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technical manu al table of contents - Jamestown Distributors

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gener<strong>al</strong>ly quick to dry, and easier to maintain. Our Rubbed Effect Varnish contains<br />

urethane resins which produce a harder , more scratch resistant finish.<br />

We recommend building up from bare wood with a gloss finish and topcoating with the<br />

Rubbed Effect, simply for the effect. This accomplishes two things. Gloss finishes are<br />

more weather resistant and <strong>of</strong>fer better protection against UV and weather. Building up<br />

with 3-4 coats <strong>of</strong> this before the Rubbed Effect will maximize protection. Secondly, the<br />

build-up <strong>of</strong> gloss gives the over<strong>al</strong>l appearance <strong>of</strong> the finish more depth and clarity.<br />

Epifanes does <strong>manu</strong>facture a version <strong>of</strong> Rubbed Effect c<strong>al</strong>led Woodfinish Matte. This is<br />

one <strong>of</strong> the only “Rubbed Effect” finishes containing U.V. filters. This addition makes it<br />

very sui<strong>table</strong> for exterior use. It is <strong>of</strong>ten used on the inside <strong>of</strong> Canoes and Kayaks where<br />

a non-glare finish is desired.<br />

Question:<br />

Earlier, you made a comment that you person<strong>al</strong>ly prefer to<br />

build successive coats on a boat using unthinned or full strength<br />

varnish. This seems to "fly in the face" <strong>of</strong> what we have heard for years<br />

about the necessity <strong>of</strong> 'ramping up' coats using decreasing percentages<br />

<strong>of</strong> thinned varnish. I like the sound <strong>of</strong> using unthinned builder coats<br />

but, what accounts for the difference in methods?<br />

Answer:<br />

As you know, mil thickness is everything in a Clear Finish. However, in order to ensure<br />

adhesion, it is very important to apply the first sever<strong>al</strong> coats thinned. In most cases, we<br />

recommend thinning the first coat ½ and ½ or 50%. This results in maximum adhesion<br />

giving subsequent coats something to re<strong>al</strong>ly “hang” on to. The second coat should be<br />

thinned 25% and the third, 15%. Once these se<strong>al</strong>er coats have been applied, it is time to<br />

re<strong>al</strong>ly pour on the varnish and concentrate on building some mil thickness. This can be<br />

accomplished full strength or, thinned up to 5% if you are having a tough time due to<br />

weather or conditions.<br />

Question:<br />

For those <strong>of</strong> us who are not pr<strong>of</strong>ession<strong>al</strong>s and only varnish occasion<strong>al</strong>ly, can you<br />

elaborate on the various accep<strong>table</strong> methods <strong>of</strong> cleaning and storing brushes in between<br />

uses? Also, what is the qu<strong>al</strong>itative difference between Badger hairbrushes and Chinese<br />

Bristle brushes?<br />

Answer:<br />

When it comes to cleaning and storing brushes, we are stuck on one method that works<br />

very well for us. We have tried many methods, none with any degree <strong>of</strong> success,<br />

especi<strong>al</strong>ly over the long term. Most methods <strong>of</strong> course, work great over the short period<br />

but, it’ months or years later that re<strong>al</strong>ly tells the t<strong>al</strong>e in our opinion. This is how we<br />

recommend cleaning and storing a natur<strong>al</strong> bristle brush: First, find yourself a container<br />

that is impervious to solvents (polyethylene works good). Epifanes <strong>manu</strong>factures a

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