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Trade Policy Note Final-rev08 - Development

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were established almost exclusively to escape quotas, the industries have already<br />

collapsed (e.g. Lesotho, Maldives and Nepal) 130 .<br />

Increasing Productivity and Competitiveness<br />

In the short run, governments can improve competitiveness by reducing direct input<br />

costs, (such as labour and fabric) through (a) removal of tariff, fiscal and other<br />

impediments on imports of yarns or fabrics, (b) improvements in labour productivity,<br />

through training programmes. Higher levels of education and skills of workers can<br />

facilitate successful specialization in niche markets of more complicated clothing,<br />

such as the case of Sri Lanka in women’s garments. 131<br />

A series of other indirect costs can be reduced through programmes to improve<br />

infrastructure and logistics, streamline bureaucratic procedures, provide facilities for<br />

specialized education and develop human resources in design. Other factors being<br />

comparable, buyers will give priority to suppliers who can deliver new styles quickly<br />

and replenish inventory rapidly. Reduction of these indirect costs is crucial to meeting<br />

buyers’ needs. With the elimination of the quota regime, buyers will inevitably reduce<br />

their number of suppliers and deal with factories that can meet their requirements. On<br />

the other hand, they will want to spread their country risk and seek competitive<br />

suppliers in several countries.<br />

National policy measures to strengthen competitiveness and export performance,<br />

through trade facilitation, export credit facilities, particularly for SMEs will also be<br />

important. Over the longer run, government can encourage the creation of brands and<br />

nurture reputations. The stakes are very high because the development of an export<br />

capacity in the textiles and garment sector was the first step in the industrialization<br />

process for many countries. Given this historical context, the premature disappearance<br />

of this sector before new industries can be developed could severely constrict<br />

possibilities of creating the virtuous spiral described in Sections III and IV.<br />

Equity: Sharing of Benefits<br />

T&C exporters must also deal with the legacy of poor working conditions and abuse<br />

which have plagued the sector. The T&C sector has been associated with “sweatshop”<br />

working conditions and abuse of workers, especially women, which has raised<br />

international concern. In some cases, working conditions are unsustainable.It has<br />

beenclaimed that women working in the garment industry in Bangladesh are obliged<br />

to leave their jobs after five years due to deteriorating health caused by the working<br />

conditions. Such treatment is counterproductive as poor working conditions reduce<br />

pr oductivity. Successful countries have been those which have invested in upgrading<br />

skills of workers.<br />

Increased competition may result in reduced employment and a further deterioration<br />

in working conditions. Measures such as new legislation are needed to ensure that<br />

ILO Conventions are respected. Buyers have also become sensitive to social issues,<br />

and wish to be assured that their suppliers cannot be accused of not meeting minimum<br />

130 Ibid.<br />

131 See Adhikari, Ratnakar and Yumiko Yamamoto, Flying Colours, Broken Threads: One Year of<br />

Evidence from Asia after the Phas e-out of Textiles and Clothing Quotas, Tracking Report (Colombo:<br />

UNDP Asia Pacific <strong>Trade</strong> and Investment Initiative, December 2005) (www.undprcc.lk).<br />

65

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