NAHA20 <strong>Salon</strong> Design finalist Van Michael <strong>Salon</strong> B E A U T Y
Makeup Artistry Brush Basics Esthetic Endeavors Judith Culp As a makeup artist I’ve always been intrigued by brushes, but there are so many out there. Every class I attended the artist had different recommendations. Every distributor has a different recommendation. Each of my friends love different brushes. This leads to major confusion <strong>and</strong> spending a lot of money trying to decide what is right for me. So, for this issue, let’s explore some brush basics. Brushes should be selected with the following considerations: • What are the properties of the product to be applied (liquid, cream, powder.)? • What are the properties of the surface – rough, smooth, dry, moist, oily? • What is your personal technique or style? • What is the desired final effect? Structure There are three parts to every brush — the hair, the ferrule <strong>and</strong> the h<strong>and</strong>le. The hair is the brush part made from natural or synthetic fibers. In larger brushes, the fiber may be squirrel, pony, goat or blends. These brushes include powder, blush, contour <strong>and</strong> large eye. In smaller brushes sable, weasel, kolinsky, capra, badger <strong>and</strong> others are used. The ferrule is the metal part of the brush. It is most often made from brass, copper or aluminum. The h<strong>and</strong>le is the third part <strong>and</strong> it may be made from acrylic, metal or wood. Wood is often preferred for its long term reliability. Short h<strong>and</strong>les are preferred for client use as it allows them to get closer to a mirror to work. Long h<strong>and</strong>les allow the makeup artist to work farther away from the client <strong>and</strong> enhance their ability to see the big picture. It is best if the hairs are fused (glued) rather than stapled for any cosmetic use to avoid the creation of a germ reservoir in the ferrule. Fused bristles are easier to clean. Cost <strong>and</strong> Material Brushes can vary from very inexpensive to highly expensive. The variance in price will depend on if the brushes are machine made or h<strong>and</strong> made, the type of ferrule, the fiber the bristles are made of <strong>and</strong> the h<strong>and</strong>le choice. The same hair fibers are used in both h<strong>and</strong> made <strong>and</strong> machine made brushes. The difference will be how they are placed into the ferrule. Commonly brush kits will be machine made <strong>and</strong> h<strong>and</strong> made brushes will only be sold individually. A kit can be a nice way to start as it is less expensive, but professionals wanting to specialize in makeup artistry will want to add quality h<strong>and</strong>-made brushes as they do a superior job in product application <strong>and</strong> last longer. Synthetic verses Natural Brushes should be selected based on their purpose not on their origin for the best application result. However, synthetics do come in a full range of brushes for the client who wants non-animal sources for all brushes. This comes at a cost however as these brushes are polymer filaments commonly made of taklon or nylon. These brushes have their place <strong>and</strong> definite use, but require more manufacturing. SYNTHETIC — Synthetic fibers vary in price, durability <strong>and</strong> performance. Nylon is a common inexpensive utility brush. The mix of fibers <strong>and</strong> whether they are h<strong>and</strong> or machine made will affect the price <strong>and</strong> life of these brushes. The best of these brushes have a mix of at least 3 diameter filaments of varying thicknesses. The fibers may be white or dyed to reflect animal hair toning or a fun color. Common examples are fan brushes, lip brushes <strong>and</strong> camouflage brushes. These brushes are easy to clean although less soft than natural fibers. Sometimes they are dyed <strong>and</strong> then baked to make the hair softer. They are less prone to damage from detergents <strong>and</strong> solvents. They are excellent for layering makeup or applying cream or camouflage. NYLON OR TAKLON — These synthetic fibers are the preferred fiber for applying cream type cosmetics. Nylon includes nylon, plastic or rubber. They come in a variety of textures, qualities <strong>and</strong> control. Nylon is less expensive than Taklon. Taklon is softer <strong>and</strong> more absorbent. They are excellent for applying cream or camouflage bases, lip color <strong>and</strong> eyeliner. NATURAL — Natural fibers refer to those derived from animal hair across the globe. It also refers to a specific type of brush. Natural fibers include sable, kolinsky, badger, goat, pony, squirrel, ox, camel, hog, mongoose, sabelina, <strong>and</strong> natural bristle. I have compiled a list of several different types of natural fibers <strong>and</strong> what product <strong>and</strong> application they are best known for. You can view this list at www.stylistnewspapers.com. Whatever the brush you are evaluating keep in mind what it is needed for, what type of surface it is for, <strong>and</strong> is there a particular style or finish effect desired. Construction, quality, <strong>and</strong> performance life from your investment are also key to factor in. Judith Culp, a CIDESCO Diplomat has been in the esthetics industry since 1980. A CPCP permanent makeup technician for over 18 years she served a 4-year term as a Director for the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals, two years as their president. She is president of Culp Enterprises Inc. <strong>and</strong> CEO of NW Institute of Esthetics. Judy Culp is available for consulting. For more information visit www.estheticsnw.com. READ IT! SAVE IT! PRINT IT! NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE! View this article <strong>and</strong> more at www.stylistnewspapers.com First Step Footspa & <strong>Salon</strong> Disinfectant Sensuous Solutions’ First Step Footspa & <strong>Salon</strong> Disinfectant Cleaner is an EPA REGISTERED, ONE-STEP HOSPITAL GRADE, Bactericide, Fungicide, <strong>and</strong> Virucide used to disinfect pedicure footspas, nail implements, <strong>and</strong> salon/barber tools. It meets or exceeds all State Board requirements for complete disinfecting of interior footspa surfaces, pipes, jets, screens, <strong>and</strong> pump as it circulates through the entire system. First Step kills 100% of microorganisms tested against non-porous inanimate surfaces when added to the footspa water. Cost Effective Use only 1/2 oz. per gallon of water (compared to others requiring 1 oz.) Pre-Measured Accuracy Disinfectant & Virucide for <strong>Salon</strong> & Barber Tools Client Safety & Satisfaction is Our # 1 Priority! Call (800) 578-1444 or email moreinfo@sensuoussolutions.com www.sensuoussolutions.com LOW COST Insurance Liability Insurance | Property Insurance <strong>Salon</strong> & Shop Owners Barber Shops Beauty <strong>Salon</strong>s Day Spas Tanning <strong>Salon</strong> Nail <strong>Salon</strong>s Beauty Supply Stores Independent Contractors Barbers Cosmetologists Manicurists Massage Therapists Estheticians Electrologists I N S U R A N C E S E R V I C E S “A Division of Beach <strong>and</strong> O’Neill Insurance Associates, Inc.” New Lower Prices Call for a FREE Quote! 1-877-655-0123 Lic #1448058 No Hassle, No Commitment INSTANT FREE QUOTES just go to our website www.ultimateimageinsurance.com TEXAS STYLIST & SALON | OCTOBER <strong>2009</strong> | 13
Change language