<br />

In southern Tanzania, we know the Selous<br />

and Ruaha inside-out. We have hand picked<br />

camps with the best locations and expert<br />

guides and can seamlessly combine all the<br />

parks with Tanzania’s beaches and islands.<br />

On Zanzibar we work with local guides and<br />

a small number of hotels whose owners we<br />

know personally. Small lodges on the Mafia<br />

Islands and the coast of northern Tanzania<br />

are ideal for those looking for a really<br />

remote place to stay on an idyllic beach.<br />

Whatever you’d like to do in Tanzania, our<br />

team can tailor a trip suited to you.<br />

1 Serengeti National Park<br />

Tanzania’s most famous<br />

national park, where the Great<br />

Migration herds roam for most<br />

of the year.<br />

2 Ngorongoro Crater<br />

A volcanic caldera where you<br />

can enjoy some of the best<br />

game viewing in Tanzania in a<br />

short timeframe.<br />

3 Selous Game Reserve<br />

With Tanzania’s largest wild dog<br />

population and huge herds of<br />

elephants, this is a superb and<br />

wild area to explore on safari.<br />

Lion in the Serengeti<br />

Mongoose<br />

4 Ruaha National Park 7 Zanzibar Archipelago<br />

Another gem in Southern<br />

Tanzania with vast open plains,<br />

huge buffalo herds and good<br />

lion populations.<br />

Beautiful spice islands with<br />

idyllic sandy beaches and<br />

accessible coral reefs for<br />

snorkelling and diving.<br />

5 Mahale Mountains<br />

On the shores of Lake<br />

Tanganyika, rainforest-clad<br />

mountains provide a refuge<br />

for chimpanzees.<br />

6 Katavi National Park<br />

One of the country’s wildest<br />

and most remote national parks.<br />

Lovebird<br />

Accommodation<br />

Throughout Tanzania, we use a variety of<br />

lodges and camps, ranging in comfort but<br />

always in a good location so that you can<br />

enjoy the wildlife and stunning views. Our<br />

preference is for the smaller properties,<br />

where you can be assured of personal<br />

service and attention to detail. We can find<br />

you an authentic safari camp in which to<br />

experience the magic of waking to the<br />

sunrise in your tent, or if you’d prefer, a<br />

luxurious tree-top lodge. On the beach, we<br />

have found simple cottages perched on vast<br />

stretches of white sand as well as stylish<br />

lodges on private islands.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Tanzania, please<br />

see pages 90-91.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Tanzania<br />

specialists 01993 838 545<br />

Tanzania 73


Sunset in the Serengeti<br />

Serengeti National Park<br />

The Serengeti is synonymous with stamping<br />

hooves of wildebeest, vast golden savannah plains,<br />

and some of Tanzania’s most prolific wildlife.<br />

This is Africa’s most famous and fabulous game<br />

reserve. Subject of countless documentaries, the<br />

Serengeti does not disappoint in reality. Each year,<br />

up to two million wildebeest, zebra and gazelle<br />

snake their way across the plains following the<br />

promise of rain, forming one of the world’s<br />

greatest wildlife spectacles. Even without the<br />

migration, the Serengeti’s wildlife is unparalleled.<br />

Lion are practically a certainty, often seen<br />

lounging on the rocky kopjes. Cheetah pace the<br />

plains or stand atop termite mounds, and leopard<br />

lounge in the dappled shade of the sausage trees.<br />

OLAKIRA MOBILE CAMP,<br />

SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK<br />

A classic mobile safari camp, Olakira moves<br />

around the Serengeti throughout the year in<br />

order to be best situated for the Great Migration<br />

herds. Large walk-in tents with proper beds,<br />

lights and en suite bathrooms with bucket<br />

showers make this a comfortable place to rest<br />

after an exhilarating day on safari. Lunches are<br />

served under the boughs of an acacia tree,<br />

enjoying uninterrupted views across the vast<br />

savannah. This is one of our favourite camps,<br />

offering great food, knowledgeable guides and,<br />

most importantly, a superb location for your<br />

safari in the Serengeti.<br />

Olakira Mobile Camp<br />

Ballooning in the Serengeti<br />

74<br />

Cheetah


Bateleur eagle<br />

Game drive in the Serengeti<br />

Giraffe browsing<br />

Leopard climbing a tree<br />

NOMAD SERENGETI SAFARI CAMP,<br />

SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK<br />

With only eight luxury tents, this specialist mobile<br />

safari camp offers a wonderfully comfortable base<br />

for exploring the Serengeti. Moving around the<br />

park throughout the year to follow the migration,<br />

it is always well placed for game viewing. The<br />

camp provides each couple or group with a<br />

private guide, allowing you to plan your days<br />

around your interests. This is particularly useful<br />

for keen photographers as it allows ample time for<br />

wildlife photography. In the evenings, stories of the<br />

day’s adventures are shared around the campfire<br />

before a hearty dinner under the African sky.<br />

KLEIN’S CAMP, SERENGETI<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Bordering the northeastern edge of the Serengeti,<br />

Klein’s camp sits on a hillside overlooking the<br />

valleys and plains that stretch to the Kenyan<br />

border. With only ten thatched chalets, this is<br />

one of the smallest and most exclusive camps in<br />

the park. It offers guests the chance to explore<br />

not only on daytime game drives, but also night<br />

drives and guided walks in the camp’s private<br />

reserve. The area is superb for elephant and large<br />

buffalo herds, and really comes into its own<br />

during July and October when the migration<br />

herds pass through.<br />

Sayari Camp<br />

Nomad Serengeti Safari Camp<br />

SAYARI CAMP, SERENGETI<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Overlooking the Mara River in the far north of<br />

the Serengeti, Sayari has a commanding position<br />

and sweeping views. The luxurious tents are vast,<br />

based on wooden platforms, and stylishly<br />

designed with real attention to detail, down to<br />

the cosy daybed on your balcony, just perfect for<br />

relaxing and enjoying the wildlife as it wanders<br />

past. This area of the national park is quiet and<br />

unspoilt, allowing you to enjoy the wildlife with<br />

only the sounds of birds to disturb you. It’s a very<br />

tranquil place to stay and ideal for those looking<br />

to really get away from it all.<br />

Klein’s Camp<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 75


The Great Migration<br />

Migrating zebra and wildebeest<br />

The savannah plains stretching from Kenya’s<br />

Masai Mara to Tanzania’s Serengeti set the scene<br />

for one of the world’s greatest wildlife spectacles;<br />

the annual migration of more than two million<br />

wildebeest, zebra and gazelle. Lion, leopard,<br />

cheetah and hyena wait in great anticipation for<br />

the arrival of the herds, ready to single out a<br />

weak or vulnerable animal for an easy dinner.<br />

This is the Africa that wildlife documentaries are<br />

made of, and no matter whether you have been<br />

on one or a dozen safaris, there is little to<br />

compare to the spectacle of the migration<br />

herds and the drama that surrounds them.<br />

Practicalities for your Great<br />

Migration safari<br />

The migration can either be viewed from Kenya<br />

from about July to October or Tanzania from<br />

November to June. Although you may think it<br />

Jackal on a wildebeest kill<br />

Game driving amongst the herds<br />

would be difficult to miss two million<br />

wildebeest, sightings of the migration herds can<br />

never be guaranteed as the herds’ movements<br />

depends on their biological clock, the level of<br />

grazing, and timing and amount of rainfall.<br />

Whilst they follow a rough annual pattern it can<br />

change all the time. That said, our team knows<br />

the parks well and can choose camps in the<br />

correct location to maximise your chances of<br />

finding the herds.<br />

Mobile camps<br />

Staying in one of the Serengeti’s mobile safari<br />

camps is one of the best ways to see the<br />

migration. Moving every couple of months to<br />

locate themselves as close as possible to the<br />

herds, these camps offer the best chance of<br />

finding them during your safari. Due to the<br />

impermanent nature of the camps, don’t<br />

expect the ultimate luxury. This is all about an<br />

authentic safari experience and getting as close<br />

as you can to the wildlife. Your tent will have a<br />

comfortable bed, en suite bathroom with a<br />

bucket shower, a basin with a jug of warm water<br />

each morning and evening and hurricane lamps<br />

at night. As well as giving you an excellent<br />

location, sleeping under canvas and waking to<br />

the sunrise is one of the best ways to enjoy the<br />

magic of the Serengeti.<br />

River crossings<br />

The wildlife documentaries make watching a<br />

river crossing look easy. In reality, filmmakers<br />

spend months and even years waiting to be in<br />

the right place at the right time to capture the<br />

moment. Whilst seeing a river crossing is really<br />

the icing on the cake for most safari-goers, it’s<br />

important to be aware that the herds often<br />

spend weeks at the riverbanks contemplating<br />

the crossing. So unless you have endless time<br />

and money to spend waiting patiently, you will<br />

have to rely on luck and good timing if you hope<br />

to catch a crossing. If you want to maximise your<br />

chances of this, we would recommend staying in<br />

the Northern Serengeti in July, or in the Masai<br />

Mara in August or September.<br />

76


Wildebeest crossing the Mara River<br />

Wildebeest waiting to cross the Mara River<br />

Lion on a kill<br />

The Migration Calendar<br />

December to May – Breeding and Calving<br />

The cycle begins each year in the warm, dusty<br />

plains of the southern Serengeti, where almost<br />

half a million wildebeest are born between<br />

December and March. Up on their feet almost<br />

the moment they hit the ground, they ready<br />

themselves for the greatest journey of their lives.<br />

During these months, the herds are not on the<br />

move, but are gathering strength, grazing on the<br />

Ndutu Plains before the long rains arrive in April<br />

and May, turning the park green overnight.<br />

June – The Journey North<br />

As June arrives and the rains cease, the herds<br />

begin to sweep steadily through the savannah.<br />

Long ribbons of wildebeest, zebra and gazelle<br />

snake their way through tall grass, weaving their<br />

way towards the Grumeti River. Here, enormous<br />

crocodiles lie in wait, snapping their jaws on the<br />

riverbanks, a terrifying prospect for the herds<br />

to overcome.<br />

July – Crossing the Mara River<br />

As the plains become increasingly parched,<br />

thousands of stampeding hooves march<br />

northwards to the Masai Mara, where the great<br />

wall of the rift valley traps any final drops of rain.<br />

By July, the front-runners of the herds are<br />

preparing to cross the Mara River, whilst the<br />

rear-guard may be as far south as the Grumeti.<br />

The Mara River brings the herds to a halt, whilst<br />

they contemplate their fate. Strong currents,<br />

crocodiles and hippos provide a serious obstacle<br />

to reaching the lush grass on the opposite<br />

riverbank – this is the ultimate test for the herds.<br />

The animals can often wait for two weeks before<br />

crossing, approaching the river and turning back<br />

at the last moment with a kick of the heels and a<br />

puff of dust. Eventually, one brave wildebeest will<br />

take the plunge, followed swiftly by thousands,<br />

swimming desperately across the river.<br />

August to October – Grazing in<br />

Kenya’s Masai Mara<br />

By August and September, the migration is<br />

safely in the Masai Mara in Kenya, where the<br />

water provides fresh grazing throughout the lean<br />

months of the dry season. The herds move<br />

around the reserve, crossing the Talek and Mara<br />

rivers constantly in search of water and grass.<br />

This is also a feasting time for the big cats of the<br />

Masai Mara, making it a truly exciting time to be<br />

on safari here.<br />

November – The Journey South<br />

November brings the short rains, and new life to<br />

the grasslands of the southern Serengeti. The<br />

wildebeest, able to detect rain from more than<br />

50 kilometres away, return south, completing the<br />

circle. The two million pairs of hooves thunder<br />

through the Loliondo, Lobo and Piaya regions of<br />

the Northern Serengeti until they finally reach the<br />

rich volcanic soil of the Ndutu Plains once again.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 77


Zebra in the Ngorongoro Crater<br />

Ngorongoro Crater<br />

The Ngorongoro Crater is the world’s largest<br />

intact volcanic caldera and one of the most<br />

evocative landmarks of the Great Rift Valley. It<br />

provides an extraordinary natural sanctuary for<br />

some of Africa’s densest populations of large<br />

mammals. This is the best place in Tanzania to<br />

see black rhino, against the dramatic backdrop of<br />

the 600 metre high crater wall. The grassy plains<br />

host thousands of zebra, buffalo, wildebeest and<br />

Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelle. Elephant roam the<br />

Lerai Forest, and lion and leopard complete the<br />

big five. The wildlife here has to be seen to be<br />

believed, and makes the Ngorongoro Crater an<br />

unmissable part of the northern safari circuit.<br />

GIBBS FARM,<br />

NGORONGORO HIGHLANDS<br />

Surrounded by coffee plantations in the heart of<br />

the Ngorongoro Highlands, this is a working farm<br />

on which acres of organic fruit, vegetables and<br />

flowers are grown. Eighteen luxurious cottages<br />

are dotted around the farm, all enjoying views of<br />

the lush vegetation and tropical flowers. Each has<br />

been tastefully decorated with bright African<br />

fabrics, fireplaces to ward off cool evenings and<br />

spacious bathrooms with outdoor showers.<br />

Aside from visits to the Crater there are plenty<br />

of activities ranging from walks in the forests to<br />

visits to local Iraqw villages.<br />

PLANTATION LODGE,<br />

NGORONGORO HIGHLANDS<br />

Plantation Lodge is a charming small property<br />

tucked away in the Ngorongoro Highlands near<br />

the colourful village of Karatu. There are 16<br />

rooms spread out amongst the pretty gardens,<br />

and all are spacious and comfortable. The staff are<br />

friendly and welcoming, and the swimming pool<br />

offers a lovely place to relax when you’re not out<br />

on safari. Food is tasty and home-cooked, and<br />

both the Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara<br />

are easily accessible as day trips from the lodge.<br />

NGORONGORO CRATER LODGE,<br />

NGORONGORO CRATER<br />

Easily one of East Africa’s most luxurious safari<br />

lodges, the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge has a<br />

commanding position perched on the edge of<br />

the crater rim. The twelve lavish suites in North<br />

and South camp and the six suites in Tree Camp<br />

are fitted with antique furniture, thick rugs,<br />

chandeliers and claw footed baths in oak panelled<br />

bathrooms. Each suite is complete with a personal<br />

butler to light the fire, put fresh water in the<br />

flowers and serve drinks. The views from every<br />

suite and the opulently designed dining rooms<br />

are simply breathtaking.<br />

The pool at Plantation Lodge<br />

78<br />

The dining room at Ngorongoro Crater Lodge


Black rhino in the Ngorongoro Crater<br />

Flamingos on Lake Manyara<br />

Game drive in Tarangire National Park<br />

Lake Manyara Tree Lodge<br />

Manyara National Park<br />

One of Northern Tanzania’s smallest but prettiest<br />

national parks, Lake Manyara is situated at the<br />

base of the Rift Valley Escarpment. The alkaline<br />

lake is often covered in clouds of pink lesser<br />

flamingos, and is surrounded by marshland<br />

where hippos and buffalo wallow in the shallows.<br />

The diversity of vegetation here is remarkable,<br />

with grassy floodplains, acacia woodland and<br />

hot springs. Manyara is most famous for its<br />

tree-climbing lions, but has plenty of other wildlife<br />

to enjoy too, including prolific elephant, buffalo,<br />

zebra and giraffe. Birdlife here is also superb, with<br />

almost 400 recorded species including iridescent<br />

bee-eaters and silvery-cheeked hornbills.<br />

LAKE MANYARA TREE LODGE,<br />

MANYARA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Tucked away in the lush forest, this small luxurious<br />

lodge is the only accommodation within the park.<br />

Guests stay in one of ten treehouses, sitting high<br />

in the mahogany trees, with large verandahs,<br />

polished hardwood floors and pure cotton linen.<br />

Service and food here are excellent, with<br />

sumptuous meals eaten by candlelight in the open<br />

air boma. This is one of our favourite properties in<br />

Tanzania and is certainly a highlight for any safari.<br />

Lovebirds<br />

Oliver’s Camp<br />

Dwarf mongoose in Tarangire<br />

Tarangire National Park<br />

Tarangire really comes to life in the dry season,<br />

with water-seeking wildlife attracted to the<br />

abundant Tarangire River. The most impressive<br />

of the migratory mammals is the elephant, which<br />

congregates in large herds along the riverbanks –<br />

it is possible to see more than 500 in a day.<br />

Buffalo, zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, eland and impala<br />

are all found in good numbers on the grassy<br />

plains and the lush swamps are a year-round<br />

attraction, particularly for birdwatchers, with<br />

more than 550 recorded species. Ancient baobab<br />

trees dot the plains and in the distance, the Ol<br />

Doinyo L’Engai volcano makes a dramatic<br />

backdrop for photographers.<br />

OLIVER’S CAMP, TARANGIRE<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Located in the heart of Tarangire, Oliver’s<br />

Camp offers an excellent base for exploration<br />

of the park. With just eight luxury tents, this is a<br />

small and intimate camp where guests enjoy<br />

dining under the stars and waking as the sun rises<br />

over the park. As well as game drives, guided<br />

walking safaris can also be arranged to fully<br />

explore this stunning park. The mess tent is full<br />

of comfortable chairs and a cup of hot tea or a<br />

glass of ice-cold gin and tonic is always on hand<br />

after a long day on safari.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 79


Lion in a tree<br />

The Selous Game Reserve<br />

The Selous stretches for over 45,000 square<br />

kilometres. It is Africa’s largest game reserve yet<br />

visited by few. Meandering through the plains<br />

and woodlands, the Rufiji River gives rise to a<br />

labyrinth of streams, channels and pretty lakes in<br />

a delicate water paradise. Skeletal leadwood<br />

trees stand in glassy lagoons where terrapins<br />

ripple the surface. There are pods of hippo,<br />

rainbow-coloured birds and flitting butterflies on<br />

yellow cassia flowers. It is a vast wilderness area<br />

and superb for photography. The reserve is home<br />

to abundant game, with Africa’s largest buffalo<br />

and lion populations, numerous leopard and<br />

thriving packs of wild dog. Wildebeest, zebra,<br />

impala, hartebeest, greater kudu and eland are<br />

all common. In the heat of the afternoon, herds<br />

of over fifty giraffe drink from the lakes whilst<br />

elephant herds cross the channels to the lush<br />

islands. Boat trips are a speciality in the Selous<br />

and floating quietly along on the water is magical.<br />

You will see yellow-billed storks nesting in<br />

borassus palms and white-crowned plovers<br />

cleaning the teeth of crocodiles. The riverine<br />

forest is perfect for gentle rambles in search of<br />

blue samango monkeys and black and white<br />

colobus. Driving in open 4x4’s you will see<br />

plenty of game but no other vehicles, as the<br />

Selous is a very peaceful park with only a<br />

handful of small camps.<br />

80<br />

Selous Impala Camp<br />

LAKE MANZE CAMP, SELOUS<br />

GAME RESERVE<br />

This camp has 12 simple tents on the shores<br />

of Lake Manze. Shaded by doum palms and<br />

terminalia trees, all are well spread out and<br />

have lake views. Inside, each tent is furnished<br />

with double or twin beds and has an en suite<br />

bathroom with flush toilet and hot shower.<br />

A patio at the front of each room is the perfect<br />

spot for reading a book in the early afternoon<br />

and watching the hippos and herons at the<br />

lakeshore. The camp is ideal for first time visitors<br />

to Africa as guests can enjoy a variety of activities<br />

including game drives, boat safaris and early<br />

morning walks.<br />

SELOUS IMPALA CAMP, SELOUS<br />

GAME RESERVE<br />

Selous Impala Camp is set among borassus palms<br />

and tamarind trees on the banks of the Rufiji<br />

River. As there are no fences, game is free to<br />

wander through the camp and therefore guests<br />

are escorted to their tents in the evenings by<br />

Maasai warriors. The camp has eight luxury tents<br />

set on high wood decking with views of the river<br />

and the forest beyond. They are furnished in a<br />

colonial style and have bedrooms, a dressing<br />

room and an en suite bathroom. In the centre of<br />

camp the thatched boma houses a dining room<br />

and bar. Nearby is a sheltered swimming pool.<br />

Activities include boat trips, game drives and<br />

walking safaris.<br />

Game drive from Lake Manze Camp


Kudu in the Selous<br />

Hyena on a buffalo carcass<br />

Hippo beside the Rufiji River<br />

Dining at Beho Beho<br />

Elephant in the Selous<br />

Selous Safari Camp<br />

SELOUS SAFARI CAMP, SELOUS<br />

GAME RESERVE<br />

Selous Safari Camp was one of the first camps<br />

in the Selous and has one of the prime positions<br />

in the park on the fringes of Lake Nzelekela.<br />

The 12 luxurious tents are some of the largest<br />

in Africa, tailored specifically for the camp with<br />

huge gauze windows looking onto the lake.<br />

Inside, the tents are elegantly furnished and have<br />

well-appointed en suite bathrooms with outdoor<br />

showers. The lounge and dining room are raised<br />

above the trees on stilts to maximise the breeze<br />

in hotter months and there is a small pool tucked<br />

into the bush. With plenty of activities on offer,<br />

this is one of our favourite camps in the Selous.<br />

BEHO BEHO CAMP, SELOUS<br />

GAME RESERVE<br />

Set up amongst the hills, Beho Beho has a unique<br />

vantage point overlooking the Beho Beho Plains.<br />

It is the most luxurious camp in the Selous with<br />

large stone cottages beautifully designed and<br />

furnished with no expense spared. At the front<br />

of each cottage a huge open window has no<br />

gauze or glass – just panoramic views. Guests can<br />

choose to leave this open to the stars at night or<br />

have thick canvas drapes tied down to feel more<br />

secure. The true magic of Beho Beho however is<br />

not the lodge but the exceptional quality of the<br />

guides. After each game drive you’ll come away<br />

knowing something new.<br />

Boat trip from Sand Rivers<br />

View from a room at Sand Rivers<br />

SAND RIVERS, SELOUS<br />

GAME RESERVE<br />

With eight rooms, Sand Rivers is the smallest<br />

camp in the Selous. Situated on a wide curve in<br />

the Rufiji River, all the rooms look over the water.<br />

Each room is open on one side and has large<br />

beds, nets and en suite bathrooms with polished<br />

stone floors. It’s not unusual for birds to flit in<br />

and out and look at themselves in the bathroom<br />

mirror. During a stay at Sand Rivers, a private<br />

guide is always provided. You can take a boat trip<br />

up to Steigler’s Gorge, walk on the open plains,<br />

swim in the Tagalala hot springs and enjoy trips<br />

by open 4x4 vehicles.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 81


Zebra on the plains<br />

The Ruaha National Park<br />

In the heart of southern Tanzania, the Ruaha<br />

National Park has a hot dry climate and<br />

dramatic scenery. The Ruaha River runs along<br />

the park’s southeast border, tumbling over<br />

boulders and flanked by riparian woodland. Lion<br />

can be seen stretched out in the sun on the<br />

sandbanks, elephant drink from the water.<br />

Flocks of yellow-collared lovebirds swoop from<br />

bush to bush. Game is prolific with many<br />

ungulates present, including impala, waterbuck,<br />

bushbuck, giraffe, zebra and buffalo. Both greater<br />

and lesser kudu are here, as are roan and sable<br />

antelope. There are large prides of lion, spotted<br />

and striped hyena, several packs of wild dog, and<br />

leopard. The birdlife is particularly colourful and<br />

it is not unusual to spot many species while<br />

sitting in camp, such as emerald spotted doves,<br />

brown parrots and crested barbets. Activities in<br />

Ruaha focus on game drives although walking<br />

is also possible.<br />

Kwihala<br />

82<br />

MWAGUSI CAMP, RUAHA<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Mwagusi Camp is a small tented camp on the<br />

banks of the dry Mwagusi River. Owned and run<br />

by naturalist Chris Fox, this camp is comfortable<br />

but the focus is not on frills and luxury. Chris’s<br />

passion is for wildlife and this is what this camp is<br />

all about – it’s ideal for experienced safari hands<br />

and animal enthusiasts. The nine tents are shaded<br />

by thatch and have beds, nets, en suite bathrooms<br />

and verandas with comfy chairs. It is lovely sitting<br />

on your veranda and watching the birds hopping<br />

about in the trees above you. Activities are well<br />

organised at Mwagusi with both guides and<br />

spotters on the game viewing vehicles, and<br />

guiding of a high standard.<br />

KWIHALA, RUAHA<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Kwihala offers luxury in Ruaha, and has six<br />

spacious safari tents. There are plenty of charming<br />

small touches in the tents, from the hand-printed<br />

baobab bedspreads to beaded door handles.<br />

Outside, a covered veranda area is insect-proofed<br />

and protected from the elements by a fly sheet.<br />

The spacious mess tent is the main social centre of<br />

the camp. Separate dining and relaxing areas create<br />

a homely feel although canvas walls and open sides<br />

leave you with no doubt that you’re in the bush.<br />

With good guides this camp is ideal for those<br />

looking to explore Ruaha from a comfortable base.<br />

Mwagusi Camp<br />

MDONYA OLD RIVER CAMP,<br />

RUAHA NATIONAL PARK<br />

This wild camp has 11 tents situated under<br />

sycamore fig and acacia trees. With no electricity,<br />

it has the feel of an original safari camp, and is lit<br />

at night by candles, paraffin lamps and a camp fire.<br />

The dining and lounge tents overlook a dry river<br />

bed which acts as a busy wildlife corridor. There<br />

are currently two prides of lion living close to<br />

camp which can often be heard at night – this<br />

camp is not therefore suited to nervous travellers.<br />

Mdonya Old River Camp


Chimpanzee with baby in the Mahale Mountains<br />

Chada Camp<br />

Katavi National Park<br />

Deep in western Tanzania, the Katavi National<br />

Park is extremely wild. Arriving by light aircraft,<br />

you’ll pass over the Katasunga Plains before<br />

landing. Spread out before you are yellow<br />

grasslands covered with thousands of zebra,<br />

topi, buffalo and giraffe. Lions lie on the fringes,<br />

watching and waiting, shaded by mahogany trees.<br />

With only two tiny camps in a million acres,<br />

Katavi sees few visitors and you can have an<br />

immense wilderness all to yourself. Katavi is a<br />

classic dry season reserve. From June to October,<br />

buffalo herds of up to 3,000 graze on the plains.<br />

Game drives offer superb photographic<br />

opportunities whilst walks beside sluggish rivers<br />

are exciting, with large crocodiles hiding in<br />

mudholes. As the sun falls low in the sky, a visit<br />

to the hippo pool, where 600 hippos live, is<br />

perfect for a sundowner.<br />

CHADA CAMP, KATAVI<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Chada Camp is hidden by sausage trees and<br />

overlooks the plains. The six safari tents have high<br />

beds, simple furniture and are decked with bright<br />

East African fabrics. Outside each, there is a<br />

simple tin basin and small washstand. A little way<br />

behind each tent is a private bathroom, made of<br />

reed, sticks and soft grass. The main dining area<br />

is under canvas and strewn with books, maps,<br />

seedpods and a big chest full of drinks. Not<br />

fenced, it’s wonderfully wild and old-fashioned.<br />

Accompanied by top guides, both walks and<br />

drives are excellent.<br />

Mahale Mountains Park<br />

Shadowing the dusky blue waters of Lake<br />

Tanganyika, the Mahale Mountains are dramatic<br />

and imposing. Jagged peaks of over 2,000 metres<br />

soar into the clouds and are covered in canopy<br />

woodland and thick montane forest. Shafts of<br />

sunlight pour through the trees into tiny gullies<br />

where pink and yellow butterflies flit and you can<br />

see each and every pebble in the crystal clear<br />

streams. The Mahale Mountains are the best<br />

place in Africa in which to track and observe wild<br />

chimpanzees. There is a population of around<br />

1,000; one troop of which, the Mimikire clan<br />

(around 70-100 individuals), have been habituated<br />

to humans and can be tracked and observed from<br />

close quarters. Climbing up the leafy tracks in the<br />

misty morning and hearing your first chimpanzee<br />

shriek is something you will never forget.<br />

Crouching low, you can watch them grooming,<br />

drinking and playing. After a morning of<br />

chimpanzee tracking you return to the shores of<br />

Lake Tanganyika, where sugar-white beaches slope<br />

into gin-clear waters. There are over 500 species<br />

of cichlid fish in the lake, and snorkelling and<br />

floating amongst them is the ultimate in relaxation.<br />

GREYSTOKE CAMP,<br />

MAHALE MOUNTAINS<br />

Greystoke Camp is situated on an idyllic white<br />

beach on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Cream<br />

safari tents under palms have deep chairs, comfy<br />

beds, tin washbasins and buckets for washing the<br />

sand off your feet. At sunrise your breakfast is<br />

cooked over a fire on the beach, after which<br />

trackers lead you into the forest in search of<br />

chimpanzees. In the afternoons you can snorkel<br />

from the camp’s beautiful dhow or enjoy a<br />

snooze on the warm deck.<br />

The dining room at Greystoke Camp<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 83


Zanzibar beach<br />

The Zanzibar Archipelago<br />

Fifty islands make up the Zanzibar archipelago,<br />

which lies in aquamarine seas under a blazing<br />

equatorial sun. Just 20 miles off the Tanzanian<br />

coast, the archipelago is easily accessible and<br />

therefore ideal for a relaxing end to a safari. The<br />

two large islands of Zanzibar and Pemba are well<br />

known and have a bustling island life, with ancient<br />

towns, small villages, spice plantations and miles<br />

of sandy beaches. Surrounding these two large<br />

islands are numerous tiny coral atolls with names<br />

such as Chumbe, Chapwani, Bawe and Mnemba.<br />

Some of these, such as Mnemba, have exclusive<br />

hotels whilst others are home only to seabirds<br />

and nesting turtles and can be reached by<br />

relaxing dhow trips. The seas are littered with<br />

reefs, with pink sea anemones swaying in warm<br />

currents and butterflyfish, angelfish and<br />

parrotfish darting between the corals.<br />

Zanzibar Island<br />

The largest of all the islands in the archipelago,<br />

Zanzibar Island is 80 kilometres long and 30<br />

kilometres wide. It is covered in coconut<br />

plantations, spice farms and lush vegetation.<br />

Pretty roads run through avenues of mangoes<br />

and the forest at Jozani, where endemic Kirk’s<br />

red colobus can be seen, while the coastline has<br />

picture perfect beaches. Miles of white sand lead<br />

into shallow turquoise water lined with offshore<br />

reefs. Small fishing villages have nets hanging from<br />

crooked wooden racks and chickens and ducks<br />

waddling about. At high tide all the dhows sail in<br />

and lively bartering for the day’s catch ensues.<br />

Zanzibar has more than just beaches, however.<br />

Monsoon winds blowing from Persia, Arabia and<br />

India have led traders to these islands for over<br />

2,000 years. In Zanzibar’s Stone Town, labyrinth<br />

alleys lead to sultans’ residences with thick stone<br />

walls and intricately carved doors. Inland, there<br />

are spice plantations where piles of curling<br />

cinnamon bark and nutmegs lie in the sun.<br />

Zanzibar is spectacular at sunset, as hundreds of<br />

dhows set sail for the night, their billowing white<br />

sails tinged pink by the sun. Relax, unwind and<br />

enjoy the view, as the warm breeze blows around<br />

you. Just a short flight from some of Tanzania’s<br />

wildest parks, Zanzibar is perhaps the ultimate<br />

finale to any safari.<br />

Seaweed farming on Zanzibar<br />

84


The game of bao The beach at Breezes Beach Club & Spa Fresh fish for sale<br />

Fishing dhows<br />

BREEZES BEACH CLUB & SPA,<br />

BWEJUU, ZANZIBAR<br />

This pretty resort has 70 rooms but manages<br />

to feel like somewhere half its size thanks to its<br />

low-key, friendly atmosphere. It stands on an<br />

idyllic stretch of beach on Zanzibar’s southeast<br />

coast. Rooms at Breezes are set in the gardens<br />

and are tastefully decorated in ivory tones, with<br />

cotton throws, teak and Zanzibari carvings. All<br />

are air-conditioned and have en suite bathrooms.<br />

There are plenty of activities on offer including<br />

diving, snorkelling, sailing and windsurfing. Those<br />

looking to relax can do so at the pool, on the<br />

beach or with a treatment in the spa. With<br />

several excellent restaurants, this hotel is very<br />

popular and many guests return year after year.<br />

Villa at The Palms<br />

BARAZA, BWEJUU, ZANZIBAR<br />

Baraza is a unique 30 villa resort built in a<br />

distinctive Zanzibari style and is an ideal place for<br />

families or groups of friends wanting to enjoy a bit<br />

of luxury. All the air-conditioned villas have one<br />

or two bedrooms, living room, dressing rooms<br />

and en suite bathrooms with a free standing tub.<br />

They are elegantly decorated with beautiful fabrics<br />

and hand-carved furniture. Outside there are<br />

shady terraces, sunloungers and a private plunge<br />

pool. Facilities at Baraza are extensive and include<br />

a swimming pool, spa, tennis court, watersports<br />

centre, PADI dive centre and boutique.<br />

Snorkelling excursions, trips to spice farms and<br />

more can all be arranged.<br />

Bar, Breezes Beach Club & Spa<br />

THE PALMS, BWEJUU, ZANZIBAR<br />

Situated in tropical gardens The Palms provides<br />

some of the most luxurious accommodation on<br />

Zanzibar. The hotel has just six villas, each<br />

wonderfully large and containing a bedroom, living<br />

room, dressing room and en suite bathroom.<br />

On the veranda, a silk-draped four-poster<br />

Zanzibari bed sits alongside a sunken plunge pool.<br />

The Palms prides itself on its cuisine and the<br />

restaurant, The Plantation House, serves excellent<br />

Swahili and international dishes. The adjacent<br />

Spice Bar is perfect for relaxing with a sundowner<br />

drink. Guests can also enjoy all the facilities at the<br />

neighbouring sister property Breezes.<br />

Baraza<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 85


Kirk’s red colobus monkey in the Jozani Forest<br />

Drying seaweed<br />

Schoolgirls walking home<br />

86<br />

Cottage at Echo Beach Hotel<br />

ECHO BEACH HOTEL,<br />

BWEJUU, ZANZIBAR<br />

Echo Beach Hotel is small, simple and will suit<br />

those looking for a quiet hideaway. It sits in five<br />

acres of gardens on Bwejuu, one of Zanzibar’s<br />

prettiest beaches, and has 12 rooms in<br />

whitewashed cottages under coconut palms.<br />

Each has a shady terrace or balcony where you<br />

can sit with a drink and watch the dhows bobbing<br />

on the horizon. The kitchen is overseen by the<br />

owner Andrew and meals are tailored to the<br />

fishermen’s daily catch, with fresh fruit and<br />

vegetables from the market also used. The lodge<br />

is ideal for those looking to relax beside a pool,<br />

although diving, dhow trips and visits to spice<br />

farms are easily arranged.<br />

UNGUJA LODGE,<br />

KIZIMKAZI, ZANZIBAR<br />

This boutique hotel is set amongst baobab and<br />

mango trees which are popular with red colobus<br />

monkeys. Run by Elies Hagedoorn along strong<br />

ethical principles, this lodge is not only welcoming<br />

but well integrated into the local Kizimkazi<br />

community. There are ten villas, a restaurant, bar,<br />

swimming pool and Five-Star PADI dive centre.<br />

All the villas have a bedroom, sitting room,<br />

en suite bathroom and a second floor where<br />

children can sleep. Private terraces overlook the<br />

sea or gardens. The lodge is ideally suited to<br />

families or those wanting to enjoy lots of activities<br />

including diving, snorkelling, dolphin watching and<br />

guided village tours.<br />

The pool at Unguja Lodge


Stone Town from the sea<br />

Fresh nutmeg Arabica Room at the Zanzibar Palace Hotel Zanzibari door<br />

Stone Town, Zanzibar<br />

Flanked on two sides by the sea, Stone Town is<br />

a place that divides opinion. Many are enchanted<br />

by the heavily laden dhows that sail in and out<br />

of port, and the tall crumbling buildings and<br />

labyrinthine streets lined with tiny shops. Others<br />

dislike the bustle of so many people, the dirt,<br />

noise and commotion. Whatever your opinion, it<br />

is likely to be a strong one – Stone Town leaves<br />

nobody ambivalent. Much of the town was built<br />

in the 19th century and remains unchanged to<br />

this day. A maze of alleyways lead between tall<br />

houses and palaces whose intricately carved<br />

wooden doors have brass studs and heavy locks.<br />

There is no room for cars in these streets so<br />

exploring is done on foot. There is plenty to see,<br />

from museums to the early morning market<br />

which is as busy as it is colourful. Hessian sacks<br />

overflow with black pepper, turmeric, cinnamon<br />

and vanilla and traders sell everything from fresh<br />

ginger to huge fish. At the end of the day, you<br />

might choose to stroll to the Forodhani Gardens.<br />

As the sun sets, street vendors light fires and<br />

braziers, on which they grill squid, octopus and<br />

lobster. Enjoy a snack or two before heading off<br />

to one of Stone Town’s excellent restaurants.<br />

ZANZIBAR PALACE HOTEL,<br />

STONE TOWN<br />

Tucked away in the Kiponda area of Stone<br />

Town this hotel is in a beautifully restored<br />

Zanzibari house. Owners Co and Frans aim to<br />

provide a personal service, getting to know<br />

guests themselves and making sure they are well<br />

looked after. Each of the nine bedrooms has its<br />

own character, but all are decorated in Swahili<br />

style. Carved dark wood, stained glass, and<br />

jewel-coloured drapes are dotted around the<br />

hotel, giving it a modern-day Arabian Nights feel.<br />

The hotel is close to the main shopping streets<br />

and is within easy walking distance of some<br />

good local restaurants.<br />

BEIT AL CHAI, STONE TOWN<br />

Beit Al Chai has been sympathetically converted<br />

from its original use as a Swahili teahouse. It is<br />

located on a corner in Stone Town’s pretty Kelele<br />

Square which is shaded by hibiscus and tamarind<br />

trees and is a peaceful spot. The hotel has six en<br />

suite bedrooms furnished with antiques dating<br />

back to the days of the Swahili Empire. There is a<br />

small breakfast courtyard, and drinks are available<br />

in the living room. If your feet are too tired from<br />

exploring to go out for dinner, the hotel has a<br />

new restaurant with an Arabic theme, offering an<br />

upmarket dining experience.<br />

Room at The Serena Inn<br />

SERENA INN, STONE TOWN<br />

The Serena occupies a prime location perched<br />

between the town and the sea. It is an attractive<br />

building converted from the old doctor’s house.<br />

There are polished marble floors, sweeping<br />

staircases, a lovely seaview restaurant and big<br />

swimming pool. The rooms are comfortable with<br />

air-conditioning, en suite bathrooms and large<br />

balconies. At sunset, dhows frequently sail past<br />

the hotel.<br />

Beit al Chai<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 87


School girls on the beach<br />

A beach suite at Fundu Lagoon<br />

Pemba Island<br />

About 80 kilometres northeast of Zanzibar,<br />

Pemba is quiet and undeveloped. It has a gentle<br />

hilly landscape and has always been seen as a<br />

more fertile place than its larger neighbour. The<br />

early Arab sailors called it ‘El Huthera’, meaning<br />

‘The Green’. <strong>Travel</strong>ling across Pemba, you are<br />

immediately struck by the number of rural farming<br />

and fishing villages. At harvest time, great swathes<br />

of cloves lie drying in the sun and fill the air with<br />

their scent. Mangos in piles over six feet high wait<br />

by the roadsides to be trucked to the port at<br />

Mkoani and then shipped over to the mainland.<br />

Fields are dotted with women in bright kangas<br />

attending to crops while wooden pirogues and<br />

dhows glide gently over the turquoise seas.<br />

Pemba has few lodges and nearly all of the<br />

beaches are deserted. Offshore, coral islands have<br />

white sand and nesting turtles at night. The deep<br />

Pemba Channel is rich with coral reefs and offers<br />

some of the best diving in East Africa.<br />

88<br />

FUNDU LAGOON, PEMBA ISLAND<br />

Fundu Lagoon is a stylish property that is ideal<br />

for honeymooners looking for a quiet hideaway.<br />

Situated on a long beach flanked by mangrove, it<br />

has a large jetty stretching over the water with a<br />

bar halfway along it. There are eighteen designer<br />

tents, set under makuti roofs on wooden decks.<br />

The rooms have stylish décor and en suite<br />

bathrooms with a selection of aromatherapy<br />

soaps and lotions. Fundu’s main areas are all built<br />

under thatch and are large and airy, overlooking<br />

the sea. There is a dive centre, small spa and<br />

infinity pool on the hillside with spectacular<br />

views over the coast.<br />

Manta Resort<br />

MANTA RESORT, PEMBA ISLAND<br />

Manta Resort is situated on the northern tip of<br />

Pemba on arguably its best beach. It is a stylish,<br />

20 bedroom property set in pretty gardens. The<br />

best rooms overlook the sea and have large airy<br />

bedrooms leading onto sunny verandas. This is a<br />

wonderful place to relax, either with an ice cold<br />

drink in the heat of the day or a glass of wine at<br />

night. In the centre of the resort, a small spa<br />

offers relaxing treatments and the good sized<br />

pool is ideal for relaxing beside with a book.<br />

There are plenty of activities including diving,<br />

snorkelling and dhow sailing. As the sun sets you<br />

can make your way to the quirky beach bar on<br />

the sand for a cocktail before dinner.


The beach at Kinasi Lodge<br />

The Mafia Archipelago<br />

The Mafia islands lie quietly in the Indian Ocean<br />

just a 40 minute flight from Dar es Salaam.<br />

Virtually unknown, the names of Bwejuu,<br />

Mbarakum, Juani, Jibondo and Mafia mean little<br />

to most people. Yet these islands make up a<br />

beautiful archipelago, tiny jewels resting in an<br />

azure sea. Covered in rich rainforest, thick<br />

grasslands and giant baobab trees, the islands are<br />

dotted with tiny villages. Sunbirds flit through the<br />

trees, five species of endemic butterflies can be<br />

found and bushbabies call at night.<br />

On the coast, sandy beaches are flanked by<br />

mangroves and fishermen sit on the white sand<br />

mending nets or making coconut coir rope.<br />

Strings of drying octopus blow in the breeze and<br />

dhows sail from island to island, carrying children<br />

to school at sunrise and back home at sunset.<br />

All that said, it is in the turquoise waters that<br />

you will find the islands’ biggest attractions.<br />

Unspoiled barrier reefs surround the islands, rich<br />

in soft corals, sea anemones and sponges and<br />

attracting a dazzling array of fish. Potato groupers,<br />

hump-headed parrotfish and giant batfish are just<br />

some of those you might see while snorkelling,<br />

and turtles, rays and dolphins are never far away.<br />

Pole Pole Lodge<br />

POLE POLE LODGE,<br />

MAFIA ISLAND<br />

The clock on the wall at Pole Pole always says<br />

a quarter to eight, and quite aptly so, for at this<br />

lodge, time is unimportant. Seven sleepy<br />

bungalows stand on a small hill, shaded by palms<br />

and overlooking white sand and the sea. Inside,<br />

the bungalows are spacious and stylish and have<br />

large beds with Italian linen, muslin nets and<br />

bathrooms with brass fittings. The main dining<br />

area is open-sided and serves excellent food, with<br />

fresh seafood, mangos and honey pancakes just<br />

some of the specialities. Activities at Pole Pole are<br />

relaxed. There is an old dhow – Sayari – that<br />

floats gently to reefs and sandbanks for lazy<br />

mornings of snorkelling, diving and swimming.<br />

KINASI LODGE, MAFIA ISLAND<br />

Kinasi Lodge has 14 rustic bungalows situated in<br />

idyllic gardens sloping down to a small sandy<br />

beach. Each bungalow has big beds, old chests,<br />

cool stone floors, spacious bathrooms and large<br />

shady verandas with big hammocks. The central<br />

lodge houses a bar, dining room and extensive<br />

library. There’s a small pool, dive centre and a<br />

few sailing boats, while activities on offer include<br />

diving, snorkelling and swimming trips.<br />

Arriving on Mafia Island<br />

Kinasi Lodge<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 89


TANZANIA<br />

Zanzibar<br />

Dar es<br />

Salaam<br />

Selous Game Reserve<br />

Viewing lion on a game drive<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Tanzania specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 545<br />

Getting around<br />

Tanzania’s safari areas can be divided into the<br />

northern, southern and western ‘circuits’ and<br />

there are different ways to explore each. The<br />

‘northern circuit’ comprises the Serengeti,<br />

Ngorongoro, Tarangire and Lake Manyara parks.<br />

Tar and dirt roads connect them all and a typical<br />

way to explore is with a guide driving you from<br />

one to another in a modified Landrover. A typical<br />

one week itinerary would explore Lake Manyara,<br />

the Ngorongoro Crater and end in the Serengeti.<br />

Rather than retracing your steps afterwards, we<br />

would then recommend flying out to the coast<br />

or on to further wildlife areas.<br />

The ‘southern circuit’ comprises Selous and Ruaha<br />

and as distances are large and roads poor, the<br />

best way to combine them is by flying between<br />

the two. Light aircraft fly to these reserves each<br />

day and operate a ‘bus stop’ system, picking up<br />

and dropping off at camp airstrips. A typical safari<br />

in the south might include four or five days in the<br />

Selous followed by three in the Ruaha. Numerous<br />

flights go from both parks to Zanzibar and the<br />

Mafia Islands, making it easy to combine the south<br />

with the coast. The ‘western circuit’ comprises<br />

Katavi National Park and the Mahale Mountains.<br />

They are hundreds of miles from anywhere so<br />

access is always by light aircraft. Planes are<br />

scheduled each week to access these parks.<br />

90<br />

Cheetah in the Serengeti<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✓ ✓ ✓ ✕ ✕ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Tanzania has a pleasant tropical climate. As it is<br />

near the equator, there is little temperature<br />

fluctuation between summer and winter, with<br />

temperatures ranging from about 25C to 30C<br />

all year round. There are regional variations,<br />

however, with the coastal belt being hotter<br />

and more humid, inland areas dryer and cooler,<br />

and the mountains sometimes chilly at night.<br />

Tanzania has two rainy seasons, the short rains<br />

in November and December and the long rains<br />

from February to March. The heaviest downpours<br />

occur in April and May and many lodges close<br />

during this time.<br />

Time difference: GMT+3 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 9 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Tanzania on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Selous & Zanzibar Explorer<br />

This itinerary combines a wild safari with time on<br />

the beach. It is ideal for first time visitors to Africa<br />

or those looking for a relaxing trip with plenty of<br />

wildlife but minimal travel. Four nights in the Selous<br />

Game Reserve enable you to enjoy game viewing<br />

and a number of activities including boat trips,<br />

game drives and walking safaris. The Selous is a<br />

short flight from Zanzibar, where your beach time<br />

begins. Seven days is an ideal length of stay on<br />

Zanzibar as it gives you plenty of time to relax and<br />

to enjoy the activities that the island has to offer.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-5<br />

Days 6-10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Fly from the UK to Dar es<br />

Salaam overnight.<br />

Arrive in Dar es Salaam. Fly to the<br />

Selous Game Reserve for four nights<br />

at Lake Manze Camp. Explore the<br />

Selous on game drives, walking safaris<br />

and boat trips.<br />

Fly to Zanzibar for five nights at<br />

Echo Beach. Swim, snorkel and relax<br />

beside the pool or on the beach.<br />

Road transfer to Stone Town for<br />

one night at the Zanzibar Palace,<br />

Stone Town.<br />

Fly to Dar es Salaam and then in<br />

to the UK. Arrive in the UK in the<br />

early evening.<br />

Stay longer<br />

If you would like to extend your trip, one of the<br />

easiest ways to do it is by adding three nights in<br />

the Ruaha National Park at the start or midway<br />

through. Ruaha is a good contrast to Selous as it is<br />

largely a dry reserve with big herds of buffalo and<br />

particularly large prides of lion. The game in the<br />

dry season congregates along the Ruaha River<br />

making drives on the river banks rewarding.<br />

Zebra in the sunlight


Suggested itineraries<br />

Serengeti<br />

National Park<br />

Ngorongoro Crater<br />

Arusha<br />

Lake Manyara<br />

Zanzibar<br />

Dar es Salaam<br />

TANZANIA<br />

TANZANIA<br />

Ruaha National Park<br />

Selous Game Reserve<br />

Dar es Salaam<br />

Mafia<br />

Island<br />

Mahale<br />

Mountains<br />

Airstrip<br />

Mahale Mountains<br />

Katavi National Park<br />

TANZANIA<br />

Arusha<br />

Zanzibar<br />

Dar es Salaam<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

Classic Northern Tanzania<br />

This trip is a classic exploration of Tanzania’s most<br />

famous parks. It is ideal for a first time visitor to<br />

Africa as it encompasses dramatic landscapes,<br />

prolific wildlife and a variety of different activities.<br />

A guide will drive you in a modified Landrover<br />

into Lake Manyara National Park, the Ngorongoro<br />

Crater and the Serengeti Game Reserve. Each<br />

reserve is different both in terms of landscape<br />

and the wildlife found there. En route you’ll have<br />

the chance to stop off at local towns, barter in<br />

markets and visit Maasai in their traditional villages.<br />

After an adventurous safari in the north, you fly to<br />

Zanzibar where you can spend a week relaxing<br />

on the beach.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Days 5-7<br />

Days 8-14<br />

Day 15<br />

Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />

Arrive in Nairobi and fly to Arusha.<br />

Meet your guide and drive to Onsea<br />

House for one night.<br />

Guided drive to Lake Manyara<br />

National Park for a full day game<br />

viewing. Onward drive to Plantation<br />

Lodge for two nights.<br />

Full day’s game viewing trip to the<br />

Ngorongoro Crater.<br />

Drive to the Serengeti Game<br />

Reserve for three nights at Olakira<br />

Camp. Explore the Serengeti on<br />

game drives.<br />

Fly to Zanzibar for seven nights at<br />

Breezes Beach Club & Spa, Zanzibar.<br />

Swim, snorkel and relax beside the<br />

pool or on the beach.<br />

Fly to Dar es Salaam and then on<br />

to the UK. Arrive in the UK in the<br />

early evening.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Instead of ending your trip on Zanzibar, you could<br />

fly to the Mafia Islands instead. These islands are<br />

ideal for a really peaceful hideaway. Whilst the<br />

beaches are not as spectacular as those on<br />

Zanzibar, the snorkelling and diving is some of the<br />

best on the East African coast. You can immerse<br />

yourself in village life, meeting the residents or<br />

watching the local dhow builders at work. At night,<br />

look across Chole Bay where fuzzy faced fruitbats<br />

leave their roost on Chole Island to feed on the<br />

fruit trees of Mafia and other islands.<br />

Classic Southern Tanzania<br />

This trip explores Selous and Ruaha in Southern<br />

Tanzania and is suited to wildlife enthusiasts.<br />

The camps have been chosen for their locations<br />

in the heart of the parks and their excellent<br />

guiding. The Selous offers fabulous birding and<br />

boat trips whilst the main focus of Ruaha is big<br />

game viewed from open 4x4s. The trip ends at<br />

Kinasi Lodge on Mafia Island which is particularly<br />

good for snorkelling. Sail out to the reefs in Chole<br />

Bay by dhow and see parrotfish, potato groupers,<br />

batfish, butterflyfish, angelfish and more. This is a<br />

wonderful trip for those looking to immerse<br />

themselves in the wilderness.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2-4<br />

Day 5-7<br />

Day 8-13<br />

Day 14<br />

Fly from the UK to Dar es Salaam<br />

overnight.<br />

Arrive in Dar es Salaam and fly to the<br />

Selous Game Reserve for three nights<br />

at Selous Safari Camp. Explore the<br />

Selous on game drives and boat trips.<br />

Fly to Ruaha National Park for three<br />

nights at Kwihala. Game viewing in<br />

Ruaha National Park.<br />

Fly to Mafia Island for six nights at<br />

Kinasi Lodge. Time relaxing or<br />

enjoying activities on Mafia Island.<br />

Fly to Dar es Salaam and on to<br />

the UK. Arrive in the UK in the<br />

early evening.<br />

Stay longer<br />

One way to extend this itinerary would be to<br />

add three nights at a beautiful beach lodge on the<br />

Tanzanian mainland. Ras Kutani is a 20 minute<br />

flight south of Dar es Salaam and is the ideal place<br />

in which to recover from an international flight.<br />

The lodge has beautiful rooms with ocean views,<br />

and a long sandy beach. Cuisine is excellent at<br />

Ras Kutani, with an emphasis on seafood. and<br />

fresh lobster, crab, squid and prawns are often<br />

on the menu.<br />

Chimpanzees of<br />

Western Tanzania<br />

Western Tanzania is extremely wild and well<br />

suited to people who have been to Africa before.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to the west is not cheap, but a trip here<br />

is a once in a lifetime experience. Katavi has herds<br />

of thousands of buffalo, rivers with mud holes full<br />

of enormous crocodiles, and pods of hippo by the<br />

hundred. The beauty of Mahale defies belief: virgin<br />

rainforests filled with chimpanzees drop to white<br />

sand beaches and the clear waters of Lake<br />

Tanganyika. After time in the west we have<br />

suggested four nights at one of Zanzibar’s luxurious<br />

beach retreats – a perfect end to the trip.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Days 3-5<br />

Day 6-9<br />

Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />

Connect with a flight to Arusha and<br />

drive to Onsea House for one night.<br />

Fly to Katavi National Park for three<br />

nights at Chada Camp. Explore Katavi<br />

on game drives and walking safaris.<br />

Fly to Mahale Mountains Airstrip and<br />

take a boat to Greystoke Camp for<br />

four nights. Chimpanzee tracking in<br />

Mahale Mountains.<br />

Days 10-13 Fly to Zanzibar for four nights at<br />

Matemwe Bungalows. Swim,<br />

snorkel and relax beside the pool<br />

or on the beach.<br />

Day 14<br />

Fly to Dar es Salaam and on to the<br />

UK, arriving in the early evening.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Before flying to the west of Tanzania, enjoy some<br />

time on safari in the Serengeti. From December<br />

to May thousands of wildebeest converge on the<br />

southern plains of the park to breed and calve<br />

before starting the long journey north to the<br />

Masai Mara. Watch this spectacular sight from a<br />

mobile tented camp placed in the heart of the<br />

migration. The Serengeti provides a real contrast<br />

to both parks in the west and makes an ideal<br />

addition to this trip.<br />

Wild dog in the Selous<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ● 01993 838 545 ● Tanzania 91


Kenya<br />

Kenya is the country of wildlife<br />

documentaries and the home of the<br />

safari. It is everything you imagine Africa<br />

to be, with vast plains covered in thousands<br />

of wildebeest and gazelle, cheetah sitting on<br />

termite mounds, lions flat on their back in<br />

the sun and giraffe in the shade of acacias.<br />

Mingling with the animals Maasai<br />

herdsmen, clad in bright red shukas lead<br />

cattle across the plains to dusty waterholes<br />

to drink. Over recent years Kenya has<br />

gained a reputation for being a mass-market<br />

destination, but while there are busy areas,<br />

these are few and easily circumvented. Kenya<br />

has huge tracts of wilderness where vehicles<br />

are scarce and safaris are on foot or even by<br />

camel. Samburu warriors herd cattle across<br />

desolate plains, the huge reserves of Laikipia<br />

protect a number of endangered species and<br />

the grasslands of the Mara are traversed by<br />

Maasai herders. Kenya has a beautiful<br />

coastline with beaches stretching for miles.<br />

Offshore, the islands of Lamu and Funzi are<br />

a delight. With old Swahili towns, dhows<br />

sailing across the water, donkeys pulling old<br />

wooden carts and quiet beaches to enjoy, these<br />

are ideal places in which to end a safari.<br />

92


<strong>Audley</strong> in Kenya<br />

4<br />

Kenya has a reputation as a mass-market<br />

destination. True, there are some busy<br />

areas, but with expert advice and insider<br />

knowledge, they are easily avoided. With<br />

our years of experience in Kenya, personal<br />

friendships with lodge owners, and love of<br />

the wilderness, we have made it our goal to<br />

seek out some of Kenya’s most remote<br />

camps and charming beach lodges. The vast<br />

majority of our trips involve light aircraft<br />

flights, making even the most distant areas<br />

accessible. In each lodge or camp a<br />

professional safari guide will introduce you<br />

to the wildlife of the area, showing you the<br />

sights, sounds and smells of the bush.<br />

7<br />

Accommodation<br />

1<br />

2<br />

6<br />

5<br />

3<br />

The range of accomodation in Kenya is<br />

varied, from Robinson Crusoe hideaways at<br />

the beach to deluxe tented camps. As Kenya<br />

is famed for its stunning natural environment,<br />

the primary focus is on bringing the outside<br />

in. Each lodge or camp makes the most of its<br />

location, be it a luxury camp overlooking a<br />

waterhole, or a rustic beach lodge just yards<br />

from the Indian Ocean. Creature comforts<br />

are not overlooked, and even the simplest of<br />

camps will have a good bed, and a bathroom<br />

with a toilet and bucket shower.<br />

8<br />

Pelican in Lake Nakuru<br />

1 Masai Mara<br />

5 Lake Naivasha<br />

Africa’s most famous reserve,<br />

with large numbers of<br />

leopard, lion and cheetah<br />

and the location for the BBC’s<br />

One of the three permanent lakes<br />

in the Rift Valley, Lake Naivasha<br />

is a beautiful and peaceful place<br />

to start or end your trip.<br />

Big Cat Diary.<br />

6 Lake Nakuru<br />

2 Mara River<br />

Thousands of wildebeest, zebra<br />

and gazelle cross the Mara River<br />

on their great migration.<br />

3 Lamu archipelago<br />

A cluster of exotic islands<br />

with a small Swahili town and<br />

plentiful donkeys, dhows and<br />

sandy beaches.<br />

4 Samburu Reserve<br />

Home to some of Kenya’s<br />

rarer species including Grevy’s<br />

zebra, Beisa oryx, reticulated<br />

giraffe and gerenuk.<br />

Often carpeted with clouds of<br />

pink flamingos, the lake is<br />

surrounded by a national park<br />

with good black and white<br />

rhino populations.<br />

7 Laikipia Plateau<br />

A wilderness area dotted with<br />

Samburu villages and traversed<br />

by elephant and other game.<br />

8 Funzi Keys<br />

A tiny island tucked in the<br />

mangroves with white sandy<br />

beaches and offshore reefs<br />

excellent for snorkelling.<br />

Topi in the Masai Mara<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Kenya, please<br />

see page 105.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Kenya<br />

specialists 01993 838 510<br />

Lunch in the Mara<br />

Kenya 93


Elephants in Governors' Camp<br />

Little Governors' Camp<br />

Masai Mara National Reserve<br />

The Masai Mara National Reserve covers an area<br />

of 1,800 square kilometres and is Africa’s most<br />

famous wildlife area. The fertile grasslands,<br />

dominated by russet oat grass, are rich feeding<br />

grounds and each year millions of wildebeest and<br />

thousands of zebra, Thomson’s and Grant’s<br />

gazelle, eland and impala swarm into the area.<br />

Elephant stroll across the savannah, trunks curling<br />

to sniff the wind. Vast prides of lion stalk grazing<br />

herds, and hyena lurk behind them hoping to<br />

snatch a tasty morsel. Male topi stand sentry on<br />

termite mounds, keeping a watchful eye for<br />

predators, and pods of hippo grunt and snort in<br />

the rivers. By night, leopard stalk the silvery<br />

plains and the shrieks of startled baboons echo<br />

through the camps.<br />

94<br />

LITTLE GOVERNORS’ CAMP,<br />

MASAI MARA NATIONAL RESERVE<br />

Little Governors’ has 17 tents set on the edge of<br />

a natural wetland. For birders and wildlife lovers,<br />

the camp is paradise. Animals flood in from the<br />

surrounding area to take advantage of the water,<br />

and tiny malachite kingfishers hover on the reeds<br />

around the waterhole. Elephants are regular<br />

visitors to camp, and it’s not unusual for meals to<br />

be delayed while they pass through. Activities<br />

from Little Governors’ focus on game drives, but<br />

it’s also the base for early morning hot air balloon<br />

flights. Taking off at dawn and ending with a<br />

champagne breakfast, these are a particularly<br />

special treat.<br />

IL MORAN, MASAI MARA<br />

NATIONAL RESERVE<br />

Il Moran is one of the most luxurious options in<br />

the Mara. Set along the banks of the Mara River<br />

in the shade of the riverine forest, ten large and<br />

comfortable tents are made of sand-coloured<br />

canvas, with carved wooden beds, rugs on the<br />

floor and en suite bathrooms with traditional<br />

roll-top baths. Game viewing in the area is<br />

spectacular, so the camp includes three game<br />

drives each day, and can also arrange walking<br />

safaris in a private reserve outside the park gates.<br />

GOVERNORS’ CAMP, MASAI MARA<br />

NATIONAL RESERVE<br />

Governors’ was one of the first safari camps in<br />

the Masai Mara, and had the pick of the locations.<br />

The camp is right in the heart of the Musiara area,<br />

home to the legendary Marsh Pride of lions. The<br />

Big Cat Diaries team are based nearby and<br />

sightings of all three big cats are regular. To take<br />

advantage of this, Governors’ offer three game<br />

drives per day, although it’s not unusual to find<br />

the game coming to you. Governors’ has 38 tents,<br />

half of which overlook the Mara River and the<br />

other half the plains. With long-standing staff and<br />

a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, this camp will<br />

suit couples and families alike.<br />

Il Moran


Leopard in the morning sun<br />

A guided bushwalk from Kicheche<br />

Cheetah on a termite mound<br />

Zebra on the grasslands<br />

Naibor Camp<br />

NAIBOR CAMP, MASAI MARA<br />

NATIONAL RESERVE<br />

Naibor Camp sits in the heart of the Mara on<br />

a meander of the Talek River. The seven cream<br />

canvas tents are light, airy and spacious. The<br />

sides of the tents can be rolled up to let the<br />

breezes in, and the soft, muted colours of the<br />

fabrics echo the bush outside. The central mess<br />

of the camp houses both dining and sitting areas,<br />

and a handful of canvas safari chairs are perched<br />

on the bank, overlooking the resident pod of<br />

hippos. This is the perfect spot for a cool drink<br />

before lunch, listening to the hippos as they hiss<br />

and splutter in the water. Activities from Naibor<br />

include game drives guided by Maasai guides<br />

and walking safaris.<br />

KICHECHE BUSH CAMP, MASAI<br />

MARA NATIONAL RESERVE<br />

Located in the Olare Orok conservancy, one of<br />

the quietest and most remote areas of the park,<br />

Kicheche Bush Camp offers safari as it should be.<br />

There are just six traditional safari tents, all spread<br />

well apart from each other. The soft khakis,<br />

greens and creams of the camp ensure that it<br />

blends effortlessly into the bush, so you’ll hardly<br />

notice it until you’re upon it. The wildlife is free to<br />

come and go through the camp and eagles soar<br />

in the skies above. Game drives are in open safari<br />

vehicles and walks are also possible. For less<br />

energetic moments, there is a mess area with<br />

comfy chairs and a hammock outside each tent.<br />

Kicheche Bush Camp<br />

Karen Blixen Camp<br />

KAREN BLIXEN CAMP, GREATER<br />

MARA CONSERVATION AREA<br />

Karen Blixen Camp is one of the newer camps<br />

in the Mara, but it is quickly establishing itself as a<br />

firm favourite. It has one of the prettiest locations<br />

of any of the Masai Mara camps, on a bend of the<br />

Mara River. A resident pod of hippos floats on<br />

the water’s surface, impala graze the nearby<br />

grasslands, and elephant are regular visitors to<br />

the opposite banks. There are 19 luxury tents set<br />

along the riverfront, with a further three raised up<br />

on stilts behind. The tents themselves are very<br />

comfortable, with polished wooden floors, rugs<br />

and en suite bathrooms. This is an ideal option<br />

for first-time safari-goers, with all of the adventure<br />

and romance of sleeping under canvas, but a few<br />

creature comforts too.<br />

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Hot air balloon safaris<br />

Early morning balloon flight<br />

Ballooning over the Mara<br />

A wonderful way to see the Mara is on a hot<br />

air balloon safari. Floating in a balloon above<br />

the plains gives you a totally different<br />

perspective on the park. You can see birds<br />

roosting in the tops of trees, giraffe hiding<br />

under the forest canopy and the backs of<br />

hippo pods and crocodiles in the snaking<br />

rivers. As you balloon at sunrise you see the<br />

mist rising from the plains and light spreading<br />

over the park. Dawn in the Mara is one of<br />

the most beautiful sights in Africa.<br />

The flight<br />

You will be woken before dawn (usually<br />

around 4am) and taken from your camp to<br />

the hot air ballooning starting point at Little<br />

Governors’ Camp. On arrival at the site you<br />

can enjoy a cup of coffee and watch the<br />

balloons inflating. When they are ready you<br />

clamber into the basket and your pilot will give<br />

you a short briefing. Then, as the sun rises, so<br />

does your balloon. The direction you take will<br />

depend on the wind and you may float over<br />

forest, plains or rivers. Your pilot will point<br />

Topi<br />

out the game below and there are ample<br />

opportunities for photography. After around<br />

an hour you will land on the plains, possibly<br />

with a bump and certainly ready for breakfast.<br />

View from the basket<br />

Champagne breakfast<br />

On landing, breakfast will be set up and<br />

served for you in the middle of the Mara.<br />

You can enjoy a glass of champagne whilst<br />

the table is laid and sausages cooked for you.<br />

Sitting on a camp stool, tucking into breakfast<br />

and watching the birds soar overhead is a<br />

magical experience. After breakfast you climb<br />

into your safari vehicle and enjoy a game<br />

drive back to camp.<br />

96


Lake Nakuru<br />

Lake Nakuru, Lake Naivasha<br />

& Lake Victoria<br />

One of the three permanent lakes in the Rift<br />

Valley, Lake Naivasha’s shores are surrounded<br />

by flower farms, old colonial properties and small<br />

villages of clay and thatch houses. The birdlife<br />

is beautiful and includes fish eagles, ospreys, lilytrotters<br />

and black crakes. With a number of<br />

animals grazing by the shores, it is an ideal place<br />

to relax for a few days.<br />

A few miles further north (and within easy reach<br />

for a day trip from Naivasha) is Lake Nakuru.<br />

The first thing you will see when approaching<br />

the lake is a roseate cloud along the shoreline.<br />

As you draw near, the pink mass turns and forms<br />

the shape of millions of flamingos. This is one of<br />

the iconic sights of East Africa and a spectacle<br />

of immense beauty. A game reserve has been<br />

created around the lake where black rhino are<br />

protected and can be seen along with many<br />

antelope, giraffe, lion and hyena.<br />

Lake Victoria is the second largest body of<br />

freshwater in the world. Although only a tiny<br />

percentage of the lake is located in Kenya, there<br />

are a number of islands scattered throughout the<br />

waters. Easily accessible from the Mara, it is also a<br />

wonderful place to relax before or after a safari.<br />

Other activities include trips to local villages and<br />

nearby islands and excellent birdwatching.<br />

Rhino in Nakuru National Park<br />

LOLDIA HOUSE, LAKE NAIVASHA<br />

A few days at Loldia is the perfect way to start or<br />

end any safari. The house retains the colonial feel<br />

of its original occupants, early Kenya settlers who<br />

travelled all the way from South Africa by ox-cart.<br />

Life here continues in many ways as they lived it,<br />

with drinks in the drawing room before dinner and<br />

afternoon tea served on the lawns overlooking the<br />

water. With a charming host in Peter Njoroge,<br />

Loldia makes an excellent base for exploring Lake<br />

Nakuru National Park, taking gentle game walks<br />

and visiting the nearby farm and school.<br />

MFANGANO ISLAND LODGE,<br />

MFANGANO ISLAND, LAKE VICTORIA<br />

Mfangano Island is a peaceful hideaway on Lake<br />

Victoria among fishing villages, beautiful birdlife<br />

and large fish in the waters. Mfangano Island<br />

Lodge blends perfectly with its environment,<br />

with massive fig trees growing up around the<br />

rooms and even through them in some cases.<br />

Dinners are always special, with lake fish – caught<br />

that day – served on a table by the shore or on<br />

the jetty, lit by lanterns.<br />

Mfangano Island Lodge<br />

Loldia House<br />

Waterbuck<br />

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Game drive in the Lewa Conservancy<br />

Laikipia Plateau<br />

Stretching over a vast area from the foothills of<br />

Mount Kenya to the shores of Lake Baringo, the<br />

Laikipia Plateau is one of Kenya’s lesser-known<br />

wildlife areas, yet it harbours more endangered<br />

species than anywhere else in East Africa. This is<br />

the place to see Grevy’s zebra, sitatunga, Jackson’s<br />

hartebeest and wild dog. Many northern species<br />

are found, including reticulated giraffe, Somali<br />

ostrich, Beisa oryx and gerenuk. There are large<br />

elephant populations, thriving lion, leopard and<br />

cheetah and numerous impala and gazelle. The<br />

land on the plateau is divided into huge ranches,<br />

most of which are devoted to wildlife<br />

conservation. The large conservancies of Lewa,<br />

Ol Pejeta and Lekurruki have all been<br />

instrumental in research and education on this<br />

vital subject, and as a guest you can learn about<br />

the ongoing projects. Far from the beaten track,<br />

they are also ideal for those looking to relax in<br />

View from a room at Sabuk<br />

98<br />

Lewa Safari Camp<br />

total wilderness. You might track elephant on<br />

foot, ride a camel across rugged plains or watch<br />

the sunset from the top of a kopje. The game is<br />

wild and unfettered and the earth is brick-red,<br />

stretching as far as the eye can see.<br />

SABUK LODGE, EWASO<br />

NG’IRO RIVER<br />

Sabuk Lodge is perched above a gorge where<br />

the Ewaso Ng’iro thunders through the rocks.<br />

There are seven stone and thatch cottages, with<br />

open air baths and views across the gorge. The<br />

service is excellent and the atmosphere friendly<br />

and relaxed. The game, including greater kudu,<br />

reticulated giraffe, klipspringer, eland, lion and<br />

leopard, make for rewarding drives and walks.<br />

As you are in the heart of Samburu country,<br />

guides are often from local villages and can<br />

teach you about their culture as well as leading<br />

you on camel safaris.<br />

WILDERNESS TRAILS &<br />

LEWA SAFARI CAMP, LEWA<br />

WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY<br />

Wilderness Trails is a charming homestead run<br />

by Will and Emma Craig, whose family started the<br />

conservancy. There are eight pretty cottages, each<br />

spacious and comfortable. The food is particularly<br />

good with organic home grown fruit and<br />

vegetables. Not far away, the neighbouring camp<br />

Lewa Safari Camp has 12 tents overlooking a<br />

floodlit waterhole favoured by elephants and both<br />

black and white rhino. Both camps offer game<br />

drives, night drives and walks with the Samburu.<br />

Giraffe in front of Lewa Safari Camp


The starbeds at Loisaba<br />

Giraffe<br />

Camel safari<br />

LOISABA WILDERNESS,<br />

LAIKIPIA PLATEAU<br />

Loisaba Wilderness has a collection of little<br />

cottages perched on the edge of an escarpment<br />

with fabulous views of the bush and Mount<br />

Kenya. Its rooms are very comfortable and there<br />

is a lovely pool tucked into a sunny courtyard, as<br />

well as a tiny spa. During the day you’ll sometimes<br />

see kudu families coming into the gardens to eat<br />

the plants and even take a quick drink from the<br />

pool. Other activities include game drives,<br />

walking safaris and horseriding.<br />

LOISABA STARBEDS,<br />

LAIKIPIA PLATEAU<br />

The Loisaba Starbeds are two camps run by the<br />

local Koija community. Each camp has a simple<br />

communal dining area and three Starbeds, which<br />

are four-poster double beds placed on halfthatched,<br />

raised platforms. Each night the beds<br />

are wheeled out so that you can sleep under the<br />

night sky. Drifting off, you listen to the sound of<br />

elephants in the nearby dam or the gentle chatter<br />

of your Samburu hosts. Waking, you are greeted<br />

by an African sunrise like no other.<br />

Kicheche Laikipia Camp<br />

KICHECHE LAIKIPIA, OL PEJETA<br />

CONSERVANCY<br />

Kicheche Laikipia is a new camp in the Ol Pejeta<br />

Conservancy. This area of Kenya is one of the<br />

few places where all of the big five can be seen<br />

in one place and the excellent guiding team are<br />

on hand to help you spot most, if not all, of them.<br />

Day and night game drives take visitors across<br />

the conservancy, and for the adventurous, there’s<br />

also the chance of an early morning walk. At the<br />

end of a rewarding day in the bush, there are six<br />

luxury safari tents to return to. A campfire is lit in<br />

front of the mess, and guests recount the day’s<br />

adventures as the moon moves across the sky.<br />

Loisaba<br />

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Walking safaris in the Karisia Hills<br />

Tracking elephant on foot<br />

For those wanting to get out of a vehicle and<br />

into their walking boots, a three to five day<br />

walking safari in the Karisia Hills in Northern<br />

Kenya might appeal. Easily tailored to fit into<br />

a trip around the country, these offer a<br />

contrast to more traditional safaris and are a<br />

good way to see big game as well as<br />

examining all the smaller animals and birds.<br />

Walking through the bush, you’ll spot the signs<br />

that a leopard has recently passed by or learn<br />

to identify a dik-dik’s territory. Herds of<br />

frightened guinea-fowl scatter amongst the<br />

thorn bushes, and giraffe canter gently away<br />

from unexpected visitors.<br />

Guides & camp staff<br />

The walking safaris we recommend are lead<br />

by Kerry Glen who grew up in Africa and is<br />

now raising her own family in the bush. She is<br />

accompanied by a team of guides and camel<br />

handlers, all of whom were raised in Northern<br />

Kenya. One of the great characters of the team<br />

is Shillingi, a Maasai elder. In the past he hunted<br />

elephants on foot with a bow and arrow, and<br />

now uses these skills as a formidable tracker.<br />

Whilst many of the camel handlers and camp<br />

crew don’t speak English or Swahili they’ll<br />

always be delighted to show you a bird that<br />

has perched on a nearby bush or play (and<br />

win) a game of football when in camp.<br />

Sleeping tent<br />

A Karisia walking safari<br />

The pack camels<br />

A day on a walking safari<br />

Each safari starts with a briefing from Kerry or<br />

head guide Gabriel. You then head off on foot<br />

following the guide and five or six pack camels.<br />

Spending a morning walking is thirsty work,<br />

and there are stops under shady acacias for<br />

drinks. You’ll reach camp around lunchtime to<br />

find tents set up by an advance camp crew.<br />

After a meal and a snooze you’ll set off on an<br />

afternoon walk. More often than not you’ll<br />

climb a kopje and settle down with delicious<br />

‘bitings’, a cool drink and all of Africa spread<br />

out below you. After the sunset you amble<br />

back to camp for a hot bucket shower,<br />

dinner under the stars and a well earned<br />

sleep in your tent.<br />

Accommodation on a walking safari<br />

Accommodation is in small dome tents, large<br />

enough for a double mattress, blankets and<br />

pillows. Torches and drinking water are<br />

supplied. The tents have netting at the front<br />

so when you wake up, you can see the sun<br />

spreading across the sky. Bucket showers and<br />

toilets are to the rear of camp. Meals are<br />

taken in a central mess area, with comfortable<br />

canvas safari chairs. There is always a campfire<br />

at night. Each day the crew packs up the camp<br />

and puts it on the backs of the camels who<br />

carry it to the next spot.<br />

100


Samburu girls at a village near to Sasaab<br />

Mongoose Gazelle in Samburu Elsa’s Kopje<br />

Samburu National Reserve<br />

The Samburu Reserve stretches stark and rugged<br />

towards the Chalbi desert. The country here is<br />

empty and wild, a place of baked brown earth<br />

and parched vegetation. The silence is almost<br />

eerie and at first you might think this an empty<br />

landscape. Stay for a while, however, and you will<br />

find yourself in one of Kenya’s most rewarding<br />

reserves. Running through Samburu, the Ewaso<br />

Ng’iro River is surrounded by a permanent ribbon<br />

of green, with tamarinds, doum palms and acacia<br />

providing respite from the sweltering sun.<br />

Elephant, buffalo and waterbuck frequent the<br />

woodland, impala herds graze under the trees<br />

and Grevy’s zebra, Beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe<br />

and gerenuk can all be found. Lion, leopard and<br />

cheetah are never far away while up above,<br />

martial eagles, bateleurs and pygmy falcons<br />

patrol the skies.<br />

SaSaab<br />

Gerenuk browsing<br />

SASAAB, SAMBURU<br />

NATIONAL RESERVE<br />

SaSaab is situated just outside the park on<br />

Samburu community land. It sits on a high rocky<br />

ridge above the Ewaso Ng’iro River and has<br />

views extending to Mount Kenya on a clear day.<br />

Accommodation is in nine luxurious Moroccan<br />

tents set under makuti thatch roofs. Each has a<br />

bedroom, lounge area, en suite bathroom and<br />

private plunge pool on the outside deck. Activities<br />

include day and night drives, walking safaris, camel<br />

treks and cultural visits to the local communities.<br />

Meru National Park<br />

Meru National Park is one of Kenya’s least known<br />

reserves. A few may know of it as the home of<br />

Joy Adamson and her lioness, Elsa, but otherwise<br />

it remains relatively unheard of. With thirteen<br />

rivers running through the park the game viewing<br />

is excellent, and yet visitors largely have the park<br />

to themselves. Game in the park includes buffalo,<br />

elephant, rhino, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra,<br />

lesser kudu and gerenuk. Prides of lion snooze<br />

beneath trees, tiny dik-diks scamper amongst the<br />

acacia thorns and bataleur eagles float on<br />

thermals in the sky. The baboons and vervet<br />

monkeys are a delight and the river is a sanctuary<br />

for hippos and crocodiles.<br />

ELSA’S KOPJE, MERU<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Elsa’s Kopje sits high on a hilltop overlooking<br />

Meru National Park. It was named for Elsa the<br />

lioness, and even now it is possible to lie in bed<br />

at night and hear lions roaring across the park.<br />

There are ten stone and thatch cottages, each<br />

slightly different, but all open-fronted to take<br />

advantage of the stunning views. The pool is<br />

the real highlight of a stay at Elsa’s and guests<br />

can sit for hours with a cold drink, watching the<br />

sun go down and the eagles glide over the<br />

landscape below.<br />

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Dhows on a Kenyan beach<br />

Kenya’s beaches<br />

Kenya has an idyllic coastline, with miles of soft<br />

white sand fringed by palm trees giving way to<br />

aquamarine seas. Small fishing villages bask in<br />

the sun, nets hang to dry on bleached sticks<br />

alongside huts tucked under cashew nut trees.<br />

There are beaches backed by tall dunes into<br />

which green turtles clamber to nest, and the<br />

many offshore marine parks protect long coral<br />

reefs. A short distance from the coast there are<br />

a number of beautiful archipelagos; Lamu with<br />

its dhows and donkeys, Funzi with mangrove<br />

channels and sand banks and Kiwayu with miles<br />

of deserted sand. With temperatures averaging<br />

28C and around eight hours of sunshine a day,<br />

it is easy to see why Kenya’s beaches have<br />

become so popular.<br />

Market in Lamu Town<br />

Picnic at Funzi Keys<br />

Swahili dining<br />

102<br />

Picnic on Manda Island


Dhows of the Lamu archipelago<br />

The Lamu Archipelago<br />

The Lamu archipelago lies a few miles off the<br />

coast of Northern Kenya. Transport is by donkey<br />

or on foot, beaches are deserted and the most<br />

common sounds are the wind in the grass or the<br />

creak of a dhow. There are two main islands in<br />

the archipelago, Lamu and Manda. Sprinkled<br />

about these in the turquoise sea are tiny coral<br />

atolls and white sandbanks, while below the<br />

surface are coral reefs rich with vibrant life. Most<br />

visitors to the archipelago base themselves on<br />

Lamu. At 16 kilometres long and seven kilometres<br />

wide, it resembles a miniature version of Zanzibar<br />

but is much quieter. On the northeast coast, the<br />

magnificent Swahili settlement of Lamu Town is a<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site. Venturing further<br />

afield you will find a 12-kilometre beach on the<br />

south coast and the pretty fishing village of Shela.<br />

A short boat ride away, Manda Island is quieter<br />

still, with beaches just made for picnics, barbecues<br />

and relaxing in the sun.<br />

The pool at Peponi<br />

Lamu chef<br />

PEPONI HOTEL, SHELA,<br />

LAMU ISLAND<br />

Peponi is a family-run hotel on the fringes of<br />

Shela Village. Owned and run by the Korschen<br />

family since 1967, and having once been a house,<br />

it has a warm established feel. Peponi overlooks<br />

the Lamu Channel and the 24 rooms either have<br />

sea views or look onto the gardens, bursting with<br />

flowers. There is a small pool in the shade of two<br />

baobab trees and a lovely sandy beach. Peponi is<br />

renowned for its excellent cuisine, with seafood a<br />

speciality. Lobster, giant prawns and fresh rock<br />

oysters are frequently on the menu.<br />

MANDA BAY, MANDA ISLAND<br />

Manda Bay is an exclusive hideaway tucked into<br />

the shady vegetation on Manda Island. There are<br />

ten rustic chalets, each with a large bedroom and<br />

bathroom and decorated with bright East African<br />

fabrics. Although the lodge is remote and only<br />

accessible by boat, there is plenty to keep you<br />

occupied. Sail to Lamu town to explore, dive and<br />

waterski or set off to Manda Toto Island for a<br />

day of swimming and snorkelling with a large<br />

picnic lunch.<br />

The pool at Manda Bay<br />

Manda Bay<br />

www.audleytravel.com/kenya ● 01993 838 510 ● Kenya 103


Diani Beach<br />

Funzi Island<br />

Funzi is an unspoilt island at the tip of Kenya’s<br />

south coast. Though only a 15 minute flight from<br />

Mombasa it may as well be in another world.<br />

Arriving by air you see turquoise waters, slivers of<br />

white sand and dense tropical vegetation. Dhows<br />

sail on the waves and underneath the surface, a<br />

marine park harbours numerous coral reefs. Once<br />

on the ground, a grass runway has small paths<br />

winding into the trees. A wooden walkway leads<br />

onto the island, for there are no roads here. With<br />

one exclusive lodge and no neighbours for miles<br />

around, this is as remote a beach destination as<br />

you’ll find anywhere.<br />

Funzi Keys<br />

104<br />

The pool at Funzi Keys<br />

View from a Funzi Keys chalet<br />

FUNZI KEYS, FUNZI ISLAND<br />

On the southern tip of Funzi Island, Funzi Keys<br />

faces onto a small sandy beach and is one of the<br />

most exclusive hideaways on the coast. The<br />

rooms are very private and have four-poster<br />

beds, fine linen and a Jacuzzi. A 50 metre pool is<br />

set amongst the mangroves and surrounded by<br />

sunloungers and beanbags, the ideal spot to relax<br />

during a hot afternoon. The owner Alessandro<br />

prides himself on the cuisine which includes<br />

everything from Swahili dishes to sushi. There are<br />

lots of activities on offer including snorkelling,<br />

sailing and trips to sandbanks for picnic lunches.<br />

Diani Beach, Kenya Coast<br />

Diani Beach is a popular beach on Kenya’s south<br />

coast. It has a long stretch of white sand fringed<br />

by palms and other indigenous bush. Although<br />

there are a number of hotels, private homes,<br />

shops and restaurants here, most of them are<br />

low-rise and set in large properties with gardens<br />

and trees. There is still a nice sense of nature,<br />

the atmosphere is relaxed so you can walk along<br />

the sand without meeting too many people.<br />

ASHA COTTAGE, DIANI BEACH<br />

Asha Cottage is a pretty family-run guesthouse.<br />

John and Dominique have five rooms with<br />

white-washed walls, tiled floors and traditional<br />

Swahili furniture. The rooms look out onto the<br />

pool, set in tropical gardens. Cuisine is excellent<br />

with chef Kennedy deciding on the menu only<br />

once he knows what the day’s catch is. With a<br />

relaxed atmosphere, this property is particularly<br />

well suited to families.<br />

Asha Cottage


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a basis<br />

to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Masai Mara<br />

National Reserve<br />

Laikipia Plateau<br />

Nairobi<br />

KENYA<br />

Lamu<br />

Masai Mara<br />

National Reserve<br />

Nairobi<br />

KENYA<br />

Please call one of our Kenya specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 510<br />

TANZANIA<br />

TANZANIA<br />

Getting around<br />

Zanzibar<br />

Many safari companies drive their guests around<br />

Kenya in Land Rovers or mini-buses. We feel that<br />

this limits which camps you can reach and as<br />

roads are pot-holed, journeys can be long and<br />

uncomfortable. There also tend to be stops at<br />

strategically placed curio shops. We prefer to fly<br />

our travellers around the country making use of<br />

the extensive and reasonably priced flight network.<br />

Flights land at small airstrips in the heart of parks<br />

where we will have your guide waiting, ready to<br />

drive you to camp. The flight network extends to<br />

the coast with regular flights to Lamu, Diani Beach<br />

and Funzi Island. As flying is much quicker than<br />

driving, the focus of your holiday will be on game<br />

viewing, meeting local communities and relaxing,<br />

rather than on travelling.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✓ ✓ ✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Kenya is a dry country with 75% of its area classed<br />

as arid or semi-arid. The climate can be divided<br />

into two belts. ‘Inland’ Kenya (including the Rift<br />

Valley and Central Highlands) has an idyllic climate<br />

with daytime temperatures averaging 20C and<br />

cooler nights. The short rains fall from October to<br />

December and the long rains from March to May.<br />

The coastal strip is hot and humid all year round,<br />

with daytime temperatures ranging from 26C to<br />

32C and 70% humidity. However, the heat is<br />

pleasantly tempered by the monsoon winds.<br />

Due to its temperate climate, Kenya can be<br />

enjoyed nearly all year round, the only period to<br />

avoid being the long rains from the middle of<br />

March to the end of May.<br />

Time difference: GMT+3 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 8.5 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Kenya on our website, alternatively<br />

please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />

Classic Kenya<br />

Classic Kenya is a comprehensive trip around the<br />

country exploring the wild north, game-rich Masai<br />

Mara and exotic Lamu archipelago. In the north<br />

we’ve chosen Sabuk Lodge, perched on a rocky<br />

kopje. This area receives few visitors and the focus<br />

is on walking, camel trekking and meeting Samburu<br />

communities. In the Mara we suggest Little<br />

Governors’ Camp, situated on a wetland that<br />

attracts elephant and buffalo throughout the day.<br />

The trip ends with five nights of relaxation on the<br />

beaches of Lamu Island.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Days 3-5<br />

Days 6-9<br />

Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />

Arrive in Nairobi for one night at<br />

Giraffe Manor.<br />

Fly to the Laikipia Plateau for three<br />

nights at Sabuk. Explore on game<br />

drives, visit Samburu villages and<br />

enjoy walking safaris.<br />

Fly to the Masai Mara for four nights<br />

at Little Governors’ Camp. Explore<br />

the Mara on game drives and<br />

walking safaris.<br />

Days 10-14 Fly to Lamu for five nights at Peponi<br />

Hotel. Explore Lamu on foot, enjoy<br />

dhow trips and relax beside the pool<br />

or on the beach.<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Fly to Nairobi and on to the UK<br />

overnight.<br />

Arrive back in the UK in the<br />

early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Instead of ending your trip on Lamu Island, fly to<br />

the Seychelles for a week. Mahé is a three hour<br />

flight from Nairobi, making it easy to combine the<br />

two countries. With luxury hotels and some of the<br />

world’s most iconic beaches, the Seychelles is a<br />

breathtaking end to a wild safari.<br />

Kenya & Zanzibar Explorer<br />

This relaxing trip combines two areas; a safari in<br />

Kenya’s Masai Mara followed by a week on<br />

Zanzibar’s palm-fringed Bwejuu Beach. Naibor<br />

Camp is located above the Talek River in the<br />

Mara. There is a noisy pod of hippos in the water<br />

and morning and afternoon game drives explore<br />

the surrounding plains, rich with game. After early<br />

morning starts on safari, Zanzibar’s Echo Beach<br />

Hotel is the perfect antidote. Enjoy a lie-in<br />

followed by a breakfast of tropical fruit before<br />

setting out on relaxed snorkel trips from a<br />

traditional dhow.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-5<br />

Day 6<br />

Days 7-12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />

Arrive in Nairobi. Fly to the Masai<br />

Mara for four nights at Naibor Camp.<br />

Explore the Mara on game drives and<br />

walking safaris.<br />

Fly to Nairobi for one night.<br />

Fly to Zanzibar for six nights at Echo<br />

Beach. Swim, snorkel and relax<br />

beside the pool or on the beach.<br />

Fly to Nairobi and on to the UK<br />

overnight.<br />

Arrive back in the UK in the<br />

early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Before flying into the Masai Mara, stay at Lake<br />

Naivasha for a few days at the start of your trip.<br />

Naivasha is a scenic three hour drive from Nairobi.<br />

Stay at a converted colonial house on the shores<br />

of the lake and enjoy game drives, walks and trips<br />

to Lake Nakuru National Park..<br />

Young lion in the Masai Mara<br />

Children's activities at SaSaab<br />

www.audleytravel.com/kenya ● 01993 838 510 ● Kenya 105


Uganda<br />

Uganda is a land of diversity,<br />

with lush forests echoing with<br />

the hoots of chimpanzees, open<br />

savannah plains, vast tea plantations<br />

and the steep-sided Rwenzori<br />

Mountains. It offers the opportunity<br />

to come face to face with a mountain<br />

gorilla in the Bwindi Impenetrable<br />

Forest and boasts some of the most<br />

diverse and abundant birdlife in the<br />

continent, including the rare shoebill<br />

stork. Although the wildlife was<br />

heavily poached during Idi Amin’s<br />

era, the national parks and reserves<br />

are now providing an important<br />

sanctuary for ever-increasing<br />

populations of game, including<br />

elephant, buffalo, lion, and even<br />

leopard. If you think Africa has no<br />

surprises left for you, Uganda may<br />

well prove you wrong.<br />

Tree climbing lion in Queen Elizabeth National Park<br />

4<br />

Batwa man in Ntandi village<br />

1 Bwindi Impenetrable<br />

Forest<br />

This montane forest is home<br />

to the mountain gorilla.<br />

3 Queen Elizabeth<br />

National Park<br />

The main area for a traditional<br />

safari with populations of lion,<br />

elephant, buffalo and more.<br />

4 Murchison Falls<br />

Dramatic waterfalls where<br />

the River Nile is forced<br />

through a narrow gap in the<br />

Great Rift Valley.<br />

3<br />

5<br />

2<br />

6<br />

2 Kibale Forest<br />

One of the best places in Africa<br />

to see chimpanzees in their<br />

natural habitat.<br />

Boats on the Nile River<br />

5 Semliki Game Reserve<br />

One of the best places in East<br />

Africa to see the shoebill stork.<br />

1<br />

106<br />

Ankole cattle by the roadside<br />

6 Jinja<br />

The source of the River Nile,<br />

and Uganda’s adventure capital<br />

with white water-rafting and<br />

mountain biking trips.


Bwindi Impenetrable Forest<br />

One of the most biologically diverse forests in<br />

Africa, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is home to<br />

Uganda’s largest population of mountain gorilla<br />

and is understandably a highlight of any trip to<br />

the country. Dense rainforest mixed with bamboo<br />

and nettles covers the steep ridges of the hills<br />

and valleys in this national park which forms the<br />

eastern edge of the Albertine Rift Valley. The trek<br />

to reach the gorillas is challenging and can take as<br />

long as five hours. However, your first glimpse of<br />

a gorilla is unforgettable and easily ranks as one of<br />

the world’s greatest wildlife experiences. Whilst<br />

here, keep your eyes peeled for black and white<br />

colobus monkeys whose fluffy tails stand out<br />

against the dark green canopy.<br />

Queen Elizabeth<br />

National Park<br />

The Queen Elizabeth National Park is situated in<br />

the west of Uganda and has savannah plains<br />

interspersed with euphorbia candelabra. Hippos<br />

line the Ishasha River and lions can be found<br />

lounging in the low boughs of the fig trees in the<br />

southern plains. Further north, the Kasenyi Track<br />

is home to a wide variety of antelope including<br />

Uganda kob, bushbuck, reedbuck and topi.<br />

Elephant and buffalo are prevalent throughout,<br />

and the shores of the Kazinga Channel linking<br />

Lake Edward and Lake George are lined with fish<br />

eagles, pied kingfishers and African skimmers.<br />

More than 600 species of bird can be found here,<br />

and for those keen to explore on foot, the<br />

Maramagambo Forest is a real highlight.<br />

Shoebill stork<br />

Kibale Forest<br />

Kibale Forest National Park has dense and diverse<br />

vegetation which provides food and sanctuary for<br />

13 species of primate. It is an excellent park for<br />

exploration on foot as paths lead deep into the<br />

forest. It is one of the best places in Africa to<br />

search for chimpanzees in their natural habitat,<br />

as well as blue monkey, L’Hoest’s monkey and<br />

grey-cheeked mangabey. Nearby, the Bigodi<br />

wetlands are a birder’s paradise, boasting a<br />

colourful array of marsh-dwelling birds and clouds<br />

of butterflies. Kibale is also surrounded by dozens<br />

of pretty crater lakes, which offer superb walking<br />

opportunities for the more active traveller, as well<br />

as tea plantations which blanket the countryside<br />

in verdant greens.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Uganda<br />

All our tours to Uganda are private, giving<br />

you the flexibility to set the pace of your<br />

safari here. A driver-guide and 4x4 vehicle<br />

will stay with you throughout your trip,<br />

allowing you to stop to explore a busy fruit<br />

market, take a photograph or introduce<br />

yourselves to the local people. Most roads<br />

are unpaved and travelling times depend on<br />

the weather, so a relaxed attitude is<br />

important. The scenery is ever-changing,<br />

making the travel from place to place a<br />

fascinating journey in itself. The majority of<br />

the national parks are located in the<br />

southwestern sector of Uganda, and we<br />

tailor trips to form a circuit so you will<br />

never retrace your steps.<br />

Accommodation<br />

The majority of accomodation in Uganda is<br />

in small lodges and safari camps in or near<br />

the national parks. In Entebbe and Kampala,<br />

however, we use a range of small<br />

guesthouses and larger international-style<br />

hotels. Visitors should bear in mind that<br />

tourism is still relatively new to Uganda, so<br />

there is not always a great choice of<br />

accommodation in each area, and standards<br />

of service and food are usually good but not<br />

exceptional, even in the more luxurious<br />

properties. We have hand picked a selection<br />

of properties where the staff are always<br />

friendly and eager to please. They may not<br />

anticipate your needs in the same way as<br />

elsewhere in Africa but if you do need<br />

something, just ask and they will gladly help.<br />

Gorilla eating a nettle<br />

Uganda kob in Queen Elizabeth National Park<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Uganda, please<br />

see our website.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Uganda<br />

specialists 01993 838 575<br />

Uganda 107


Gorilla tracking<br />

Young gorilla eating a nettle<br />

There are only 700 mountain gorillas remaining<br />

on earth. The majority live in the Virunga<br />

Mountains that straddle Rwanda, Uganda and<br />

the Democratic Republic of Congo whilst a<br />

smaller number live in the Bwindi Impenetrable<br />

Forest of Uganda. Hunted and pushed out of<br />

their dwindling habitat, the montane forest is<br />

now heavily protected. Most of the 700<br />

individuals live a wild existence, far from human<br />

reach. However, a handful of groups have been<br />

habituated and can be tracked and observed by<br />

small numbers of visitors under the watchful<br />

eyes of park scouts.<br />

Tracking mountain gorillas is one of Africa’s<br />

greatest wildlife adventures. After scrambling up<br />

muddy paths and crawling through vegetation<br />

tunnels, the first sight of a mountain gorilla takes<br />

your breath away. They observe you from nests<br />

in the misty trees and you realise that you are<br />

now guests in their world. Crouching low in the<br />

dripping vegetation, you can watch silverbacks<br />

crunching on wild celery and nettles, youngsters<br />

chasing each other around clearings, and babies<br />

leaping from low branches before being<br />

scooped up by their mothers. Looking deep into<br />

the eyes of a gorilla sends a shiver down your<br />

spine, an experience you will never forget.<br />

Trekking in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest<br />

Permits<br />

Permits must be obtained to visit the gorillas<br />

and, as only eight are granted per gorilla group<br />

each day, they are extremely limited. We will<br />

secure permits for you as far in advance as<br />

possible and at least four months before you<br />

intend to travel. The permits currently cost<br />

around US$500 per person, which entitles<br />

you to one hour with the mountain gorillas.<br />

This money goes towards conservation of the<br />

habitat, anti-poaching efforts and education of<br />

the local communities.<br />

Trekking and clothing<br />

Gorillas live in montane forest and treks to see<br />

them are at altitude and pass through varied<br />

vegetation and terrain. You will need a<br />

reasonable level of fitness and a willingness to<br />

clamber up muddy slopes and through thick<br />

growth. When setting out you should expect<br />

to get muddy and rained on, so a waterproof<br />

jacket is essential. The exertion will keep you<br />

warm, so layers are best. We have found it a<br />

good idea to wear long trousers to protect<br />

your legs against nettles, and a T-shirt with a<br />

long-sleeved shirt over the top. A waterproofed<br />

daypack is essential for your camera, water<br />

bottle and snacks. For a small fee, porters can<br />

be hired to carry your daypack and help you<br />

up the steeper slopes.<br />

Rwanda or Uganda?<br />

There are two main locations in which to view<br />

the mountain gorillas, the Volcanoes National<br />

Park in Rwanda or the Bwindi Impenetrable<br />

Forest in Uganda. In each place, a number of<br />

groups are habituated but the experience does<br />

differ significantly. Here is a guide to each, to<br />

help you select where you would like to go in<br />

order to see these fabulous animals.<br />

108


Rwanda<br />

Rwanda is a much smaller country than Uganda,<br />

so lends itself better to a short trip in<br />

combination with a safari or beach stay<br />

elsewhere in East Africa. The Volcanoes<br />

National Park is only two hours’ drive on tarmac<br />

road from Kigali and the international airport.<br />

For one visit to the gorillas, you will need a<br />

minimum of two nights’ stay, and three nights<br />

would be ideal. Rwanda has more than twice<br />

the number of habituated mountain gorilla<br />

groups than Uganda and so permits are<br />

generally more easily available.<br />

Rwanda gorilla groups<br />

There are currently seven main groups that<br />

can be tracked in Rwanda; the Susa, Sabinyo,<br />

Amahoro, Umubano, Hirwa, Kwitonda and<br />

Group Thirteen. The groups vary in number<br />

from around 9 to 39 individuals and all currently<br />

have at least one silverback male. Of the seven<br />

groups, there are a couple that tend to be<br />

found on the saddle between Mount Sabyinyo<br />

Uganda<br />

Uganda is a larger country to explore than<br />

Rwanda, and it takes two long days of driving<br />

to reach the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest from<br />

Entebbe, broken up with an overnight stay<br />

halfway at Lake Mburo. Once at Bwindi we<br />

would recommend three nights before<br />

continuing your safari around Uganda.<br />

Uganda gorilla groups<br />

There are four habituated gorilla groups in<br />

Bwindi and none tend to be found near to the<br />

park entrance. The groups are called the<br />

Mubare, Habinyanja, Rushegura and Nkuringo<br />

and range in size from 10 to 20 individuals,<br />

each with one or two silverbacks. The terrain<br />

in Bwindi means that you sometimes start your<br />

trek at the top of the hills, descend on foot into<br />

Breakfast at Sabyinyo<br />

and Mount Gahinga which is around a two hour<br />

walk from the park entrance. Whilst it is not<br />

possible to book a permit for a specific group,<br />

your chances of having a shorter walk are higher<br />

than in Uganda. Nothing is guaranteed though<br />

and you may find yourself tracking a group such<br />

as the Susa, first studied by Diane Fossey and<br />

often found on the slopes of Mount Visoke, a<br />

five hour hike away.<br />

Buhoma Lodge<br />

the valley to see the gorillas, and then climb up<br />

the slopes at the end of the day, which can be<br />

more arduous. In short, Uganda tends to be a<br />

harder option than Rwanda.<br />

SABYINYO SILVERBACK LODGE,<br />

VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK<br />

This is our favourite lodge in Rwanda, and has<br />

eight cottages perched on the lower slopes of<br />

the mighty Sabyinyo Volcano. As this is a<br />

community lodge, your stay contributes directly<br />

to the local village’s health and education<br />

projects. With spectacular views over the chain<br />

of volcanoes, spacious cottages where fires are<br />

lit before your return from a day’s trekking, and<br />

hot baths to soak your weary limbs, this is a<br />

wonderful base from which to explore.<br />

Young gorilla<br />

BUHOMA LODGE, BWINDI<br />

IMPENETRABLE FOREST<br />

Surrounded by the sights and sounds of the<br />

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Buhoma Lodge is<br />

a small, friendly lodge only five minutes’ walk<br />

from the park headquarters where you start<br />

your gorilla trekking. Built on the hillside, each<br />

of the eight cottages has a private balcony<br />

overlooking the forest canopy. This is a rustic<br />

and charming lodge with friendly staff, tasty<br />

home-cooked meals and stunning views.<br />

Gorillas in nests in the Virunga Mountains<br />

Gorilla in the Virunga Mountains<br />

Gorilla tracking 109


Rwanda<br />

Located in the heart of East Africa,<br />

Rwanda is one of the continent’s<br />

smallest and most beautiful countries.<br />

The main attraction is provided by<br />

the mountain gorillas in the Virunga<br />

Mountains but the country has so<br />

much more to offer. Rwanda’s scenery<br />

comprises rolling hills covered in a<br />

patchwork quilt of fields, the expanse<br />

of Lake Kivu and the lush montane<br />

vegetation of Nyungwe Forest. The<br />

horrors of the genocide in 1994<br />

affected every family and memorials<br />

are seen throughout the country, but<br />

the nation has repaired itself and is<br />

an astonishingly welcoming and<br />

friendly place to visit. The sense of<br />

community is overwhelming; on the<br />

monthly volunteering day, even the<br />

President helps to sweep the streets<br />

and clear litter, making Kigali one<br />

of Africa’s cleanest capital cities!<br />

Local boy at the Kings Palace<br />

1<br />

1 Volcanoes National Park<br />

Home to mountain gorillas and<br />

golden monkeys.<br />

2 Lake Kivu<br />

A beautiful lake whose sandy<br />

shores are perfect for relaxation<br />

after gorilla tracking.<br />

The outskirts of Kigali<br />

2<br />

4<br />

3<br />

Mountain gorilla<br />

3 Gisozi Genocide<br />

Memorial<br />

The museum in Kigali dedicated<br />

to the 1994 genocide.<br />

4 Nyungwe Forest<br />

Home to chimpanzees, black<br />

and white colobus monkeys and<br />

a profusion of birdlife.<br />

Village scenery between Kigali and Ruhengeri<br />

110


Volcanoes National Park<br />

The Volcanoes National Park protects the<br />

Rwandan side of the Virunga Mountains which<br />

stretch into Uganda and the Democratic Republic<br />

of Congo. The craggy peaks offer a dramatic<br />

backdrop to the surrounding farmland and are<br />

one of the most striking sights in East Africa.<br />

The rainforest which covers the slopes is home<br />

to around 300 mountain gorillas, as well as<br />

buffalo, forest elephant and several troops of<br />

golden monkey. Around half of the gorillas living<br />

in this ecosystem reside on the Rwandan side of<br />

the mountains and gorilla tracking here is one<br />

of the wildlife highlights of Africa.<br />

View of the Volcanoes National Park<br />

Lake Kivu<br />

Only two hours by road from the Volcanoes<br />

National Park is Rwanda’s largest body of water,<br />

Lake Kivu. Three towns lie along the lakeshore –<br />

Gisenyi to the North, Kibuye in the middle and<br />

Cyangugu to the South. The lake’s sandy shore<br />

stretches for miles, and is bordered by steepsided<br />

hills, making for some stunning scenery.<br />

Most people visit the lake for a couple of days<br />

of relaxation after gorilla tracking. It is possible to<br />

take boat trips out onto the lake and your guide<br />

can accompany you to explore one of the<br />

traditional, bustling Rwandan towns.<br />

Golden monkey in the Volcanoes National Park<br />

Nyungwe Forest<br />

Situated in the far south of Rwanda, Nyungwe<br />

Forest National Park protects one of Africa’s<br />

oldest forests. The dense vegetation is a refuge<br />

for thirteen species of primates including<br />

chimpanzees and L’Hoests monkeys. The birdlife<br />

is stunning, and with a little patience, many<br />

unusual forest species can be found here.<br />

Highlights include a sighting of the colourful blue<br />

turaco, and the eerie sound of the forest hornbill<br />

calling in the distance.<br />

Intore dancing at Iby’Iwachu Cultural Village<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Rwanda<br />

We operate completely private tours of<br />

Rwanda, tailoring them to your interests and<br />

timeframe. You are met at the airport by a<br />

driver-guide who will be with you for the<br />

duration of your stay and will take you from<br />

place to place in a 4x4, offering fascinating<br />

insights into Rwandan cultures and traditions.<br />

Because of the compact size of the country,<br />

it is easy to visit the main areas, including<br />

Kigali, the Volcanoes National Park and Lake<br />

Kivu, in a week-long trip. If time is limited it is<br />

possible to spend just a few nights in Rwanda<br />

to see the gorillas before heading on to<br />

Kenya for a safari or time on the beach.<br />

Our specialists have all tracked the gorillas,<br />

and are passionate about sharing this<br />

incredible experience with you.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Rwanda is still very much off the beaten<br />

track and it is important to recognise this<br />

when planning a trip here. The range of<br />

hotels is limited, and in some instances the<br />

only option is a simple guesthouse. At the<br />

Volcanoes National Park however, there are<br />

several options to choose from, ranging from<br />

basic camps to beautiful luxury lodges with<br />

sweeping views of the Virunga Volcanoes.<br />

Standards of service and food will vary, and<br />

visitors should bear in mind that although<br />

eager to please, hoteliers and staff in<br />

Rwanda may not have the same amount<br />

of experience as their counterparts<br />

elsewhere in Africa.<br />

Driving around Rwanda<br />

A tea plantation<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Rwanda, please<br />

see our website.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Rwanda<br />

specialists 01993 838 580<br />

Rwanda 111


Madagascar<br />

165<br />

million years ago, Madagascar<br />

broke free from Africa and<br />

drifted 400 kilometres out into the<br />

Mozambique Channel. Geological forces<br />

thrust up dramatic mountain ranges along<br />

the spine of an island a thousand miles long.<br />

Isolated from the rest of the world, wildlife<br />

evolved along its own distinct path; of<br />

Madagascar’s 200,000 species, more than<br />

80 percent are endemic. The most famous<br />

are the lemurs. This is the place to hear the<br />

eerie wail of the indri echo across misty<br />

rainforests, see sifakas leap across ochre earth<br />

and spot the outline of a bamboo lemur in<br />

the fork of a tree at night. Walks through<br />

the forests will reveal more than lemurs,<br />

however. Pushing past wild ginger ferns<br />

and over buttress roots, you will see a<br />

kaleidoscope of chameleons, frogs and<br />

butterflies. Birds screech in the trees and<br />

uncharted insects march through the leaf<br />

litter. Finally, Madagascar is surrounded<br />

by a halo of small islands. The beaches are<br />

long and sandy; small fishing villages are<br />

shaded by mango and breadfruit trees. Kick<br />

off your walking boots, lie back and watch<br />

the frigate birds soar overhead.<br />

112


<strong>Audley</strong> in Madagascar<br />

1<br />

7<br />

2<br />

3<br />

5<br />

6<br />

4<br />

There is no doubt that Madagascar’s<br />

infrastructure is a few years behind that of its<br />

African neighbours. Flights can be subject to<br />

delays, roads are rutted and accommodation<br />

in some areas can be extremely basic. Our<br />

Madagascar team is extremely experienced<br />

and, because it is a complex country to<br />

operate in, have spent years researching in<br />

the country, seeing all the possible<br />

accommodation options and finding ways<br />

around transport problems. We have<br />

carefully picked a team of guides with<br />

extensive knowledge and more than a bit of<br />

initiative. Provided a trip is planned carefully,<br />

Madagascar is a wonderful place in which to<br />

travel. You can revel in the colour and<br />

vibrancy of the villages and towns, wonder<br />

at the beauty of the rainforests, and laze on<br />

some of the pristine beaches. The country is<br />

not for everyone, but if you have a relaxed<br />

travelling attitude, it is hard not to fall in love<br />

with this beautiful island.<br />

Accommodation<br />

1 Anjajavy Nature Reserve<br />

A private reserve with deciduous<br />

forest and sandy beaches. Easily<br />

viewed lemurs and sifakas.<br />

9<br />

8<br />

4 Masoala National Park<br />

An extremely remote virgin<br />

rainforest dropping to deserted<br />

beaches. Abundant lemurs,<br />

chameleons and frogs.<br />

Accommodation in Madagascar is of a<br />

lower standard than on mainland Africa.<br />

There are no luxurious lodges, large<br />

operators or hotel chains. We love this, as<br />

it means that there is a wonderful array of<br />

places to stay, each different from the next.<br />

In the rainforest there are small camps where<br />

chickens cluck around the garden and their<br />

eggs are collected for breakfast. In villages<br />

and towns you can stay in old colonial<br />

homesteads, and on the coast you can<br />

choose from tiny guesthouses or boutique<br />

hotels. While the standards of comfort may<br />

vary, food is generally good. Madagascar has<br />

a high standard of cuisine that blends<br />

Malagasy, French and Asian influences.<br />

Zebu steaks are a speciality, as are prawns,<br />

crab and fresh fish.<br />

5<br />

Nosy Mangabe<br />

Female panther chameleon<br />

2 Nosy Komba<br />

An idyllic island off the<br />

northern tip of Madagascar.<br />

Ideal for relaxation, snorkelling<br />

and swimming.<br />

3 Amber Mountain<br />

National Park<br />

Dense rainforest with abundant<br />

lemurs, chameleons and frogs.<br />

A small island with dense<br />

rainforest, home to the aye-aye.<br />

6 Ile Sainte Marie<br />

A colourful and vibrant island<br />

with white sandy beaches.<br />

Perfect for relaxing and whale<br />

watching in season.<br />

Mantella frog<br />

Local girl<br />

7 Andasibe National Park<br />

Home to the indri as well as<br />

other easily viewed lemurs<br />

and chameleons.<br />

8 Ifotaka Forest<br />

The sacred forest of the<br />

Antandroy people with a number<br />

of tombs hidden in the trees.<br />

9 Isalo National Park<br />

A beautiful park encompassing<br />

vast savannahs and sandstone<br />

cliffs. Excellent for hiking.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Madagascar,<br />

please see page 127.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Madagascar<br />

specialists 01993 838 585<br />

Madagascar 113


Dusk in Antananarivo<br />

Mouse lemur in Andasibe<br />

Brown lemur in Andasibe National Park<br />

Andasibe National Park<br />

Andasibe, also known as Perinet, covers an area<br />

of montane rainforest at altitudes between 930<br />

metres and 1,040 metres. It is the best park in<br />

which to see the indri, the largest lemur, with two<br />

of the 62 resident groups having been habituated.<br />

There are eight other species of lemur in<br />

Andasibe and the most commonly seen include<br />

the grey bamboo lemur, brown lemur and woolly<br />

lemur. Nocturnal walks are excellent for sightings<br />

of mouse lemurs and the greater dwarf lemur.<br />

There are some wonderful chameleons in the<br />

reserve including the two-foot long Parson’s<br />

chameleon and the tiny nose-horned chameleon.<br />

Frogs are plentiful and birding highlights include<br />

blue and red-fronted coucals and the Madagascar<br />

long-eared owl. All exploring is done on foot<br />

along trails that weave through the forest:<br />

expeditions can vary in length from one hour to<br />

five. Walks are particularly rewarding in the early<br />

morning when indri calls echo through the air.<br />

A cottage at Vakona Forest Lodge<br />

114<br />

VAKONA FOREST LODGE,<br />

ANDASIBE<br />

Vakona Forest Lodge is situated on a hillside<br />

that drops down to a lake. The combination of<br />

luxuriant vegetation and fresh mountain air is<br />

wonderful, the peace disturbed only by the<br />

sound of forest frogs. Dotted around the hillside,<br />

14 basic bungalows each have their own decks.<br />

A number of marked trails leave from the lodge<br />

and thread into the heart of the primary forest.<br />

Antananarivo (Tana)<br />

Antananarivo is built on a series of hills. The King<br />

used to have his palace on the tallest hill and<br />

from there he would look down over the smaller<br />

hills where his wives lived. The city grew from<br />

these origins and modern day Tana now sprawls<br />

across the hills in a disorganised but relatively<br />

attractive fashion. Tana is a working African city<br />

with totally chaotic traffic. Taxi-brousses zip along<br />

roads that are also home to zebu-carts, people<br />

pushing homemade wheelbarrows, and street<br />

traders. There are paddy fields in the suburbs<br />

where zebu graze and cattle egrets mix with<br />

ducks and chickens. In the centre of town,<br />

colonial houses, cobbled streets and modern<br />

office blocks all sit alongside each other. Nearly<br />

all trips to Madagascar require at least one night<br />

in Tana. We recommend staying in the centre of<br />

town and enjoying a meal in one of the city’s<br />

excellent restaurants.<br />

Pavillon de l’Emyrne<br />

PAVILLON DE L’EMYRNE,<br />

ANTANANARIVO<br />

Pavillon de l’Emyrne is a charming colonial house<br />

in the Isoraka area of Tana. The house is set in<br />

pretty gardens and has lots of character, with<br />

wood-panelled corridors, high beamed ceilings,<br />

open fireplaces and antique furniture. Located<br />

near to some of Tana’s nicest restaurants, it is<br />

ideal for an overnight stop.<br />

Indri – the largest lemur species


Madagascar’s wildlife<br />

Ring-tailed lemurs<br />

One of the joys of Madagascar is that none of<br />

the wildlife is dangerous to humans, and you<br />

can explore the parks on foot. Rambling along<br />

the soft paths of a rainforest you will pass lush<br />

vegetation which, on close inspection, is alive<br />

with creatures. Chameleons the size of your<br />

thumbnail, leaf geckos camouflaged against the<br />

bark and tiny frogs the size of paper clips can<br />

all be found. Of course, the lemurs are the<br />

highlight, with numerous species readily seen.<br />

Madagascar’s wildlife is weird and wonderful –<br />

a fascinating mix of endemic creatures that<br />

have taken their own evolutionary paths<br />

over the millenia.<br />

Lemurs<br />

Madagascar is famous for its lemur species, of<br />

which there are 53 currently known varieties.<br />

Lemurs are prosimians, or pre-monkeys, and<br />

share characteristics with early primates. Whilst<br />

other prosimians are found in Africa, namely<br />

bushbabies, lemurs are endemic to Madagascar.<br />

Lemurs are particularly appealing animals, with<br />

soft fur, bright inquisitive eyes and a naturally<br />

curious nature. They are easily habituated to<br />

humans and can often be viewed at close<br />

quarters. Probably the best known are the<br />

ring-tailed lemurs which are found in southern<br />

Madagascar. Other lemurs of particular interest<br />

are the indri and the sifaka. The indri, the<br />

largest of the species, is found in Andasibe<br />

Chameleon<br />

National Park and is known for its eerie call<br />

that echoes across the forest. Sifakas are<br />

famous for their unique upright leaping across<br />

the ground, making them resemble a triple<br />

jump athlete. Effortlessly graceful in the trees,<br />

they are almost comical on the ground but<br />

provide one of Madagascar’s great sights. Aside<br />

from these, two of the most delightful groups<br />

are the dwarf and mouse lemurs. Dwarf lemurs<br />

are relatively slow moving whilst mouse lemurs<br />

are lively. The smallest of the mouse lemurs is<br />

the pygmy mouse lemur, a creature so tiny it<br />

could fit inside an egg cup. As some lemurs are<br />

diurnal and others nocturnal, walks occur in<br />

both day and night time, allowing you to see<br />

the maximum number of different animals.<br />

Reptiles & frogs<br />

Madagascar currently has 340 known reptile<br />

and frog species, 90 percent of which are<br />

endemic. Chameleons are the most striking of<br />

these and are seen incredibly easily. They range<br />

dramatically in size, with Parson’s chameleon<br />

measuring two feet long and the pygmy stumptailed<br />

chameleon reaching just 33 millimetres.<br />

With bright colours, funny noses, curly tails and<br />

rotating eyes these wonderful creatures can<br />

keep you occupied for hours.<br />

Whilst Madagascar has no lizards, it does<br />

have some interesting geckos. Of particular<br />

note are the day geckos with coats of emerald<br />

green. The most extraordinary are the leaf<br />

tailed geckos, camouflaged to look exactly like<br />

bark. Your eyes can be a foot away from one<br />

and still you will not see it. Luckily, our guides<br />

are extremely good at picking them out!<br />

The final reptile worth noting is the snake.<br />

There is a total absence of venomous snakes<br />

in Madagascar and the snake you are most<br />

likely to see is the slow moving boa.<br />

Frog on a leaf<br />

www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ● 01993 838 585 ● Madagascar 115


River running through Ranomafana National Park<br />

Ranomafana National Park<br />

Ranomafana National Park is part of the lush<br />

chain of rainforest that runs down Madagascar’s<br />

east coast. The steep hills are covered in thick<br />

vegetation, occasionally broken by waterfalls and<br />

mountain streams. The park’s star attraction is<br />

the golden bamboo lemur, often found grazing<br />

amongst the bamboo thickets. Eleven other<br />

species of lemur found here include diademed<br />

sifakas that leap through the canopy during the<br />

day, and tiny mouse lemurs that race up and<br />

down tree trunks by night. Heading deep into the<br />

park, you may hear the calls of cuckoo rollers,<br />

catch a glimpse of a leaf-tailed gecko or stumble<br />

upon the graves of the Tanala, the ‘people of the<br />

forest’. It is well worth spending a few days hiking<br />

around this enchanting park.<br />

SETAM LODGE, RANOMAFANA<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Setam Lodge comprises a handful of clean and<br />

simple bungalows built into the hillside just<br />

outside Ranomafana National Park. The lodge has<br />

spectacular views over the park, so guests awake<br />

each day to the sight of the early morning mist<br />

rising from the rainforest. Setam is the closest<br />

lodge to the park gate, making it an excellent<br />

base from which to explore.<br />

The realities of travel in Madagascar<br />

A trip around Madagascar is very different<br />

from one on mainland Africa. It is important<br />

not to expect a polished safari but to<br />

approach your trip with a relaxed attitude<br />

and sense of humour. Accommodation is in<br />

all sorts of buildings from converted colonial<br />

houses to A-frame reed and thatch chalets.<br />

All are unique in character and some have<br />

more than a few quirks. Internal flights can be<br />

subject to delays and more than one<br />

member of our team has flown with a crate<br />

of noisy chickens in the back of the aircraft.<br />

The airports are small and often quite chaotic<br />

but surprisingly tasty hot samosas and cold<br />

drinks can be found in the tiny restaurants.<br />

There is rarely a dull moment in a<br />

Madagascar airport as the arrival and<br />

departure of planes often attracts local<br />

children. The Malagasy people are<br />

welcoming, but there may well be a language<br />

barrier as English is not always widely spoken.<br />

It is useful to have a basic grasp of French<br />

and we advise that you take a phrasebook.<br />

Despite the challenges of travel in<br />

Madagascar, we can’t recommend it highly<br />

enough! The guides are knowledgeable, the<br />

wildlife is exciting, and it is refreshing to be<br />

out of a vehicle and exploring on foot.<br />

Now is an excellent time to visit the country<br />

before it has been ‘discovered’ by the<br />

masses. Our advice would be to revel in the<br />

chaos, the colour and the wildlife – and just<br />

don’t bother to take your watch.<br />

116<br />

Setam Lodge<br />

Giraffe weevil


Isalo at sunset<br />

Brown lemur in Isalo<br />

Red bellied lemur<br />

Isalo National Park<br />

Isalo’s golden sandstone cliffs can be seen rising<br />

from the plains from many miles away. The<br />

national park is home to some of Madagascar’s<br />

most stunning scenery, and is a sacred place for<br />

the Bara tribe, whose burial sites are marked by<br />

countless mounds of tiny stones.<br />

Hiking up to the massif, visitors enter a barren<br />

wonderland of twisted rock formations and<br />

extraordinary plants, shimmering in the heat of<br />

the plateau. Squat elephant’s foot plants cling to<br />

the rocks, a few dry grasses blow in the wind, and<br />

succulent aloes thrive. Wildlife concentrates in the<br />

numerous shady gorges and cool running streams<br />

that carve through the massif. Deciduous<br />

woodland grows in each canyon’s higher levels,<br />

and it is here that Isalo’s lemurs are most often<br />

found. Brown lemurs feed amongst the branches,<br />

Verreaux’s sifakas leap from rock to rock, and<br />

troops of cheeky ringtails wander along the<br />

pathways. Deeper in the gorges, only a few shafts<br />

of sunlight penetrate to the streams, and dripping<br />

mosses and ferns line the walls. Occasionally the<br />

streams become blocked, forming tiny tropical<br />

pools amongst the rocks. The clear air, tumbling<br />

waterfalls, and cool water make a wonderful<br />

respite from a hot day’s hiking over the plateau.<br />

Satrana Lodge<br />

RELAIS DE LA REINE, ISALO<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Cleverly hidden amongst the rocks of Isalo,<br />

Relais de la Reine has the feel of a Mediterranean<br />

farmhouse. The thick stone walls provide a<br />

shelter from hot summer days and crackling open<br />

fires warm chilly winter nights. As is the case<br />

wherever you are in Isalo, views are magnificent.<br />

Sitting on the terrace for sundowners is a delight,<br />

as the setting sun paints darker shades on the<br />

golden-pink cliffs above.<br />

Bara tribe sacred burial site<br />

SATRANA LODGE, ISALO<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

Satrana Lodge is a new addition to the Isalo<br />

area and has 40 safari tents tucked beneath a<br />

sandstone massif. Each of the tents is set on a<br />

raised platform and is stylishly furnished inside.<br />

The en suite bathrooms have both indoor and<br />

outdoor showers. The dining area in the lodge<br />

makes the most of the impressive scenery via its<br />

huge bay windows and offers excellent Malagasy<br />

and French cuisine. There is a small library and<br />

a good sized swimming pool.<br />

Relais de la Reine<br />

www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ● 01993 838 585 ● Madagascar 117


St Luce Bay, Manafiafy<br />

Wrestling match in Antandroy Village<br />

The Ifotaka<br />

Community Forest<br />

The Ifotaka Community Forest is as remote as it<br />

is wild. It covers a huge expanse of gallery and<br />

spiny forest and has been protected by the<br />

Antandroy, one of Madagascar’s fiercest and<br />

most traditional tribes. Their ancestors are buried<br />

in the sacred forests: guarding their graves, the<br />

Antandroy have also preserved pristine wildlife<br />

areas. Species including ring-tailed, mouse,<br />

sportive and sifaka lemurs are all readily seen,<br />

as well as many bird species. Many tombs are<br />

hidden in the forest undergrowth, and your guide<br />

will explain the traditions and rituals of ancestor<br />

worship. It is possible to visit the ombiasy<br />

(traditional healer), learn how to use the piletse,<br />

a zebu-hide slingshot, and take a zebu-cart to<br />

the colourful market at Fenaivo.<br />

MANDRARE RIVER CAMP,<br />

IFOTAKA COMMUNITY FOREST<br />

This pretty camp has six tents set under<br />

tamarind trees on the banks of the Mandrare<br />

River. Each comfortable tent has a large bedroom<br />

and en suite bathroom with hot bucket shower.<br />

The sun rises directly in front of the tents, giving<br />

breathtaking early morning views. At night, there<br />

being absolutely no light pollution, the stars are<br />

the best you’ll see anywhere in Africa. With some<br />

of Madagascar’s best guides, this camp is well<br />

suited to wildlife enthusiasts.<br />

Mandrare River Camp<br />

Manafiafy<br />

Manafiafy is a sleepy fishing village on the bay of<br />

St Luce in southern Madagascar. This was where<br />

the first Portuguese landed in Madagascar in 1613,<br />

as the bay’s sheltered waters provided safe<br />

anchorage. The village has changed little since<br />

those times and the smell of cloves and vanilla<br />

View from chalet, Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest Lodge<br />

sweeten the air. Nowadays, local fishermen paddle<br />

their dugout canoes through the calm waters to<br />

the open ocean beyond. The sandy beaches are<br />

backed by forests where lemurs, chameleons and<br />

geckos can be seen. Offshore there are coral reefs<br />

rich in marine life and humpback whales pass by<br />

from mid June until early December.<br />

MANAFIAFY BEACH AND<br />

RAINFOREST LODGE, MANAFIAFY<br />

This lodge has an idyllic setting, surrounded by<br />

azure blue seas, lush verdant forests, and distant<br />

mountains. There are six comfortable bungalows<br />

tucked into the forest overlooking the beach.<br />

Each has a large bedroom which opens onto a<br />

shady terrace with sun beds, a hammock and table<br />

and chairs for outdoor dining. The lodge prides<br />

itself on its cuisine, with seafood a speciality. Fresh<br />

mussels, oysters, crab, lobster and fish are bought<br />

from the fishermen daily and exquisitely prepared<br />

for candlelit dinners on the beach.<br />

118


Verreaux’s sifaka<br />

The beach at Ambola<br />

Baobab in Tsimanampetsotsa<br />

Anakao<br />

Anakao is a Vezo fishing village around 50<br />

kilometres south of Tulear. The terrible roads<br />

make boat the best way to reach Anakao, and<br />

fleets of pirogues line the shore. The inaccessibility<br />

of the village means that modern development<br />

has largely passed Anakao by. Most of the<br />

villagers are fishermen and shortly after dawn<br />

each morning you’ll see tens of tiny sails flutter<br />

across the water.<br />

Anakao has some pretty beaches. Offshore, the<br />

tiny island of Nosy Ve has a white sandy shoreline,<br />

and is home to hundreds of tropicbirds. The reefs<br />

offer good diving and snorkelling with a myriad of<br />

fish including surgeonfish, angelfish, butterflyfish,<br />

groupers and rays. On the outskirts of Anakao<br />

village you will find some interesting tombs and<br />

once you are clear of the populated areas you<br />

start to see wildlife including ring-tailed lemurs,<br />

tortoises, chameleons, geckos and other lizards.<br />

The village at Anakao<br />

ANAKAO OCEAN LODGE,<br />

ANAKAO<br />

Anakao Ocean Lodge is a ten minute boat ride<br />

from the village. It has 25 thatched stone<br />

rondavels built in two rows along the back of a<br />

long sandy beach. The main lodge is a large,<br />

round, stone building housing the bar and<br />

restaurant under a soaring thatched roof. From<br />

the restaurant, it’s possible to see straight into<br />

the kitchen, where the chef cooks French and<br />

Malagasy food, often using fish from the sea<br />

nearby. Outside there is a small terrace, where<br />

guests eat lazy lunches and listen to the waves.<br />

Ambola & Tsimanampetsotsa<br />

National Park<br />

Ambola is a small and typically Malagasy coastal<br />

village at the end of a magnificent stretch of<br />

white sand in a very remote and beautiful part of<br />

Madagascar. Here you can enjoy the beach and<br />

also some of the fascinating flora endemic to the<br />

south – it is a perfect little place for a short stop.<br />

Ambola is also the place from which to explore<br />

the Tsimanampetsotsa National Park. Amongst<br />

the spiny forest you will get the chance to see<br />

some extraordinary baobabs, a salt water lake<br />

full of flamingos and an endemic species of fish<br />

that is entirely blind.<br />

HOTEL AMBOLA, AMBOLA<br />

Located on one of the most majestic beaches in<br />

the region, this small hotel has just five rooms.<br />

Each is simple but is imaginatively decorated with<br />

traditional woodcarvings. En suite bathrooms<br />

have showers and hot water is available on<br />

request. The hotel has a well located restaurant<br />

overlooking the lagoon. Here you can very<br />

happily while away some time reading a book<br />

and observing the local fishermen sailing past in<br />

their pirogues. The hotel is particularly lovely<br />

from June to September when humpback whales<br />

can be seen offshore.<br />

A suite at Anakao Ocean Lodge<br />

Female panther chameleon<br />

www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ● 01993 838 585 ● Madagascar 119


Red-ruffed lemur<br />

Masoala National Park<br />

Masoala National Park is Madagascar’s largest<br />

park and one of its least visited. Primary rainforest<br />

covers a range of mountains and drops down to<br />

the deserted beaches of Antongil Bay where<br />

humpback whales come to breed and calve. The<br />

Masoala rainforest is beautiful, with tall palisander<br />

trees, vines, wild ginger plants, ferns and orchids.<br />

Chameleons are easily found: the most<br />

commonly-seen species include the panther<br />

chameleon, hooded chameleon and several<br />

species of stump-tailed chameleon. Masoala is<br />

the last refuge of the red-ruffed lemur, who you<br />

will often see sunning on the tops of trees in the<br />

morning. At night, eastern woolly lemurs can<br />

frequently be seen sitting in the tree forks, and<br />

white-fronted brown lemur, brown mouse lemur<br />

and the aye-aye are also resident. On the ground<br />

a surprising number of lowland streaked tenrecs<br />

(small hedgehog-like creatures) rustle through the<br />

vegetation in their endless search for insects.<br />

Masoala Forest Camp<br />

120<br />

Tree boa<br />

MASOALA FOREST CAMP,<br />

MASOALA NATIONAL PARK<br />

Masoala Forest Camp is built on a golden-sand<br />

beach where the rainforest meets the sea. There<br />

are five tents on raised platforms, each with a<br />

hammock where you can relax on hot afternoons,<br />

watching the birds and geckos. The chef, Estrina,<br />

is particularly good, conjuring up wonderful meals<br />

using fresh, local ingredients. Activity options<br />

include wildlife walks in the rainforest, snorkelling<br />

and kayaking along the coast.<br />

Nosy Mangabe<br />

Nosy Mangabe is a small island located in<br />

Antongil Bay two kilometres offshore from<br />

Maroantsetra. The island has a rich history of<br />

piracy, and as you arrive by boat, it looks exactly<br />

like a pirates’ hang-out. Dense vegetation drops<br />

to large boulders and hidden coves – one of<br />

which has a rusty shipwreck emerging from the<br />

shallows. The island is a rainforest reserve and<br />

sanctuary for the endangered aye-aye which was<br />

introduced in 1966. This is the best place in<br />

Madagascar to see these fascinating creatures and<br />

an overnight stay is recommended to give you<br />

the chance to search by torchlight. Other lemurs<br />

on the island include black and white ruffed<br />

lemur, white-fronted brown lemur and the brown<br />

mouse lemur. As there is no accommodation on<br />

the island, the only way to stay overnight is to<br />

camp, and as paths through the forest can be<br />

steep, it’s a place for keen walkers.<br />

CAMPING SAUVAGE,<br />

NOSY MANGABE<br />

The camping on Nosy Mangabe is referred to<br />

as camping sauvage and this is an accurate<br />

description. You will stay in simple dome tents on<br />

a rudimentary campsite that has only the most<br />

basic washing facilities. Whilst the camping is wild,<br />

the experience is wonderful. At night, the forest<br />

rings with the calls of frogs and at dawn, an<br />

atmospheric mist hangs over the trees.<br />

Camping on Nosy Mangabe


Tomato frog<br />

Crowned lemur<br />

The Cascade Sacree Waterfall, Amber Mountain<br />

Amber Mountain<br />

National Park<br />

Amber Mountain National Park is situated in the<br />

far north of Madagascar, 40 kilometres south of<br />

Diego Suarez. Whilst Diego can be hot and dry,<br />

Amber Mountain is always cool and fresh with<br />

mists hanging over the huge strangler figs,<br />

quinine trees and enormous birds-nest ferns.<br />

Even non-birders are amazed by the spectacular<br />

species found here, including the Madagascar<br />

crested ibis and the paradise flycatcher, with its<br />

long trailing tail feathers.<br />

The park is rewarding for walkers, with several<br />

beautiful trails threading through the forest.<br />

Two trails lead to waterfalls, the Cascade<br />

d’Antomboka and the Cascade Sacrée. On foot<br />

you have the chance to discover all the smaller<br />

Nature Lodge<br />

wildlife such as the leaf-mimic chameleons, tree<br />

boas, leaf-tailed geckos, butterflies and pill<br />

millipedes which curl up into perfect balls. There<br />

are seven lemur species in the park, including<br />

the crowned lemur and Sanford’s brown lemur,<br />

and hikers usually see at least one if not two of<br />

the diurnal species. There is no accommodation<br />

in the Amber Mountain National Park itself, but<br />

the nearby village of Joffreville offers a flavour of<br />

rural Malagasy life and is a good base from<br />

which to explore.<br />

THE LITCHI TREE, JOFFREVILLE<br />

In 2007 a young Frenchman called Hervé Dumel<br />

began renovating the old Admiral’s House which<br />

had stood empty for years on a hill overlooking<br />

Joffreville. Hervé lovingly restored it to its former<br />

glory and turned it into an upmarket boutique<br />

hotel. Grand stairs lead up to the house and into<br />

an elegant dining area, library and lounge. At the<br />

back of the house, the stable blocks have been<br />

converted into bedrooms. With lots of character<br />

and good food this is an enjoyable place to stay.<br />

NATURE LODGE, JOFFREVILLE<br />

Nature Lodge is located on a hill two kilometres<br />

south of Joffreville, centred around a restaurant<br />

that serves local food, and a small sociable bar.<br />

Accommodation is in 12 simple thatched chalets<br />

made from local wood, each with a deck that is<br />

perfect for taking in the superb views of Diego<br />

Suarez and the Indian Ocean beyond.<br />

Female panther chameleon<br />

Tsingy at Ankarana<br />

Ankarana Special Reserve<br />

Ankarana is a four hour drive from Amber<br />

Mountain and is one of the best places in<br />

Madagascar to see limestone tsingy. The tsingy<br />

rises up from deciduous forest and although a<br />

few tiny succulent plants cling to the rocks,<br />

they are largely bare and spiky. A few pathways<br />

wind through the tsingy, and hiking is challenging<br />

but rewarding, with some spectacular views.<br />

Several caves stretch for miles into the rocks<br />

and are inhabited by colonies of hundreds of<br />

bats. Walking in the caves, you’ll see twisted<br />

limestone formations glint in the torchlight.<br />

The deciduous forest is home to crowned and<br />

Sanford’s brown lemurs. Two nocturnal lemurs;<br />

the grey mouse lemur and the northern<br />

sportive lemur are also present.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ● 01993 838 585 ● Madagascar 121


The beach at Tsarabanjina Island<br />

Madagascar’s beaches<br />

Madagascar is fringed by sandy beaches and a<br />

number of beautiful islands. Some, such as Nosy<br />

Be, are well known and others, such as Ile Sainte<br />

Marie, Nosy Komba, Tsarabanjina and the<br />

Radama Islands, are lesser known and much<br />

sleepier. Here, it is easy to find deserted beaches<br />

with soft sand and clear water. Hermit crabs<br />

scuttle through the dense undergrowth at the<br />

back of the beaches and – particularly in the<br />

north – frigate birds can be seen soaring<br />

overhead. Many of the islands have villages on<br />

or nearby them and you become accustomed to<br />

the daily sight of fishermen paddling wooden<br />

pirogues, or dhows sailing past, often so filled<br />

with thatching palms, grain and cows that they<br />

float just inches above the water.<br />

The islands are easy to access and could not be<br />

more ideal for relaxation after some strenuous<br />

hiking in the rainforest. Nothing is better than<br />

hanging up your hiking boots and sinking your<br />

toes into warm sand. Days can be spent<br />

snorkelling, diving, pottering around on a bicycle<br />

or just snoozing in a hammock.<br />

Chilli peppers at the local market<br />

Local girl on Nosy Komba<br />

122<br />

Pirogue off Ile Ste-Marie


La Crique Beach, Ile Ste Marie<br />

Ile Sainte Marie<br />

Ile Sainte Marie is a sleepy island off Madagascar’s<br />

northeast coast, ringed by deserted beaches<br />

with soft sand and palm trees, traditional fishing<br />

villages, and just a handful of small lodges. The<br />

island is renowned for its seafood and is the best<br />

place in Madagascar to eat crab. If you are brave<br />

you can also sample the island tipple – coconut<br />

milk enlivened by a large measure of Pastis.<br />

Ile Sainte Marie is about 60 kilometres long and<br />

five kilometres wide and has a colourful history:<br />

through the 17th and 18th centuries it was a<br />

popular base for the Indian Ocean’s pirates. It has<br />

just one town, Ambodifotatra, with a couple of<br />

cafés, a large church and a busy market.<br />

Numerous villages dotted around the island have<br />

bamboo huts, fat ducks crossing the road and<br />

geese swimming in rainfilled potholes. Mango,<br />

clove, cinammon and breadfruit trees line roads<br />

The jetty at Boraha Villas<br />

A villa at Princesse Bora Lodge<br />

that are never far from the beach. If you cycle<br />

through the villages in the evening, you will smell<br />

the food being cooked, hear music playing from<br />

the radios, and there is often a group of men<br />

playing boules under a tree in Volihava village.<br />

Ile Sainte Marie can be visited from April right<br />

through until December, but is particularly<br />

rewarding from July to September when groups<br />

of humpback whales come to breed and calve in<br />

the calm waters of the Indian Ocean. The cloves<br />

are harvested in November and the mangos and<br />

litchis come into season in December: only the<br />

months of January to March are marred by the<br />

cyclone season. With all these enticing features<br />

just a short flight from Antananarivo, it is<br />

surprising that this island has remained so<br />

thoroughly unspoiled.<br />

PRINCESSE BORA LODGE,<br />

ILE SAINTE MARIE<br />

Princesse Bora Lodge is situated in a grove of<br />

palm trees on the south-west side of the island.<br />

The beach has white sand shelving into a<br />

sheltered lagoon and faces west, ideal for<br />

spectacular sunsets. Accommodation is in 20 villas<br />

with decks and hammocks, there is an infinity<br />

pool and a dining room serving good French and<br />

Malagasy cuisine. The lodge is particularly pretty<br />

at night when it is lit by paraffin lanterns.<br />

BORAHA VILLAS,<br />

ILE SAINTE MARIE<br />

Boraha Villas is a small lodge located on a hilltop<br />

on the east coast of the island. The 13 bungalows<br />

have hammocks and ocean views. The lodge is<br />

well known for its food and the crab is a<br />

speciality. You can eat in the dining room or,<br />

better still, on the end of the jetty, surrounded by<br />

the clear turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.<br />

Boraha Villas<br />

www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ● 01993 838 585 ● Madagascar 123


Pirogue offshore from Anjajavy<br />

Anjajavy Private<br />

Nature Reserve<br />

With an idyllically remote location on<br />

Madagascar’s northwest coast, Anjajavy is reached<br />

only by air. Flying towards the airstrip you pass<br />

thick forest that stops abruptly at the sea, shading<br />

white sand coves separated by limestone<br />

headlands. A handful of dhows and pirogues bob<br />

in the water and in small clearings you see the<br />

thatched huts of the Sakalava fishing villages.<br />

The Anjajavy Private Nature Reserve covers an<br />

area of 450 hectares and is predominantly dry<br />

deciduous forest. There are over 1,800 floral<br />

species to be found here, most endemic and<br />

several medicinal. Wildlife is prolific and a walk<br />

through the forest reveals chameleons, frogs<br />

and spore of bush-pigs and the elusive fossa.<br />

The pool at Anjajavy L’Hôtel<br />

124<br />

Sifaka<br />

There are two diurnal lemur species, the<br />

common brown lemur and Coquerel’s sifaka,<br />

both of which are easily seen. Nocturnal species<br />

include sportive and mouse lemurs.<br />

A stay at Anjajavy is as much about the coast as<br />

the forest. Boat trips explore the mysterious<br />

islands of Moramba Bay, where there are sacred<br />

baobab trees and Sakalava tombs tucked high in<br />

caves and on ledges in the limestone cliffs.<br />

Running the length of the reserve is a series of<br />

small coves, each one more beautiful than the<br />

last. Paths lead from one to the other meaning<br />

that you can take a picnic and your snorkelling<br />

equipment and spend an afternoon on your<br />

own private beach.<br />

ANJAJAVY L’HÔTEL, ANJAJAVY<br />

PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE<br />

Anjajavy is set in extensive tropical gardens,<br />

backed by thick forest and looking out over the<br />

turquoise waters of the Mozambique Channel.<br />

There are 25 air-conditioned rosewood villas, all<br />

of which face the sea and are a step away from<br />

the beach. Early in the morning, Madagascar<br />

lovebirds, red fodys and Madagascar wagtails flit<br />

about the gardens. In the afternoons, groups of<br />

brown lemurs and Coquerel’s sifakas leap through<br />

the trees to the forest behind. The atmosphere is<br />

warm and relaxed at Anjajavy and it is a perfect<br />

place to lounge by the pool, explore idyllic<br />

beaches and savour the excellent food, especially<br />

the freshly-baked pastries. There are also plenty<br />

of active options, including walks in the forest,<br />

village visits, boat trips in the mangroves, sailing,<br />

snorkelling, and kayaking. We recommend that<br />

you stay for at least five days to really explore<br />

this remote and idyllic area.<br />

A rosewood chalet at Anjajavy L’Hôtel


One of Anjajavy's beaches<br />

Baobab Beach<br />

Tsara Komba, Nosy Komba<br />

View from a chalet at Tsara Komba<br />

Nosy Komba<br />

Nosy Komba is a beautiful island a few kilometres<br />

away from the mainland, known for its population<br />

of habituated black lemurs. Hills fold dramatically<br />

into the water, creating sandy coves and sheltered<br />

harbours for fishing villages. The island’s main<br />

settlement is Ampangorinana, where the villagers<br />

now have a keen eye for business: the dusty lanes<br />

are lined with embroidered tablecloths, woven<br />

baskets and wood carvings. Outside the village,<br />

island life is quiet. There are numerous deserted<br />

coves to explore as well as paths that lead<br />

through tavy farms and into the hills where you<br />

will find birds, chameleons and black lemurs.<br />

TSARA KOMBA, NOSY KOMBA<br />

Tsara Komba is a characterful little property set<br />

above an idyllic beach on Nosy Komba. Granite<br />

pathways flanked by beautiful tropical flowers<br />

lead you from the beach up to the eight<br />

thatched bungalows dotted around the hillside.<br />

Each bungalow has a large bedroom and<br />

bathroom and shady veranda with stunning sea<br />

view. Also perched on the hillside are the<br />

restaurant and bar, shaded by thatch but open<br />

to the sea breeze. The restaurant serves excellent<br />

Malagasy and French food with the emphasis on<br />

seafood. There is a good selection of wine as well<br />

as Tsara Komba’s famous coconut rum punch.<br />

Baobab Beach<br />

Baobab Beach is a remote stretch of coastline on<br />

the furthest tip of the Anjanojano Peninsula, only<br />

accessible by boat from the small fishing village of<br />

Ankify or the island of Nosy Be. There is a long<br />

stretch of beach, backed by forest and dotted<br />

with baobab trees. The forest is home to a<br />

number of lemurs including a troop of fifty which<br />

are seen most days. Turtles use the beach to<br />

nest and visitors can often watch the young<br />

turtles hatch. Offshore, humpback whales may be<br />

seen during the seasonal migration from July to<br />

September and dolphins are present year-round.<br />

EDEN LODGE, BAOBAB BEACH<br />

Eden Lodge is built on the edge of Baobab Beach<br />

in grounds of 20 acres. It prides itself on its<br />

eco-credentials with 90% of its energy provided<br />

by solar panels. There are eight tents set under<br />

makuti thatch. At the front of each tent, a shady<br />

veranda has ocean views whilst at the back, an<br />

en suite bathroom opens onto a private massage<br />

area. An open air dining room serves good<br />

Malagasy and Oriental cuisine. Snorkelling from<br />

the beach at Eden is particularly rewarding as<br />

there is abundant healthy coral and a good<br />

number of turtles. Chameleons and lemurs are<br />

readily seen in the gardens.<br />

Eden Lodge<br />

www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ● 01993 838 585 ● Madagascar 125


One of Tsarabanjina’s beautiful beaches<br />

The Nosy Mitsio Archipelago<br />

The Nosy Mitsio Archipelago is a long way from<br />

the mainland and accessible only by speedboat.<br />

Skimming over the water, you often glimpse<br />

bottle nosed dolphins and green turtles coming<br />

up for air. The arrival is breathtaking, as your boat<br />

slows amongst tiny islands, lush with tropical<br />

vegetation and ringed with powder-white<br />

beaches. Few parts of Madagascar suffer from<br />

light pollution and this is no exception: at night<br />

the stars glitter brightly over the water. The<br />

archipelago is made up of about a dozen islands.<br />

La Grande Mitsio is the largest with the small<br />

farming villages of Antakarana and Akalava on it.<br />

Tsarabanjina is beautiful with volcanic rocks, palms<br />

and badamier trees and four gently shelving<br />

beaches. Nosy Ankarea is surrounded by coral<br />

reefs, while Les Quatres Frères is made up of<br />

four imposing silver basalt rocks, covered by<br />

hundreds of nesting seabirds.<br />

Bungalow at Tsarabanjina Island<br />

126<br />

Coral, Tsarabanjina<br />

TSARABANJINA ISLAND,<br />

NOSY MITSIO ARCHIPELAGO<br />

As soon as you step off the boat from Nosy Be<br />

onto Tsarabanjina Island, you will be handed a<br />

mask, snorkel and flippers. Then you walk<br />

barefoot to your villa, hop into your hammock<br />

and relax – your stay has begun. Tsarabanjina<br />

Island covers just 22 hectares, with 18 guest<br />

bungalows linked by sandy paths that weave in<br />

and out of the coconut palms and reach four<br />

beaches, all with powder white sand and<br />

turquoise waters. Days can be spent snorkelling,<br />

diving, kayaking and enjoying the excellent<br />

French cuisine served up by the chef in the<br />

beachside restaurant.<br />

Sailing in Madagascar<br />

Chartering a yacht allows guests a<br />

unique opportunity to explore totally<br />

untouched islands off Madagascar’s<br />

northwest coast. You can sail to Nosy<br />

Komba, the Nosy Mitsio Islands or the<br />

fabulously remote Radama Islands.<br />

We will design a route to match your<br />

interests, be they snorkelling, diving,<br />

fishing or visiting private beaches. At<br />

the end of the charter, the skipper will<br />

drop you off at your next hotel.<br />

We can arrange for you to charter one<br />

of seven vessels, ranging in size from<br />

small yachts for two or four guests to<br />

catamarans sleeping eight or more.<br />

The yachts come with an experienced<br />

skipper and chef and can be chartered<br />

for anything from three days to a few<br />

weeks. The yachts are well priced<br />

making this a very affordable option.


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Madagascar specialists to<br />

start planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 585<br />

Getting around<br />

Antananarivo<br />

Antsirabe<br />

Ranomafana<br />

Ambalavao<br />

Ambola<br />

Isalo National Park<br />

Anakao<br />

Ankarana<br />

Nosy Komba<br />

Antananarivo<br />

Joffreville<br />

Ile Sainte Marie<br />

There are two main ways to get around<br />

Madagascar, by air or in a car driven by an<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> guide. As a general rule, people tend to<br />

fly around the north and drive in the south. In<br />

Northern Madagascar, distances are huge and<br />

roads poor and for this reason it is best to fly.<br />

Air Madagascar has a network of domestic flights,<br />

all of which originate in Antananarivo and radiate<br />

to airports in the north where you will meet your<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> guide and head off to explore. The main<br />

road south from Antananarivo, the Route 7, is a<br />

tar road winding through a number of villages and<br />

towns. It’s a scenic route and a trip exploring the<br />

south takes around ten days.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✕ ✕ ✕ ~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Madagascar runs across several latitudes and its<br />

climate varies. Broadly speaking, the north is hot<br />

and tropical, the west temperate, the east wet<br />

and the south dry. In April, May and June there<br />

are some heavy downpours, but these are<br />

interspersed with sunshine. The country is green<br />

and fresh after the rain and lemurs and reptiles<br />

are active and readily seen. June, July and August<br />

are cool and dry and ideal for exploring. The<br />

whales arrive on Ile Sainte-Marie in July and<br />

remain until the end of September. September,<br />

October and November are particularly lovely as<br />

the weather is warm, the jacarandas are in flower<br />

and many lemurs have young. The most rain falls<br />

from January to March and these are the only<br />

months in which we advise against travel.<br />

Time difference: GMT+3 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 12 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Madagascar on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Classic Southern<br />

Madagascar<br />

This is a journey through the towns, villages and<br />

diverse national parks of Southern Madagascar.<br />

Meeting your guide at the airport, you enjoy an<br />

evening in Antananarivo before heading south at<br />

a leisurely pace. As you travel, you will see paddy<br />

fields, zebu carts and colourful roadside stalls. In<br />

the parks you will hike in the rainforest, across<br />

plains and to rock pools and waterfalls. You should<br />

see numerous lemurs as well as chameleons and<br />

frogs. The trip ends with four days relaxing on<br />

the beach.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4-5<br />

Day 6<br />

Days 7-8<br />

Days 9-10<br />

Fly from the UK to Antananarivo via<br />

Paris overnight.<br />

Arrive in Antananarivo for one night<br />

at Pavillion de L’Emyrne.<br />

Guided drive to Antsirabe for one<br />

night. Afternoon exploring Antsirabe.<br />

Guided drive to Ranomafana for two<br />

nights at Setam Lodge. Wildlife walks<br />

in Ranomafana with your guide.<br />

Guided drive to Ambalavao for<br />

one night.<br />

Guided drive to Isalo National Park<br />

for two nights at Relais de la Reine.<br />

Wildlife walks in the Isalo with<br />

your guide.<br />

Guided drive to Anakao for two<br />

nights at Anakao Ocean Lodge.<br />

Days 11-13 Boat transfer to Ambola for three<br />

nights at Hotel Ambola.<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Fly to Antananarivo and then Paris.<br />

Fly from Paris to the UK. Arrive<br />

back in the UK in the morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

You can extend your trip by flying up to Anjajavy<br />

Private Nature Reserve. Stay for three nights and<br />

explore the forests on foot and the idyllic coastline<br />

by boat. Every afternoon, tea is taken in the ‘Oasis’,<br />

a beautiful garden where Coquerel’s sifakas and<br />

brown lemurs leap through the trees. With<br />

fabulous cuisine and unparalleled service, Anjajavy<br />

offers a luxurious end to a trip around Madagascar.<br />

Northern Madagascar<br />

Explorer<br />

The Northern Madagascar Explorer starts with<br />

a relaxing three days on the island of Ile Sainte-<br />

Marie. From here you fly to Amber Mountain to<br />

hike in the rainforest before driving to Ankarana<br />

National Park with its striking limestone tsingy.<br />

From Ankarana a beautiful drive through villages<br />

and cocoa and ylang ylang plantations takes you to<br />

the tiny port of Ankify. Leave your guide here and<br />

sail to the idyllic hideaway of Tsara Komba for<br />

three days’ relaxation on the beach.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-4<br />

Day 5<br />

Days 6-8<br />

Day 9<br />

Fly from the UK to Antananarivo via<br />

Paris overnight.<br />

Arrive in Madagascar. Fly to Ile<br />

Sainte Marie for three nights at<br />

Princesse Bora Lodge. Explore Ile<br />

Sainte Marie.<br />

Fly to Antananarivo for one night at<br />

Pavillion de L’Emyrne.<br />

Fly to Diego and meet your guide.<br />

Drive to Joffreville for three nights at<br />

The Litchi Tree. Wildlife walks in<br />

Amber Mountain with your guide.<br />

Guided drive to Ankarana for one<br />

night at Relais de Ankarana.<br />

Afternoon hike in Ankarana<br />

National Park.<br />

Days 10-12 Guided drive to Ankify. Boat transfer<br />

to Nosy Komba for three nights at<br />

Tsara Komba.<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Boat transfer to Nosy Be and fly to<br />

Antananarivo. Fly to Paris overnight.<br />

Fly to the UK. Arrive back in the UK<br />

in the morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

From Tsara Komba take a private yacht charter<br />

around the islands off Madagascar’s northwest<br />

coast. Sail to the remote Nosy Mitsio Archipelago<br />

or Radama Islands. You can spend each day as<br />

you choose; snorkelling, fishing, exploring<br />

deserted islands or visiting tiny fishing communities.<br />

At the end of each day, you can enjoy a seafood<br />

barbeque on a private beach of your choice,<br />

before enjoying a drink under the stars on the<br />

cool of your deck.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ● 01993 838 585 ● Madagascar 127


Seychelles<br />

Soft white sand squeaks underfoot as you<br />

walk along the beach. Ghost crabs scuttle<br />

to and fro and white fairy terns flutter<br />

overhead. There is no sound apart from the<br />

lapping ocean and the wind whispering in<br />

the coconut palms. Save your own, there isn’t<br />

another footprint to be seen. Pale blue skies<br />

drift overhead and azure waters stretch to<br />

the horizon: this can only be the Seychelles.<br />

This idyllic archipelago consists of 115<br />

granite and coral islands scattered just<br />

below the equator, 30 of which are<br />

inhabited, and 85 completely untouched.<br />

Here, thousands of sooty terns, white-tailed<br />

tropic birds, frigates and boobies nest,<br />

mottled eggs lying in soft sand. Turtles<br />

lumber ashore to lay their eggs before<br />

returning to the safety of the water, where<br />

vibrant coral reefs support thriving shoals<br />

of fish and visiting pelagic species. The<br />

beaches are superb, immortalised in countless<br />

films, and the Seychelles have always been<br />

a favourite for honeymooners. With new<br />

hotels ranging from simple guesthouses to<br />

luxury spa resorts these paradise islands are<br />

one of the world’s great destinations for<br />

‘barefoot luxury’.<br />

128


<strong>Audley</strong> in the Seychelles<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

2<br />

5<br />

6<br />

1<br />

3<br />

At first glance the Seychelles look like a<br />

number of similar islands. In fact, there are a<br />

number of differences between the islands<br />

and weather can have a dramatic effect on<br />

the sea and beaches. Some islands such as<br />

La Digue can only be explored by bicycle<br />

whilst others such as Praslin and Mahé are<br />

ideal for a day’s exploration in a car. Trade<br />

winds can dramatically alter east-facing<br />

beaches in Praslin and Mahé but the beaches<br />

of Denis, Desroches and Bird are the same<br />

year round. Our team have travelled around<br />

all of the islands so we understand the<br />

subtleties of each. We have discovered<br />

particularly good reefs for snorkelling, small<br />

guesthouses that are known to few, and can<br />

tell you the best place for a fresh lobster<br />

lunch. We can tailor a relaxing beach holiday,<br />

island hopping adventure or beach time<br />

after to a safari in East Africa.<br />

Accommodation<br />

1 Anse Source D’Argent<br />

The Seychelles’ most famous<br />

beach. Picture-perfect white<br />

sand and granite boulders.<br />

2 Vallée de Mai<br />

National Park<br />

A UNESCO World Heritage<br />

Site and the place to see coco<br />

de mer palms growing in<br />

magnificent profusion.<br />

4<br />

Fairy terns on Bird Island<br />

5 Praslin<br />

A granite island with lush<br />

rainforest, pretty coves and<br />

gently shelving beaches.<br />

7 Bird Island<br />

On the edge of the Seychelles<br />

Bank, Bird Island has 800,000<br />

pairs of breeding sooty terns<br />

from May to October.<br />

8 Denis Island<br />

A small idyllic flat coral island<br />

with giant tortoises, coconut<br />

plantations and sandy beaches.<br />

9<br />

Aride & Curieuse<br />

Islands<br />

There is a wide range of accommodation in<br />

the Seychelles, from small Creole<br />

guesthouses to deluxe five-star hotels with<br />

many room types and every type of facility.<br />

For those looking for a really exclusive<br />

getaway then there are a number of private<br />

islands. We have stayed in all types of<br />

accommodation and can make<br />

recommendations from personal experience.<br />

Because of the wide variety of properties on<br />

offer, we can tailor a trip to suit both style<br />

and budget. Whether you want to stay in a<br />

converted plantation house on La Digue, a<br />

luxury spa resort on Praslin or would like<br />

your own exclusive private island, we can<br />

find somewhere to suit you perfectly. Please<br />

refer to our website for in-depth details on<br />

all of the properties that we feature.<br />

Diving in the Seychelles<br />

6 La Digue<br />

A sleepy island where transport<br />

is by bicycle and ox cart. Iconic<br />

beaches with white sand and<br />

granite boulders.<br />

Nature reserve islands with<br />

thousands of seabirds and<br />

nesting turtles.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Seychelles, please<br />

see page 137.<br />

3 Iles aux Cocos<br />

Deserted small islets surrounded<br />

by reefs, excellent for snorkelling.<br />

4 Mahé<br />

A dramatic island of granite<br />

outcrops and mountains, fringed<br />

with beaches. The capital,<br />

Victoria, is on the east coast.<br />

Turtle hatching on North Island<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Seychelles<br />

specialists 01993 838 515<br />

Seychelles 129


One of the beaches at the Constance Lémuria Resort, Praslin<br />

Praslin<br />

Praslin is one of the larger islands, being 12<br />

kilometres long and five kilometres wide. It is<br />

exceptionally pretty with thick emerald vegetation,<br />

sugar white beaches and pale turquoise waters.<br />

Offshore, coral reefs surround the island and small<br />

atolls are visited by seabirds and nesting turtles.<br />

The pace of life on Praslin is gentle and unhurried.<br />

Small villages bask in the sun, rainbow-coloured<br />

shops sell banana bread and smoked sailfish<br />

sandwiches, and bulbuls babble in the trees.<br />

Whilst a sleepy island, there is plenty to see and<br />

do. In the centre of the island is the Vallée de<br />

Mai National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage<br />

Site and the place to see a profusion of coco de<br />

mer palms. Diving and snorkelling are lovely, with<br />

reefs surrounded by haloes of butterflyfish,<br />

sweetlips, damselfish and more. You might want<br />

to take a boat trip to the nature reserve islands<br />

of Cousin, Aride or Curieuse with their thousands<br />

of seabirds, or simply snooze on a beach with a<br />

picnic on the sand beside you.<br />

A room at Lemuria Resort<br />

CONSTANCE LÉMURIA RESORT,<br />

ANSE KERLAN, PRASLIN<br />

Constance Lémuria Resort is a five-star resort<br />

situated above a cluster of beaches at Anse<br />

Kerlan. The resort has been carefully designed and<br />

has 105 suites and villas, accessed by palm-lined<br />

paths. Each suite has a sense of space and is<br />

fitted with every facility including air-conditioning,<br />

television, CD players, and bath and shower in<br />

the en suite bathrooms. Facilities in the hotel<br />

include three swimming pools, floodlit tennis<br />

courts, a spa, an 18-hole golf course, sailing and<br />

diving plus several excellent restaurants.<br />

Snorkelling off Praslin<br />

130<br />

Walking in the Vallée de Mai National Park


St Pierre Island off the coast of Praslin<br />

Evening meal at the Paradise Sun<br />

Local fruit stall<br />

Paradise Sun, Coco D’Or Beach<br />

L’Archipel<br />

L’ARCHIPEL, ANSE<br />

GOUVERNMENT, PRASLIN<br />

L’Archipel is set on a palm-studded hillside<br />

above a private stretch of beach in northern<br />

Praslin. Built in colonial style, cool cream and<br />

green villas contain 30 guest rooms and suites<br />

ranging in size from large to downright<br />

enormous. All are comfortable, with king-size<br />

beds, polished tile floors, antique tables, elegant<br />

writing desks and orchids in glass vases. Breakfast<br />

is served on large private verandas with ocean<br />

views and birds hopping about in search of<br />

croissant crumbs. There is plenty to do at<br />

L’Archipel including snorkelling, diving, fishing<br />

and trips to nearby islands.<br />

LA RESERVE, ANSE PETIT COUR,<br />

PRASLIN<br />

La Reserve is set above a private beach with<br />

white sand, granite boulders and views of<br />

Curieuse Island. Snorkelling directly off the beach<br />

is particularly good with a coral reef within easy<br />

swimming distance. The hotel itself is pretty, with<br />

a cluster of two-storey Creole style buildings,<br />

each housing four rooms. Rooms are comfortable<br />

with four-poster beds, air-conditioning and<br />

spacious en suite bathrooms. Outside, the<br />

sea-facing balcony or terrace is a lovely place to<br />

relax. The restaurant at La Reserve is built on a<br />

jetty and catches the sea breeze. There is plenty<br />

to do at the hotel, from swimming in the large<br />

pool, cycling, snorkelling or enjoying boat trips<br />

to Curieuse Island.<br />

The pool at La Reserve<br />

Superior Room, Paradise Sun<br />

PARADISE SUN, ANSE VOLBERT,<br />

PRASLIN<br />

Paradise Sun is a large hotel located at the end of<br />

Anse Volbert. There are 80 rooms in two-storey<br />

bungalows arranged in crescents around the<br />

lawns. The hotel is particularly well suited to<br />

those wanting to do lots of activities. There is a<br />

swimming pool, volleyball court and watersports<br />

centre from which you can arrange snorkel trips<br />

to the island of St Pierre and dive trips further<br />

afield. There are two restaurants and each<br />

evening a small band plays, creating a sociable<br />

and fun atmosphere. The hotel is excellent for<br />

families as swimming is in a sheltered bay and<br />

there are plenty of activities for children.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/seychelles ● 01993 838 515 ● Seychelles 131


Banyan Tree, Intendance Bay<br />

Mahé<br />

Mahé is the largest island in the Seychelles and<br />

home to the capital, Victoria. 27 kilometres long<br />

and eight wide, it is a dramatic island of granite<br />

outcrops and mountains rising from the sea, the<br />

tallest of which – Morne Seychellois – is often<br />

topped by a dusting of mist. Mahé is surrounded<br />

by coral reefs which protect the beaches and<br />

ensure tranquil seas and azure lagoons. The<br />

coastline is crinkled with picturesque coves,<br />

stretches of sugar-white sand and beaches crisscrossed<br />

with bird footprints and littered with<br />

shells. Coconut palms stretch over sculpted<br />

granite boulders and fairy terns can be heard<br />

babbling in the trees.<br />

There is much to see and do on Mahé. If you<br />

ever tire of the beaches there are walking trails<br />

in the mountains and along the coast. Victoria is<br />

fun for a morning, with its vibrant markets, leafy<br />

streets and colourful harbour. Offshore, there are<br />

coral reefs for snorkelling and little islands to<br />

explore. After a day of activities there are tiny<br />

Creole restaurants waiting for you with their<br />

tables on the sand where you can enjoy a cold<br />

drink and a spicy samosa. This is the perfect<br />

island for a relaxing stay.<br />

132<br />

View from a villa at Banyan Tree<br />

BANYAN TREE SEYCHELLES,<br />

ANSE INTENDANCE, MAHÉ<br />

Situated above the beautiful beach at Anse<br />

Intendance, Banyan Tree Seychelles is stylish and<br />

luxurious. The 60 villas are dotted around the<br />

hillside and beach, ranging from hillside pool villas<br />

to presidential villas and varying in size from large<br />

to enormous. Inside, you will want for nothing<br />

with king-size beds, big sofas, fresh flowers and<br />

sunken baths in the en suite bathrooms.<br />

Outdoors, each villa has a private pavilion with<br />

sunbeds, swimming pool and (in some villas) a<br />

Jacuzzi. The hotel prides itself on its food, with<br />

three restaurants serving a variety of Creole,<br />

Asian, Thai and European cuisine. With a refined<br />

and luxurious spa and plenty of activities, Banyan<br />

Tree Seychelles provides everything you need<br />

for a luxurious stay.<br />

Banyan Tree<br />

Suite at the Banyan Tree


North Beach, Constance Ephelia Resort<br />

Frangipani flowers A villa at the Four Seasons Resort Victoria Market, Mahe<br />

CONSTANCE EPHELIA RESORT,<br />

PORT LAUNAY, MAHÉ<br />

Constance Ephelia Resort is set in 120 hectares<br />

of lush vegetation sloping gently down to two<br />

crescent shaped beaches. It overlooks the marine<br />

park of Port Launay, with its turquoise waters<br />

and coral reefs. The resort has 267 suites, but<br />

because they are spread across such a large area<br />

it feels like a hotel half its size. All the suites are<br />

spacious with a large bedroom, sitting area and<br />

en suite bathroom. They have every facility<br />

including air-conditioning, television, CD and DVD<br />

players, iPod connection, WIFI and even a pillow<br />

menu! Nearby, an extensive spa village has 18<br />

treatment rooms and a wide variety of relaxing<br />

treatments. The resort has superb facilities<br />

including five restaurants, four swimming pools,<br />

and a well-equipped watersports centre.<br />

Constance Ephelia Resort<br />

The Four Seasons Resort<br />

FOUR SEASONS RESORT<br />

SEYCHELLES, PETITE ANSE, MAHÉ<br />

This resort has 67 villas perched in lush<br />

vegetation above the bay of Petite Anse,<br />

regarded by locals as one of the most beautiful<br />

bays on Mahé. The villas are built in a traditional<br />

Creole design featuring natural timber and brick.<br />

Some are set in the gardens whilst others are<br />

perched on the rocks and have panoramic sea<br />

views. As you would expect from a Four Seasons<br />

resort, the villas have every comfort you could<br />

wish for including a private plunge pool on the<br />

veranda. Facilities at the resort are extensive and<br />

include two restaurants, a swimming pool,<br />

watersports centre, PADI dive centre and<br />

beautiful spa situated right at the top of the hill.<br />

HILTON SEYCHELLES<br />

NORTHOLME RESORT AND SPA,<br />

BEAU VALLON, MAHÉ<br />

This hotel is located on the popular Beau<br />

Vallon Bay in northern Mahé. It has a friendly<br />

atmosphere and a feeling of understated luxury.<br />

The villas are beautiful with all the facilities you<br />

need and a large balcony with sea view. Those<br />

looking for relaxation will enjoy the infinity pool<br />

and the spa, which offers a comprehensive range<br />

of treatments. For the more active, diving,<br />

snorkelling and other watersports are available<br />

from the nearby Scuba Centre. At the end of the<br />

day enjoy an al fresco drink at the Ocean View<br />

Bar, positioned to make the most of the sunset.<br />

The Hilton Notholme Resort & Spa<br />

www.audleytravel.com/seychelles ● 01993 838 515 ● Seychelles 133


Desroches Island<br />

Denis Island<br />

Denis Island is a flat coral island about two<br />

kilometres in diameter, 95 kilometres northeast<br />

of Mahé and surrounded by white sandy beaches.<br />

Protected by offshore reefs, the water is perfect<br />

for swimming and snorkelling. On the northern<br />

tip of the island there are 25 bungalows set under<br />

casuarina trees on the edge of the beach. Each<br />

one is spacious and elegant with high-beamed<br />

ceilings, four-poster beds, air-conditioning and en<br />

suite bathrooms. There is plenty to do on Denis<br />

Island, with criss-crossed pathways accessing all<br />

the beaches. Due to the island’s situation right on<br />

the edge of the Seychelles Bank, the coral walls<br />

here plummet to 2,000 metres, resulting in a wide<br />

choice of exciting dive sites. Fishing, windsurfing,<br />

sailing and kayaking are readily available, while<br />

those looking for spots to snooze on the warm<br />

sand under a palm tree will be spoilt for choice.<br />

The lounge at Denis Island<br />

Giant tortoise on Desroches<br />

Desroches Island<br />

Desroches is the ultimate get-away-from-it-all<br />

island, with palm trees, white sand and turquoise<br />

waters. There are no cars here, and on arrival<br />

your bike is waiting outside your room, complete<br />

with water bottle and a basket for your swimming<br />

things. You can cycle through the coconut<br />

plantations to deserted beaches and pretty<br />

snorkelling spots. Desroches Island Resort offers<br />

supreme comfort in this idyllic setting. There are<br />

20 suites, set just back from the beach in the<br />

shady gardens. Each room is beautiful, with<br />

expanses of polished wooden floors, cream<br />

linens and large paintings. They have every facility<br />

including king-size beds, air-conditioning, satellite<br />

television and en suite bathroom with<br />

freestanding bath and outdoor shower. In the<br />

centre of the resort, the pool, bar and restaurant<br />

all overlook the sea. There are also a number of<br />

four-bedroom villas on the opposite side of the<br />

island which are perfect for families or groups.<br />

Whilst many come to Desroches to relax,<br />

plenty of activities are available if you’d like to<br />

explore. There is a dive centre, kayaks and<br />

windsurfers and a large boat which can be<br />

chartered on a daily basis.<br />

The pool at Denis Island<br />

134<br />

A chalet at Desroches


Fairy terns<br />

Viewpoint on North Island<br />

View from Villa 11, North Island<br />

Turtles hatching on North Island<br />

Dusk at North Island<br />

North Island<br />

Located 30 kilometres northwest of Mahé,<br />

North is one of the most exclusive private islands<br />

in the Seychelles. Just over two kilometres long<br />

and one across, it has small granite hills with<br />

fabulous viewpoints, hundreds of coconut palms<br />

and takamaka trees, and giant tortoises<br />

wandering about. There are four gently sloping<br />

white beaches where both green and hawksbill<br />

turtles nest.<br />

The pool at North Island<br />

North Island is a leading example of responsible<br />

tourism. A research centre, that guests are<br />

welcome to visit, is monitoring the turtles and<br />

nurturing rare indigenous seedlings with the aim<br />

of restoring the island’s habitats. Other activities<br />

include diving, snorkelling, sailing, private picnics<br />

on deserted beaches and relaxing treatments<br />

in the spa.<br />

Bird Island<br />

On the edge of the Seychelles Bank, 105<br />

kilometres northwest of Mahé, Bird Island lives<br />

up to its name. During the southeast trade wind<br />

(May to October), around 800,000 pairs of<br />

sooty terns nest on the northern tip of the island.<br />

Large numbers of lesser and brown noddies<br />

wander around, fairy terns are in abundance and<br />

many waders can be seen on the sand spits.<br />

Hawksbill turtles come to the beaches to lay eggs<br />

and, offshore, coral reefs are rich in marine life.<br />

Bird Island Lodge is set on the southern side of<br />

the island, a friendly and relaxed place with 24<br />

simple bungalows overlooking the beach. It is a<br />

simpler property than on many of the private<br />

islands but rooms have spacious interiors, with<br />

four-poster beds, ceiling fans, separate living areas<br />

and en suite bathrooms. There are plenty of<br />

activities on Bird Island including walking,<br />

snorkelling, diving and boat trips.<br />

Situated on the eastern beach of the island are<br />

eleven villas that are arguably the most beautiful<br />

in the Indian Ocean. Palm frond roofs stretch low<br />

over stone and wood cottages with rosewood<br />

floors, driftwood designs and fabrics in cream and<br />

earth colours. Bathrooms have sunken baths and<br />

both indoor and outdoor showers. Outside there<br />

is a large deck and private plunge pool.<br />

Diving off North Island<br />

A room at Bird Island<br />

www.audleytravel.com/seychelles ● 01993 838 515 ● Seychelles 135


Arriving at La Digue by helicopter<br />

La Digue<br />

La Digue is a sleepy island where life is relaxed<br />

and nobody is ever in a hurry. Creole houses<br />

nestle under papaya trees, with flowers<br />

overflowing from window boxes and plant pots.<br />

Fishermen dawdle along the road with fish<br />

hanging from sticks, and ox carts and bicycles are<br />

the principle forms of transport. Whilst small –<br />

just five kilometres long and three kilometres<br />

wide – La Digue is not short of exquisite beaches.<br />

The coast is lined with pretty coves, the soft<br />

white sand interspersed with granite boulders that<br />

turn pink at sunset. The beaches are flanked by<br />

coconut palms, where fairy terns and white-tailed<br />

tropicbirds are a common sight. Offshore, La<br />

Digue is surrounded by coral reefs. Here,<br />

snorkelling will reveal corals, sponges, and all<br />

manner of marine life from emperor angelfish<br />

to starfish and turtles.<br />

Although La Digue is ideal for relaxation there<br />

are gentle activities to enjoy as well. Take a bike<br />

ride along the coast, visit the coconut plantation<br />

and ramble to viewpoints and deserted beaches.<br />

Hundreds of black paradise flycatchers are<br />

protected in La Digue Vev Reserve, a lovely spot<br />

to while away a few hours wandering gentle trails<br />

through takamaka and badamier trees. Finally,<br />

you can take boat trips to the islands of Iles aux<br />

Cocos, Marianne and Les Soeurs, all of which<br />

are even quieter than La Digue.<br />

136<br />

Fleur de Lys<br />

LA DOMAINE DE L’ORANGERAIE,<br />

LA DIGUE<br />

La Domaine De L’Orangeraie has a cluster of<br />

beautiful villas set in tropical gardens. Although the<br />

property does not overlook the sea, it is only a<br />

five minute stroll or a two minute bike ride away.<br />

The villas are very comfortable and contemporary<br />

in design, each with a bedroom, living room,<br />

bathroom and leafy terrace where meals can be<br />

enjoyed. Shared facilities include a pool and<br />

restaurant which serves excellent Creole cuisine.<br />

Le Domaine De L’Orangeraie<br />

FLEUR DE LYS, LA DIGUE<br />

Fleur de Lys is set back from the beach along a<br />

leafy road with tall takamaka trees. It is a two<br />

minute cycle ride from the centre of the village<br />

and a five minute ride from the beach. This tiny<br />

property has only eight pretty and spotless chalets<br />

set in a little garden. Each has a small living room<br />

with well equipped kitchenette, as well as a<br />

bedroom and en suite bathroom. The chalets can<br />

be booked on a self-catering or bed and breakfast<br />

basis according to your preferences. This is an<br />

excellent value property and is ideal for those<br />

who enjoy some independence and want to<br />

explore at their own pace.<br />

Fisherman on a bicycle


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Praslin<br />

La Digue<br />

Masai Mara<br />

KENYA<br />

Nairobi<br />

To Mahé<br />

Please call one of our Seychelles specialists to<br />

start planning your itinerary.<br />

Victoria<br />

From<br />

Nairobi<br />

Victoria<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 515<br />

Getting around<br />

MAHÉ<br />

TANZANIA<br />

Constance<br />

Ephelia Resort<br />

MAHÉ<br />

Flying to the Seychelles for an island hopping trip<br />

or relaxation after a safari is easy. Air Seychelles<br />

operates flights from London and there are daily<br />

flights from Johannesburg and Nairobi which<br />

cover Southern and Eastern Africa respectively.<br />

Once on the islands, you can base yourself at one<br />

hotel or you may wish to island hop, staying on<br />

two or three islands. <strong>Travel</strong> between the islands is<br />

simple, as there is an excellent network of flights<br />

and small ferries. We can tailor an itinerary with<br />

any combination of islands and seamlessly transfer<br />

you from one to the other.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Situated just south of the equator, the Seychelles<br />

have a warm tropical climate, with day time<br />

temperatures ranging from 24C to 31C all year<br />

round. From May to October, a southeast trade<br />

wind can bring marginally cooler weather and<br />

fresh breezes. At this time of year beaches on<br />

some islands can be affected by seaweed –<br />

speak to our specialists who know all these<br />

beaches and which ones to avoid. The northwest<br />

monsoon wind blows from November to March,<br />

typically raising temperatures and humidity.<br />

December and January are the wettest months,<br />

but the rain falls in short sharp bursts before the<br />

sun comes out again. With such consistently<br />

warm tropical weather, the Seychelles are a<br />

good year-round destination.<br />

Time difference: GMT+4 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 11 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Seychelles on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

La Digue & Praslin<br />

Island Hop<br />

This island hopping trip explores two of the larger<br />

islands in the Seychelles; La Digue and Praslin.<br />

La Digue is a very sleepy place with a relaxed pace<br />

of life. Staying in a small guesthouse, you can set<br />

out each day on your bicycle, picnic and swimsuit<br />

in the basket for lazy days on the beach. A short<br />

ferry ride takes you to Praslin where you can stay<br />

in a boutique property on a hillside with stunning<br />

sea views. Hire a car for the day to explore the<br />

island, or take a snorkel trip to a nearby reef.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-5<br />

Days 6-12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Fly from the UK to Mahé overnight.<br />

Fly from Mahé to Praslin. Ferry<br />

transfer to La Digue for four nights at<br />

Fleur de Lys. Explore La Digue by<br />

bicycle and ox-cart. Enjoy swimming<br />

and snorkelling.<br />

Ferry transfer to Praslin for seven<br />

nights at L’Archipel. Explore Praslin<br />

by car and relax at the beach or<br />

beside the pool.<br />

Road transfer to Praslin Airport. Fly<br />

to Mahé and then the UK overnight.<br />

Arrive back in the UK in the morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

The Seychelles combines well with a safari in<br />

Kenya or Tanzania. Spend a week or more in the<br />

large game reserves in either of these countries<br />

before flying to the islands. A night’s stay in Nairobi<br />

is required in between, and we minimise your time<br />

here, flying you into the city at dusk and out to<br />

Mahé at dawn. Due to good flight connections,<br />

you can be on safari in the Mara in the afternoon<br />

and enjoying a large seafood lunch on the beach<br />

in the Seychelles the next day.<br />

Mara & Mahé Explorer<br />

This itinerary gives you the very best of both<br />

worlds; a safari in Africa’s most famous game<br />

reserve followed by time on an idyllic beach in the<br />

Seychelles. Stay in the heart of the Masai Mara and<br />

enjoy the prolific game including lion, leopard,<br />

elephant, buffalo, giraffe and lots more. Moving<br />

from the Mara to Mahé, the pace of life slows<br />

considerably and you can’t avoid relaxing into<br />

island life. Stay above two crescent-shaped coves<br />

on Mahé and enjoy swimming, snorkelling,<br />

luxurious spa treatments and of course, time<br />

snoozing on the beach.<br />

Day 1<br />

Days 2-5<br />

Day 6<br />

Days 7-13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Fly from the UK to Nairobi overnight.<br />

Arrive in Nairobi. Fly to the Masai<br />

Mara for four nights at Little<br />

Governor’s Camp. Explore the Mara<br />

on game drives and walking safaris.<br />

Fly to Nairobi for one night.<br />

Fly to Mahé for seven nights at the<br />

Constance Ephelia Resort. Explore<br />

Mahé by car and relax at the beach<br />

or beside the pool.<br />

Fly from Mahé to the UK overnight.<br />

Arrive back in the UK in the morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

End your trip in the Seychelles with a stay on a<br />

private island. Fly from Mahé to Denis Island for a<br />

Robinson Crusoe style hideaway. Take time to<br />

ramble around the island, visiting the coconut<br />

plantations, giant tortoises and deserted beaches.<br />

Sip a glass of wine on your villa terrace and admire<br />

the sea views, enjoy seafood barbecues on the<br />

beach, and fall asleep to the sound of the waves<br />

and wind in the palm trees.<br />

Arriving on Bird Island<br />

www.audleytravel.com/seychelles ● 01993 838 515 ● Seychelles 137


Mauritius<br />

Located 20 degrees south of the equator,<br />

Mauritius is a warm, welcoming and<br />

tropical island. Many visitors are surprised<br />

by the diversity of the island’s scenery, as<br />

aside from the beautiful coastline there are<br />

soaring mountains, subtropical forest and<br />

plains full of sugar cane. The island is<br />

surrounded by coral reefs offering some of<br />

the richest diving spots in the Indian Ocean.<br />

Tiny fishing villages in hidden coves<br />

wait to be discovered, and restaurants peer<br />

out over azure coastlines. The diverse<br />

cultures that have settled here have had a<br />

strong influence on the cuisine, which is of<br />

a high standard. Mauritius is a wonderful<br />

place to visit, especially when the weather<br />

in the northern hemisphere is cold and wet.<br />

The island has a superb array of hotels<br />

ranging from small mountain hideaways<br />

to coastal boutique hotels and luxurious<br />

resorts. We have found a number of<br />

beautiful properties ranging from<br />

affordable guesthouses to sumptuous villas.<br />

All have a wide variety of activities from<br />

mountain biking to snorkelling and many<br />

have spas – perfect for pampering and<br />

some serious relaxation.<br />

138


<strong>Audley</strong> in Mauritius<br />

The botanical garden of<br />

Pamplemousses<br />

4<br />

3<br />

The majority of companies featuring<br />

Mauritius will do so as a ‘fly and flop’ beach<br />

destination. However, knowing the island<br />

from personal experience as we do, our<br />

recommendations go beyond merely<br />

spending two weeks on the sunlounger.<br />

There are many undiscovered corners of<br />

this island; pretty fishing villages, sugar cane<br />

plantations with private houses on them,<br />

and mountains where you can hike amongst<br />

stunning scenery. We often suggest<br />

combining two hotels, one in the mountains<br />

and the other on the coast. This allows you<br />

time to enjoy the diversity of scenery and<br />

means that you get a greater understanding<br />

of the Mauritian culture. We choose hotels<br />

from our personal experience and tailor<br />

unique trips to suit individual tastes. As there<br />

are good flight connections to both East and<br />

Southern Africa Mauritius makes an ideal<br />

beach add-on to a safari.<br />

Accommodation<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3 Île aux Cerfs<br />

A beautiful little island off the<br />

east coast that is ideally<br />

explored by catamaran.<br />

4 Grand Baie<br />

A pretty Mauritian village with<br />

some excellent restaurants<br />

and boutiques.<br />

Port Louis, Mauritius<br />

There are two main types of hotel on<br />

Mauritius – small mountain hideaways and<br />

luxurious coastal resorts. In the mountains<br />

we have hand picked lodges tucked away in<br />

the tropical vegetation and close to walking<br />

and cycle trails. The focus here is on good<br />

food, fresh mountain air and relaxation –<br />

ideal for recovering after an international<br />

flight. On the coast there are numerous large<br />

resorts. We have carefully picked just a<br />

handful, those we believe to be the best that<br />

Mauritius has to offer. Our selected hotels<br />

are tastefully blended into the sub-tropical<br />

surroundings in quiet locations, with good<br />

food and impeccable service. Our specialists,<br />

who know Mauritius well, will speak to you<br />

about your preferences and will suggest<br />

hotels to suit you perfectly. We have<br />

extensive details about all the hotels and<br />

guest houses we recommend on our<br />

website: www.audleytravel.com/mauritius<br />

Find out more<br />

A room on stilts at Le Prince Maurice<br />

1 Le Morne Peninsula<br />

A beautiful peninsula in<br />

southwest Mauritius with lovely<br />

fishing villages in pretty coves.<br />

2 Chamarel Mountains<br />

With superb hiking and birding,<br />

these can be visited on a day<br />

trip or while staying at the<br />

Lakaz Chamarel villas.<br />

Sailing on the Magic Sails catamaran<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Mauritius, please<br />

see page 142.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Mauritius<br />

specialists 01993 838 520<br />

Mauritius 139


The beach at Maradiva Villas<br />

Chamarel Mountains<br />

In southwest Mauritius, the Chamarel Mountains<br />

are protected by the Black River Gorges National<br />

Park, and are one of the most pristine and<br />

undeveloped tracts of land on the island.<br />

Undulating subtropical forest, waterfalls and<br />

streams make this a world apart from the<br />

better-known coastline. Hiking and cycling can<br />

be enjoyed in the national park and traditional<br />

Mauritian restaurants nestle in the hills, with<br />

sublime views. Whilst radically different from the<br />

coast, this area is in fact only fifteen minutes from<br />

some of the most undeveloped beaches in<br />

Mauritius. You can therefore spend a morning<br />

hiking followed by an afternoon swim in the<br />

Indian Ocean.<br />

Lakaz Chamarel<br />

140<br />

Le Morne Mountain in southwest Mauritius<br />

LAKAZ CHAMAREL,<br />

CHAMAREL MOUNTAINS<br />

This luxurious boutique hotel has a peaceful<br />

setting in the Chamarel Mountains. It has a<br />

recently installed spa, two swimming pools and a<br />

stylish lounge area where you can sit and while<br />

away the hours with a book. The luxurious villas<br />

are thoughtfully decorated with antique French<br />

furniture and each has a private plunge pool<br />

surrounded by sub-tropical vegetation. As you sit<br />

and relax in your garden, only the sound of the<br />

birds will disturb you. Manager Frederique serves<br />

excellent food in the main lodge, and is on hand<br />

to help you make the most of your stay.<br />

Tamarin Bay<br />

On the sheltered west coast of Mauritius,<br />

Tamarin Bay sits in one of the island’s prettiest<br />

locations. The turquoise waters of the bay lap at<br />

the vast, powdery white beach, with the verdant<br />

mountains of the Chamarel Range as backdrop.<br />

As the bay is on the southwest side of the island,<br />

it is in lee of the southeast trade winds, and<br />

therefore maintains a lovely climate throughout<br />

the year. Both the mountains and the nearby Le<br />

Morne Peninsula are worth a day’s exploration<br />

either by car or taxi.<br />

MARADIVA VILLAS, TAMARIN BAY<br />

Maradiva Villas sits in large tropical gardens above<br />

one of the most iconic beaches on the island.<br />

No detail has been overlooked, with interiors<br />

inspired by French colonial, Indian and Arabic<br />

design. The 65 individual villas are sumptuous,<br />

and superbly laid-out with extensive outdoor<br />

seating areas around a lovely plunge pool.<br />

Every possible facility is provided, from walk-in<br />

wardrobes to flat-screen plasma televisions and<br />

24 hour butler service. Choose from relaxed<br />

beachside dining or refined restaurants serving<br />

Pan-Asian and Indian cuisine. There are extensive<br />

sporting facilities and the Indian spa is of world<br />

class quality.


The beach at Constance Belle Mare Plage A junior suite at Le Prince Maurice Dinner at Constance Belle Mare Plage<br />

Le Prince Maurice<br />

East Coast Mauritius<br />

Mauritius’ east coast has long white sandy beaches<br />

forming perfect half-moon coves. Sheltered<br />

lagoons and accessible reefs make for superb<br />

snorkelling and diving. Inland, you find a melting<br />

pot of Hindu and French culture; traditional<br />

villages with leafy squares, small markets, cafés<br />

and shops. The hotels in this region employ the<br />

majority of their staff from the nearby villages<br />

and as a result feel very Mauritian in character.<br />

The service is excellent and by chatting to the<br />

hotel employees you can learn about the area<br />

as well as gaining an understanding of everyday<br />

life on the island.<br />

Suite on stilts at Le Prince Maurice<br />

Junior Suite at the Belle Mare Plage<br />

LE PRINCE MAURICE, EAST<br />

COAST MAURITIUS<br />

This wonderfully designed property has all the<br />

luxuries of a five-star hotel and presents them<br />

tastefully, with an air of understated elegance.<br />

It stands in 60 acres of private land with a calm<br />

lagoon, well tended gardens and an idyllic sandy<br />

beach. There are 89 suites, housed either in<br />

thatched villas around the garden or stilted villas<br />

above the lagoon. The suites have a classy, French<br />

feel which works beautifully. They are well<br />

equipped with king-size beds, soft cream chairs,<br />

television and DVD systems and large en suite<br />

marble bathrooms. Each suite has its own private<br />

balcony or terrace. The facilities at the hotel<br />

include a pool, library, extensive boathouse, wide<br />

variety of watersports and a nearby golf course.<br />

A luxurious spa and a floating restaurant<br />

complete the list of highlights.<br />

CONSTANCE BELLE MARE PLAGE,<br />

EAST COAST MAURITIUS<br />

The Constance Belle Mare Plage is spread out<br />

amongst leafy subtropical vegetation, and is<br />

perfect for families and couples looking for<br />

extensive facilities and relaxation in the vicinity<br />

of gorgeous beaches. There are 256 rooms set<br />

in two-storey houses around lush tropical<br />

gardens, each with their own private balcony or<br />

terrace looking out onto the gardens or beach.<br />

The hotel has excellent sporting facilities<br />

including two championship golf courses, five<br />

swimming pools, floodlit tennis courts and a<br />

profusion of watersports including water skiing,<br />

windsurfing, laser sailing and snorkelling. After a<br />

day of activities, choose from a range of<br />

excellent restaurants serving Creole and<br />

international cuisine.<br />

The links course at Belle Mare Plage<br />

www.audleytravel.com/mauritius ● 01993 838 520 ● Mauritius 141


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itinerary shown is designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and is a route that<br />

works particularly well. We can use this as a basis<br />

to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

The Residence<br />

The Residence Hotel<br />

Please call one of our Mauritius specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 520<br />

Getting around<br />

Lakaz<br />

Chamarel<br />

Mauritius<br />

Airport<br />

The beach at The Residence<br />

THE RESIDENCE, EAST COAST<br />

MAURITIUS<br />

Blending tastefully finished colonial architecture<br />

with breezy, open spaces, The Residence has<br />

a lovely airy feel to it. Facing one of the most<br />

sublime east coast beaches, and with an<br />

extensive outdoor pool area, this hotel is a<br />

pleasure to wander around. Marble floors lead<br />

to the hotel’s 163 rooms and suites. All are<br />

luxurious and well equipped with king-size<br />

beds, television, telephone, air-conditioning and<br />

en suite bathrooms with bathtub and shower.<br />

Shuttered windows and French doors lead out<br />

onto large balconies. There is a lovely spa<br />

offering relaxing and soothing treatments, and<br />

tennis courts and windsurfing, waterskiing and<br />

sailing are available for the more active.<br />

Mauritius is easy to access both from the UK and<br />

Africa. There are direct flights from Heathrow to<br />

Mauritius several times a week, usually overnight.<br />

Several flights a day depart from Johannesburg to<br />

Mauritius making it simple to combine a safari in<br />

Africa with time on the island. <strong>Travel</strong> around the<br />

island’s excellent network of roads is easy and we<br />

will transfer you from one hotel to another in a<br />

private car. If you would like to explore the island<br />

yourself, car hire can be arranged.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Mauritius has a warm subtropical climate. In the<br />

dry season from May to October, temperatures<br />

range from 20C to 25C, and cooling trade<br />

winds from the southeast keep down the<br />

humidity levels. From November to April the<br />

climate becomes hotter and more humid and<br />

temperatures range from around 25C to 30C.<br />

The rains fall at this time, with the peak rains –<br />

and sometimes cyclones – occurring in<br />

January and February.<br />

Time difference: GMT+4 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 12 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Mauritius on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Mountains and Coasts<br />

This itinerary allows you to explore the best of<br />

both worlds in Mauritius. The first few days are<br />

spent in the mountains, an ideal antidote to an<br />

international flight. Stay in a villa with your own<br />

private pool and spend days hiking, cycling, reading<br />

or enjoying a pampering treatment in the spa.<br />

From the mountains, drop down to the coast and<br />

stay at one of Mauritius’ most elegant hotels, The<br />

Residence. On an idyllic crescent of white sand,<br />

this hotel has every facility necessary to make your<br />

stay supremely comfortable.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2-4<br />

Day 5-11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Fly from the UK to Mauritius.<br />

Arrive in Mauritius. Private car<br />

transfer to Lakaz Chamarel for<br />

three nights. Walk in the<br />

Chamarel Mountains.<br />

Private road transfer to The<br />

Residence for seven nights. Swim,<br />

snorkel and relax beside the pool<br />

or on the beach.<br />

Private car transfer to the airport.<br />

Fly from Mauritius to London<br />

overnight.<br />

Arrive back in the UK in the<br />

early morning.<br />

Stay longer<br />

It is easy to combine a safari with a trip to<br />

Mauritius. After a week or more in Namibia,<br />

Botswana, South Africa or Zambia, nothing beats<br />

a stay on this beautiful island. With daily flights<br />

departing from Johannesburg, you can choose the<br />

length of time you’d like on safari before heading<br />

to the beach. Speak to our specialists who can<br />

tailor a trip to suit you.<br />

Ocean Front Room at The Residence<br />

142<br />

Walking in the Chamarel Mountains<br />

Breakfast at The Residence


Useful information<br />

Snorkelling in Lake Malawi Cheetah in the Vumbura Reserve, Botswana Viewing rhino in Meru National Park<br />

Group tours<br />

We offer a comprehensive programme of<br />

guided small group tours, typically no more than<br />

16 travellers. Not only does this make for a<br />

sociable group but it also enables us to use<br />

smaller and more characterful accommodation<br />

and venture away from the large tour groups.<br />

We offer regular tours to countries across Africa<br />

which have become very popular and are an<br />

alternative to a tailor-made itinerary.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/groups<br />

We can also arrange private tours, whether this<br />

is for a group of friends, those with a special<br />

interest or a fundraising trip for charity. For larger<br />

groups we may be able to offer discounts or a<br />

free place to the organiser. See our website or<br />

call us to discuss your plans.<br />

Flights<br />

A number of airlines fly directly to Africa from<br />

London Heathrow. We choose from these<br />

airlines based on current airfares and taxes,<br />

your preference for travel and your itinerary.<br />

Connecting flights from regional UK airports can<br />

also be arranged so please tell us if you’d like to<br />

fly from your local airport as this may influence<br />

the airline we choose.<br />

East Africa is easily reached with direct flights<br />

going to Nairobi in Kenya, Dar es Salaam in<br />

Tanzania and Entebbe in Uganda. Rwanda is<br />

easily reached through good regional connections<br />

in Nairobi. Flying to East Africa usually takes<br />

around nine hours and most flights are overnight.<br />

As there is little time change, whilst tired after<br />

an international flight you will not have to<br />

grapple with jet-lag.<br />

In Southern Africa there is a direct flight into<br />

Lusaka in Zambia and numerous flights into South<br />

Africa’s Johannesburg and Cape Town airports.<br />

Namibia can be reached either via Frankfurt or<br />

through Johannesburg. Both Botswana and Malawi<br />

are usually reached by connecting through<br />

Johannesburg. Flying direct into Southern Africa<br />

usually takes around eleven hours. Nearly all<br />

flights are overnight and there is little time<br />

difference meaning jet-lag is not a problem.<br />

The Indian Ocean islands have good flight<br />

connections with direct flights to both the<br />

Seychelles and Mauritius. There are excellent<br />

connections through Paris to Antananarivo<br />

in Madagascar. Many Indian Ocean flights<br />

are overnight.<br />

However you chose to reach your African<br />

destination there are usually a number of<br />

options. Our specialists will discuss all the<br />

options with you and advise you of the best<br />

route to take for your trip.<br />

Terms & Conditions and<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> Insurance<br />

Your booking is subject to the Terms and<br />

Conditions of <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong>, which we will<br />

include with your personalised itinerary and can<br />

also be found on our website. It is vital that you<br />

have adequate travel insurance and we are able<br />

to suggest a number of policies either for the<br />

duration of your trip or on an annual basis.<br />

AITO Membership<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> is a member of the Association<br />

of Independent Tour Operators. The<br />

Association represents Britain’s leading<br />

independent tour operators and encourages high<br />

standards of quality and service. <strong>Audley</strong> abides<br />

by the Association’s Code of Conduct and<br />

adheres to the AITO Quality Charter which can<br />

be viewed on www.aito.com.<br />

Photography in this brochure<br />

We would like to thank the following<br />

photographers for the images used in this<br />

brochure:<br />

Ariadne Van Zandbergen, Afripics, Alamy, Istock,<br />

Dana Allen, David Rogers, David Fettes, Daryl<br />

Balfour, Gary Cook, Javed Jafferji, Jamie Marshall,<br />

Judy Hurd, Larry Flinner, Scott Hurd, Michael<br />

Poliza, Mike Myers, Wilderness Safaris, Russell<br />

Friedman, Michael Benadi, Caroline Culbert,<br />

Dave Hamman, James Rawdon, Thomas Savage,<br />

Raymond Sahuquet, Spike Williamson and<br />

members of the <strong>Audley</strong> Africa team.<br />

All images used in this brochure were obtained<br />

in good faith by <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Group Limited<br />

and in the belief that all necessary consents and<br />

clearances were obtained for their use. However,<br />

if you believe that unauthorised use has been<br />

made of an image belonging to you please<br />

contact us on 01993 838 040.<br />

Visit our offices<br />

If you would like to discuss your<br />

travel arrangements in person we<br />

welcome personal visits, please call<br />

in advance to arrange an<br />

appointment with one or more of<br />

our country specialists. Our offices<br />

are at the New Mill, a 17th-century<br />

converted wool mill on the outskirts<br />

of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford,<br />

on the edge of the Cotswolds.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/visit-us<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Our website is packed with<br />

information, features and advice<br />

covering all our destinations across<br />

the globe. On the site you can browse by<br />

theme, special interest or region as well as<br />

viewing additional accommodation options<br />

and itineraries that are not featured in<br />

this brochure. You can download all our<br />

brochures online or contact us via the<br />

website where there is the option to tell<br />

us about your plans so that we can start<br />

tailoring your itinerary.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/africa ● 01993 838 500 ● Useful information 143


New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 500 • Fax: 01993 838 010<br />

Email: africa@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com<br />

This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forestry Stewardship Council, using vegetable inks.<br />

Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC environmental accreditations. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.

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