Download PDF - Carl F. Bucherer

Collection 2012/13

Contents 

Brand philosophy 5 

History6 

Milestones8 

Carl F. Bucherer 10 

Carl F. Bucherer Technologies 12 

Manufacture movement CFB A1000 14 

Convincing interior 16 

The production of watches 18 

Collection 20 

Patravi. Technical excellence and aesthetic appeal. 22 

Patravi Calendar 24 

Patravi BigDate 26 

Patravi EvoTec 30 

Patravi TravelTec 38 

Patravi TravelTec FourX 44 

Patravi ChronoGrade 46 

Patravi ChronoDate Annual 50 

Patravi ChronoDate 52 

Patravi TravelGraph 56 

Patravi T-Graph 60 

Patravi T-24 64 

Patravi AutoDate & Patravi AutoDate TwoTone 68 

Manero. The art of watchmaking in its most authentic form. 74 

Manero ChronoPerpetual 76 

Manero Perpetual 78 

Manero CentralChrono 80 

Manero RetroGrade 82 

Manero MonoGraph 86 

Manero BigDate Power 90 

Manero Manero MoonPhase 92 

Manero AutoDate 94 

Alacria. The art of jewelry as practised for decades. 96 

Alacria Swan 98 

Alacria Royal 100 

Alacria Diva & Alacria 102 

Adamavi. Holding on to the tried and tested. 110 

Glossary116 

2

The rotor of a movement as the door 

handle to Carl F. Bucherer boutiques – welcome to 

the world of the Lucerne watch manufacture 

and its architectural maxim “Feel at home”. 

3

Brand philosophy. 

Entrepreneurs are people who have an idea and who dare to do 

something new. They follow their vision and their own path. 

People like Carl Friedrich Bucherer. In 1888, out of his passion for 

watchmaking, formed his first company in Lucerne, a company 

which has always been and still is owned entirely by the family. 

Right up to the present day, the founder’s philosophy has been 

reflected in the Carl F. Bucherer brand and its timepieces. As the 

only watch brand to have its origins in Lucerne, Carl F. Bucherer 

has been able to develop in his own unique way. 

Technological leadership 

At Carl F. Bucherer, technically demanding timepieces are developed 

by a selected team of specialists. The mechanical movements 

are painstakingly produced and assembled in our own workshops. 

With the utmost passion and precision, our watch makers create a 

micro-mechanical universe of the highest quality out of a multitude 

of individual components. 

The art of the jeweler 

Creating jewelry out of exquisite precious stones is one of the oldest 

crafts. It therefore goes without saying that the sophisticated jewelrymaking 

skills of Carl F. Bucherer are a company tradition, one which 

is pursued with great consistency. Sensitivity, pleasure, brilliance, 

genuineness and imagination are values that have always been at 

the center of the art of jewelry as practiced at Carl F. Bucherer. 

Independence 

In 1919 Carl Friedrich Bucherer, with his first collection of his own 

watches, established the basis for a brand. A brand which today, 

as a family-owned watch manufacture, has independence, authenticity 

and operational freedom as its core values. 

Continuity 

Driven by their passion for the craft of watchmaking and the art of 

jewelry, the people behind Carl F. Bucherer are constantly striving 

for perfection, beauty and uncompromising technical standards. 

Carl F. Bucherer designs and produces sophisticated timepieces of 

strong character and lasting value. 

5

History. 

A step ahead of its time. 

Self-confidence is an essential precondition for becoming established 

as an entrepreneur. Carl Friedrich Bucherer’s self-confidence 

was based on his technical skills, his prudence and his steadfast 

adherence to his goals. 

Since its formation over 120 years ago, the company formed by this 

visionary figure has remained in the sole ownership of the Bucherer 

family. This continuity means that today Carl F. Bucherer is one 

of the oldest major Swiss watchmaking companies to be held in the 

ownership of the founder’s family in unbroken succession. 

Continuity and independence are thus hallmarks of Carl F. Bucherer, 

as is the infectious dynamism that has again and again put the 

brand decisively ahead of its time. 

Carl Friedrich and Louise Bucherer established themselves with 

their watch and jewelry collection in 1888 at the Falkenplatz in 

Lucerne. Their sons Carl Eduard and Ernst consciously chose to train 

in two different (but equally important from the point of view 

of watch production) professions. While Carl Eduard became a goldsmith’s 

apprentice in London, specializing in cases and beautiful 

forms, Ernst trained as a watchmaker in St-Imier in western 

Switzerland. Both young men had inherited from their father not 

only a vocation for the profession of watchmaking and a desire 

to operate independently, but also the urge to be on the move. And 

so in 1915 Carl Eduard opened his own operation in Berlin at the 

highly regarded business address “Unter den Linden”. Ernst – also 

in Berlin – succeeded in being appointed court watchmaker to 

Kaiser Wilhelm II. 

In 1919, returning to Lucerne from revolution-torn Germany, the 

sons encouraged their father to launch his own ladies’ watch 

collection in the Art Deco style. The perfect interplay of aesthetic 

appeal, technical watchmaking skills and outstanding workmanship 

formed the basis of the creative “mythos” that was to spring from 

the House of Bucherer. Yet the achievements of the present time 

are but a call to address new challenges and to seek out ambitious 

goals. And so Carl Eduard and Ernst Bucherer used this success to 

continually raise their own standards of watchmaking expertise 

at the House of Bucherer, and to constantly set new trends through 

technical developments in the art of watchmaking. 

The ladies’ watches and jewelry watches were followed by sporty 

chronographs. At first these were simple, with three counters for 

the stopped seconds, minute and hour, but soon they also included 

a big date, and finally a calendar and also dial apertures for the 

day and month display under 12 o’clock. Between 1968 and 1976, 

i.e. during the golden age of mechanical watches before the quartz 

revolution, the renowned company became established as one 

of the top three most important producers of chronometers in 

Switzerland, thanks to the acquisition of workshops specializing in 

the production of chronometers. During this period the workshops 

produced over 15,000 certified chronometers year on year. In 1994, 

with the Archimedes Perpetual, Bucherer first put into practice 

its philosophy of concentrating on meaningful complications and 

ingeniously simple operability. 

6

Milestones. 

1888–2011. 

1888 Carl Friedrich Bucherer sets up his first specialist shop selling 

watches and jewelry on Falkenplatz in Lucerne. 

1913 The two sons of Carl Friedrich Bucherer, Carl Eduard and 

Ernst Bucherer, join their parents’ business. 

1919 Carl Friedrich Bucherer launches his first ladies’ watch collection 

in the Art Deco style. He is one of the first to adopt 

the watch strap – at that time still a revolutionary concept. 

1939 The Art Deco ladies’ watches from Bucherer, which are 

mostly made of platinum and set with diamonds, are now 

a sought-after rarity. 

1948 At an early stage the brand focuses on sporty chronographs 

and the practical display of the big date, with two discs 

turning independently of each other showing the current date 

in generously proportioned apertures on the dial. 

1968 By now, around 15,000 high-precision, certified chronometers 

have left the workshops, placing the brand among 

one of the top three most important Swiss producers 

of chronometers. 

1969 The company becomes part of a Swiss consortium for the 

development and production of the first quartz movement 

for wristwatches, the Beta 21. However, Bucherer continues 

to make top quality mechanical timepieces even during 

the golden age of electronic movements in the mid 1970s, 

gaining valuable expertise as a result. 

1971 The internal rotating ring for diving time in the Archimedes 

Supercompressor represents a top design achievement 

for the Bucherer development team. Combined with a world 

time mechanism, the diver’s watch is very much ahead 

of its time. 

1976 Jörg G. Bucherer – the third generation – takes over the 

tradition-rich company. 

1919 1948 

1939 1971 

8

1994 With the company’s own development of the Archimedes 

Perpetual, Carl F. Bucherer is concentrating on useful additional 

functions and practical benefits. The crown is used to 

set the full calendar displays. 

2001 The Carl F. Bucherer brand is repositioned and the Patravi 

Chronograph GMT is launched. 

2002 In line with the company tradition: the chronograph function 

and the big date run consistently through the collection. 

2003 Creation of the Alacria “watch family” – the feminine 

expression of time and of the company’s jewelry expertise. 

2004 The brand’s first chronograph in tonneau case. The Patravi 

T-Graph as a synonym for the functional masculine watch. 

2005 One of the patents filed by Carl F. Bucherer: The monopusher 

mechanism of the Patravi TravelTec, which is integrated into 

the case, permits the parallel display of three time zones. 

2006 A masterpiece of the watchmaker’s art: the Manero Perpetual 

with perpetual calendar. 

2007 Carl F. Bucherer Technologies in Ste-Croix – The company’s 

own workshop for research, development and production of 

manufacture movements and modules for additional functions. 

2008 Carl F. Bucherer presents the CFB A1000 manufacture movement, 

demonstrating the brand’s innovative strength. 

2009 The Patravi EvoTec DayDate is the first product of a concept 

which is fully developed and unique to the brand. 

2010 Launch of two further watch models: the Patravi EvoTec 

PowerReserve and the Patravi EvoTec BigDate. 

2011 The first Patravi model, which integrates the functional 

module CFB A1004: The Patravi Calendar. 

1994 

2009 

2001 

2011 

9

Carl F. Bucherer. 

Watchmaking creativity. 

An important chapter in the history of the renowned watch 

manufacture began in 2007. Since that date, Carl F. Bucherer has 

been developing and producing mechanical watch movements 

and functional modules in its own workshops. 

Carl F. Bucherer Technologies SA in Ste-Croix, as a competence 

center for research, development and production, this center is 

home to extensive know-how, a high level of design creativity, and 

a modern infrastructure. 

All the processes and work stages carried out there are derived 

from a concept whose basis represents a unique, patent-protected 

methodology. This methodology includes concentration on a philosophy 

the foundations of which were established several decades 

ago: the creation and design of meaningful, useful and attractive 

mechanisms and additional functions. Part of this approach is 

for complex challenges such as planned or existing technologies to 

be reviewed, so that wherever necessary and possible independent 

solutions can be used to make improvements or reduce complexity, 

in order to achieve more intelligent and above all, more reliable 

results. 

Thanks to this methodology, Carl F. Bucherer only brings movements 

and watches to the market that have been subjected to stringent 

testing, and which will appeal to the wearer by their perfect combination 

of attractive appearance, traditional craftsmanship, and 

technological advances. 

10

Carl F. Bucherer 

Technologies. 

Highest technical level. 

On 1 July 2007 Bucherer Montres S.A. acquired the manufacture THA 

(Téchniques Horlogères Appliquées) in Ste-Croix and incorporated 

it into the company as Carl F. Bucherer Technologies. The foundation 

stone for the independent Lucerne brand’s long-cherished ambition 

of producing its own movements was thus laid. 

Within a short period the results spoke for themselves: The original 

seven employees have grown to 34, with watchmakers, engineers, 

designers, mechanics, supply chain manager, project management 

and process engineers making up the majority of the staff of Carl 

F. Bucherer Technologies. The expansion of the produc tion area 

to 2000 m 2 also provides space for much newly acquired machinery, 

which ensures a vertical integration of seventy percent in the 

manufacture. 

With these technical and human resources, Carl F. Bucherer Technologies 

is ready for innovation. Soon after taking over the manufacture, 

Bucherer Montres S.A. presented the CFB A1000, an automatic 

caliber with peripheral oscillating weight which is used to 

power the Patravi EvoTec DayDate and which has been patented 

by Carl F. Bucherer. Building on this, the CFB A1001, CFB A1002, 

and CFB A1003 modules – again, all integrated in the models 

of the Patravi EvoTec family – have since appeared. In 2011 Carl F. 

Bucherer presented the CFB A1004, which is integrated in the 

Patravi Calendar. Projects planned for the future are no less ambitious. 

At Carl F. Bucherer Technologies, no one doubts that the 

company’s ambitious aims will become reality. 

12

CFB A1000. 

The movement for 

a new era. 

After three years of work by the watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer, 

the result is a movement of rare perfection. The CFB A1000 caliber 

is the expression of a philosophy that will characterize a new 

era in the art of watchmaking. 

Thanks to the first reliably functioning peripherally mounted and 

bidirectional winding oscillating weight, which provides an 

unimpeded view of the carefully decorated microcosm, this movement 

combines the aesthetic appeal of a hand-wound movement 

with the convenience of automatic winding. 

The integrated patented dynamic shock absorption system known 

as “Dynamic Shock Absorption” (DSA) is characterized by a very 

high level of efficiency and reliability. The walls of the bridge 

absorb radial displacements of the oscillating weight in the event 

of violent impact. 

With the carefully devised precision adjustment with central 

control element for the vibrating and escapement system, 

Carl F. Bucherer has also produced a patented innovation. With the 

Central Dual Adjusting System (CDAS), the balance wheel only 

needs one adjustment and its settings remain unchanged thanks 

to the high positioning, even in the event of violent impact. 

14

The CFB A1000 caliber produced by Carl F. Bucherer 

is an expression of a new era in the art of watchmaking. 

15

Convincing interior. 

Automatic Manufacture Caliber CFB A1000 

diameter 30 mm, height 4.3 mm, 

power reserve 55 hours, 

frequency 21 600 beats per hour/3Hz, 

regulating mechanism classical, 

Escapement: Swiss club-tooth 

lever escapement 

Functional Module CFB A1001 




big date, day of the week, 

hour, minute, 

small seconds 

power reserve, big date, 

day of the week, hour, 

minute, small seconds 

big date, hour, 


week, big date, 

day of the week, hour, 


Patravi EvoTec DayDate 

Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve 

Patravi EvoTec BigDate 

Patravi Calendar 

16

The production of technical 

masterpieces at Carl F. Bucherer is 

ensured by specialist watchmakers. 

17

The production of watches. 

Striving for perfection. 

From the outset, Carl F. Bucherer’s ambition has been focused 

on gaining overall mastery of the demanding art of watchmaking, 

including the shaping of the case and the design of the dial: even in 

the days of Carl Eduard (the goldsmith) and Ernst (the watchmaker), 

new standards of excellence were being set in watchmaking 

under the watchful eye of their father Carl Friedrich Bucherer. 

Only when the combination of technical perfection and aesthetic 

appeal has been fully mastered is it possible for extraordinary 

watches to be created. 

The time-intensive cooperation of designers, watchmakers, polishers, 

goldsmiths, setters, engravers, guillocheurs, gemologists and all 

the other specialists concerned guarantees the creation of a work 

of art that will stand the test of time. This is why Carl F. Bucherer 

accepts no compromise on quality. Functional security, precision, 

production, processing, materials and jewels must meet Carl F. 

Bucherer’s extremely high standards. 

18

Collection. 

Tradition, innovation, competence, 

timelessness. 

Passionately striving for perfection, intensely expressive aesthetic 

appeal, innovative technology, traditional watchmaking skills 

and carefully selected materials are the hallmarks of the collections 

from Carl F. Bucherer. 

Patravi 

“I have achieved”. The Patravi stands for the comprehensive watchmaking 

know-how of Carl F. Bucherer, for technical innovation, 

attractive and useful additional functions, and striking design characteristics. 

Manero 

“That which is led by the hand”. With the Manero, Carl F. Bucherer 

presents a range of modern classics whose beauty and elegance 

are skillfully combined with mechanical precision and practical 

functionality. 

20

Alacria 

“Enthusiasm and zest for life”. With its uniquely contoured and 

tapered case, the Alacria ladies’ range offers the ideal basis for the 

creation of prestigious jewelry watches, demonstrating the high 

level of jewelry skills to be found at Carl F. Bucherer. 

Adamavi 

“Falling in love”. With its discreet elegance and mechanical reliability, 

the Adamavi collection from Carl F. Bucherer always represents 

a timeless, tried and tested classic range. 

21

Patravi. 

Technical excellence and 

aesthetic appeal. 

Traditional watchmaking artistry, the highest technical and innovative 

standards, striking design – all combined in one watch, 

the Patravi from Carl F. Bucherer. The sophisticated and carefully 

decorated mechanical movements are fitted with useful additional 

functions such as chronograph, big date and power reserve indication. 

In most models, a caseback with sapphire crystal provides 

a clear view of the fascinating microcosm. 

The striking and timeless aesthetic appeal of the Patravi adds 

to the pieces’ attraction. The case is a harmonious whole, yet 

extraordinarily complex. Its integrated structure permits a special 

high quality surface finish with a subtle interplay of satinized 

and polished parts. The dials, produced according to strict quality 

criteria, are unequalled in terms of their complexity, richness of 

detail and readability. The interplay with three-dimensionality 

is unique – the index marks, cut with diamond tools and typical of 

the Patravi range, are applied by hand, indications like the big date 

and chronograph totalizators are framed, and a flange surrounds 

the dial like an arena. 

In short: Its craftsmanship, its useful functionality and its striking 

style make the Patravi the archetypical example of a modern 

watch. 

22

Patravi Calendar. 

For every week of the year. 

And one more. 

From a technical point of view, the appeal of the Patravi Calendar 

lies in the integrated CFB A1000 Manufacture caliber with its 

peripheral rotor, used for the first time in a round case at Carl F. 

Bucherer. With this model, Carl F. Bucherer is satisfying the 

requirements of the many people who prefer a classic round timepiece 

and for whom functionality is also important. For the CFB 

A1004 functional module includes alongside the day indication and 

big date, a practical calendar week display, which even shows 

the 53 rd calendar week. This means that, in the years concerned, 

it is no longer necessary to turn the calendar week back. A very 

practical watch, this Patravi Calendar. 

24

PATRAVI Calendar 

Movement automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1004, 

diameter 32 mm, height 6.9 mm, 33 jewels, 

power reserve 55 hours 

Functions week: switching the week from Sunday to Monday; 

big date, day of the week, hour, minute, small seconds 

Case stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, 

sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating 

on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, 

water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), 

diameter 42.6 mm, height 12.85 mm 

1 

2 

00.10629.08.33.01 

Strap calfskin, 

stainless steel folding clasp 

Variants 00.10629.08.33.02 

Switching the week from 

Saturday to Sunday 

00.10629.03.13.01 


18 K rose gold pin lock folding clasp 

Variants 00.10629.03.13.02 

Switching the week from 

Saturday to Sunday 

25

Patravi BigDate. 

A well rounded solution. 

With the Patravi BigDate, Carl F. Bucherer has succeeded in creating 

an exciting contrast between advanced technology and timeless 

aesthetic appeal: inside the Patravi BigDate ticks the CFB A1000 

Manufacture caliber with peripheral rotor, in the form of the 

CFB A1003 functional module. This ensures the function and indication 

of the big date at 11 o’clock and the small seconds at 6 o’clock. 

Externally, the appeal of the timepiece lies in its classical round 

case, the easy-to-view design of the functions, and the top-quality 

materials used. 

Whether it is the internal or the external features of the Patravi 

BigDate that are most important to you – both are equally impressive. 

26

PATRAVI BigDate 




Functions big date, hour, minute, small seconds 


sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, 

caseback with sapphire crystal, 



3 

4 

5 

00.10630.08.33.01 



00.10630.08.87.11 

Case 64 diamonds FC TW vvs 1.0 ct 

Dial black Tahitian mother-of-pearl, 

5 diamonds FC TW vvs 

Strap Louisiana alligator leather, 


00.10630.08.23.11 


Strap water snake skin, 


28

6 

7 

00.10630.03.77.01 

Dial mother-of-pearl, 




00.10630.03.77.11 






29

Patravi EvoTec. 

Mechanical masterpiece 

in a striking curved case. 

The Patravi EvoTec offers the perfect framework for the CFB A1000 

Manufacture caliber. For all models in this family, the caliber has 

been fitted with specially developed functional modules, providing 

the small seconds at 6 o’clock and the impressive big date, the 

dimensions of which are eye-catching even for this form of date 

presentation. It is also unusually positioned in the upper left dial 

quadrant. 

There is also a clearly designed day indicator. Or perhaps a new 

kind of power reserve indication, in which a small red hand sits on 

a rack powered by a differential mechanism under the dial, 

moving above the High/Low indication to show the power remaining. 

When the power is getting low, this is clearly indicated by the 

increasing area of red background. 

30

PATRAVI EvoTec DayDate 




Functions day of the week, big date, 

hour, minute, small seconds 


domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating 



dimensions 43.75 × 44.5 mm, height 13.95 mm 

8 

9 

10 

00.10625.13.33.01 

Case rubber bezel, 

rubber screw-down crown 



00.10625.15.93.01 





00.10625.08.33.01 



32

11 

12 

13 

00.10625.08.33.21 

Bracelet stainless steel, 


00.10625.08.63.01 



00.10625.08.63.21 



33

PATRAVI EvoTec PowerReserve 




Functions power reserve, big date, day of the week, 







14 

15 

00.10627.13.33.01 





00.10627.15.93.01 





34

16 

17 

00.10627.08.33.01 



00.10627.08.33.21 



35

PATRAVI EvoTec BigDate 




Functions big date, hour, minute, small seconds 






18 

19 

20 

00.10628.08.33.01 



00.10628.08.23.01 

Strap python skin, 


00.10628.08.87.11 


Dial black Tahitian mother-of-pearl, 


Strap calfskin with lacquer, 


36

21 

22 

23 

00.10628.08.23.11 




00.10628.03.77.01 





00.10628.03.77.11 






37

Patravi TravelTec. 

For frequent fliers and world travelers. 

It is a time machine. Developed with all the passion of the watchmaker’s 

art: strong character, imposing, yet harmonious. 

Powered by the specially developed CFB 1901.1 caliber. A chronograph 

that not only satisfies the highest requirements in terms 

of precision, thanks to its chronometer certification, but which also 

displays three different time zones simultaneously. 

This necessitated a hitherto unknown integration of movement and 

case. Part of the switch mechanism for the time zone selection is 

integrated into the case, which makes this one of the most complex 

mechanical watches in the world. The innovative monopusher 

at 10 o’clock that controls this mechanism has been patented by 

Carl F. Bucherer. 

The Patravi TravelTec is the perfect watch for frequent fliers and 

people who need to communicate all over the world. 

38

PATRAVI TravelTec 

Movement automatic, caliber CFB 1901.1, chronometer, 

diameter 28.6 mm, height 7.3 mm, 39 jewels, 


Functions chronograph: hour, minute and seconds counters; 

three time zones, date, hour, minute, seconds 

Case stainless steel, screw-down crown, 




24 

25 

26 

00.10620.08.33.01 



00.10620.08.33.21 



00.10620.08.63.01 



40

27 

28 

29 

00.10620.08.63.21 



00.10620.08.53.01 



00.10620.08.53.21 



41

PATRAVI TravelTec 

Movement automatic, caliber CFB 1901.1, chronometer, 





Case 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, 




30 

31 

00.10620.03.33.01 



00.10620.03.93.01 



42

32 

33 

00.10620.03.33.21 

Bracelet 18 K rose gold, 

18 K rose gold folding clasp 

00.10620.03.33.12 




43

Patravi TravelTec FourX. 

Time and matter. 

Palladium, ceramic, titanium and rubber transform time into reality 

in a new way. With its case made of the precious metal palladium, 

named after the asteroid Pallas, the Patravi TravelTec FourX hovers 

between the terrestrial and the cosmic levels. 

Jet black scratch-resistant ceramic turns the bezel into a striking 

statement. 

The monopusher and the pin buckle are made of titanium; the crown, 

the chronograph pusher and the strap are made of hard-wearing 

rubber. The painstakingly skeleton dial with its sophisticated date 

indication under an effective magnifier completes the technical 

look of this extraordinary overall concept. The figures are milled out 

of the date room and remain invisible until they appear in the 

date window with the red background. 

Your journey through time can begin. 

44

PATRAVI TravelTec FourX 

Movement automatic, CFB 1901.1 caliber, chronometer, 





Case 950 palladium, ceramic bezel, rubber screw-down crown 

and pusher, titanium monopusher, sapphire crystal 

with anti-reflective coating on both sides, 



34 

00.10620.21.93.01 

Strap rubber, 

titanium pin buckle 

45

Patravi ChronoGrade. 

Time under total control. 

To call this a mere chronograph would be a huge understatement. 

The Patravi ChronoGrade combines six functions that have never 

before been brought together in this way in a mechanical watch. 

Firstly, with the power reserve indication the chronograph provides 

a check on its own power supply from the barrel. With its big 

date in the double window and the monthly calendar which allows 

for different month lengths, it reliably guarantees synchronization 

of the days. With the retrograde hour counter, long periods of time 

within a six-hour cycle can be measured. For shorter intervals, on 

the other hand, there is the flyback function. The pusher only needs 

to be pressed once for the hand to jump back to zero and automatically 

restart. 

Thanks to the Patravi ChronoGrade, time becomes a fascinating 

event. 

46

PATRAVI ChronoGrade 

Movement automatic, CFB 1902 caliber, 



Functions chronograph: retrograde hours counter, 

minute and seconds counters, flyback; big date, 

annual calendar, bidirectional power reserve, 







35 

36 

37 

00.10623.08.33.01 



00.10623.08.63.01 



00.10623.08.53.21 



48

38 

39 

40 

00.10623.03.33.21 

Movement CFB 1902.1 caliber, 

chronometer 



00.10623.03.93.01 


chronometer 


hand-stitched, 


00.10623.03.13.01 


chronometer 




49

Patravi ChronoDate Annual. 

One day, one month, one year, 

one calendar. 

An exclusive chronometer caliber with essential stop function, 

annual calendar and big date in the double window makes the 

Patravi ChronoDate Annual the perfect timepiece for all months of 

the year. The fact that its calendar will need a little assistance 

at the end of February has been deliberately taken into account 

by Carl F. Bucherer. 

With all other months, thanks to a complex mechanism involving 

numerous wheels, levers and rockers, the timepiece switches 

precisely to the 1 st of the month, irrespective of whether the previous 

month has 30 or 31 days. 

A remarkably elegant satinized case made of high quality rose gold 

protects the mechanical jewel. 

50

PATRAVI ChronoDate Annual 





annual calendar, big date, hour, minute, small seconds 

Case 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal 




diameter 42 mm, height 14.1 mm 

41 

42 

43 

00.10619.03.33.01 




00.10619.03.93.01 




00.10619.03.13.21 



51

Patravi ChronoDate. 

Aesthetic functionality. 

The Patravi ChronoDate proves that practical values certainly can 

be aesthetically pleasing. 

With the framed big date in the double window below 12 o’clock, 

the date – an everyday necessity – can be read even more quickly 

and easily. 

Carl F. Bucherer is making a reference here to a form of date 

indi cation that has been used for decades by the company. Together 

with the lighter colored chronograph functions at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, 

the functions are arranged with a pleasing symmetry and contribute 

to the perfect legibility of the dial. 

52

PATRAVI ChronoDate 





big date, hour, minute, small seconds 

Case stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal 

with anti-reflective coating on one side, 




44 

45 

46 

00.10611.08.23.02 



00.10611.08.23.12 




00.10611.08.74.11 






53

PATRAVI ChronoDate 





big date, hour, minute, small seconds 






47 

48 

49 

00.10624.08.33.01 



00.10624.08.33.21 



00.10624.08.13.01 



54

50 

51 

52 

00.10624.08.13.21 



00.10624.08.53.01 



00.10624.08.53.21 



55

Patravi TravelGraph. 

Two worlds on one level. 

The watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer have specially developed the 

CFB 1901 caliber for frequent travelers. In the Patravi TravelGraph, 

this caliber combines the chronograph functions of a stopwatch 

with the additional display for a second time zone. 

The eye-catching feature of the Patravi TravelGraph is the rotatable 

bezel made of durable rubber and stainless steel with 24-hour 

markings, which enable it to be set as a temporary third time zone. 

The second time zone can be adjusted directly via the crown. 

Turning beyond the time zone limit automatically also switches 

the date. 

These special technical features make the Patravi TravelGraph the 

ideal traveling watch. 

56

PATRAVI TravelGraph 





second time zone, date, hour, minute, small seconds 

Case stainless steel, rubber/stainless steel bezel, 

screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective 

coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, 



53 

54 

55 

00.10618.13.33.01 



00.10618.13.33.21 



00.10618.13.23.01 



58

56 

57 

58 

00.10618.13.23.21 



00.10618.13.53.01 



00.10618.13.53.21 



59

Patravi T-Graph. 

The highest standards of time measurement 

in a traditional form. 

The tonneau-shaped form of the Patravi T-Graph, borrowed from the 

traditional art of watchmaking, consciously creates an idiosyncratic 

counterpoint. 

Yet its unusual bidirectional power reserve indication also makes 

it an aesthetically pleasing alternative for connoisseurs of the best 

in time measurement. 

A disk with high/low indication, which rotates in a clockwise direction 

when the watch is wound up, is arranged at 6 o’clock. The 

dual hand sitting on the disk does not behave in the usual retrograde 

fashion, but also moves in a clockwise direction as the watch 

winds down. A technical refinement that is used for the first time 

in the Patravi T-Graph. 

60

PATRAVI T-Graph 




Functions chronograph: hour- and minute counters; 

bidirectional power reserve, big date, 





dimensions 39 × 42 mm, height 13.8 mm 

59 

60 

61 

00.10615.08.33.01 



00.10615.08.13.21 



00.10615.08.53.01 



62

62 

63 

64 

00.10615.03.33.01 

Movement automatic, CFB 1960.1 caliber, 

chronometer 


hand-stitched 


00.10615.03.93.01 


chronometer 


hand-stitched 


00.10615.03.13.01 


chronometer 


hand-stitched 


63

Patravi T-24. 

24 perfectly formed hours. 

Proof that striking elegance and perfect ergonomics do not have 

to be mutually exclusive is exhibited in the Patravi T-24. Its tonneaushaped 

case is perfectly formed. As an optional highlight, twelve 

points on the bezel hold a total of 48 diamonds in compact groups 

of four. The practical benefit is that these points and the diamonds 

mark the hours and minutes. 

The finely decorated 24 hour indication at 12 o’clock, which can 

be set independently of the hours and minutes hands, is used to 

indicate a second time zone. 

An optical counterpart to this is provided by the dynamically curved 

power reserve indication at 6 o’clock. 

64

PATRAVI T-24 




Functions second time zone, date, power reserve, 

hour, minute, seconds 





65 

66 

67 

00.10612.08.23.11 




00.10612.08.74.11 






00.10612.03.74.11 






66

68 

69 

70 

00.10612.08.33.21 



00.10612.03.93.01 



00.10612.03.13.01 



67

Patravi AutoDate and 

Patravi AutoDate TwoTone. 

The aesthetic component of time. 

Uncluttered, clear and classic in its design, pared down to the 

essentials in its functionality. This is mechanical refinement at its 

fascinating best. 

Both the Patravi AutoDate and the Patravi AutoDate TwoTone convey 

the time and date with unmistakable features; in an elegantly 

simple form or with diamonds of the highest purity, in the pure 

stainless steel case variant or in the two tone variant with stainless 

steel and 18 K rose gold. These stylish timepieces are available 

in different realizations and three dimensions for each variant. 

So that each individual wish can be fulfilled. 

68

PATRAVI AutoDate TwoTone 

Movement automatic, height 4.8 mm, 


Functions date, hour, minute, seconds 

Case stainless steel and 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, 

sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side, 



Bracelet stainless steel and 18 K rose gold, 


71 

72 

00.10617.07.23.21 

Movement CFB 1950 caliber, 

diameter 26.2 mm, 26 jewels 

Case diameter 38 mm, height 10.85 mm 

00.10621.07.23.31 


diameter 20 mm, 25 jewels 

Case 48 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.45 ct, 


69

PATRAVI AutoDate 

Movement automatic, 








73 

74 

75 

00.10617.08.23.01 


diameter 26.2 mm, height 4.8 mm, 

26 jewels 


00.10622.08.77.11 



25 jewels 





Strap python skin 

00.10621.08.23.01 



25 jewels 


70

76 

77 

78 

00.10617.08.77.01 



26 jewels 




00.10622.08.23.11 



25 jewels 



00.10621.08.77.01 



25 jewels 




71

PATRAVI AutoDate 

Movement automatic, 





water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm) 



79 

80 

81 

00.10617.08.77.31 



26 jewels 





00.10622.08.77.21 



25 jewels 




00.10621.08.23.31 



25 jewels 



72

At Carl F. Bucherer Technologies, elaborate movements 

are produced using smallest tools. 

73

Manero. 

The art of watchmaking 

in its most authentic form. 

The Manero is virtuoso watchmaking craftsmanship in its most 

authentic form, a timeless classic of discreet yet powerful elegance. 

Its entire essence is contained in its name, which is derived from 

the Latin “manuaria”, meaning “that which is led by the hand”. 

The name Manero points to the precisely adjusted internal life of 

the watch with its mechanical refinement, the complexity of which 

is clearly conveyed by the elaborate three-dimensional dials. 

The Manero is conceived for people who appreciate the hidden 

values of the mechanical movement as much as the straight-lined 

beauty of this timepiece. 

74

Manero ChronoPerpetual. 

Peak technical performance. 

This is a complicated – as the term is understood in watchmakingtimepiece. 

The perpetual calendar, with the correction-free 

indication of date, day, month and moon phase, has always been 

and remains a technical challenge that only a handful of watchmakers 

are able to meet, because of its complexity and mechanical 

refinement. The mechanism recognizes the different month lengths 

and knows when the next leap year will start. It can therefore 

cope with the vagaries of our calendar, which goes back to Pope 

Gregory (1532–1585). 

A manual correction will not be necessary until 2100, when the 

leap year is omitted, as in all years that are divisible by 100 but not 

400. 

76

MANERO ChronoPerpetual 




Functions chronograph: hour, minute and seconds counters, 

flyback; perpetual calendar: month, date, day of the week; 

leap year, moon phase, tachymeter, hour, minute, small seconds 

Case stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, domed sapphire crystal with 

anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, 



82 

83 

00.10906.08.13.01 



stainless steel pin buckle 

Limited edition 150 pieces 

00.10906.03.13.01 



18 K rose gold pin buckle 


77

Manero Perpetual. 

Forever. And for eternity. 

The art of dealing with the vagaries of the Gregorian calendar, with 

its short February and its leap years, by means of a correction-free 

mechanism, as well as reflecting the current phase of the moon, is 

an art that has been mastered by the specialists at Carl F. Bucherer. 

Not until two generations’ time will it be necessary to have a 

correction made by the watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer. There will 

be no leap year in 2100. But fortunately we have a good few years 

in hand. 

And in any case the Manero Perpetual will last for many generations 

more. 

78

MANERO Perpetual 




Functions perpetual calendar: leap year, month, date, day of the week; 

moon phase, hour, minute, seconds 

Case 18 K rose gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective 




84 

85 

00.10902.03.16.21 



00.10902.03.16.11 




79

Manero CentralChrono. 

Central thinking. 

The name is the program. The appeal of the Manero CentralChrono 

lies in its chronograph indication, used for the first time in this 

way at Carl F. Bucherer: The minute indication, controlled by hands 

from the center, cleverly sets the Manero CentralChrono apart from 

other chronographs and provides the wearer with a rapid overview 

of this complication. 

Persuasive functionality, perfect readability, complemented by 

classic elegance. 

If only life were always so accommodating. 

80

MANERO CentralChrono 



power reserve 40–44 hours 

Functions chronograph: central minute counter, seconds counter; 

date, 24-hour, hour, minute, small seconds 

Case stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective 




86 

87 

00.10910.08.33.01 



00.10910.08.13.01 



81

Manero RetroGrade. 

The greatest selection in 

the smallest space. 

First class designers are indispensable in watchmaking. This is made 

abundantly clear by the Manero RetroGrade. 

No fewer than seven hands and four additional indications are 

arranged with the greatest possible clarity on its elegant dial. 

The 24 hour display for a second time zone is presented in circular 

form at 12 o’clock, with the indication of the day at 9 o’clock. As the 

month goes by, the filigree hand of the retrograde date indication 

moves on a semicircular scale from top to bottom, immediately 

jumping back to its starting point on the last day. The dynamic of the 

sectoral indication of the power reserve shows the energy stored 

in the barrel of the automatic movement. 

The Manero RetroGrade – simple refinement. 

82

MANERO RetroGrade 




Functions retrograde calendar: date, day of the week; 

24-hour, power reserve, 






88 

89 

90 

00.10901.08.36.01 



00.10901.08.26.21 



00.10901.08.36.31 




84

91 

92 

93 

00.10901.03.16.01 


chronometer 



00.10901.03.16.21 


chronometer 



00.10901.03.16.11 


chronometer 




85

Manero MonoGraph. 

The art of mechanical watchmaking 

in its most aesthetic form. 

It is the moment for taking a little time. For a second or for a minute, 

stopped by the Monograph. 

Unique in the functionality and design of the integrated chronograph, 

which with a single monopusher integrates the Start, Stop 

and Return functions and incorporates the operating element in 

the winding crown. Also unique, however, in regard to the design 

of the dial, which has been elaborately created on three levels 

using the finest materials. The Manero MonoGraph combines two 

worlds – filigree beauty on the one hand, and technical refinement 

on the other. 

A piece of jewelry from the exclusive art of the watchmaker. 

86

MANERO MonoGraph 

Movement hand-wound, CFB 1962 caliber, 



Functions chronograph: monopusher, 30 minutes counter, seconds counter; 






94 

95 

96 

00.10904.08.16.01 

Dial counters mother-of-pearl 

Strap alligator and calfskin, 


00.10904.08.16.21 




00.10904.08.86.11 


Dial bridge and counters mother-of-pearl 

Strap python and calfskin, 


88

97 

98 

99 

00.10904.03.16.01 


Strap lizard and calfskin, 


00.10904.03.76.11 



Strap python and calfskin, 


00.10904.03.76.31 





89

Manero BigDate Power. 

For every occasion. 

A timepiece that cleverly combines elegant simplicity and practical 

functionality: in addition to its classic design, the Manero BigDate 

Power’s striking features are its big date and an integrated power 

reserve indication. 

So that time never stands still. 

90

MANERO BigDate Power 




Functions big date, power reserve, hour, minute, seconds 





100 

101 

102 

00.10905.08.13.01 



00.10905.03.13.01 



00.10905.03.13.11 




91

Manero MoonPhase. 

Classic complexity. 

Its detailed calendar function is fascinating. With a single glance 

at his wrist, the wearer has a rapid overview of the current date, 

which is shown by means of hands radiating from the center. While 

the indication of the day has been positioned at 10 o’clock, the 

current month can be seen in the right half at 2 o’clock. 

This special calendar is completed by the moon phase indication, 

which appears in the center at 6 o’clock, appearing as a gold-colored 

moon disk in front of a blue background. 

An eye-catching timepiece that incorporates a high level of technical 

refinement with its inner workings. 

92

MANERO MoonPhase 




Functions moon phase, month, date, day of the week, 


Case 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective 

coating on one side, caseback with sapphire crystal, 



103 

00.10909.03.13.01 



93

Manero AutoDate. 

Homage to the 60s. 

1960s design succeeded in establishing influential trends in the 

world of fashion, creating forms that will last forever. Simple and 

classically appealing three-hand watches with dials reduced 

to the essentials set new standards during this period, which have 

continued to be of major importance in the design of timepieces 

right up to the present day. 

A striking example of the design features originating from this 

period can be found in the Manero AutoDate. The classic, understated 

design emphasizes the functionality of this vintage style 

timepiece, which presents the essentials at a glance: the current 

time and the date at 3 o’clock. 

Elegant simplicity, mechanical sophistication. 

94

MANERO AutoDate 





Case stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal with 

anti-reflective coating on one side, caseback with sapphire crystal, 



104 

105 

106 

00.10908.08.13.01 



00.10908.03.13.01 



00.10908.03.13.21 



95

Alacria. 

The art of jewelry 

as practiced for decades. 

Since time immemorial people have been fascinated by the sparkle 

of jewels and diamonds. By adorning themselves with fine jewels 

they express their personality and zest for life, emphasizing beauty 

in their own special way. For example, with a jewelry watch 

from Carl F. Bucherer – a masterly synthesis of the traditional craft 

of the watchmaker and the art of jewelry at its best. 

Intuition and manual skills have produced rare, timeless pieces of 

jewelry dedicated to the glittering presentation of time. 

To create this glittering beauty, the watchmakers and jewelers at 

Carl F. Bucherer will have devoted innumerable hours and all 

their technical knowledge. A process that begins with selecting the 

precious raw materials, chosen on the basis of the color, purity 

and cut of the diamonds. Choosing the right jewels involves understanding 

their exquisite nature and the extraordinarily high quality 

required. Only the best jewels are used. The latest processing 

technology and a great deal of skill and care are coupled with a real 

appreciation for manually set gems. 

Each stage in the process requires time; every single movement is 

checked by an expert. Experienced polishers give the watches 

their final polish and their definitive sparkle. A sparkle that appears 

not only in our jewelry watches, but also in the eyes of the women 

who wear them. 

96

Alacria Swan. 

Perfect beauty. 

Swans are part of Switzerland’s Lake Lucerne as much as it’s 

Chapel Bridge. Or indeed the Bucherer family, which in 1888 formed 

the company that bears its name. 

Thus the Alacria Swan is a tribute to the city of Lucerne, its lake, 

and the Bucherer family. 

With the Alacria Swan, Carl F. Bucherer demonstrates once again 

the extremely high standards of jewelry making as practiced by 

the company – but with an opulence never seen before. More than 

1,300 white diamonds of the highest quality, and the curved form 

of this sparkling piece, embody the purity and beauty of this 

proud swan. Together with a case that recalls feminine forms and 

a bracelet of 18 K white gold, the Alacria Swan is an expression 

of unsurpassable feminine grace and elegance. 

The swan is regarded as an extremely faithful creature. It goes 

without saying that any woman who wears an Alacria Swan will 

never be parted from it. Unless she can no longer tolerate the 

admiring glances she gets. 

98

ALACRIA Swan 

Movement quartz 

Functions hour, minute 

Case 18 K white gold, 348 diamonds FC TW vvs 3.30 ct, 

domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, 


dimensions 26.5 × 38 mm, height 7.4 mm 

107 

00.10702.02.90.27 

Dial 18 K white gold, 

137 diamonds FC TW vvs 1.2 ct 

Crown 1 diamond TW vvs 

Bracelet 18 K white gold, 



99

Alacria Royal. 

The crowning jewel to your appearance. 

In Indian culture, the orange and blue of the sapphire are regarded 

as the main colors of the gods, standing for courage and selfsacrifice. 

In many societies the green of the emerald stands for 

energy and pure life. The red of the ruby, on the other hand, reflects 

power and dignity. The diamond symbolizes timelessness and 

majestic power. 

This inspired Carl F. Bucherer to create four fine watch models using 

these precious jewels. 

The result is a truly royal ladies’ watch of impressive beauty, 

captivating in its refined radiance and attracting universal attention. 

In no small part due to the 666 precious stones, for which the 

designers at Carl F. Bucherer exclusively used jewels of the very 

finest quality, meeting the highest standards of the traditional 

art of jewelry making. 

For “noblesse oblige”. 

100

ALACRIA Royal 



Case 18 K white gold, domed sapphire crystal, 



108 

109 

110 

00.10702.02.90.23 

Case 34 top-quality rubies 32 /24 2.4 ct, 


Dial 94 top-quality rubies 32 /24, 

92 diamonds FC TW vvs total 1.2 ct 

Bracelet 18 K white gold, 210 top-quality 

rubies 32 /24 5.0 ct, 



00.10702.02.90.24 

Case 34 top-quality blue sapphires 32 /24 2.4 ct, 


Dial 94 top-quality blue sapphires 32 /24, 



blue sapphires 32 /24 5.0 ct, 



00.10702.02.90.26 

Case 34 top-quality emeralds 32 /24 1.7 ct, 


Dial 94 top-quality emeralds 32 /24, 



emeralds 32 /24 3,5 ct, 



101

Alacria Diva & Alacria. 

A tribute to all that is feminine. 

There is something divine about every woman. This was well known 

to Goethe, who was enchanted by women, over and over again, 

with their sensual radiance and natural grace. This divine element 

has also inspired Carl F. Bucherer to create the Alacria Diva and 

the Alacria – a jewelry watch symbolizing our drive for the highest 

perfection. 

With its rectangular form and its convex case edges, this is a beautifully 

formed tribute to “eternal femininity”. 

Created from the conviction that true beauty is a lasting and timeless 

value. 

102

103

ALACRIA Diva 



Case stainless steel or 18 K yellow gold, 

domed sapphire crystal, 



111 

112 

113 

00.10705.08.36.01 

Strap galuchat skin, 


00.10705.08.36.21 



00.10705.08.15.31 




104

114 

115 

116 

00.10705.08.16.11 




00.10705.01.21.11 


Strap water snake and lizard skin, 

18 K yellow gold pin lock folding clasp 

00.10705.01.21.12 



18 K yellow gold pin lock folding clasp 

105

ALACRIA 



Case domed sapphire crystal, 



117 

118 

119 

00.10701.08.36.11 

Case stainless steel, 


Strap galuchat skin, 


00.10701.08.15.31 





00.10701.02.71.12 

Case 18 K white gold, 


Dial mother-of-pearl 


18 K white gold pin lock 

folding clasp 

106

120 

121 

122 

00.10701.01.71.11 

Case 18 K yellow gold, 



Strap alligator leather, 

18 K yellow gold pin lock 

folding clasp 

00.10701.01.71.12 






folding clasp 

00.10701.01.71.32 




Bracelet 18 K yellow gold, 

18 K yellow gold folding clasp 

107

ALACRIA 



Case domed sapphire crystal, 



123 

124 

125 

00.10703.08.16.21 




00.10703.08.15.11 





00.10703.08.16.31 





108

126 

127 

128 

00.10703.02.71.12 

Case 18 K white gold, 




18 K white gold pin lock 

folding clasp 

00.10703.01.71.11 






folding clasp 

00.10703.01.71.31 




Bracelet 18 K yellow gold, 

18 K yellow gold folding clasp 

109

Adamavi. 

Holding on to the tried 

and tested. 

Carl F. Bucherer benefits from being an independent watch brand. 

Providing continuity to the high quality brand, the success of which 

is based on a valuable store of experience in the field of mechanical 

watchmaking and the art of jewelry. Although Carl F. Bucherer 

stands for dynamic innovative strength and mechanical innovation, 

it is nevertheless extremely important to the brand that tried and 

tested technologies and design elements should be carried through 

into the future. 

The concept of keeping alive the tried and tested values of the past 

is expressed in the Adamavi watch family. Translated from the 

Latin, Adamavi means “to fall in love with something” or “to take 

pleasure in something”. 

All models in this range are characterized by pure timeless elegance 

and mechanical reliability, making them more than just timepieces. 

As true companions whose appearance will outlast the short-lived 

trends of the present time, they provide the wearer with reliability 

and continuity. 

Values that are predestined please. 

110

111

ADAMAVI 



Case 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, 



129 

130 

131 

00.10308.03.16.01 



00.10308.03.16.11 

Case 44 diamonds FC W si 0.35 ct 



00.10310.03.93.11 

Case 44 diamonds FC W si 0.35 ct, 

height 5.75 mm 

Dial 231 diamonds FC TW vvs 



112

Movement automatic, diameter 26.2 mm, height 3.6 mm, 21 jewels, 


Functions date, hour, minute 

Case 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, caseback with sapphire crystal, 



132 

133 

134 

00.10307.03.13.01 



00.10307.03.16.01 



00.10309.03.93.31 

Case 46 diamonds FC W si 0.52 ct, 

height 8.0 mm 

Dial 345 diamonds FC TW vvs 



113

ADAMAVI 

Movement hand-wound, diameter 26 mm, height 4.5 mm, 21 jewels, 


Functions hour, minute, small seconds 

Case 18 K rose gold, 



135 

136 

137 

00.10305.02.26.01 

Case 18 K white gold 


18 K white gold pin buckle 

00.10306.03.26.01 

Case diameter 27 mm, height 6 mm 



00.10305.03.26.01 



114

The Carl F. Bucherer boutiques present 

the extensive watch collection 

of the Lucerne watch manufacture. 

115

Glossary 

Annual calendar 

The annual calendar eliminates the problem confronting owners of wristwatches 

at the end of a month with 30 days. Standard, simple calendar mechanisms 

always switch from the 30 th to the 31 st , which means the owner has to advance 

the calendar manually to the 1 st of the following month. At the end of short 

months (such as April), however, the more complex mechanism found in an 

annual calendar switches directly from the 30 th to the 1 st . Only once a year, at 

the end of February, does the date require a simple manipulation to switch 

it to March 1 st . 

Ceramics 

Ceramic components are extremely hardwearing and resistant to heat. The 

material is very hard and brittle but not malleable. Apart from this, ceramics 

are chemically very stable. 

ChronoGrade 

The ChronoGrade trademark is used by Carl F. Bucherer to describe a multifunctional 

mechanical chronograph with the revolutionary retrograde hours 

counter. 

Chronograph 

Additional function that enable the measurement of time intervals up to 12 hours. 

Most watches feature a central stop hand that can be started, stopped and 

reset to zero by pressing the push-piece. This hand makes one revolution 

per minute. The standard balance wheel frequency of 28 800 vibrations/hour 

enables a maximum measuring accuracy of 1 / 8 

th 

of a second. The elapsed 

minutes and often hours are shown on additional subdials. The third subdial 

generally displays the dragging small seconds. 

Chronometer 

A chronometer is a high-precision watch whose movement has been tested 

by the Swiss Chronometer Institute (COSC) for a period of 15 days in five positions 

and at three different temperatures. The movement must maintain the 

necessary accuracy throughout the entire test period. Every chronometer 

is unique because it has its own individual number engraved on the movement 

and comes with a certificate that shows the results achieved. 

COSC 

Abbreviation of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, Switzerland’s 

official chronometer testing institute. The COSC is a government-run nonprofit 

organization whose job is to put movements submitted by manufacturers 

through a series of exacting tests to establish their accuracy. Every movement 

that reaches the prescribed standards is awarded the much-coveted chronometer 

certificate. The COSC has three testing centers: in Biel, Geneva and Le 

Locle. 

Decorated movements 

Watch movements can be finished in a variety of ways. Common decorations 

include surface treatments such as Geneva stripes or circular graining, chamfered 

and polished edges, and polished and blued screws. Generally speaking, 

Carl F. Bucherer movements are finished to the highest possible standards 

and are a feast for the eyes. 

FourX 

“Four eXternal Materials” stands for four different materials: palladium, ceramic, 

titanium and rubber. 

Full calendar 

A full calendar has displays for the day, date, month and phase of the moon. 

Gold 

Pure 24 K gold is almost never used in the manufacture of watch components 

because it is too soft and difficult to polish. 18 K gold contains 750 /1000 parts by 

weight of pure gold and is alloyed with a total of 250 /1000 parts of copper, palladium, 

silver or other metals. As a result, the gold is harder, takes on an attractive 

sheen and, depending on the proportion of the other elements used, a specific 

color. All our gold cases are examined by the Swiss precious metal control 

center and their quality confirmed with a punched insignia. 

GMT 

The abbreviation for Greenwich Mean Time. The Prime Meridian, the basis 

of the world’s time system, runs through Greenwich, in London. In the watch 

industry, this abbreviation also stands for the display of a second time zone. 

However, there is a multitude of different types of functions of varying complexity. 

The GMT mechanism in our CFB 1901 caliber is one of the more exclusive 

of its kind: because the hours-hand can be advanced or turned back exactly 

one hour at a time using the crown and independently of the rest of the dial 

train. While this is going on, the movement continues to run uninterrupted. 

A 24-hour hand also shows other time zones. These functions, in combination 

with a chronograph, are unique. 

Louisiana alligator leather 

The fine leathers come from animals of the species Alligator mississippiensis, 

which are bred in strictly controlled farms in the US state of Louisiana. The 

most valuable part of the skin is that covering the belly, with its smooth, grained, 

scaly pattern. After a highly complex tanning process, the leather goes through 

60 different stages before emerging as top-quality wristwatch straps. 

Monopusher MonoGraph 

A sophisticated monopusher mechanism for a chronograph movement. 

All functions (start, stop and reset) are activated through a single push-piece. 

116

Monopusher mechanism (Patravi TravelTec) 

Carl F. Bucherer is the first watchmaker in history to have developed the monopusher. 

Each time it is pushed, it moves the 24-hour disk in precise one-hour 

steps forward or backward. One of its more sophisticated features is an integrated 

switch that makes it child’s play to alter the direction in which the disk 

rotates. This complication is registered for patent. 

MonoGraph 

The name used to describe the ladies’ model in the Manero line from Carl F. 

Bucherer. 

Palladium 

A rare, silvery-white transition metal belonging to the platinum group. It was 

discovered in 1803 by William Hyde Wollaston, who named it after the asteroid 

Pallas. 

Perpetual calendar 

In view of the complexity involved, this mechanism is one of the most demanding 

achievements in watchmaking. It will show the date correctly, with no need 

for adjustment until 2100, regardless of whether the month has 28, 29, 30 or 31 

days, taking the irregularities of the leap years into account. According to the 

Gregorian calendar, 2100 will not be a leap year, which means, exceptionally, 

that the movement must be advanced manually on March 1 st 2100. 

Power reserve 

The time for which a watch with a mechanical movement will run until the 

mainspring is completely exhausted. Depending on type, a fully wound movement 

has a power reserve of 40 to 48 hours. A dedicated display shows how 

much power remains. 

Rotor (also known as a winding weight) 

An important component in any automatic movement. The weight, which is 

usually positioned centrally in the movement, rotates in response to the tiniest 

movements of the wearer’s wrist. The rotational movements are transmitted 

through a wheel and pawl system, which winds the mainspring in the barrel. 

A watch with an automatic movement that is worn regularly will never wind 

down. 

Rubber 

An elastic, resilient natural product with insulating properties that comes from 

trees in the tropics. In the watch industry it is used mainly for pushers, crowns 

and straps. 

Retrograde 

Describes a hand that can return to an original position. 

Retrograde hours counter 

A special type of display on the hours counter that has given the Patravi Chrono- 

Grade its name. When the stopwatch is started, the retrograde hours counter 

between 7 and 8 o’clock counts off the number of hours elapsed and moves 

down the semicircular scale. After six hours, the hours counter moves back 

instantaneously to the starting position and starts counting the hours all over 

again. 

Sapphire crystal 

Synthetic sapphire crystal is the hardest type of glass used in watchmaking. 

It is almost as hard as diamond. In order to optimize readability and the optical 

impact of the dial, selected crystals from Carl F. Bucherer have an anti-reflective 

coating on both sides. These are produced by vapor-coating the glass in a 

vacuum with several whisper-thin layers of metal. 

Sectors 

The hand of a display moves evenly within a sector, as is the case with a 

conventional power reserve indication. 

Tonneau 

The word “tonneau” comes from the French and means “barrel”. The term has 

established itself in the watchmaking industry and is used to describe a barrelshaped 

case. This form was very popular back in the 1920s. 

T-Graph 

The T-Graph trademark used by Carl F. Bucherer perfectly sums up the character 

of this Patravi: a chronograph movement housed in a barrel-shaped case. 

Titanium 

Is a light, blackish-colored transition metal which is both highly malleable and 

corrosion-resistant. It was discovered in England in 1791 by an amateur chemist 

named William Gregor. 

TravelTec 

The TravelTec trademark speaks for itself: the flagship of the Patravi collection 

is a technically sophisticated timepiece with an unusual time zone function 

that makes it ideal for travelers. 

Vickers 

Is a unit commonly used to express the hardness of materials. By definition, 

hardness is the resistance shown by a material to indentation by a body. This 

type of hardness testing was developed by two engineers, R. Smith and G. 

Sandland, in 1925 and named after Vickers, the aviation company. With a hardness 

of 10 000 Vickers, diamond is the hardest material of them all. 

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70.07.01.450.094 11/2011 

118

Your official Carl F. Bucherer agent 

119

info@carl-f-bucherer.com 

www.carl-f-bucherer.com

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