Trade Policy Note Final-rev08 - Development
Trade Policy Note Final-rev08 - Development
Trade Policy Note Final-rev08 - Development
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were established almost exclusively to escape quotas, the industries have already<br />
collapsed (e.g. Lesotho, Maldives and Nepal) 130 .<br />
Increasing Productivity and Competitiveness<br />
In the short run, governments can improve competitiveness by reducing direct input<br />
costs, (such as labour and fabric) through (a) removal of tariff, fiscal and other<br />
impediments on imports of yarns or fabrics, (b) improvements in labour productivity,<br />
through training programmes. Higher levels of education and skills of workers can<br />
facilitate successful specialization in niche markets of more complicated clothing,<br />
such as the case of Sri Lanka in women’s garments. 131<br />
A series of other indirect costs can be reduced through programmes to improve<br />
infrastructure and logistics, streamline bureaucratic procedures, provide facilities for<br />
specialized education and develop human resources in design. Other factors being<br />
comparable, buyers will give priority to suppliers who can deliver new styles quickly<br />
and replenish inventory rapidly. Reduction of these indirect costs is crucial to meeting<br />
buyers’ needs. With the elimination of the quota regime, buyers will inevitably reduce<br />
their number of suppliers and deal with factories that can meet their requirements. On<br />
the other hand, they will want to spread their country risk and seek competitive<br />
suppliers in several countries.<br />
National policy measures to strengthen competitiveness and export performance,<br />
through trade facilitation, export credit facilities, particularly for SMEs will also be<br />
important. Over the longer run, government can encourage the creation of brands and<br />
nurture reputations. The stakes are very high because the development of an export<br />
capacity in the textiles and garment sector was the first step in the industrialization<br />
process for many countries. Given this historical context, the premature disappearance<br />
of this sector before new industries can be developed could severely constrict<br />
possibilities of creating the virtuous spiral described in Sections III and IV.<br />
Equity: Sharing of Benefits<br />
T&C exporters must also deal with the legacy of poor working conditions and abuse<br />
which have plagued the sector. The T&C sector has been associated with “sweatshop”<br />
working conditions and abuse of workers, especially women, which has raised<br />
international concern. In some cases, working conditions are unsustainable.It has<br />
beenclaimed that women working in the garment industry in Bangladesh are obliged<br />
to leave their jobs after five years due to deteriorating health caused by the working<br />
conditions. Such treatment is counterproductive as poor working conditions reduce<br />
pr oductivity. Successful countries have been those which have invested in upgrading<br />
skills of workers.<br />
Increased competition may result in reduced employment and a further deterioration<br />
in working conditions. Measures such as new legislation are needed to ensure that<br />
ILO Conventions are respected. Buyers have also become sensitive to social issues,<br />
and wish to be assured that their suppliers cannot be accused of not meeting minimum<br />
130 Ibid.<br />
131 See Adhikari, Ratnakar and Yumiko Yamamoto, Flying Colours, Broken Threads: One Year of<br />
Evidence from Asia after the Phas e-out of Textiles and Clothing Quotas, Tracking Report (Colombo:<br />
UNDP Asia Pacific <strong>Trade</strong> and Investment Initiative, December 2005) (www.undprcc.lk).<br />
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